UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Duma on March 10, 2021, 07:00:59 pm
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Manu Cornu with more hard font:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMPTEKzJOzj/?igshid=7rzxr51qvddd
Really psyched to try the stand to this one day
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Not quite sure how it relates to this:
https://bleau.info/desert/20561.html
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Cool to see it being done with a direct finish, I've only ever seen vids but always thought it was a bit odd that it traverses off right past the tree.
Here he is doing the non-jump start stand:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CH0mJqYpcxy/?igshid=p0xhu50k4kla
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Cool to see this one get done!
Here's a viddy of Jimmy Webb working the assis, in case anyone hasn't seen it already.
https://youtu.be/7ZvpY7d1-24?t=80
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God, I miss Font! That looks amazing (and way to hard for me). I presume you head straight up the face above using the obvious chalked hold in the middle. Since it looks like you trend right for the stand (and presumably the non-direct sit too).
https://vimeo.com/164697543
Edit - yeah, just watched Bradders Link. That makes sense.
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Direct finish looks much better aye!
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Dutch climber Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen climbed this last Sunday and thought 8C, I'm not sure whether he climbed it before Manu or how he finished. Finishing direct is no harder, and definitely not a different problem, makes sense though. Although it's a bit odd you get to hold some cool holds finishing with the traverse.
Jeremy finishes direct in this video -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84yGp8vUuhA
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Yeah the bleau.info page is from the RH finish i guess, mentions was only done on Sunday. Does seem odd that going direct would bump it a grade.
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Looks like Manu has given up on "cool" haircuts, my son will be gutted.
Amazing looking problem, classic Font.
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Dutch climber Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen climbed this last Sunday and thought 8C, I'm not sure whether he climbed it before Manu or how he finished. Finishing direct is no harder, and definitely not a different problem, makes sense though.
MN did the FA. Tried to keep it under the radar apparently ::)
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how did that work out for him?
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MN did the FA. Tried to keep it under the radar apparently ::)
Was that because he wasn’t meant to be in Font due to travel restrictions? Not sure what the restrictions are like on the mainland now.
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MN did the FA. Tried to keep it under the radar apparently ::)
Was that because he wasn’t meant to be in Font due to travel restrictions? Not sure what the restrictions are like on the mainland now.
Yes. The Dutch government strongly advises against traveling abroad. Of course this is meant to discourage the large cohorts of people traveling to say Ibiza or Torremolinos or Les Deux Alps and not specifically to discourage someone who makes a living as a climbing coach and setter to go to Font. But those nuances aren’t possible and therefore it’s a blanket ban. France discourages EU citizens to travel to France, but does not forbid them to do so.
I did not speak to Michiel himself but a collegue said he wanted the ascent to pass unnoticed. But since he himself or Bart posted it on bleau.info and Manu did not claim the FA people were bound to find out anyhow ;D
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Like the look of that direct finish, shuffling around the corner was always the least appealing part. Although I'll probably need a very thick pad to ever get off the floor so any style points will likely be moot.
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Presume also that Manu and Michiel disagree on the grade then. I'd have thought if it were 8C it would have been done ages ago!
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Does ignoring a travel ban count as a dab?
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Maybe, but there is no ban on travelling from the Netherlands to France. At least not on the French side. You do need a PCR.
Today I heard on the radio that France plan to open the borders to seven more countries, including the UK, on Monday.
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Is bonder even on the bas? looks like he's just doing it from a stand start. I did the bas back when the new guide came out with it the jump as a black star (2013 i think) but had LH lower to start and was crouched (i just considered all that extra climbing as failure on a sitter) i never did the first sit move and that does seem really hard. You can do the move up with the RH with a catch heel for right foot and knowing Michael he's pretty good with an anasazi so he may well have used it. Could be an explanation for the grade difference anyhow as with the catch heel i found that move super reliable and you can get the jump RH super well. the sit is the true line, amazing to see it done and it's undoubtedly one of the best hard lines in font. This has defo been the most exciting season i can remember in font. Thilos recent ticklist and both their ascents of Januels New 8B+ are worth a click and scroll. (https://bleau.info/jouanne/306870.html)
Totally agree with Mason on the exit, but before doing it i can see how people think its lame but other than the tree the holds taking you rightwards are incredible and it's the natural exit, the mantle looks great too but you could argue you swap the tree for a much shitter landing. now that both exist you can double the scorecard factor anyhow so its win win.
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Grade wise they obviously differ on opinion. I think it took Manu significantly longer but he hasn't climbed on rock nearly as much as Michiel. Michiel is also very good with his heels.
Guess you can finish right or direct now, no difference in difficulty and don't think it'll go down as a different problem either.
Great effort to both as, like Dan says, the sit was always the line.
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interview with Manu Cornu
https://planetgrimpe.com/manu-cornu-enchaine-le-pilier-du-desert-assis-direct-et-propose-8c/
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Enjoyed the vid of fails on the first move, looks absolutely nails!
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I can supply loads of cottage like that if you like it.
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I can supply loads of cottage like that if you like it.
Not sure that sort of public intimacy is allowed under the current covid rules....
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One tree less as well in the later vids.
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You can do the move up with the RH with a catch heel for right foot and knowing Michael he's pretty good with an anasazi so he may well have used it. Could be an explanation for the grade difference anyhow as with the catch heel i found that move super reliable and you can get the jump RH super well.
I'm guessing you mean like the white heel Dan?
Given the all the noise around knee pads lately I'm amazed this sort of cheating goes by unmentioned. I mean it's just a half arsed spur - you're passively hanging weight off a piece of equipment. How much rubber do I have to coat my crampons in before it's OK?
Fat lip is such a joke.
[\rant]
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I can supply loads of cottage like that if you like it.
Not sure that sort of public intimacy is allowed under the current covid rules....
That’s my best auto correct yet.
It should be Footage but much better as it is.
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I did wonder. Would prefer footage ;)
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Did this excellent clip ever get posted?
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CMQCMbxp1iu/?igshid=1xoxkclz8mcuw
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Reminds me why I'm a route climber :lol:
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Wow. Lock and log this thread. Absolute shite.