UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: daddy long legs on March 15, 2021, 12:54:42 pm
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Recommendations please
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These are nice. I use them on a 25 degree but they'd be okay on steeper walls (I guess that's what they're intended for in general).
https://taylormadeholds.com/collections/mirrored-holds/products/duo-pockets
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(https://i.ibb.co/MkqtKgC/F507-C473-0470-4-A1-B-BB94-73649-F256861.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/0JDkFzW/B6-A03-DCD-987-B-4-E44-A08-B-39-E49-CD864-C3.jpg)
Loving these from Artemis.
Incut inside, unlike my homemade ones.
Theres a two and three finger in respective pictures.
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These are nice. I use them on a 25 degree but they'd be okay on steeper walls (I guess that's what they're intended for in general).
https://taylormadeholds.com/collections/mirrored-holds/products/duo-pockets
Second these. Comfortable while not being overly juggy (for me at least).
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Mmmmm the taylormade ones look super nice. Perfect as it’s comfy 2 finger pockets I’m looking for.
Got some ok resin ones given to me once but wood is so much nicer to train on
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Mmmmm the taylormade ones look super nice. Perfect as it’s comfy 2 finger pockets I’m looking for.
Got some ok resin ones given to me once but wood is so much nicer to train on
I have some resin pockets which i've shoved bits of card and stuff into to make them shallower and kinder on the skin as they are now slightly less than a pad deep rather than going over the joint. It's a pretty ghetto setup but it works.
I bought 2 of the Taylormade pockets last night on Remus' review in the other thread, so we shall see!
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A poke from us that these are new out http://crusherholds.co.uk/wooden-climbing-holds/crusher-pockets-wood-climbing-holds
#disclaimer - if used in a damp ridden, condensation prone shed it may affect their longevity :thumbsup:
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I like the sausage finger policy :clap2:
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As an alternative to buying pockets, the best way to make them for a board, is to put an edge on the board, and then drill into the board, using the edge as part of the bottom surface of the pocket.
I've found this works really well. Obviously, you can't move the actual pocket, but it's easy to fill them afterwards, adjust for depth, angle etc.
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As an alternative to buying pockets, the best way to make them for a board, is to put an edge on the board, and then drill into the board, using the edge as part of the bottom surface of the pocket.
I've found this works really well. Obviously, you can't move the actual pocket, but it's easy to fill them afterwards, adjust for depth, angle etc.
This is exactly what Mike Watson has done on his board and it works really well.
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As an alternative to buying pockets, the best way to make them for a board, is to put an edge on the board, and then drill into the board, using the edge as part of the bottom surface of the pocket.
I've found this works really well. Obviously, you can't move the actual pocket, but it's easy to fill them afterwards, adjust for depth, angle etc.
This sound like a great option! Would love to see some pictures if anyone has any?
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Years ago my mate on his board screwed a block to the back of the board and drilled through from the front to make a pockets.
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These are nice. I use them on a 25 degree but they'd be okay on steeper walls (I guess that's what they're intended for in general).
https://taylormadeholds.com/collections/mirrored-holds/products/duo-pockets
Second these. Comfortable while not being overly juggy (for me at least).
I snapped up a pair of these based on this thread. Haven't actually used them yet, but it seems like you actually get 3 holds for the price of 1. They are very pinch-able and you can also use them as either an undercut pocket or a normal pocket.
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I've got my Taylormade pockets. They have a nice profile, are well finished and will be very kind to skin, but they're a bit juggier than I was hoping for, at least in their normal orientation. My board is 42 degrees and I probably wouldn't be able to use them the slopey way round unless I pinch the bottom, which defeats the purpose IMO, but can campus off them the positive way round (I don't have particularly strong fingers either).
I think I will leave one of them as it is for a Hail Mary finishing hold (I think it will be great for this as it won't shred skin and the nature of it being a pocket means a little accuracy is needed too), and run a saw down the back of one to take around 10mm off its depth and hopefully this will make it a bit more 'limit'.
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Yeah the Taylor made's do look very pinchable, which I guess isn't a good thing. Guess it just means you have to exercise a certain amount of self-control.
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Yeah the Taylor made's do look very pinchable, which I guess isn't a good thing. Guess it just means you have to exercise a certain amount of self-control.
I've found that if you use them for front 2 then you can pinch, but I've not noticed myself doing that. Middle 2 is just a drag with no thumb. I've not tried using them as an actual pinch (as I think cls) is saying, but have got one upside down as a slopey starting hold.
I'm a bit shit so they work well for me at 25 degrees and I think I'd struggle using them at 40/45.
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Yeah if you use them upside down you get a bad pocket, a slightly tapered pinch and a juggy undercut pocket.