UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: T_B on June 05, 2009, 08:15:54 am
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Gash forecast for the weekend. Anyone know if this stays dry in the rain? I know it seeps, but hoping that there'll be little seepage and maybe it's sheletered... or is the belay round the lip? Don't think I've ever been there so can't picture it at all. Thanks.
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None of the sport routes get rained on and I've climbed there in the rain, but it does suffer with condensation in humid conditions or fine drizzle or if rain has been blowing in for a while. Seepage wise I'd imagine it should be ok with the possible exception of some holds on Thormen's which is last to dry.
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Nice one Bonjoy, I thought as much...
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Went to try this the other day with the Randell. The middle pockets are very wet at the moment. We (read Tom) were trying to miss 2 of them out but alas it was not possible. Great route though and will be back soon. Didn't try the other things there so not sure what the score is
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It does take a good while for this route to dry and in my experience the undercut at the start of the trav left and one or two of the first pockets very rarely get totally dry. Unless we have an exceedingly dry year it’s best to assume you’ll have to deal with some level of wetness on these holds. I found it helped to leave a beer towel stuffed in the undercut between attempts. Fortunately the pockets are very positive and the moves on them not too hard. You could always try one of the much dryer *** 7c+s in the back....
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It was more the mud and vertical downpour of water that put me off pulling on them
What/where are the routes in the back?
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I can imagine the wetness hasn't subsided to acceptable damp recently. A bit of wet is one thing, rivers of mud is another.
Details of other routes here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=125 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=125)
There used to be a thread on ukb with a topo on it. Unfortunately as the pic was hosted on the ukb gallery the link is now dead. I'll try to remember to repost it from my work pc where I have the original.
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Have located the topo and posted on the ukb vimeo group
(http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:3929)
On reflection Ragnarok is too nasty to be ***, probably ** at most. And Midgard Serpent seems to be 7b+ according to most who've done/tried it.
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thanks, though being colour blind I will need some help with that :lol:
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That diagram blows my little mind. I get disorientated under Ben's Roof, let alone that craziness.
I'm dead keen to get down there.
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Had a look yesterday. Most stuff had some wet patches. The only fully dry route was Loki. I’d guess that the routes in the back will be ok in about a week if the weather plays ball and Thormens will take a week or two longer.
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As long as Thormen's isn't your absolute limit in terms of grade it's pretty ok to climb in the wet and still very enjoyable - just a little harder work! Beer towel helps.
Can't wait to get down and try Dan's new thing as well - nice looking line.
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Likely to be drier by friday with warm weather, or not worth it yet?
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Going on how dry it was last time I was there and the weather since, I’d say it should be looking good. I’d guess that everything will be climbable with maybe some wet holds persisting on Thormen’s and in the back of some pod holds. Worth bearing in mind that like all limestone roofs it can get wet due to condensation in very humid still conditions, however it is a bit of a wind tunnel so this sort of wetness drys out rapidly.
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What a venue. Shame about conditions. Thormans Moth is one of the best out there routes in the UK. Very unique Annoyingly wet on a few holds in the middle. Nothing was chalked. More traffic needed at this crag guys, its amazing.
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What a venue. Shame about conditions. Thor's Moth is one of the best out there routes in the UK. Very unique Annoyingly wet on a few holds in the middle. Nothing was chalked. More traffic needed at this crag guys, its amazing.
Yea this place should be visited more, once these routes get more chalk on them(take a chalk ball or three!!) it will be a premiere summer venue that would be bit more reliable I hope.
One thing it could do with is a maybe bolted warm up route about 6b. Sure one could be bolted up somewhere inside or outside?? I( know there are a few good trad routes but they take time to do.
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I've spotted a couple of warm up lines and have been meaning to sort. Should get them done soon.
Re the wetness, Thormen's is the last route to properly dry. The 7c+s in the back are mega and slightly faster.
How was the cave for condensation yesterday or seepage?
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How was the cave for condensation yesterday or seepage?
I think the floor was wet with condensation, but rock was ok. Just Thormans was seeping in the holds i described above. Not even climbable if you were an 8c climber! Again, i can not state how impressed i was with this line and the cave. Will get on the 7c+'s if Thormans is wet next time. We though about them but bailed to WCJ Cornice.
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How was the cave for condensation yesterday or seepage?
I think the floor was wet with condensation, but rock was ok. Just Thormans was seeping in the holds i described above. Not even climbable if you were an 8c climber! Again, i can not state how impressed i was with this line and the cave. Will get on the 7c+'s if Thormans is wet next time. We though about them but bailed to WCJ Cornice.
Nah! I'm a crap climber and I climbed it in the soaking wet. You've just got to grit down and pull a touch harder ;) You'd defo be able to do it Adam - I've seen how strong you are!!
Is Dan's new route conditions dependent? What's the drying times like on it? Has anyone had a go at repeating it yet?
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The Impression i got from Dan yesterday was that it is very dry at present and doesnt get wet easily......
Keen to get down and check out Thor's, looks good and very non-British!
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is this place bad news on a weekend with all the touroids?
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It does get busy with folk on sunny days, but generally they all disappear by mid afternoon and you have the place to yourself.
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We went today. All the sport routes look really good, with quality lines and rock.
Unfortunately we were unlucky with the condensation by the sound of it, as everything was drenched. I guess it was probably a lot busier than usual as well, but the number of tourists was horrendous.
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I had a feeling it might be gopping in this humid weather.
Was at Stoney today and even there a lot of the shaded bits were wet.
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Anybody been in the last couple of days?? Does this slightly cooler weather mean no condensation..... :shrug:
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I went to check the place out this morning - didn't get on anything but it looks awesome and need to head back with a rope soon.
Thormen's looked reasonably dry apart from a few of the pockets which looked a bit damp.
Most of the other stuff looked dryish as well.
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Thanks ;D
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Just a note for anyone thinking about going to Thor's. I haven't been down there but I'd guess it will be in prime condition. This sort of weather (mild and breezy) is perfect for zero condensation. Given how dry it was a couple of weeks back and the weather since I'd say the seapage will be minimal too.
Just thought I'd mention this, seeing as people seem to want to go to Thor's in the worst possible weather (high pressure, hot, humid) and then ignore it when the conditions improve. If you want to go there, i'd say now is a very good time.
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For those that haven't been and want somewhere different to go. I can't tell you how much you will like Thormans Moth. Get to it! :bounce:
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Anyone know whether the cave is likely to be dry at the moment? Thinking of heading over tomorrow afternoon and interested in the easier stuff like Midgard / Fenris.
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Most places are seepy at the mo so I guess Thors will be the same
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has anyone been yet this year? is it dry or likely to be dry? mainly interested in doing thormens moth
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has anyone been yet this year? is it dry or likely to be dry? mainly interested in doing thormens moth
Going on Jon's comments above (Just thought I'd mention this, seeing as people seem to want to go to Thor's in the worst possible weather (high pressure, hot, humid) and then ignore it when the conditions improve.) I would think its likely to be a bit greasy at the mo.
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On the other hand, given the third driest spring in 70 years (or summat) its pretty likely to be completely dry. Given some shade and a breeze it can be cooler than down t'dales too.
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On the other hand, given the third driest spring in 70 years (or summat) its pretty likely to be completely dry. Given some shade and a breeze it can be cooler than down t'dales too.
A dry spring doesn't make it good conditions in there. Temp changes are far more of a problem.
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I’ve been to Thor’s a lot and it’s no worse than many other crags condensation wise, it’s just that people seem to choose to go there as an ‘escape the heat’ option on the worst still high pressure days, during which conditions are ming.
The problem on still hot days is often due to hill fog during the night, so generally speaking a visit later in the day is better than an early morning hit.
Looking at the forecast for this week I’d say now is a good time to visit (falling temps and breezy). I'd wager that all the seepage will have stopped, given the dryness of the Cornice.
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cool thanks. i'll see if i can check it out this week and report back.
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A dry spring doesn't make it good conditions in there. Temp changes are far more of a problem.
Well a dry spring is a good start. What I was saying was that it seemed naive to write it off for the last month on the basis that its been a bit warm. As I said, its far more likely to catch a breeze up there than anywhere in Cheedale.
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:agree:
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Anyone been in the last few days? Is it likely to be ok with all this rain?
We'll be on Thormen's, Dan's new route and Bonjoy's upside down trench.... ;D
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Was there on friday. Little bit of spooge in the back of the small pockets on Thormen's, otherwise bone.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs059.snc4/35301_443755031997_611831997_6329355_275927_n.jpg)
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Was there on friday. Little bit of spooge in the back of the small pockets on Thormen's, otherwise bone.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs059.snc4/35301_443755031997_611831997_6329355_275927_n.jpg)
Good work 8) :thumbsup:
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Not my pic - I'm belaying. Robbie Shone (http://www.robbieshone.com/) was on photo detail.
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Great pic, how is it lit?
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Two flashes - one on floor bottom right, one held just to camera right. We'd been there for hours, but Robbie, being a caving photographer, wasn't interested until it was dark...
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Was there the about a week ago and the stuff we went on in the back of the cave was all bone dry. Caff did the second ascent of Escape to Valhalla and reckons 8a rather than the 7c+. Getting back on it I tend agree. I've got some low quality pics I'll try and post later.
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Not quite up to the standard of Robbie's pic, but hey ho.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4793162466_e0fc51702b.jpg)
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Cool - looks good! Is Escape to Valhalla the trench jobby? Can't wait.... :P
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No, the trenchy one is Midgard Serpent, the next route right of EtV. You can see the crack/trench to Caff's right.
For thrutch afficionados the harder finish to EtV is good Fun. Ragnarok 8a - same as EtV to the roof then continue right along the lower of the two roof cracks all the way to the west wall. The crux involves gaining a perched slab by reaching ahead of yourself with a kneebar. Can also be climbed all the way from the back of the cave to finish up West Window Groove as a six pitch 7c+, headtorch needed.
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Would the initial pitches of the 6-pitch 7c+ be worth climbing on their own, Jon? (for the non-7c+ climbers amongst us!).
I have a headtorch....
Neil
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Doesn't exactly sound appealing from Jon's description:
Pitch 1: E3 5c/6b+ - From almost the far end of the west passage climb a muddy ramp (bold) on the right to gain the line of bolts in the roof. Chimney along the rift past lots of aid bolts and spiders to an awkward about turn move to gain a subsidiary chimney on the North wall. Headtorchs essential!
Pitch 2: 6c+ - Traverse from the sub-chimney along the north wall up into the high rift. Continue along this clipping what bolts you can reach beneath you. Where the rift closes off make a tricky dropdown onto a muddy jug and swing down onto the south wall where a hanging belay can be arranged
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Doesn't exactly sound appealing
What? It sounds amazing! I'm sure with some frigging it could be an amazing E3/ A1.
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Hmm, spiders, mud and hanging belays. Three of my favourite things ;D
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I really enjoyed it, but I can see it would not be to all tastes. It's super safe if you clip stick the first bolt (I did). As it’s the line of an aid route the bolts are reaching distance apart! The rock quality is good though mucky in places. I reckon the whole line could be done at about 7a+ with four or five points of aid. Or it could be done as a three pitch (or even one long pitch if long draws used!) route finishing in the belfry at about 7b+.
I figure that description I wrote will attract the sort of people who’ll enjoy it and dissuade those that won’t.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2364/3649565551_e9b7fa9b3e_o.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2434/3649564621_09aa0ff338.jpg)
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Bonjoy - that caving/climbing photo is ace! Proper adventure. Might have to go do that tomorrow.
On a side note, I can't find the link anywhere to the cave's topo. I've found the thread, but not the link :shrug:
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vimeo page:
http://vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/view_file:3929 (http://vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/view_file:3929)
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Here it is, with extra scruffy bits of updating:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4793430868_478ae446aa_b.jpg)
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Excellent. Thanks for that!
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How was the Thor's visit in the end?
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Pretty much all wet on Saturday. Everything in the back was soaked, and the first half of Thormen's was damp all over. I think it was condensation rather than seepage, though whilst on the start of Thormen's I was getting hit by rain blowing in through the west window.
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Anyone been since Saturday - was hoping to get over tomoz/later in the week? Suspect it was condensation rather than seepage?
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Think it will still be fooked. I think there was also a fair amount of seepage when we were there on Saturday
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Hey, sorry for the text reply suggesting Thor’s would be a good bet for Sat! I hadn’t seen the conditions reports saying Rubicon, The Tor and both Cornices were fully condensed out and then when I did see them I assumed your text must have been a sarcastic joke, and hence you’d have taken my positive reply as going along with the joke. I did consider another text just to make sure you weren’t going to go there, but just thought it highly unlikely you actually thought it might be dry! :oops:
PS I'm sure it will now be back to bone dry.
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We all hate you
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Actually to be fair we had fun. Char climbed to the audience of 30 boy scouts and might possibly appear in "Scouting for boys: The Aryan generation". I was applauded by several EMO/Goth types who whooped and awed as I flailed around and Adam got to do some jumaring.
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Most things dry on Sunday. Some seepage from early pockets on Thormen's, Fenris and Mougou a bit wet.
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Anyone know if Thor's is likely to be dry this weekend?
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In the spirit of Bonjoy's too thickly-veiled sarcasm from last year, I expect it will be totally mint.
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Actually, I reckon with a forecast for showers and breeze, on top of low recent rainfall, it WILL be mint. No, really. But I've been known to get it wrong.
To be on the safe side check forecast for likelyhood of hillfog the night before and go after mid-day. And bring a duvet, it's often surprisingly chilly in there!
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Pah! You'll not catch me out that easily crab-hands!
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Pah! You'll not catch me out that easily crab-hands!
Dave Redpath has been down there this week, reckon it is dry as Bonjoy says....
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In mint condition today. It took a long time before I could persuade / bully a belayer into going there but it was definitely worth it. Only did Fenris in the end but it is an awesome route and a nice change of scene from the more usual crimpy peak sport climbing.
Good effort on all the bolting work Bonjoy.
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Nice one. Good to see Fenris get an ascent for a change.
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In mint condition today. It took a long time before I could persuade / bully a belayer into going there but it was definitely worth it. Only did Fenris in the end but it is an awesome route and a nice change of scene from the more usual crimpy peak sport climbing.
Good effort on all the bolting work Bonjoy.
Give me a shout if you fancy venturing down there again and need a catch.. I've been thinking about trying (possibly replace with - getting spanked by ;-) a few of the routes down there for a while now.
:D
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Ditto.
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Give me a shout if you fancy venturing down there again and need a catch.. I've been thinking about trying (possibly replace with - getting spanked by ;-) a few of the routes down there for a while now.
:D
Ditto.
Cheers guys. Unfortunately a return trip is off the cards for the next few weekends as I've got a stag weekend then wedding to attend.
It's fairly safe to say that Thormen's is pretty much number 1 on the most wanted list for next year though. Best sport line in the peak?
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Anyone know what conditions are like at the mo?
Cheers
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Anyone know if this place has seen much traffic recently?
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I've not heard anything for a while. I'd give the place a miss in current weather conditions unless there's going to be a decent through draft.
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Was here on Monday. Couple of the pockets were damp and greasy but managed to clean and dry them up. Overall I reckon a few ascents would get it in absolutely mint conditions.
Thormen's Moth is brilliant, well keen to go back and finish it off.
Cheers Dave
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Anyone know if it's dry there at the moment?
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All dry today. Although I pulled a bolt out of spear of Odin/Valhalla so you might want to steer clear of that until I manage to fix it...
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Shit! Hope nobody was hurt. Which one?
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Have PM'd bonjoy separately, but for general knowledge this was the penultimate bolt and caused no great problems. It may well have been an older bolt and not one of bonjoy's most recent.
I should have something back in on a 2 week timescale or so
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The forecast for this weekend is the right kind of weather I'm guessing? I.e. not hot/sweaty but should be lacking in seepage. Anyone been recently? Ta
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If it's anything like our warehouse there might be some lingering damp from Hurricane Bertha. Take a duvet/ windproof, the wind whistles through and there's no sun.
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Cool, cheers. Never been so inevitably will be looking at Thormen's Moth. I guess that is more open and holds the moisture less than those further in. What would be the best Plan B if you turned up and it was wet? Beeston I suppose. Anyone done Honorary Buoux or 666 and know the state of the bolts?
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Yeah, but there are some deep pockets that hold damp and the initial wall can be prone to condensation. I was up in Ivy Gash a few weeks back. The bolts didn't look too bad but the routes didn't look to have had much traffic.
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I was up in Ivy Gash a few weeks back.
(http://forums.thehuddle.com/public/style_emoticons/default/sneaky.gif)
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That's nothing. Last summer I took Puccio up the Plum buttress.
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Andy Harris was there a few days ago and it was very dry. It should still be fine despite the rain I think. It tends to mirror the Cornice and that seems to be holding up. If it is out of condition though you could try Arch Enemies or the 8a extension in Dovedale (if you haven't done already) as these are less prone to both kinds of damp. I reckon you're right about tomorrow though, should be good nick.
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Had a wander into Thor's cave this afternoon while I was in that neck of the woods. Most stuff looks very dry (from my vantage point of standing on the ground) but I guess some of the pockets could be damp in the back.
There also appears to be a fairly substantial bird nest in the huge pocket at the end of Thormen's Moth just before the chains.
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Did the nest look/sound occupied?!
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Did the nest look/sound occupied?!
Not that I could see. Pretty impressive nest though - it's a decent sized hole.
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Could be a condor's nest. Or a dragon's.
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Shame Somebody's Fool isn't around any more to give us an ID check.
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Could be a condor's nest. Or a dragon's.
Pterodactyl I reckon
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What are peoples opinions regarding the routes in the back of the cave at the moment.
I'm hoping that as reports from places like Cheedale indicate little seapage at the moment the cave could be reasonably dry.
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For general information the cave was mostly dry. There was the occasional moistish hold but nothing serious on the routes we climbed.
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Anyone been down recently to have a look?
Cheers