UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: tim palmer on August 18, 2014, 10:48:52 pm
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Hey would really appreciate anyone's thoughts on good low 7s to low/mid 8s in the jura preferably in the South. I have been to grune holle, eldorado, roter fels and reichelsmuhler wand before and really enjoyed them.
Thanks!
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Osho (8a) and Halloween (8b) at the crag opposite Marientelar Wand. Don't think it's in the guidebooks but it's dead obvious(steep overhang with 2 routes on it) . Cool 8a at Marientelar called Rupture or rapture and a nice little 8a round the corner called Leftfield. Hercules is a classic 7c+ at that sunny crag, Barenschulte or whatever it's called. Chasin the Trane classic 7c on same crag as Wallstreet and just over the road next to Action is Slimline 8a+.
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good low 7s to low/mid 8s in the jura preferably in the South.
I take it these are French 7s and 8s and not UIAA as used by the locals?
Beyond my level of personal experience grade-wise in that case, but just down the road from Roter Fels is Ankatal Südwand, which has classic 7s on it and looks very impressive in a most untypical way for Frankenjura: vertical crimping with no pockets.
Edelsteine is quite cool in a rather more typical short punchy pocket-pulling style, although my attempts to climb there have been hindered by the fact that it seems to dry rather slowly, being deep in the woods, even though it it south facing.
People also seem to like Gotthardskirche, although it too is deep in the woods and my attempt to climb there was thwarted by complete failure to find it. Take a GPS.
You could also have a look at this big list of Franken favourites (http://topoguide.de/topoguide-Magazin/Sektoren_und_Routen_Franken.pdf)
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good low 7s to low/mid 8s in the jura preferably in the South.
I take it these are French 7s and 8s and not UIAA as used by the locals?
Beyond my level of personal experience grade-wise in that case, but just down the road from Roter Fels is Ankatal Südwand, which has classic 7s on it and looks very impressive in a most untypical way for Frankenjura: vertical crimping with no pockets.
Edelsteine is quite cool in a rather more typical short punchy pocket-pulling style, although my attempts to climb there have been hindered by the fact that it seems to dry rather slowly, being deep in the woods, even though it it south facing.
People also seem to like Gotthardskirche, although it too is deep in the woods and my attempt to climb there was thwarted by complete failure to find it. Take a GPS.
You could also have a look at this big list of Franken favourites (http://topoguide.de/topoguide-Magazin/Sektoren_und_Routen_Franken.pdf)
yeah, french grades. That list is amazing, thank you