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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Doylo on April 12, 2008, 08:10:57 pm

Title: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Doylo on April 12, 2008, 08:10:57 pm: Holger the German has done the traverse of Pantymywn starting from the sitstart of Thug Mentality and finishing at the top of Firestarter. This is a very long problem which probably weighs in at Font 8a or F8b+ route grade. This effort was even more impressive considering that two holds on the Mental extension have broken recently making the problem harder. Pantontino has got some pics.
Also at the Mwyn Danny got the second ascent of his bro's Under Pressure/Be Ruthless link downgrading it to 8a with a slightly different sequence. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 12, 2008, 10:18:38 pm: Sounds like one for you Chris.....
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Monolith on April 12, 2008, 11:37:10 pm: Nice one Hol, and nice one for sticking with it.
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 13, 2008, 09:32:26 am: Great effort. He was doing many laps on the original V11 + a bit more when I saw him last month.

There and back next? :-\
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Doylo on April 13, 2008, 09:37:52 am: The original bit is probably a tricky 7c+ now the holds broke, i reckon the final thrutching across the break just about bumps it up to 8a.
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on April 12, 2008, 10:18:38 pm
Sounds like one for you Chris.....

Too many projects as it is sausage!
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: BenF on April 13, 2008, 10:49:32 am: Effort Holger! And it's not mono's through and through so he wasn't on home ground doing one armers on nasty pockets. Makes it worth while leaving the Frankenjura after all...
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Pantontino on April 14, 2008, 10:43:09 am: A pic of yer man Holger showing the closing sequence leading into the top of Firestarter:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Pantymwyn%20traverse%205%20280.jpg)

Plus a load more here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=340 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=340)
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Dr T on April 14, 2008, 12:30:31 pm: is there a topo for the bouldering in this area anywhere??
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Doylo on April 14, 2008, 01:01:15 pm: Quote from: Dr T on April 14, 2008, 12:30:31 pm
is there a topo for the bouldering in this area anywhere??

There is no up-to-date topo but there is one for the right sid eof the crag here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=327 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=327)

There is also a topo for the bouldering in the clwyd rockfax limestone.
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2008, 07:42:52 pm: Quote from: Doylo on April 13, 2008, 09:37:52 am
The original bit is probably a tricky 7c+ now the holds broke, i reckon the final thrutching across the break just about bumps it up to 8a.
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on April 12, 2008, 10:18:38 pm
Sounds like one for you Chris.....

Too many projects as it is sausage!

Speaking of projects, fancy a trip to last great project in Wales? Get a crew together with lots of pads....
Title: Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
Post by: Doylo on April 14, 2008, 08:31:37 pm: Quote from: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2008, 07:42:52 pm
Quote from: Doylo on April 13, 2008, 09:37:52 am
The original bit is probably a tricky 7c+ now the holds broke, i reckon the final thrutching across the break just about bumps it up to 8a.
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on April 12, 2008, 10:18:38 pm
Sounds like one for you Chris.....

Too many projects as it is sausage!

Speaking of projects, fancy a trip to last great project in Wales? Get a crew together with lots of pads....

not my scene, i'm a married man...