UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: gremlin on September 01, 2011, 01:04:50 pm
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Just got one of these things on Monday from Go Outdoors in Wigan for £55.
(http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/Wood-Grips-Deluxe-Training-Board.jpg)
After installing it I had a go at the supplied routine that came with it for that particular board. To my shame I could only get half way through the 10 min routine! :-[
Does anyone have a novice friendly finger board session that I could follow. One that wont have me injuring myself?
Thanks.
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Pop over to beastmaker.co.uk and have a read of the 3-2-1 article.
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adjust the routine to suit you. you don't need to follow it to the letter. hanging on the board a few times a wk will get u stronger fingers, in a few wks you'll be holding smaller holds for longer. then you can start experimenting with stuff, otherwise you'll probably get disheartened that you can't do what's been suggested etc
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There's a few ideas in here to have a look at Gremlin..
http://www.pdf-archive.com/2011/08/04/crusher-holds-handout-3-5mb/ (http://www.pdf-archive.com/2011/08/04/crusher-holds-handout-3-5mb/)
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One of the most motivating things about a fingerboard is that they can function as a good acid test for you. As Dense says, you'll be spurred on by the gains that you'll make very quickly and soon have little 'tests' on it that can serve to tell you where you're at with finger strength or number of power pulls. Start slowly and feel the vibe.
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Thanks for all the helpful advice chaps. :great:
The beastmaker 3-2-1 article sounds good but I think it no longer exists on their website.