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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: fried on June 18, 2017, 05:06:53 pm

Title: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: fried on June 18, 2017, 05:06:53 pm
M-fr - Nothing, shoulder tweaky and decided to rest. Missus is away from Friday so I'm hoping for a couple of sessions in the forest.

Oh, and I'm on antibiotics for a gum abcess so no alcohol all week, tough for the first couple of days but feel good now, longest time without since I don't know when. Heineken 0,0% is okish...

Sa - Bois Rond, climbed as well as I've done in a long time and still managed to not get up anything. Stinking hot though. Usual circuit of problems failed but all feel doable. Need a spot on Meilleur des mondes.

Su - Early to Rocher Guichot...first problem was excellent....then downhill. went back to doing easy stuff in the heat. Must be the toughest graded place in the forest.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: shark on June 18, 2017, 10:14:12 pm
Merci fried

11.3-4

M. Seems a long time ago. Malham with Steve, Rab, Zips and Basher in 2 cars meeting Chris Gore there. What a line up. Mescalito wet. Worked Raindogs. 2 redpoint attempts falling at windmill move. One more dogging go

T. Depot Manc. Evening. Farted around on the circuit wall. Bit of AeroCap and then worked the desperate purple 7b which has an Oak like section which is useful

W.

T. Summoned back to Manc which scuppered training plans

F. Noon. Foundry. Quiet. Plattsy and Dawid there. Not bouldered here for months. Level 2's gone from nails to piss leaving a big gap above.  :rtfm: Also moonboard and new top rope setup on main wall had disappeared. Worked a black and pink spotty on the steep section. Fingers felt strong. PM Physio

S. Fingerboard. Evening. 5x5x5 Half crimps + DB Finger rolls + Austrian deadlifts + DB gaston presses + 3 wide pullups

S. Lunch. Short sess on Wave. More time on black and pink spotty and also green and black spotty to its left. 31 degrees outside

Decent training week. Not especially psyched for outside. Reversed upward weight trend of previous week. Dan C reckons I can "easily" get down to10stone  :no:
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Nibile on June 19, 2017, 05:49:14 am
I would like to know what the fuck is doing Steve at Malham now. Maybe potter around doing laps on 9a's without doing his laces, probably.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: shark on June 19, 2017, 07:00:18 am
I would like to know what the fuck is doing Steve at Malham now. Maybe potter around doing laps on 9a's without doing his laces, probably.

Mainly up for photos. Forgot to mention that I got a 9a belay tick in  ;D
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: user deactivated on June 19, 2017, 07:43:03 am


Decent training week. Not especially psyched for outside. Reversed upward weight trend of previous week. Dan C reckons I can "easily" get down to10stone  :no:

Haha, I take back the 'easily' bit. Cutting out booze cake a chips for a month before the project season seems like a good option for anyone, do people actually do this often apart from wads?
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: T_B on June 19, 2017, 09:07:56 am
M - Lunch: Wave - knackered.
T - Autobelays 3 x WU, 2 x pink 7a, 5 or 6 x yellow 7b. Warm downs
W - Lunch run.
T - BWD. Breezy, great conditions. Warmed up on Jerry's trav, then did the reverse which I've not done before. Hadn't intended to, in fact I was supposed to be going traddin but mate cancelled. Anyway, ended up trying my nemesis, Paint it black. Best sess ever on it, felt v close. Sequence sorted.
F - AM ran to work
S -
S - Great Lakes fell race - bowfell - esk pike - great end - scafell - scafell pike - slight side - blisco. 2000m of ascent in 21k. Lived up to its rep. Stunning weather!

Not much arm-based climbing this week.
 
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: nai on June 19, 2017, 09:23:34 am


Decent training week. Not especially psyched for outside. Reversed upward weight trend of previous week. Dan C reckons I can "easily" get down to10stone  :no:

Haha, I take back the 'easily' bit. Cutting out booze cake a chips for a month before the project season seems like a good option for anyone, do people actually do this often apart from wads?

Yes, I'm sure many people do and that Simon remembers his best efforts came after his Squamish visit when he lost a few kg (plus having done lots of trad mileage so probably flowing a lot better, but let's brush over that).  The timing's quite crucial for me though, I don't try to lose weight pre season but rather after the first few attempts on routes.  Once you've got a hook into a route the motivation to abstain is much easier.


 
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: nai on June 19, 2017, 09:30:27 am
M
Tor - partner bailed while I was en route. Turned up and was kindly invited to make up a 3, thanks Chris and Mark  :wave:
2 goes up the Prow, found it freaky as expected and all very time consuming, was very concious of eating into their session so sacked both attempts at L2

T
2x Prow to L2 again.
Bit more comfortable today, lower wall soaking but managed P1 clean from the break (including better beta for the hand swap so a tiny bit easier now). Relearned the traverse and tufa moves and got it sussed from the mid height jug to the Body Machine belay.
An awful lot of effort over two days to learn 12 moves of "no real difficulty"

W nowt

Th nowt

F Garage.  Forecast was wrong - too bright, too warm, no breeze, smeggy connies. Tried Ozone Bozone,  felt really hard, long time  since I've tried a short route like this, came as a bit of a shock to do some hard climbing.  Hopefully feel easier in better connies, though.

S - nowt (50th birthday party)
S - nowt (50th birthday)
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Duma on June 19, 2017, 09:37:10 am
Goals:
8A, 8b
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: OK.
Sleep: OK.
70kg.

M: nothing, tired. (~7.5hrs, 0dk)
T: TCA, mothership mostly, did repeat one of the oranges fairly easily though which was nice. Flashed long orange up the middle, prob 7A+ or so? (7hrs, 0dk)
W: nothing, should have gone to wall but it was sunny in the garden and there was cider... (~7hrs, 3dk)
T: nothing. very fancy meal for big birthday. (~7hrs, 6dk)
F: nothing, get daughter after work. (~8hrs, 2dk)
S: Drive to Gower, beach and sea with daughter, bbq eve (~6hrs, 2dk)
S: breakfast in the van, most of day in the surf with daughter, hot drive home, then cider in the sun in the pub. perfect fathers day. (~6.5hrs, 2dk)

Fun week, not enough climbing though, mildly concerned as off to SA on fri and will struggle to get even 2 sessions this week.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: andy_e on June 19, 2017, 10:12:28 am
Just call it taper and make out like you've planned it.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: duncan on June 19, 2017, 11:02:00 am
STG - Rehab. finger. 7b RP.
MTG - E5 by end of August.
LTG - 7b+RP, LH&F tbc.
 
M - Somerset. High winds, rain.
T - Flying visit to Anstey’s. Wet. Briefly fondled holds of ‘Empire..’.
W - Shoulder stuff. Mini fingerboard session.
T -
F - Westway: routes to 6b+. Anaerobic capacity.
S -
S - Westway: routes to 6b+. Anaerobic capacity.
M - Shoulder stuff.
T - Mile End: bouldering to ~V3.
W -
T - Vauxwall: bouldering multiple ~V3/4.
F -
S - Cheddar with bridbeast. Warmed up. Worked Get That Man briefly. Went for the redpoint but fluffed the last move on the final overhang. Wasn't feeling great mentally and a moment of hesitation was all it took. Rested at the hands-off but still couldn't do it.
S - Battered.
 
In the face of Kensington and Chelsea incompetence (https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2017/jun/18/council-leader-nick-paget-brown-grenfell-tower-response) my usual climbing wall The Westway is doing amazing work as a refugee centre. I've sampled the alternatives this week. I enjoyed Mile End after a long absence, the secret garden is a welcome addition, it’s not too steamy in summer, and I liked the featured bit. Vauxwall is more in the modern style but with some good setting I thought. We should really all support The Westway once they open again.
 
Cheddar was a good choice in the scorching weather though we could have done without the biker’s meet. I started climbing independently here (on Wind Rock, a poorly protected slab of course) 40 years ago. It's got warmer, better protected, and a lot noisier since then.
 
Drove past Grenfell tower on the way, soot-black and malevolent, amidst the shiny new towers and comfortable terraces of west London. A highly visible monument to how we choose to house our essential cheap labour and to the real meanings of 'value engineering' and ‘slashing red-tape’. Also had some distressing personal news on the journey. All in all wasn't in the best mood for trying harder things,
 
I'll be celebrating my best buddy’s 40th this Friday. Likely venue Kilnsey. This will be my first visit, it looks nails and my anti-style, so will have an easier week beforehand. I'd love to do Central Wall but Diedre and Directissima seem more realistic. Any other trad. to E4, sport to 7a recommendations?
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Fiend on June 19, 2017, 11:33:34 am
Highway 365 F6c+ is good and quite reasonable if burly.

Dodger Direct E3 5c is good, a bit "inland limestone" but quite enjoyable for all that.

I failed on some F7a there, maybe Alternative Optional Extra, which has gone up to F7a+


Get That Man is pretty hard for the grade I thought. Full on sketchfest getting around the crux bulge. When you head back, Shakin Like A Leaf is much more reasonable and really nice.



Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: moose on June 19, 2017, 12:14:56 pm
Haha, I take back the 'easily' bit. Cutting out booze cake a chips for a month before the project season seems like a good option for anyone, do people actually do this often apart from wads?
Yes, I'm sure many people do and that Simon remembers his best efforts came after his Squamish visit when he lost a few kg (plus having done lots of trad mileage so probably flowing a lot better, but let's brush over that).  The timing's quite crucial for me though, I don't try to lose weight pre season but rather after the first few attempts on routes.  Once you've got a hook into a route the motivation to abstain is much easier.

I'm currently booze-free (8 nights so far, not that I'm counting) until I tick Grooved Arete, similarly to you nai, it's only being near(ish) to success can motivate me to take such steps.  A few near-miss RPs have brought home the realisation that I need both my form and conditions to exactly coincide, and I would hate to think I had wasted a fleeting, unexpected opportunity by being at all impaired.

That said, weight is not the issue, quitting booze does not seem have that effect on me.  I went tee-total for 7 weeks last year and did not get any lighter - despite booze likely representing around 20% of my calorific intake! Which leads me to suspect my weight is already at a minimum.   For me the giving up of drink is more to ensure I do not waste future RPs by being hungover, to hopefully help recovery from all my niggles, and to provide a bit of motivation to get the project bagged (I have a very pricey whisky my brother bought me locked in a cabinet at work, waiting).
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: 36chambers on June 19, 2017, 12:42:31 pm
M:
T: Indoors. First board session in months and ridiculously warm. Could barely do my old warm ups and was firing off every other go.
W:
T: Cliff. Had my annual play on Sewer Rat Connection 7B+ and I think I've finally figured it out. Just need to go back when the wind isn't all up in my grill.
F:
S: Reunion with old friends. Drinking Johnnie Walker Blue Label out of plastic cups because we're reckless af.
S: Hangover day at Craig y Longridge. Surprisingly tolerable considering how warm it was. First time climbing there and I'm very keen to go back. 

After ~6 months of being alright, my tweaky LH ring finger has started complaining again. Genuinely thought I was officially in the green :/
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: csl on June 19, 2017, 12:54:38 pm
Been AWOL for a while as work a bit mental

STG - June

7B
Do 2 board projects. 1/2

MTG - september

7C
cassin on piz badile/comici on cima grande

LTG - this time next year

not sure

Monday

Arch B1 - Board

Finally did a project i'd been trying for about 2.5 months

Tuesday

nothing

Wednesday

Arch Biscuit

Various bouldering including some White + Reds. Trying a few greens but no success

Thursday

nothing

Friday

Arch B1

Puntering around

Saturday

nothing

Sunday

Arch Biscuit

Various including trying some greens but no success. Quick go on the 50º board, hard.
Did a load of mobility tests - which revealed some imbalances. Not as bad as expected.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: psborland on June 19, 2017, 12:57:32 pm
M. Power : limit Bouldering at BBC sent one and made good progress on two v6's no real progress on v7 project.

T. none

w. Redpoint Bham daytime session lots of routes 6b-6c interspersed with two rounds on the autobelays of 3x6b. Good aerobic session.

Th. none' very tired.

F. Cheedale 2Tier . Tried 'Daylight Robbery' . Nice climbing and felt OK (easier than Countdown) except for massive run-out finish. Hopefully redpoint next time.

Sa. Tired couldn't motivate for planned core session.

Su. Father's day meant no climbing but managed a strength session once kids lost interest in me :) Some progress on front three and four finger half crimp. No progress on open hand. Dead lifts to 105Kg.

A good week, but haven't done any specific core work.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Nibile on June 19, 2017, 02:26:18 pm


Decent training week. Not especially psyched for outside. Reversed upward weight trend of previous week. Dan C reckons I can "easily" get down to10stone  :no:

Haha, I take back the 'easily' bit. Cutting out booze cake a chips for a month before the project season seems like a good option for anyone, do people actually do this often apart from wads?
Nope, never done it, will never do it.
Progressing in terms of both climbing grades and pure performance while staying at same weight is crucial for me. In the last two years and a half I've put on two kilos, but I've improved on every aspect of my training and I have even climbed something on rock.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Nibile on June 19, 2017, 02:28:11 pm
Power Club

Mon - light bag. Extremely tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - one arm hangs, BM back 3. Clean and press x 5 41 kg + max time one arm hang. Brilliant brilliant session again.
Thu - rest.
Fri - clean and press dead stop 5". 5 x 4 41 kg, 5 x 1 46 kg.
Sat - rest.
Sun - deadlift 5 x 108 + 5 explosive pull ups x 4. Legs were quite tired even before starting, should have done something else. The pull ups were good though.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: tomtom on June 19, 2017, 09:19:36 pm
Hard to think about POWER CLUB when its 30 degrees and training/climbing seems totally alien to my present desires to eat ice cream and paddle my feet in a nice cool mountain stream... anyway, needs must etc..

ALL week I was in the N.Lakes (off Ullswater) with MrsTT and TTjnr. A good week. My fitnessdevice (tm) tells me I burnt nearly as many calories as found in a large Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding - and I walked 75km. A chunk of that was wearing a 11kg weight belt (TTjnr).

We: Carrock. YEEEEEEESSSS. I love Carrock. I don't know why as it hurts, its hard and I always get spanked. But I love it. Warmed up on Mushroom - headed to Boardman. Fuck those 7's on the side are (a) hard (b) hard to figure out and (c) have not obvious top outs. Worked out the moves on the one in the middle (big throw) that I managed to stick eventually - then couldnt do the V1/5+ topout/lip move. Tried a load of other ways including going left to the thin crack (that was quite a good problem in itself) but ran out of skin/strength and it was probably illegal anyway *rules* etc..

Fri: Carrock. I'd had two days of working out ways of lipping out (new terminology eh!) from my mental image of the boulder. I ran back up the hill and failed. Lots. Bugger shit toss wank fuckety fuck. Stuck hinged on the lip, foot under by bum, trying to rock over - not trusting anything, no spotter, a waaaafer thin pad. Piss. Pissety piss piss piss. Went and tried fast cars and campervans that I nearly did last time. Nowhere near this time - jstu couldnt get my heel/balance right (thin pad and bumpy landing didnt help). Paced around - got angry. Chilled out. Tried the 7 on the front again and couldnt do the first move now. Looked at the one on the RH side (have holds snapped on this boulder - and on the arete?) just couldnt see how it would be done at 7A. Gave up and went back. Left my sunglasses there  - had to go back and get them.

Su: I woke at 5am. Mrs and Baby fast asleep. I SHOULD have snuck out (as they didnt wake until 8:30!) and had a sneaky morning session. By the time they were up and I had been given fathers day permission it was already in the low 20's. The problems would all be in direct sun.. no point. Packed up. Went home.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Wood FT on June 19, 2017, 10:42:16 pm
Checking back in as means of motivation while down in Devon

Stg: Leather Whip Mick, 8a
Mtg: E5 os, Cider Soak
Ltg: 8b

Mon - Torbyran, 3 x Boogie on Barney 6c+ and decent onsight go on Little White Lie 7b
Tue - Ansteys, Tried to flash Empire 7b having saved it since we moved down here, slipped at bolt 2 then went to the top, very annoying but serves me right for being too precious. All was not lost as I climbed Avenged 7c+, wonderful climbing and not too bad if you know the crux and have a reliable sequence. 3* star climbing night, brilliant.
Wed -
Thu - Ansteys, Put clips in Leather Whip Mick 8a, sorted start and finish and got pysched, good lob potential up top. Attempted to mop up the Empire redpoint but ended up taking 3 goes, humble pie for dinner.
Fri -
Sat - Ansteys, timed it badly and got cooked, walked girlfriend through Empire crux, she did not get on with heel/toe beta unfortunately so will have a much harder sequence on her plate. Headed down to LQP for DWS for tide too low, scoped out Blue Planet 7b+ which is very tall  :o, keen to get back with bigger crew and bottle. The big slabs down there look very impressive.
Sun -

I'm just a tad focused on Empire wall at the moment but can't get enough of it, very basic fingerboarding and pull ups seems to be paying off as I feel on good form. Have had a few tie ins on Cider Soak but it feels too powerful in my current state, I would need to do some bouldering. Might be back in North come September so should really take advantage of the local dws and sea cliffs while I still can.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: user deactivated on June 19, 2017, 10:52:15 pm
20% of calories via booze seems a fair amount moose! some weight loss might make a bigger difference for routes for some of us, huh? can see why it might not help or even hinder powerful short climbing or even max hangs

Mon-

Tue- depot, boulder problem reps and endurance after. Bumped into shark ✊️ And suggested he could lose 1.5 stone easily, on reflection....

Weds - endurance laps

Thurs-

Friday met Nai at stoney  ✊️- bit hot and greasy. Tried ozone. Had a redpoint and fell of a rookie error at the end of the Route, was actually trashed.

Off to scotland tradding next weekend

Thank god!
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Wood FT on June 19, 2017, 10:54:40 pm

I'll be celebrating my best buddy’s 40th this Friday. Likely venue Kilnsey. This will be my first visit, it looks nails and my anti-style, so will have an easier week beforehand. I'd love to do Central Wall but Diedre and Directissima seem more realistic. Any other trad. to E4, sport to 7a recommendations?

It's not great at 7a IMO, the continuation to Directissma I remember for it's exposure, good route
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=122561

Hardy Annual 7a+ is a bit scrappy down low but the groove leaves you in a great position

If you're not shy of vertical crimping and it's free I would say have a go on WYSIWYG 7b, fantastic techy climbing with a rather cheddar-esque finish on sidepulls. It has several extensions so might be tricky if lots of people about, but the clips would be in so swings and roundabouts.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: TobyD on June 19, 2017, 11:35:13 pm

I'll be celebrating my best buddy’s 40th this Friday. Likely venue Kilnsey. This will be my first visit, it looks nails and my anti-style, so will have an easier week beforehand. I'd love to do Central Wall but Diedre and Directissima seem more realistic. Any other trad. to E4, sport to 7a recommendations?

It's not great at 7a IMO,

as Guy says not great at 7a, though directissima (to the ledge) is a good 6c. I'd highly recommend just getting on central wall if thats what you want to do. Its a great route, and if you don't try it you definitely won't do it. Its safe, punchy crux quite low, and moderately pumpy wall after that, a bit like a battleship back cliff 6b+/c?? But much better rock, obviously!
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: TobyD on June 19, 2017, 11:43:07 pm
Monday turbo 20 minute; wave
Tuesday turbo 20 minute; wave
Wednesday yoga; bike 63km
Thursday turbo 20 minute; wave
Friday turbo 20 minute; 2nd 4 routes at stanage; wave
Saturday turbo 20 minute; high neb, 5 routes, 3 led.
Sunday yoga; bike circa 70-80km, strava failure halfway.

Pretty good week, stronger on the wave, started leading again (1 vs, and 2 hvs including the blurter which is amazing). Perhaps most difficult longest ride so far this year (hopefully half century) on the hottest day so far... I need to bother to put a second bottle cage on, except if i do it'll be freezing for six months. Just faced foundry for repeaters in the heat, phew.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: moose on June 20, 2017, 07:47:10 am
20% of calories via booze seems a fair amount moose! some weight loss might make a bigger difference for routes for some of us, huh? can see why it might not help or even hinder powerful short climbing or even max hangs

Calories from alcohol add up in an insidious way.  A couple of double whiskies is around 400 calories (same as 2/3 bottle wine) - and I reckon my measures are on the highly generous side, especially on a weekend, or after a particularly hard day at work!   My overall intake from food is usually around 1500 calories (and that includes a decent allowance for random snacking).  So, booze calories is around 20% of total.  I think my body-weight long-since reached a set-point that is close to its minimum, and any reasonable reduction in calories has little effect on it.  Likewise, when I have had periods of eating a lot - weight is very slow to change and any short-term increases eventually revert.

That said, if your body weight has a sensitive relationship with calorie intake, I can see cutting out booze having a profound effect, particularly in the short term.  Just be aware that that cutting out alcohol is not the pancea that is often bandied around (mainly, I suspect, by preachy types who barely drink anyway!): last year, after 7 weeks of abstinance, I still felt like I was hungover every morning, still slept badly, and still weighed the same!  That said, it seems reasonable to try at least once for a RP goal, if only because good conditions days in summer are too rare to compromise with a hangover! 
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: abarro81 on June 20, 2017, 08:52:22 am
can see why it might not help or even hinder powerful short climbing or even max hangs

Last year I was the lightest ever and bouldering by far my best ever... so I'd disagree  (though there was the conflating factor of being on a full time trip for an extended period too).

For those above saying that you should only start to diet when close to success - that only works if you're only losing a small amount of weight. If you just want to drop a few lbs then that's fine, but if you fluctuate quite largely (e.g. my light mode is now about 1.5 stone lower than my heavy mode) then that won't work as it takes too long to lose that weight without digging yourself into a giant hole. Plus, when I'm close to a route is when I don't want to be tired and hungry from dieting.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Yossarian on June 20, 2017, 02:12:28 pm
can see why it might not help or even hinder powerful short climbing or even max hangs

Last year I was the lightest ever and bouldering by far my best ever... so I'd disagree  (though there was the conflating factor of being on a full time trip for an extended period too).

For those above saying that you should only start to diet when close to success - that only works if you're only losing a small amount of weight. If you just want to drop a few lbs then that's fine, but if you fluctuate quite largely (e.g. my light mode is now about 1.5 stone lower than my heavy mode) then that won't work as it takes too long to lose that weight without digging yourself into a giant hole. Plus, when I'm close to a route is when I don't want to be tired and hungry from dieting.

Do you mind sharing the details?

I'm 6ft3 and getting down to 80kg is what I'm aiming for, but the nearer to 90 I get, the harder it seems to become.

Moose - I generally drink far too much. When I gave up completely earlier this year (3 - 4 months or so) I could close my eyes at 10pm and open them at 7am. And basically all the weight I've lost this year - 17kg ish - was done in that period. Whenever i drink now, I wake up at 3am and it requires major concentration on nothing at all to get back to sleep.

Ever since, I lose weight during the week, and then put it back every weekend (with a few boozy treats). I am absolutely convinced that if I'd pushed on longer with the abstainence I could've got down to a much lower weight that I could then bounce above and below depending on the ratio of exercise to gin consumption.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: T_B on June 20, 2017, 02:18:04 pm
can see why it might not help or even hinder powerful short climbing or even max hangs

Last year I was the lightest ever and bouldering by far my best ever... so I'd disagree  (though there was the conflating factor of being on a full time trip for an extended period too).

For those above saying that you should only start to diet when close to success - that only works if you're only losing a small amount of weight. If you just want to drop a few lbs then that's fine, but if you fluctuate quite largely (e.g. my light mode is now about 1.5 stone lower than my heavy mode) then that won't work as it takes too long to lose that weight without digging yourself into a giant hole. Plus, when I'm close to a route is when I don't want to be tired and hungry from dieting.

Do you mind sharing the details?

I'm 6ft3 and getting down to 80kg is what I'm aiming for, but the nearer to 90 I get, the harder it seems to become.


I know, when I hit 40 I really started to find it hard keeping the weight off. Must be desperate at your age.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: T_B on June 20, 2017, 02:23:13 pm
Seriously though, I suspect Alex applies the same mindset to losing weight as he does to training stamina or whatever. He works hard at it consistently. Although losing 10Kg (as he suggests above) cannot be healthy or sustainable, or have a positive effect on your libido.

If you want to lose weight, eat fewer carbs or do more exercise. There's no magic formula.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Yossarian on June 20, 2017, 02:42:21 pm
can see why it might not help or even hinder powerful short climbing or even max hangs

Last year I was the lightest ever and bouldering by far my best ever... so I'd disagree  (though there was the conflating factor of being on a full time trip for an extended period too).

For those above saying that you should only start to diet when close to success - that only works if you're only losing a small amount of weight. If you just want to drop a few lbs then that's fine, but if you fluctuate quite largely (e.g. my light mode is now about 1.5 stone lower than my heavy mode) then that won't work as it takes too long to lose that weight without digging yourself into a giant hole. Plus, when I'm close to a route is when I don't want to be tired and hungry from dieting.

Do you mind sharing the details?

I'm 6ft3 and getting down to 80kg is what I'm aiming for, but the nearer to 90 I get, the harder it seems to become.


I know, when I hit 40 I really started to find it hard keeping the weight off. Must be desperate at your age.

Yes. I thought long and hard about typing that k and that g, but what with this interminable heat I just couldn't be fucked.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: abarro81 on June 20, 2017, 03:24:32 pm
What details are you after?
Kinda what Tom said, although I don't necessarily find doing more exercise helps as much as the being hungry and eating less part. E.g. If I come home from work on a rest day and want to go for a run I'll eat more to get through it and then have energy to stretch or whatever, so I doubt it actually makes me run any more of a deficit than just lying on the sofa and not eating.
My default dieting tactic is "eat healthy, be hungry, go to bed a bit hungry". Works pretty well as a general principle. Obviously there's other stuff too but pretty standard e.g.Timing: diet harder on rest days and not immediately before/during/after climbing. In general, sack off high-calorie density food as much as possible and replace it with veg/lean meat. Don't drink (I don't drink anyway really so that doesn't change much between dieting or not) etc etc...

When I was 18 I was about 12.5 stone, but trying to get bigger/get muscles. My 'heavy' weight since then is a bit over 12st, but that's self imposed - if I see myself get to that kind of weight I reign it in. From when I got more obsessed and started weighting myself (maybe 21ish?) I had a long period where I thought of fighting weight as being 11st 4lbs to 11st5. A few years ago that dropped a bit to more like 11st2-11st3, just as a function of realising I could get to that weight without it being debilitating. Then last year I went away ~11st3 and didn't weight myself for a few months in Australia. When I did weight myself I was down at ~10st12, which I never thought I could get to. Interestingly I thought I was going to be much heavier than that - I think getting to that weight was mostly done inadvertently as I'd invariably run out of food and spend the afternoon cold and hungry. For me living and sleeping outside in the cold rinses through calories like nothing else. Doing nothing but climbing and resting helps too, dieting at work sucks and training after work it's much harder to get timing right - if I diet really hard during the day I can't 'fix' that by suddenly eating before a session, I might still feel tired, whereas eating/climbing in the morning and then dieting in the afternoon/evening feels a lot easier to me. That said, on my previous mega-trip I never got light like that. Anyway, somehow (possibly partly related to experimenting with fat adapted?) I held that weight for the next few months and was climbing really well. Gradually put it back on in America and then when I came home.

I think part of the reason I got light when away is actually that I wasn't weighing myself - instead of seeing that I was light and indulging I just assumed I was fat and shouldn't eat that cake. My new tactic will thus be to weight myself much more infrequently when dieting e.g. weight myself everyday for a week (to get a realistic average) but only do that every 4-6 weeks maybe.

Whether I can get back down to <11st whilst dieting at home is something I'll have to tell you in the Autumn!

Warning for those easily influenced to get anorexia: I don't think that staying at fighting weight is sustainable or a good long-term strategy. I've seen plenty of people make gains by getting light, but those who've got really light and then stayed there for years have generally seemed to get sucked into a downward spiral of performance, or at the least stagnation. I prefer to get light for trips/projects/seasons and then get heavy again in the meantime. Train heavy n all that. The exception perhaps being that if I were going away for another long trip I'd maybe try to maintain a light weight for that period given that I now know I can do it.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Yossarian on June 20, 2017, 03:34:10 pm
That's really interesting, thanks. You're what, 6ft4?

Yeah, the getting used to being a bit hungry has got to be the key.  I think a lot of evening hunger is down to boredom / routine. I never feel as hungry the following morning as I thought I did the previous evening.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: abarro81 on June 20, 2017, 03:41:32 pm
About 6ft 3 I think.
Yeah, getting used to being hungry is key - basically realising that if you don't eat for a while the world wont end! In a concerning way, it feels kind of empowering too... probably not psychologically healthy!
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: jwi on June 20, 2017, 04:46:41 pm

Yeah, the getting used to being a bit hungry has got to be the key.

For sure. As a friend, who find it really easy to add muscle to his already quite impressive frame said: “I panicked real bad the day I realised I'm going to be hungry every day for the rest of my life”
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: user deactivated on June 20, 2017, 06:16:28 pm
Great post Alex, I've always wondered about briefly losing a bit of weight to enable me to climb harder. Say I wanted to lose 1/2 a stone for a few weeks in October  what would be a good time to lose it?
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Doylo on June 20, 2017, 07:35:50 pm
Great post Alex, I've always wondered about briefly losing a bit of weight to enable me to climb harder. Say I wanted to lose 1/2 a stone for a few weeks in October  what would be a good time to lose it?

A month before if you're good  ;)
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: monkoffunk on June 20, 2017, 07:46:54 pm
I've posted about weight loss before and the incredible effects it had on my climbing. In short I lost loads of weight in 2016 and went from struggling to climb 6C and managing two in a week in font, to climbing my first seven 7As in a week on a trip to font a year later.

The addendum to that story is I kinda got off the wagon towards the end of 2016 and over a few months put most of the weight back on. Became an unhealthy cycle of feeling sluggish and crap generally and therefore eating more, culminating in a multi pack mince pie binge over Christmas of fat bastardesque proportions. Clearly unhealthy although not quite to eating disorder territory.

I started 2017 with a trip to Spain, weighing 82.9kg, unfit and unmotivated. By the end of two weeks I had achieved little of note, but I had got back to eating healthy and I'd stopped drinking. I was much happier and fully motivated. Was like flicking a switch back and breaking the cycle. Cutting the alcohol has the biggest effect on my mood of anything. Surprisingly stopping consuming large quantities of a depressant makes me happy.

After getting back from Spain I started training again, kept the booze out (occasional glass red wine) and continued to eat properly. I got down to 72.9kg at the start of June, being around 75kg by April. I'm 182cm so it's not ridiculous.

The weight swing was clearly unhealthy, but mostly because of the implication of all the shit I was eating/drinking in the fat period.

I haven't been primarily targeting weight loss this year, just being healthy and letting it equilibrate. I don't go to bed hungry and it's never unpleasant. I actually never felt more hungry then half way through six mince pies (although 20mins after I'd feel pretty sick). I guess I've basically trained myself to a certain diet rather than 'dieted'. I feel more hungry if I eat breakfast than skip it for example.

Anyway, now I'm hovering around 73-74kg with scope to actually diet and shave down a bit to get to 'fighting weight' for trips, I'm much happier with life in general and climed first 7B last week.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: abarro81 on June 20, 2017, 08:04:12 pm
Great post Alex, I've always wondered about briefly losing a bit of weight to enable me to climb harder. Say I wanted to lose 1/2 a stone for a few weeks in October  what would be a good time to lose it?

I normally work to approx 1 lb per week though it usually goes a bit faster than that at the start
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: monkoffunk on June 20, 2017, 08:08:39 pm
I was pretty spot on then!
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: user deactivated on June 20, 2017, 08:47:14 pm
Nice one, I'll give it a go this august, be interesting to see how it goes.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: dave on June 20, 2017, 10:42:24 pm
Hold the fuck on, Barrows you're saying you're 6'3 and got down to 10st12lb? Jesus.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: tomtom on June 20, 2017, 10:46:00 pm
This year I've pretty much cut out booze - well from avge 20 units a week to 2-3 units a week.

Aside from sleeping better from a weight perspective, I've gently dropped from 11st 6lb to 11st 3lb with no effort whatsoever. Previously, I had to be 'careful' with what I ate - some portion control and avoiding big plates of carbs. Now, I eat pretty much what I want and weight stays off or as above slowly drops. I'm not going crazy - but have unhealthy deserts (and had a mahoosive fish and chips tonight)....
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: tomtom on June 20, 2017, 10:46:43 pm
Hold the fuck on, Barrows you're saying you're 6'3 and got down to 10st12lb? Jesus.

I'm 6'3" and tickled the high 10's earlier this year...
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: moose on June 21, 2017, 08:03:20 am
I've gently dropped from 11st 6lb to 11st 3lb with no effort whatsoever.

I frequently lose almost that amount with no effort whatsoever... my mystical method is called "going to the toilet".

Seriously though, I weigh myself daily, and whilst the weekly average is pretty steady, the daily reading varies wildly within a 2 - 2.5kg band (i.e. around 5lb) - yes, I am frequently, quite literally full of shit.  A 3lb drop, unless that is a proper rolling average, could conceivably be a blip.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: jwi on June 21, 2017, 08:25:55 am
Same for me. My morning weigh varies within a 2 kg band without any apparent logic.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: monkoffunk on June 21, 2017, 08:47:00 am
A lot of it is likely to be varying degrees of water retention. More after a lot of carbs for example.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: abarro81 on June 21, 2017, 08:48:29 am
I'm typically more like +- 1lb or so around an average
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: tomtom on June 21, 2017, 08:56:51 am
Within a 1lb. Weigh myself after the morning piss.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: duncan on June 21, 2017, 09:17:05 am
Thanks for the Kilnsey suggestions.

It would be useful to detatch the weight loss conversation.

I'm frequently 0.5-1kg heavier the day after intense exercise. I sense this might be especially true if I have DOMS. This is predictable and resolves quickly so I now don't bother to weigh myself after a day trip or big bouldering session. Muscle microtrauma? Fluid retention? Some suggest lack of hydration, any actual evidence behind this?
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: T_B on June 21, 2017, 09:23:41 am
Hold the fuck on, Barrows you're saying you're 6'3 and got down to 10st12lb? Jesus.

I'm 6'3" and tickled the high 10's earlier this year...

Depends on your frame though doesn't it? I'm also 6'3 and for the first time in 20 years on Monday morning weighed in at less than 13 stone (it was a cheat though as I was still dehydrated from Sunday). I'm not exactly skinny, but nor am I fat.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: tomtom on June 21, 2017, 09:25:19 am
Hold the fuck on, Barrows you're saying you're 6'3 and got down to 10st12lb? Jesus.

I'm 6'3" and tickled the high 10's earlier this year...

Depends on your frame though doesn't it? I'm also 6'3 and for the first time in 20 years on Monday morning weighed in at less than 13 stone (it was a cheat though as I was still dehydrated from Sunday). I'm not exactly skinny, but nor am I fat.

Absolutely - was just chipping in to wind Dave up a tad ;)
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: psborland on June 21, 2017, 01:01:04 pm
This is starting to make me feel short and fat

.. and hungry
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: dave on June 21, 2017, 01:13:55 pm
Hold the fuck on, Barrows you're saying you're 6'3 and got down to 10st12lb? Jesus.

I'm 6'3" and tickled the high 10's earlier this year...

Depends on your frame though doesn't it? I'm also 6'3 and for the first time in 20 years on Monday morning weighed in at less than 13 stone (it was a cheat though as I was still dehydrated from Sunday). I'm not exactly skinny, but nor am I fat.

Absolutely - was just chipping in to wind Dave up a tad ;)

Scrawny fuckers, I'm 6' 0.5" and depending on the prevailing wind usually anywhere between 12st 2lb and 12st 8lb.

But as they say it takes a heavy hammer to knock in a big nail.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: tomtom on June 21, 2017, 01:34:51 pm
I hope you used that line on Alex Megos ;)
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: moose on June 21, 2017, 08:01:38 pm
 :whistle:
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: Fiend on June 21, 2017, 09:18:07 pm
Tall AND skinny cunts, you are all awful  >:( >:( >:(
Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 381 12th - 18th June 2017
Post by: moose on June 21, 2017, 09:55:50 pm
I've got very dry skin too.....
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