UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: dave k on July 10, 2007, 02:12:15 pm
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As quoted from High over Buxton guide
I climbed the two most obvious lines on this boulder today.
Front face with arete for RH, also side face with arete for LH. Both felt max v8. The second problem is stunning. The first looks harder than it is.
My mate tom also climbed the arete above the wall on friable crimps/holds- high ball v3
Anyone done these problems before?
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Shit -forgot to say its Wolf Edge
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Awesome, great work - that was 'the' project of the HOB guide! And thanks for emailing the details. Neither of them have been done before as far as I know. I will hopefully get out there soonish to try them; you got any pictures?
Dan w
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Just emailed (Graham)
Side face is now "Project Quantum"-v8
Front face is now "Quantum Leap" - v8
LH arete over nasty landing on friable holds (but still a nice problem) is "Swiss Cheesed" - v3 - unless my mate Tom who boldly took the 1st ascent, snapping a hand hold with his foot at he topped put, decides otherwise.
Tom has a picture of the butress on his phone - not seen the picture myself (think it only shows the front face though)
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LH arete over nasty landing on friable holds (but still a nice problem) is "Swiss Cheesed" - v3 - unless my mate Tom who boldly took the 1st ascent, snapping a hand hold with his foot at he topped put, decides otherwise.
I assume the remains of that building are still there then. I bailed from the top of the V3 several times due to 'the fear'.
I had forgotten how much I enjoyed the problems out there. They may not be the best, but its a lovely walk in and a great 'away from it all' feeling place. The big v0 arete there, and the technical V5 ('underground' i think) are some of my favorite problems.
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sweet. always meant to go back here and try these with more mats, looks pretty good.
best problem there I thought was this is my church thing, especially when you top out and nearly fall down the other side!
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Yes the wall/building is still there. Makes for quite a dodgy landing for the left arete. The landings for the other 2 are not bad with a few mats (i had three!)
The Underground is quality.
Not tried this is my church yet. Looks wicked, but a tad conditions dependent. Next visit i will get on it.
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Not tried this is my church yet. Looks wicked, but a tad conditions dependent. Next visit i will get on it.
It helps to give the sidepull, and groove a brush from the top first, as it gets a bit sandy. Its usually so windy up there that conditions are fine for it!
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which problem is The Underground?
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quote from High over Buxton:
" Slightly further on you will come to a small butress characterized by a sharp arete"
"21 The Underground. V5 *. Start on a jug under the overhang. Move out to
the base of the hanging arete and then power up its right hand-side. An excellent
problem but feels a bit commiting dur to the small landing area.
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(http://i25.tinypic.com/2gviubn.jpg)
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Think that's the problem we did last word, with the ledge on the left.
For anyone visiting Wolf Edge in future, its a good little crag but I wouldn't bother with the quarry.
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Ah, the one called Gollum on Krank's vid. Good little venue.