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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: remus on April 26, 2021, 08:55:44 am

Title: Persian Dawn, 8c+ FA at Raven Tor for Buster Martin
Post by: remus on April 26, 2021, 08:55:44 am: Direct finish to make it funky on some ratty little crimps. Top effort finding some unclimbed rock at the tor!

https://www.instagram.com/p/COFsT7Yjtot/
Title: Re: Persian Dawn, 8c+ FA at Raven Tor for Buster Martin
Post by: Ru on April 26, 2021, 09:27:53 am: Interested to know the sequence on this. I tried it a bit, years ago, with a hard (font 7c+/8a) ratty crimp sequence. I then tried it again with Rich Simpson, who spanned past all the ratty crimps and did the moves relatively easily (could still have been pretty hard though - hard to tell with Simpson, he was still really strong at burly stuff). I then gave up as I thought that I'd battle with a hard sequence only to have it downgraded afterwards.
Title: Re: Persian Dawn, 8c+ FA at Raven Tor for Buster Martin
Post by: 36chambers on April 26, 2021, 09:30:48 am: Quote from: Ru on April 26, 2021, 09:27:53 am
I then gave up as I thought that I'd battle with a hard sequence only to have it downgraded afterwards.

I know that feeling
Title: Re: Persian Dawn, 8c+ FA at Raven Tor for Buster Martin
Post by: abarro81 on April 26, 2021, 12:09:24 pm: Quote from: Ru on April 26, 2021, 09:27:53 am
Interested to know the sequence on this.

https://www.instagram.com/p/COIGdOMj1u8/
Title: Re: Persian Dawn, 8c+ FA at Raven Tor for Buster Martin
Post by: Ru on April 26, 2021, 12:34:19 pm: Awesome. Similar sequence to the one I tried, except I wasn't clever enough to put a heel in and it looks like there's a hold out right. Those left crimps are indeed ratty. Much worse than the Evo ones, but the heel may take some weight.
Title: Re: Persian Dawn, 8c+ FA at Raven Tor for Buster Martin
Post by: crimpingandy on April 26, 2021, 12:34:56 pm: Remember trying this with Rich H or Rupert along time ago in a galaxy.....

Seem to remember a big span (for me at least) from the undercut to a mono or 2 finger side pull/undercut then bouling over to a good hold. Ring any bells Ru?

Felt like it would be quite a bit harder especially after the bottom bit

Remember the day Zippy latched the flake and the rather large bellow that followed😀

Good effort Buster
Title: Re: Persian Dawn, 8c+ FA at Raven Tor for Buster Martin
Post by: User deactivated on April 26, 2021, 12:38:11 pm: Quote from: 36chambers on April 26, 2021, 09:30:48 am
Quote from: Ru on April 26, 2021, 09:27:53 am
I then gave up as I thought that I'd battle with a hard sequence only to have it downgraded afterwards.

I know that feeling

Doesn't everyone?
Title: Re: Persian Dawn, 8c+ FA at Raven Tor for Buster Martin
Post by: Ru on April 26, 2021, 12:43:36 pm: Quote from: crimpingandy on April 26, 2021, 12:34:56 pm
Seem to remember a big span (for me at least) from the undercut to a mono or 2 finger side pull/undercut then bouling over to a good hold. Ring any bells Ru?

That wasn't the way I tried it (didn't have the span), but it looked the way it would get done. Looking at the video Buster used a hold out right that I haven't seen before, before going to the slopey crimp on the method I tried, then using the two finger thing as an intermediate thumbsprag.

I'm always amazed how fresh eyes and more strength change how bits of rock are perceived.