UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: fashionguru on December 01, 2008, 11:10:50 am
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Well the title says it all.
Yesterday Mike Adams was out at Stanage after a very bad week and managed to pull down the 2nd ascent of Brad Pit from a sit start and also did Careless Torque ground up apparently flashing the upper wall.
Don't know much more as I was not out but I am sure more info will come in on this.
Well done Mike great effort.
Tony Simpson
:bow:
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If only I was taller...
Nice one Mike, Careless is rapidly becoming a trade route.
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A fine effort! Love to know what he thought about the grade and reach barrier for less tall folk?
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good stuff. its about time that brad pit thing got done, now we can look uncle fritz square in the monacle again.
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ct was getting lots of attention yesterday, was wondering if any1 was gonna make it to the top
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Careless is rapidly becoming a trade route.
Indeed. It says something that the text I got from a mutual friend informing me of the day's action, said that he did the BP sitter but made no mention of Careless Torque. Obviously not worth the time typing it out. ::)
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Na Ben,
(not sure) Just think he did CT later.
Anyway how the devil are you.
Tony
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just had a thought, since mick evidently did brad sit then careless torque, he should write that up as an adrian-berry-style mathematical E13. who says we can't compete with the yanks?
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Under the heading of 'Yank Scene Remotely Blown Apart'.
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How didi he finish BP - surely for the full kudos you would have to jump? Either way, good effort. Grade?
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How didi he finish BP - surely for the full kudos you would have to jump? Either way, good effort. Grade?
I was thinking the same thing. Still great whatever. I tried the sit a few years ago and the reach is huuuuuuge - did he span it or have to do some sort of dyno for the first move? Quite surprised it hadn't been repeated until now. Well done Mike
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I tried the sit a few years ago and the reach is huuuuuuge
as is mike...
Mike Adams was out at Stanage after a very bad week
what's this about Tony? Not the weather at any rate.
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Mike had to jump for the rail. It looked nails. As he finished it with the heel sequence, I don't think he feels justified in ticking his first 8b+. Somewhere in the 8a/+ region was mooted.
And his no-nonsense dismissal of the top of Careless Torque was a fine bit of bold climbing. Even if it did rain on Andy 'Look at me, I'm stood up on Careless Torque' Jennings' parade somewhat.
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Hi JB,
It was with reference to what Mike had said to me and what he was or should that be not! climbing earlier in the week. I also think work had not been too good either.
Tony
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I've previously been told that an Irish beast did this (Robbie Hunter? can't quite remember the name).. I'm seeing the person who told me later so I'll check I wasn't just imagining things...
Anyway, good work.
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I know this might shock a few peeps but ....
GooD tO HeAR PeoPle maKinG USe of SkilLZ
Fine show what!
worDz ScriBbLe
But what i really want to know is who was that woman is the green finger polish doing Cresent Arete is such beautiful style?
Did anyone else see her?
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On a slightly off topic note, did the Americans do Careless Torque while they were over?
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Even if it did rain on Andy 'Look at me, I'm stood up on Careless Torque' Jennings' parade somewhat.
Priceless. I would love to see a photo with that caption and said gent with beaming smile in situ.
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Even if it did rain on Andy 'Look at me, I'm stood up on Careless Torque' Jennings' parade somewhat.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Didn't a big german do Brad Pit SS before?
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hence the expression "2nd ascent".
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Or Acsent, as the case may be. The next brit to do it will also be a 2nd acsent, unless regional acsents count?
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Even if it did rain on Andy 'Look at me, I'm stood up on Careless Torque' Jennings' parade somewhat.
Priceless. I would love to see a photo with that caption and said gent with beaming smile in situ.
There is one or two of Johnny Brown knocking about.
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I'm amazed that this ascent has had such little coverage on here. Everyone seems obsessed on this BOULDERING forum with 'significant repeats' of ROUTES!
I remember seeing an old OTE (about 7 years ago!) with pictures of Willenberg doing this and thinking it looked hard, but when I finally saw it for real, I thought it looked nigh on impossible unless you could reach all the way to the rail, but then on the weekend, I heard that this was done by jumping to the rail and latching the rail one handed! Truly awesome and inspiring.
Surely this has to be the most significant UK bouldering repeat of 2008?
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Yer not wrong!
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Wow. Nuff respec! I thought he may have spanned it but holding the rail one handed is an incredible dispaly of strength. I wonder if he managed to get a toe hook to stop the swing? I thought that would be possible from what I remember looking at it a few years ago, when I was last in the peak.
I'm amazed that this ascent has had such little coverage on here. Everyone seems obsessed on this BOULDERING forum with 'significant repeats' of ROUTES!
:agree:
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Morpho sitter in a dank pit originally done into an outdated finishing sequence, though. Might be why.
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Morpho sitter in a dank pit originally done into an outdated finishing sequence, though. Might be why.
It's only morpho if you assume you can only do it if you're long.
For me it seems like an ideal problem, sit start under overhang, campus to rail, technical heel hooking, powerful openhand movements to jug and easy top out for good measure! It might not have the aesthetics of CT but has the range of quality moves that make for an outstanding boulder problem.
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Its only not morpho if you assume it won't be a hundred times harder for a midget to pop through a giant reach that has only been managed by giants. I guess this is that negative attitude again, we could all be monsters if we could just get through it.
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A great effor by Mick.
The problem with brad pit ss is, its not a very inspiring problem and has only been done by a giant and a slightly smaller giant
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doesn't it really matter if its been done by tall people? if it was non-morpho and only done by a tall person would a problem be less impressive? no. what is it for Mick, like 8b? for a shortie it'd be 9d, and since no-one can climb 9d its irrelevent. better done by a "giant" (mick ain't that tall!) than not at all. 8b is impressive to me. cry me a fucking river.
(would everyone prefer that this problem doesn't exist or something, as it won't constantly remind them of their non-plus stature? crazy.)
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The problem is Dave, is that you go into the pit and think wow, that looks like a good problem. You don't go ;wow that sitstart will be amazing.
The climbing is impressive and also looks very hard but so is ill pirata. They both look like shit, uninspiring problems hence the lack of coverage
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the sitter looks like great climbing on decent rock spoiled by being in a green mucky dank hole at an otherwise beautiful crag. much like the standup.
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I'm sure Ill pirata would look like great climbing if it was more than 1 foot off the floor and not in a dirty hollow in the ground
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Hastily pointing out that I can't get anywhere near Brad Pit... :(
Standing on the ground I've felt the span between the undercut and the rail and it didn't seem that ridiculously big. What did seem ridiculous was the concept of pulling all the way up onto that rail from low down. Is it not that people are being a teeny weeny bit dismissive just cos it's clearly nails, rather than super morpho. I would imagine that it's certainly no more morpho than Jason's Roof/undercut.
Also, I really do think that the standard problem is significantly harder if you're big. I actually have pretty good flexibility, especialy in the hips, but find that once I have my heel on, there's so much leg pushing me away from the rock that my arms are almost at right angles to the rail!
So all in all I say the big chaps who have done the sitter might have the span but they would be at a disadvantage on the meat of the problem? So v :thumbsup:
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:agree: :bow:
It's an amazing effort whatever. Did Mike A propose a grade?
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V11 or V12ish.
And he did catch it with one hand, but all this really tells you is that he didn't do it as a double dyno. His left hand remained on the undercut etc.
What Tom said re Jason's sounds about right distance wise, only you have to jump.
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What Tom said re Jason's sounds about right distance wise, only you have to jump.
Some of us would have to jump Jason's. :'(
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sorry i'll translate, somebody's idiot meant 8a/plus
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sorry i'll translate, somebody's idiot meant 8a/plus
:( ??? :-\ What's that in V-grades again??
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:( ??? :-\ What's that in V-grades again??
Come on Fiend! Even I am starting to think in Font grades these days and if fat useless punters like me can do it then I am sure you can...
bluebrad
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Genius. :lol: