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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Bubba on June 24, 2003, 01:50:33 pm

Title: Do you always try for the onsight?
Post by: Bubba on June 24, 2003, 01:50:33 pm: I find that most of the time I don't, which is probably bad really because there's lots of things I get after a few tries and I end up thinking "shit, could have done that first go if I'd pulled my finger out".

I know it doesn't really matter, and sometimes I don't think it's any more desirable to thrash up a problem onsight than doing it nice and stylishly after you've worked the moves, but I think sometimes I give up to easily.
Title: Do you always try for the onsight?
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 24, 2003, 01:54:09 pm: YES.
Title: Do you always try for the onsight?
Post by: dontfollowme on June 24, 2003, 02:04:13 pm: Depends who I'm with really. If I'm with climbers as good as or better than me I try for the flash just because it calls for it. If I'm not then I'm not as fussed. I agree it can be frustrating knowing you shulod have flashed a problem especially if its below your limit but it doesn't bother me that much. I do enjoy working a problem, making small modifications here and there which result in being able to top out.
Title: Do you always try for the onsight?
Post by: dave on June 24, 2003, 02:08:35 pm: I only really consciously try to flash stuff when I'm somewhere on a road trip, like font or wales or somewhere (porth ysgo is great for this kind of thing but flashing stuff in font is hard, only really flashed stuff with positive holds like duroxmanie). When I'm in local areas I tend to get on stuff "just to have a look" not really trying, find it alright and then get it next couple of goes and then wish I had remembered to try harder in the first instance. This has happened to me on shit like Honorary Caley. Or the other gem is to have a look at the start, flash it then remember you didn't look to see where the holds are higher up.

As for trying stuff proper onsight (i.e. no beta) I don't care about it cos for me that's generally not what bouldering is about.
Title: Do you always try for the onsight?
Post by: Carnage on June 25, 2003, 10:53:15 am: I only really go for the flash if its only like a couple of moves and the sequence is easy to read. Prime example-managed to flash Les Lepreaux direct in Font - 3 moves, see all the holds- know watcha gotta do-

Just blast it! :D
Title: Do you always try for the onsight?
Post by: (woz) on June 25, 2003, 12:27:42 pm: personally i'm not bothered about the flash, its more important how it feels(hard/easy) when i actually do it...

is the difference in "achievement" between flashing and practiced ascents thought to be the same in bouldering and trad routes/sport routes?
Title: Do you always try for the onsight?
Post by: dobbin on June 25, 2003, 05:29:54 pm: I'm down with the comp thing so I always try to flash stuff. As bubba mentioned if you have to thrash your way up it on the flash, I'll usually try to find a better sequence on subsequent goes.

Climbing is just so cool I don't really care - i just like it. More!
Title: Do you always try for the onsight?
Post by: andC on June 25, 2003, 06:17:10 pm: I fall off of everything, well maybe not a v0 , but anything harder than a v3 takes several tries. But I do always try to do it the first time :?