UKBouldering.com
technical => photography => Topic started by: Sasquatch on November 26, 2014, 10:17:15 pm
-
So when I upload footage from my Nikon D5100 to my macbook pro, it comes across as 720P MOV. file after looking it up online, it's because the footage is recorded in some h.264 codec that has to be converted to be able to keep the image quality. I'm fairly ignorant of this stuff at the moment.
Anybody know much about this? and if so, how did you deal with it, what converter do you use?
-
I think a .mov file is a fairly standard one? What software are you using for editing it? You should be able to google and find a codec for converting it so your software can read it.
I've got a Windows machine so never had the problem, mine just works! :) Actually that's not true. I was using Sony Vegas Pro before which read eveything, now I've got Adobe Premier it needs codecs for some files.
-
So when I upload footage from my Nikon D5100 to my macbook pro, it comes across as 720P MOV. file after looking it up online, it's because the footage is recorded in some h.264 codec that has to be converted to be able to keep the image quality. I'm fairly ignorant of this stuff at the moment.
Anybody know much about this? and if so, how did you deal with it, what converter do you use?
what was your frame rate? DSLRs often go to 720p if you have 60fps. Edit: After having checked it seems this is the case for your camera.
The h.264 codec shouldn't mean that you're limited to 720p resolution, and I don't think (although I'm no expert) it'd be standard practice to upscale your footage.
Edit: If you did intend to shoot 60fps then you'll have to upscale it. I use(d) Vegas and it's done simply by setting the project res to 1080p and then importing a section of 720p. Voila.
-
Are you copying it over or importing with iMovie? If it's the latter then it could be trying to do something 'clever' on import; if so check import settings.
-
I recommend Mpeg Streamclip for transcoding video. It's free, fast and effective. It's even used in commercial post production houses for converting video files.
If you're editing the footage, it might be better to stick with 720 rather than upscaling?
.mov is just a "wrapper" and a .mov file can actually have a h264, mp4, pro res file inside it!
What are you using to edit? I know from the old days of my using Final Cut pro, Pro Res was the way to go, but now I'm using other packages (Avid, Premiere etc..) they all have their own particular workflows.
The issue with camera files is more to do with the fact that they are so compressed that the editing software or playback software gets shut down by the process of uncompressing the files all the time. Uncompressing the files interrupts the smoothness of the editing processes, or the smoothness of the playback.
-
I recommend Mpeg Streamclip for transcoding video. It's free, fast and effective. It's even used in commercial post production houses for converting video files.
If you're editing the footage, it might be better to stick with 720 rather than upscaling?
.mov is just a "wrapper" and a .mov file can actually have a h264, mp4, pro res file inside it!
What are you using to edit? I know from the old days of my using Final Cut pro, Pro Res was the way to go, but now I'm using other packages (Avid, Premiere etc..) they all have their own particular workflows.
The issue with camera files is more to do with the fact that they are so compressed that the editing software or playback software gets shut down by the process of uncompressing the files all the time. Uncompressing the files interrupts the smoothness of the editing processes, or the smoothness of the playback.
I've currently been using iMovie. free and does mostly what I want/need....
FYI - the camera is set to 1080p 30fps recording, but iMovie will only read it as 720p.... The iPhone footage I have comes in as 1080p.
-
I think the problem will be in iMovie settings rather than the codec / mov file. The h.264 codec I think is the standard dslr codec which is how the data from the original image is compressed and stored. Apparently it's used as it retains certain types of information that often contributes to the digital look e.g contrasty with clipped 'over white' parts of the image which lead to a digital as opposed to film look, but then again that may be wrong!
A quick google I found this: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4788037?start=0&tstart=0
I don't know if its relavent or helpful tho!
-
you should take your camera to a cemetery and leave it (after 9pm) with a bag of frozen coffee beans and the spare key to a Prius
the following morning (before 6.30am), do some pseudo yoga about 4 feet from the entrance to the cemetery (for just over 22 minutes) before picking up the camera
this trick will only work if you pay me $29 before midnight tonight
apart from that, I have nothing useful to say
-
Just had a quick look online. It seems that d5100 to iMovie is a bit less smooth than perhaps some of the other camera imports - there seem to be a few issues. Most places recommend a converting step before you bring it into iMovie.
If you decide to use mpeg streamclip, you can import a batch (cmd+B) of files and convert them all to a quicktime. The option in quicktime to choose (there will be a whole load of them available to you) is "Apple Intermediate Codec". If you leave all of the other settings the same, then you should get a file that represents what you originally filmed (1080 30fps).
I use mpeg streamclip for work all the time (when I'm editing) and it's very good, honestly.
get back to me if you find it a bit hard to get your head round, but it's a very useful free program to have.
-
I downloaded MPeg Stremclip, and it seems like it should work. I def don't have a good workflow defined yet, but testing it on a couple of short clips really brought the quality back up to where it should be.
Thanks all for the help.
you should take your camera to a cemetery and leave it (after 9pm) with a bag of frozen coffee beans and the spare key to a Prius
the following morning (before 6.30am), do some pseudo yoga about 4 feet from the entrance to the cemetery (for just over 22 minutes) before picking up the camera
this trick will only work if you pay me $29 before midnight tonight
apart from that, I have nothing useful to say
I was close to doing this, but the alternative seemed to work great :)