UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Bonjoy on March 20, 2014, 01:05:13 pm
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As per Kristain's sensible suggestion, here's a sticky thread specifically for reporting problems that have been cleaned up.
I'll kick off with Face Arete in the Cratcliffe area :-\. Cleaned yesterday. I also sealed the low foothold on the arete which was eroding badly.
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I'll kick off with Face Arete in the Cratcliffe area. Cleaned yesterday. I also sealed the low foothold on the arete which was eroding badly.
Good work on the maintenance, but aren't there access issues (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=630) in that area?
Wouldn't want the landowners getting wind of discrete activity that has gone unnoticed and then kicking up a fuss to the BMC.
Dave & Scouse D showing that Isla Grace is pretty clean at the moment (was in someones video they posted the other day too)...
Decent roadside highball 6c/old E6 Isla Grace at Froggatt tonight. Thanks to the lads that cleaned this up, get it while its hot (https://twitter.com/TheDaveParry/status/446356389209079808)
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BjHqeBxIYAInHEZ.jpg)
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Me, Flax and some keen yoofs cleaned off the Percy's Roof block at Cratcliffe last sunday so hopefully that should stay in nick for a while. 72 is a nice steep 7A on good holds, P Crack looks horrendous!
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Did P Crack again about a year ago. It's tricky but seemed right at 7b. It does get filthy again very quick!
Slackline- i'll edit relevant posts to avoid venue naming. Sadly the place is getting very overgrown. IMO it needs a certain level of covert traffic.
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Did P Crack again about a year ago. It's tricky but seemed right at 7b.
Yeah I was pretty knackered by then and not up for stabbing into fingerlocks! Will get back at some point.
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Slackline- i'll edit relevant posts to avoid venue naming. Sadly the place is getting very overgrown. IMO it needs a certain level of covert traffic.
That would be a real shame if its lost to nature. I only managed to visit once before the current ban but thought it was a lovely spot with some great problems. I've no objection to people doing their own thing though as long as its considerate to the sensitive nature of access (and I'm not insinuating you would do otherwise).
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I've cleaned Shy Boy at Chatsworth. Well worth doing, quite technical, font 7a ish
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I've cleaned Shy Boy at Chatsworth. Well worth doing, quite technical, font 7a ish
I thought it was totally brilliant. A little bit scrittly through lack of traffic but the sequence of climbing is amazing. It's also easy to traverse off at the break if you don't fancy the prospect of a green VS arete to get to the top.
It's not actually that high, just the landing is a bit slopey. Nice to have a spotter.
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Good work. Did this years ago and thought it was great.
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Angel Falls at Seagull Tor was clean a few weeks ago.
I've recently cleaned T Bone Wilson, Chinese Cadbury Wolf and Tasty Yellow Beef at Black Garden. Forest Casual should clean up quickly, not tried this one but the arête is clean both sides
Conditions have been okay in the shade on my 2 visits recently and the top sloper on T Bone has been well cleaned.
I found it best to drop straight down the slope and then it's a flat 30m to the block. I've pad rolled a path down through the undergrowth to lead the way.
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Good work! You climbed many of them?
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Yes but couldn't do the sit start to T Bone. Sussed the method now but it's pretty aggressive on the right groin and aggravates an already aggravated old injury (sorry excuse) - will have another visit in the Autumn - it should stay clean for a while now. It still makes a really good 6c as a stand start. CC Wolf was okay but I uncovered a side pull just under the moss line that you can see on BMC Guide photo which makes it a bit easier if used. The description's brief - do you remember finishing with RH in the pocket or crossing and finishing as T Bone?
Great boulder.
Angel Falls is quality too.
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Think I finished further left than T bone, but it was a long time ago...
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Yeah I was pretty knackered by then and not up for stabbing into fingerlocks! Will get back at some point.
I did that problem and I ended up with an infected finger and had to go to the doctor! Good skin cruncher. Like a finger crack version of Savage me Softly at back of Stanage.
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Everything except the 6b to the hole is cleaned on Black and Deckout butress (Blackwell Dale). The stuff on the right is much better than it looks. Haven't done B&D yet but that looks excellent. Emlyn added a great 7a highball to the left of this. Will put details and photo on new probs thread when he thinks of a name :jab: (he didn't rate my suggestion of Young, Gifted and Black).
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good name!
He could call it Berlin Tears after the time he got rejected from The Watergate. . .
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Whilst on the Doug-less boulder (Roaches Lower Tier) yesterday we re-cleaned Rumour and Scratchy Scoop. The latter is a brilliant palming scoop entry problem just right of the carved steps, it’s a harsh sand bag at the book grades of V3 and 6A, 6C seemed more like it. Definitely worth a detour.
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Gave Pigs Make Nests at B South a ab and a good de-scrittle today, couldn't suss it out though, thought I was on the money slapping lh to obvious crimp/sloper but seems to lead no where.... Anyway, good problem and now not scrittly.
Going to clean Barrel Organist and Glorious Gritstone Mantelshelf tomorrow aswell, looked good problems and fine with one pad.
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Whilst on the Doug-less boulder (Roaches Lower Tier) yesterday we re-cleaned Rumour and Scratchy Scoop. The latter is a brilliant palming scoop entry problem just right of the carved steps, it’s a harsh sand bag at the book grades of V3 and 6A, 6C seemed more like it. Definitely worth a detour.
I agree about Scratchy Scoop being good and good value but 6c seems a bit steep (provided its clean), has anyone had a go at the project hanging nose to the right? It looks absolutely impossible!
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Whilst on the Doug-less boulder (Roaches Lower Tier) yesterday we re-cleaned Rumour and Scratchy Scoop. The latter is a brilliant palming scoop entry problem just right of the carved steps, it’s a harsh sand bag at the book grades of V3 and 6A, 6C seemed more like it. Definitely worth a detour.
I agree about Scratchy Scoop being good and good value but 6c seems a bit steep (provided its clean), has anyone had a go at the project hanging nose to the right? It looks absolutely impossible!
TBH I suspect what we climbed might be a direct version of the line rather than a line of least resistance, which would be to start slightly left of the scoop, turn the lip then pad across the scoop. As the guides are vague and no holds where clean it wasn't possible for us to tell. If anything 6C is a bit harsh for the problem we did. There is a logged ascent on UKC in March this year, which can't have been via the direct way as the holds where mega scrittley and could not have been used that recently.
Regards your question: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24784.0/topicseen.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24784.0/topicseen.html)
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/ByHw46ZIUAAwxq7.jpg)
You can see the cleaned holds on the scoop.
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Great photo, what about calling it 'West Lothian'?
As to the scoop, yes we did it entering from the left, from memory I'd suggest 6c via your method might be a bit of a sandbag.
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Between me and Gritlad the Barrel Organist block at Froggatt is now clean. This is a good wall but rarely dry and even less often clean and dry, so if you aspire to doing all the best 7as in the area it’s worth getting in there now. BO is the best thing, I didn’t fancy the jump start so did it with a static pull on from some little slopers, a bit harder I guess but still 7a overall. Glorious Gritstone mantel is a bit of a vague 7a+ line just right, again with a jump start, I didn’t do it, it seemed quite tough. I dare say Iain may have already done the obvious line of flakes just right but it’s not in the guides, will stick it on pb.info as Scraping the Barrel 6A.
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Checked out Denham quarry on Saturday after Robin's guide motivated me to go back to my childhood crag.
Spent the afternoon cleaning the loose flakes off and stabilising the damaged rock after the fire a couple of years ago which trashed the crux section of the "Denham Traverse" and the direct "Crack Pot".
I re-climbed the traverse - we've lost a fair few of the small holds from the original and the new line goes slightly higher than the old one - IIRC actually only using one "new" hand hold (and a few new foot nubbins) so it's changed the crux of the problem quite significantly, though not the grade.
http://youtu.be/4vLol0ml-Pw (http://youtu.be/4vLol0ml-Pw)
The direct through the fire damage "Crack Pot" is probably climbable, but the first hand hold is still crumbly so take care (the hold near my waist at about 1:30). I didn't do it - so your call.
I also abbed and cleaned the un-repeated Snatch 8A - supposedly has a broken hold (what I think will be the last hold before the jug for me) but should still be possible, and Nik tells me he didn't use this on his FA. Had a few goes before my skin gave up but certainly doable as it is now with some big pads and strong fingers.
Jordan also flashed the 7C+ in baby Denham, No Tome for Losers.
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I've also been in touch with safestyle UK about clearing up their marketing and customer data which has been fly-tipped and half burned in the quarry.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26073249/safestyle%20pics/IMG_2513.jpg)
They've got back to me and are off to clear it up, and will let me know when they have!
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I've also been in touch with safestyle UK about clearing up their marketing and customer data which has been fly-tipped and half burned in the quarry
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26073249/safestyle%20pics/IMG_2513.jpg (http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26073249/safestyle%20pics/IMG_2513.jpg)
They've got back to me and are off to clear it up, and will let me know when they have!
Pic link wouldnt embed for some reason...
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Good work JR, make sure they take them 2 boulders as well before I have to watch vids of r-man climbing on them next wk
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Cheers Dense.
Actually re-looking at the guide the 'Crack Pot' problem is still ok - it's 'Crap Pot' that's had the fire damage and has the fragile hold... I'm sure you'll all be rushing there ;)
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Great work JR! The stabilisation work has needed doing for a while, Really good that you got Safestyle to agree to tidy up.
I'm amazed that so many people seem to be heading straight to the quarries rather than the natural grit, but it's great to know other people like these places too.
I've added the reclimbed Denham Traverse + video to the new problems page, the idea being that people can skim read this before they visit a venue. http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/projects/ (http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/projects/)
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Safestyle sent me a message to say they've been and cleared the fly-tipping up at Denham - which is a good result and credit to them. Is anyone local able to check and send me a pic so I can get back to them if there's still any issues?
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Myself and Mark20 cleaned and climbed Jonboys Cider Women Direct and also Grimoire today at Cratcliffe and thought they were both well good.
Really good additions to the circuit around there, both around 7A too.
Cider Women is fine with only about 3 pads too.
gritlad on grimoire (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwWmiGpROrk#ws)
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Brilliant, yonks since I did that. In fact it was so dirty last time I forgot where you went.
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Mid week bastards
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Good work, quality highballs. Someone needs to highball Quercus. I did it with runners at E4 6b but it would be much better as a high 7a.
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All the highballs on the block at Black Rocks (Velvet Silence etc.) are clean now.
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The Black Garden on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119498735)
Here we go. Great bunch of cleaned up stuff.
Cheers to Bolehill Billy for giving it a scrub back in summer, made cleaning today pretty easy.
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Loads of clean highballs at Wyming Brook at the moment. In addition to Esoteric Slab which 205chris gave a good clean last year, we have
Superbrook 7B, neo classic
Silent Witness 6C (E6 6b), high but flat landing, good moves and rock.
Half Man Half Cake 6B (E4 6b), big lock for the pocket. might be useful to take a rope for the easy finish?
'ere Com Fudgie 6B (E4 6b), thanks to Bonjoy for cleaning this last year. Steep and fun, 'sport climbing'
my platform under A Man In The Woods 6B? (E4 6a) still looks good but you might want a runner for the top.
It's probably still worth taking a rope and harness to give them a quick clean first. Good tree belays. Graeme Hammond is in the process of cleaning some of the easier trad routes too
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Cleaned Bath House Pink at Burbage South just before Easter. Great little highball, down as 7B/+ on UKC but felt more like font 7A+ ? Eases with height and felt ok without a spotter. Mad Llechtim nearby is similar and also very good, font 6C
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Yeah, 7A+ tops. Good one. It's always been a tad dirty. I took Honnold on a soloing circuit here once and thought this might slow him down, given that he had brand new sportivas on. It didn't.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0xh-rdptgk
The right choice of music Mark ;D
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Most stuff in the Churnet that I've been to recently is in really good nick.
Re- cleaned the Aniseed Slab lines last night whilst adding a couple of new problems to it's right hand side.
Highball Churnet slabs? :-\
Decent climbing on this block (not the pebble roulette you might anticipate).
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Brilliant, was on my list to give them their annual clean next week, now I don't have to :thumbsup:
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Cleaned the first half of the traverse at dog's dinner
and brock the start is now all clean
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P crack, 72 and 72 direct all clean and sorted the landing out on p crack. Minimal pruning to the tree behind as well. Brilliant problems.
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P crack, 72 and 72 direct all clean and sorted the landing out on p crack. Minimal pruning to the tree behind as well. Brilliant problems.
Good man, might head down tomorrow.
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Good effort cleaning the P-crack block gritters. Anyone got a sequence on P-crack?
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Good effort cleaning the P-crack block gritters. Anyone got a sequence on P-crack?
I don't remember beta being much of an issue. Good problem.
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Any photos of P-crack kicking around?
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Good effort cleaning the P-crack block gritters. Anyone got a sequence on P-crack?
I don't remember beta being much of an issue. Good problem.
Useful! Although beta wasn't the issue on egg arête either, was it?
Doubt there are many pics about Dave, it's a very gloomy spot.
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Start matched in the pocket, rh to roof pocket then Lf on back wall on some shelfy thing near hueco, RF toe hook in hueco, deep left drop knee and slap rh to lip and Lh to roof pocket, wildly stab into a rh Gaston jam in base of crack, flag out right and come into layback with the Lh, LF to smallish edge near the lip hold, rh out to a sharp hold out right and then lay one on for glory. (Tried laybacking the crack to the top but this felt desperate) it all felt hard for 7b to be honest.
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Thanks! I think Percy gave it V8+ originally. Managed a similar move out but couldn't match or get to the crack, then whatever I did with the crack I ended up sat on the block.
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I have some very poor shots which don't add much, and it was 11 years ago but it looks like I've got a RH finger lock in the crack, my RF out right, LF flagging and my LH on some crimp or something to the left of the crack.
From the direction my beady eyes are looking, I suspect I'm about to put my LF up in the roof and come over to layback the crack with LH.
Also, in the photos I look quite fat, so it can't be that hard.
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Useful! Although beta wasn't the issue on egg arête either, was it?
Sorry, wasn't trying to be awkward, was just trying not to dissuade you from going to try it without beta.
I can't add anything to what Stu said. We did it at the same time so I probably used the same sequence. I only remember laybacking the crack with my left to go to the top, Eclipse style.
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Cheers, I did it 11 years ago too, only when I got there realised I couldn't remember a thing.
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I have some very poor shots which don't add much, and it was 11 years ago but it looks like I've got a RH finger lock in the crack, my RF out right, LF flagging and my LH on some crimp or something to the left of the crack.
From the direction my beady eyes are looking, I suspect I'm about to put my LF up in the roof and come over to layback the crack with LH.
Also, in the photos I look quite fat, so it can't be that hard.
Are you in full Mexican or just a poncho?
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I can't really take any of the credit (thank Mark20) but Gathering Storm and Green Chapel were dry and climbable today.
Most of the Stanton in the Woods circuit was looking clean and chalked too.
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That's good news. I was planning a vist and a reclean of a few bits at stanton woods in the next few weeks. I'm guessing the big slab below Eyes is still a bit green?
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That's good news. I was planning a vist and a reclean of a few bits at stanton woods in the next few weeks. I'm guessing the big slab below Eyes is still a bit green?
Sorry - must have missed this the other day. Didn't look closely I'm afraid but I don't think the slab was clean.
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That's good news. I was planning a vist and a reclean of a few bits at stanton woods in the next few weeks. I'm guessing the big slab below Eyes is still a bit green?
Sorry - must have missed this the other day. Didn't look closely I'm afraid but I don't think the slab was clean.
Yes, very mossed over.
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I can't really take any of the credit (thank Mark20 and Highrepute)
Thanks for the cleaning chaps.
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I cleaned and climbed Wangatan near Secret Garden yesterday. Obviously it'll get pretty damp over the weekend but it's almost scrittle-free at the moment and the top-out is clear of moss. It looked to have been cleaned sometime in the recent past too (possibly Monkey Boy of this parish judging by the video on peakbouldering) so I can't take all the credit.
It's a great problem and deserves at least a non-bold star. I could have done with a spotter and more than two pads though as the landing isn't perfect. I cleaned some moss and lichen off the top of the 7A to the left but it needs more work.
The 7A on the Bigmouth boulder is also in good clean nick at the moment and worth doing on the way to Wangatan. I didn't think it was a gift at the grade!
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Yep monkey boy cleaned it a while ago
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Cleaned, removed turf and climbed the highball blunt arete right of gingerbread slab at lawrencefield today. Felt about 6A, really great climbing with a big slap to the top. Anyone know if this has been done before?
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I cleaned and climbed Wangatan near Secret Garden yesterday. Obviously it'll get pretty damp over the weekend but it's almost scrittle-free at the moment and the top-out is clear of moss. It looked to have been cleaned sometime in the recent past too (possibly Monkey Boy of this parish judging by the video on peakbouldering) so I can't take all the credit.
It's a great problem and deserves at least a non-bold star. I could have done with a spotter and more than two pads though as the landing isn't perfect. I cleaned some moss and lichen off the top of the 7A to the left but it needs more work.
The 7A on the Bigmouth boulder is also in good clean nick at the moment and worth doing on the way to Wangatan. I didn't think it was a gift at the grade!
Glad it's getting some attention. Great problem I thought
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Cleaned, removed turf and climbed the highball blunt arete right of gingerbread slab at lawrencefield today. Felt about 6A, really great climbing with a big slap to the top. Anyone know if this has been done before?
Sounds good, got any pics? I can't picture it.
A bit further along, I gave Boonapi a good clean a few months ago, looks like its been getting a few ascents since, so hopefully will stay clean for a bit now. Great, thin, crimpy slab.
Whilst I'm here
I cleaned Computer Says No at Froggatt (below the road nr the hairpin), a highball techy wall on seams. It will still be worth taking a short rope to clean, and waiting a couple dry days before trying it though as the cracks can stay a bit damp after rain.
Toby and highrepute have cleaned Dreamboat and The Captain (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=22237.0) recently, and removed some trees that had fallen onto the latter :2thumbsup:
And I have glued the flexing flake on Dogs Die in Hot Cars and a good effort from Neil and Matt who filled the hole in landing with birch logs, this now makes a spooky highball, hard 7B
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Geometer at Guisecliff has fallen fowl of the creeping green. I attempted a clean but didn't have my gardening equipment to hand so I couldn't give it a proper clean. A shame, as it's an ace climb.
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I walked through padley gorge with the dog the other day and someone has built a fairly substantial den around mossatrocity. Didn't have time to clear it unfortunately but if you are heading there it'd be worth pulling it all apart before it gets too wet and green. I then went on to crash and write off my beloved van on the way home. Shit day. NNFN!
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Green chapel and eyes to the skies got a spruce today.
Does anyone else think green chapel is stiff at 7a?
The two problems seemed miles apart to me, could of been temps I suppose.
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I then went on to crash and write off my beloved van on the way home. Shit day. NNFN!
Sorry to hear that :(
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Salad Fingers Block at Cocking Tor got a good clean up a treatment a couple of weeks back. It usually suffers a bit from a drainage line down the middle but hopefully this will be less of an issue for a while now. There's also a good new problem to the left of Salad Fingers at 7a/7a+ Rusty Spoons. The problems on the right arête both felt tough for the grade though some cooler conditions might help!
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Did Rusty Spoons today. Good addition. I assume it goes up left of the tree at the top. Re climbed both sides of the right arete too. Agree the RHS is a bit undergraded - seemed like 6c from stand and 7a from sitting ( harder than Rusty Spoons)
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Hmmm a bit vague and I even got the new name wrong -thanks for the edit/correction. It was still a bit damp on the finish the day it was cleaned. I did the left arête RHS problem (very good too) and finished using a grizzly hand jam under the tree for a bit of security and topped out left of it but then couldn't do the new line. From memory my more capable accomplice did finish straight up and left of the tree using the sloping edge/s.
I did wonder whether there was a possible RH version making more use of the seam feature between this and SF?
Great lump of grit and the closest to the road too so might see a bit more attention with 3 decent 7s on it now.
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I finished between arete and tree. You do have to grab some veg though once the rock runs out. On reflextion it felt no harder than 6C, doubtless due to much better connies than date of FA, it is friction dependant.
I gave the top of Jeremy Fisher a proper clean, including trundling the scary block wedged in top break (came out very easily by hand!).
Had a look at Cherubs Bit etc at Turning Stone. Deffo needs a re-garden. Bushes needed cutting back and rock starting to get mossy again.
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Did Rusty Spoons today, good addition. Also thought it was easier than Jeremy Fisher which was also very good (by that I mean the arete on it's right - I think you've got the name the wrong way round on your topo Bolehillbilly?)
Good work on the cleaning, it's worth folk getting there before they get vegetated again, and whilst Rusty Spoons is still a soft 7 tick ;)
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Good stuff and feedback, nice to see it get some attention. Yeah it was 25C and humid back in the September heat wave so grades were a bit of a guess.
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De-mossed The Mantelist at Rowtor at the weekend
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I had a go at cleaning Strange Attractor on the Boathouse Bluff at Eavestone. It's E3 6a or highball 6B in the guide. Looks really special. On abseil I couldn't see it ever being 6B, looked miles harder. It needs time to dry but could be an incredible highball come spring with a little extra work.
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Pic here. It's the obvious groove, finishing direct.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/777/32359691091_4808b905c3_z.jpg)
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Always thought this looked good. Has anyone done the groove to the left (looks hard, including the treemauling topout)? Spied this and that arete you mentioned on open proj thread. You may also have spotted a line nearby that I cleaned on a rope, including de-mucking the topout, but couldn't try as was very wet on the day (keen to go back for this).
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Have sent you a PM.
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I have done this. I actually led it with a rope and runners during one of my comebacks, not the current one mind. It might have been clean then as it was around the time Big Dave was developing the place.
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Who actually owns Eavestone? A bit of tree cutting would make it an even better place.
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I've moved the two boulders that spoilt the landing on Master Chef at Millstone back a metre or so. The prob now has a great landing and it's no longer possible to skip hard moves by launching off the block (as per both videoed ascents on peakbouldering.info). Also no excuse not to top out!
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Nice one. On the subject of Masterchef, is the side wall in for right foot like in this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9Gomc9LYEU ?
Me and a mate did it like Matt in the video some time last year. Nice moves but felt maybe a bit too easy for 7B? Didn't get very far trying it without the side wall as far as I recall....
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I used the back wall. I think it would feel pretty contrived not using it as your leg naturally flags out towards it. I suspect maybe folk used the backwall question as an excuse to start off the boulder.
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Nice one Jon.
I eliminated the side wall - Take the LH as more of a sidepull and face left, RH sloper, high left foot and spin round onto it catching the arete with the RH. Really cool move
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Nice one Jon.
I eliminated the side wall - Take the LH as more of a sidepull and face left, RH sloper, high left foot and spin round onto it catching the arete with the RH. Really cool move
Master Chef: The Professionals
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I think Scouse and I did it starting matched on that edge, pulled up, highish left foothold, rock onto it, then did some weird combo of moves where LH went over right to the arete then there was some footwork to get a high right foot then up from there. Twisty, contorted and shouldery, was a great unusual set of moves. Don't remember using the back wall.
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From the sequence I did I doubt missing the back wall would make much difference difficulty wise, but it would feel forced, hence thinking it would be pointless to have it as a rule of the problem. Especially as the rule would have to be scrapped for the sitter.
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Have you got any numbers on the sitter?
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No. It's not obvious how you even pull on. Seem to remember it being given 7c+ by the FA. Guess it's only a couple of moves into the stand.
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Treebeard at Sutton Clough has been done today so will be completely clean. It's a king line so well worth coming up for if you live in a different area. Remember to bring a modest trad rack and a rope for the spotter. If either of you falls into the Clough then you're definitely definitely dead. It's that thing that Mark Katz does in This Is Yorkshire. Guide here:
https://unknownstones.com/sutton/
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Brilliant weather for getting weird green probs that never dry done at the moment:
Jamie Lilleman has cleaned up Gibsonitis 7b at Froggatt. It's good quality wide fridge hugging, well worth an evening hit.
Sam Lawson has cleaned up Mansize at Ramshaw. It's had a few ascents and is confirmed as awesome and deffo worth grabbing while it is in condition (it rarely is).
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I dug the dead bracken cornice off Adi's Wall at Baildon Bank. It's a nice 7A with a spooky pebble pulling finish. This is good, as is the neighbouring 7A highball Suggy's Wall which is really really good.
I took some uninspiring pics and put them on instatwat.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BUCrXv6jKwe/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BUKd8UHDgr2/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BUKhc5sjPcU/
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Nice one Will, these problems (and Baildon generally) saved me during foot-and-mouth.
(http://adamlong.co.uk/files/AL-baildon-.jpg)
Jamie Lilleman has cleaned up Gibsonitis 7b at Froggatt. It's good quality wide fridge hugging, well worth an evening hit.
PS we did this and it was good. 7b may be generous.
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I agree, standard 7a+
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Nine Pebble Slab at Froggatt now cleaned and with flattened landing. Probably want about 3/4 pads and a spot, quality highball 7A. In the woods just to the left of Glass slipper (as you look at the crag)
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A few of us scrubbed the problem 72 at Cratcliffe today (below Hueco wall).
Both the original and direct probably deserve a little star when clean and can easily be tagged onto a trip to Hueco wall.
We also did them from a lower, logical start on a flat triangular hold as opposed to the pocket mentioned in the guide book. Probably makes it a tad harder, but no overall change in grade.
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Cheers Chris :great: Went down and did 72 early this morning. Been wanting to try this for a while. Pointed a few other folk in that direction so might have had a few ascents today.
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Pic here. It's the obvious groove, finishing direct.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/777/32359691091_4808b905c3_z.jpg)
A mate did this recently, so it's obviously climbable now. They did some further de-mossing at the top. They did it with two mats and said it was scrittly, a tad pokey, but OK.
Worth mentioning that the thing to the left which Jon mentioned further up the page has been done:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=474689
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That guy in the background looks pretty hench, can I sponsor him?
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Dug the grass off the top of Registered Rhymenecologist at the far end of Baslow a few days ago. Great highball .
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1922/43077685760_43cb48bfbf_b.jpg)
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RR is a great bit of esoterica. Did you finish direct over the capping block? It was knee deep in turf when I did the problem so I rocked left onto the big foothold at the top of the arete.
On a side note, is that Neil in the photo? If so, great to see him back on the rock again.
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Dug the grass off the top of Registered Rhymenecologist at the far end of Baslow a few days ago. Great highball .
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1922/43077685760_43cb48bfbf_b.jpg)
Good job Mark. I had a look at this last winter and thought it looked really great. Much foreshortened in your photo and the topout looked tricky.
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I finished same as you I think Andy- RH on the capping block and rocking onto the cleaned ledge on the left arête arête. It seemed the logical finish.
Its a bit foreshortened, bear in mind that’s a big Moon pad at the bottom. And Neil is about 6ft 4 !
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Cleaned:
Chin Mania 7A and Chin Grinder 7A+ at Froggatt (below Downes' Buttress)
Chin Mania is nice - good rock, pleasant climbing and a decent landing, can either swing more left and mantle into scoop or go slightly more direct.
Chin Grinder is actually a lot better than it looks - more independent and better climbing than I expected. It would probably make a decent highball with a few pads - I didn't have any but I had played on the moves on a rope whilst cleaning it, it was soft for E6 as a headpoint but would prob feel it os (with no pads) didn't really inspect the landing too much, it's a bit sloping.
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I've done a load of spray on Instagram already but just think it's worth putting the word out as widely as possible.
The Satellite Boulder on the Chevin is in great nick. Very dry tonight, no seepage. Gemenid Trail, Under A Full Moon, and one of the hard things to its right were clean. I brushed up The Radiant which had lost its finishing holds to moss. The tree cover is still comprehensive so it should stand up to a good bit of rain before it wets out. Get to it!
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Cleaned up Physical Graffiti on the Quarry Buttress at Black Rocks, opposite the Railway Slab. E3 6b in guide but good highball 6C, climbs much better than it looks.
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My Orange at Froggatt and Cut Throat Snakes are both cleaned and ready for attention.
https://vimeo.com/297541555
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That looks fantastic. Yet another for the list. Nice one cleaning it up.
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It is fantastic! Get it before the lichen does ;)
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Black Tor - The Looking Glass 7A+ black star int guide. Free of scrittle and obviously bone. Desperate though - I couldn’t get off the deck (assuming it’s not a French start). Other stuff up there well scrubbed. Didn’t get as far as Seldom Seen Kid.
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cleaned up cut throat snake month ago and gave it small re-brush today, real nice mantle
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guplets on toast and darkstar both cleaned, waiting for ascents :popcorn:
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Brushed off a load of the muck below the drainage streaks at Conies today - mostly the streak under Lamiche/Beak Forest, plus a bit under Lamprecht/Simpson. As dry as I’ve seen it.
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Cleaned up Containment at Bentley Brook yesterday.
A low sidepull has broken off and it's been repeated, though not by me. We could fathom a sequence onto the top arete without the hold, but on the only videos I've seen people also used the missing hold for their left foot to unlock the top section.
Be curious if anyone goes and does it what the new beta is.