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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: nossood on February 07, 2010, 02:42:09 pm

Title: too dry
Post by: nossood on February 07, 2010, 02:42:09 pm

Last sessions, indoors, I have experienced some really bad friction, It's cold outside and almost no humidity both indoors and outdoors so conditions should be perfect so why are they not? I don't know if it's the holds or the hands that are the problem. My theory is that if the hands are too dry the chalk won't bind to them.

Other experienced something like this and have an explanation or better theory?

Title: Re: too dry
Post by: Will Hunt on February 07, 2010, 02:45:33 pm

Chalk actually decreases friction. Clean, dry hands on clean, dry rock gives you the best friction. Only use chalk when your hands are sweaty or have moisture on them.

Title: Re: too dry
Post by: Jim on February 07, 2010, 03:54:07 pm

spit or get your hand slightly damp, rub them together and blow on them until they are almost dry, they will feel tacky. chalk up, rub your hands together and clap them a few times. chalk up again and you should have much better friction

Title: Re: too dry
Post by: Bernard Jefferies on February 07, 2010, 05:04:01 pm

More lube?

Title: Re: too dry
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 07, 2010, 07:43:51 pm

What Jim said - glassy hands. Take time to warm your skin up a bit.

Title: Re: too dry
Post by: Somebody's Fool on February 07, 2010, 11:52:03 pm

Or wash your car before hitting the boulders.