UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: tomtom on January 30, 2018, 05:50:12 pm
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Anyone tried these? I'm a fan of the old slipper, VS and VSR's... wondering what these are like? (not at £110 but when they come down a bit..)
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Also interested. Have been gutted since they stopped doing the styx in a 45—but I notice these new things are available in said size. Almost impulse bought last night. I was lamenting on here about this sizing thing a while back, and ended up getting my VS pair resoled in the softer rubber. Great, but not a true softie thanks to the midsole.
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Drew will likely know, but I guess he's obliged to say they're sliced bread 2.0.
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Heel looks weird - like it has two ‘edges’... was hoping to fondle some at the wall yesterday but they didn’t have any.
I have to confess though that I’ve been hoarding scarpa’s When they are cheap - so new I have 2x instinct S, 1x instinct laces, 1 x VSR... and a couple of older used pairs in the bag..
I probably should wait :)
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A healthy stock, sure. :)
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Had a chance to try these on, and whilst I thought they were alright (fit wise) I then tried a pair of the new Magos on...and they're just incredibly nice. I had a pair of the old ones, but they seemed much stiffer (IIRC—it was like 8 years ago, or something)—these ones are soft as, perfect big toe power, sensitive heel, and the leather/lace combo should conform to the vagaries of my feet well. Best shoes out of the box for me since the original boosters.
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Tried the slipper on today, seemed a little baggier round the instep than the original (which are great) so not for me.
Didn’t try the Magos, still have a stockpile of the first version which are brilliant imo
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Outside in Hathersage are currently doing them for £88 on the website, if that helps your decision?
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Outside in Hathersage are currently doing them for £88 on the website, if that helps your decision?
Bad Dave ;) you’ve tweaked my inner Imelda Marcos... that’s a good price...
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:devil-smiley:
Do it...... You know you want to!
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I'm sure he already has!
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I'm sure he already has!
Nope - waiting until I'm passing through hathersage and I'll stop and have a fondle...
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Outside in Hathersage are currently doing them for £88 on the website, if that helps your decision?
Have I already missed the boat on these? Can't see them for that price, anyone got a link?
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I'm sure he already has!
Nope - waiting until I'm passing through hathersage and I'll stop and have a fondle...
Admirable restraint tomtom.
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In my climbing bag I presently have
1 pair vsr’s
1 pair vs
1 pair vs resoled with the softer rubber (like the vsr)
1 pair of v (slippers)
At home still in the box
1 pair s
1 pair vs lace ups.
Maybe I have an addiction....
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In my climbing bag I presently have
1 pair vsr’s
1 pair vs
1 pair vs resoled with the softer rubber (like the vsr)
1 pair of v (slippers)
At home still in the box
1 pair s
1 pair vs lace ups.
Maybe I have an addiction....
More like a healthy appreciation for good shoes.
(Currently in the quiver: instinct vs, instinct lace ups, dragos, tenaya masai, evolv shaman 2, vapour v)
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The only shoes i own are one pair of instinct vs. They do me for all my climbing and last me a good 6-8 months.
Even when i climbed full time i only ever had a couple of pairs on the go. Your all just gear tarts.
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Thats because you had no money.
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The only shoes i own are one pair of instinct vs. They do me for all my climbing and last me a good 6-8 months.
Even when i climbed full time i only ever had a couple of pairs on the go. Your all just gear tarts.
I find they last about that long too - the slippers are better on some stuff though.. The reason I have so many is just buying some up when they are cheap :D
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Sounds like you have convinced yourself.
I do actually need some new boots hence looking at this thread. Going to stick with the vs as I can’t really fault them.
I am going to get my old pair resoled though for the wall. Where’s good to get this done in Sheffield.
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Don't know about Sheffield but heard good things about http://www.llanberisresoles.com/
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I've had 4pairs done at Llanberis resoles and been very happy with them all...
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Fuck me that’s expensive. I thought it would be 20 quid ish.
Not paying 40 for resoles.
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Come on grandad, a pint of bitter isn’t 50p any more, the rubber probably costs that much!
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The Foundry offer a resole service with Feet First. Similar price (slightly less. £35 I think), but no postage and less faff. I've resoled my vs and thought it was worth it - the edge etc is basically like new, but no painful break in period. Unfortunately, they'll still stink. If you've gone through the toe hook bit, they might be able to put a patch on it for £10/pair.
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http://www.shoedoc.eu I use this £26 per pair plus postage when I last did it...
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I've had 4pairs done at Llanberis resoles and been very happy with them all...
Torquil at Llanberis did my VS with the thinner/softer rubber that’s on the slippers and on the VSR’s. As VSR’s are VS with the different rubber I effectively got the same for £38 instead of £110...
If you’re in beris you can drop them off for atorquil at v12. I also had a pair of slippers resoled - they didn’t work as well as the VS. Maybe as they are softer etc...
I got my last batch (2) of the slippers from EpicTV when they had some 20% off thing and they were about £60 a pair..
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Come on grandad, a pint of bitter isn’t 50p any more, the rubber probably costs that much!
Used to be able to cut the rubber from the heel and glue it on the toe back in the day. Two pairs for the price of one.
I have never paid more than 70 for a pair hence why 40 sounds a lot for a resole.
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Instinct VS for £70? That sounds mighty cheap. Can you let me know if and when that ever comes up again?
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Fuck me that’s expensive. I thought it would be 20 quid ish.
Not paying 40 for resoles.
They come back like a new pair of boots that fit you perfectly. Not like the old days when they would be only good for a wall boot.
Some pairs delaminate sooner than others, but they climb just as good after the resole. Well, my muira vs always have.
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I agree. I did the same as tomtom with my VS pair, getting them resoled in the grip rubber. Which, for my liking, made them better than the originals. I'm no fan of the edge rubber.
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Yep me too.
Gav, have a word with yourself! I’m looking forward to your next post about jumpers for goalposts and how policemen all seem to be getting a lot younger these days...
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I am glad someone else has noticed that as well.
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Cheshire Shoe Repairs do a very good job for the price and are inclusive of rands.
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how policemen all seem to be getting a lot younger these days...
And shorter... ;)
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Even when i climbed full time i only ever had a couple of pairs on the go.
Only because you were on the dole and couldn't afford it.
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The Instinct Slipper was been my fav all rounder climbing shoe. I also liked the Stix a lot on steeper routes. I tried to stock up on the Instinct Slipper when I realised they were changing the design but I couldn't find my size. I'm very pleased I didn't because the new Instinct SR is the best rock shoes I have ever climbed in. They fit perfectly. I was concerned about the look of the heel but it has performed really well at heel hooking too. Fit wise, I went up one size.
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Interesting point about the heel Steve. I picked up a pair of these the other day and the heels feel like the main downside to me. I usually tend to wear the instinct vs and compared to those the heel feels quite 'shallow', and combined with the lack of a strap they feel like they're about to pop off at any moment. Might be a bit of getting used to them involved but I can't imagine i'll be yarding on the heels any time soon.
On the plus side the toes feel excellent. Quite a similar fit to the instinct vs but a bit softer. For me a nice bonus was that they felt great out of the box, in the past Ive had a bit of a quest breaking in the instinct vs.
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got these a few days ago, as i had won a pair of scarpa shoes at a local comp.
first impressions
so far very positive - only two sessions outdoors and one indoors. probably won't be my main redpoint shoe as i like something stiffer and a little pointier...
the main (only?) downside of the shoe is the way the toe rubber is assembled under the rand, makes for a quite bulky big toe profile that could fit better into small pockets and thin cracks...I wonder if this will change as the shoe breaks in.
other than that, this could easily become my main allround shoe when worn in, plus a performance shoe for more smeary applications, some cracks, toe hooks etc.
very good comfort/performance compromise and a well balanced amount of stiffness and downturn for a true slipper
a bit puzzled by the sizing, compared to the last time i tried scarpas in a shop. they seem small for their size.
i quite like the heel, but would like to try the same design on a non slipper shoe (furias?). when pulling straight on it it will never feel secure unless you fit the shoe extremely tight. Very nice fit and interesting sensitivity though, works great on indoor volumes.