UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Fiend on October 06, 2007, 05:23:36 pm
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Posting this on here as I reckon at least two regulars will be down with the vibe :)
Amongst many great features, the fragile but fantastic North Wales Rock has got me unduly and unsensibly inspired for the Lleyn Peninsula. A combination of the spiffing crag photos, intriguing descriptions, benevolent climate and a vague sense that if it got in the selected guide then maybe it is climbable after all. All of that and my own natural perversion for esoterica...
Thus, my mission: Lead (and survive) all the E2-E4 routes in the Lleyn section except Vulture which sounds just too lethal and Samurai which isn't really in the sea-cliff choss spirit. Which leaves me:
Trwyn Maen Melyn
Bardsey Ripple E2 5b - done, cool route, utterly bizarre rock, quite a trip.
Incredible Surplus Head E3 5c - failed, dropped off the finish due to heinous pump, merciless top-out
Pen Y Cil
Manx Groove E3 6a
Craig Dorys
Knowing Her E2 5b - done, first Lleyn route, steady and good fun, a bit committing higher up.
Cripple Creek E3 5b
Direct Hit E4 5c
The Mermaid Who Shed Her Glove E4 6a - done, highly terrifying start, looseness less of a problem than lack of gear, still satisfying.
Byzantium E4 6a
Cilan Head
Rastus E2 5b
Path To Rome E3 5c
As you can see I've made a start. In at the deep end with Craig Dorys maybe but it just looked very good. Lucky to be there on a stunning day (could see down to Pembroke), and a really beautiful place. The contrast of it's tranquil setting and the anything-but-tranquil climbing was quite intriguing. Then onto Trywn thingy which was equally beautiful and equally intriguing.
More awaits....!!
A couple of questions for the masses i.e. Pantontino & JB:
> "Gwyna Melange", you made that up didn't you. Although it fits the nature of the rock perfectly!
> On the subject of which, is CD really Arennig Grit (mixed with Shale)??
> Direct Hit - after finding TMWSHG serious enough, I feel somewhat wary about straying away from the crack systems onto the face. Should I be worried, scared, or terrified?? It does look good though...
> Manx Groove - being a groove system with a tidal start, how high is the probability of getting down there, traversing in, and finding it gopping??
:thumbsup:
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if you have not done samurai then itmust be done - it is inly 30 yds from the dea and is outstanding. theres another good route there called ironing which i have heard is unrepeated (take this last sentence somewhat tongue in cheek - the emoticons wont work)
Just berware fiend that you wont necessarily be able to clinb at your grade.
we did wylfa corner by porth ceriad and though the climbing matched the grade the state of the rock and the belay at the top werew disticntly not HVS.
Another top reccomendation is fantan B at trywyn y gorlech.
not done path to rome but JB sings its praises.
i think some of the rcok is a little better in the aberdaron area.
the hvs and e2 traverses at dorys look brill.
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> On the subject of which, is CD really Arennig Grit (mixed with Shale)??
Not in a position to dig out my info on this (did my geology dissertation on Cilan), but I don't think so, from memory. The western crags on Cilan are the grits, much older than pennine grits beinmg Cambrian in age. The shaly sandstones that make up Craig Dorys overlie them with a marked unconformity (representing a period of uplift and erosion before continued deposition) are a fair bit younger - Ordovician - though still pretty old. The best view of the unconformity is at the base of the western end of Dorys where the banded shales that overlie the grits are cut across at the top at an angle by the base of Dorys.
> Direct Hit - after finding TMWSHG serious enough, I feel somewhat wary about straying away from the crack systems onto the face. Should I be worried, scared, or terrified?? It does look good though...
The Mermaid... got E5 in the last two guides and deservedly so I think, the worst route on the wall revolving around a nasty bold pull to exit the cave followed by easy rambling. Direct Hit is a much better route, I'd say easier overall, though it requires a determined approach for the first twenty feet.
Wanton Desire is the stiffer version moving right above the cave and up a faint seam, and even better. Both involve some bold climbing on snappy holds, though there is loads of gear in the horizontals there is a big gap to reach the headwall which gives the crux of both. If you've filled the breaks with enough cams though they should be fairly safe. If you get up either ok then Honeydew is very good also, the bold bit is low though making it less safe. Tricam 1 useful.
A good tip on Dorys generally, but Golden wall in particular, is to let the wall get a good baking in the sun and then climb in the shade of late afternoon. The rock is much less snappy when its been properly dried out.
Cripple Creek is very good, first fifteen feet grim then very good, more gear than you can place - a very american style pitch. Byzantium id maybe the route of the cliff though, an amazing pitch, generally steady, crux on the good rock at the top. Other Dorys essential tick is Three Dandy Scuttlers, up the amazing varied terrain right of the Byzantium wall.
Vulture is the big tick really, just to do a route on Cilan main is a major experience. Man up!
As clm sez, Samurai is very good and well worth a visit. Beware the diagram in the guide is wrong - the belay is exactly in the centre of the photograph not the top (belay tat is just visible in top right of photo on preceding page). Follow the text, not the line on the photo, and you'll be fine.
Haven't done much in the Uwchmynydd area sorry!
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It's easy to fall under the spell of the Lleyn Peninsular - it has a peaceful, but slightly unsettling atmosphere. Certainly an intriguing place to hang out.
As JB's post highlights, opinions vary on the grades and quality of routes at Dorys. Part of the problem is that these routes don't receive much traffic (despite this being one of the more frequented crags on the peninsular) and part of the problem is the conditions which can be tricky.
My geology consultant for the entire book was Mike Hammill - it is possible he got some of the rock descriptions wrong, but he's always struck me as being a respectable source.
Apologies about the Samurai topo mistake. Other people have pointed this out - I'm not sure how that slipped through the net? :shrug:
Path to Rome is obviously one to go for, although personally I was slightly underwhelmed by the lack of exposure/position - compare this to any of the Yellow Wall routes at Gogarth for example. That being said, the climbing is interesting, and the rock is quite funky - just make sure your partner is happy leading at least E2 (and that you've got loads of kit, both for the main pitch, and the ab belay). I haven't done it, but I have it on good authority that Rastus is an 'excellent introduction' to the area.
Vulture seems to split folk into those who were utterly terrified by it and those who thought it over hyped. I know someone who did Crow this summer - they were rather shocked at how full on it was. I pointed out that we did put it right at the top of the E5s in the graded list.
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Crow is not technically difficult for E5, it can't be that hard either as I don't really lead the grade. Having said that, I obviously wouldn't reccomend it as a good introduction to the area, I saw Sean Myles after he seconded it and he was traumatized. What really upset him was arriving at the second belay to find the Wainwright perched next to the remains of a bolt he'd just destroyed.
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Wasn't Mermaid the one I followed you on Adam? Agree that was bold, E5, although had a pretty crummy line. And yeah, Byzantium is superb. Can't think of a pitch I've done on Gogarth that's better.
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The one we did with Gedes? (sp?) No, that was Wanton Desire, which I thought was a good line. Its the only line of weakness up a big section of headwall - not much weakness but enough. The Mermaid... starts up the cave then goes left up the diagonal crack to finish up that death corner you warmed up on.
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I think Vulture is undergraded at E4. I did the first pitch much more direct than now described (E5 in itself) but the top pitch, whilst probably not hard E4 in itself, is just in too committing a position. I swung leads on it with an experienced North Wales adventure climber who on the day balked at the top pitch. If I'd been a weaker climber along just to second we'd have been stuffed. The route needs a better than E4 team really.
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Meant to say Path to Rome is as good as everyone says and relatively sane. Did Land Rights the same day, this is good and easier but much hairier, we had two very close encounters with loose blocks. As JB says Cripple Creek is fine after first 15' - the grade seemed spot on.
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Cheers guys, thanks for all the views!
Just berware fiend that you wont necessarily be able to clinb at your grade.
Bit late for that!! Did have a bit of a moment on Mermaid thinking "WTF am I doing climbing at my trad limit here??"
Will consider Samurai then.
Not in a position to dig out my info on this (did my geology dissertation on Cilan), but I don't think so, from memory. The western crags on Cilan are the grits, much older than pennine grits beinmg Cambrian in age. The shaly sandstones that make up Craig Dorys overlie them with a marked unconformity (representing a period of uplift and erosion before continued deposition) are a fair bit younger - Ordovician - though still pretty old.
That makes sense. CD seems more sandstoney, Cilan looks more gritty.
The Mermaid... got E5 in the last two guides and deservedly so I think, the worst route on the wall revolving around a nasty bold pull to exit the cave followed by easy rambling. Direct Hit is a much better route, I'd say easier overall, though it requires a determined approach for the first twenty feet.
Hmmm. I would say E4 5c but proper E4 5c i.e. not E4 as in Cannibal or Resurrection E4.
I see what you mean about the quality as regards the balance of the route although I did really like the moves on the lower bit and the wall climbing to gain the corner. I chose it because it was a crack so more possible gear....and because there was some chalk on it....the chalk all stopped before the death crux getting stood out left in the groove though...!!
Thanks for advice on Direct Hit, I will give it a go. I do trust the general cams in break situation, but am wary of the start.
Didn't have any problems with conditions, it was dry and glorious!
Don't think I will try anything harder on Golden Wall though ;).
Cripple Creek is very good, first fifteen feet grim then very good, more gear than you can place - a very american style pitch. Byzantium id maybe the route of the cliff though, an amazing pitch, generally steady, crux on the good rock at the top.
Cheers. Getting psyched again already!
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And more...
It's easy to fall under the spell of the Lleyn Peninsular - it has a peaceful, but slightly unsettling atmosphere. Certainly an intriguing place to hang out.
Spot on, exactly what I felt.
My geology consultant for the entire book was Mike Hammill - it is possible he got some of the rock descriptions wrong, but he's always struck me as being a respectable source.
I'm sure he's a respectable source.....but on the other hand Lleyn isn't very respectable rock ;).
Vulture seems to split folk into those who were utterly terrified by it and those who thought it over hyped.
Despite it's stature and JB's recommendation, I still don't fancy it. Too terminal and to be honest it doesn't inspire me aesthetically nor in the style of climbing.
Cheers andy for your input too!
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> Manx Groove - being a groove system with a tidal start, how high is the probability of getting down there, traversing in, and finding it gopping??
Quite slim on a nice day.. it get lots of sun and the rock is a type that dries quickly and its only the starting ledges that are tidal. The Magic Seaweed surf forecast has a tide graph for Aberdaron here http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/) so you can make sure you don't get your feet wet.
Good effort on choosing Doris as the place to bust your Lleyn cherry
You ought to buy the full guide to get properly psyched..
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http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/coast/tides/tides.shtml?date=20071015&loc=0482A (http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/coast/tides/tides.shtml?date=20071015&loc=0482A)
Also tables here. I think BBC is in GMT, but I think MSW corrects for Daylight saving time.
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Vulture seems to split folk into those who were utterly terrified by it and those who thought it over hyped.
Despite it's stature and JB's recommendation, I still don't fancy it. Too terminal and to be honest it doesn't inspire me aesthetically nor in the style of climbing
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No, no, do it, its brilliant, a real trip and a lot of good climbing. Its not so much terminal as just committing as in hard to escape from.
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Falling Down - cheers for that, very useful to know it might be okay.
I'll get the full guide at some point but I want a managable ticklist for now.
Andy.....arrrrghhh!! You're no slouch and were suggesting it was "undergraded at E4". People seem to be forgetting how much of a bumbly I am here, lol. I've got to draw the line somewhere ;)
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OK, fair enough (though you seem to have done some hard enough routes at Doris) - just didn't want you leaving it for the wrong reason. When you feel ready its more than worth it.
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The Mermaid... is undergraded at E4 and the worst route on the Golden wall, yet you seemed to lap it up! Vulture has to be on the list, none of the folks I know who've done it have suggested its overgraded. Go do Path to Rome, then Rastus, and you should be well prepared.
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Vulture has to be on the list, none of the folks I know who've done it have suggested its overgraded.
Shurley shome mishtake?
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Yeah, I meant under, though what I wrote wasn't untrue either.
They think its E4.
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The Mermaid... is undergraded at E4 and the worst route on the Golden wall, yet you seemed to lap it up! Vulture has to be on the list, none of the folks I know who've done it have suggested its overgraded. Go do Path to Rome, then Rastus, and you should be well prepared.
LOL, I liked Mermaid okay, it was character building, it had a good line, and the bit from the crux to the corner was a very nice E1-ish thing. I wouldn't say I lapped it up, the most serious thing I've done this year.
I *may* cave into peer pressure and add Vulture ....but then again I might play the "There is no way I'm going to find a poor fool to do it with" card ;). Haven't got a partner for Path... yet!
Fingers crossed I'll be back soon. Think I might aim to do this lot this winter. Feasible yes?
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Feasible if you get on with it yes, bird-bans start in feb I think. Definitely some winter sunshine to be had round there though. Path to Rome and Byzantium both catch the sun nicely.
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One year (94?) in January or February I did the Snowdon Horseshoe in perfect winter conditions with my Dad on a Friday then surfed the following morning at Porth Ceriad and then knocked off a route in the Tyn Towyn quarries in shorts and T-Shirt that afternoon.
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Trwyn Maen Melyn
Bardsey Ripple E2 5b - done, cool route, utterly bizarre rock, quite a trip.
Incredible Surplus Head E3 5c - failed, dropped off the finish due to heinous pump, merciless top-out
Pen Y Cil
Manx Groove E3 6a
Craig Dorys
Knowing Her E2 5b - done, first Lleyn route, steady and good fun, a bit committing higher up.
Cripple Creek E3 5b - done, wobble wobble wobble at the start, great Dorys climbing higher up.
Direct Hit E4 5c
The Mermaid Who Shed Her Glove E4 6a - done, highly terrifying start, looseness less of a problem than lack of gear, still satisfying.
Byzantium E4 6a
Cilan Head
Rastus E2 5b
Path To Rome E3 5c
Just one small tick from a recent visit, wish I'd had time to do more. Had a closer look at DH and Byz when I was there, really inspired, was lying in bed thinking about them this morning. Was absolutely glorious there again, so much warmer than the crag top.
Falling Down - fancy a weekend there?? Follow me along Path To Rome and I'll be your bitch for the other day ;)
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Let me know when you get on Path to Rome, I'd really like to get some pics of it. Plus I can offer some accomodation in the area...
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Ray did this with hardly any pro. He didn't have many cams at the time.
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Ah, thanks for reminding me. Not trying to blag any accomodation, but do you or anyone know of any bunkhouses / hostels / uber-cheap b&bs / small fixed caravans in the area?? Somewhere a bit more palatable to crash out in a cold autumn evening than a tent... Used Eric's last time which was okay...
(I.e. one open to the general public)
Cheers if you do know...
P.S. Houdini, I'm a big girly wuss, I have lots of cams.
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Falling Down - fancy a weekend there?? Follow me along Path To Rome and I'll be your bitch for the other day ;)
I would but my schedule is pretty chocka between now and Christmas so it might have to be a quick raid, perhaps even during the week. I'll be sh*tting myself mind as I've barely climbed any routes this year... perhaps that will add to the experience.
The in-laws have a 5* pad in Abersoch so you'll not have to use a tent..
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Well, let me know, I'm flexible and up for quick raids. fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk and / or 07958 343645
No worries if you're busy tho, it's a long shot and I'm sure I'll find someone at some point. But it would be cool to meet up again.
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Trwyn Maen Melyn
Bardsey Ripple E2 5b - done, cool route, utterly bizarre rock, quite a trip.
Incredible Surplus Head E3 5c - failed, dropped off the finish due to heinous pump, merciless top-out
Pen Y Cil
Manx Groove E3 6a
Craig Dorys
Knowing Her E2 5b - done, first Lleyn route, steady and good fun, a bit committing higher up.
Cripple Creek E3 5b - done, wobble wobble wobble at the start, great Dorys climbing higher up.
Direct Hit E4 5c
The Mermaid Who Shed Her Glove E4 6a - done, highly terrifying start, looseness less of a problem than lack of gear, still satisfying.
Byzantium E4 6a
Cilan Head
Rastus E2 5b - easy ledge-shuffling, but crept my way up with some fear and spectacular rope drag.
Path To Rome E3 5c
Tyn Twyn Quarries
Samurai E2 5c - walked in, walked up, walked out, pretty tame, more Leicestershire than Lleyn, fun moves tho.
Got another couple done....well, an overall gain of one route as I added Samurai to the list for completeness.
Samurai was piss but suprisingly fun climbing. Thanks to JB for the route line info and Pantonius for confirming it, useful stuff.
Rastus was an interesting experience, aside from the vague element of cheese and rope drag. When we were setting up the abseil (good approach info, thanks), we saw at least 5 dolphins (or maybe porpoises) bounding past scarcely a hundred yards out to see. Amazing, never seen anything like that in the UK or for that matter almost anywhere else. Then on the route, on one of the grovels onto a guano-splattered ledge, I poked my head over and was confronted with stashed offering - a rabbit spine with the back leg bones and it's little furry paws attatched....
I think this sums up the Lleyn experience well: The beauty and the horror.
So....
4 routes left, I reckon that's 3 days, one for Path, one for Manx, and one for Byz and Dir Hit - 3 days in 3 months, should be cool. Path I think might be a bit of a sticker finding a partner, it also intimidates me a bit, so I'm making sure I keep strong. Manx, I had a look at the picture in the old Paul Williams and it's got me more inspired. The Dorys routes I will save till last as an almost final "treat", I know they will be fuck scary but they still inspire me.
Now then, I've also had a cunning plan. More cunning than a sack full of weasels. I will consider giving in to JB's or Andy P's pressure to do Vulture, but only if I do it with one of them. Or both. How about it lads?? ;)
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Now then, I've also had a cunning plan. More cunning than a sack full of weasels. I will consider giving in to JB's or Andy P's pressure to do Vulture, but only if I do it with one of them. Or both. How about it lads?? ;)
You must be joking, there's no way you'll get me anywhere near a pile like that!
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:lol:
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Well there we go :P
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Well there we go :P
I haven't changed my view on the 'must do-ness' of Vulture its just that you mistake me for someone who actually goes climbing and isn't completely rubbish and chicken.
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Really?
I thought Frodsham had been busy of late?
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Timely reminder for me there Houdini...
Andy (or indeed anyone else), I don't suppose you've soloed (or led for that matter) the two high roofs at Frodsham that were ludicrously given V7 in the Western Grit guide? The one at Great Buttress and the one at Cave Buttress. Tom's Roof and I Was a Teenage Caveman are the names. They're both about english 6c on toprope and as far as I know they haven't been soloed thanks to the dodgy rock, hard climbing, poor landings and their height above the deck.
Before they get recorded in another guide as toprope problems (Chadwick did the same in his guide), I will post a thread to cast the net out to see if anyone has been bonkers enough to solo either of them (and clarify a few other bouldery things on Cheshire sandstone), but since we're on the subject I may as well check now if Andy has done so.
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No I haven't. I think there may be one or two other things to do there as well. With a new guide in the offing it would be good to get Cheshire sandstone as near to completely developed as possible. Pete and I certainly both have ambitions left at the mighty Helsby. Just to add these would both be worthwhile propositions I think, especially the Great Wall one - haven't been on them at all though. Start the thread Ben.
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Start the thread Ben.
Oh go on then, twist my arm, lets talk about sandstone...
PS: Andy, I've now started a bouldering thread, do you want to start a routes thread for Helsby etc?
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Start the thread Ben.
Oh go on then, twist my arm, lets talk about sandstone...
PS: Andy, I've now started a bouldering thread, do you want to start a routes thread for Helsby etc?
Not sure I'm really keen to do that - it might involve highlighting all the gaps I've got my beady little eyes on.
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I will consider giving in to JB's or Andy P's pressure to do Vulture, but only if I do it with one of them. Or both. How about it lads??
Anyday, you name it, I'm well keen. However I'm also dead keen to get pictures of both Vulture and Path to Rome, let me know when you're planning on going down and I'll see if I can make it.
Effort on Rastus, I don't know too many folk who've done it. The cetaceans you saw would have been Bottlenose Dolphins - porpoises are generally solitary. That pod is resident in the area, last time I was down I spent an hour sat on the hillside near vatican zawn with binocs (one of my favourite places just to sit and stare anywhere, amazing,. there were about 50 choughs that day too) and eventually spotted them about a mile out doing cartwheels. They came past us at Charlie's point on the international meet too. Kiwi Kate was the only one who saw then though as having topped out first, she was facing out. Everyone else was climbing or belaying. Whilst on the subject, I wouldn't bother climbing there again.
If you're ever staying in Abersoch check out the turtle photography gallery, he's got some nice pictures of the dolphins and local landscape.
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A taker. You still have to lead every pitch Fiend.
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About 12 years ago (I know this because I wasn't married at the time) I was surfing Porth Ceriad on a late Summer evening with only me and one other guy out. The sun was setting casting purple rays into the sky... the swell was smallish but all of a sudden it jumped quite a bit and I took off on a wave, went to backdoor the peak and tucked into a short barrel as one of the local Dolphins leapt out in front or me as the barrel curtain fragmented into a thousand rainbow fragments before my very eyes.... amazing.
If you swim under water when the Dolphins are around you can listen to their clicks and whistles.
PS _ I'll do the routes with you mid week sometime in early December if we get the weather and you'll be patient enough with a gibbering wreck - I might not be up to Vulture though unless someone convinces me its VS ledge shuffling with a couple of pulls up vertical walls in between.
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A taker.
Dammit, arse, my bluff has been called!
You still have to lead every pitch Fiend.
Hmmm see that was the plan of doing with both JB and you, I would volunteer to be the middle man to not deprive you elder and younger statesmen of british trad of the experience ;).
JB:
Well I'll see how it pans out with Vulture (it would be the very last one). At any rate I will let you know if I'm heading over to do Path. I have a vague idea of getting Cookie over there for that, possibly early next week if the weather is good. I'll PM you whenever I know for sure.
Thanks for dolphin info, nice to know what they were!!
Falling:
I might not be up to Vulture though unless someone convinces me its VS ledge shuffling with a couple of pulls up vertical walls in between.
I get the impression the VS ledge shuffling bits are at least as worrying as the rest!!
Okay, if the mission isn't completed by Dec, we'll do something :).
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ill come down for a lleyn weekend - not going near vulture though
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JB:
Well I'll see how it pans out with Vulture (it would be the very last one). At any rate I will let you know if I'm heading over to do Path. I have a vague idea of getting Cookie over there for that, possibly early next week if the weather is good. I'll PM you whenever I know for sure.
Not working next week, keep me posted.
ill come down for a lleyn weekend - not going near vulture though
you big puff.
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:agree:
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Hmmm not sure it's happening this week, have a possible partner for the end of the week but forecast is not so good then...
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No progress due to weather :(
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/wl/abersoch_forecast_weather.html
This weekend dry but have been musing about whether 4-6'c, not much sun, and fair SSE-ly breezes are the optimum "hanging around on sea-cliff" conditions. Probably not.
However, in checking guidebook for crag orientations, have realised that (out of remaining hit list) only Cilan Head is bird-banned, Pen-y-Cil and Dorys aren't....so I only have 1 (well okay 2 if I fail to nimbly outwit JB) day/route to fit in before February. Quite a relief, might actually get the mission done then...
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Big wuss!!!
Grab a down jacket, and get yourself up them cliffs before they fall down!!!
Actually... that's more truthful than it should be. A mate went to Cilan (I believe) and spied "an awesome new line". Unfortunately it was too dark to do anything. He went back a week later and the entire cliff face was on the floor.
And for the record, I'm totally unjustified in calling Fiend a wuss, as I've never climbed on the Lleyn (except Porth Ysgo), and probably never will!
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It's not so much me, as suitable partners. I know a few people who are kinda interested but getting them there on a very cold weekend, when it's really my plan and inspiration, is unlikely.
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So give them your downie?
Surely someone as prolific as your good self knows a few of the Llaberis crew, who may have the weekend off. I'm sure I could name half a dozen guys who would be up for some Lleyn action.
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Surely someone as prolific as your good self knows a few of the Llaberis crew, who may have the weekend off. I'm sure I could name half a dozen guys who would be up for some Lleyn action.
Hmmm. I know naaaarthing.
It does look like it's getting suitable early next week, less wind and more sun. If you want to pass my details onto any other those half dozen guys, go ahead ;)
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http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/wl/abersoch_forecast_weather.html
Now my homepage >:(
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As Fiend's intended partner in crime for Path to Rome, I also have a question for the masses...
Lead E1 to E3 on various rocks, generally second E3 ok even if its not a route i'd be ready to lead, have some experience of sea cliffs in Gogarth and Pembroke but this route would definitely be top of my grade - should I be worried, scared, or terrified?? It does look good though...
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Being a rising traverse line on the first pitch you are relying on Fiend to put as much protection in as possible stop you falling too far into space should you fall. This means taking a double set of friends and even more in the sizes 1 to 2 if you can get some as this go in the small breaks with the most solid rock between the rock bands. To be honest the climbing is very steady most of the way with no real moves until you get to a protuding 'nose' which has to be rounded. Just take some prussiks to ascend a rope should you fall into space. Its more an E3 outing than having the technicality of normal E3s if you get what I mean.
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Being a rising traverse line on the first pitch you are relying on Fiend to put as much protection in as possible stop you falling too far into space should you fall. This means taking a double set of friends and even more in the sizes 1 to 2 if you can get some as this go in the small breaks with the most solid rock between the rock bands.
I can assure you Fiend will be crapping himself and lacing the pitch as much as is humanly possible. I have a double set of camalots and these days use them with great vigour in this sort of terrain.
Got a bloody shoulder tweak coming on, it's going to have to be a very careful month :S
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still like to photograph it fiend, keep me posted...
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Will do, dude.
Have booked to see Ozzy about shoulder tomorrow >:(