UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: EdGowSmith on February 01, 2021, 07:07:32 pm
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Around 15 problems up to ~7A on the edge above Blindside Lane (near Dale Dike reservoir).
I expect the majority are new as they needed a good amount of cleaning / gardening, but some of the easier things might have been done before?
I had fun here. Maybe others can too.
A few pictures:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50898326913_cf0cbdb24d_k.jpg)
Call My Agent!, 7A?
Start sitting on the right, follow the lip to top out on the left.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50899156807_352cecac14_k.jpg)
Right to left traverse of the roof, 6C?
The roof has maybe 5 problems in it.
Was planning on putting together a little topo. Any retroclaims welcome before I do.
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Around 15 problems up to ~7A on the edge above Blindside Lane (near Dale Dike reservoir).
I expect the majority are new as they needed a good amount of cleaning / gardening, but some of the easier things might have been done before?
I had fun here. Maybe others can too.
A few pictures:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50898326913_cf0cbdb24d_k.jpg)
Call My Agent!, 7A?
Start sitting on the right, follow the lip to top out on the left.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50899156807_352cecac14_k.jpg)
Right to left traverse of the roof, 6C?
The roof has maybe 5 problems in it.
Was planning on putting together a little topo. Any retroclaims welcome before I do.
Nice one. They look good. Had a look up there recently. Did you do anything on a buttress quite a bit of way along over the wall in your second pic?
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Nice one. They look good. Had a look up there recently. Did you do anything on a buttress quite a bit of way along over the wall in your second pic?
Yeah I did four problems on one buttress with a central crackline, maybe two 6Cs (ish!) and two easier things, then did another thing a bit further along.
No idea if any of them are what you mean!
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This is the crag mentioned previously on UKB as Torr Edge, home of The Hmm Prow E4 6b - FA Johnny Brown.
What were the things through the roof like? I remember looking at that feature but didn't get round to climbing on it.
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This is the crag mentioned previously on UKB as Torr Edge, home of The Hmm Prow E4 6b - FA Johnny Brown.
What were the things through the roof like? I remember looking at that feature but didn't get round to climbing on it.
I can't find any mention of Torr Edge? Your post reporting the prow just says Tor Quarry? Also couldn't find a name of the edge on any maps, but did find a photo on geograph.org.uk calling it "Blindside Rocks" so I've gone with that.
The roof is decent, though small. You can start low in the middle and traverse to the left arete and up which is the hardest of the current offerings, maybe 6C+ (??), and has some interesting moves. Maybe possible to extend by starting low on the right, not sure how dabby! For real classic status could link into the reverse traverse of the lip.
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Nice one. They look good. Had a look up there recently. Did you do anything on a buttress quite a bit of way along over the wall in your second pic?
Yeah I did four problems on one buttress with a central crackline, maybe two 6Cs (ish!) and two easier things, then did another thing a bit further along.
No idea if any of them are what you mean!
Think it is the central crack wall. Thought it was the best looking bit on offer along there. Didn't climb owt so no retro claims from me!
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Looks like nice quality rock. Calling it Blindside Rocks though, didn't see that one coming :whistle:
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Nice one. They look good. Had a look up there recently. Did you do anything on a buttress quite a bit of way along over the wall in your second pic?
Yeah I did four problems on one buttress with a central crackline, maybe two 6Cs (ish!) and two easier things, then did another thing a bit further along.
No idea if any of them are what you mean!
Think it is the central crack wall. Thought it was the best looking bit on offer along there. Didn't climb owt so no retro claims from me!
Aha, that buttress required minimal cleaning so I'd not be surprised if it's been climbed on before! The thing further on is actually pretty cool, a vert wall with a shapely scoop / smile feature you mantel onto.
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This is the crag mentioned previously on UKB as Torr Edge, home of The Hmm Prow E4 6b - FA Johnny Brown.
What were the things through the roof like? I remember looking at that feature but didn't get round to climbing on it.
I can't find any mention of Torr Edge? Your post reporting the prow just says Tor Quarry? Also couldn't find a name of the edge on any maps, but did find a photo on geograph.org.uk calling it "Blindside Rocks" so I've gone with that.
The roof is decent, though small. You can start low in the middle and traverse to the left arete and up which is the hardest of the current offerings, maybe 6C+ (??), and has some interesting moves. Maybe possible to extend by starting low on the right, not sure how dabby! For real classic status could link into the reverse traverse of the lip.
You're right, looking back I only mentioned the quarry (called Tor Quarry in the Burbage guide) by name and that it had a natural bit further along. No idea where I dreamt up the extra R.
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Here is a little topo. Grades are most likely all over the place.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12fsDOcnMDSIr79Ut3rcEJPMk5NdSPyTC/view?usp=sharing
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Thanks!
My partner's recovering from a knee injury so some of these look perfect for us to enjoy a session together.
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Thanks!
My partner's recovering from a knee injury so some of these look perfect for us to enjoy a session together.
You're welcome. Hope you enjoy if you go.
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Good work. Nice topo. :2thumbsup:
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I did the easier ones in area 2 and all of area 3 plus some eliminates a couple of years ago.
I'll share thoughts on grades and some pics tomorrow night.
I had the impression it was banned/I was unwelcome. What did you think?
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I did the easier ones in area 2 and all of area 3 plus some eliminates a couple of years ago.
I'll share thoughts on grades and some pics tomorrow night.
I had the impression it was banned/I was unwelcome. What did you think?
It's on Access Land so should be all good.
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Went here today - it really is a lovely spot. Thanks very much for the topo Ed. It made everything easy to find.
I did a few things but hadn't seen your pic of Call my Agent finishing using the left wall so I mistakenly finished up the top of the block using my right heel on the lip.
Maybe it could be the mistaken FA of a different finish ?
I'll link to a video taken too far away but you can get the idea.
https://youtu.be/_3S_2J_EajU
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Went here today - it really is a lovely spot. Thanks very much for the topo Ed. It made everything easy to find.
I did a few things but hadn't seen your pic of Call my Agent finishing using the left wall so I mistakenly finished up the top of the block using my right heel on the lip.
Maybe it could be the mistaken FA of a different finish ?
I'll link to a video taken too far away but you can get the idea.
https://youtu.be/_3S_2J_EajU
Sorry for the slow reply!
That looks like a good alternative finish for sure. I looked at doing something starting as for Call my Agent but going straight up but seem it'd require a fair bit of vegetation removal. Your thing looks like a good in between option.
I did the easier ones in area 2 and all of area 3 plus some eliminates a couple of years ago.
I'll share thoughts on grades and some pics tomorrow night.
I had the impression it was banned/I was unwelcome. What did you think?
Sorry for the really slow reply.
Let me know if you have alternative names for the stuff you did and I can update the topo and UKC.
Re: access, when I first went it did seem a little illegitimate but I checked maps and it is on access land as Stuart says so should be fine...
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There’s a Sheffield council access land notice on the collapsed gate. I would have thought that means it’s absolutely fine ?
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Did a couple of pleasant problems on the leaning sidewall of the Hmm Prow at the weekend. Good rock and setting etc.
Hmm Wall 6A Sit start on the rock, LH flatty/pocket, RH low edge. Crimp up breaks to the top. Be careful not to fall off to the left.. (done before?)
Dunno 6B+ Same start, move right to the good square slot with RH, and slap top
Meh 7A Same start, traverse right, matching the square slot, to the next slot, then slap the top. Quite good.
Hmm Wall
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51981627942_7eb44878a2_c.jpg)
Meh
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51982635626_c7779c7f6a_c.jpg)
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These look great!