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1
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by rjtrials on Today at 12:44:43 pm »
I suppose in my own mind, I view people who "steal" overly protracted closed projects more favourably than I do people who don't open them freely after they are several years old. But no one ought to mind what I think.
As mentioned above, the "stealer" often doesn't leave the route in an optimal state for repeaters.

As a direct response, how do you know if a project is defacto open or closed without directly talking to the person responsible for developing the climb ?
Are you relying on hearsay?

As an example, I was partly responsible for resurrecting a crag that had lain dormant since 2015.  Most of the routes had anchors that needed attention, and the name plaques had all faded etc etc.
I reached out to one of the developers, he sent a pic of his hand drawn topo. I started a Google doc and invited the other two main developers to add the info they had.  We put chains on some classics, I added / moves bolts etc etc .
It became a hopping zone this fall and not only were the people new to the zone psyched , the OG's were excited we were fulfilling the vision and making the crag better than they had left it.

Of course there were a couple undone routes and I was encouraged to finish them.

A wad was visiting one day, not falling on anything, and enquired if the projects were open or closed.

I told him I had talked to the bolters and had specific permission to do what needed to be done (I added anchors bolts, belay bolt, chains etc) and if he wanted to climb on the other projects he should do the same.  Crestfallen he waited until I sent and then casually flashed the second ascent.

But seriously, how hard is it to just text someone and ask about a line?  How lazy are you that you will whine about a 'closed' project yet won't pick up the phone let alone the drill, hammer , brushes etc.

Seriously you can GTFO with that attitude.  I've had this conversation in person many times and I just tell the wads to bolt their own projects, tell them a half dozen options, then mention how being a repeater of routes add nothing to the community.
2
beta - bouldering / Re: what's Hot Toddy RH?
« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 12:04:56 pm »
Decent problem, but not three stars however it's climbed.

Write a strongly worded letter to the guide book publishers :)
3
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by cheque on Today at 09:40:59 am »
4
shootin' the shit / Re: Climbers recovering from covid
« Last post by webbo on Today at 09:37:54 am »
I don’t know whether this has been mentioned on here but the Nuffield have a free long Covid scheme. I don’t know any details but it is mentioned when you ring their hospital switch board.
5
bouldering / Re: Limestone 7B
« Last post by teestub on Today at 08:21:53 am »
Does it have to be in or close to the Peak? If not, I highly recommend this:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lighthouse_area-272/force_majeure-365276#overview

That is a cracker! About 60 degrees steeper than most other Portland offerings too 😄
6
bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
« Last post by edshakey on Yesterday at 11:35:47 pm »
Almost seems like cheating to share Sam's videos in this thread, it'd fill it up!

Excellent film though. Jonny's dedication and commitment is a truly remarkable skill.
7
bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
« Last post by Bradders on Yesterday at 09:42:50 pm »
Surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet. Lovely video from Sam as ever.

https://youtu.be/q6i8QCic-Ow?si=XV8Sam-aGMO84zXA
8
bouldering / Re: Limestone 7B
« Last post by BAndy on Yesterday at 07:48:50 pm »
Does it have to be in or close to the Peak? If not, I highly recommend this:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lighthouse_area-272/force_majeure-365276#overview
9
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by kc on Yesterday at 07:19:19 pm »
A consequence of some wad rocking up and dispatching a project quickly, abandoned or not is they often have very little interests in what happens afterwards. There are numerous examples of routes left in a poor and filthy state with loose or missing holds, rusty cleaning bolts and even missing hangers/bolts. If I were to give a project away it would ideally go to someone willing to take ownership and pride in what they are going to leave when done.
I struggle to think of many worthy candidates to share my secret projects with.
10
beta - bouldering / Re: what's Hot Toddy RH?
« Last post by Bonjoy on Yesterday at 05:36:24 pm »
I'd agree with that. It depends where you want to set the bar though. Some areas/guides are more generous than others. Too much in either direction is either not very useful, or a recipe for disappointment.
In practice though most three star probs fall down to some extent on at least one of those measures, nature rarely produces perfection. Often stunning visual line have grim holds or moves, but end up with the stars anyway. My preference is for imperfection of line with great moves if I have to pick a defect. As such I'm quite tolerant of problems with simple coherent rules to fix their greatness e.g. defined start holds as opposed to simply a stand/sit start.
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