UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Doylo on July 12, 2014, 06:30:05 pm
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Shaunas done New Base Line, 8B+!!! :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :bounce:
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Hooo Leee SHIT! That's amazing :w00t:
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For me this could be the best achievement by a British climber ever! It really is that impressive and something that would have been unthinkable only a short time ago.
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Wow!
:o
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Fuck me sideways, daze
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Yikes. 8B+!
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Massive achievement! :bow:
Didn't know this until now but just watched it on Vimeo and looks, as you'd expect, absolutely nails.
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:strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: WOOOP! Good news! How many hours and minuets did it take her? :devangel:
well done Shauna!
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There were no dances involved unless you consider climbing a vertical ballet, more horizontal in this case tho
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If the Daggers been officially downgraded Neds going to have to up his game :lol:
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Shaunas done New Base Line, 8B+!!! :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :bounce:
(http://i.imgur.com/nyM0jxI.jpg)
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That girl is a total beast. Massive respect to her!
On a side note, is this the first female ascent of a downgraded 8C?
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I was thinking she needed her own thread!
I was also thinking about another issue. Are women as good at hard bouldering as men? Ashima and Shauna are getting pretty close to the top - and while both young. Looking at the actual numbers involved in hard bouldering (by which I mean bouldering pretty seriously and doing something vaguely like training with the intent of getting strong), I suspect men greatly outnumber women. In which case, perhaps the only think currently keeping the men ahead is pure numbers, and the increased odds this brings of producing a world class climber.
I suppose in a way it's not surprising either. The strength advantage men have due to our built in steroids largely enables us to develop and maintain increased muscle mass - which isn't particularly advantageous for climbing.
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Looking at the actual numbers involved in hard bouldering (by which I mean bouldering pretty seriously and doing something vaguely like training with the intent of getting strong), I suspect men greatly outnumber women. In which case, perhaps the only think currently keeping the men ahead is pure numbers, and the increased odds this brings of producing a world class climber.
A simple way to make this directly comparable is to work with proportions or precentages (although you'd be hard pushed to get a decent estimate of the total number of climbers of either gender).
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Looking at the youngsters coming through the Bunker. I would say, the current crop of 16yr olds and up are predominantly lads.
But the real stars in our under 16 groups are all girls and there are more girls than boys.
We're also seeing a rise n the number of 20 something women, as regulars. A year ago, when we opened, we had hardly any female custom; we're probably 60/40 (to male) now.
All of staff/instructors/sponsored climbers/squad members (and on and on), talk more about the female bouldering World Cup, than anything else.
I'm not sure any of them could tell you who the top UK male climbers are.
My guess, is that until recently, fewer women were interested in engaging in the level of training and dedication required and those who were, were more inclined to Dance/Gymnastics; climbing was a dirty, fingernail ripping, "adventure" activity.
Parents generally encourage their offspring into sports and activities that they themselves grew up with(?), and it's only over the last Decade that those of us of the '80/'90s climbing explosion are bringing our offspring into the arena.
Which brings their friends in...
And their friends...
(Cue sexist comment (purely for humorous purposes and in no way a reflection of personal opinions))
Let's face it. Women can't even go to the loo on their own...
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2 years since the first female V14 and now we've had 2 in a week! Puccio is surely next, seeing as she's made relatively light work of 2 V13's recently!
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All of staff/instructors/sponsored climbers/squad members (and on and on), talk more about the female bouldering World Cup, than anything else.
I'm not sure any of them could tell you who the top UK male climbers are.
Thats because we have a genuinely good British woman both indoors and outdoors. We cant say that for the men nor have we been able to for a long time. If/when we have a man up there going for gold we would all be interested in this as well.
Being nationalistic is seen as negative these days but i am quite happy to be so, especially in sport.
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Oh and good effort Shauna. Up there with a very small number of brits (male or female) to climb at that grade.
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Gme has beaten me to it, but anyone care to take a stab at the number of bits to climb 8B+?
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Gme has beaten me to it, but anyone care to take a stab at the number of bits to climb 8B+?
I hope you have an r missing from that, not an n?
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No he meant to say birds.
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Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna
more..?
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Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna
more..?
Nigel Callender with Monk life, and Dunning if Second Coming is 8B+. Feel like I'm missing someone... Andy Earl! Still feel like I'm missing someone though.
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Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna
more..?
Dave Mac (New Base Line, Mystic Stylez, Natural Method, others?)
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No he meant to say birds.
aka bints (derogatively!)
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Nigel Callender
Irish.
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Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna
Dunning
Dave Mac
Other possibles:
Robins?
Chris Davies?
Tim Clifford?
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Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ned?
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna
Dunning
Dave Mac
Other possibles:
Robins?
Chris Davies?
Tim Clifford?
Birch
Earl
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Looks like she might be top ten if you take out the ?s. Better than i thought.
We are pretty shit really arent we. The whole UK tick list looks like a Jimmy Webb weekend away.
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Ryan P - Spectre (still V14 or is it V13?), Didn't he also do Neverending Story?
Dave Jones - Dandelion Mind
Dan Turner - Dandelion Mind
Simon Newstead - The Island
Blackpool Sam - Kaizen
Tom Peckitt - Bulbhaul 8B/+
Nigel Callendar should be on the list, pretty sure we all think of Ireland as being part of the same gang.
And Michael Duffy - Soul Revolution.
Tim Clifford did The Singularity, so that's a yes.
Ned's done The Dagger, which loads of people still think is 8B+. So another yes.
Gaskins did Anaesthesia on film for Stick It. Isn't it still regarded as 8B+ with his method/start?
Moon
Malc
Micky P
Dan V
Ethan
Mike Adams
Tyler
Gaskins ( :worms: )
Shauna
Dunning
Dave Mac
Other possibles:
Robins?
Chris Davies?
Birch
Earl
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Saw someone (GuyVG?) post on sig. repeats that James Noble also did Dandelion Mind?
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Yeah, James did it but downgraded to 8b. Spectre is 8b too.
Anyway, looks like about 20 (give or take)..
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Pasquill hasn't. Strikes a few off if Dandelion Mind has come down. Has Dave Jones done another?he's capable.
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Is the downgrade general consensus, or still undecided?
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Nigel Callendar should be on the list, pretty sure we all think of Ireland as being part of the same gang.
And Michael Duffy - Soul Revolution.
Ha.
Plenty of folk seem willing to kill each other to demonstrate otherwise, but yes, as climbers it all feels same-same-but-different.
Awesome, awesome effort from Shauna!
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Chris Webb parsons - are we classing him as one of us?
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Chris Webb parsons - are we classing him as one of us?
He's got an Australian accent
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Is the downgrade general consensus, or still undecided?
James proposed 8B based on finding a foot sequence that made it easier for him, Ethan also used this beta I think
So for those who climbed it prior to these two, with what I presume wouldve been the orginal sequence, it'd be 8B+....I dunno...is this how things work?
anyway
STRENG SHAUNA STRENG
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Nigel Callendar should be on the list, pretty sure we all think of Ireland as being part of the same gang.
And Michael Duffy - Soul Revolution.
Ha.
Plenty of folk seem willing to kill each other to demonstrate otherwise, but yes, as climbers it all feels same-same-but-different.
I see it more like Ireland being a country that we've stolen a part of and won't give back. But I'm very happy to associate with the cheery ginger fuckers.
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Nigel Callendar should be on the list, pretty sure we all think of Ireland as being part of the same gang.
And Michael Duffy - Soul Revolution.
Ha.
Plenty of folk seem willing to kill each other to demonstrate otherwise, but yes, as climbers it all feels same-same-but-different.
Awesome, awesome effort from Shauna!
We're a bunch of generally rather insane Islanders, stuck out on the fringes of Eurasia, all with a heavy genetic dose of Celt/bagpipes/ale drinking/tartan skirt wearing/seafaring/scrapping and brawling/broad sword swinging...
With a deserved rep for jointly "Duffing up" most of the rest of the planet, not to mention some of the 18th/19th/20th centuries greatest engineering feats.
The other bit always seemed pretty stupid to me.
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Is this a shauna wad thread or are we seeing how big a tangent we can go off again?
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Best split the thread again, but miss out posts by me, Nibs and dave.
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Shauna's great and stuff. :icon_beerchug:
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Best split the thread again, but miss out posts by me, Nibs and dave.
By ukb standards that's a pretty minor deviation from the point of the thread....
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5 fuckin days to do New Base Line. My hardest problems all took 15+ days. 5 days is close to a flash!
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5 fuckin days to do New Base Line. My hardest problems all took 15+ days. 5 days is close to a flash!
First female 8B+ took three years of specific training, 30-40 days and '[a] few hundred attempts'.
With that much effort, or perhaps with less, Shauna could surely get 8C?
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I've got no doubt that shauna could climb an 8c, it'd probably probably just be the case of finding one that suited her.
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I've got no doubt that shauna could climb an 8c, it'd probably probably just be the case of finding one that suited her.
It strikes me that one of the advantages of being a competition climber is that you have to be pretty well balanced. She seems to pick problems with hard crimps, but she's clearly strong on slopers too. And at a variety of angles. I guess it might be a case of counting out reachy dynos? And perhaps roofy one move wonders?
I suspect it's just going to be a race against Ashima!
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https://www.thebmc.co.uk/shauna-coxsey-sets-a-new-baseline (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/shauna-coxsey-sets-a-new-baseline)
I don’t think of myself as being brave or bold. I would never use those words to describe myself. When I think about it though, it took me a lot of courage for me to consider trying an 8b+. I was afraid and nervous. Once I had started trying it I thought the fear and apprehension would subside but instead it grew. The realisation that something is possible adds pressure and expectation into the mix. The night before I did the climb I slept terribly and couldn't get the moves out of my head.
It seems an odd state of mind to be scared of trying hard boulders, but it seems to be working for her!
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https://www.thebmc.co.uk/shauna-coxsey-sets-a-new-baseline (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/shauna-coxsey-sets-a-new-baseline)
I don’t think of myself as being brave or bold. I would never use those words to describe myself. When I think about it though, it took me a lot of courage for me to consider trying an 8b+. I was afraid and nervous. Once I had started trying it I thought the fear and apprehension would subside but instead it grew. The realisation that something is possible adds pressure and expectation into the mix. The night before I did the climb I slept terribly and couldn't get the moves out of my head.
It seems an odd state of mind to be scared of trying hard boulders, but it seems to be working for her!
The right level of stress can motivate. It's only when I read about people not sleeping for weeks while contemplating some sketchy death lead that I wonder if they've gone too far! But what do I know. It'll give them a hell of a memory. Unless they're dead.
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Blow on the fingers at 00:51s, Jerry would be proud:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErrcxQOesbo&list=PLjAduxpsXS0q7_KQ9agqwUeWmqa3gR0sc#t=53 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErrcxQOesbo&list=PLjAduxpsXS0q7_KQ9agqwUeWmqa3gR0sc#t=53)
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Jesuschrist, no wonder she did New Base Line!
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:bow:
Blow on the fingers at 00:51s, Jerry would be proud
:bow:
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New Base Line: http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/shauna (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/shauna)
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I'm glad she was having to slap on the last moves. It's getting boring watching the vids of her locking every move off :P
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Yes, I was thinking Malcolm Smith. Impressive.
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Good that she got at least that bit on film and the Iphone video quality is good! And that Ned went round and showed her on top....at least it's something. And :strongbench: of course.
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Makes it look pretty steady! :strongbench:
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Shauna is nominated for BT Sports Action Woman of the Year (http://sport.bt.com/more-sport-hub/women-in-sport/2014-bt-action-woman-of-the-year-award-S11363940260913).
Vote early, vote often.
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Think I'm right in saying Shauna's picked up over-caffeinated sugary drink company sponsorship?!
Good stuff if so :)
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Shauna's done Ropes of Maui 8B in the Llanberis Pass . First 8B by a girl in the UK? Good to see her doing something outside again.
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Shauna's done Ropes of Maui 8B in the Llanberis Pass . First 8B by a girl in the UK? Good to see her doing something outside again.
Second that
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First 8B by a girl in the UK?
Bigger Belly not counting with the foot beta?
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I wouldn't know
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Hasn't another north wales lady (who's name has completely escaped me) done Ropes of Maui? Or am I imagining that?
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Link to video: https://www.facebook.com/shauna.coxsey.3/videos/929148297206662/
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Hasn't another north wales lady (who's name has completely escaped me) done Ropes of Maui? Or am I imagining that?
Jemma Powell did stone temple pilots in the same cave.. 8A
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Is ropes of Maui a lower start to the same line as stoned temple?
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it is a low start to stoned temple yah
pulled its pants down, what a beast.
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Shauna's done Ropes of Maui 8B in the Llanberis Pass . First 8B by a girl in the UK? Good to see her doing something outside again.
Beast
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Chatting to Shauna and Mike (her dad), this is the first season she's heading into the comps without an injury. And it shows :strongbench:.
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Twas good to witness it. In fact she did it twice, second time for the camera and probably a training lap.... :2thumbsup:
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One of the most impressive things with that ascent is avoiding the numerous dab opportunities on offer there!
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Beats more posts of "acroyoga" that's for sure . moves look really good to be fair
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Sheesh, that does look bad beta for a caving expedition. Good on her though :strongbench:
Pass looks drier than it did last summer FFS.
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:bow:
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Wad :clap2:
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Hasn't another north wales lady (who's name has completely escaped me) done Ropes of Maui? Or am I imagining that?
Jemma Powell did stone temple pilots in the same cave.. 8A
That's what I was thinking of, good knowledge on the correction.
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Shauna has just won the first round of the world cup. Only just made the finals but a pretty convincing performance in the end! Great stuff!
:strongbench:
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http://www.theguardian.com/sport/2016/may/07/climbing-shauna-coxsey-british-champion-world-olympics-women
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Shauna & Leah are on the Chalk Talk podcast (http://ctclimbingpodcast.com/shauna-coxsey-leah-crane-ifsc-bmc-climbing/).
Disclaimer: haven't listened to it yet, might be crap. Probably not though.
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jesus christ. don't watch the linked video on that page if you don't want your ears offended.
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MBE!
Hope it doesn't put her off the Semi's today...
http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2016/06/11/mbe-for-climber-shauna-coxsey-as-outdoor-luminaries-recognised-in-birthday-honours#
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Mbe? Is that a joke?
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MBE!
Hope it doesn't put her off the Semi's today...
http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2016/06/11/mbe-for-climber-shauna-coxsey-as-outdoor-luminaries-recognised-in-birthday-honours#
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
She will have known about it for a bit.
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She had to be on the podium in Vail to be definitely world champion regardless of what anybody else (Miho) did.
She was.
She is.
:dance1: :beer2: :strongbench:
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This is amazing! Well done Shauna
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:clap2: :bow:
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She had to be on the podium in Vail to be definitely world champion regardless of what anybody else (Miho) did.
She was.
She is.
:dance1: :beer2: :strongbench:
She is World Cup Champion, not World Champion. She will be World Champion is she wins in Paris :whistle:
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Please can this thread be named to "Shaunawad MBE".
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Please can this thread be named to "Shaunawad MBE".
Don't be ridiculous.
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Please can this thread be named to "Shaunawad MBE".
Don't be ridiculous.
Show some respect to Shauna, Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire.
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/21/3f/b2/213fb2defb534c2671069f3b0459851a.jpg)
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Please can this thread be named to "Shaunawad MBE".
Don't be ridiculous.
Only if the username Will Hunt can be changed to Andi_E ;)
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MBE
Is that something you put on your linkedin?
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MBE
Is that something you put on your linkedin?
:D
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She is World Cup Champion, not World Champion. She will be World Champion is she wins in Paris :whistle:
For the uninformed do you mind explaining that further?
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world championship (one off event) held in Paris in September.
All these events are world cups - different comp.
As I recall the World Champs are held every 2 years and alternate with the European Champs.
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Please can this thread be named to "Shaunawad MBE".
She might simply turn the MBE down.
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She is World Cup Champion, not World Champion. She will be World Champion is she wins in Paris :whistle:
For the uninformed do you mind explaining that further?
Badly named world championship event means we have to be confused or corrected every time someone sensibly uses the words "world champion" to describe the winner of all the world cups. Doh.
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Please can this thread be named to "Shaunawad MBE".
She might simply turn the MBE down.
If she's got any sense.
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Then again, Master of the British Empire might be making a bit of a resurgence given the way the Brexit vote might go! ;)
(You've got to laugh or you'd cry..)
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Mistress of the British Empire, surely?
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The Empire.
Falklands
Shetlands.
Gib.
Isle of Wight
Scilly isles.
Have I forgotten anywhere bigger than a small Texan ranch and also covered in sheep?
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The name is old-fashioned and possibly a bit outdated but it is highly recognised so difficult to change, and let's face it, who actually knows what these things stand for, I certainly didn't until this weekend. Regardless of what it's called it's a recognition at a high level of her achievements which I think is brilliant for both her and the sport. I personally would be honoured if it were me.
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Minister of the british empire surely!
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The UKC article adds the official title, "Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire" after the acronym (I realise it isn't a true acronym) and I'm yet to work out whether they added that because of the "most excellent" and dave's very accurate post on the "Shit, isn't that.....?" thread.
(dave's post on this page, http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=2309.1750 )
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Please can this thread be named to "Shaunawad MBE".
She might simply turn the MBE down.
She will have already been asked if she would accept.
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Things like this can be useful if/when climbers need a public voice. Rightly or wrongly your voice is more likely to be heard if you have an MBE.
Also given that Shauna makes a living out of climbing sponsorship it would probably have a long term financial cost is she turned it down.
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The UKC article adds the official title, "Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire" after the acronym (I realise it isn't a true acronym) and I'm yet to work out whether they added that because of the "most excellent" and dave's very accurate post on the "Shit, isn't that.....?" thread.
(dave's post on this page, http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=2309.1750 )
That was Bill and Ted not Wayne's World, wasn't it?
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Also given that Shauna makes a living out of climbing sponsorship it would probably have a long term financial cost is she turned it down.
I wonder if she'll wear her ubiquitous over-caffeinated sugary drink company hat to meet the queen?
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That was Bill and Ted not Wayne's World, wasn't it?
Ouch! I stand corrected, as a child of the nineties, I shouldn't make that mistake....... I blame my 4.30 am start.
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Also given that Shauna makes a living out of climbing sponsorship it would probably have a long term financial cost is she turned it down.
I wonder if she'll wear her ubiquitous over-caffeinated sugary drink company hat to meet the queen?
At least it's less silly than a crown
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That was Bill and Ted not Wayne's World, wasn't it?
Ouch! I stand corrected, as a child of the nineties, I shouldn't make that mistake....... I blame my 4.30 am start.
Blame SA Chris... he made the same mistake at the time.
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Last time I made a mistake of a similar ilk it was galpinos who had a go at me...
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She is World Cup Champion, not World Champion. She will be World Champion is she wins in Paris :whistle:
For the uninformed do you mind explaining that further?
Badly named world championship event means we have to be confused or corrected every time someone sensibly uses the words "world champion" to describe the winner of all the world cups. Doh.
There are quite a few sports that have World Cups and World Championships so why should climbing not use the same terminology? Did anyone call Franz Klammer World Champion when he was really World Cup Champion. Or did anyone make the same mistake with Sir Steve Redgrave
(Both examples might be wrong as far as the individuals go but both skiing and rowing have Cups and Championships).
And the difference is important. Bodies like the IOC are far more interested in World Championships than they are in World Cups. Likewise event sponsors prefer Championships. And ask Dimitry which title is more important to him as a Russian seeking funding.
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Last time I made a mistake of a similar ilk it was galpinos who had a go at me...
I'm surrounded by glass and I've got no stones left......
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Also given that Shauna makes a living out of climbing sponsorship it would probably have a long term financial cost is she turned it down.
I wonder if she'll wear her ubiquitous over-caffeinated sugary drink company hat to meet the queen?
At least it's less silly than a crown
:lol:
I read sci-fi before bed. I get up in the morning and sometimes feel like i'm living in a rather distasteful historical reenactment. B.e.a.uuutiful. Let me out!
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She is World Cup Champion, not World Champion. She will be World Champion is she wins in Paris :whistle:
For the uninformed do you mind explaining that further?
Badly named world championship event means we have to be confused or corrected every time someone sensibly uses the words "world champion" to describe the winner of all the world cups. Doh.
There are quite a few sports that have World Cups and World Championships so why should climbing not use the same terminology? Did anyone call Franz Klammer World Champion when he was really World Cup Champion. Or did anyone make the same mistake with Sir Steve Redgrave
(Both examples might be wrong as far as the individuals go but both skiing and rowing have Cups and Championships).
And the difference is important. Bodies like the IOC are far more interested in World Championships than they are in World Cups. Likewise event sponsors prefer Championships. And ask Dimitry which title is more important to him as a Russian seeking funding.
Sorry I don't know who Franz Klammer is. I still think other sports using it is not a good reason, and doesn't mean the terminology isn't confusing. I'd rather we used series or league instead of cup, especially when the World Champs is basically the same format and field as a world cup round.
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BBC's picked it up. http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/36521098
They quote they ran from the BMC wasn't the best though...
"It's important we get competition climbing visible in the public eye as much as possible, which Shauna's win and MBE will help us greatly to do."
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Poor Ken must be turning already
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Please can this thread be named to "Shaunawad MBE".
She might simply turn the MBE down.
If she's got any sense.
If she does that she can't send it back in protest against some national disgrace
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Sorry I don't know who Franz Klammer is.
He's an Austrian skier, downhill specialist, who won the downhill world cup 5 times (four of those in consecutive seasons) and won the world championship twice (once in downhill, once in combined).
The world cup is a series and the world champs is a one off (though in an Olympic year, back then the Olympics were classed as the wold champs).
In case you were interested......
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Franz Klammer is the greatest downhill skier of all time, and possibly the bravest. Everyone who's born with skies on their feet knows this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYj9kIxAL_o
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Franz Klammer is the greatest downhill skier of all time, and possibly the bravest. Everyone who's born with skies on their feet knows this
I obvioulsy know about Klammer and the likes of Stenmark but I always think the sportspeople that influence you are the ones at the height of their prowess when you're young and obsessed. The names that stick with me more are Tomba la Bomba, the Herminator (especially after he nearly had his leg amputated), Alphand, Kjus, Miller and I've always had a soft spot for Cuche.
Anyway, a little off topic....
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I wonder if anyone has had to explain what competition bouldering is to the Queen?
"Well ma'am, one tries to climb a surface with little bits of plastic stuck on it just using one's fingers and toes"
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Never heard of that Klammer guy before. Holy fuck the first half of that video was hard to watch. How didn't he break his neck or something!? What a legend!
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Never heard of that Klammer guy before. Holy fuck the first half of that video was hard to watch. How didn't he break his neck or something!? What a legend!
Agreed, 110% commitment and 70's vintage safety precautions; stones like melons that man :bow: I remember watching that run live on TV as a school kid - Klammer was The skiing wad in the late 70's
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Never heard of that Klammer guy before. Holy fuck the first half of that video was hard to watch. How didn't he break his neck or something!? What a legend!
Total leg end.
But the video mainly shows falls from other skiers, like Herman Maier (first one).
As for braveness, also Rob Boyd and Ghedina were quite high up...
http://youtu.be/_onJpunYHO4
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The Open 2016: Jordan Spieth says criticism of his performances this year is unfair:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7720/28320703276_025900c5d4_b.jpg)
http://m.bbc.com/sport/olympics/36811368
Sorry if that's the wrong link.
;)
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Sport chttp://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.giflimbing involves participants scaling permanent anchors, like bolts, fixed to the rock.
:lol:
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Shaunawad MBE today joined a very exclusive club (John Long the only other member?) of climbers to be interviewed on the Today programme. The announcement that climbing will enter the Olympics is due to be made today, barring an upset.
Fairly short interview. Main thing that was discussed was Adam Ondra's criticism of the format of the competition, forcing competitors to compete in Bouldering, Sport, and Speed events. Shauna's reply, to paraphrase, seemed to suggest that the Olympic format broke the mould, but that competition climbing would catch up to reflect this.
Still not keen on the format myself. Especially bloody "speed climbing", as if that's something that anybody in their right mind would give a shit about.
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Prepare for the 'how fast can you climb' questions at work. Olympic sports all have some define able quantitative measurement, how high, how fast etc. I think bouldering and sport won't quite fit....
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Olympic sports all have some define able quantitative measurement, how high, how fast etc. I think bouldering and sport won't quite fit....
No they don't. A lot, like gymnastics, diving, synchronised swimming, dressage etc are all judged. Surfing will be too, same as it always is.
Sport climbing is basically "how far" same as a few athletics events. Bouldering is slightly more complicated, but I think people will cope.
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Prepare for the 'how fast can you climb' questions at work. Olympic sports all have some define able quantitative measurement, how high, how fast etc. I think bouldering and sport won't quite fit....
looking forward to it, distinctly average at climbing but I can climb quite fast, though I'm more an organic speed climber moving quickly over found terrain i.e. I can't do that wank official one, it's nails!
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Fair point. But those are the ones no one watches. Every one just watches usain bolt any way. If bouldering and sport would be no problem why where they so adement to involve speed climbing?
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Olympic sports all have some define able quantitative measurement, how high, how fast etc.
Citius, Altius, Fortius (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympic_symbols#Motto)
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Fair point. But those are the ones no one watches. Every one just watches usain bolt any way. If bouldering and sport would be no problem why where they so adement to involve speed climbing?
It's pretty popular in other places (Russia?), but FWIW I agree it's a bit shit. Still I guess (?) it's an easy one to get better at (given 4 years to train?) if you are OK at the other two?
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why where they so adement to involve speed climbing?
Because it was invented and is mostly practiced in former soviet countries that are still highly politically influential in the International Organisation for Chemical enhancement
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looking forward to it, distinctly average at climbing but I can climb quite fast, though I'm more an organic speed climber moving quickly over found terrain i.e. I can't do that wank official one, it's nails!
I'm the opposite. It's been said that sport is a proxy for war; in that case, I am the sport climbing equivalent of a "creeping barrage".
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Air War before the ground assault?
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more of a slow, creeping artillery assault that progresses so slowly it kills more of its own closely following soldiers than the enemy.
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Not keen on the triple discipline format myself and think speed is the odd one out - it's a pretty niche event.
However I can see the logic in the format put forward and presumably the hope from the IFSC would be to have 3 medals and individual events in future if this proves a success.
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Fair point. But those are the ones no one watches. Every one just watches usain bolt any way. If bouldering and sport would be no problem why where they so adement to involve speed climbing?
Gymnastics is one of the most popular events in the Olympics, the rest I agree not many people watch
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Shaunawad collects her MBE from the palace today. I know we're all supposed to be good republicans here and think the monarchy is terrible, but I say good on Shauna, Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire. If I ever meet her at the crag, that is how I shall address her. In fact, I think we should insist that comp commentators give her her full, unabbreviated title in future.
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Has she got 'MBE' added to the lettering on her van yet? :2thumbsup:
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Shauna did Pampelmousse recently and also something else that got 8A in the guidebook but she says is soft.
Given she gave birth merely months ago I'd say that's pretty chuffin impressive and worthy of a mention.
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In case anyone misses it; casual mention in a random Instagram story (at the end of a long sequence of Insta stories) from Shauna that she did Hydro 8B at Ogmore recently and "forgot to post" about doing it!
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I heard she did it in about an hour too.
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In case anyone misses it; casual mention in a random Instagram story (at the end of a long sequence of Insta stories) from Shauna that she did Hydro 8B at Ogmore recently and "forgot to post" about doing it!
Mum brain!!
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She's such an absolute machine, like it was easy to forget when she wasn't doing anything (for obvious reasons!) and now she's back and banging out 8Bs in a session every month
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And prior to that her focus was mainly on comps in the run up to the Olympics, as well as a few setbacks due to injuries. So glad she's gone back to outdoor beast mode and is hitting form.
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I wish some of the current competition climbers did some outdoor crushing. Would make it easier who to cheer for.
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I wish some of the current competition climbers did some outdoor crushing. Would make it easier who to cheer for.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b76ZP4u09WE
My finger cringes at the thought of that move.
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Amusingly Steve Mac-esque self-deprecation in an interview with Shauna on the other channel, on her ascent of The Hydro...the holds "seemed totally impossible" and she "couldn't fathom" holding them. In fact she "wasn't sure if I should try The Hydro". But then did it second go :-\:lol:
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Any eagle-eyed people knowledgeable about Pedriza bouldering know what this might be?
(https://climbing-history.org/file/ee0fbe55-88be-9342-6fab-66c117989134/Screenshot 2024_02_29 at 12.48.05.png)
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👀
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRFKYbsOIkY
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That you answered yourself in under 10 mins is impressive.
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That you answered yourself in under 10 mins is impressive.
Not entirely surprising for remusbot industries!!
That looks like terrible beta for an impressive offwidth chimney.
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At this point I think the entity ukb knows as 'remus' is in fact a powerful data scraping computer programmed to pick up and analyse any and all climbing content from the internet for relevance and significance before posting it if it ticks enough boxes. Its like EARL, the lighthouse from the simpsons.
On another note, whatever Shauna's skincare routine is, it clearly works. No idea how shes climbing so hard so consistently on granite.
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At this point I think the entity ukb knows as 'remus' is in fact a powerful data scraping computer programmed to pick up and analyse any and all climbing content from the internet for relevance and significance before posting it if it ticks enough boxes. Its like EARL, the lighthouse from the simpsons.
:lol: This gets more and more true every day.
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Do you reckon he asked and then looked for an answer for 10 minutes? Or posted, came back and opened the thread, saw the question and knew instinctively?
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Vid of fotofobia on her ig
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3-xvjGsX0L/?igsh=MWk1MDFoemFkbWhubg==
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Fuckin' hell she pathed it
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Fat Lip in a session
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5scqGFqqJr/?igsh=Y3d6bXlwZnRta2U2
Without an anasazi style heel as well?
Someone get her on something hard!
Anyone know if she did Voyager and been keeping it quiet? I'd heard she was very close and it was basically just a mental barrier but the season seems to have slipped away...
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I think the madrock heel is pretty good for alot of tricks, and could quite possibly snag well on that heel too
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Anyone know if she did Voyager and been keeping it quiet? I'd heard she was very close and it was basically just a mental barrier but the season seems to have slipped away...
Given she said
Mixed emotions that limestone season is here because I love the lime but I so wasn’t done with grit yet 😅
I would guess maybe not?
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The next week (starting tomorrow) has a lot of cool, breezy, dry, overcast weather forecast. I'm ignorant about what such top-level grit climbing requires but to me it wasn't obvious the grit season is over.
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Yeah, overcast, single figure temps, humidity in the 50’s, northerlies, sounds pretty prime to me!
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So impressive that she continues to climb so hard having dealt with so many injuries over the last couple of years. Awesome! :strongbench: