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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Bubba on May 12, 2003, 11:01:59 am

Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: Bubba on May 12, 2003, 11:01:59 am: Josune Bereziartu has just done Fred Nicole's 'E la Nave va', 8c (trav).

Now, I think the traverse grades are stupid, but if you gave it a V-grade it would prolly be up there around the V13 ish mark. Respeck.
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dave on May 12, 2003, 11:07:42 am: I don't understand the point of font traverse grades. Why can't they just grade these problems for how hard they are to climb, regardless of the direction?
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: Bubba on May 12, 2003, 11:14:53 am: It does seem really strange, and is no doubt some throwback to history. I suppose some traverses are more like routes but still that's no excuse for another grading system. People often quote the Powerband as being equivalent to an 8b route or whatever, but it'd be a bit daft to give it a new grade because of that.
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dobbin on May 12, 2003, 11:32:32 am: On that note according to the Peak Slimestone CockFax guide the weedkiller traverse (given a paltry b7 in the boulder guide) gets route grade of 8a!

Which is probably not far off!
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dave on May 12, 2003, 11:34:29 am: In the BMC '99 guide it gives powerband start into R&H jug as f8b - lordy.
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dobbin on May 12, 2003, 11:37:39 am: I don't reckon that can be right I mean I have managed to haul my ass up an 8a route and even an 8a+ one (on a top rope!) but I've never climbed 8b, but can lap that problem?

I have heard someone (whose sirname is Plumtree) say that Stamina band into r&h start is font 8a+ - its not surely? 8a perhaps?
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: Scouse D on May 12, 2003, 11:53:46 am: Pimpin Dave Parry.

Fr 8b ????????

Botox

Me Mum could climb that link.

Fr 7c tops
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dave on May 12, 2003, 11:54:58 am: I agree with Weedkiller traverse probably being 8aish, but yeah f8b (font 7c?) it a bit daft for PB into R&H, its only 8 moves long!. Not tried staminband start so dunno.

Disclaimer: I've never done harder than 7a/+ on bolts
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dave on May 12, 2003, 12:35:32 pm: Waiiiit a goddamn minute, if staminaband into R&Hstart was font 8a+ then the full staminaband (i.e. loads harder) wold surely be font 8b, and i don't even remember 8b being given for staminaband.

Scouse, i didn't know your mum could climb harder than you? :wink:
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dobbin on May 12, 2003, 03:20:47 pm: Precisely! I think StaminaHumps would be about font8a. Does anyone know what staminaband itself gets?
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dave on May 12, 2003, 03:25:31 pm: wasn't it in that OTE peak bouldering ticklist years ago at 8a or 8a+? I'll check when i get home. (the shame of not having that list memorised...)
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dobbin on May 12, 2003, 03:59:51 pm: have a look for a soft touch 8a for me mate. I could do with getting one ticked. :wink:
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dave on May 13, 2003, 10:16:02 am: The problem at the bottom of that list is Work Hard, but thats only cos its written alphabetically. I bet the easiet is Brad Pit, other than that its all real 8as like inertia reel traverse, jason's traverse, feel good etc.
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dobbin on May 13, 2003, 12:14:22 pm: and there was me thinking that the pitt of brad had gone down to 7c.
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: Doylo on May 16, 2003, 11:43:46 am: Powerhump is v8/v8+,probably F7c+, you don't have to do any of the hard moves on powerband and rattle & h start is probably v7ish. Reckon staminband into R& would be proper v9/10/. Justin plumbtree must campus the R& H start if he thinks that would be 8a+. Staminabands proper v11. Have you done weedkiller yet Dave, a right heel toe on the crux works a treat!
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: dave on May 16, 2003, 11:52:09 am: Yeah i did weedkiller traverse last summer, and yes i used the heel toe bar thing to avoid all that footless faggottry.

I used to think R&H start was pretty hard cos Jon Bra-tron assured me the easiest way was to go left into that gaston then press for the pinch. Did it this way eventually last summer after much work, then this year tried it the other way (thinking it was gonna be harder) and it turns out to be piss. Cheers Barton - not.

Apparently theres a way of doing PB/SB into R&H that avoids the good deep LH pocket at the start of R&H, which probably makes it a fair bit harder.
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: cofe on May 16, 2003, 07:37:45 pm: word. there is a powerbland/r&h thingy wot ru b-boy davies was icing when me and da scouse was there. you get the pockets before the normal jug start pocket, left toe on and yard up to the first crimp etc... he nearly did staminabland into it. r.e.s.t.e.c.p.

r&h probs is about V7 - doing powerblah into will knacker thi though but dunno cos ant dun it.

p.s. doing the weedkiller crux footless is the mark of a true great... :8)
Title: Josune pulls down...or across anyroad.
Post by: Bubba on June 27, 2003, 08:37:20 am: Josune has just done Na-Nai (hard 8c+) at the Baltzola Cave in Switzerland.

Described as an 8c with a V11 on top, and overhanging by 45 degrees, Josune is starting to answer her critics who were disparaging about her ascent of Bain de Sang (9a) by saying it was a crimpy wall so ideally suited to her small fingers, etc.

(news courtesy of 8a.nu (http://8a.nu))