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yeah the logic that a short boulder close to the ground = a lower E grade still doesn't make sense to me. This is baffling. For a given tech grade, things that earn a bigger grade are sustained, length, danger etc. Things that earn a lower E grade are shorter, safer, not sustained etc. What doesn't make sense?
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« Last post by Fiend on May 07, 2024, 09:27:14 am »
Bonus points for the first people to post about ticking something new to them that they only discovered in this book...
 Sure it's a bit warm now (although DPiddy does highlight a lot of shady and/or moorland grit options), but back in winter I had some good times exploring some new-to-me problems in Grit Bloques....Part 1 in Yorkshire....
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« Last post by Offwidth on May 07, 2024, 09:24:06 am »
Of course it's ridiculous. Six of us, including both FAC members, wrote a letter to Council and Board last March (23) about serious concerns around overall finances, areas that seemed to demonstrate lack of financial control, serious stakeholder communications in GB Climbing, overoptimistic looking forecasts of membership growth and breaches of our governance requirements (wrt informing Council) and a number of other issues. Subsequently Council formally challenged the Board in April (23) under our governance rules.
Mismanagement and substandard Board oversight had led to these problems. Since that time Council have been doing our best under our governance remit but we only advise on general strategic and financial direction: Senior Management run the organisation day to day, under the guidance of the Board.
Further management problems in 2023 occured until our CEO left. Then until the end of 2023 we were in a holding position due to remaining management and Board having to cover the CEO work alongside managing a restructure in some areas to cut costs and sorting out several other problems (including reassuring funders and funding partners). The situation in 2023 was further complicated by a shift to a new finance system (good in itself but it made 2022 information harder to retrieve). Things finally started improving quickly in 2024 with the appointment of our new CEO.
We can't change the past but we can learn from it. Financial planning is more realistic. Improved financial openness is agreed across the BMC. Financial control in GB Climbing will be strictly maintained. Stakeholder engagement in GB Climbing must be seen to improve: we hope current plans will acheive that but if they don't (and sadly there are still clear issues visible for now, around athlete quotas) everyone is watching, so the plans will have to change again. Plus lots of other initiatives too.
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« Last post by joe-m on May 07, 2024, 09:12:55 am »
Aubin Salmon has done Nirvana, an old highball project in Puiselet that has been tried by a few enthusiasts over the years. Guillaume Joubert has already top-roped the prow a while ago at a suggested grade of 8A+ with a precarious 7B mantelshelf sequence to top out.
Source: Grimper Magazine (photo Declerck/Bévillard
HVS 7b?
looks class, fair play that looks high!
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« Last post by stone on May 07, 2024, 09:06:57 am »
Would the top of WSS really be totally trivial for all Font_8C climbers?
I've seen a Font_8C climber fail to retro flash Tinof 7b because he got nervous, massively massively over-gripped the holds and pumped out (quite low down the route).
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So for JB, the start of a route could be a Font 8C slab into an E2 finish, and as long as you weren't pumpted from the Font 8C, then he'd still give it E2. FFS! At no point did I say that! That would be retarded. What I said was putting a ledge halfway up WSS would make it easier. Which it would. Making the start of WSS 8C would, for me, remove any E grade at all because the top would now be completely trivial, and no one is going to try/ do it without pads anyway. Maybe engage with the examples I’ve given rather than extrapolating to non-existent examples and then imagining my trad grade. It seems that you personally can only parse E grades by first grading them in French/ font grades, and then converting and bumping up and down a bit. I’m not sure this is a great approach. I would say start with the technical grade, but your bizarre view that the Uk tech grade is a somehow closed scale stopping at 6c suggests this is doomed to failure too.
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« Last post by Nails on May 07, 2024, 08:37:30 am »
Does it not strike you as more than a little bit worrying that the Finance and Audit Committee don't have basic knowledge of the finances. The notion that these "details" need chasing down is ridiculous. They should be readily to hand. There will be a considerably better breakdown of expenditure than that given in the Finance Report if you simply look at the Corporation Tax return.
I don't think members should actually focus on anything at all until there's some basic transparency regarding expenditure. The Finance Report is a massive red flag as the breakdown given looks like a deliberate attempt to muddy the waters and prevent members from seeing where money was actually spent.
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« Last post by remus on May 07, 2024, 07:47:14 am »
Doesn't sound like a typical headpoint experience either. I knew I wasn’t ready. I estimated my chances of falling at around two out of three, which is not enough for a block of this type. Plus, even though I had unlocked the moves, I hadn't yet managed to rope from the ground. At the same time, I was also afraid of not finding the motivation to start the process from scratch next season. I had 20 crash pads and two good spotters with Fabien and Simon. We placed them at the foot of the boulder, and I told myself that a fall in the main crux would be scary but probably not dangerous in the event of a good save. As for recovery, I knew how to do it, I just had to trust myself. So I decided to give it a try.
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« Last post by edshakey on May 06, 2024, 11:18:49 pm »
Flowers
Will Sharpe (who played Ethan in The White Lotus season 2 - also great) wrote and has great role in this also v dark comedy-drama alongside Olivia Coleman, Julian Barrett, Angus Wright, Harriet Walter, etc. I think I avoided it at the time because it sounded a bit bleak, which it is, but it's also a total work of genius. Very funny, and also very powerful / poignant. Angus Wright's character doesn't have a huge part, but what he does with it is immense. He's like the sexual tyrannosaur Mr Hyde version of the Dr Jekyll he played towards the end of Peep Show. Both of which are here - https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiXxq6589eDAxVkhP0HHfsKA34QwqsBegQIDRAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fvimeo.com%2F263165522&usg=AOvVaw3HFAGiWTeUuv4LW2aY81At&opi=89978449
Missed this a few months ago, but wanted to give it a bump. My favourite TV show, ever. V dark (from the opening scene, you have been warned!) but as powerful as anything I've seen - and very funny too. It's only 6x30mins per season, and only two seasons, so not hard to plough through, although that has potential to be quite taxing if you're finding it a bit bleak... also season two gets a bit odd but the final episode is so beautiful that I would implore anyone to continue the whole way. Hmm maybe I've highlighted a few potential downsides, so I'll balance it with another "it's really really really really good!". Great score too, from Will Sharpe's brother Arthur. I emailed him once and he was seemed nice - yet another reason to watch! Yossarian : your description of Angus Wright's character is brilliant 
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« Last post by seankenny on May 06, 2024, 10:26:47 pm »
Not a TV show per se, but if you’re a fan of French cop drama Spiral then you’ll probably enjoy this Le Monde description of a drug investigation in a Parisian housing estate: https://www.lemonde.fr/en/france/visuel/2024/05/01/a-deep-dive-into-a-small-narcotics-company_6670081_7.html
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