UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on December 19, 2008, 06:40:38 pm
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Thought this was worth a post. Must be all that typing on this forum!
http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/index.php/ (http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/index.php/)
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LOL, good effort, his fingers must be well strong after all that paragraph-free ranting :thumbsup:
Money where mouth is and all that....
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Waddage - He's answered his own questions...
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Good skills Stevie, well done :beer2:
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Yeah, amazing stuff
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Waddage for a supreme effort, at any age.
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this is the kind of stuff we want to read about. inspirational stuff, good effort
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Feck sake!Nice one, amazing effort :bow:
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:bow: good skills insiping stuff.
Got any training tips :)
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Wowzer
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Chika-dink :thumbsup:
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Mighty impressive! Definitely walks the walk...
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Looks like we can add stevie to the list of brits who have climbed 8c+ too. Fine work :beer2:
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Fantastic achievement Steve. :bow:
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Lots of people offering congrats, but will anyone apologize for mocking the big man's pull up regime? :whistle:
Awesome effort Stevie, you're an inspiration to me...
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:bow: good skills insiping stuff.
Got any training tips :)
pull ups, lots of pull ups
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Worth a proper doff o' the cap that is :bow:
Rizpekt.
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awesome :thumbsup:
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Astounding :great:
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Amazing Effort Stevie!! :great: :bow:
Just think whats possible if you make the move further south to Lleida!!? ;)
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Best get back on the bar then! impressive news, top job
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Lots of people offering congrats, but will anyone apologize for mocking the big man's pull up regime? :whistle:
conversely what is if turned out that he'd have done it years ago if he hadn't wasted all that valuable training time doing thousands of pullups?
i'll echo the sentiments of "good effort".
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hahahaha!!!
bellissimo!!!
:bow:
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Awesome.
This one will go down in climbing folklore with Eric Jones soloing the Nordwand and Whillans 'we beat you at your national game - twice'. Oh yeah sorry, I forgot Stevie soloed the Walker Spur in winter years ago too.
Talks the talk, walks the walk. Imagine fighting the fucker.
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Bon effort.
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Wow. Well done Stevie.. amazing effort. :great:
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The Rockfather. Bon.
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Incredible effort.
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Amazing effort Stevie! That's one of the most inspirational pieces of climbing I've heard about this year!
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Found this link from UKC of Sharma on it http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/vidplayer/Golpe_De_Estado/ (http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/vidplayer/Golpe_De_Estado/)
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Errrr not sure what happened there but for some reason thought this was an old clip of Sharma working what Stevie just did :oops:
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I think this is the crag...
(http://www.benoblog.com/images/randos/08-01-27_grotte_sabart/03.jpg)
:o Bravo Stevie
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Looks perfect for armchair climbers
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Awesome effort.
The picture might answer the question 'British standards shit or not shit' though.
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Has anyone come close to 8c+ at 52 btw? Ron Kauk?
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Has anyone come close to 8c+ at 52 btw? Ron Kauk?
I think the only contender is that Manolo chap who redpointed the vertical Fred Nicole 8c+ Bain de Sang and then did a wierdly graded 8c/9a multipitch called 'For old Warriors only' or summat like that (bad translation). He is in his mid 50's I think? I think those were his 2 hardest although I might have missed one? However, Dave Graham has said that if Bain de Sang is 8c+ then Hubble is for sure 9a.
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Nice one stevie. ;D
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Has anyone come close to 8c+ at 52 btw? Ron Kauk?
Obviously a few grade off but 8a at 59 by Al Austin and Rab Carrington (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=771) (see "Never to Old" section)
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I think the only contender is that Manolo chap who redpointed the vertical Fred Nicole 8c+ Bain de Sang
Interesting. A spot off googling throws up that he was 48 when he did BdS in 1996.http://www.lasportiva.com/Magazine/inglese/realizzazioni/BainDeSang.htm (http://www.lasportiva.com/Magazine/inglese/realizzazioni/BainDeSang.htm)
And if this was the other route, it looks like 1996 too http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?keyid=35201&l=2 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?keyid=35201&l=2)
Still a wad though.
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lets keep at least one thread on track and not go off on a tangent comparing grades of other routes.
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And if this was the other route, it looks like 1996 too http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?keyid=35201&l=2 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?keyid=35201&l=2)
That one was 2006, I remember it from 2 years ago.
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So it was. "2006" is a clue.
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One of the most significant aspects of Stevie's achievement is that he could bear to spend a significant amount of time in that cave! Unless it's changed from last year it is not the most salubrious of crags: seepy, smelly, and littered with shit. I remember making a very quick RP of a 7a and then having to leave before my nauseated belayer killed me (I had to buy him lunch in Foix to assuage my guilt). A very determined and impressive bit of climbing - all the hard lines were awe inspiring to look at - they just did not look physically possible - tiny knobbly holds on the steepest rock possible.
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I think this is the crag...
(http://www.benoblog.com/images/randos/08-01-27_grotte_sabart/03.jpg)
:o Bravo Stevie
Looks like Parisella's on steroids! Even the seats an echo of times past (i.e. 1983) when Moon, Freeman et al used to have 2CV seats set up in the cave.
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Actually it would appear we are doing Manolo a disservice by not reporting his ascent of Bimbaluna at St Loup in Jan this year, a route graded 9a or even 9a+ :o. he was actually 48 in Jan.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=281760 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=281760)
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Just got a text from a friend who has been to the crag says the routes like doing a 50m version of a v9 roof a hueco ie footwork+++++ mega impressive dave :thumbsup:
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Awesome. I was wondering what happened stevie as he'd disappeared of the radar since his ote\climb articles. What a legend. There's hope for me yet. If I can improve half a grade a year for 25 years I might make 8c+ by 52 as well!