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places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: Monolith on May 17, 2013, 05:56:12 pm

Title: Islay bouldering?
Post by: Monolith on May 17, 2013, 05:56:12 pm
I'm off to Islay for a week this coming Friday and though climbing obviously isn't the main focus of the trip, I just wanted to put the feelers out and see if I stand a chance of finding anything remotely worthwhile? I've read descriptions of Islay that mentions caves. I'm holding out very little hope here....
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: r-man on May 17, 2013, 07:04:25 pm
Just had a look on geograph - there are definitely caves...

http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021)
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345061 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345061)
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888107 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2888107)
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: Stubbs on May 17, 2013, 10:46:34 pm
http://www.betaguides.co.uk/bouldering-areas/scotland.html?location=Machir%20Bay%20Left%20Hand&area=Island%20of%20Islay&country=scotland (http://www.betaguides.co.uk/bouldering-areas/scotland.html?location=Machir%20Bay%20Left%20Hand&area=Island%20of%20Islay&country=scotland)
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: Monolith on May 19, 2013, 06:29:51 pm
Cheers guys. Machir Bay might at least offer me chance of keeping up a pump for the week off.

This option Robin: http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021)

Looks like some potential at left end of cave perhaps. Not too far from Bunnahabhain - could be a winner when up that way. Thanks for the images!
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: andyd on May 19, 2013, 06:47:15 pm
Cheers guys. Machir Bay might at least offer me chance of keeping up a pump for the week off.

This option Robin: http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021)

Looks like some potential at left end of cave perhaps. Not too far from Bunnahabhain - could be a winner when up that way. Thanks for the images!

That looks like an amazing place to check out regardless
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 19, 2013, 07:39:50 pm
Please do an Owenesque blog about beards, pirates and holdless 8c projects in the middle of nowhere!
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: r-man on May 19, 2013, 08:37:27 pm
This option Robin: http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021)

Looks like some potential at left end of cave perhaps. Not too far from Bunnahabhain - could be a winner when up that way. Thanks for the images!

No problem. Looking forward to the blog post!

Looks like a top stretch of coast to explore...

http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345071 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345071)
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345047 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345047)
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1366486 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1366486)
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1365550 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1365550)
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: SA Chris on May 20, 2013, 09:00:34 am
climbing obviously isn't the main focus of the trip

It's whisky galore time really isn't it.
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: Monolith on May 20, 2013, 12:20:44 pm
Robin! These caves are getting better and better! I'm currently sans pad on my initial journey to Glasgow. I'm going to have to sort a pad out somehow, this is too good an opportunity to miss.

Chris, it really is whisky galore! Festival time and schmoozing is the aim of the trip but crushing and sea trout hunting is also on the agenda. 
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: SA Chris on May 20, 2013, 12:42:13 pm
Pad shmad. Find some bouldering on a sandy beach!
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: davej on May 21, 2013, 08:37:17 pm
Watch the only ticks you get are boulder probs! Islay is great  Jura's worth a look as well.
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: Monolith on June 17, 2013, 01:26:07 pm
Watch the only ticks you get are boulder probs! Islay is great  Jura's worth a look as well.

Good shout that Dave! Woke up one morning to find one the size of a golf ball crawling around the outside of my sleeping bag.

Despite a trip to the north shore, we never made it to the caves pictured in Robin's photographs; the distillery tour and event programme was too hectic to permit a proper exploration. The rock on Islay was reminiscent of the gabbro at Porth Ysgo. Its formation wasn't particularly conducive to climbing from most of the stuff I saw although the north shore rock does look potentially very good. I'm planning a 30th birthday trip to the island in October and this time, climbing will be high on the agenda.

 For anybody remotely interested in a write up of the whisky aspect of Feis Ile 2013, I'll be writing up my extensive notes in the coming weeks and publishing them to a new blog. It was very easily one of the best weeks of my life.
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: Pitcairn on June 17, 2013, 08:33:05 pm
This option Robin: http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345021)

Looks like some potential at left end of cave perhaps. Not too far from Bunnahabhain - could be a winner when up that way. Thanks for the images!

No problem. Looking forward to the blog post!

Looks like a top stretch of coast to explore...

http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345071 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345071)
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345047 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3345047)
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1366486 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1366486)
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1365550 (http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1365550)

I have been a regular visitor to Islay as I teach a 2nd year geology field course there.  The caves in the pictures are quartzite and there is good potential for some bouldering there.  Ive done a bit but never had the time to properly explore and clean stuff.  The downside is that it is a 1.5 to 2 hours walk from Bunnahabhain.

I would say the best options is the Rhinns - beautiful solid schist in the northern part and awesome gneiss in the southern part.  The Kilchoman to Sanaigmore area offers many nice beaches with potential.  Ive bouldering a fair bit in and around Saligo Bay which is good.  Also close to Kilchoman who make the islands best malt IMHO :) In the southern Rhinns Lossit Bay has some potential but other places may be better.

The Mull of Oa has big cliffs but the rocks is softer and can be crappy flakey schist.  Maybe some bouldering though...

It really is a fantastic place - great geology, very friendly locals, endless beaches and loads of bouldering potential. 
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: Monolith on June 19, 2013, 12:27:04 pm
Some good info there Pitcairn! Thanks for the information.

There is a track along the northwest of the island that takes you 25 minutes walk to the caves. We only had to stop and turn back owing to moving camp and needing to get to an event but will definitely progress to the end next time.
Title: Re: Islay bouldering?
Post by: Pitcairn on June 19, 2013, 08:56:11 pm
25 minutes walk form those caves sounds good.  Ill have to check that out although the lazy students need a good long walk anyway...
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