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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: James Yeah on May 22, 2010, 01:07:29 pm

Title: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on May 22, 2010, 01:07:29 pm
So i've had a bit of a search on here and only found a couple of suggestions so i'm posting this to ask for more places.

I'm a proper noobie, only been climbing/bouldering for about 2 months but i'm properly addicted already and want to get out of the climbing centre and try some outdoor bouldering.


I was wondering if any of you could possibly list some locations for outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.

So far the 2 places i've found mentioned have been Roaches and Grinshill.  I'm just wondering if there is anywhere else around the Midlands worth visiting for someone who is a bit shit but overly enthusiastic.

I'd like to pop somewhere tomorrow really so any help would be most marvelous.

Thanks.

Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: tomtom on May 22, 2010, 01:21:25 pm
Theres loads to go for at the Roaches - a good a place to start as any. Be prepared to not climb as high grades outside as you do inside - the real rock is quite different from plastic!
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on May 22, 2010, 02:07:35 pm
Ha i can barely climb indoors tbh with you.   Just thought outdoor might be a bit nicer than staying inside and melting to death.

Cheers for the help though, looks like Roaches is the best bet for tomorrow then  ;D
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: erm, sam on May 22, 2010, 04:23:46 pm
The roaches is super, though it will be super hot and greasy.
I think there is a particularly brilliant beginners boulder in the lower tier boulders. After you go through the gate into the boulders proper one of the first boulders on the left, but to the right of the path through the boulders has a slab of varying steepness split by a crack.
It is a really good spot to start getting the idea of smearing etc.
And then right at the far left hand end of the lower tier is another good beginers boulder though steeper and more polished...
Apologies for the hopeless descriptions, after a quick wander round you will see them, and others..
Have fun.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on May 22, 2010, 07:43:56 pm
Brilliant, cheers for that.  I'll definitely go looking for those first then. 

Pretty excited, just hope my dodgy wrist holds up.


Thanks for your help mate.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 22, 2010, 08:00:39 pm
Where are you James? There is decent stuff in shropshire that might be closer.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on May 22, 2010, 08:19:28 pm
I'm in Birmingham mate, so you're probably right.   Where about in Shropshire?
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 22, 2010, 10:47:31 pm
There's a band of sandstone hills about 8 miles north of Shrewsbury. Nesscliffe and Grinshill have the best bouldering, but there's a fair bit scattered around.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: SA Chris on May 23, 2010, 10:05:48 am
Just thought outdoor might be a bit nicer than staying inside

I can almost guarantee it will. Lower tier gets a bit of shade too. There are loads of boulders you can play on there, regardless of grade. Some nice easy slabs behind the huge boulder in the middle. Don't wast ttime trying things you can't get in the first couple of goes again and again, just go for mileage and enjoyment of climbing on rock.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on May 23, 2010, 10:30:35 am
Johnny - Cheers mate, we'll go exploring around Grinshill and see what we can find, thanks for your help.

SA Chris - I'll keep that in mind cheers.  Just wanna go experience what it's like to climb on real rocks, never done it so really eager to have a go and see what it's like.  I'll def stick to easier routes and just have fun today, i'm not good enough to do anything but that anyways :D


Thanks for all your help guys.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: granticus on May 23, 2010, 05:00:53 pm
The Lower Churnett valley is very good and very close to Birmingham, right next to Alton Towers, tis in the peak bouldering guide (despite not being in the peak).
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: SA Chris on May 23, 2010, 07:19:36 pm
Not spent much time at Churnet, but don't recall much in the v(.)easy category
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on May 24, 2010, 10:35:04 am
Ended up at Grinshill.  Probably didn't end up at the proper place to boulder, but found somewhere there and had loads of fun, spent ages just climbing about then set ourselves easy little routes.   

I'm definitely hooked on outdoor bouldering now although my hands and arms look like they've been put through a sander.


I'll check out churnett valley soon as well, even if there's nothing that easy there it would be good to know what's near me

Cheers for all the help guys, i had an awesome day thanks to you lot ;D
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 24, 2010, 12:34:43 pm
Nice one James, I used to love Grinshill. Great spot to hang out on a nice day. Probably a good thing you didn't go to The Roaches on your first trip out - subsequent venues might have been disappointing...
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: granticus on May 24, 2010, 01:10:29 pm
Quote
Not spent much time at Churnet, but don't recall much in the v(.)easy category

There's plenty of easier stuff at Churnett, good problems on the wall left of the steep stuff at Cottage Rocks (some of the steeper stuff here is worth a look, it's powerful but not super difficult), the high traverse at Ousal is all easy moves (if a little pumpy), there are some easier problems at Wrights too and Virgin Wall traverse is good to work in sections...
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: SA Chris on May 24, 2010, 02:37:54 pm
I stand corrected. Like I said, not spent much time there.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on May 24, 2010, 03:36:20 pm
Johnny Brown -  I watched a video of roaches earlier today and i reckon you're right, the place looks amazing, definitely gonna head down there soon but Grinshill was loads of fun as well.

Granticus  - Ta for that, we'll head down Churnet soon as well, now you've said it's got some easier stuff i'll definitely be making the trip.


I think this is the start of an expensive but fun summer! :D
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on May 31, 2010, 11:11:13 am
Really sorry for bumping this back up but i have a quick (silly) question.

Is this a guide for Churnett valley bouldering?  I think it is but i'd just like to make sure before i drive there today. I only ask as this whole outdoor bouldering thing is pretty confusing.   (Probably as i don't own a bouldering guide book, can anyone recommend one of those for me as well please?) 

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/guidebooks/sample_chapters/staffs%20grit%20green%20boulders%20webguide.pdf (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/guidebooks/sample_chapters/staffs%20grit%20green%20boulders%20webguide.pdf)

Thanks for your help.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: Krank on May 31, 2010, 11:34:24 am
This is the guide to sort you out in the peak
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Peak-District-Bouldering-Rupert-Davies/dp/0954813111 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Peak-District-Bouldering-Rupert-Davies/dp/0954813111)

This site is pretty usefull
http://www.peakbouldering.info/ (http://www.peakbouldering.info/)

The BMC link is for the smaller, hidden blocs around the Churnet, the guide i linked has all the main areas of the churnet and would be fine for a first visit.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on May 31, 2010, 11:40:37 am
Brilliant thanks.

I'll order that guide book for next time.

Cheers for the Peak Bouldering link as well, checking that out now.   I take it that it just shows locations and not the routes?  (not really a problem as i'm pretty rubbish but wouldn't mind a rough guide to routes there)


Thanks again for your help, it's really appreciated.


Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: grimer on May 31, 2010, 12:04:44 pm
Or, to blow another trumpet...


... try this one

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3298 (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3298)

which is great for the churnet, and if you try out the free sample chapter, gives bouldering and routes on the lower tier of the roaches.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: joeisidle on June 01, 2010, 11:51:17 am
What Grimer said, if you're looking for nearby Staffordshire bouldering and are planning to make more than one visit the BMC guide is the way to go. The coverage of the Roaches and the Churnet Valley is a bit more comprehensive than the Peak Bouldering guide and (imo) its a bit easier to see where problems go and finish, which can be a bit of an issue at Churnet
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on June 01, 2010, 11:57:08 am
Grimer - Thanks, i'll pick that book up this week.

Joeisidle - Cheers for confirming that, will def be picking that up then.


We ended up at Churnett yesterday, went to toilet block first then to Wright's rock.   I hadn't quite realised how crazy hard some routes are, I have even more respect for you guys doing 6 -7 graded routes now.  I don't even know how you hold some of the holds.

Also my hands are absolutely ruined, gritstone? is properly harsh.   

I also really need to buy a bouldering mat, the fear kicks in at certain heights without a safe landing.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: granticus on June 02, 2010, 05:58:13 pm
Quote
Also my hands are absolutely ruined, gritstone? is properly harsh. 

Tis sandstone conglomerate my friend and it is quite harsh but it's all relative (Bodmin Granite now that's properly harsh!)

Quote
I also really need to buy a bouldering mat, the fear kicks in at certain heights without a safe landing.

 :goodidea:

And good effort on getting out there and going for it on relatively little knowledge/ information.  Making me feel nostalgic about my early days bouldering/ climbing  ;D
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: Fiend on June 02, 2010, 06:03:37 pm
Churnizzle ma nizzle. Get that BMC guide it's the bizzle. Also moisturise them paws.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on June 02, 2010, 06:08:44 pm
Granticus - I read somewhere it was gritstone, i did think it was sandstone though.  Shows what i know eh ha.

Oh yeah i'm all balls (very little balls mind) and no brains.  I definitely love this outdoor bouldering malarkey though, so much more fun than indoors and so much harder.

I'll def be getting a mat sometime this week though, using a piece of carpet and an old stinky thin dog bed is not the way.




Fiend - I've ordered the BMC guide so we can go on more outdoor adventures.  Also i've been using aloe vera and some nivea ting for my wrecked pansy hands, seems to be doing the job, well sort of.  Tempted by some of that climbers balm i've read bout on here.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: DubDom on June 24, 2010, 09:58:21 am
extreme esoteria:

Southstone in Worcs (Hermitage)??? Near to Sapey Common (I think) amongst others http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/ (http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/)

anything anyone knows about in Leicester? http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/ (http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/)

Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: Paulos on April 05, 2011, 12:30:23 pm
This youtube clip shows a good V8 I found at High Rock, near Bridgnorth, Shropshire.  100 2396 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fc9D6p72NSA#)
The camera died just before the finish, which is: right foot up onto the sandy ledge on the other side of the corner, RH in corner crack and LH press to move up and gain a standing rest in the corner ~1.5m off ground.  Graded for good conditions, which is Feb-April, after condensation dampness in winter has gone and before the place gets shaded by trees and totally infested with insects. No clumsy footwork please, as the rock is very soft and prone to erosion.
 
A problem, maybe V7, traverses left from the arete across to join the obvious line of chipped pockets up to the break at ~5m (avoid the chipped foothold at around waist height at the start of the up problem which is maybe V5 without the chipped foothold)

I've also developed quite a few decent problems (V6-V8) at Ippikins Rock, which i made a topo for if anyones interested

Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: andy_e on April 07, 2011, 12:04:38 pm
I read somewhere it was gritstone, i did think it was sandstone though.

"Gritstone" can vary so much anyway it's a very loose term. It's all sandstone though.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: JonnyPeka on April 12, 2011, 12:19:53 am
Im in the west mids, around Wolverhampton near enough, I actually went out today to find some outdoor bouldering spots, i actually found a number of different walls to boulder, all sandstone but plenty of bouldering problems to overcome.
If there is anyone around that area, by all means get in touch and i could show you.
I did take some photos, i'll try and get them up tomorrow. :w00t:
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: boo on June 11, 2012, 11:20:47 am
Just found this thread from way long ago.  I am looking for good bouldering spots in Shropshire... Any suggestions?  The spot near Bridgenorth sounds good.  Just somewhere to pack off to after work on a summer night would be great. Thanks!
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 11, 2012, 11:44:23 am
Where are you based? The best stuff is a few miles north of Shrewsbury on decent sandstone. Grinshill probably best place to start, then try Nesscliffe. I've not been to the spots round Bridgnorth but I think they are more limited and the rock gets softer the further south you go.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on June 11, 2012, 12:04:52 pm
It's back.



I really like Grinshill, bit hard to find some stuff but really nice when we did.

Maybe Churnet isn't too far?  (My directional skills are a bit to be desired)
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 11, 2012, 12:12:53 pm
Churnet is a fair way as you have to cross the great wen of Stoke to get there. Heighley castle would be a better bet, right side of the M6 at least, but it depends where our man is based.

You been getting out much James?
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: James Yeah on June 11, 2012, 12:23:11 pm
Ah okay didn't realise. I just know Churnet is one the nearest places to me.

Yeah a bit here and there, spent about 6 months off with a dodgy middle finger but getting back into it.  Went to the Roaches not long ago and been Churnet a few times recently.  Need to start going out lots more which will hopefully happen as soon as i get a car in a month or two.




Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: peakphil on July 05, 2012, 07:47:39 pm
This youtube clip shows a good V8 I found at High Rock, near Bridgnorth, Shropshire.  100 2396 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fc9D6p72NSA#)
The camera died just before the finish, which is: right foot up onto the sandy ledge on the other side of the corner, RH in corner crack and LH press to move up and gain a standing rest in the corner ~1.5m off ground.  Graded for good conditions, which is Feb-April, after condensation dampness in winter has gone and before the place gets shaded by trees and totally infested with insects. No clumsy footwork please, as the rock is very soft and prone to erosion.
 
A problem, maybe V7, traverses left from the arete across to join the obvious line of chipped pockets up to the break at ~5m (avoid the chipped foothold at around waist height at the start of the up problem which is maybe V5 without the chipped foothold)

I've also developed quite a few decent problems (V6-V8) at Ippikins Rock, which i made a topo for if anyones interested

I lived in Telford for a year in '06, and Ippikins is pretty cool for something local; really good for HVS-E2 and some fun boulder problems out from the big overhang/cave,  I never really gave much thought to claiming/naming anything though.

A look at your topo would be cool :-)
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: notbadforafatlad on July 09, 2012, 08:49:34 am
Does anyone still boulder at Kenilworth Castle these days? It did rate a mention in Extreme Rock if I remember correctly.
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: granticus on July 10, 2012, 02:47:25 pm
Not lived in Warwickshire for 8+years now but security at the Castle was stepped up considerably when I did live nearby and climbing there was put to a stop.  You probably wouldn't get away with it if you tried. 
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: bowen watt on September 23, 2012, 09:38:43 am
I too am new and am looking for somewhere that is actually near Birmingham for my son who is keen to get outdoors more. I do mean near though as opposed to 40 odd miles away. Any suggestions?
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: tregiffian on September 23, 2012, 10:08:18 am
Is The Wren`s Nest out of bounds and/or stupidly loose?
Title: Re: Outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 23, 2012, 02:36:38 pm
Quote
am looking for somewhere that is actually near Birmingham for my son who is keen to get outdoors more. I do mean near though as opposed to 40 odd miles away.

You're out of luck really I'm afraid, its not a part of the country blessed with much rock. The West Midlands guidebook, if you can still get one, covers the worthwhile stuff but its all in Shropshire. On the plus side though, there is some very good stuff within an hours' drive - the southern Peak District particularly. The Roaches is a great place to start and a nice day out for any family.

There's a useful interactive map here if you want to explore the options: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/ (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/)
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