I can see loads of people have questions all about the intensity, what it feels like, how much you'd do etc etc. Would it help if I spoke to the mods and arranged a time where I could be on UKB one evening and just answer a load of questions?
Tom
Erm.... Shark.....
Did you get the message I sent you where I said I have a job and can't do this on a midday slot ;)
Evenings only for me I'm afraid. Sorry!!
can I get a refund?What was your question? " which of the following will get my bouldering grade back up to 7c, pushing a trolley round Waitrose for 30 mins or vacuming for 90 mins".
can I get a refund?What was your question? " which of the following will get my bouldering grade back up to 7c, pushing a trolley round Waitrose for 30 mins or vacuming for 90 mins".
Just to be clear:Tom Randall Q&A 8.30pm this Friday
Have sorted it out with Simon/Shark.
I'll be on here this Friday evening at 8.30pm once the kids etc are in bed. Look forward to seeing some puzzling questions from people and no questions about Blancos, The Oak or Dense. They're impossible to answer, unless you're the right hand of God.
Is this about Yoga?
I was being silly - but not meaning to diss Yoga - it's something I'd like to try and have been meaning to put up a thread asking some questions about it some time (but haven't... Yet)
Climb 4 times on plastic lagers, there that's saved Tommy a bit of bother
just some general advice about arriving in France in April in decent condition would be appreciated! Thanks :popcorn:
Sport climbing!!!????! WTF!!??!?
A few various spots are being considered including Font, Strasburg and Swizzy...
January - Weight loss and general conditioning (Pilates, weights, diet)
Q for Tom:
'Energy systems' -An/aero cap/pow. Why? Is it 'scene' led (UK training/comp scene personalities) or is it deemed (if so by who?) to be the best available model for understanding energy systems as they relate to climbing? What's the benefit - assuming one - of using this model versus others? And if models are partly a fad/fashion specific to nationalities (not saying they are, just wondering), then what different models for understanding energy systems are popular among top climbers & trainers in other countries or do they mostly all also use the aero/an cap/pow model?
(long Q sorry!)
(I have done The Sheep properly)
Just as a small request - if people want me to get through more than 3 replies you'll have to keep them fairly directed...
Paul B
Question for Tommy:
Do you create personalised training plans, and if not can you recommend someone who does?
Tom, you seem to really like tape, have you ever gone to bed taped up (accidentally or on purpose) if so what did the Missus think?
What do you think about a sponsored full body taping to help fund the next WideBoyz road trip?
Most importantly,
Are you regretting agreeing to this yet Tom?
Question for Tom
When designing your new Sublime brush, what was the thinking behind making the handle way too thick to fit into the brush holder on virtually every chalkbag on the market?
Thanks
Question for Tom
How do you feel about your Sublime brush being already synonymous with illegal/banned substances?
Thanks
February - Finger boarding (probably CWB/Max Hangs)
March - Climbing lots, aiming to stay uninjured
Question for Tomfurther to this - is the brand name any reference to your preference (or not) for different rock types?
Can you talk us through the process of the packaging scent (https://www.instagram.com/p/2UAQRJG_xi/?taken-by=sublimeclimbing) selection for your Sublime brushes?
Thanks
Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:
Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time
Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?
Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:
Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time
Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?
Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:
Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time
Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?
I may be wrong, but I thought adaptation time was the amount of time it takes for the improvements of a particular energy system to begin to plateau.
So spending more than 6 weeks on Aerocap would be a waste, as further improvements in that cycle would be negligible.
That being said, I would have thought 4-8 weeks (for example) of Ancap is better than 0 weeks of Ancap.
(Tom, my third question is whether what I have just wrote is nonsense?)
Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:
Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time
Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?
Sorry last one meant to be Aeropow. I'll try to edit my post thereby rendering TomTom's post nonsensical. :tease::)
Question for Tom,
Are the results of your testing confidential or can we find out who the biggest over achiever is etc? So weakest with highest grades (probably the best climber) or strongest with a relatively low grade? Route climbers who are overly strong or boulderers that would be better served on a rope!
I know this isn't really training related but it's pretty interesting amongst all the energy system chat!
What is the largest amount of weed anyone has been able to fit in a sublime brush?I heard it was a 40 Oz to freedom but I believe it was more like 2 joints
What is the largest amount of weed anyone has been able to fit in a sublime brush?
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Unless you're Adam Ondra, surely that's high intensity AeroCap? 7b-7c at the wall generally equates to 7c-8a outside in my experience (I've never understood why walls grade routes so hard, if I owned the wall I'd make them as soft as a Spanish stam plod and keep my punters' egos massaged...)
Unless you're Adam Ondra, surely that's high intensity AeroCap? 7b-7c at the wall generally equates to 7c-8a outside in my experience (I've never understood why walls grade routes so hard, if I owned the wall I'd make them as soft as a Spanish stam plod and keep my punters' egos massaged...)
Alccap or Alcpow?
Alccap or Alcpow?
Accapi? (http://www.accapi.co.uk/company/)
My question:
You recently mentioned something about people doing wasted miles at the climbing wall. I was wondering whether you could clarify what that it is as I am beginning to wonder if I am doing wasted miles. My "stam" training at the wall tends to revolve around climbing 7b-7c to the top feeling a medium to high level of pump and then down climbing 6c-7a shaking out and trying to recover and then re-climbing the same up route fighting the pump all the way. I get a pretty high level of pump after this and then rest 15 mins and then try and do another 2-3 sets.
1. Is this wasted miles?
2. What am I actually training (anaerobic capacity etc?)?
Right.... what shall I do? Start at the first Q back on page 2 and work through? How many of the drug related Sublime questions to ask (very valid questions)... etc etc.
Where's sensible thinking moderator when you need one?
Cheers for offering to do this! Not sure if you read through my thread you originally posted on Tommy but I'll ask on here anyway.
I'm currently into the 2nd week of a 11 week training plan geared towards 2 short 7c routes which are basicly bouldery and involve ~15 move sequences. The moves are fine in isolation but when linking I power out. This is what also happens to me on every route I redpoint, I rarely get pumped or find moves hard in isolation I just power out quickly when linking sections of hard moves. I've bouldered 7A/+ and redpointed 7b+ but still power out on ~7a routes at the best of times. Never figured out what the missing link is but just climbing alone never seemed to improve this.
There was mixed opinions on the other thread as to how much importance I should pay to each energy system during this plan given the short time frame; some saying not to do any AeroCap/Pow at all and concentrate on strength and AnCap/Pow. What would you recommend (Don't worry about to much detail) and what is the importance (if any) of AeroCap/Pow when it comes to short routes?
Sorry for the long question, cheers!
What? I thought he was supposed to be putting the kids to bed!?
Cheers for offering to do this! Not sure if you read through my thread you originally posted on Tommy but I'll ask on here anyway.
I'm currently into the 2nd week of a 11 week training plan geared towards 2 short 7c routes which are basicly bouldery and involve ~15 move sequences. The moves are fine in isolation but when linking I power out. This is what also happens to me on every route I redpoint, I rarely get pumped or find moves hard in isolation I just power out quickly when linking sections of hard moves. I've bouldered 7A/+ and redpointed 7b+ but still power out on ~7a routes at the best of times. Never figured out what the missing link is but just climbing alone never seemed to improve this.
There was mixed opinions on the other thread as to how much importance I should pay to each energy system during this plan given the short time frame; some saying not to do any AeroCap/Pow at all and concentrate on strength and AnCap/Pow. What would you recommend (Don't worry about to much detail) and what is the importance (if any) of AeroCap/Pow when it comes to short routes?
Sorry for the long question, cheers!
Yours first Luke as you're keen.
So the question is if you're quite capable of doing the moves, but as soon as you get a certain way into something you power out and thus can't hold on? And you don't get a hideous pump? Then it can potentially be a few things - never a simple answer eh?!
1. What I see the most of: people have overly developed the anaerobic system and rely on this primarily for energy. It only runs for a limited time at max. They power out.
2. What I see less of: people have a poorly developed aerobic AND anaerobic system. Thus they need to be overly strong for the route and will only keep going once they have utilised as much as they can of the anaerobic alactic and what ever they can out of the anaerobic lactic. They power out.
Solution - depends on which of the above you're more likely to be.
1. You develop you anaerobic system harder and work the aerobic system in conjunction so that AnCap doesn't shut down so early.
2. You work on better base strength so you can get away with over powering the route on option 2.
My question:
You recently mentioned something about people doing wasted miles at the climbing wall. I was wondering whether you could clarify what that it is as I am beginning to wonder if I am doing wasted miles. My "stam" training at the wall tends to revolve around climbing 7b-7c to the top feeling a medium to high level of pump and then down climbing 6c-7a shaking out and trying to recover and then re-climbing the same up route fighting the pump all the way. I get a pretty high level of pump after this and then rest 15 mins and then try and do another 2-3 sets.
1. Is this wasted miles?
2. What am I actually training (anaerobic capacity etc?)?
+1 for this. I thought aerocap is "pumped but in control" which means I can get quite pumped - over say 6 reps of a 10m wall on an autobelay. But is this wasted miles? What sort of aerocap effort/duration should I be looking at for either Euro endurance routes or UK trad, ie Pembroke-esque pitches?
Since there seems to be cross over between strength and anaerobic capacity work - would a sensible approach for those who are time limited be to focus on anaerobic capacity and aerobic capacity?
My question:
You recently mentioned something about people doing wasted miles at the climbing wall. I was wondering whether you could clarify what that it is as I am beginning to wonder if I am doing wasted miles. My "stam" training at the wall tends to revolve around climbing 7b-7c to the top feeling a medium to high level of pump and then down climbing 6c-7a shaking out and trying to recover and then re-climbing the same up route fighting the pump all the way. I get a pretty high level of pump after this and then rest 15 mins and then try and do another 2-3 sets.
1. Is this wasted miles?
2. What am I actually training (anaerobic capacity etc?)?
+1 for this. I thought aerocap is "pumped but in control" which means I can get quite pumped - over say 6 reps of a 10m wall on an autobelay. But is this wasted miles? What sort of aerocap effort/duration should I be looking at for either Euro endurance routes or UK trad, ie Pembroke-esque pitches?
You should consider aerobic capacity training as anything which results in an improvement in your aerocap. It's kind of that simple! But.... of course there are some methods which are more efficient than others and some which will work better for your personal goals.
AeroCap can be a whole range of intensities and volumes and rest periods - if you're stressing the aerobic system, then it's going to have benefits.
Over the years, I've found that the middle zone of climbing just about in control has worse results than splitting the intensity - it's simply an observation from writing hundreds of plans and looking at what happens. I've likewise tried these things out with my own climbing. I haven't trained in that middle zone for perhaps 4-5 years now?
BUT..... I do think it still have some use at certain times of the year - in particular as a transition into the peak period of training for route climbers. Try and think of it not being a perfect answer for every scenario. It has its place, but think about why you're using it.
I've got two, possibly silly, questions with regards to bouldering.
1) Is periodisation (as addressed in RCTM and Barrow's Training for sport climbing) the best way to improve in the long run for someone who doesn't necessarily care about training for an upcoming trip/peaking?
(I'm aware both documents are primarily aimed at sport climbing.)
Furthermore,
2) Is it still worthwhile trying to follow (or design) a periodisation training plan, if I still plan on climbing outside (and performing to some degree) every weekend?
[If it makes any difference I'm currently trying to establish myself in the high 7's/low 8's.]
I've got two, possibly silly, questions with regards to bouldering.
1) Is periodisation (as addressed in RCTM and Barrow's Training for sport climbing) the best way to improve in the long run for someone who doesn't necessarily care about training for an upcoming trip/peaking?
(I'm aware both documents are primarily aimed at sport climbing.)
Furthermore,
2) Is it still worthwhile trying to follow (or design) a periodisation training plan, if I still plan on climbing outside (and performing to some degree) every weekend?
[If it makes any difference I'm currently trying to establish myself in the high 7's/low 8's.]
So for a climber aspiring to climb in the mid 8s say what would an example of training the end zone be for example?
Cheers for offering to do this! Not sure if you read through my thread you originally posted on Tommy but I'll ask on here anyway.
I'm currently into the 2nd week of a 11 week training plan geared towards 2 short 7c routes which are basicly bouldery and involve ~15 move sequences. The moves are fine in isolation but when linking I power out. This is what also happens to me on every route I redpoint, I rarely get pumped or find moves hard in isolation I just power out quickly when linking sections of hard moves. I've bouldered 7A/+ and redpointed 7b+ but still power out on ~7a routes at the best of times. Never figured out what the missing link is but just climbing alone never seemed to improve this.
There was mixed opinions on the other thread as to how much importance I should pay to each energy system during this plan given the short time frame; some saying not to do any AeroCap/Pow at all and concentrate on strength and AnCap/Pow. What would you recommend (Don't worry about to much detail) and what is the importance (if any) of AeroCap/Pow when it comes to short routes?
Sorry for the long question, cheers!
Yours first Luke as you're keen.
So the question is if you're quite capable of doing the moves, but as soon as you get a certain way into something you power out and thus can't hold on? And you don't get a hideous pump? Then it can potentially be a few things - never a simple answer eh?!
1. What I see the most of: people have overly developed the anaerobic system and rely on this primarily for energy. It only runs for a limited time at max. They power out.
2. What I see less of: people have a poorly developed aerobic AND anaerobic system. Thus they need to be overly strong for the route and will only keep going once they have utilised as much as they can of the anaerobic alactic and what ever they can out of the anaerobic lactic. They power out.
Solution - depends on which of the above you're more likely to be.
1. You develop you anaerobic system harder and work the aerobic system in conjunction so that AnCap doesn't shut down so early.
2. You work on better base strength so you can get away with over powering the route on option 2.
+1 for question 1
If you aren't training for a specific route does your approach change? Work on the caps and strength rather than the pows?
Thanks!
Cheers Tom, I guess I fall into catagory 1, I can recover pretty well on rests and climb with a pump so aerobicly I guess I'm OK. I seem to power out 6 moves into both of my projects so must be just relying on my anerobic system which fails early on. I've already been working AnCap lately as part of my plan. By working the Aerobic system in conjuction would that include AeroPow as well as AeroCap?
Cheers
Q1)Am I strong enough to do Fisheye? ;-)
Q2)In your training beta podcast/interview you discuss relative peak forces the human forearm can create. What do you consider to be a maximum for the human forearm? 80kg? More?
Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:
Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time
Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?
So for a climber aspiring to climb in the mid 8s say what would an example of training the end zone be for example?
If you're redpointing 8b+, then it's volume training at around 6b-7a and interval style short block training at around 8a. Those grades somewhat depend on how many years you've training, how good your baseline of endurance is etc etc.
I doubt there'll be a "one size fits all" answer to this, but how rigid do you advise writing a training plan? Should you know how many sets you should be aiming to do a few weeks in advance?
Also, do you have any reccommended reading for a climber interested in how muscles adapt to training? I know that my body is on the fairly extreme end of being suited towards long "plodding" activities and it would be cool to know how to go about changing this (developing more fast twitch fibres?).
Cheers Tom
p.s. The fact that I don't need an excuse to be on UKB on a Friday night after exams says something about my life these days...
Great question. if the above is a true summary - i.e. the adaptation time is the plateau time - does the 80/20 pareto rule apply to these periods - so you would get 80% of the response in 20% of the time?
I've got a few, mainly on behalf of my better-half (N.B. - at her behest):
- So, last year wasn't a bad one for her given she did her first F7b (Sticky Wicket), quickly followed by her second (Ground Effect) and she then nipped in on the eleventh hour to rumble up Slab Culture (first 7b+). Definitely struggles with the bouldery-side of things at Kilnsey (i.e. usually the starts, and more generally) but when redpointing it'll take a reasonably long time (these were ~10 sessions I think) with her getting up to the 'red-point crux' and falling off before one time everything just works (this is usually followed by falling off the finishing jug for good measure before an actual ascent). In my mind there's three things going wrong there (if we ignore the punting the top part) - general strength, aerobic capacity (arriving more pumped than necessary due to working anaerobically) and/or anaerobic capacity (linking continuously difficult moves together), am I even vaguely correct?
Assuming I can ask a question now and it will be answered on Friday...
I have a Euro trip coming up in three months. My loose plan is;
January - Weight loss and general conditioning (Pilates, weights, diet)
February - Finger boarding (probably CWB/Max Hangs)
March - Climbing lots, aiming to stay uninjured
Throughout - Try and fish a bit less and climb more...
Does this sound like a reasonable plan (bearing in mind I have a very busy job/lifestyle and the weather is shit)?
I appreciate the limitations of the question and the format of this Q&A session therefore, just some general advice about arriving in France in April in decent condition would be appreciated! Thanks :popcorn:
So for a climber aspiring to climb in the mid 8s say what would an example of training the end zone be for example?
If you're redpointing 8b+, then it's volume training at around 6b-7a and interval style short block training at around 8a. Those grades somewhat depend on how many years you've training, how good your baseline of endurance is etc etc.
Hola Tom. Does adaptation time refer to the point after which gains plateau, or begin to be retained?
From http://www.brianmac.co.uk/energy.htm
"Anaerobic Capacity refers to the body's ability to regenerate ATP using the glycolytic system and Anaerobic Power refers to the body's ability to regenerate ATP using the phosphagen system. "
(The times given for use of the respective systems are (from beginning exertion ) Anpower the first 1-4 seconds and Ancap 4-6).
Do the terms Aeropower and Aerocap similarly refer to the lactate and glycolytic/O2 systems of energy production respectively? I haven't seen them in non climbing literature.
I am asking this quite abstract question because it seems that the best way forward might well be be trial and error once I've grasped clearly how the different systems contribute energy ...
Thanks for your time!
Jon
So for a climber aspiring to climb in the mid 8s say what would an example of training the end zone be for example?
If you're redpointing 8b+, then it's volume training at around 6b-7a and interval style short block training at around 8a. Those grades somewhat depend on how many years you've training, how good your baseline of endurance is etc etc.
Depend on how long it took that person to redoing the 7b+. If they took 5-10 goes then yes 6a would be fine. If it took them 203 goes then 6a+/6b might be more on the money. BUT..... it all depends on how good their baseline fitness is! That's why when you read anything about training and try and apply it to yourself, don't blindly follow the numbers. If it all feels wrong, then change it, or get reading/asking questions. Bottom line in this case is that you do NOT want to be pumped.
Hope that helps!
So the 7b+ redpointer should be looking at 6a volume at the very maximum...?
Hope that helps!
You would just train aerocap for someone powering out on left wall?
Cheers Tom, I guess I fall into catagory 1, I can recover pretty well on rests and climb with a pump so aerobicly I guess I'm OK. I seem to power out 6 moves into both of my projects so must be just relying on my anerobic system which fails early on. I've already been working AnCap lately as part of my plan. By working the Aerobic system in conjuction would that include AeroPow as well as AeroCap?
Cheers
Ok, so this is a classic mistake people make. Just because you can recover at a jug doesn't mean you have good aerobic capacity (sorry!). Far from it. It's a part of the equation, but when you;re resting on a jug we're not seeing how your muscle produces ATP aerobically... it's not an indiction of the efficiency of that system exactly.
And no, just work aerocap for this I would say.
Thanks..so that terminology would make lactate/pyruvate an energy system for Ancap?
(the site I quoted gives 4 minutes as the limit for lactate produced energy.)
Right, my forearms as dying and my social life has gone :-)
One more question!
.... what do ya wanna know?
Right, my forearms as dying and my social life has gone :-)
One more question!
.... what do ya wanna know?
Tom, I'm in the curry house. Madras or Dopiaza?
Ok, so this is a classic mistake people make. Just because you can recover at a jug doesn't mean you have good aerobic capacity (sorry!). Far from it. It's a part of the equation, but when you;re resting on a jug we're not seeing how your muscle produces ATP aerobically... it's not an indiction of the efficiency of that system exactly.
And no, just work aerocap for this I would say.
You would just train aerocap for someone powering out on left wall?
So for a climber aspiring to climb in the mid 8s say what would an example of training the end zone be for example?
If you're redpointing 8b+, then it's volume training at around 6b-7a and interval style short block training at around 8a. Those grades somewhat depend on how many years you've training, how good your baseline of endurance is etc etc.
Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:
Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time
Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?
Yup, there's always benefits! You might not reach your own peak in each in a shorter period, but you will almost certainly achieve some adaptation. What's also not to be underrated is that you'll learn a lot. In those first few years of self experimentation wit training and different sessions I learnt absolutely loads about intensities, what rest I needed, what didn't work that said it would in text books, what things I had to do less of for me personally.
Yeah go for it - you're bound to learn a load with your eyes open :-)
Just a thought but if another Q&A happens again with either Tom or anyone else it might be a better option to collate the questions asked then the answers recorded via audio or video? (Not live)
It would be much easier than trying to type like maniac and would be quicker?
You wouldn't have then been afforded rejoinders as you did, you'd have had one stab at a question and got a single answer.
С того дня я ни о чем не думал, кроме побега, измышляя способы осуществить мою мечту, но не находил ни одного, который давал бы хоть малейшую надежду на успех адрес (http://www.krascats.ru/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6175) Ведь вас село в лодку одиннадцать человек: где же остальные десять? ссылка (http://www.nbbch.org/bedo/webNBB/index.php?topic=512789.new#new) Отец мой, который был уж очень стар, дал мне довольно сносное образование в том объеме, в каком можно его получить, воспитываясь дома и посещая городскую школу линк (http://systalk.ru/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=18659) Мой отец был родом из Бремена и основался сначала в Гулле сайт (http://www.herpes.ru/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=209747) Закупив на все мои сто фунтов английских товаров, по указаниям моего приятеля капитана, лондонский купец переслал их ему в Лиссабон, а тот благополучно доставил их мне в Бразилию ссылка (http://squad.zp.ua/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=987071) Как и в первый раз, я взобрался на корабль по веревке; адрес (http://www.podvozim.ru/tools.php?event=profile&pname=pitaevsKl) Однако, ярмутский рейд считается такой же хорошей стоянкой, как и гавань, а якоря и якорные канаты были у нас крепкие; сайт (http://viewsmart.com.cn/bbs/home.php?mod=space&uid=103589) » И я взглянул на море адрес (http://memberhub-tsch.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=64160) Рискните сначала только этим линк (http://forums.socialpointgames.com/member.php?951889-pitaevsSr) Затем, взяв с меня слово, что все, что я от них услышу, останется между нами, они сказали мне, что у всех у них есть, как и у меня, плантации, и что ни в чем они так не нуждаются, как в рабочих руках сайт (http://collinstreet.club/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=115291)
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