UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: remus on May 07, 2023, 07:35:40 am
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Anyone aware of any ascents?
Visiting comp wad Quinn Mason did it recently (https://www.instagram.com/p/CqvedIxr1Dr/) and suggested it could be the FFA. Seems kinda surprising that the FFA of such a popular problem has had to wait so long, especially with the likes of Shauna living 15mins away.
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Surely Mina has done it?
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Mathew Wright
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I have jokingly stated in the past that I'm the smallest person to have done this. I'm 174cm ish with a negative ape index. I googled and Quinn is 172.
All wild speculation but maybe the pool of women tall enough and good enough to do this is quite small?
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I have jokingly stated in the past that I'm the smallest person to have done this. I'm 174cm ish with a negative ape index. I googled and Quinn is 172.
All wild speculation but maybe the pool of women tall enough and good enough to do this is quite small?
Jim Pope might give you a run for your money :lol:
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Pretty sure Popes span is pretty big though?
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I have jokingly stated in the past that I'm the smallest person to have done this. I'm 174cm ish with a negative ape index. I googled and Quinn is 172.
All wild speculation but maybe the pool of women tall enough and good enough to do this is quite small?
A friend who is 167 (I think but might be shorter) did it about 20 years ago. He has a +6(") ape index though. I think how much you can lean away from the side pull is as/more important than your height (with the high foot method).
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Another factor here is that women appear to have a significant genetic disadvantage vs men when it comes to jumping.
Only 7 women in the WNBA have dunked, bizarrely more men have walked on the moon (12). This is despite there being 38 women 6'6" or above having played in the league and the shortest man to dunk in the NBA being only 5'7".
Most of us tend adopt a style that plays to our strengths, I'd hazad a guess that this leads women to avoid big dynos and are less likely to develop good technique on them (like me!).
Sounds like a great effort from Quinn (and also Pope who I'd imagine is the shortest ascentionist, even if it's miles below his limit on paper).
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Great effort Quinn! I don’t know of any other female ascents which is kind of astonishing to me.
People are seriously overestimating by the need to be tall for this. I’m 167 with a negative ape index. I used to find it fine until I broke my ankle on it - now I can’t commit! I’d wager Pete Dawson’s done it and he’s shorter still. Much more important to be springy in the legs
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I’m 167 with a negative ape index. I used to find it fine until I broke my ankle on it - now I can’t commit!
Inspiring Stu. Off to give it a go. Will send pic later from A+E.
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The difference between men and women in jumping is substantially bigger than in running events e.g.
https://commons.nmu.edu/isbs/vol38/iss1/32/
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I was there one CWIF weekend (or maybe BIFF…) and Shauna was giving the WADs a tour; Melissa La Neve was trying it, Janja took one look, shook her head and walked away ;D
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That reminds me I was there a while ago and Melissa le Neve was trying it. Pretty sure she didn't do it, although my abiding memory is more how wonderfully friendly and psyched she was.
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Great effort Quinn! I don’t know of any other female ascents which is kind of astonishing to me.
People are seriously overestimating by the need to be tall for this. I’m 167 with a negative ape index. I used to find it fine until I broke my ankle on it - now I can’t commit! I’d wager Pete Dawson’s done it and he’s shorter still. Much more important to be springy in the legs
Pete hasn’t done it as far as I’m aware. I’m same height as you and find the jump quite bloody hard!
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Impressive stuff Stu. I found it hard and have never managed to repeat it.
It sounds like the only shorter people to do it are also 8b boulderers?
Is it really that rare than shorties do it?
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I'm 167 and I've done it (only once, I found it really hard)
It sounds like the only shorter people to do it are also 8b boulderers?
It sounds like the only shorter people to do it also have also climbed Superman, who would have thought the skillsets for those two would overlap so much.
Dawson needs to step up. Stu, Jim and me all used Deliverance as training for Superman, Pete has done it all in the wrong order.
ps surely Johnny D has done it??
pps I only posted this so I could get to tell everyone I've done Superman and Deliverance. HALAM.
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HALAY. I knew there was a reason you’re my hero.
Pete really needs to stop pissing about at raven Tor and pull his finger out.
Really interesting to find out about the huge differential between men and women in jumping. Makes me wonder if it’s all power based sports or if there’s something specific about jumps.
Definitely puts Quinn’s event into perspective.
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Johnny is on the cover of an old High magazine from 1994 trying Deliverance. No idea if he did it. No pad and luxuriant grass under the problem
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I'm 167 and I've done it (only once, I found it really hard)
It sounds like the only shorter people to do it are also 8b boulderers?
It sounds like the only shorter people to do it also have also climbed Superman, who would have thought the skillsets for those two would overlap so much.
:lol: Does JB lap Superman too?
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And then you have Leon who’s done it one handed :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnpNxJFKnoi/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
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pps I only posted this so I could get to tell everyone I've done Superman and Deliverance. HALAM.
a combinations of the word Halal and Haram.
halal = pure
haram = unpure
Every day is a school day.
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And then you have Leon who’s done it one handed :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnpNxJFKnoi/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
In the comments there Johnny Dawes confirms he did it one handed in 1993, along with West Side Story to the break and NTBA.
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I'm 167 and I've done it (only once, I found it really hard)
It sounds like the only shorter people to do it are also 8b boulderers?
It sounds like the only shorter people to do it also have also climbed Superman, who would have thought the skillsets for those two would overlap so much.
Max Milne did deliverance recently
https://www.instagram.com/p/CqBTGOhD6r6/
he's 166 cm according to his IFSC profile (assuming it's up to date with his final form). No idea if he's done Superman, but I'd imagine he could.
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And then you have Leon who’s done it one handed :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnpNxJFKnoi/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
I'm remember watching Jacob Cook breeze it one handed about 10 years ago. I think he also tried it left hand only, but I can't remember the outcome.
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And then you have Leon who’s done it one handed :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnpNxJFKnoi/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
In the comments there Johnny Dawes confirms he did it one handed in 1993, along with West Side Story to the break and NTBA.
That's a hell of a link-up...
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It sounds like the only shorter people to do it are also 8b boulderers?
Somehow I've done it (167. -2.5 AI) and unless Famous Grouse Sit is still 7C, the nominal 7B+ it's given is my max grade.
Look at me, could be up there with the shittest short persons to have done it.
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It sounds like the only shorter people to do it are also 8b boulderers?
Somehow I've done it (167. -2.5 AI) and unless Famous Grouse Sit is still 7C, the nominal 7B+ it's given is my max grade.
Look at me, could be up there with the shittest short persons to have done it.
Yes yes it is still 7C! I’m not sure how people are doing it but I thought the sit move was quite stiff but added 0 quality to the climb so didn’t bother doing it
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It sounds like the only shorter people to do it are also 8b boulderers?
Somehow I've done it (167. -2.5 AI) and unless Famous Grouse Sit is still 7C, the nominal 7B+ it's given is my max grade.
Look at me, could be up there with the shittest short persons to have done it.
Great stuff! This is either proof that it's actually not to bad for the slightly short or that you're grit wizard!
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And then you have Leon who’s done it one handed :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnpNxJFKnoi/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
I'm remember watching Jacob Cook breeze it one handed about 10 years ago. I think he also tried it left hand only, but I can't remember the outcome.
Left hand is much harder I could do the slab using some really contorted moves but couldn't work out the jump.
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And then you have Leon who’s done it one handed :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnpNxJFKnoi/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
I'm remember watching Jacob Cook breeze it one handed about 10 years ago. I think he also tried it left hand only, but I can't remember the outcome.
Left hand is much harder I could do the slab using some really contorted moves but couldn't work out the jump.
Don't think Jacob has done it LH only.
I also feel like there was a video we'd seen of someone doing it RH only before Jacob did it. But it's going back a few years, I might be wrong.
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And then you have Leon who’s done it one handed :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnpNxJFKnoi/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
I'm remember watching Jacob Cook breeze it one handed about 10 years ago. I think he also tried it left hand only, but I can't remember the outcome.
Left hand is much harder I could do the slab using some really contorted moves but couldn't work out the jump.
Don't think Jacob has done it LH only.
I also feel like there was a video we'd seen of someone doing it RH only before Jacob did it. But it's going back a few years, I might be wrong.
There is footage of Dawid Skoczylas doing it in Consumed you might be thinking of that.
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And then you have Leon who’s done it one handed :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnpNxJFKnoi/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
I'm remember watching Jacob Cook breeze it one handed about 10 years ago. I think he also tried it left hand only, but I can't remember the outcome.
Left hand is much harder I could do the slab using some really contorted moves but couldn't work out the jump.
Don't think Jacob has done it LH only.
I also feel like there was a video we'd seen of someone doing it RH only before Jacob did it. But it's going back a few years, I might be wrong.
There is footage of Dawid Skoczylas doing it in Consumed you might be thinking of that.
It was that. Good knowledge.
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Am I the tallest person on here not to have done it? 6ft 2.
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I'm 5'9" which should put me in the 'tall enough to easily send Deliverance' camp. However.... I had one session on it about 15 years ago and got tantalisingly close (tips on the top). In retrospect, I really wish I'd made the effort to return and seal the deal at the time. Not just because there may have been a FFA up for grabs (tbh I just assumed Leah had done it with her amazing dynamic abilities), but mainly because there's no way my knees or ankles would be up for attempting it these days. C'est la vie...
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Here to join the "tall guys who haven't done it" group. Don't think I've put more than 30 minutes into it though! I'm just proud that I managed to do Trackside the shit reachy way.
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The one time it did Deliverance was via some unapproved crimper's beta (courtesy of Si Moore). This involves front pointing on a pebble, and crimping the edge of the flake. Not sure if this is more or less short person friendly than the standard high foot beta, but it does mean you don't have to lean out as much when winding up for the jump.
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I think I might be the shortest tall man who’s climbed it two-handed whilst still being shit…..
Not sure that warrants some sort of FA label though.
On topic, that’s impressive as it is surprising. I’d assumed that it gets lapped by female wads, especially with all the modern jumpy climbing that goes on, so it’s very interesting to hear that’s not the case.
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Here to join the "tall guys who haven't done it" group. Don't think I've put more than 30 minutes into it though! I'm just proud that I managed to do Trackside the shit reachy way.
The crux is queueing with all the Londons. I failed to overcome this hurdle and haven't returned in the intervening 10 years.
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Don't think I've put more than 30 minutes into it though!
I think I gave it ten minutes at the end of a day, decided it was too warm and I needed skin for tomorrow, and walked away. Felt a bit of a zoo, with half a dozen folk trying it, who had no place there, me included.
I would have thought it had had a lot of female ascents too.
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Am I the tallest person on here not to have done it? 6ft 2.
tomtom is 6' 3, he put longer than ten minutes into it too.
Felt a bit of a zoo, with half a dozen folk trying it, who had no place there.
Just been looking for female ascents on ukc, the number of dnf s listed suggests that goes on a lot
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And didn't Marc Le Menestrel do it static? Flash? On his first day on grit?
He's quite short isn't he?
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The crux is queueing with all the Londons. I failed to overcome this hurdle and haven't returned in the intervening 10 years.
Turn up at 5am on a week day in the middle of summer and it'll just be you and the sheep. :2thumbsup:
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And didn't Marc Le Menestrel do it static? Flash? On his first day on grit?
He's quite short isn't he?
No, Yes, Yes and Yes, respectively.
Marc was the first person (to my knowledge) to use the high right foot method, which is where the “static” myth comes from. This was about 97 I guess,
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And didn't Marc Le Menestrel do it static? Flash? On his first day on grit?
He's quite short isn't he?
No, Yes, Yes and Yes, respectively.
Marc was the first person (to my knowledge) to use the high right foot method, which is where the “static” myth comes from. This was about 97 I guess,
Wasn’t this the same trip when he did Brad Pit with the ultimate technique mantle rock over method? IMO the most aesthetic beta?
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Same day. Possibly the same hour.
Best bit of climbing I’ve ever witnessed.
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Turn up at 5am on a week day in the middle of summer and it'll just be you and the sheep. :2thumbsup:
I might cycle up there with my Spanish spotter. Job done.
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tomtom is 6' 3, he put longer than ten minutes into it too.
Darn, outlanked.
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Wasn’t this the same trip when he did Brad Pit with the ultimate technique mantle rock over method?
Can anyone describe in more detail what this is?
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Wasn’t this the same trip when he did Brad Pit with the ultimate technique mantle rock over method?
Can anyone describe in more detail what this is?
Toe on the rail, see Ben Moon in hard grit for a demo. Jason Myers did the FA with some wild low feet smearing on nothing, the heel beta came along at a later date.
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Toe on the rail, see Ben Moon in hard grit for a demo. Jason Myers did the FA with some wild low feet smearing on nothing, the heel beta came along at a later date.
Or that controversial OTE cover. I think in all honesty the heel beta came along after the over-brushing of the rail improved it to the point where a heel was feasible.
RE the OP - I'm on the short man (5 foot 6 and a bit), nearly-but-not-quite list for Deliverance. Hand my hand on the top and dropped it a couple of times. Think that ship may have sailed with my middle-aged knees and ankles now!
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Marc was the first person (to my knowledge) to use the high right foot method, which is where the “static” myth comes from. This was about 97 I guess
Pretty sure this is how Johnny says he did it in the early neineties. Marc may have been the first to do the direct start though, and certainly the first (and probably the only) to onsight the whole problem including direct start and high foot with the only beta offered (from me) being disregarded.
Brad Pit with the ultimate technique mantle rock over method? IMO the most aesthetic beta?
Having done both, no way is the toe more aesthetic than the heel. It's much more powerful and has a really bunched and grotty match move. When you get the position right the heel method is one of the most beautiful moves on grit, you don't need to match or even use any of the intermediates.
I think in all honesty the heel beta came along after the over-brushing of the rail improved it to the point where a heel was feasible
Nonsense. The heel bit has barely changed since before MleM came along - I remember Sharma experimenting with the heel before it had been repeated.
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What's the worst heeled shoe it's been done with? (BP not Deliverpants)
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What's the worst heeled shoe it's been done with? (BP not Deliverpants)
Pretty sure Bosi did it in a sample pair of high top Wild Country shoes
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I don't think the heel leavened placement changed on BP, the hand holds got a bit more positive post the early ascents I think.