UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Nike Air on June 18, 2012, 10:24:07 pm
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Has anyone any Beta for this, I can struggle my way to near the bottom of Not bad daves lefthand starting sidepull but cant get anywhere near getting set up to enter the original problem.
Have some jugs come off!!!?
Cheers.
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If I remember correctly there was a video online showing Nige on the project traverse, the first bit effectively being what you need. On phone at present so can't help further, sorry.
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Has anyone any Beta for this, I can struggle my way to near the bottom of Not bad daves lefthand starting sidepull but cant get anywhere near getting set up to enter the original problem.
Have some jugs come off!!!?
Cheers.
Hi Jordan, hope you're well. GCW is correct there was a video of me trying the full traverse of this buttress on Youtube at one point, however I've done a bit of searching and can't find it! It was Greg's vid so maybe he knows more? You really need that, I can't remember the sequence at all. It is definitely very involved and not at all obvious though!
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I've had a look and only came up with a still of Nige on said project.
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Looks like its not on net any more. Shame, wouldn't mind seeing it myself for old time's sake.
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Looks like its not on net any more. Shame, wouldn't mind seeing it myself for old time's sake.
When men were men and boulderers knew there place?
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Hi Nige, I'm not bad thanks.
You are right its very involved, guess i better go back and lay under there again sticking various feet in various locks and see where i end up.
Not often I'm clueless, normally just to weak to do what I envisage!
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I wonder if that huge lump of rock I pulled off early last year was needed? It may not have been crucial but not sure if anyone has done NBN since March 2011?
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Fat bugger!
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Looks like I was trying to climb this lower than the video shows..
Where did the block come off from by the way?
Nige's Project (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lPNG_S7WYU#)
Is that Wolverine climbing?? :strongbench:
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That's the one!! You searching is obviously better than ours!!
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The block was a chunk from the left hand undercut- the bigger one you get once your right is on the glued crimp.
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That's the one!! You searching is obviously better than ours!!
Greg tipped me off!
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Ha ha, you could have kept quiet and we'd be highly impressed! An honest man. :lol:
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Does anyone have any beta for shorties on this??
I had a play today but couldn't work it out. The way Greg C does it with the toe jam in his vid was too much of a stretch, so was hoping there might be some other method that works.
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I can't help you with shortie beta on it sorry (having failed to find any myself), but as a shortie Woodwell can be a tricky place due to the 'span to the lip off a distant toe' style of many problems. Here's four that felt steady to me at a similar grade (I'm 5'4):
Griddle Groove sds (without kneebar)
Beauty of Being Numb (without toehook)
Embargo
Dannys Lip into Embargo
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Thanks for the suggestions kettle.
Yeah I'm keen to do Danny's lip into embargo, did the two separate problems the other day but didn't really think of linking them.
Beauty of Being Numb sounds like a good shout too, I thought that had gone when Art of Self Destruction etc fell down, so haven't really explored that end. Will take a look next time I'm down there.