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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Teaboy on July 01, 2015, 10:36:30 am

Title: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 01, 2015, 10:36:30 am
Someone on the women who have climbed 8a recently thread said the equivalent for men would be 8b+. Personally I'd like to see this list but am in no way qualified to write it. However, I thought if I at least make a bungling start people will get indignant enough to correct my mistakes and omissions. So here is a nascent list to build on (apologies in advance for those left out etc.):

Ben Moon, Rain Shadow
Steve McClure, Batshadow
Neil Mawson, Raining Bats and Dogs
Ryan Pasquill, Jungle Speed
Paul Smitton, Dogs Dinner traverse?
Haydn Jones, Mecca?
Ed Hamer, ?
Ethan Walker, Hadj
Stu Littlefair, Batt Route
Sam Whittaker, Bat Route
Ben Bransbury, extension to The Brute
Simon Davis, Mecca
George Carmicheal, Mecca

Jim Pope, Mecca

Rich Waterton, Unjustified

Anthony Ingham, Unjustified
Keefe Murphy, El Club de la Lucha
Ted Kingsnorth, Kabahha
Adam Lincoln, Dr Crimp
Ally Smith, that one in Spain
Ru Davis, 32

Arran Deakin, Unjustified
Adam Jeeworth, Bat Route
Dave from Lverpool, Mecca
John Maskell, Fish Eye

Neil Gresham, Welcome to Tijuana
Jon Freeman, Bat Route


Bruno Marks, Unjustified
Tom Bolger, Era Vella

William Bosi, Transform
Dave McCLoud, Fight or Flight
Alan Cassidy, Metal Core
Malcom Smith, Hunger


Gaz Parry, Supersónico

Buster Martin, Bat Route
Ellis Butler-Baker, Brian
Ben West, Helvetia
Cailean Harker, Poppy
Gavin Symonds, Poppy
Luke Dawson, Tuppence Ha'penny

Neil Dyer, Megalopa
Pete Robbins, Megalopa
Chris Doyle, Raiders of the Dark Art
Oli Groundsel, Meglopa
James McAffee, Big Bang

mic_b (from UKC logbook), Mecca
Apharri (from UKC logbook), Bat Route
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: joel182 on July 01, 2015, 10:41:55 am
Jordan Buys, Rainshadow
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Nibile on July 01, 2015, 10:43:39 am
James Pearson, Le Bronx in Orgon.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 01, 2015, 10:48:18 am
Arrgh, they're not exactly dark horses! Jordan was actually first on the list but somehow missed and James ahs done 9a in Spain hasn't he? Es-something
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: petejh on July 01, 2015, 10:49:38 am
Rich Simpson, various
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Nutty on July 01, 2015, 10:50:30 am
Dave MacLeod - Fight the Feeling.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: turnipturned on July 01, 2015, 10:52:12 am
This is going to be one long list!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: turnipturned on July 01, 2015, 11:04:09 am
Palmtree- progress
Vickers- True north and most probably something more recent
Stunning- Cry of freedom
Delboy Newberry- Death Star
Will Kelsall- 32
Mike Grey- True north
Birkett?


Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 01, 2015, 11:05:52 am
Oops,
Alex Barrows, Ela Vera,
Chris Savage, Progress

Looks like Turnipturned is right, should have kept it to 8c.....
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 01, 2015, 11:09:57 am
I can't believe I missed Steve D off, I was climbing with him last week!

I should have said that the recent thing was supposed to mimic the other thread where a 5 year cut off was decided on. So Ian Vickers' ascent of True North (and Rich Simpson's ascents) are disqualified. That said Vickers has probably done loads in the last 5 years, probably onsight, and no one will ever know!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 01, 2015, 11:15:55 am
Dave Barrans, Indian Summer?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Nibile on July 01, 2015, 11:30:15 am
James did Escalatamasters in 2012, so that's in.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 01, 2015, 11:37:08 am
Bruno Marks (no not the singer)


http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62294
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 01, 2015, 11:56:12 am
Is that a different Bruno Marks that's climbed Unjustified to the one that was in the original list?  :look:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: tim palmer on July 01, 2015, 12:23:04 pm
adam jeffs ?sp did cry freedom I think
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 01, 2015, 12:43:46 pm
Is that a different Bruno Marks that's climbed Unjustified to the one that was in the original list?  :look:

Sorry, missed him due to the odd grouping. Shoot me if you must.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: mr chaz on July 01, 2015, 01:05:29 pm
I believe Andy Hutchinson did mecca a few years ago
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ali on July 01, 2015, 01:19:05 pm
Stevie Haston? 9a just outside 5yr limit but anything since?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: willackers on July 01, 2015, 01:27:25 pm
Freeman Brothers
George Carmichael
Eddie Barbour
Niall McNair
Robbie Phillips
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Wood FT on July 01, 2015, 01:28:31 pm
Bob Hickish - True North
Theo Elmer - Mecca
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: petejh on July 01, 2015, 01:31:05 pm
Not convinced 'men who've recently climbed 8b+' is the equivalent of 'women who've recently climbed 8a'. I understand why the suggestion - both are 4 levels below the current max sport grade for UK men & women -  but shouldn't a large difference in the number of participants between men and women also have some bearing on expectation level? i.e. wouldn't 'average benchmarks' be expected to be slightly higher in a much larger pool of participants. 8c?

Somebody with real data/stats backgrounds please correct me as I have none
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: T_B on July 01, 2015, 01:41:59 pm


Somebody with real data/stats backgrounds please correct me as I have none

Isn't that the precise point of this thread? Even if it ends up with 100+ men who've climbed 8b+, we'll see how many have climbed 8c. 44 women have climbed 8a, so far the 8b+ list for men doesn't seem to be that much longer.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 01, 2015, 01:52:20 pm
Paul Reeve - Cry Freedom
Rob Napier - Bat Route
Dave McLoughlin - Devolution into Waddage 8c
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 01, 2015, 01:52:50 pm
Freeman Brothers
George Carmichael
Eddie Barbour
Niall McNair
Robbie Phillips

Do you have routes for these guys? I've got George as doing Mecca and Jon as doing Bat Route, is that correct? I'm guessing Bellavista for Robbie?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 01, 2015, 01:54:39 pm
mic_b (from UKC logbook), Mecca
Apharri (from UKC logbook), Bat Route

AKA Mick Bate and Adam Harrison
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Probes on July 01, 2015, 02:02:50 pm
Does going sideways count Teaboy..?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy_e on July 01, 2015, 02:04:15 pm
Put your trumpet away!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Monolith on July 01, 2015, 02:12:35 pm
Matt Donnelly - Mecca Extension
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: iwasmexican on July 01, 2015, 02:14:59 pm
Freeman Brothers
George Carmichael
Eddie Barbour
Niall McNair
Robbie Phillips

Do you have routes for these guys? I've got George as doing Mecca and Jon as doing Bat Route, is that correct? I'm guessing Bellavista for Robbie?

Eddies done Migranya Profunda at Siurana most recently according to 8spray (as well as a few others) and Jons done a few 8cs on UKC
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Probes on July 01, 2015, 02:21:53 pm
Put your trumpet away!
A few other trumpets would be on if so..
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: petejh on July 01, 2015, 02:41:18 pm


Somebody with real data/stats backgrounds please correct me as I have none

Isn't that the precise point of this thread? Even if it ends up with 100+ men who've climbed 8b+, we'll see how many have climbed 8c. 44 women have climbed 8a, so far the 8b+ list for men doesn't seem to be that much longer.

I guess so yeah. (although you'd get that from a 7a and above list too..)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Grubes on July 01, 2015, 02:45:39 pm
didn't pete whittacker do kaabah recently

does doing the grade on trad gear count? i.e. Tom R cobra crack/century crack
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: kelvin on July 01, 2015, 02:47:20 pm
Dan Kyte - Mecca

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: abarro81 on July 01, 2015, 02:57:53 pm
Ben Heason - 32, Darwin
Pete Dawson - various
Will Smith - various
Ben Davison - various

Ethan's not done Hajj


Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ally Smith on July 01, 2015, 03:50:29 pm
9a & beyond
Steve Mcclure, Batman, 9a/+, Malham
Tom Bolger, Cuidad de dios, 9a/+, Era Vella

Stevie Haston, Descente Lolitta, Grotte de Sabat (reported 8th June 2010, so just within the 5 year limit)
Alex Barrows, Era Vella, Margalef
Jordan Buys, Rainshadow, Malham
Ben Moon, Rainshadow, Malham
Malc Smith, Hunger, Anvil
James McHaffie, Big Bang, LPT
Paul Smitton, Dogs Dinner traverse, 9a (Within the last 5 years?)

Dave Macleod, Fight the Feeling, 8c+/9a, Steall Hut Crag
James Pearson, Escalatamàsters, 8c+/9a, Perles
Ryan Pasquill, Stevolution, Tor & Jungle Speed, Suirana, both 8c+/9a
Stew Watson, Mordor, 8c+/9a, Niederthai, Austria

8c+
Gaz Parry, Supersonico, Costa Blanca
Tim Palmer, Progress, Kilnsey
Chris Savage, Progress, Kilnsey
Pete Robins, Diamond Dogs, Diamond
Neil Dyer, Megaloupa, LPT
Oli Grounsell , Megaloupa, LPT
Pete Whittaker, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ted Kingsnorth, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ethan Walker, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ellis Butler-Barker, Brian, Ansteys Cove
Wiz Fineron, Mr Hyde, Ceuse
Alan Cassidy, Metalcore, Anvil
Ben Davison, Eye of Odin, Flatanger
Will Smith, ultimate sacrifice, Gorge du loup

Neil Mawson, Raining Bats and Dogs, 8c/+, Malham

8c
Neil Gresham, Welcome to Tijuana, Rodellar
Paul Reeve, Cry Freedom, Malham
Robbie Phillips, Especio Tempo, Costa Blanca
Tom Newberry, Deathstar, Cheddar
Tom Randall, Cobra Crack, Squamish
Ben Bransby, The Beast, Diamond
Jon Clark, Mecca Ext, Tor
Matt Donnelly, Mecca Ext, Tor
Stuart Littlefair, Mecca Ext, Tor
Dave McLoughlin, Hajj, Tor
John Maskell, Fisheye, Oliana
Bob Hickish, Endeavor, Dorset
Robin Sutton, Bat Route, Malham
Buster Martin, Bat Route, Malham
Jon Freeman, Bat Shadow, Malham
Adam Jeeworth, Bat Route, Malham
Richard Waterton, Bat Route, Malham
Adam Harrison, Bat Route, Malham
Sam Whittaker, Bat Route, Malham
Sam Hamer, Welcome to Tijuana, Rodellar
William Bosi, Transform, Malham
Steve Dunning, Cry of freedom, Malham
Adam Jeffs, Cry of freedom, Malham
Mike Grey, True north, Kilnsey
Rob Napier, Bat Route, Malham

Ben West, Helvetia, 8b+/c, Shipwreck Cove
Jim Pope, Helvetia, 8b+/c, Shipwreck Cove
Bruno Marks, Unjustified, 8b+/c, Malham
Dan Walker, Unjustified, 8b+/c, Malham
Anthony Ingham, Unjustified, 8b+/c, Malham
Arran Deakin, Unjustified, 8b+/c, Malham


8b+
Nial McNair??
Eddie Barbour, Transworld Depravity, RRG
Adam Lincoln, Dr Crimp, Kilnsey
Theo Elmer, Mecca, Tor
Will Kelsall, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Ally Smith, Aspid, Spain
Ru Davis, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Haydn Jones, Mecca, Tor
Ed Hamer, ?
Luke Dawson, Mecca, Tor
Simon Davis, Mecca, Tor
George Carmicheal, Mecca, Tor
Keefe Murphy, El Club de la Lucha
Cailean Harker, Poppy, Ansteys
Gavin Symonds, Poppy, Ansteys
Chris Doyle, Raiders of the Dark Art, North Wales
Dave Barrans, Indian Summer, Kilnsey
Mick Bate, Mecca, Tor
Dan Kyte, Mecca, Tor
Ben Heason, 32, Cheedale Cornice

Dave from Liverpool, Mecca (if you mean Pinnington, I don’t think he did it in the end, though he did succeed on Staminband)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Wood FT on July 01, 2015, 04:02:58 pm
good work Ally, Emma is most certainly a woman however.

Ed hamer has climbed welcome to tijuana, 8c I believe

Will Smith has climbed ultimate sacrifice, 8c+ in Gorge du loup as well if you're putting people in grade categories.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ally Smith on July 01, 2015, 04:24:10 pm
Well spotted - I've edited the post above for accuracy (I'd already made a start on a list of all UK ascents >8c before this thread started.)

Anymore?

Cumbrian and Northern Irish Dark Horses?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cheque on July 01, 2015, 04:24:54 pm
Stevie Haston, Descente Lolitta, Grotte de Sabat (reported 8th June 2010, so just within the 5 year limit)

Three weeks outside it if we're being precise. ;)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on July 01, 2015, 04:28:14 pm
I do love a good list.

Unjustified is 8b+ not slash grade, lets not drag that out anymore.

Sam whit has done bat route.

Has sam hamer done 8c? i dont know him but not seen it mentioned before.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: abarro81 on July 01, 2015, 04:50:22 pm
Sam hasn't AFAIK. Ed is the one who did welcome to Tijuana.

Jon freeman hasn't done bat shadow but has done bats n digs as has Joe cook
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ru on July 01, 2015, 05:00:10 pm
Ah but how many of those had kids, arent either professional climbers or own/run a climbing wall and are over 40. Anthony Ingham wins.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: tc on July 01, 2015, 05:07:21 pm
Stevie Haston, Descente Lolitta, Grotte de Sabat (reported 8th June 2010, so just within the 5 year limit)


Haston also did Hugh at Eaux Claires after this.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 01, 2015, 05:20:52 pm
That's a bit more like it, thanks Ally.

I did mean Dave Pinnington.

Interestingly, although I missed half of them off my original list, there are very few genuinely dark horses on there, i.e. people or ascents I've never heard of. That said, when written down its a lot of names. Pity there isn't a similar list from previous years as I expect it'd show the pyramid getting a lot fatter (if not taller) very quickly.

Ru, is Ant really the only one who fulfils that criteria? Something to aim for!
 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on July 01, 2015, 05:37:04 pm
Off the top of my head there were around 20= who had climbed 8c or above before 2000. i would guess this would be up in the 30s if you included 8b+

This was done on here before some time ago.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Lund on July 01, 2015, 05:58:26 pm
Interestingly, although I missed half of them off my original list, there are very few genuinely dark horses on there, i.e. people or ascents I've never heard of. That said, when written down its a lot of names. Pity there isn't a similar list from previous years as I expect it'd show the pyramid getting a lot fatter (if not taller) very quickly.

I believe there are darker horses on here, keeping their light under a bushel.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Stu Littlefair on July 01, 2015, 06:59:34 pm
Then out them.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Mike Highbury on July 01, 2015, 07:08:03 pm
Ian MacDonald, Full Equip?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on July 01, 2015, 08:33:12 pm
Sorry to be pedantic but my route is Raiders of the Dark Ark. Si Moore has done Surf Safari which gets 8b/+ although probably 8b+ in this day and age.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: saltbeef on July 01, 2015, 10:22:09 pm
Think Neddy has done Mecca innit
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: a dense loner on July 01, 2015, 10:45:38 pm
Fuckin Neddy? I think you're on the wrong website
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: abarro81 on July 01, 2015, 10:46:53 pm
Varian - Malcolm x
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 01, 2015, 11:05:15 pm
Doesn't seem to be any mention of Matt Pickles who's done True North
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 02, 2015, 08:14:53 am
I was racking my brains to think of any Scots outside those mentioned, but must names I can see are missing the crucial + in the grade.

Only one I can find is "Stewart B"

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=47412

But he thinks it's not 8b+?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy_e on July 02, 2015, 08:28:35 am
What about Tim Rankin?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: turnipturned on July 02, 2015, 08:52:27 am
Hock?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cheque on July 02, 2015, 09:17:28 am
John Cooke?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 02, 2015, 09:33:12 am
What about Tim Rankin?

He's one of those confirmed 8b, but not confirmed 8b+, although I think he has. Need to have a look at FAs in the Sport Guide, most up to date info!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Lund on July 02, 2015, 01:03:36 pm
Then out them.

I'm not sure I should.  I mean, there are a few reasons why not - but given that lots of people on here know our Russell Howard lookalike, and I hear the duke spent pretty much all last year falling off the top of the extension on redpoint, then it's hardly unknown knowledge.  So I'll leave it to others.

It does illustrate what I think is the pointless nature of these lists though.  Kind of the opposite of needing video evidence for every name on the list - there will be plenty of people that do stuff and don't spray enough about it to get on the list?  Or does that not happen?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on July 02, 2015, 01:24:18 pm
John Cooke?
John climbed mecca in 2007
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on July 02, 2015, 01:27:45 pm
Char climbed mecca in 2010
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Stu Littlefair on July 02, 2015, 01:33:47 pm

It does illustrate what I think is the pointless nature of these lists though.  Kind of the opposite of needing video evidence for every name on the list - there will be plenty of people that do stuff and don't spray enough about it to get on the list?  Or does that not happen?

That's exactly the point of these lists. It's surprisingly hard for dark horses to hide when you crowd source the knowledge of who's climbed what. So we get to find out if there are plenty of people who don't spray. If everyone keeps schtum, we learn nothing.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 02, 2015, 01:44:20 pm

I'm not sure I should.  I mean, there are a few reasons why not - but given that lots of people on here know our Russell Howard lookalike, and I hear the duke spent pretty much all last year falling off the top of the extension on redpoint, then it's hardly unknown knowledge.  So I'll leave it to others.

It does illustrate what I think is the pointless nature of these lists though.  Kind of the opposite of needing video evidence for every name on the list - there will be plenty of people that do stuff and don't spray enough about it to get on the list?  Or does that not happen?

I'm not sure what the issue is, I certainly didn't ask anyone's permission before 'outing' them. I'm sure there  are people who should be on the list but aren't but that's because they are unknown or forgotten and not a conscious effort to keep someone off, why would there be? If you know someone stick their name up, cant imagine anything worse than climbing the required grade and not making the list!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Lund on July 02, 2015, 02:01:04 pm
Char was"outed" above by kingy anyway, but my point was actually really the second one - I wonder if the dark horses are indeed outed simply by crowd sourcing.  Maybe at the snore, where there are millions of people, it's impossible to hide.  Although gaskins managed it didn't he?  :worms:

Anyway, point discussed to depth, move on, nothing to see here.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: T_B on July 02, 2015, 02:11:24 pm
Surely Char was outed when he made a half-hour film about Mecca!?  :lol:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 02, 2015, 03:26:03 pm
I hope we do get to whittle out all the dark horses but I guess there's no way of knowing. I'd be surprised if many northerners slip through the net but there seems to be a paucity of southern climbers. There are certainly plenty of strong dudes in the walls down there who may, inexplicably, chose to project routes in Kalymnos or Catalonia rather than the Tor and I expect we wouldn't necessarily know about these (does UKB have a London correspondent or at least a couple of stringers?). Talking of which..........
Yann Genoux (not sure of spelling)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: T_B on July 02, 2015, 03:45:07 pm
Speaking of dark horses who shy away from the limelight, Tim Emmett did Captain America (F8c) at Chekamus Canyon last year.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: maybe_si on July 02, 2015, 03:46:48 pm

Yep, Yann did Mecca a few months back
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: T_B on July 02, 2015, 03:50:03 pm
Yeah, I know a few French climbers who've climbed 8b+ as well
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on July 02, 2015, 03:56:18 pm
Is this not a European wide list? I wondered why UK climbers were so well represented.

Good point T_B, it leaves the London dark horse spot vacant once more
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Lund on July 02, 2015, 04:11:42 pm
Char and Jim Pope live in London.  Buster Martin too?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 02, 2015, 04:47:16 pm
Another Brit abroad is Ali Kennedy - Kalea Borroka 8b+
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 02, 2015, 04:52:11 pm
Good point T_B, it leaves the London dark horse spot vacant once more

Liam Halsey ??
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 03, 2015, 09:17:48 am
I browsed the Scottish Sport Climbs book last night, and Dave Redpath has the FA of an 8b+ from 2012. Can't remember where, though, Dumbuck or Dumby or something. Maybe Adam L knows. Will look again tonight.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on July 03, 2015, 09:59:52 am
Dave Redpath did Devestation Generation in 2010. Think it gets 8c.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 03, 2015, 10:20:57 am
Thanks Doylo. I think he's done some other stuff about that grade too.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: iain on July 03, 2015, 03:41:41 pm
I browsed the Scottish Sport Climbs book last night, and Dave Redpath has the FA of an 8b+ from 2012. Can't remember where, though, Dumbuck or Dumby or something. Maybe Adam L knows. Will look again tonight.
Dave's in the Peak at the mo, the 2012 8b+ is Aqua Vitae at Dumbuck, although it's not had a second ascent to confirm the grade.

Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 03, 2015, 04:06:49 pm
That's the viper. I've got a brain like one of those things with a fine mesh in it you use in cooking. Anyway, looks like he's in.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ally Smith on July 07, 2015, 11:16:47 am
Updated list including earlier comments:

At least 86 individuals climbing >8b+ in the last 5 years (maybe 90 - see final comments) and at least 57 individuals climbing >8c in the same time frame.

I hereby declare UK sport climbing to be in rude health!

9a & beyond
Steve Mcclure, Batman, 9a/+, Malham
Tom Bolger, Cuidad de dios, 9a/+, Era Vella

Stevie Haston, Hugh, Vallee des Eaux Claires.
Alex Barrows, Era Vella, Margalef
Jordan Buys, Rainshadow, Malham
Ben Moon, Rainshadow, Malham
Malc Smith, Hunger, Anvil
James McHaffie, Big Bang, LPT

Dave Macleod, Fight the Feeling, 8c+/9a, Steall Hut Crag
James Pearson, Escalatamàsters, 8c+/9a, Perles
Ryan Pasquill, Stevolution, Tor & Jungle Speed, Suirana, both 8c+/9a
Stew Watson, Mordor, 8c+/9a, Niederthai, Austria

8c+
Gaz Parry, Supersonico, Costa Blanca
Tim Palmer, Progress, Kilnsey
Chris Savage, Progress, Kilnsey
Pete Robins, Diamond Dogs, Diamond
Neil Dyer, Megaloupa, LPT
Oli Grounsell , Megaloupa, LPT
Pete Whittaker, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ted Kingsnorth, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ethan Walker, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ellis Butler-Barker, Brian, Anstey’s Cove
Wiz Fineron, Mr Hyde, Ceuse
Alan Cassidy, Metalcore, Anvil
Ben Davison, Eye of Odin, Flatanger
Will Smith, ultimate sacrifice, Gorge du loup

Neil Mawson, Raining Bats and Dogs, 8c/+, Malham
Jon Freeman, Raining Bats and Dogs, 8c/+, Malham

8c
Neil Gresham, Welcome to Tijuana , Rodellar
Ed Hamer, Welcome to Tijuana , Rodellar
Paul Reeve, Cry Freedom, Malham
Robbie Phillips, Especio Tempo, Costa Blanca
Tom Newberry, Deathstar, Cheddar
Tom Randall, Cobra Crack, Squamish
Ben Bransby, The Beast, Diamond
Jon Clark, Mecca Ext, Tor
Matt Donnelly, Mecca Ext, Tor
Stuart Littlefair, Mecca Ext, Tor
Dave McLoughlin, Hajj, Tor
Matt Pickles, True North, Kilnsey
John Maskell, Fisheye, Oliana
Bob Hickish, Endeavor, Dorset
Robin Sutton, Bat Route, Malham
Buster Martin, Bat Route, Malham
Adam Jeeworth, Bat Route, Malham
Richard Waterton, Bat Route, Malham
Adam Harrison, Bat Route, Malham
William Bosi, Transform, Malham
Steve Dunning, Cry of freedom, Malham
Adam Jeffs, Cry of freedom, Malham
Mike Grey, True north, Kilnsey
Rob Napier, Bat Route, Malham
Sam Whittaker, Bat Route, Malham
Aidrian Baxter, Kalandraka, Rodellar
Tim Emmett, Captain America, Chekamus Canyon

Ben West, Helvetia, 8b+/c, Shipwreck Cove
Jim Pope, Helvetia, 8b+/c, Shipwreck Cove

8b+
Dave Redpath, Aqua Vitae, Dumbuck
Ali Kennedy, Kalea Borroka, Suirana
Ian MacDonald, T1 Full Equip, Oliana
Gav Symonds, Poppy, Anstey’s Cove
Andre Hedger, Neandertal, Tenerife
Alex Waterhouse, Tuppence Ha'penny, Anstey’s Cove
Pete Dawson, Chimaera, Anstey’s Cove
Bruno Marks, Unjustified, Malham
Dan Walker, Unjustified, Malham
Anthony Ingham, Unjustified, Malham
Arran Deakin, Unjustified, Malham
Eddie Barbour, Transworld Depravity, RRG
Adam Lincoln, Dr Crimp, Kilnsey
Theo Elmer, Mecca, Tor
Will Kelsall, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Ally Smith, Aspid, Spain
Ru Davis, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Haydn Jones, Mecca, Tor
Luke Dawson, Mecca, Tor
Simon Davis, Mecca, Tor
George Carmicheal, Mecca, Tor
Keefe Murphy, El Club de la Lucha
Cailean Harker, Poppy, Ansteys
Gavin Symonds, Poppy, Ansteys
Chris Doyle, Raiders of the Dark Ark, North Wales
Si Moore, Surf Safari, where & when?
Dan Varian, Malcolm X, Cheedale (when in 2010?)
Dave Barrans, Indian Summer, Kilnsey
Mick Bate, Mecca, Tor
Dan Kyte, Mecca, Tor
Ben Heason, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Char (who?), Mecca, Tor

Nearly but not quite:
Paul Smitton, Dogs Dinner traverse was just >5years ago.
Stevie Haston, Descente Lolitta, Grotte de Sabat was just >5years ago.

Unknowns:
Nial McNair - capable?
Sam Hamer – good genetics?
Ben Freeman – snap, more than capable?

Ned Feehally, Mecca, Tor (when?)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: iwasmexican on July 07, 2015, 11:34:24 am
just chased it down on fb: mcnair did mal de isla (8b+) at chulilla late last year
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 07, 2015, 11:39:42 am
Sam Hamer – good genetics?
Ben Freeman – snap, more than capable?
Ned Feehally, Mecca, Tor (when?)

Sam Hamer's profile on Berghaus has him having flashed up to 8a and done 4x8b
 
Ben Freeman is more of a boulderer than his brother. He has a UKC Logbook with his hardest route being some 8b route at Malham.

Ned Feehally is quoted in various interviews as having climbed Mecca and there is a photo of him on it taken by Nick Brown in Oct 2012

And its Char Williams
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on July 07, 2015, 12:01:37 pm
Is Welcome to Tijuana not now 8b+ (and this is according to Neil not just 8a.nu speculation).
Is cry freedom now confirmed at this grade, i thought that was still in discussion.
Is Brian confirmed at 8c+ only one repeat and i thought it was always 8c.

These are not me saying they are, just questions.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: tim palmer on July 07, 2015, 12:48:58 pm
I thought dave redpath had done devastation generation at dumbuck which is 8c?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2015, 12:51:17 pm
Dave Redpath did Devestation Generation in 2010. Think it gets 8c.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cha1n on July 07, 2015, 12:54:13 pm
I thought dave redpath had done devastation generation at dumbuck which is 8c?

5 year cut-off for the list isn't it?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: slackline on July 07, 2015, 01:10:10 pm
5 year cut-off for the list isn't it?

Its currently 2015....

Dave Redpath did Devestation Generation in 2010. Think it gets 8c.

 ::)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cha1n on July 07, 2015, 01:30:05 pm
5 year cut-off for the list isn't it?

Its currently 2015....

Dave Redpath did Devestation Generation in 2010. Think it gets 8c.

 ::)

He did it in May 2010.

 ::)

I'm not trying to get him off the list or anything, I've actually climbed with him a few times last week and he's a really nice guy, I'm just trying to explain why he may not be on the list!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: slackline on July 07, 2015, 01:37:41 pm
If you say so, I wouldn't know where to look to find such details, and had you actually written that when querying it (lazy not to if you were trying to make a point, its quite easy) I wouldn't have highlighted Doylos post.  :tease:

To be consistent you'd best go through the other 80 or so ascents and add the month, day and time of ascent, link to the source so that everyone else can verify it as valid and update the list hourly so you can keep the list pure and true to the completely arbitrary five year cut-off.

Only then will you be eligible for a pedantry medal.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cha1n on July 07, 2015, 01:46:18 pm
Well I'm usually trying to make my daytime posts briefly as I'm usually sneaking looks at UKB whilst at work, apologies for my 'laziness'.

http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/devastation-succumbs-to-redpath-grit.html (http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/devastation-succumbs-to-redpath-grit.html)

https://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/06/devastation-generation/ (https://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/06/devastation-generation/)

Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: petejh on July 07, 2015, 02:00:10 pm
HAVE HIM ERASED>
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Paul B on July 07, 2015, 02:04:17 pm
To be consistent you'd best go through the other 80 or so ascents and add the month, day and time of ascent, link to the source so that everyone else can verify it as valid and update the list hourly so you can keep the list pure and true to the completely arbitrary five year cut-off.

You could even code that, like some sort of scorecard system? "9a.nu" has a nice ring to it.

I think the lists would make a lot more sense if they were limited to British people climbing a given grade in Britain (but that's just my opinion).
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 07, 2015, 02:10:14 pm
Couple more titbits...

Rob Sutton may not have done Bat Route but did True North in 2011

Dave Pickford did Geminis 8b+, in 2010 and Helvetia (8b+, left hand version) in 2014.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: dk on July 07, 2015, 02:32:54 pm
Can I add - Dan Kyte, Mecca (without the knee bar), Tor.  Thanks :)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: slackline on July 07, 2015, 02:48:34 pm

You could even code that, like some sort of scorecard system? "9a.nu" has a nice ring to it.

You could but its then contingent on people using the scorecards.  As Stu has highlighted (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26017.msg492466.html#msg492466) there are 'dark horses' whose ascents go 'under the radar' as they don't use 8a.spray etc. and this thread is helping highlight those. 

Its still useful to have details though, e.g. why an ascent noted only upto that point as having been made in 2010 doesn't meet the arbitrary rule of having been in the last five years because without such details pointing out that 2015 - 2010 <= 5 is clearly a "fail".
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 07, 2015, 03:05:22 pm
Can I add - Dan Kyte, Mecca (without the knee bar), Tor.  Thanks :)

You're already in the list   
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: rosmat on July 07, 2015, 04:10:23 pm
Gordon Lennox has climbed 8b+ (Unjustified) and also 8c according to Alan Cassidy
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Hockstack on July 07, 2015, 06:26:54 pm
I climbed  El Club de la Lucha 8b+ at wildside about 2/3 years ago.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: sharpholds on July 07, 2015, 08:34:41 pm
Not sure if you just putting folks in at the 'top grade' but here's a few more that spring to mind...
Paul Reeve and Rob Napier have also done Unjustified -  within last 5yrs I think...about the time Sam Whit did it I think and I'm pretty sure it was after Dan Walker's ascent.
Are Hick did Techno Prisoners 8b+ in 2011
Ethan Walker did 32 last year - and Mecca and Mecca Ext.
Barney Ragin was done by Caff in 2010 and has been repeated by a few folks I think but I cant recall who but maybe Ben Bransby?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2015, 09:08:07 pm
Gordon Lennox has climbed 8b+ (Unjustified) and also 8c according to Alan Cassidy

Excellent, I had him in probably but couldn't find any evidence category
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: a dense loner on July 07, 2015, 09:24:08 pm
All I'm bothered about is hockstack breaking his silence, beast
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 07, 2015, 09:27:52 pm
Nearly but not quite:
Paul Smitton, Dogs Dinner traverse was just >5years ago.

More from the grapevine..

Paul Smitton missing out on Dogs Dinner is tight as he did it in May 2010

Stew Watson did Mordor in 2009 though presumably has done another qualifying ascent since.

If traverses are included then the Traverse of the Gods at Longridge would include Vickers amongst others

Dogs Dinner Traverse has also been done by Mawson and Bransby. Talking of Bransby I'm pretty sure I saw him do Make it Funky within the last 5 years - not that it gets him an upgrade.

Dan Walker's ascent of Unjustified was about Mar 2010
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on July 07, 2015, 09:31:25 pm
I wouldn't include traverses.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 07, 2015, 09:55:43 pm
Stew Watson did Mordor in 2009 though presumably has done another qualifying ascent since.

Looking at his blog Stew did the second ascent of Jakob Schubert's One Night Stand graded hard 8c+ in 2013
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: a dense loner on July 07, 2015, 10:32:20 pm
We're not having traverses for gods sake
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Duma on July 07, 2015, 10:36:39 pm
not even the traverse of the gods(sake)?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: abarro81 on July 07, 2015, 10:49:31 pm
Onlyhardest route sharpholds, otherwise the list will be endless. I'd say no to traverses.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: dave on July 07, 2015, 11:42:52 pm
Traverses aren't sport routes.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on July 08, 2015, 01:03:26 am
I believe the locals give welcome to tijuina 8c for the old direct way on the crux and a new easier variant looping out left to avoid the original crux has been christened tijuinita. I thought cry freedom was 8c now based on recent consensus and went in the new guide as such. Also apparently leachy gave it 8c initially but was persuaded by sandbaggers of the day to give it 8b+, the kneebar doesn't make as much of a diff as on mecca, to me at least.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 08, 2015, 08:14:15 am
the kneebar doesn't make as much of a diff as on mecca, to me at least.

Yes - we thrashed that one out here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20676.msg374234.html#msg374234) so 8b+ for Mecca until the new BMC definitive guide comes out in 2035

Traverses out otherwise we will have a number of hitherto unknown Longbridge locals getting above their station.

Ally can you update the list?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on July 08, 2015, 09:58:55 am
I dont think kingy was commenting on the mecca kneebar, i am guessing there is now one on Cry freedom.

I wasnt aware it had been upgraded in the new guide, another long standing route with multiple repeats confirming the grade gets upgraded. I blame the EU.

Gresham did the 8b+ version of Tijuana so needs moving in the list. No idea about Ed, i would have thought he has done more 8cs ( in fact i would have thought he would have climbed harder than that).

I really thought the list would have been in the multiple of 100s. No idea how many people climb in UK but it must be 100k so not even .001%. I guess 8b+ is still pretty elite.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: abarro81 on July 08, 2015, 10:12:32 am
Ed's done quite a few 8cs so stays on the list. Tiger cat (Australia) is his last one IIRC. Think most people climb Tijuana with the LH start, now seems to be given 8b+.

Cry Freedom - I was told that the crimp on the top crux was better back in the day, then got worse, then got slightly better again but still worse than it originally was. No idea of the veracity of any of these claims. I've done easier 8cs, but then I've done harder 8b+s.. It also felt like 8c when I was trying it but 8b+ when I did it... So who knows what grade it should get?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: petejh on July 08, 2015, 01:04:44 pm

I really thought the list would have been in the multiple of 100s. No idea how many people climb in UK but it must be 100k so not even .001%. I guess 8b+ is still pretty elite.

It must be in the multiple hundreds for all-time. It'd be interesting to see that list too but who's gonna compile it...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Duma on July 08, 2015, 01:08:30 pm
Least surprising post ever by gme...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 08, 2015, 01:39:24 pm
It must be in the multiple hundreds for all-time. It'd be interesting to see that list too but who's gonna compile it...

Well the grade has only been in existence since the mid 80s, so can't be that many in the first 5 years at least.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ally Smith on July 08, 2015, 01:56:45 pm
Ally can you update the list?

Yes, but i ain't gonna go compiling an all time list!

9a & beyond
Steve Mcclure, Batman, 9a/+, Malham
Tom Bolger, Cuidad de dios, 9a/+, Era Vella

Stevie Haston, Hugh, Vallee des Eaux Claires.
Alex Barrows, Era Vella, Margalef
Jordan Buys, Rainshadow, Malham
Ben Moon, Rainshadow, Malham
James McHaffie, Big Bang, LPT

Dave Macleod, Fight the Feeling, 8c+/9a, Steall Hut Crag
James Pearson, Escalatamàsters, 8c+/9a, Perles
Ryan Pasquill, Stevolution, Tor & Jungle Speed, Suirana, both 8c+/9a

8c+
Stew Watson, One Night Stand, Niederthai, Austria
Gaz Parry, Supersonico, Costa Blanca
Tim Palmer, Progress, Kilnsey
Chris Savage, Progress, Kilnsey
Pete Robins, Diamond Dogs, Diamond
Neil Dyer, Megaloupa, LPT
Oli Grounsell , Megaloupa, LPT
Pete Whittaker, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ted Kingsnorth, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ethan Walker, Kaa’bah, Tor
Ellis Butler-Barker, Brian, Anstey’s Cove
Wiz Fineron, Mr Hyde, Ceuse
Alan Cassidy, Metalcore, Anvil
Ben Davison, Eye of Odin, Flatanger
Will Smith, ultimate sacrifice, Gorge du loup

Neil Mawson, Raining Bats and Dogs, 8c/+, Malham
Jon Freeman, Raining Bats and Dogs, 8c/+, Malham

8c
Gordon Lennox, Dracula True Finish, Red Wall Quarry, Aberdeenshire
Ed Hamer, Tiger Cat, Blue Mountains, Australia
Paul Reeve, Cry Freedom, Malham
Robbie Phillips, Especio Tempo, Costa Blanca
Tom Newberry, Deathstar, Cheddar
Tom Randall, Cobra Crack, Squamish
Ben Bransby, The Beast, Diamond
Jon Clark, Mecca Ext, Tor
Matt Donnelly, Mecca Ext, Tor
Stuart Littlefair, Mecca Ext, Tor
Dave McLoughlin, Hajj, Tor
Matt Pickles, True North, Kilnsey
John Maskell, Fisheye, Oliana
Bob Hickish, Endeavor, Dorset
Robin Sutton, True North, Malham
Buster Martin, Bat Route, Malham
Adam Jeeworth, Bat Route, Malham
Richard Waterton, Bat Route, Malham
Adam Harrison, Bat Route, Malham
William Bosi, Transform, Malham
Steve Dunning, Cry of freedom, Malham
Adam Jeffs, Cry of freedom, Malham
Mike Grey, True north, Kilnsey
Rob Napier, Bat Route, Malham
Sam Whittaker, Bat Route, Malham
Aidrian Baxter, Kalandraka, Rodellar
Tim Emmett, Captain America, Chekamus Canyon

Ben West, Helvetia, 8b+/c, Shipwreck Cove
Jim Pope, Helvetia, 8b+/c, Shipwreck Cove

8b+
Dave “Prof” Pickford, Helvetia (LH swerve), 8b+, Shipwreck Cove
Adam Hocking, El Club de la Lucha, Costa Blanca
Neil Gresham, Welcome to Tijuana (LH start), Rodellar
Niall McNair, Mal de Isla, Chulilla
Dave Redpath, Aqua Vitae, Dumbuck
Ali Kennedy, Kalea Borroka, Suirana
Ian MacDonald, T1 Full Equip, Oliana
Gav Symonds, Poppy, Anstey’s Cove
Andre Hedger, Neandertal, Tenerife
Alex Waterhouse, Tuppence Ha'penny, Anstey’s Cove
Pete Dawson, Chimaera, Anstey’s Cove
Bruno Marks, Unjustified, Malham
Dan Walker, Unjustified, Malham
Anthony Ingham, Unjustified, Malham
Arran Deakin, Unjustified, Malham
Eddie Barbour, Transworld Depravity, RRG
Adam Lincoln, Dr Crimp, Kilnsey
Theo Elmer, Mecca, Tor
Will Kelsall, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Ally Smith, Aspid, Spain
Ru Davis, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Haydn Jones, Mecca, Tor
Luke Dawson, Mecca, Tor
Simon Davis, Mecca, Tor
George Carmicheal, Mecca, Tor
Keefe Murphy, El Club de la Lucha, Costa Blanca
Cailean Harker, Poppy, Ansteys
Gavin Symonds, Poppy, Ansteys
Chris Doyle, Raiders of the Dark Ark, Llanddulas Cave
Dave Barrans, Indian Summer, Kilnsey
Mick Bate, Mecca, Tor
Dan Kyte, Mecca, Tor
Ben Heason, 32, Cheedale Cornice
Char Williams, Mecca, Tor
Ned Feehally, Mecca, Tor


Nearly but not quite:
Paul Smitton, Dogs Dinner traverse was just >5years ago.
Stevie Haston, Descente Lolitta, Grotte de Sabat was just >5years ago.
Malc Smith, Hunger, Anvil, was just >5years ago. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=56373  (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=56373)

Unknowns:
Si Moore, Surf Safari, where & when?
Dan Varian, Malcolm X, Cheedale (when in 2010?)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on July 08, 2015, 03:27:00 pm
Least surprising post ever by gme...

This time your wrong. I genuinely thought there would be a lot more. I wasn't making any pretence to the state of British sports climbing (for once) i just assumed that lots more people were climbing that grade. This might answer why it still gets in the news.

My question re cry freedom was just that. I had no idea it had been upgraded.

I like the list, just want it to be right.

 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cha1n on July 08, 2015, 03:39:19 pm
If there's a 'Nearly but not quite' section then Dave Redpath needs to go in for Devastation Generation (8c) which he did in May 2010. Although, not sure if it applies if he's already made it onto the list for an 8b+. :shrug:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: nai on July 08, 2015, 04:56:20 pm
Traverses out otherwise we will have a number of hitherto unknown Longbridge locals getting above their station.

are we about to be inundated with a load of Brummie car makers claiming a place on the list?





Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on July 08, 2015, 05:36:32 pm
Surf Safari is at Mickeys Beach, San Francisco. This year.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 08, 2015, 05:43:06 pm
If there's a 'Nearly but not quite' section then Dave Redpath needs to go in for Devastation Generation (8c) which he did in May 2010. Although, not sure if it applies if he's already made it onto the list for an 8b+. :shrug:

His 8b+ Aqua Vitae is unrepeated, which I think is harsh grounds for exclusion? It gets 8b+ in most recent guide and online.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: T_B on July 08, 2015, 05:44:11 pm
Surf Safari is at Mickeys Beach, San Francisco. This year.

It's 8b isn't it?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Probes on July 08, 2015, 07:22:01 pm


Traverses out otherwise we will have a number of hitherto unknown Longbridge locals getting above their station.

[/quote]

 :lol:

Ill demo the 181 move ultimate uk endurance sport test to you RavonTore locals any day you dare take up the challenge. Above our station pff.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Muenchener on July 08, 2015, 07:39:58 pm
I see on the other channel that Robbie Phillips has done Sibergeier. I know he was already on the list but still, impressive. First ascent of one of the alpine Big Three by a Brit?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on July 08, 2015, 08:03:55 pm
Surf Safari is at Mickeys Beach, San Francisco. This year.

It's 8b isn't it?

Apparently it's a bit of a running joke over there (90s old skool grades). Gets a slash grade in the guide.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Paul B on July 08, 2015, 09:59:29 pm
Ill demo the 181 move ultimate uk endurance sport test to you RavonTore locals any day you dare take up the challenge. Above our station pff.

TBH Probes it's probably better that way before people start taking sport grades for linking non-strict blueband backwards into something at the snor!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on July 08, 2015, 11:56:18 pm
Ill demo the 181 move ultimate uk endurance sport test to you RavonTore locals any day you dare take up the challenge. Above our station pff.

TBH Probes it's probably better that way before people start taking sport grades for linking non-strict blueband backwards into something at the snor!


A shameless attempt to ingratiate yourself with the locals
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ally Smith on July 09, 2015, 01:15:45 pm
A new contender enters the ring:
Rob Mirfin, Leftism, Dinbren.
Yesterday - new route linking Extreme Ways into the headwall of the old/impossible roof project in the centre of the crag - congratulations!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ally Smith on July 09, 2015, 02:18:01 pm
Oops - actually last week.
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy7ThCT_cn4
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: JohnM on July 09, 2015, 02:24:58 pm
Dinbren keeps on giving! 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on July 09, 2015, 08:24:27 pm
Judging by his 8bs there this could be ridiculous.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Luke Owens on July 10, 2015, 12:14:40 pm
It's took him ages to do it so it must be absolutely nails, strong effort!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Nike Air on July 10, 2015, 12:50:02 pm
looks good that. I did wonder what that chalk was a while back.
Nice one Mirf
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: davej on July 10, 2015, 02:23:25 pm
looks good that. I did wonder what that chalk was a while back.
Nice one Mirf
Top effort. :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Out of interest has anyone tried to climb directly over the roof my friend bolted it, rather optimistically it seems about 20 years ago!!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on July 10, 2015, 02:30:53 pm
Not anyone who would have a chance. Pretty nails that thing.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on July 10, 2015, 03:18:07 pm
One to point a passing wad at when they are leaving LPT empty handed.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: slackline on July 16, 2015, 03:57:44 pm
If only there were some software available that allowed a web-page editable by anyone to be created and updated as required for these lists to save reposting a growing list repeatedly.

I've set up the structure and started filling in from the different threads (got work to do so don't have time to do it all now)

UK Cream of the Crop  (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/UK_Cream_of_the_Crop#Sport)

Anyone bothered with copying the rest over and/or updating might find the information on spanning rows in Wikimedia mark-up (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Table#Combined_use_of_COLSPAN_and_ROWSPAN) useful, because without using rowspan for the cells in the grade column its tricky to start a new line within a tables cell for multiple entries within a grade.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 19, 2018, 09:31:46 pm
Is this still being updated? Tried searching for a newer thread but couldn't find one as I'm sure I remember it being added to recently  :-\
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 19, 2018, 10:29:08 pm
Doesn't look like it. I've cleaned up the current list and put it here https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md I've made a couple of updates but it's still pretty out of date.

It's getting quite long so perhaps change it to 8c (or 8c+?) and make it all time to make maintaining it easier?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: turnipturned on August 19, 2018, 10:41:50 pm
J Free has done progress (8c+), just for reference!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 19, 2018, 10:55:18 pm
Doesn't look like it. I've cleaned up the current list and put it here https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md I've made a couple of updates but it's still pretty out of date.

It's getting quite long so perhaps change it to 8c (or 8c+?) and make it all time to make maintaining it easier?

Nice one, it would be good to get this one up and running again. Yeah, change it to 8c I reckon so its manageable and make it all time.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: rosmat on August 20, 2018, 01:38:07 am
Ally Coull - can’t remember the route name

Max Milne - Dracula Direct
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: rosmat on August 20, 2018, 01:43:01 am
Ally Coull was Magnum Opus
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 07:11:57 am
Ok, new rules to keep the list easier to maintain: Needs to be 8c or above and no time limit on ascents.

I've trimmed the 8b+ers, added a few young guns and some old hands. Full change history here https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/commits/master

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: monkoffunk on August 20, 2018, 07:25:21 am
Neil Gresham should be on there right? He had been there as 8b+, but he’s climbed 8c+ now I think
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 07:46:01 am
Right you are, added him back in https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/sabotage_new_malham_8c+_by_neil_gresham-70751

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Steve Crowe on August 20, 2018, 08:07:32 am
Awesome Al is missing.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Duma on August 20, 2018, 08:11:44 am
Neil Carson - Big Bang 1996
Cailean Harker did Joker 8c in Flatanger last week.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:15:08 am
Ok, new rules to keep the list easier to maintain: Needs to be 8c or above and no time limit on ascents.

I've trimmed the 8b+ers, added a few young guns and some old hands. Full change history here https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/commits/master

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

Great work Remus. Can we change the thread title to be 8c and above or start a new thread? (I have tried to edit the title to 8c but it may not work as the thread is old).

Edit: ah, it worked!  :dance1: I'll have a think about the list now...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: moose on August 20, 2018, 08:17:30 am
Steve Dunning is down at 8c for Cry Freedom, hasn't he climbed Hubble?

Without wishing to open a can of worms, Gaskins is down for Hubble rather than Violent New Breed, is that a deliberate omission?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Duma on August 20, 2018, 08:25:04 am
Also if we get a new title/thread, can we use "British" rather than UK? It itches my brain every time I see it.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 08:26:19 am
Neil Carson - Big Bang 1996
Cailean Harker did Joker 8c in Flatanger last week.

Added them.

Quote from: SteveCrowe
Awesome Al is missing.

Who's that Steve? and what's the route in question?

Quote from: moose
Steve Dunning is down at 8c for Cry Freedom, hasn't he climbed Hubble?

Without wishing to open a can of worms, Gaskins is down for Hubble rather than Violent New Breed, is that a deliberate omission?

You're right on Steve, I've bumped him up.

VNB omission wasn't deliberate. I've bumped the g man up for now, let's see if it sticks!

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:26:48 am
Yes, Steve has done Hubble. Jim Pope has climbed Mr Hyde 8c+ at Ceuse this summer so he can be bumped up the list and his easier tick removed.

Yes Gaskins needs to go in at 9a+ for Violent New Breed. However, the route is unrepeated and the grade unconfirmed. It is guidebook convention to put a cross symbol (i.e. not a plus) next to such routes to denote this. Once the route has been repeated and the grade confirmed (or otherwise) then the symbol can be removed. Could this be done?

Also, Ally Smith's new route 'The Pirate' 8c is not yet repeated so the grade is not confirmed - it should properly have a cross symbol as well.

Lastly, the thread title has reverted to 8b+ again. I think mod permission is needed to change it. Either that or we could start a new thread? Its confusing to continue with the 8b+ title...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:36:54 am

Who's that Steve? and what's the route in question?

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

Al from the Lakes climbed Cry Freedom 8c earlier this year (I'm don't know his surname, hopefully somebody can clarify.

Some more additions: Tim Emmett climbed Superman 8c+ at Cheakamus Canyon earlier this year. He can be bumped up
Mark 'Zippy' Pretty did the first ascent of Make it Funky 8c in 93
Ru has done Make it Funky

Fight the Feeling needs a cross symbol as it hasn't had its grade confirmed to my knowledge.

Rainshadow is spelt wrongly a few times. Surely worth an amend!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 20, 2018, 08:42:17 am

Who's that Steve? and what's the route in question?

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

Al from the Lakes climbed Cry Freedom 8c earlier this year (I'm don't know his surname, hopefully somebody can clarify.

Some more additions: Tim Emmett climbed Superman 8c+ at Cheakamus Canyon earlier this year. He can be bumped up
Mark 'Zippy' Pretty did the first ascent of Make it Funky 8c in 93
Ru has done Make it Funky

Fight the Feeling needs a cross symbol as it hasn't had its grade confirmed to my knowledge.

Rainshadow is spelt wrongly a few times. Surely worth an amend!

Al Wilson
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:42:47 am
Nic Sellars has done Evolution 8c+
Tony Mitchell did the FA of True North 8c in 1993.
Richard Waterton has done Raining Bats and Dogs so he can be bumped up and his easier tick removed.

Sabotage 8c+ is unrepeated so should have a cross symbol

That's probably enough for now!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:48:20 am
Chris Doyle did the FA of The Holy Grail 8c at Llandulas Cave 2 years ago, not yet repeated.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:50:19 am
Mark Leach did the FA of Cry Freedom 8c in 1988.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 08:50:33 am
Good Knowledge Ted, thanks! I've added the (x) for first ascents/unconfirmed grades and made the changes you suggested.

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 08:52:42 am
Added Leach and Doyle https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:59:09 am
Looking good. Great work!

One more thing, is it possible to re-order columns 2 and 3 so the name of the route appears first and then the grade following this as it seems to me to be the wrong way around? The emphasis should be on the name of the route and then its grade should come afterwards - this is how it appears in guidebooks anyway. Then the unrepeated symbol could be put after the grade and not the route name (as its only the grade which is not confirmed, not the name). Sorry to be a pedant!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 09:05:36 am
Ellis Butler Barker has climbed Brian 8c+ at Anstey's Cove (his entry is wrong.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 09:06:59 am
One more thing, is it possible to re-order columns 2 and 3 so the name of the route appears first and then the grade following this as it seems to me to be the wrong way around? The emphasis should be on the name of the route and then its grade should come afterwards - this is how it appears in guidebooks anyway. Then the unrepeated symbol could be put after the grade and not the route name (as its only the grade which is not confirmed, not the name). Sorry to be a pedant!

Personally I prefer climber, grade, route as the point of the list is to work out how many people are climbing at a certain level in the UK, the route itself is just a nice little bit of extra info. If there's a strong preference the other way Id be happy to change it though.

Moved the (x) to the grade instead of the route, good suggestion.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 09:09:04 am
Ellis Butler Barker has climbed Brian 8c+ at Anstey's Cove (his entry is wrong.

Done. You're gonna have to slow down, been meaning to make lunch for the last hour!  :lol:

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 09:15:58 am
Nice one, haha, I'm off climbing now, I'll leave you in peace!  ;D
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 20, 2018, 09:17:00 am
Rich heap
Robin barker
John Welford
All make it funky.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 09:31:18 am
Rich heap
Robin barker
John Welford
All make it funky.

Good knowledge, thanks.

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 20, 2018, 09:41:39 am
Rich heap
Robin barker
John Welford
All make it funky.

Does Welford’s The Bastard not get 8c+ now?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: haydn jones on August 20, 2018, 09:45:52 am
A lot of people on there for bat route I see  :worms:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: teestub on August 20, 2018, 10:08:41 am
A lot of people on there for bat route I see

I guess if you're going to break a new grade, it's good to do it on one of the best sport climbs in the country. You could say the same for Rainshadow.

I guess the other choice is queuing for Mecca extensions!!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on August 20, 2018, 10:16:10 am
A lot of people on there for bat route I see  :worms:

If that no longer makes the grade better edit Adam Jeewoth as he's done Raining Bats and Dogs
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Bradders on August 20, 2018, 11:12:34 am
A lot of people on there for bat route I see  :worms:

Similar number on for Make it Funky...just shows how routes come in and out of fashion.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: moose on August 20, 2018, 11:32:26 am
Ian Vickers - at least 8c (sub 2 hr RP campaign of True North!)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Stu Littlefair on August 20, 2018, 12:15:31 pm
M.I.F used to have a much bigger hold on the crux than it currently does, since the edge was improved with some sika that crumbled in later years
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 01:20:47 pm
Thanks for the updates https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: teestub on August 20, 2018, 01:48:03 pm
Speaking of extensions at the Tor - Char Williams - Mecca Extension 2015

Good blog from the time about The Process and The Journey http://themightychickpea.blogspot.com/2016/01/highlights-of-2015-part-iii.html
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 20, 2018, 03:05:17 pm
Speaking of extensions at the Tor - Char Williams - Mecca Extension 2015

Good blog from the time about The Process and The Journey http://themightychickpea.blogspot.com/2016/01/highlights-of-2015-part-iii.html

Brilliant blog!!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2018, 05:13:17 pm
This thread does not resonate with me personally, because it makes me realise what a shit punter I am.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 05:31:25 pm
This thread does not resonate with me personally, because it makes me realise what a shit punter I am.

Tell me about it! 8c just to get in to the top ~100 in british climbing. The future is bleak.

p.s. added Char  https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Will Hunt on August 20, 2018, 05:32:07 pm
Speaking of extensions at the Tor - Char Williams - Mecca Extension 2015

Good blog from the time about The Process and The Journey http://themightychickpea.blogspot.com/2016/01/highlights-of-2015-part-iii.html

It's not hard to see how climbing mags have gone down the pan when there is such incredible writing on offer for free.
Is that Blog in the UKB blog pile?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: rosmat on August 20, 2018, 05:50:21 pm
Max Milne - Dracula True Finish
Ally Coull - Magnum Opus

Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 05:57:37 pm
Max Milne - Dracula True Finish
Ally Coull - Magnum Opus

Thanks, updated https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Steve Crowe on August 20, 2018, 06:08:27 pm
Al Wilson, Cry Freedom
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 06:16:16 pm
Al Wilson, Cry Freedom

Should be on there already.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: petejh on August 20, 2018, 06:29:53 pm
This thread does not resonate with me personally, because it makes me realise what a shit punter I am.

Thought you were going to say because you find the thread patronising..
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Steve Crowe on August 20, 2018, 06:37:30 pm
Sorry!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: CraigMac on August 20, 2018, 06:58:26 pm
Ken Palmer?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: tomtom on August 20, 2018, 07:02:07 pm
This thread does not resonate with me personally, because it makes me realise what a shit punter I am.

Thought you were going to say because you find the thread patronising..

No #mansplaining issues with this thread :D
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 07:13:52 pm
Rich heap
Robin barker
John Welford
All make it funky.

Does Welford’s The Bastard not get 8c+ now?

Yes, according to the latest Peak Lime guide it is 8c+. So Welford can be bumped up the list.

Of course, Ken Palmer should be in for the FA of Brian 8c+

I have an obscure one here. Mark Edwards did a number of hard sport routes at Carn Vellan in the early 90's, most of which have now been debolted. Monster Munch 8b+ is still bolted and I understand has been repeated this summer. Another of Mark's lines is 'Nuts are not the only Fruit 8b+' from 1991, possibly now debolted? Mark was in touch with 8a.nu earlier this year: https://www.8a.nu/forum/editorial/8b+-in-1991-possibly-8c+-9a-2018 (https://www.8a.nu/forum/editorial/8b+-in-1991-possibly-8c+-9a-2018)

He was of the opinion that Nuts would warrant 8c+/9a in today's money, citing grade inflation as the reason. Even if this is wrong, it seems likely that this may have been one of the earlier 8c's in the world. I reckon 'Nuts are not the only Fruit 8b+' should go in at 8c with a double cross symbol to show that its unrepeated and there is a hefty question mark over the grade. What do people reckon. I am fairly certainly this looks harder than Bat Route judging by this video, looks nails!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4PKT5Z4gvI&feature=share (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4PKT5Z4gvI&feature=share)

What a shame the future for sport climbing is uncertain at this stunning crag.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 20, 2018, 07:20:50 pm
Speaking of extensions at the Tor - Char Williams - Mecca Extension 2015

Good blog from the time about The Process and The Journey http://themightychickpea.blogspot.com/2016/01/highlights-of-2015-part-iii.html

It's not hard to see how climbing mags have gone down the pan when there is such incredible writing on offer for free.
Is that Blog in the UKB blog pile?

Forgot how good that is. Nice to read again.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cheque on August 20, 2018, 07:25:01 pm
Will Kelsall did Bat Route in 2015.

(https://chequepictures.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/malham-3.jpg)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 20, 2018, 07:43:41 pm
Added Mark's ascent (along with associated question marks) and the other less controversial ascents. https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 07:52:25 pm
Nice one. Just re-read the 8a.nu piece and Mark says he has done some 8c's in Sella (don't know which ones) which he found easier than Nuts. Dunno whether the easier but confirmed Sella 8c's should be mentioned...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on August 20, 2018, 07:59:20 pm

Another of Mark's lines is 'Nuts are not the only Fruit 8b+' from 1991, possibly now debolted? Mark was in touch with 8a.nu earlier this year: https://www.8a.nu/forum/editorial/8b+-in-1991-possibly-8c+-9a-2018 (https://www.8a.nu/forum/editorial/8b+-in-1991-possibly-8c+-9a-2018)

He was of the opinion that Nuts would warrant 8c+/9a in today's money, citing grade inflation as the reason. Even if this is wrong, it seems likely that this may have been one of the earlier 8c's in the world. I reckon 'Nuts are not the only Fruit 8b+' should go in at 8c with a double cross symbol to show that its unrepeated and there is a hefty question mark over the grade. What do people reckon.

I reckon that if anyone else had written that I'd assume they were taking the piss but that does strike me as the sort of thing you'd do! Obviously I've no idea but the fact he chalks up or clips from every hold makes me question that.

You're correct about it being a shame this crag is not still bolted, someone should judtget on and do it.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:08:14 pm
but that does strike me as the sort of thing you'd do!

Don't you mean 'he'd do?' Just to clarify 8)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ru on August 20, 2018, 08:14:24 pm

He was of the opinion that Nuts would warrant 8c+/9a in today's money, citing grade inflation as the reason. Even if this is wrong, it seems likely that this may have been one of the earlier 8c's in the world. I reckon 'Nuts are not the only Fruit 8b+' should go in at 8c with a double cross symbol to show that its unrepeated and there is a hefty question mark over the grade. What do people reckon. I am fairly certainly this looks harder than Bat Route judging by this video, looks nails!


Here is a quote from Mark from a 2008 thread on the UKClimbing.com forum in which he describes Nuts Are Not the Only Fruit as being 8b, not 8b+, or 8c+/9a. He certainly seems to have had a hard time deciding how hard it is. If it really is 8c+/9a that would make Rewind the hardest trad route in the world at about E13.

" M. Edwards on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to broc:
> (In reply to M. Edwards) Hi Mark, I've just read the article on Javu.co.uk about the bolts at Carn Vellan. Interesting stuff. For those of us who don't know, does Rewind follow one of the older bolted routes as mentioned in the article or is it a different line?

Hi broc, Rewind follows the old "Nuts are not the only fruit" an old 8b direct start to "Blue Sky Lightning" 8a/b. But the two sports routes had a different crux... the crucial hold was missing after the bolt-choppers left the crag. I am not saying they did it, but it was missing. It was a tiny flake within a one finger pocket that you could get a full body length leverage off to reach the mono side pull. Now you have to finger jam and dyno for the mono. If it was bolted it would get harder sports grade than the original. Mark"


Link:https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/e10_aspirations-331442 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/e10_aspirations-331442)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on August 20, 2018, 08:16:07 pm
@kingy - No, I can well believe that ME thinks it should be upgraded, I was surprised at anyone going along with it but I know you to be much too polite to take the piss so I assume you're not! That said if the wall is *really* steep
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:23:16 pm
Interesting post Ru. He can't seem to make up his mind.

Maybe I'm naive but I tend to err on the side of believing what a climber says in general, unless they have been obviously and unequivocably discredited. Which i don't believe is the case with Mark Edwards.

Neil Gresham has supported Mark on Instagram on Franco Cookson's repeat of Academia E10, which he confirmed the grade of. Neil's quote about Mark was:

Well done Franco and what I think about Mark is that he is one of the great characters who got off his arse and did some inspirational routes and that hardly any of the pioneers from that era were whiter than white.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on August 20, 2018, 08:38:27 pm
I'm not hating on the geeze and, obviously, many of his routes are class and hard but I'm just not sure how you can make a judgement like that 15 years later. 8c+ in 1991 was a very big number (second in the uk after Hubble). But in fairness I know nothing so I could be totally wrong (I'd love to be wrong, the folklore of 90's climbing   would be my specialist subject on Mastermind!)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 20, 2018, 08:50:21 pm
Haha, yes that judgement does seem a bit of a stretch. I think what Mark is driving at is that grade inflation has made Nuts equivalent to today's endurance routes graded 8c+/9a, not Hubble, which is essentially an extremely hard boulder route graded 9a in the current Peak Lime Guide. Whether he is correct in this assertion we are not likely to ever know sadly.

Unfortunately, less than clear cut cases like this are out there and I guess its the list maker's job to either include or not include. I am not familar with Sella 8c's. I guess, Nuts aside, whether Mark gets onto the list would depend on whether you believe his assertion in the 8a article that he has done them or not. I suppose we at least need the name of a route for a climber to be included on the list?

Not knowing Mark, I am not in a position to contact him to ask him which 8c's in Sella he did. Does anybody know him on here? I tend to take a climber's word for it, rightly or wrongly, unless they are a Richard Simpson...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 20, 2018, 10:34:37 pm
I always think of the waddage UK level as being 8c+ and 8B. To have done both is more impressive. Think there’s about 25. And 9a and 8B+ is the cream of the crop (5/6?).
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cowboyhat on August 20, 2018, 11:52:53 pm
I always think of the waddage UK level as being 8c+ and 8B. To have done both is more impressive. Think there’s about 25. And 9a and 8B+ is the cream of the crop (5/6?).

Totally agree.


Stu I’ve never heard that about MIF. It’s always bothered me that the few times I’ve been on there it seems so bloody hard and it’s not just me; very few ascents nowadays compared to the seemingly loads the route had in the past. Evolution however hasn’t got harder has it?. Fact is loads of guys were crushing in the 90s long before Tom Randall invented training. As a group we’re relatively shit now.

Not you Stu, obviously.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 21, 2018, 07:28:48 am
Evolution however hasn’t got harder has it?

Ted's got the full knowledge, but I believe at least one of the crux holds is noticeably worse than back in the day.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: 36chambers on August 21, 2018, 08:47:21 am
I always think of the waddage UK level as being 8c+ and 8B. To have done both is more impressive.

Unless the 8B was done at the Tor ;)

As a group we’re relatively shit now.

Surely there are way more people climbing around and above 8c+ or 8B nowadays
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 21, 2018, 08:53:26 am
Evolution however hasn’t got harder has it?

Ted's got the full knowledge, but I believe at least one of the crux holds is noticeably worse than back in the day.

I understand the gaston for the LH on the last move crumbled in 2009 as there are old photos of Malc gastoning it and now it is a very poor hold that you can't use in that way any more (its only poss to use as a poor intermediate). Still this is only on the easier top wall (8b). The meat of the route, i.e the crux over the roof is unchanged.

2 more: Tom Newberry can be bumped up the list, he has climbed Spicy Noodle 8c+ in Yangsho, China

Jacob Cook climbed Revival 8c in Chek Canyon near Squamish earlier this year
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 21, 2018, 09:04:15 am
Bumped newberry and added cook https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: teestub on August 21, 2018, 09:11:59 am

As a group we’re relatively shit now.

Surely there are way more people climbing around and above 8c+ or 8B nowadays

In absolute terms there are certainly more people climbing those grades, but as a percentage of climbers overall? It would be hard to collect any meaningful data but my suspicion would be that the average boulder grade has improved, not so sure about the average sport grade.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on August 21, 2018, 10:52:25 am

I reckon that if anyone else had written that I'd assume they were taking the piss but that does strike me as the sort of thing you'd do!

Sorry Kingy, I've just realised my mistake, that should have said "that *doesn't* strike me as the sort of thing you'd do", no wonder you questioned it and hopefully clear from my later reply. 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 21, 2018, 11:02:02 am
Sorry Kingy, I've just realised my mistake, that should have said "that *doesn't* strike me as the sort of thing you'd do", no wonder you questioned it and hopefully clear from my later reply.

No problemo! What a saga with Carn Vellan etc, I've kind of given up on the whole thing now, life's too short!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 21, 2018, 12:20:18 pm

No problemo! What a saga with Carn Vellan etc, I've kind of given up on the whole thing now, life's too short!

This may not be the right thread for it, and I could probably search for it, but can anyone point me towards a precis of this saga that isn't myopic? I haven't a clue where to start! Thanks
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Will Hunt on August 21, 2018, 12:36:51 pm
I agree with the sentiments above. 8c is a punter's grade. 8c+ is hot now.

I think this is probably why this ladies' thread was deemed patronising by some. 8a, whilst obviously a stellar personal achievement for many, is a bit Mickey Mouse if you're trying to create a list of the very best performers. 8b might be more appropriate? Or 8a+?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: duncan on August 21, 2018, 12:59:26 pm

No problemo! What a saga with Carn Vellan etc, I've kind of given up on the whole thing now, life's too short!

This may not be the right thread for it, and I could probably search for it, but can anyone point me towards a precis of this saga that isn't myopic? I haven't a clue where to start! Thanks

CV saga reported here:
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15682.0.html

Roland and Mark Edwards moved to Cornwall in the early 1980s and Edwards senior sets up a guiding / instruction business there. They set about developing the local cliffs with enthusiasm. Many classic new routes are created but there are also persistent accusations of lying and chipping. Some Edwards routes definitely had their holds enhanced but the Edwards have always denied it was them and the phantom chipper has never been identified. Some notable last great problems on granite are bolted, against the local ethics. Similar stories were still circulating decades later: https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/07/cornish_controversy_-_drilled_cam_slots-56420

All this is background information to the strength of feeling around the Edwards and bolting. It’s fair to say the Edwards were not flavour of the month amongst many other local climbers and this may well have impacted on the response to the bolting of Carn Vellan. Had the area been developed by, say, Ken Palmer, the bolts might well still be there. 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cowboyhat on August 21, 2018, 11:01:30 pm
I always think of the waddage UK level as being 8c+ and 8B. To have done both is more impressive.

Unless the 8B was, did you mean Hubble?

As a group we’re relatively shit now.

Surely there are way more people climbing around and above 8c+ or 8B nowadays

Yes of course it’s just something I like saying. Twenty five years ago a few guys really punched above their weight, but they had a narrower focus.

The crucial thing is development. In 1990 if you wanted to climb 8c+ and Font 8b you had... Hubble. A few years later Jerry does Evo which is a relative power endurance path. Within a couple of years everyone capable of working that grade but not a weird minging boulder problem had done it, because it was the only other route Of that difficulty. The only 8c at the Tor was Make it Funky, so the guys below them worked that route. No decisions. Similar story in Yorkshire and Wales, with even smaller groups. And the same strong few travelling to repeat what was there.

Stubbs makes a good point about the stats.

Whatever the answer Evolution is really fucking hard, and that’s that.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cowboyhat on August 21, 2018, 11:15:29 pm
Btw looking at the list; Robins has done loads of 8c+s, not just his own unrepeated route that is listed. The asterisk misrepresents his achievements.

Maybe a number or something to denote how prolific they are? Ted, Jim Pope have also done several 8c+s for example. Solid at the grade. Oh hang on, will bosi is the only person credited with two routes. And who’s this guy McClure ‘claiming’ a 9b?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 21, 2018, 11:41:48 pm
Btw looking at the list; Robins has done loads of 8c+s, not just his own unrepeated route that is listed. The asterisk misrepresents his achievements.

Maybe a number or something to denote how prolific they are? Ted, Jim Pope have also done several 8c+s for example. Solid at the grade. Oh hang on, will bosi is the only person credited with two routes. And who’s this guy McClure ‘claiming’ a 9b?

Fair point. I think adding a couple of routes to denotes people who are 'solid' at a grade is a decent shout.

Re steve Mac, I think the fa marker is pretty appropriate here. Not that I personally have any doubt about the grade, but it is the tradition that grades are based on concensus so a route with no concensus is more of an unknown than one with a lot of ascents.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 22, 2018, 07:00:00 am
Robins climbed 8c+ and 8B every year from 2009-2014 before his motivation for redpointing started to wane and his Mrs started making him go to more dinner parties. Shame there’s not a nice convenient 9a for him to go at in Wales.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 22, 2018, 08:53:59 am
Added multiple routes for a few people, more suggestions welcome. Also added a few notes https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 22, 2018, 09:14:19 am
Pedantic but it’s Megalopa not Megaloupa.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 22, 2018, 09:17:34 am
Good to add some clarity with a few notes/ additional routes etc Remus. I guess making the list comprehensive would be too big an undertaking. I'm personally not keen on the idea. I mean how many 8c's has McClure done? He says in his autobiography that he has lapped Mecca Extension 50 times!  :lol:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 22, 2018, 09:29:31 am
Robins climbed 8c+ and 8B every year from 2009-2014 before his motivation for redpointing started to wane and his Mrs started making him go to more dinner parties. Shame there’s not a nice convenient 9a for him to go at in Wales.

As a non-resident of North Wales I have been consistently in awe of Robins since I started climbing. One of the best all round climbers the UK has ever had probably. E9, 8c+ (x lots), and 8B? Good effort.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 22, 2018, 09:42:36 am
Robins climbed 8c+ and 8B every year from 2009-2014 before his motivation for redpointing started to wane and his Mrs started making him go to more dinner parties. Shame there’s not a nice convenient 9a for him to go at in Wales.

As a non-resident of North Wales I have been consistently in awe of Robins since I started climbing. One of the best all round climbers the UK has ever had probably. E9, 8c+ (x lots), and 8B? Good effort.

And he has a proper job.   :-*
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Muenchener on August 22, 2018, 09:45:26 am
Re steve Mac, I think the fa marker is pretty appropriate here. Not that I personally have any doubt about the grade, but it is the tradition that grades are based on concensus so a route with no concensus is more of an unknown than one with a lot of ascents.

True in general, but in this case I think "not pathed by Adam Ondra" is a reasonably strong piece of evidence.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 22, 2018, 09:47:20 am
And 125 days Vs 40 days for a hard 9a+. Not really in doubt is it.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 22, 2018, 09:50:52 am
Robins climbed 8c+ and 8B every year from 2009-2014 before his motivation for redpointing started to wane and his Mrs started making him go to more dinner parties. Shame there’s not a nice convenient 9a for him to go at in Wales.

As a non-resident of North Wales I have been consistently in awe of Robins since I started climbing. One of the best all round climbers the UK has ever had probably. E9, 8c+ (x lots), and 8B? Good effort.

And he has a proper job.   :-*

Bollocks, no excuse. Better get down the wall.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: geoffg on August 22, 2018, 09:55:28 am
Bumped into James Ibbertson yesterday. Apparently Josh (14) has done 8c+ and Jack (12) has done 8b+ during their euro trip of the last year. Amazing...
No idea what routes they were
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 22, 2018, 10:57:46 am
Pedantic but it’s Megalopa not Megaloupa.

It's pedantry that's required! Also added Josh Ibbertson, any details about the route would be mega if anyone is in the know? https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

Good to add some clarity with a few notes/ additional routes etc Remus. I guess making the list comprehensive would be too big an undertaking. I'm personally not keen on the idea. I mean how many 8c's has McClure done? He says in his autobiography that he has lapped Mecca Extension 50 times!  :lol:


Yeah, comprehensive in names rather than ascents is enough of a goal I reckon!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 22, 2018, 11:05:56 am
Bumped into James Ibbertson yesterday. Apparently Josh (14) has done 8c+ and Jack (12) has done 8b+ during their euro trip of the last year. Amazing...
No idea what routes they were

!!!!! Christ
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ged on August 22, 2018, 11:32:33 am
Bloody hell that's some going by the Ibbotson boys.  8c+ at 14, that must be reasonably significant on a global scale.  I bumped into those lot at Montsant at the end of 2014, and they were doing 7a/7c+ respectively I think.  That's some decent progress!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 22, 2018, 12:22:39 pm
Caff wrote a good blog about running into the Ibbertsons in Oliana. Might be some route details on there. Absolute beasts the pair of them.

Met them in Ceuse and they were really great lads as well. Sounds like an amazing year away.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ru on August 22, 2018, 05:29:12 pm
Make it Funky and Evolution:

Make it Funky had a sika'd on edge on the crux when it was first done, apparently, which made it a bit easier. I don't know how many of the early slew of ascents used the sika'd hold in the mid 90's, but it was gone by the early 2000s and was gone when I did it in 2002. It's not changed since then.

Evolution was originally graded 8c+, downgraded possibly by Sellars or possibly after Steve McClure did it as his 4th or 5th grade 8 (or something like that). It was always 8c+. There was a sika'd hold at the top that has crumbled away (I think it was not sika but car body filler putty or similar). This has left a smaller hold, but has not significantly affected the difficulty and not bumped it up a grade.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 22, 2018, 05:35:25 pm
Bloody hell that's some going by the Ibbotson boys.  8c+ at 14, that must be reasonably significant on a global scale.  I bumped into those lot at Montsant at the end of 2014, and they were doing 7a/7c+ respectively I think.  That's some decent progress!

Well Ondra did 9a at 13 so it ain’t bad going!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 22, 2018, 05:37:30 pm
Make it Funky and Evolution:

Make it Funky had a sika'd on edge on the crux when it was first done, apparently, which made it a bit easier. I don't know how many of the early slew of ascents used the sika'd hold in the mid 90's, but it was gone by the early 2000s and was gone when I did it in 2002. It's not changed since then.

Evolution was originally graded 8c+, downgraded possibly by Sellars or possibly after Steve McClure did it as his 4th or 5th grade 8 (or something like that). It was always 8c+. There was a sika'd hold at the top that has crumbled away (I think it was not sika but car body filler putty or similar). This has left a smaller hold, but has not significantly affected the difficulty and not bumped it up a grade.

Sellars I think. He did it fairly quick and reckoned Liquid Ambar was much harder (didn’t do that). Evolution fitted him well I think.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 22, 2018, 06:02:54 pm
I think Nic did it in 6 ish days at a time when he had already put a lot into what became progress after Jerry stole it.

There was a little bit of niggle going on but i think he genuinely thought it was easier than LA and progress so 8c it was.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Wood FT on August 22, 2018, 06:18:56 pm
Speaking of extensions at the Tor - Char Williams - Mecca Extension 2015

Good blog from the time about The Process and The Journey http://themightychickpea.blogspot.com/2016/01/highlights-of-2015-part-iii.html

It's not hard to see how climbing mags have gone down the pan when there is such incredible writing on offer for free.
Is that Blog in the UKB blog pile?

Forgot how good that is. Nice to read again.

+1, please get another project on the go
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: JohnM on August 22, 2018, 09:46:14 pm
I think Eddie Barbour needs to be added to the list. He climbed an 8c called China Beach in Rumney.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYP36dGQq-Q
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 23, 2018, 09:51:46 am
I think Eddie Barbour needs to be added to the list. He climbed an 8c called China Beach in Rumney.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYP36dGQq-Q

DOne https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: JohnM on August 23, 2018, 11:49:32 am
So it seems around a 100 or so people have climbed 8c and above in the UK. It would be interesting to know if that was relatively good or bad as a proportion of the climbing population. 8a.nu recently predicted that 2572 people have climbed 8c and above globally (https://www.8a.nu/forum/editorial/how-many-have-done-8a-and-harder). Therefore, we (the UK) represent 3.88%. I wonder if the number of people per climbing population is significantly higher in other countries. I would assume it would be in say Austria and Slovenia and possibly even in Germany, France, Spain and Italy too but it is hard to know for sure.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 23, 2018, 07:15:41 pm
Interesting stats John! I reckon 3.88% of the world's 8c climbers ain't bad for our tiny island. Especially when you factor in our rain soaked crags, hard grades etc... I have no idea how this stacks up against other countries but would tend to agree Slovenia and Spain are probably in a different league!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cowboyhat on August 23, 2018, 11:14:30 pm
As Robins once put it to me ‘there are only four crags in the uk with hard routes on; two are south facing, one seeps badly and the other is a sea cliff’

A counter argument is population within proximity of said hard routes. Id guess that more climbers here live within an hours drive than in most countries.

Though it probably levels out with out with the distractions caused here by gritstone and the like.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 24, 2018, 07:24:19 am
Quite hard work isn’t it.  Malham and the Tor often too hot in summer. Kilnsey often seems a nightmare, getting close to something then a couple of days rain and it’s wet. The Diamond and Pigeons are a nightmare and LPT’s tidal and not good in a hot summer either.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 24, 2018, 08:22:54 am
We may as well all go surfing instead!  :P
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 24, 2018, 08:37:23 am
Re openeing a whole other topic again now but I dont get that argument at all. Also think the cut off should be 9a now. *c is piss in the grand scheme of things.

To counter the "its because we dont have any routes in the UK" excuses just look at the list of 9as done by Americans. In total around 200 routes of that grade climbed and 123 are in Europe. Add that fact that to get to a lot of the crags in the US they have to travel greater distances than we would to get anywhere in Europe makes us look even more like we are moaning. 

Yes Sharma has moved to Spain which tips the figures a bit but he wasnt living there at first and Tom Bolger does the uk ones as well.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 24, 2018, 08:53:05 am
I agree, we could do better. 8c's get onsighted quite often these days. Ondra even admits in a recent Black Diamond video 'It is even possible to fall on 8c!'  :lol:

Unfortunately, the stronger climbers seem to go away over the summer to France/ Spain so the hard UK sport routes don't get much attention as the most able are elsewhere. E.g. Northern Lights is not getting widespread attention. Kilnsey is quiet June - August. Rainshadow gets a lot of attention in the spring then that seems it for the year.

Could a mod maybe split this off into a separate topic?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 24, 2018, 02:08:39 pm
The yanks seem to have more trust funds.  :P
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 24, 2018, 03:57:58 pm
Also think the cut off should be 9a now. *c is piss in the grand scheme of things.

As George Orwell said -‘ all 8cs are piss but some are more piss than others. ‘
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 24, 2018, 05:17:33 pm
 Once a grade is onsighted or climbed by a 50 year old it can no longer be thought of as hard.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 24, 2018, 05:23:08 pm
Best start the list at 9a+ then. Gonna be a short one .
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 24, 2018, 05:27:02 pm
Makes Remus job easier I guess.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 24, 2018, 05:29:23 pm
I only suggested 9a to save our country’s embarrassment.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cowboyhat on August 24, 2018, 10:14:42 pm
You’re right, but what difference does it make whether Britannia Rules the waves?

Remus likes a list. I haven’t seen anywhere mention of it being compared to anything else?

Did anyone ever, when climbing their hardest route, exclaim KING AND COUNTRY! TAKE THAT YOU FRENCH FROGGY BASTARDS
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: monkoffunk on August 24, 2018, 10:22:31 pm
Jerry?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cowboyhat on August 24, 2018, 10:39:55 pm
Yeah must have been pretty intoxicating to hang around with him when he was the best.


Off topic but IiRC Aidan Roberts repeated one of those 8c/8c+ things of Greshams that goes through the roof at Kilnsey. Info on the internet.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 24, 2018, 10:49:17 pm
It doesn’t say list of world class sport ascents in the thread title ?  :shrug: Just a bit of interest to geeks isn’t it.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cowboyhat on August 24, 2018, 10:58:33 pm
It doesn’t say list of world class sport ascents in the thread title ?  :shrug: Just a bit of interest to geeks isn’t it.

Does it? I thought it was uk men who have recently x and on github it says strongpeople

Apologies if I’ve missed something but I hadn’t seen the list as any sort of comparison. Certainly not some royal we, look at me, fuck off you French froggy bastards. Etc.

Having said that. I still agree that if one were to make a list of things that might be considered hard, even domestically, then it should start at 8c+.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cowboyhat on August 24, 2018, 11:02:37 pm
Sorry Doyle arguing with myself here. I miss read your comment and etc. I prostrate myself etc.

I’ll give it a rest for a while.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 24, 2018, 11:05:44 pm
Get yourself to bed fella  :lets_do_it_wild:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: user deactivated on August 24, 2018, 11:07:44 pm

Did anyone ever, when climbing their hardest route, exclaim KING AND COUNTRY! TAKE THAT YOU FRENCH FROGGY BASTARDS

Agincourt and the Maginot Line?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: kingholmesy on August 24, 2018, 11:18:48 pm
... or rather Ben - I’d always assumed that was basically what he was saying when he named Agincourt.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 25, 2018, 08:27:24 am
Yes, that's another one for the list. Aiden Roberts made the 2nd ascent of Freakshow 8c at Kilnsey 3 years ago before he became a bouldering beast. Any more out there?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 25, 2018, 08:30:38 am
FFS I don't think Paul Smitton is on there! Add him in with the 2nd ascent of Kaabah 8c+ (amongst other hard ticks)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 25, 2018, 09:28:00 am


Did anyone ever, when climbing their hardest route, exclaim KING AND COUNTRY! TAKE THAT YOU FRENCH FROGGY BASTARDS

I knew someone would bite. I will put you down for one of my limited edition Union Jack bouldering pads.
British made of course, non of the EU shite.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: user deactivated on August 25, 2018, 10:46:09 am
Doh. I did wonder....  :spank:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: JohnM on August 25, 2018, 06:02:42 pm
I don't know if it has held it's grade but Mac (I don't know his full name) did T1 Full Equip at Oliana I think.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: tim palmer on August 25, 2018, 11:10:25 pm
Yes, that's another one for the list. Aiden Roberts made the 2nd ascent of Freakshow 8c at Kilnsey 3 years ago before he became a bouldering beast. Any more out there?

Third ascent after barrows i think
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 26, 2018, 07:51:39 am

Did anyone ever, when climbing their hardest route, exclaim KING AND COUNTRY! TAKE THAT YOU FRENCH FROGGY BASTARDS

Agincourt and the Maginot Line?

 Not Maginot Line. He said ‘See ya’ and threw his chalk bag onto the ground.

Embarrassing little Englander tone to some comments here.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 26, 2018, 10:37:43 am
Patronising thread. Log pile.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 28, 2018, 08:58:53 am
A few new additions to the fold of https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: ali k on August 29, 2018, 08:12:48 am
Remus - just to add clarity to the Helvetia grade (sorry Ben!). It’s 8b+ as of right now, and none of the holds that were ‘added’ for subsequent ascents (by enthusiastic cleaning/digging out) are left. Stuff has come and gone over the years, and I have no idea which of the ‘added’ holds were used by other people at various times, but as of now I’m pretty confident that it’s essentially the same route as when it was first climbed, and it’s not 8c. Besides, Steve McClure apparently repeated it a much harder direct way at the crux and thought it 8b+ still.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 29, 2018, 09:15:18 am
Good clarification, thanks Ali. I've moved Ben off the list, however fine an addition Helvetia may be! https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: BenF on August 29, 2018, 11:02:58 am
FYI. The guy referred to as 'Mac', who climbed T1 Full Equip at Oliana, is Ian MacDonald. Originally of Chorley, now a long time resident of Margalef.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 29, 2018, 11:28:57 am
Thanks Ben, updated. https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: ali k on August 29, 2018, 02:43:13 pm
Also, I think Charlie Woodburn has done Bat Route.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 30, 2018, 12:53:41 pm
Also, I think Charlie Woodburn has done Bat Route.

He has.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 30, 2018, 01:56:52 pm
Cool, he's added https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 30, 2018, 02:08:00 pm
The list is missing a BIG name. 8c repeats and 8c+/9a 1st ascents.

I thought others would have suggested it by now.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy_e on August 30, 2018, 02:13:53 pm
Oh yeah, Si O'Conor?!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 30, 2018, 02:16:55 pm
No. Totally legit big player that i cant believe no one has thought of.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 30, 2018, 02:26:36 pm
Recent or back in the day?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ballsofcottonwool on August 30, 2018, 02:33:08 pm
John Dunne
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 30, 2018, 02:39:06 pm
John Dunne

Of course! https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 30, 2018, 02:53:33 pm
The big man himself. Really surprised no one pointed it out earlier.

No confirmed grade for total eclipse but suggested 8c+ but he also did the 3rd ascent of cry freedom (if thats 8c) and i believe an 8c+ in el chorro, again no conformation of this.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 30, 2018, 09:05:48 pm
Haha, how could we miss Mr Dunne! Here is an article on Ondra's thoughts on Total Eclipse from his try in the wet in 2011 (he couldn't RP it due to the wetness but got through the crux I believe).

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/06/ondra_speaks_on_total_eclipse-62560 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/06/ondra_speaks_on_total_eclipse-62560)

I have been to the sector at El Chorro (in the lower Gorge off the walkway) where Hari Kiri 8c+ is, John's magnum opus from 1994. He put a lot of effort into this I believe (it adds an 8a+ extension onto an existing 8c done by Bernabe Fernandez back in 1992) and it may have had a bolt on hold at one stage if memory serves? Anybody got the knowledge on this?
 Just googled the route and this website from 2006 confirms that it had not been repeated back then - some interesting info on the route as well. http://www.chockstone.org/forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=37937&Replies=7 (http://www.chockstone.org/forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=37937&Replies=7)

The sector is now sadly banned in effect due to the commercialization of the walkway, although that didn't stop us getting a cheeky RP in of Musas Inquietantas, the classic 8a wall climb just opposite Hari Kiri, on New Year's Day when the guards were away.  :dance1:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 30, 2018, 09:21:58 pm
Excellent knowledge as per usual Ted. I've bumped John up to 8c+/9a based on Ondra's comments https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: 36chambers on August 31, 2018, 08:16:14 am
Did Dave Birkett do any sport climbing?   
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 31, 2018, 08:51:17 am
I know he did 'Cover to Cover' 8b at Malham and that he was on Unjustified 8b+ years ago. Wouldn't surprise me if he had done it and not told anybody... :lol: I wouldn't bat an eyelid either if he had done an 8c either
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 31, 2018, 09:10:12 am
Interesting that Ondra thought Bat Route harder than Unjustified. Is there any consensus on what grade Unjustified is now? Several people seem to think its harder than Bat Route, in direct contrast to Ondra and indeed to Ted.

Idly discussed Total Eclipse on the catwalk the other day. Someone get on it! Ditto the original finish to Totally Free...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 31, 2018, 09:23:35 am
Unjustified took a lot of flack for being a soft 8c about 7 or 8 years ago. I've heard it said at the crag that some people think it harder than Bat Route due to there being a relative lack of rest. I personally found Unjustified to be easier than Bat Route as the crux was a fair bit easier. (V6 as opposed to the V8 of Bat Route). Also there is more harder climbing higher up on Bat Route. However, maybe consensus is changing? It certainly hasn't had many repeats recently....and since going down to 8b+  :devil-smiley:

Unjustified is now climbed looping out right hence the downgrade as it was 8c going direct on the FA from Tony Mitchell (must have been a hard move this way). The controversy was that ppl still took 8c for it even though they were not going direct.

Every year people mention Total Eclipse and the original finish to TF. It would be great to try these things. However, getting a belayer on the upper tier is not trivial and there are plenty of other classics that seem to occupy people's time. I know Jim Pope and Will Bosi tried Total Eclipse a few years back and posted up this vid of the crux moves. I hope this works. If not its on Faceache...

https://www.facebook.com/william.bosi.3/videos/961728413926449/ (https://www.facebook.com/william.bosi.3/videos/961728413926449/)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on August 31, 2018, 09:38:14 am
It would be great to see this repeated after all the controversy around the 1st ascent. It looks to be a classic and needs some attention. Sounds like John was spot on with his grade.

There is another route at kilnsey of steves that also needs a repeat, comes out left from true north. As well as the obvious old routes of mutation and violent new breed.

There are a few old projects about from the 90s as well that i dont think have been tried in years. Magnetic extension at malham, the wall to the left of nemesis on the cornice and one that Ben bolted in doveholes.

Oh and Brandenburg gate.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 31, 2018, 10:49:44 am
Unjustified took a lot of flack for being a soft 8c about 7 or 8 years ago. I've heard it said at the crag that some people think it harder than Bat Route due to there being a relative lack of rest. I personally found Unjustified to be easier than Bat Route as the crux was a fair bit easier. (V6 as opposed to the V8 of Bat Route). Also there is more harder climbing higher up on Bat Route. However, maybe consensus is changing? It certainly hasn't had many repeats recently....and since going down to 8b+  :devil-smiley:

Unjustified is now climbed looping out right hence the downgrade as it was 8c going direct on the FA from Tony Mitchell (must have been a hard move this way). The controversy was that ppl still took 8c for it even though they were not going direct.

Every year people mention Total Eclipse and the original finish to TF. It would be great to try these things. However, getting a belayer on the upper tier is not trivial and there are plenty of other classics that seem to occupy people's time. I know Jim Pope and Will Bosi tried Total Eclipse a few years back and posted up this vid of the crux moves. I hope this works. If not its on Faceache...

https://www.facebook.com/william.bosi.3/videos/961728413926449/ (https://www.facebook.com/william.bosi.3/videos/961728413926449/)

I think people seem to think its 8c whether you loop right or not! But I'm obviously only going on hearsay since I have never pulled on either! I remember an interview when Twyford did it (which sparked the downgrade from memory...) saying that she couldn't touch the boulder problem for ages and she normally flashes V6's and did V8's second go, or words to that effect. Is it possible that the Catwalk "8c's" of Cry Freedom, Bat Route and Unjustified are all just in the lower half of the grade?

If Jim Pope can get Total Eclipse done reach is obviously not the issue!

Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 31, 2018, 10:50:12 am

Unjustified took a lot of flack for being a soft 8c about 7 or 8 years ago. I've heard it said at the crag that some people think it harder than Bat Route due to there being a relative lack of rest. I personally found Unjustified to be easier than Bat Route as the crux was a fair bit easier. (V6 as opposed to the V8 of Bat Route). Also there is more harder climbing higher up on Bat Route. However, maybe consensus is changing? It certainly hasn't had many repeats recently....and since going down to 8b+  :devil-smiley:

Unjustified is now climbed looping out right hence the downgrade as it was 8c going direct on the FA from Tony Mitchell (must have been a hard move this way). The controversy was that ppl still took 8c for it even though they were not going direct.

Every year people mention Total Eclipse and the original finish to TF. It would be great to try these things. However, getting a belayer on the upper tier is not trivial and there are plenty of other classics that seem to occupy people's time. I know Jim Pope and Will Bosi tried Total Eclipse a few years back and posted up this vid of the crux moves. I hope this works. If not its on Faceache...

https://www.facebook.com/william.bosi.3/videos/961728413926449/ (https://www.facebook.com/william.bosi.3/videos/961728413926449/)

I think people seem to think its 8c whether you loop right or not! But I'm obviously only going on hearsay since I have never pulled on either! I remember an interview when Twyford did it (which sparked the downgrade from memory...) saying that she couldn't touch the boulder problem for ages and she normally flashes V6's and did V8's second go, or words to that effect. Is it possible that the Catwalk "8c's" of Cry Freedom, Bat Route and Unjustified are all just in the lower half of the grade?

If Jim Pope gets Total Eclipse done down the line reach is obviously not the issue!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on August 31, 2018, 11:10:50 am
The grade of Unjustified has been disputed for years - see this thread: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14812.msg273436.html#msg273436

The crux of Bat Route is certainly harder than the crux of Unjustified IMO, whatever V grade it is.

There is certainly a case for lumping all of the Malham 8b+/8c's together as either soft 8c or hard 8b+. Considering Cry Freedom, Unjustified and Bat Route there is not much between them. There are no easy answers.

Of the routes I have done at the cove, Something for Nothing is considerably harder and knocking on the door of 8c+.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: JohnM on August 31, 2018, 11:46:19 am
FWIW I had a play on Total Eclipse a couple of years ago. The crux is really morpho, but it is just a boulder problem in the sky as you go into it straight from a standing rest. I could physically span the move but not actually link it as I was too stretched. It felt like it would be about V9 to me if I could connect the hold. I am not sure how hard it is to the top from there as it was soaked and covered in gunk but I guess it would have to be quite hard/sustained to warrant a grade of 9a. 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on August 31, 2018, 05:43:09 pm
Adam Hocking. Something in Spain years ago.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Serpico on September 01, 2018, 09:53:26 am
Re Unjustified, didn't Caff think it was 8b? When Nic originally did it with the glued on hold he gave it 8b+, and he finished up the pitch above (now called Overjustified).
It's not a hard 8b+ the way it's currently climbed and it's only getting easier as the belay gets lower and lower and the final tricky moves are missed.
It's telling that it's easily one of the best routes in Yorkshire and yet the queues have disappeared off it since it was downgraded.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on September 01, 2018, 11:13:20 am
When Alan Cassidy did Unjustified in April 2011 he said this about it on his blog:

Quote
"Because a route is popular does not necessarily mean it is over graded. It is a real shame that people's hard work and achievements are stripped of them because they are not perceived of as being among the "strong". It is this very attitude of giving hard routes too much respect that holds the general level back in this country. I think that on the continent people are more inclined to try harder routes, whether they are a "somebody" or a "nobody" and this drags the whole community along."

Yet a few months later after doing True North:

Quote
"...I knew at the time I did it that it all went too easy to be 8c given my form at the time and True North, by no means a hard 8c confirms it; Unjustified is a good grade easier.  If Cry Freedom remains at 8b+ then even that grade may seem a bit much.

 :lol:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on September 01, 2018, 11:32:00 am

It's telling that it's easily one of the best routes in Yorkshire and yet the queues have disappeared off it since it was downgraded.

There is competition from Bat Route now which admittedly gets the higher grade but I suggest the greater attention is it is an obviously better and more compelling line at a similar level. Also it’s now not got the mystique and doubts of missing holds etc that it had before. My armchair assumption is that Bat Route is 8b+. Hope so anyway as if the Oak goes it would be my choice over Unoverjustified or whatever it’s called ;-)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on September 01, 2018, 12:18:45 pm
Why would you put all that effort in to do a nails 8b+ when you can get a 8c tick 10 routes to the left with the same effort ?  :shrug:
Grade mercenaries.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on September 01, 2018, 05:54:40 pm
Alan Cassidy’s comment re unjustified from 8a.whatever

My first UK '8c'. Now I don't want to hear about how soft Spain is ever again.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ru on September 02, 2018, 07:55:10 am
The malham routes should just be given 8b+\c. I don't understand the problem with split grades where they work.

Did Dave Birkett do any sport climbing?

Dave Birkett has done 8b+ at least. There’s an 8b+ of his in Cathedral quarry called Caveman. I think that one of his trad routes is also 8b+, the one with the pinky mono move.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cowboyhat on September 02, 2018, 10:28:27 pm
Rich Simpson. He may not have done this or that but someone must have seen him climb something above 8c at least once.

A Muerte?

Chris Doyle you were with him in Frankenjura when he did or didn’t do Action Direct. Did he do anything else?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on September 02, 2018, 10:39:00 pm
Not when i was there. Filmed him doing moves on a 8c+ and doing a 8b. Did Unplugged 9a after I left with Unclesomebody.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: abarro81 on September 03, 2018, 09:23:47 am
There is another route at kilnsey of steves that also needs a repeat, comes out left from true north. As well as the obvious old routes of mutation and violent new breed.


The Kilnsey route is Magnetic North, and may not really exist anymore without manufacturing or being much harder... It has/had a bunch of flakey holds on - Gaz P apparently pulled some off; I had a quick look a few years back, ripped off some stuff and binned it. Suspect it would need some sika to make it exist, and permission for some manufacturing. Or to be cleaned hard and end up a 9a/+ or something...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on September 03, 2018, 11:34:56 am
Surely the latter.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 11, 2018, 03:03:54 pm
Added the other half of the Freeman brothers for his recent ascent of Aladdin.

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ged on September 12, 2018, 09:44:11 am
Are we still on 8b+ with this thread?

If so, Ali Kennedy (kalea borroka and Helvetia), Alexis Perry (Tuppence Ha'penny)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 12, 2018, 11:43:23 am
Bumped it up to 8c because there was too many at 8b+. Alexis is already on there for Death Star, though with a question mark because it's pretty eliminate.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on September 12, 2018, 07:23:29 pm
To avoid confusion, it might be worth a mod changing the thread title from 8b+ to 8c? Just a thought
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Serpico on September 13, 2018, 02:10:06 pm
To avoid confusion, it might be worth a mod changing the thread title from 8b+ to 8c?

Is nothing safe from upgrading now?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: monkoffunk on September 26, 2018, 07:52:19 pm
New for the list I think:

Jerome Mowat - Cry Freedom

https://www.instagram.com/p/BoMpYs7DB7E/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 26, 2018, 08:41:52 pm
Always good to see an new entrant on the list https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on October 01, 2018, 08:25:31 pm
Drew Haigh, Cry Freedom
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on October 01, 2018, 09:25:59 pm
That's reminded me, Bruno Marks did True North and I can't seem to see him. Sorry, I looked at updating the table myself but think it needs a GitHub account?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on October 01, 2018, 09:44:21 pm
AFAIK he didn't do it. I spoke to him at the crag last year or the year before I think about him getting back on it in the future to get it ticked.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on October 01, 2018, 11:15:52 pm
Added Drew but have left Bruno off for the moment https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on October 22, 2018, 07:49:42 pm
Was chatting with Ian at the weekend and he mentioned he'd done deathstar with the same sequence as the FA https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: tim palmer on October 22, 2018, 10:39:43 pm
That's reminded me, Bruno Marks did True North and I can't seem to see him. Sorry, I looked at updating the table myself but think it needs a GitHub account?
He did unjustified but not true north i think. 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on October 23, 2018, 07:56:27 am
Thanks, good knowledge https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on October 30, 2018, 10:28:50 am
Ed Mowbray nipped up Mecca Extension at the weekend. Apologies if I've spelt the name wrong.

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on November 19, 2018, 01:20:30 pm
Ollie Torr joined the Mecca Extension crew on wednesday https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Duma on April 08, 2019, 09:57:42 am
just copying it here to prod remus...



A video of Alex doing the Fly on instaspam here.. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvzdq2DBR1_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Bradders on April 08, 2019, 11:08:16 am
Are you even British anymore if you say "fall" instead of "Autumn" though?  ;)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy popp on April 08, 2019, 11:29:18 am
Pedant's corner: autumn is older but fall also originated in Britain, from where it was transplanted to America.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on April 08, 2019, 11:32:28 am
just copying it here to prod remus...



A video of Alex doing the Fly on instaspam here.. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvzdq2DBR1_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link


Thanks for the nudge Duma, Im getting slack! https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: jwi on April 08, 2019, 11:43:35 am
Pedant's corner: autumn is older but fall also originated in Britain, from where it was transplanted to America.

Automne surely originated in France, from the deity.

Pet peeve: it should be harvest/hærfest in English, like in German, Swedish, Norwegian, Dutch, etc...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy popp on April 08, 2019, 11:54:48 am
Pedant's corner: autumn is older but fall also originated in Britain, from where it was transplanted to America.

Automne surely originated in France, from the deity.

Pet peeve: it should be harvest/hærfest in English, like in German, Swedish, Norwegian, Dutch, etc...

You're probably right; I was just thinking of the Anglo-US context and, in particular, that fall is not uniquely American.

Merriam-Webster claims autumn was adopted from around 1300, replacing harvest.

ps. I haven't climbed 8b+
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Bradders on April 17, 2019, 03:27:00 pm
Noticed a new addition; Mat Wright for Make it Funky:

https://youtu.be/BSSBRbUsBNo
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on April 17, 2019, 06:33:42 pm
Ooh good spot https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on April 26, 2019, 08:49:01 am
A new one for the list; Matt Cooke did Cry Freedom yesterday.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on April 26, 2019, 09:53:04 pm
Thanks for the update https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on April 27, 2019, 06:26:11 am
Joel Mitchell has gone through and added dates for most of the harder ascents on the list. Top work!

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: jamesturnbull97 on April 27, 2019, 07:15:15 pm
Can I do a shameless plug and upgrade myself for Raining Bats and Dogs  :whistle:
And good effort Matt!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on April 27, 2019, 09:21:46 pm
Great list guys, keep up the good work. Can I just make a small correction for historical accuracy for the intial grade of Total Eclipse, John Dunne's unrepeated super route from 95 on the Upper Tier at Malham. I have re-read Rock Notes from my copy of August 1995's High Magazine reporting the ascent and it is said that it was given a 'tentative 9a rating' by John, so was not initially graded 8c+, as it stated in the entry, see the end of page 1 (here is scan of the 2 pages for all the info). Hopefully one day we will know the true grade when it gets repeated. 24 years on and no repeat!!  :-\

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMmdZZ3LMP0a8c1CRdsfEHZ00HbfcIX4saNfLTc (https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMmdZZ3LMP0a8c1CRdsfEHZ00HbfcIX4saNfLTc)
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMF9Tlbq9bNBKK_fFuTQo3ipsB5mpaJmkLtTxFA (https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMF9Tlbq9bNBKK_fFuTQo3ipsB5mpaJmkLtTxFA)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on April 27, 2019, 11:36:11 pm
Ondra’s thoughts on Total Eclipse (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/06/ondra_speaks_on_total_eclipse-62560)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on April 28, 2019, 01:39:21 pm
Thanks for the updates, good info! https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

Is consensus for Raining Bats and Dogs 8c/+? It's on UKC at 8c but in the list it's 8c/+.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on April 29, 2019, 12:10:54 pm
I was under the impression that its a chunky 8c but not quite 8c+ but others are probably better informed than me, particularly those that have done it!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Teaboy on April 29, 2019, 02:54:46 pm

Is consensus for Raining Bats and Dogs 8c/+? It's on UKC at 8c but in the list it's 8c/+.

Can a slash grade ever be considered consensus? Surely it's very existence indicates that no consensus has been reached? What's wrong with doing the usual and giving it the higher grade until it gets its first female ascent? :worms: :jab: :devil-smiley:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: 36chambers on April 29, 2019, 03:25:15 pm

Is consensus for Raining Bats and Dogs 8c/+? It's on UKC at 8c but in the list it's 8c/+.

Can a slash grade ever be considered consensus? Surely it's very existence indicates that no consensus has been reached? What's wrong with doing the usual and giving it the higher grade until it gets its first female ascent? :worms: :jab: :devil-smiley:

:whistle:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/10/raining_bats_and_dogs_8c_by_mina_leslie-wujastyk-71749
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on April 29, 2019, 03:52:05 pm
Just spotted that it's down as 8c in the women's list. If it's 8c+ then Mina's ascent would be the first 8c+ by a british woman, so unless there's a strong argument for 8c+ it's going to 8c in the men's and women's list.

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on April 29, 2019, 04:26:54 pm
I haven't done RBaD but understand it has never been given a slash grade other than on this list. I don't know how that came about but it has always been seen as top of the grade, not a slash grade. I don't think any routes at Malham are given slash grades AFAIK.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on April 29, 2019, 05:07:35 pm
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=20366.0

Perhaps El Mocho started it in this thread... :worms:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on April 29, 2019, 06:05:30 pm
I haven't done RBaD but understand it has never been given a slash grade other than on this list. I don't know how that came about but it has always been seen as top of the grade, not a slash grade. I don't think any routes at Malham are given slash grades AFAIK.

Good knowledge Ted, 8c it is then.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on April 29, 2019, 06:14:52 pm
A big step up from Bat Route I understand.  :coffee:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: standard on April 30, 2019, 02:46:57 pm
thread title is now inaccurate with the list.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2019, 04:32:22 pm
Jon Freeman’s done Progress and Ben, Aladdin 8c at Giggleswick.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Kingy on April 30, 2019, 04:47:31 pm
thread title is now inaccurate with the list.

I pointed this out a few pages back but nobody is bothered about changing it, it seems  :whistle: :wave:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on May 10, 2019, 11:38:07 am
Another vote in favour of changing the thread title. In other news, Matt Cooke boshed out Bat Route yesterday.  :strongbench:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on May 10, 2019, 12:25:48 pm
Totally on board with a title change, but I think Shark needs to do it? You can change it on a per-post basis but I think the original thread title stays as is unless there's some moderator intervention.

Solid work from Matt! Rapid fire dispatching. https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

I've also axed Randall from the list as there's a 'no trad routes, even if they are ~8c or harder' rule.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on May 10, 2019, 01:43:06 pm

I've also axed Randall from the list as there's a 'no trad routes, even if they are ~8c or harder' rule.

There goes your bonus... :wavecry:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on May 11, 2019, 01:05:48 am
Totally on board with a title change, but I think Shark needs to do it? You can change it on a per-post basis but I think the original thread title stays as is unless there's some moderator intervention.

Done
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on May 11, 2019, 08:09:48 am
Ace, cheers Shark!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on May 11, 2019, 09:22:06 am
Surely the recently bit should have gone from the title as well.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: kingholmesy on May 11, 2019, 11:28:58 pm

I've also axed Randall from the list as there's a 'no trad routes, even if they are ~8c or harder' rule.

That’s a shit rule!  Surely you should get extra waddage for climbing 8c on trad gear?  :shrug:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on May 11, 2019, 11:58:06 pm

I've also axed Randall from the list as there's a 'no trad routes, even if they are ~8c or harder' rule.

That’s a shit rule!  Surely you should get extra waddage for climbing 8c on trad gear?  :shrug:

It's mainly a practicality thing. It makes the list easier if inclusion criteria are well defined and limiting it to sport routes only is one way of doing that. It also doesn't actually affect the list very much as the vast majority of people who have climbed 8c on trad have also done so on sport.

Totally agree that climbing 8c on trad is hadcore and well desrving of wad points!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: kingholmesy on May 12, 2019, 12:24:01 am

It's mainly a practicality thing. It makes the list easier if inclusion criteria are well defined and limiting it to sport routes only is one way of doing that.

Fair enough! I guess it can be a bit uncertain when people say route x would probably be around sport grade y if it was on bolts.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on May 26, 2019, 08:03:47 pm
A new contribution from Sam Williams https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: joel182 on September 22, 2019, 09:57:18 pm
Alex Norton did Make it Funky today (https://www.instagram.com/p/B2uSaeejWgq/)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on September 22, 2019, 11:10:38 pm
Jerome has done Bat Route as well now
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on September 23, 2019, 09:34:44 am
Also Jim Hulbert has done Bat Route and Matthew Wright needs bumping up to 8C+ with Evolution
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy_e on September 23, 2019, 09:55:06 am
Can we change the minimum cut-off to 8c+ please?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on September 23, 2019, 09:58:06 am
Can we change the minimum cut-off to 8c+ please?

 :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 23, 2019, 10:05:00 am
Thanks for the updates, always good to see some new additions https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

Im happy keeping the 8c cut off for the mo, the main point of the it is to keep the list to a size where it's easy to manage and it seems to be doing that.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Will Hunt on September 23, 2019, 10:14:11 am
Too many people getting up Bat Route for my liking. Time for a downgrade  ;D
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 23, 2019, 02:51:06 pm
Too many people getting up Bat Route for my liking. Time for a downgrade  ;D

Well Jim wont be downgrading it will he 😉. Assuming he is doing Malham section still......
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 23, 2019, 03:07:24 pm
Fucking right he won't!  :devangel:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on November 05, 2019, 10:41:36 am
Finn Hayward joins the list in dramatic fashion with 2 8cs in 3 days. https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on November 18, 2019, 07:42:54 am
Buster Martin joins the very select 9a+ club https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on November 28, 2019, 11:18:44 am
I've scrubbed Violent New Breed from the list based on Dan Varian's comments here https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30349.50/topicseen.html

I've moved him down to 9a for hubble https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

A sad day indeed.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: AMorris on November 28, 2019, 11:36:59 am
Oof, a statement right there! :worms:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on January 06, 2020, 03:13:50 pm
Hamish MacArthur has made a strong start to the year!

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Nike Air on January 06, 2020, 09:14:16 pm
Good ticks there, I remember Malcolm gave us some onions when he had to leave siurana having failed to do the first ascent of A Muerte.
I was so impressed to have his onions for tea. I climbed one of my first 8as the next day....
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on February 06, 2020, 06:38:21 pm
Bosi takes the joint top spot! https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on May 29, 2020, 08:39:39 am
Added Micky P with The Illusionist https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: mark s on June 18, 2020, 04:19:22 am
Who is this ledge?
https://www.thecrag.com/climber/morphine
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: webbo on June 18, 2020, 09:26:43 am
He seems to have climbing at Stanage, Curbar and Stoney during lockdown.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Mike Highbury on June 18, 2020, 09:53:48 am
He moves quite poorly for an 8c climber but what do I know?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ru on June 18, 2020, 10:17:44 am
If someone is going to claim ascents in separate logbooks on ukc and the crag, the least they could do is make them match up. Even if they just contained the same routes.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on June 18, 2020, 12:27:47 pm
Feel like Im missing a bit of UKB history here, but it sounds like he's not actually a contender for the list? (to put it politely)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: mark s on June 18, 2020, 01:05:16 pm
Feel like Im missing a bit of UKB history here, but it sounds like he's not actually a contender for the list? (to put it politely)

As soon as i saw the impressive tick lick and stuff around the time i did harder routes and never heard of him. I thought bull shit.
The few photos dont appear to show someone with the ability to climb the routes ticked.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: tomtom on June 18, 2020, 01:30:48 pm
He’s been discussed before on UKB and is on twitter - he’s out and about all the time on the moors above E Manchester.

I’ve often thought (though have no idea really) that some the UKC and other ticks were pisstakes/having a bit of fun. Each to their own etc...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 18, 2020, 10:13:12 pm
You can add Chris Smith to list. True North.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on June 18, 2020, 11:15:08 pm
Ace, he's in! https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: mark s on June 19, 2020, 04:36:18 am
He’s been discussed before on UKB and is on twitter - he’s out and about all the time on the moors above E Manchester.

I’ve often thought (though have no idea really) that some the UKC and other ticks were pisstakes/having a bit of fun. Each to their own etc...

Ive seen his twitter. Ive seen video of his climbing ability. If he has climbed what he claims to have done then ive deadlifted 505kg
Absolute fantasist . Why do these people make these stupid claims when getting shown up is so easy.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: JohnM on June 19, 2020, 06:59:08 am
I think Chris Smith already climbed 8c in the Frankenjura last year but at least he is on the list now!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 19, 2020, 07:17:33 am
Confirmed, battle cat.

Probably needs adding to font 8b list too with that thing at cuttings.

Beast!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on July 17, 2020, 07:32:56 am
Billy ridal has put some of that bouldering power to good use on Make it Funky https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: monkey boy on August 18, 2020, 06:32:49 am
Billy and Alex (Waterhouse) both did Mister Hyde (8c+) in Ceuse yesterday.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on August 19, 2020, 06:42:32 am
Billy and Alex (Waterhouse) both did Mister Hyde (8c+) in Ceuse yesterday.

Waddage. I think Alex has done The Fly before so no upgrade, new PB from Billy though I think https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: monkey boy on August 19, 2020, 01:06:12 pm
Yeah Billy hadn't climbed 8c+ before. I think The Fly is a boulder problem really, it's barely any moves, Alex suggested 8B boulder and not 8B+. Alex also did The Last Rites in Frankenjura in July, which is 8c+.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 02, 2020, 07:22:39 am
Yeah Billy hadn't climbed 8c+ before. I think The Fly is a boulder problem really, it's barely any moves, Alex suggested 8B boulder and not 8B+. Alex also did The Last Rites in Frankenjura in July, which is 8c+.


Agree the fly is more a boulder problem, but I get the impression it gets done with a rope most of the time and that's a fairly usable definition of what counts as a route and what doesn't.

I've moved Kieran Forrest up the list for his recent ascent of Big Bang. https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Duncan campbell on September 13, 2020, 11:40:48 am
Grit headpoint wunderkind and current emperor of the lee dynasty Nathan Lee climbed Mecca extension yesterday.

Impressively think he did the extension first time through Mecca. A testament to working the whole thing from the off if you have the Stam.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 13, 2020, 08:11:33 pm
Grit headpoint wunderkind and current emperor of the lee dynasty Nathan Lee climbed Mecca extension yesterday.

Impressively think he did the extension first time through Mecca. A testament to working the whole thing from the off if you have the Stam.

Waddage. https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: danm on September 14, 2020, 12:47:15 pm
Well done Agatha
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 30, 2020, 04:55:06 pm
Matt Wright has continued working his way through the tor classics with an ascent of Hubble, his first 9a https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFxCUI8jHrs/
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on October 02, 2020, 11:34:55 am
Thought we had a new addition to the list in Matt Broadhurst, but turns out he's been crushing away since last year and the list is out of date. No longer.

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: cjeeky on October 02, 2020, 03:56:56 pm
Your list still out of date Matt Broadhurst has done Nordic Flower Extension
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on October 02, 2020, 04:05:31 pm
Your list still out of date Matt Broadhurst has done Nordic Flower Extension

But says its 8c on ukc.   :shrug:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Will Hunt on October 02, 2020, 04:17:44 pm
Your list still out of date Matt Broadhurst has done Nordic Flower Extension

But says its 8c on ukc.   :shrug:

Has the criteria gone up since The Great Cusping of Sendtember 2019?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on October 02, 2020, 04:50:49 pm
I presume the point cjeeky was making is that NFE gets 8c+ and Matt should be credited accordingly on the list rather than at the punter grade of 8c.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: gme on October 02, 2020, 05:05:31 pm
I think NFE its settling at 8c and Matt downgrades it to that himself on his UKC comment.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on October 02, 2020, 05:33:23 pm
I think NFE its settling at 8c and Matt downgrades it to that himself on his UKC comment.

This. I'm completely unfamiliar with stuff in flatanger though, so if consensus is 8c+ and Matt is just channeling his inner downgrading-brit then I'll move him up the list.

ed: comments on 8a.nu seem to lean towards 8c for nordic flower L1+L2.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Bradders on October 03, 2020, 06:50:40 pm
Matt Wright has continued working his way through the tor classics with an ascent of Hubble, his first 9a https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFxCUI8jHrs/

Completely from my armchair and without wishing to denigrate Mat's achievement - interesting to see Buster Martin describe the new kneebar beta as a game changer today (and presumably therefore easier?). Think Mat is the first to use it, but still suggested 9a, so curious to see how others get on with it.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: duncan on October 03, 2020, 07:08:23 pm
 Interview with Matt on planetmountain (https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/mathew-wright-repeats-hubble-ben-moon-masterpiece-raven-tor.html). Discusses the grade and the helpfulness of kneebars.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on November 11, 2020, 05:04:02 pm
Will Smith has done Estado Critico for his second 9a https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_routes.md
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Bradders on December 10, 2020, 07:30:05 am
Josh Ibbertson needs a bump for Rainshadow, and while you're at it his dad James did Bat Route a few days earlier for his first 8c. Strong team!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on December 10, 2020, 09:28:19 am
Josh Ibbertson needs a bump for Rainshadow, and while you're at it his dad James did Bat Route a few days earlier for his first 8c. Strong team!

Good knowledge, thanks.

https://climbing-history.org/
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ed booth on September 29, 2021, 06:23:34 pm
Angus Kille isn’t on the list but has climbed Mind Control (few years back) at Oliana and also an 8c/+ down in south Spain somewhere.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 29, 2021, 06:51:15 pm
Good knowledge, thanks Ed. I've added Mind control in for him but can't find the other 8c/+ on google, any idea where I could find some more details?

https://climbing-history.org/list/1/strong-british-male-route-climbers
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: abarro81 on September 29, 2021, 07:20:36 pm
Possibly "Sex after Climb" at Jaen/Ottinar. Mawson also done that one IIRC.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Fultonius on September 29, 2021, 08:45:39 pm
 Someone did batman at Malham apparently today.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: mr chaz on September 30, 2021, 09:31:50 am
Who needs specifics... put it on the list!  :lol:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Fultonius on September 30, 2021, 11:48:50 am
Who needs specifics... put it on the list!  :lol:

OK, ok....did some probing and apparently it was Josh Ibbertson.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 30, 2021, 12:12:54 pm
Thanks for chasing it up :2thumbsup:

I've added Josh's ascent to the list https://climbing-history.org/climber/180/josh-ibbertson He's been going well the last 12 months! First Rainshadow, then Northern Lights and now this!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: teestub on September 30, 2021, 12:39:09 pm
I get confused by the link ups in this area, does that mean Josh has done Rainman in 2 sections now, (this and Rainshadow) or is there more hard climbing independent of these two lines?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: shark on September 30, 2021, 01:06:46 pm
I get confused by the link ups in this area, does that mean Josh has done Rainman in 2 sections now, (this and Rainshadow) or is there more hard climbing independent of these two lines?

Yes - he's done it in two sections. There might be a move or two right that is different at the bulge at the end of the Rainshadow crux section but nothing majorly different that Im aware of. 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: teestub on September 30, 2021, 01:13:07 pm
Thanks Shark.

3 9a’s in a year must be up there in terms of all time UK performance?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 30, 2021, 06:12:30 pm
Thanks Shark.

3 9a’s in a year must be up there in terms of all time UK performance?

Sure is. Will Bosi is the other person who comes to mind, between feb 2020 and march 2021 he climbed King Capella (9b+ fa), La Furia de Jabali (9b fa), La Capella (9b), first ley (9a+), last night (9a), estado critico (9a) and la ley indignata (9a). Honourable mentions for Tom Bolger and Buster Martin.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: User deactivated on January 03, 2022, 09:22:09 am
Felix Wilkins did Kaabah a few months back.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on January 03, 2022, 04:52:07 pm
Felix Wilkins did Kaabah a few months back.

Nice! Pretty quick after Mecca Extension too by the looks of it.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 18, 2022, 09:35:12 am
Kev Avery did his first 8c a few weeks back. In France as well so probably not a soft one!

La Benediction.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on April 18, 2022, 09:39:25 am
Kev Avery did his first 8c a few weeks back. In France as well so probably not a soft one!

La Benediction.

Mega! Always good to see someone new on the list.

https://climbing-history.org/list/1/strong-british-male-route-climbers
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: tim palmer on April 18, 2022, 09:42:58 am
Kev Avery did his first 8c a few weeks back. In France as well so probably not a soft one!

La Benediction.

Benchmark for the elderly too probably? 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 18, 2022, 10:50:06 am
Kev Avery did his first 8c a few weeks back. In France as well so probably not a soft one!

La Benediction.

Benchmark for the elderly too probably?

 ;)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: accynez on September 29, 2022, 09:00:46 am
Accomplished trombonist and mild mannered youngster Louis Lancaster waltzed up Bat Route yesterday for his first 8c in not many sessions (6 or so?). He's 15 btw
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on September 29, 2022, 10:15:46 am
Accomplished trombonist and mild mannered youngster Louis Lancaster waltzed up Bat Route yesterday for his first 8c in not many sessions (6 or so?). He's 15 btw

Of the Lancaster brass dynasty? Noice!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on September 29, 2022, 02:04:17 pm
Accomplished trombonist and mild mannered youngster Louis Lancaster waltzed up Bat Route yesterday for his first 8c in not many sessions (6 or so?). He's 15 btw

Thanks for the heads up, I've added him to the list. And 6 sessions? Basically onsight.

https://climbing-history.org/list/1/strong-british-male-route-climbers
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy_e on September 29, 2022, 02:41:17 pm
I believe that's called a season flash
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ally Smith on October 03, 2022, 11:48:58 am
Fred Mead joins the 8c club with an ascent of Fallingwater (AKA "Fred's Project") at Pride Evans Cave in Cheddar gorge.

Notable for the 15 year gap between bolting it and climbing it, and giving up climbing altogether in the meantime!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CjLxh1Qjw2Y/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on October 03, 2022, 12:33:18 pm
That's mega! Was it an open project? Even more impressive if so!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Ally Smith on October 03, 2022, 12:40:41 pm
It was an open project for a long time, hence being known as "Fred's project" in at least one guidebook. Ellis B-B claimed the FA in 2015, and it was also climbed by Mat Wright last year.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cheddar_gorge_north-2280/fallingwater-360357
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on October 03, 2022, 02:18:45 pm
What was the deal with Ellis BB? Is the consensus that he did or didn't do the stuff he was claiming and why was there any doubt in the first place?
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on October 03, 2022, 03:14:05 pm
It was an open project for a long time, hence being known as "Fred's project" in at least one guidebook. Ellis B-B claimed the FA in 2015, and it was also climbed by Mat Wright last year.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cheddar_gorge_north-2280/fallingwater-360357

Ah yeah I'm being a div, sorry. I read it as the FA. Awesome either way. Solid insparation for some neglected projects.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Wood FT on October 03, 2022, 09:07:42 pm
What was the deal with Ellis BB? Is the consensus that he did or didn't do the stuff he was claiming and why was there any doubt in the first place?

Absolute weapon. Probably didn't understand some intricacies around trad routes in cheddar and what L1/L2 meant abroad. Undeniably strong boi though.

I might be misremembering but I'm not going to check the record and he doesn't give a shit anyway.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on October 04, 2022, 06:41:07 am
Fred Mead joins the 8c club with an ascent of Fallingwater (AKA "Fred's Project") at Pride Evans Cave in Cheddar gorge.

Notable for the 15 year gap between bolting it and climbing it, and giving up climbing altogether in the meantime!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CjLxh1Qjw2Y/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

That's mega! So cool that he's come back to climbing and gotten it done, strong return to form.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: haydn jones on November 11, 2022, 07:33:59 pm
Alex hall joins the club with directa cornualles  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: remus on November 11, 2022, 10:08:36 pm
Nice, always good to have another new entrant.

Looking at his UKC logbook it looks like he hadn't climbed harder than 8a+ before this year?! Three grades in a year is rapid.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Mullett24k on February 24, 2023, 06:59:27 pm
Josh Rundle has repeated the cheddar 8c Fallingwater.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CpDe0WcJRYo/
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Duncan campbell on March 03, 2023, 10:58:06 am
Aryan wünderkind/walking muscle Luke Dawson repeated Escalatamasters 9a at perles in pretty quick fashion. Second 9a.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: MischaHY on March 03, 2023, 12:22:00 pm
Aryan wünderkind

What is the context of this? Seems a little tasteless...
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 03, 2023, 12:29:06 pm
Its a joke based on Luke's blond hair and blue eyes!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: MischaHY on March 03, 2023, 01:05:06 pm
Its a joke based on Luke's blond hair and blue eyes!

Maybe I'm oversensitive from living in DE too long. Probably being a bit soft but as far as I'm aware the only context that word has been used aside from describing a specific bunch of indo-europeans is in the nazi context. Happy to hear some discourse from others as I'm usually well up for a joke but that makes me feel a bit wriggly. Could just be me.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: PlainCroi$$ant on March 03, 2023, 01:13:07 pm
Yeah, bit of a weird one to throw in there.
Good effort Luke on the climb!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: highrepute on March 03, 2023, 01:18:22 pm
Its a joke based on Luke's blond hair and blue eyes!

Maybe I'm oversensitive from living in DE too long. Probably being a bit soft but as far as I'm aware the only context that word has been used aside from describing a specific bunch of indo-europeans is in the nazi context. Happy to hear some discourse from others as I'm usually well up for a joke but that makes me feel a bit wriggly. Could just be me.

the Wikipedia page certainly makes that wriggly feeling seem well placed (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aryan_race)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: MischaHY on March 03, 2023, 02:21:48 pm

Good effort Luke on the climb!

It's a brilliant looking line, saw it in 2017. Definitely a great effort from Luke.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 03, 2023, 02:30:29 pm
I think we're all aware of the meaning of Aryan but I took it as a joke; no white supremacist overtones!

Anyway it is very quick work from Luke after the protracted siege on Rainshadow!
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Duncan campbell on March 03, 2023, 02:48:26 pm
My bad… definitely didn’t mean to invoke any white supremacy overtones, was just a little joke on Luke’s blond hair blue eyes, to spice up a fairly to the point post. Didn’t really think it through.

Mods feel free to delete.

Sorry for any offence/ wriggly feeling caused, very much not my intention! And don’t want to take away from a friend’s achievement with silly (and not even funny) jokes.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: MischaHY on March 03, 2023, 03:13:01 pm
Hope I didn't come across as wanting to point the finger at anyone, definitely wasn't the intention! It's just tricky how little things like this can slip under the cultural radar but come from a very dark place.

A fun example from a personal perspective: I spent years over here joking about how I was a 'Brexit Refugee'. It wasn't until the Ukranians started arriving that I realised that maybe it wasn't funny, or at least not as funny anymore.

Anyway, apologies for the segway.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Duncan campbell on March 03, 2023, 05:04:02 pm
No worries. Better to have these things pointed out rather than people feel uncomfortable  :)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy moles on March 04, 2023, 07:23:35 am
Anyway, apologies for the segway.

I think you mean a segue, otherwise I'm lost :lol:

https://images.app.goo.gl/gciUTRd8QBtfShqB9

Is it becoming similarly wriggly now to describe what I just wrote as grammar-Naziism?  :unsure:

Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 04, 2023, 09:00:10 am
Anyway, apologies for the segway.

I think you mean a segue, otherwise I'm lost :lol:

https://images.app.goo.gl/gciUTRd8QBtfShqB9

Is it becoming similarly wriggly now to describe what I just wrote as grammar-Naziism?  :unsure:

Just Nazism.

 https://youtu.be/c3y0CD2CoCs (https://youtu.be/c3y0CD2CoCs)
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy moles on March 04, 2023, 09:20:40 am
Ignoramo  :slap:
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Fiend on March 04, 2023, 10:30:59 am
Anyway, apologies for the segway.

I think you mean a segue, otherwise I'm lost :lol:

https://images.app.goo.gl/gciUTRd8QBtfShqB9

Is it becoming similarly wriggly now to describe what I just wrote as grammar-Naziism?  :unsure:

I've been on a segway and they are pretty cool, some black magic shit going on with gyroscopes and stuff. So I'd say it's fine to point out the difference.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: andy popp on March 04, 2023, 10:57:40 am
some black magic shit going on

https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-14167868
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: MischaHY on March 04, 2023, 01:16:17 pm
Anyway, apologies for the segway.

I think you mean a segue, otherwise I'm lost :lol:

https://images.app.goo.gl/gciUTRd8QBtfShqB9

Is it becoming similarly wriggly now to describe what I just wrote as grammar-Naziism?  :unsure:

Pahaha it'd be nice to blame autocorrect but I genuinely don't think I've ever seen it written before and assumed it was the same as the machine.

I personally always found grammar-nazi quite funny (disgust and contempt at others grammar inadequacy seems to fit the fascist image quite well) but the one time I said it in the office here people got quite weird about it. 
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: Moo on March 04, 2023, 10:56:20 pm
The guy who edited Hitlers speeches was a grammar nazi.
Title: Re: UK men who have recently climbed 8c or harder
Post by: SA Chris on March 05, 2023, 11:43:51 pm
How can a guy be a grammar?
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