UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => music, art and culture => Topic started by: Nibile on January 11, 2016, 03:03:59 pm
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Hi guys, I need some help with some terms that I need to translate.
What does it mean "frigging" when it deals with various techniques of working a route?
It's used alongside "Yo-yoing" and "dogging".
Which technique is that, "frigging a route"?
Cheers.
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https://www.thebmc.co.uk/beta-be-prepared-a-guide-to-climbing-terms
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:beer2:
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I'd agree with that definition, but more specifically I'd say there's a difference in intent. Frigging is using any method just to get to the top. Yo-yoing and hang-dogging imply being involved in a process to do the route clean, which frigging doesn't.
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Not proper climbing, but short of full-on aid climbing.
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Using aid and especially resting on the rope to get up something you've failed to free climb because it's too hard for you.
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In the days before red pointing and dogging, frigging meant cheating your way up a route by any means.
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Please tell me you googled dogging nibs ;)
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One of the best OPs on UKB that I have ever seen.
You should be aware, Nibs, that "frigging" is also a verb used to describe the act of fingering a lady's vagina. Not a word you would use in polite company.
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You should be aware, Nibs, that "frigging" is also a verb used to describe the act of fingering a lady's vagina.
Vigorously.
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Hi guys, I need some help with some terms that I need to translate.
What does it mean "frigging" when it deals with various techniques of working a route?
It's used alongside "Yo-yoing" and "dogging".
Which technique is that, "frigging a route"?
Cheers.
In italian ravanare maybe :-)
Inviato dal mio Nexus 7 utilizzando Tapatalk
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One of the best OPs on UKB that I have ever seen.
You should be aware, Nibs, that "frigging" is also a verb used to describe the act of fingering a lady's vagina. Not a word you would use in polite company.
That fits as cheating your way up a route would make you a right cunt.
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http://youtu.be/tRotvCVKAe8
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Beaten to it by cheque!
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;D
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Guys,
is there any pun or double meaning in the name of the routes Hot Fun Closing and Zeke the Freak?
Cheers.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WtsYw74nU0
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Alright.
Hot fun closing? Some reference to Kudos?
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Hot Fun is a song by Stanley Clarke
Used to close a live show it was listed on an album as Hot Fun Closing
https://open.spotify.com/album/1oJOmrl0FICjtyR2bX2Fqe
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:bow:
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Guys,
in Ben's book, at some point he talks about when he first spotted LPT. He refers to is as "seeing that huge bomb bay."
I struggle to understand this reference. It's where bombers carry the bombs, innit?
What do you think?
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There is a term used Bomb Bay Chimney which refers to a Chimney feature which flares out at the bottom.
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In this context it perhaps means 'opens out at the bottom' because of the big overhangs in the main section. The wave at The Foundry has a 'bomb-bay' on the far right, mentioned as such in this write-up (http://www.foundryclimbing.com/2015/02/10/f-bo15-foundry-bouldering-open-2015/), so it means an (large) overhanging area.
You could always consult the Urban Dictionaries definition (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Bomb+Bay+Doors). I doubt that was what was meant but you never know. :-\
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:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
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A “bombé” with anglified pronunciation, surely
(http://images.teamsugar.com/files/upl2/6/61259/13_2009/ed7d558b3981a3b7_dscn2809.xlarge.jpg)
A bomb bay chimey is definitely a bottomless chimney (at least in US). People tells me it has to do with being bottomless like the weapons bay on an aircraft. I'm sceptical.
Disclaimer: I have no idea what I'm talking about.
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People tells me it has to do with being bottomless like the weapons bay on an aircraft. I'm sceptical.
It's true though.
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In need of clarification again.
When Ben talks about repeating Main Overhang, he says that he was on the last layaway, and when he built his feet up "the layaway snapped".
From what you know about the story, does this mean that the actual hold snapped, or that his fingers snapped out of it?
Cheers.
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I'd read that as the hold snapping
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How I read it too, but don't have any further direct knowledge.
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No idea but you could go straight to the horses mouth and ask Ben via twatter. @moonclimbing (https://www.twitter.com/moonclimbing) is his account
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That statement is that the hold snapped ie the rock itself broke.
Fingers don't 'snap out of holds', they slip, slide, grease off, but snapping is the act of breaking off a part of the whole.
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Cheers guys, that's what I thought.
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Guys, could you give me a few names of routes involving Arnie and the crag where they are?
The Austrian Oak at Malham.
Terminator?
A couple more?
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Guys, could you give me a few names of routes involving Arnie and the crag where they are?
The Austrian Oak at Malham.
Terminator?
A couple more?
Arnold Schwarzenegger Stole my Body, Higgar Tor
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Predator, it's next to the Oak.
Try searching this:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=162049
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That link is private, but the nickname Beverooni is well cool.
Nevermind, the above list is more than enough, it's only to clarify things in a note.
Cheers.
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Guys, when talking about the Arco 1987 competition, it's said that Ben finished 10th, "one place behind Jerry and a few places adrift from Chris Gore and Martin Atkinson." Does this mean that he was a few placese ahead or behind Chris and Martin?
Cheers.
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behind. as in a boat that is adrift is not under power.
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I would have said "adrift of Chris..."
Yeah, it means behind.
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Cheers.
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Have you read Mother Tongue by Bill Bryson it might help you understand that there is not a lot of logic to English.
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Beasts,
when Ben says "You could say I was training for a profession" does this mean that he felt his training was like a profession at the moment, or that he was training for a future profession in the sport?
Cheeers.
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Beasts,
when Ben says "You could say I was training for a profession" does this mean that he felt his training was like a profession at the moment, or that he was training for a future profession in the sport?
Cheeers.
A bit tricky as possibly needs more context - though here Id' say it meant he was 'training for a job' as in his training was equivalent to a full time workload etc..
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Without context it reads like the second option.
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I thought the same as TT. Need more context.
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Can I copy on here the small paragraph?
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You could just tell me what page, I've got statement next to me atm
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Pm'd you. I have the Kindle version. No pages.
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He's talking about training for his future in the sport, making the analogy between benefits (dole) allowing him to train, and student grants from the government allowing others to train for their professions.
Imo.
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So he was training for his future profession as a climber.
Right?
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His future "profession" in climbing, I would say, as he's also made a business out of it etc.
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Hey, is it correct to say that British 6c translates roughly into French 7b and British 7a into 7c? As single moves.
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Hey, is it correct to say that British 6c translates roughly into French 7b and British 7a into 7c? As single moves.
As single moves?
I would say a *very* short F7b might have moves on it that were bottom end english 6c... but more likely 6b. A long 8a would probably have a fair few 6b moves on it? The problem is that british technical grades describe that hardest move... so an E5 6c has E5 exposure and length, and the hardest move is 6c. This would probably be a longish 7b - but the 7b is an overall grade not a hardest move grade.
It's probably better to compare british tech grades to bouldering grades. 6c is somewhere V6-V8, maybe?
I've confused myself now...
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I personally wouldn't even try to compare the two. The English grade is supposed to describe the difficulty of a single move (and runs into difficulty even when trying to describe moves that form part of a harder crux sequence) and so there is huge variation when comparing it to French grades. A one move wonder slab with an English 6a move as the crux might be circa 6c French (sorry if that's shite, not my area of expertise)? Raindogs is supposed to be 6a all the way I think and comes in at 8a!
If you give us the sentence you're trying to translate, or even the name of the route that Ben is describing we might be more useful?
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I assume you mean font grades Nibile? (Btw. Single move. That's clearly nonsense. A single move has nothing to do with climbing. Except perhaps if it's a long dyno.)
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Yes, I know it's quite confusing.
Let's put it in another way.
British 6c could translate into a very short and powerful boulder of Font 7b?
and 7a into Font 7c?
It's not for a route in particular. I need it for a footnote.
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Yes, I know it's quite confusing.
Let's put it in another way.
British 6c could translate into a very short and powerful boulder of Font 7b?
and 7a into Font 7c?
It's not for a route in particular. I need it for a footnote.
I'd say yes - but the English tech grades span several Font grades (hence why Font grades are so great :) )
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Ahahaha, ok it's just to give a rough idea to those sad bastards that haven't seen One Summer with its final list of problems and grades. ;)
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Are you by chance referencing the "when 6c isn't that hard any more and 6b is approaching a rest" quote?
6c could be anything from a short 7A up into the 8s
7a will start somewhere around 7B+ up
And in case you need it in future 6b is probably around 6B to low/mid 7s
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What Nai said.
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He's talking about the grade of the moves on Agincourt.
Cheers guys.
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Here I am again.
Is "Snore" and old monicker for Raven Tor? Page 138 of the book.
Where does it come from?
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Don't know about the history of that nickname, however a "snore" is the snorting/grunting sound some people's breathing makes when they sleep.
Snore, sounds a bit like Tor: the implication being that the Tor is boring/passé and thus puts you to sleep. Does that make sense in context?
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Don't know about the history of that nickname, however a "snore" is the snorting/grunting sound some people's breathing makes when they sleep.
Snore, sounds a bit like Tor: the implication being that the Tor is boring/passé and thus puts you to sleep. Does that make sense in context?
Yes, it does. Interesting.
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Anyone else knows anything about Snore/Tor?
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Is "Snore" and old monicker for Raven Tor? Page 138 of the book.
Where does it come from?
Exactly, yes, it's a nickname. It is still in use, my guess is as Will said.
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Cheers guys. :bow:
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Here I am again, nearly finished.
In the last page of the Unfinished Masterpiece chapter, when they talk about the two different sequences used by Ben and Steve on the Kilnsey project, it reads: "There’s not much to be gained in entertaining the counter-factual for
long."
What does this mean? That it's not worth talking about what could have been if...
Cheers.
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Yes basically. I think.
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Hey guys!
Wen Ben climbs Voyager low, Gav "Aussie" Portman was filming. Is "Aussie" his nickname, or also his nationality or just the nationality?
Thanks.
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If written like this it's his nickname. He may or may not be Austalian.
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If written like this it's his nickname. He may or may not be Austalian.
+1
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He's from Australia and his nickname was "Aussie Gav" to avoid confusing with GME. Used to post on UKB quite frequently ten years ago. Might be lurking...
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Cheers!!!
I checked it out and it's written "Aussie" Gav Portman. Makes sense that it's both his nickname and nationality.
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YYFY!!!
Just finished the first draft of the book!!!
It should be all downhill from here, hopefully.
Thanks to you all guys.
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Our invoice is in the post.
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Ahahahahah!
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Hello again guys.
With the kind permission from the Man himself, from GuyVG and from the nice people at the BMC (Alex and Tim), we are going to add the UKB interview to the Italian edition of the book.
I am struggling a bit with some bits that I don't hear/comprehend properly.
Could someone help me?
What does Shark says at the very beginning, before introducing Ben? Something about his pants?
Cheers.
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"I don't know if you can see me but it's Simon Lee, UKBouldering.
I've got my Cypher Pants (http://www.moonclimbing.com/cypher-pant.html) on with my drawstring done up, 'cos I've got BEN MOON here today!
So... hello Ben."
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Cheers!
And at 3'15", Simon says something about something that "broke you"? Like the Kilnsey project broke Ben?
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"It's just that Northern Lights broke you?"
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:bow:
Now I'm off to lunch, but I'll be back soon to keep bothering you!
Much appreciated.
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Here I am again.
At 5'50" when talking about retaining finger strength, Simon says "I don't think that anybody..." What?
And a little later, what does he ask about Mecca Extension?
Still in the same part, what exactly Simon asks about the kneepad and what exactly Ben says?
I really struggle to understand.
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"I don't think that anybody would dispute that."
@6:18 Simon - "erm, you sort of nearly did mecca extension... twice... apparently"
@6:52 Simon - "and you need, you need to use a knee pad, obviously... oh have you? huh huh HAHAHA HA huh huh"
edit: hope that helps, I may be wrong.
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No no that's perfect. I was nearly there. Many thanks.
But what does Ben say about the kneepad? He used one but... now he has one...
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huh huh HAHAHA HA huh huh
Shark's new signature.
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And again at 11'22" what does Ben say? Before talking about the Tokyo incident?
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No no that's perfect. I was nearly there. Many thanks.
But what does Ben say about the kneepad? He used one but... now he has one...
"...I need to...well i have been using a knee pad. yeh yeh yeh yeh...i've got a knee pad now....I haven't got a cheat stick, but i have used one."
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ALL RIGHT!!! :clap2:
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And again at 11'22" what does Ben say? Before talking about the Tokyo incident?
"...we've had our rows and everything...he's had me in a headlock before."
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Many thanks guys.
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Sorry guys, just a few things.
At 14'40" Shark asks if Ben was annoyed by Rich Simpson getting credit and support for his claim of the Brandler-Hasso onsight solo, right?
And what does Ben reply? "I wasn't the only one...?"
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"I wasn't the only one who was taken in... theses things happen and I'd climbed with him and... y'know he's a strong climber"
Taken in= tricked.
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Many thanks! I had gotten the words then, but didn't know the meaning. Cheers.
So, again at 17'30" what does Simon say?
And just a little later, after saying "Sorry", what does Simon say? "I didn't want to talk about this"? Before the speed rumor.
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So, again at 17'30" what does Simon say?
"It's just another form of cheating"
And just a little later, after saying "Sorry", what does Simon say? "I didn't want to talk about this"? Before the speed rumor.
"Well... I was gonna ask...I can cut this out if you don't want to talk about it.... I was going to leave it to the end, but there's like a rumour..."
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Many, many thanks. Last thing: the bit from 19'02" on, on the matter of mending Graeme's fireplace? Was Ben his tenant? Or what?
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He's Ben's tenant.