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the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: simon40 on January 18, 2019, 04:44:03 pm
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Any thoughts on rfj as first 8a. Looking at crimp wall climbing to play to strengths and longer term goal. Been on but not finished boltest and would do this as build up
Anyone been on rfj
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If the Boltest is anything to go by, I can think of easier ones...
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How tall are you?
The lower wall of Ruby has a move on it which is fairly straight forward if you're 175cm ish or above. I'm 171.5cm. For me the lower wall was the crux of the route.
The crimps on the top wall are smaller than on the Boltest but the moves don't feel as long. I think that, if crimpy techy wall climbing is your thing and the you can make the reach on the lower wall, it could be a good one to try
If you get The Boltest wired you could also try Tatonka/Boltest link for a more endurance based 8a
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Thanks
Not really looking for easy, more playing to strengths. Almost six foot whatever that is in inches so hopefully long enough
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The lower wall of Ruby has a move on it which is fairly straight forward if you're 175cm ish or above. I'm 171.5cm. For me the lower wall was the crux of the route.
The crimps on the top wall are smaller than on the Boltest but the moves don't feel as long. I think that, if crimpy techy wall climbing is your thing and the you can make the reach on the lower wall, it could be a good one to try
If you get The Boltest wired you could also try Tatonka/Boltest link for a more endurance based 8a
Any knowledge on how early in the year Long Tor dries out?
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The earliest I've climbed the was mid April but mainly July onwards.
It's seeps a fair bit and gets next to no sun so needs a good dry spell.
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Thanks
Not really looking for easy, more playing to strengths. Almost six foot whatever that is in inches so hopefully long enough
At 6ft you'll barely notice the move on the lower wall.
I'd say go for it!
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The earliest I've climbed the was mid April but mainly July onwards.
It's seeps a fair bit and gets next to no sun so needs a good dry spell.
Cheers, nice one. I've never tried RFJ as I'd heard it was very reachy- I'm 174 cm. Sounds like it's worth a shot though. I found the boltest pretty steady, or possibly just got lucky on it.
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At 174cm you might just about be able to reach it. If not it's certainly still doable just a chunk harder. You can get a good shake out though above the break before the upper wall.
Edited because at this time on a Saturday morning I failed to raise that 174 is greater than 171.5!
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Cheers, nice one. I've never tried RFJ as I'd heard it was very reachy- I'm 174 cm. Sounds like it's worth a shot though. I found the boltest pretty steady, or possibly just got lucky on it.
It'll be right up your street Toby!
The beta about height for the lower wall seems spot on. The guy I was climbing with (5'11?) didn't seem to notice the move on lower wall where I ended up doing a pretty big slap of some kind.
Incidentally, I got to play on Bonjoy's route Pistol Fingers before it was finished. The moves were very good. I doubt it gets the attention it deserves?
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I dropped by on Tuesday and the whole of the main wall was pretty dry, just couple of damp streaks. It looked like Boltest was fully dry, though the approach ramp was soaking.
I guess it will condense again with higher temps but it might mean an early start to the Long Tor season.