UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: kingholmesy on April 19, 2017, 08:53:50 pm

Title: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: kingholmesy on April 19, 2017, 08:53:50 pm: One for all you thousands of shale devotees out there, form an orderly queue ... ;)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=448126

My favourite new route to date (it's not a long list to choose from) and harder (and dare I say better) than the existing routes on the crag (albeit Littlejohn's XS has a better name in Campaign for Real Shale).
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2017, 08:19:46 am: Sounds like a fun ride. Great names both. Clearly not a frequented crag, any photos?
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: kingholmesy on April 21, 2017, 08:50:12 am: Quote from: SA Chris on April 20, 2017, 08:19:46 am
... any photos?

I'm too technologically inept to add a photo to this thread, but I have just managed to add a pretty good photo topo here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=448126#photos

Unfortunately no photos of us actually on the route - far to busy being gripped!
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2017, 08:53:46 am: Great, that's a crazy bit of geology!
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: Falling Down on April 21, 2017, 09:04:25 am: Great route description. Nice to read about some adventurous climbing amongst the weighted hangs.
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: Will Hunt on April 21, 2017, 09:32:18 am: Allow me to be the first to say: fuck that.
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: kingholmesy on April 21, 2017, 02:21:03 pm: Quote from: Will Hunt on April 21, 2017, 09:32:18 am
Allow me to be the first to say: fuck that.

:lol: Admittedly it wouldn't be everyone's cup of tea, but if you're into that sort of thing it was awesome.

There's a direct finish to be done straight up the headwall above the big overlap. Looks like the climbing would be good, but probably English 6b, no gear for miles and snappy rock. Needless to say I didn't try it.
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: kingholmesy on April 21, 2017, 02:22:11 pm: Quote from: Falling Down on April 21, 2017, 09:04:25 am
Nice to read about some adventurous climbing amongst the weighted hangs.

It's the thought of getting on stuff like this in the summer that gets me through a winter of weighted hangs. :)
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: OffshoreAndy on April 22, 2017, 07:10:49 am: Fine effort mate. Looks exactly like my sort of route ;-)
Glad to see your newest addition isn't slowing you down.
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: kingholmesy on April 22, 2017, 08:33:29 am: Hi mate. Hope you're well. Give us a shout if you're down here sometime and fancy meeting up.

[
Quote from: OffshoreAndy on April 22, 2017, 07:10:49 am
Looks exactly like my sort of route ;-)

Just to be clear, it isn't a boulder problem traverse. ;)
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: OffshoreAndy on April 25, 2017, 07:20:33 pm: Ha, arse scraping traverses are my forte - this is true.
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: Wood FT on April 27, 2017, 05:50:22 pm: Great stuff this

:offtopic: Also saw that you've repeated Pat Littlejohn's relatively new E5 on Bolt Tail, how was that?
Title: Re: [Cornwall] [Butter Hole] [A Whiter Shade of Shale] [E5 5c/6a]
Post by: kingholmesy on April 28, 2017, 11:50:53 pm: Quote from: Wood FT on April 27, 2017, 05:50:22 pm

Also saw that you've repeated Pat Littlejohn's relatively new E5 on Bolt Tail, how was that?

Fantastic, can't recommend it enough. A scramble down the cliffs and tidal boulder hop it give it a real sense of commitment. An easy first pitch to coax you in. A steep pumpy second pitch on big holds. A weird, 3D third pitch udging up various shelves and grooves. Sustained but never desperate with reasonable gear throughout.