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places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: squeek on May 23, 2006, 11:55:43 pm
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I heard that it was in good conditions a few weeks ago, but with the current wettest-drought-on-record happening I was wondering if anyone could give an update on what's dry/wet at the minute as I'm thinking of going on Thursday.
Might be an idea to make this sticky? Although I suppose once Kilnsey dries out it generally stays dry unless it hamers it down for days on end, like now for instance.
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AKAIK it's piss wet through now. routes like 50 for 5 and the first section of The Ashes may be do-able, but pretty much everything else will be an overhaning waterfall. Which is a pity.
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anyone got an update on conditions
possibly heading out tommorow
cheers guys
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was really badly seeping on saturday. Cannot be anymore specific as it was my first time there and my climbing partner being familiar with the crag believed it was the worst he had seen it for ages. However it was sunny on sunday and monday so may be starting to dry out?
Cheers
Tim
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Was there on Saturday. Generally dry. Very few streaks, a bit at the bottom of the bulge on Ecstasy and the top of Dreamtime are the only ones I can recall. Still the odd pocket and break which are wet at the back though. It looks like there is still some water in the seapage system but it drying off as soon as it surfaces.
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Everything was bone on Sunday, but it was too warm, waaayyyy too warm infact
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Why weren't people there on Saturday? Most have been the only cool crag in the country - no sun and the full brunt of the south easter. Was belaying in a jacket!
Having said that it's not really a place for me ???
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Goredale was pretty cool on saturday too until the sun came round, but I agree with your sentiments - not sure if it's the crag for me :-[
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Does anyone know whether Kilnsey will be closed due to the heat at present?
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Bone dry, and open as of Wednesday. Its so close to the road it shouldn't get closed, I don't think. Too hot in the morning, but afternoons are OK. After 4pm on Weds it got positively cold. I even had to pop my t-shirt back on for a bit!
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Was very open yesterday (Thurs) but very very sweaty. At best.
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There was some drainage starting to appear yesterday around Marsala Martyr lots of (occasionally heavy) intermittent rain, so more leakage may have appeared overnight.
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All dry and in mint condition mostly today :thumbsup:
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What's the weather been like in England recently? Is Kilnsey still dry?
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Thw whole of Yorkshire is as wet as an Otters pockets AFAIK
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Goddammit, two weeks of stamina training at a climbing wall in munich and I come back to this shitty weather? :'(
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The Peak Lime is still in good nick though.... Try to get yourself down there, lots to do at 7a-7b on Two Tier, Max Buttress or the Embankment
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Cool, I'll try that then. Rubicon first, obviously... You going down that way next weekend?
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There were many big seepage lines at the start of today but alot of them dried back later on, lots of stuff still climbable
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As of yesterday afternoon
7C's to left hand side: dry enough to climb
Directissima: some wet holds but fine
Comedy/Pantomime: Dry
The Bulge: Soaking from undercuts
Urgent Action: Unclimbable ue to wet pockets in middle
The Thumb: Wet near bottom, but sort of climbable
Grooved Arete: Some wet holds at bottom, but climbable
Bouldering: Some slightly damp pockets, but pretty good nick.
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Are the pockets on Urgent dry-outable do you think?
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Nah, they looked pretty soaking, and there was seepage lines coming out of them. Don't know if Mick Lovatt posts on here or not, but he'd be the man to ask as he was on it.
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any conditions reports from this evening? Was looking dry all week but sounds like some rain fell today. Reckon slab culture area will be dry at the weekend?
Cheers
Tim
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seeping :boohoo: :wall:
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Has anyone any idea how bad it is at the mo?? Basically i'm up in Yorkshire aturday ,it looks too hot for Malham or the grit this week, so Kilnsey looks the best bet.....if it's not totally seeped out.
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Yeah wouldn't mind knowing too, particularly interested in the state of the north butress and urgent action...
Also does anyone know if Hollywood Bowl is dry?
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Urgent's still wet, the Thumb was probably just about possible. Crag wasn't in too bad condition, considering. Better conditions than the humid, sweat box that was Malham.
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Thinking bout heading up this weekend (weather permitting), anyone know how it's looking?
Ta,
:D
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When does Kilnsey usually come into condition? I want to get working...
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Months yet son!
Malham 1st, until it gets too warm!
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When does Malham usually dry then? I'm itching to get back on the limestone (for some bizarre reason)...
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I have been informed that March 20th, is the date Malham will be dry! :whistle:
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What time?
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I'm itching to get back on the limestone (for some bizarre reason)...
You might be better with giggleswick South or Robin Proctor's Scar, so I've heard, I've not been early in the year. I don't think they seep very much.
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Statistically Feb' usually has the lowest rainfall all year. Last year at Malham, Feb' was the best month of the year.
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Very much tongue in cheek.....
I will most definately be up there before March! :dance1:
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Same here. Overnight will be mine.
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I clicked on this thread and saw this at the bottom of the page
"As of yesterday afternoon
7C's to left hand side: dry enough to climb
Directissima: some wet holds but fine
Comedy/Pantomime: Dry
The Bulge: Soaking from undercuts
Urgent Action: Unclimbable ue to wet pockets in middle
The Thumb: Wet near bottom, but sort of climbable
Grooved Arete: Some wet holds at bottom, but climbable
Bouldering: Some slightly damp pockets, but pretty good nick. "
and thought 'wow... Kilnsey.. dry... in this weather...amazing" and then realised I was on page 1 of 2 :-[
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Everything was bone dry yesterday, no seepage whatsoever on North Buttress, mint conditions, warm with a gentle breeze, and only two other party's at the crag. Where was everyone :shrug:, Malham must have been hotter than a camels back.
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Was at Malham on Friday and it was very quite there too. All the routers must be in Pembroke
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Andy F/Bonjoy.....Was Urgent Action dry last weekend? weekend looks like it may be too warm for Malham....
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.....Was Urgent Action dry last weekend? weekend looks like it may be too warm for Malham....
I would think so - whole of North Butress looked to be pretty much bone dry. We were on Dominatrix and except for a bit of dust and tiny bit of dampness on the the very bottom it was in great nick.
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Great, cheers Ian
Was it pretty chilly up there? Malham was cold Monday with a breeze and little sun...major contrast from sunday!!!
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With almost no wind, it wasn't too bad at all. Got a little chilly for my liking later on but this didn't stop Andy getting his top off ;). With forecast looking quite warm for weeked as long as it isn't windy I would expect pretty decent conditions.
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Should be there on Friday, given the conditions it will be mint :great:
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Any fossils there? You have mail.
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but this didn't stop Andy getting his top off ;).
...which left all the alpha-males in the vicinity salivating... :-*
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Conditions were nigh on perfect today, bone dry, warmish with a gentle breeze up the valley. A few damp patches on Grooved Arete, but nothing in the way of the climbing.
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Warm enough for Andy's top to be off again...
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wet again after the recent downpour?
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Not as bad as you might think. Obviously North Buttress is fucked. Midges are more of a problem.
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Grooved arete area still ok, or wetter than an Otter's pocket???
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I believe it's wetter than a ducks' chuff, but I couldn't actually see through the clouds of midges.
It was bad - people died.
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Any chance we can get the Yorkshire bolt fund to buy some Agent Orange and blitz the place? :-\
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Nicked from Serpico, in bestest qwality Franglais:
Man avec gun was dry 'till the last hold
Froid steal dry 'till last holds
Le Directissima ok
Sticky wicket ok
Comedy ok
Ground effect ok
truth drug ok
Open road ok
Optional extra ok
Myra and subculture probably do-able
Grooved arete probably do-able
But then it pissed down as we left....
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anyone know what the latest is? Still soaking?
cheers
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As of yesterday almost all the crag was.... Dry :thumbsup:. Some damp patches on N. Buttress around Urgent Action, but everything else seems fine. There are a fair few active nests around the place and the Midgies were out in force, looking for fresh blood.
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Grooved dry Andy??
J.
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Grooved is very dry. Which is why I shall be throwing myself at it tomorrow. You due a sicky in work ;)
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Unfinished business on the Orme would be a better bet lad ;)
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That unfinished business on the Orme has definately helped with the unfinished business at Kilnsey. Will be keen to go and finish the unfinished business Orme-wise next week :goodidea:
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All my unfinished business will probably remain unfinished until I unfinish climbing like a horse. Best of luck finishing your unfinished business Andy.
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When I finish my unfinished business at Kilnsey you should have finished being unfinished with the horse climbing and be ready to have your unfinished Orme stuff finished along with me getting finshed with the unfinished stuff that need a finish.
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Getting this ting back on track, Kilnsey was mostly dry yesterday, with a few spots of seepage on N.Buttress, around Northern Exposure and FullTilt/Northern Lights. Nests still a problem on some routes, mainly at the RHS of the crag.
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What's wrong with the Finnish?
I need to finish what I've unfinished before it turns into a 15 year epic!
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Kilnsey was soaked today. Best forget about any North Buttress ambitions for a while.
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Any up to date news? Sopping i'm guessing...
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Does the buldge (let them eat jellybeans) get wet much? any idea what it's like at the moment?
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The Bulge does take a lot of seepage but as I've not been up for a while I can't tell you what nick it's in. Given the recent rain it may be wet. Hope this helps.
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Does the buldge (let them eat jellybeans) get wet much? any idea what it's like at the moment?
Reckon it'll be fecked to be honest. I went up there on Saturday and 70% of the crag was wet so we bailed to Malham, which was in a dire state itself. And on Sunday Malham was much much worse than it was on Saturday.
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Thought as much, guess the Kilnsey season is pretty much over for this year...
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Thought as much, guess the Kilnsey season is pretty much over for this year...
Pretty much all dry as of yesterday, good conditions as well :) (though that didn't stop me being rubbish) , almost nobody there though.
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Thought there was still some wetness on N Buttress over the weekend, eg I thought there were wet holds on the lower part of Urgent Action?
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Since I belayed a successful rp of Urgent Action its obviously not too wet. The odd slightly greasey hold was mentioned but nothing really significant. With no rain forecast for the next week things are looking good.
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Excellent, thanks for the news :thumbsup:
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I know it's a tad optimistic but here goes.... anyone know if anything is doable at the moment? Rain is forecast tomorrow afternoon but was considering a visit on saturday. There's always Malham but a change of scenery would be nice,
cheers folks
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Very dry wednesday,
Few usual seeps around north buttress but most stuff well on its way.
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right of North butress dry? Subculture/Grooved Arete especially?
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Didn't look any further than north buttress so not sure on that one. Other team at the crag mentioned an undercut/pocket still a little damp on the Ashes, don't know if this helps.
Cheers
chris
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If North Buttress is mostly dry I'd expect Grooved Arete/Subculture to be climbable as they come into condition a bit quicker.
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Going of 8a.nu someone did Subculture in last few days so i am guessing its in.
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Anyone got any info on conditions at present? Especially the north butress and grooved arete area.....cheers
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Anyone got any info on conditions at present? Especially the north butress and grooved arete area.....cheers
Just got back..... All dry, or at least anything that was a tad moist will be ok now with the high winds there today. Big Malc was there trying Gaz new thing.
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Most stuff had traffic today, was ok but tad warm at times.
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me and Paul B planning to go up there tomorrow. Weather in Pudsey (LS28) currently drizzle, if it keeps up all day today will it be worth going tomorrow? how long after rain does it seep?
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me and Paul B planning to go up there tomorrow. Weather in Pudsey (LS28) currently drizzle, if it keeps up all day today will it be worth going tomorrow? how long after rain does it seep?
It rainned a fair bit on Sunday, and it was blowing onto the crag quite hard. Might be ok, but your best bet will be Malham. Its where the wise old cats will be going ;-)
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it were allright last night. If anything, a bit on the warm side, but totally totally dry.
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Some seepage coming through today although nothing was suffering too badly.
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Pretty much everything dry today. Few drips under directisima, and Dreamtime may have been a tad wet in places. The Ripper has wet bits on easy sections down low.
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Cheers adam...
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There's been quite a bit of rain recently, does anyone know what the state of Kilnsey is at the moment, cant face another long drive to be confronted with another training session on the three reamining dry routes :boohoo:
ta!
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I too am intrigued. Tom Briggs said it was leathering it down at Malham on saturday, seems reasonable to assume it will be coming through midweek...
Sun and wind in LS28 this morning.
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got on pantomime and subculture today, both of which were fine barring a bit of moisture on their starting holds..
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i was at kilnsey all weekend and it pissed it down 70% of the time......expect a deluge of moisture coming through by midweek!!
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anyone been over the weekend? am hoping to go over tomorrow but wondered what the seepage is like at the moment? especially on comedy and subculture..
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Hoping to go to Kilnsey this weekend coming, anyone been in the last few days?
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Heard 2nd hand today that there isn't a dry route on the crag.
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So it's not 'sticky damp' then...
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Today's hearsay is that Kilnsey might not be too bad, but very midgey.
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Dry Sunday evening. A few pockets on Urgent Action looked damp, as did the start of the difficulties on The Bulge.
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Pretty much all dry today. Bottom easy bit of the ripper still a tad wet, as with the bulge start. Good wind up tonight and most should be in good nick tomorrow.
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Anyone got any idea how its looking at present and predictions for Fri/sat? Plus any info about condition of Gordale too would be great....? Cheers
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It was pretty good yesterday with pretty well everything dry, with the exception of Urgent Action and the other Nth Buttress routes. I predict that for Fri/Sat it will be the same or possibly wetter/dryer depending on the current vagaries of the weather.
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I predict that for Fri/Sat it will be the same or possibly wetter/dryer depending on the current vagaries of the weather.
I predict that you're probably right (one way or another :-\ )
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Nearly all dry bar patcheson North Butress and streaks below Mandella......
No breeze though so may be very midgey....
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Don't bother with Kilnsey anytime soon!
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I am putting up reports in 3 places now so, to save me time, ive just started blog for yorkshire conditions. This will include longridge which is almost on the border! I will try and get a few people updating this.
Hope i am ok to post this link bubba, if not, remove it straight away. Ive put a link upto UKB on it obviously.
http://yorkshireconditions.blogspot.com/ (http://yorkshireconditions.blogspot.com/)
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Mostly dry up there today....
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'Tis true :o. the odd damp patch on North Buttress, but apart from that all in good nick. Given the current mid term forecast it should stay that way for the next week or two at least. Get up while you can.
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I am putting up reports in 3 places now so, to save me time, ive just started blog for yorkshire conditions.
...
http://yorkshireconditions.blogspot.com/ (http://yorkshireconditions.blogspot.com/)
I just got 404 on that address :(
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I am putting up reports in 3 places now so, to save me time, ive just started blog for yorkshire conditions.
...
http://yorkshireconditions.blogspot.com/ (http://yorkshireconditions.blogspot.com/)
I just got 404 on that address :(
I got rid of it, easier to just post on here.......
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ok, np
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Kilnsey mint last night
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All dry and climbable on Saturday.
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Anyone know if kilnsey is likely to be in condition tues/weds 3rd/4th, particularly, comedy and frankie? cheers guys
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I heard it was dry in parts last week. Comedy stay's pretty dry but Frankie may well be wet.
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Anyone been up last weekend/this week? What's she looking like? cheers
routes of particular interest being the bulge, subculture and smooth torquer....
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Not been up this year but Subculture tends to dry quick apart from the very bottom, as does the Bulge. Given the weather we're having it's probably worth a trip.
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Well didn't make it to kilnsey today - went to goredale instead. No one else climbing there today but most stuff looked dry. Small amounts of seepage/dampness on the cave routes themselves but the majority of other routes on the wall looked dry enough. Safe to assume most of kilnsey is ok based on this?
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Great News, Did Supercool and Huecool look dry then? I suspec Kilnsey will be worth a punt if its not windy....as it will be baltic.
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Forecasting a westerly wind, so may not be to bad at Kilnsey.
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In good nick Monday. Odd patches of wetness on north butress and occasional wet hold on some other routes, notably the bulge and ecstasy.
If it stays dry this week it will be bone at the weekend! :)
Chilly breeze but good climbing temps
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Amazingly dry at Kilnsey now, no seepage on North Butress, cool breeze all day today....and hardly anyone there? Bonus.
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any knowledge from this week? T'bulge dry?
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may end up there tomorrow if its sunny, will update tomorrow if i do....
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may see you there - heading that way tomorrow.
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may be up yorkshire way tomorrow for change of scene and some stam training
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Will you be in the lumo tights?
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yes
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Then you have a cordial invite to the crag of Malham on Sunday. Bring your own lunchbox.
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I always do ;)
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Kilnsey was mostly dry today, but there was a bit more streakyness than a week or so back. Wet bits from Wiseblood to Deja Vu, a streak on the top of Dreamtime, some wetness at the start of the steepness on Ecstasy and the Bulge, didn't look much further along.
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crag pretty soggy today, still a decent few dry routes, but lots and lots of wet ones as well.
comedy, 50 for 5, ashes, frankie, ground effect all dry. most of north buttress looked pretty knackered.
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anyone been in the last few days?
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Anyone been past recently? I know there's a bit of rain and a little bit more forecast, but the weekend is due to be too hot and sunny for Malham, so an update would be good. Thinking about Grooved Arete in particular.
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Stoppped off for a quick look last night, the main overhang was dripping with some wet patches, still I was surprised to see some routes looked dry, many wet routes as well.
6b+ and 7a+s at the far left were dry, then some wetness until after the 6c grove, main overhang was raining, then some dry routes including comedy, frankie etc seemed dry.
Some wet patches along the crag as I went north, and north buttress seemed very wet and was dripping.
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dried out lots today..... most things up to optional extra additional and then some or whatever its called dry.... should be 90 % good monday
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Kilnsey bone dry.
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Bone today.
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All bone yesterday as well. Long may it continue :great:. A piece of advice for anyone heading that way - take midge repellant. It was fine with the wind blowing down the crag, but when it stopped the little buggers soon made an unwelcome appearance.
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All bone yesterday as well. Long may it continue :great:. A piece of advice for anyone heading that way - take midge repellant. It was fine with the wind blowing down the crag, but when it stopped the little buggers soon made an unwelcome appearance.
Midge Repellant?? This might be more apt.....
(http://cinsage.com/BeeSuit/BeeSuitFront.gif)
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All bone yesterday as well. Long may it continue :great:. A piece of advice for anyone heading that way - take midge repellant. It was fine with the wind blowing down the crag, but when it stopped the little buggers soon made an unwelcome appearance.
Midge Repellant?? This might be more apt.....
(http://cinsage.com/BeeSuit/BeeSuitFront.gif)
You want to take Maggie Philbin to the crag to scare the little blighters away?
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No biting little midgets today or wet holds. As we left yorkshire was being battered by hail, thunder and lightening though. Should not come through the crag for some time I hope.
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Anyone know if there's wetness coming throught yet?
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Anyone know if there's wetness coming throught yet?
Ill tell you later.
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not yesterday - although back of a few undercuts slightly dampish on a couple of routes. nothing to get all worried about though. dry and breezy today, should be all good.
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Bone on Saturday
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Mint again last night. Should stay that way for a good while as well.
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All still dry, but liitle wind meant muggyness was present
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All dry on Saturday, with a good breeze meaning no biters or condensation.
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a substantial amount of rain fell on saturday evening, but i didn't notice any seepage on sunday. Is this likely to come through on monday like malham (delayed seepage) or has it been so dry that this will not effect the seepage?
cheers
Tim
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It was still dry today, but then it royally pissed it down.
The Ashes is pretty well ever-dry.
Still and humid as hell though...
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any updated reports? Have the big 3 yorkshire crags been getting as much rain as we have in manchester?
Cheers
Tim
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Any news......? The suspense is palpable
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Everything is bone dry if that's what you're after.
Conditions - good until about 4 today then progressively worse as the breeze dropped and the midgies came out.
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Everything is bone dry if that's what you're after.
Conditions - good until about 4 today then progressively worse as the breeze dropped and the midgies came out.
Which is just after I got there >:( Did get slightly better later, but not by much. As Uptown said, all still very dry. Which is nice.
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Cheers Andy. Will see you there on saturday, think Tim's up as well.
stu
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On saturday, all routes on north buttress very wet but a fair few routes on other buttresses were dry like the Ashes, Cold Steal, Biological and Grooved Arete.
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much drier conditions on sunday. north buttress had dried back a lot by the time i left at 6pm, still some seepage present there but suspect that will be gone by the end of today.
cheers
Tim
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Hi All,
Any updated conditions reports? I believe there has been a fair amount of rain there on monday and tuesday... hows the seepage?
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As of 6pm today:
Northbutress = Soaked, all routes unclimable, including dead calm on the right etc.
The Bulge & Ecstasy = wet near the mid height break and just above
RH end = Subculture/Grooved arete area mostly dry, but wetness at start of daliance
LH End = Looked mostly ok, some wet streaks down trad routes in centre of face, ashes dry, streak reaching down onto dreamtime
China Crisis/Frankie area = mostly all dry
Ripper/Soft Option area = very wet, lots of wet patches and streaks, biological looked ok
Not sure about other areas not mentioned above.... fair amount of showers today but also sunny spells and a bit of a breeze so should improve....
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Gah, beaten to it :whistle:
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Oooooo sounds whack!! Anybody know if the area round 50 for 5 takes seepage?
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Oooooo sounds whack!! Anybody know if the area round 50 for 5 takes seepage?
Zeke Zeke Zeke! ;)
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If you bring the dingy!!!
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If you bring the dingy!!!
Zeke will be reet!
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Sticky Wicket, Ashes, All Out were bone dry. Might have been seepage on Indian Summer but I can't remember.
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Sticky Wicket, Ashes, All Out were bone dry. Might have been seepage on Indian Summer but I can't remember.
Cheers fella, i ll give some feed back after my visit tomrrow too.
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As of 9pm yesterday:
Similar state to wednesday. See North Country Boy's post above. Mostly dry under main overhang apart from Deja Vu area and some streaks around Dreamtime/Sticky Wicket. Think Ashes and routes to right dry. Still wet beneath Ecstasy/Bulge. Biological and Soft Option have a few wet bits near the start but dry higher up, so may be climbable. North Buttress still wet.
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As of 9pm yesterday:
Think Ashes and routes to right dry.
The runout at the top of the Ashes had wet streaks on it, may well have been climable for someone braver than me but my intial feel of the wet jug in the break above the last bolt was enough to put me off. It felt drier by the end of the evening and I'm hoping it will be dry on Sunday :please:
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Anybody know if Supercool will be dry Saturday? :please:
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As of 6pm today:
Northbutress = Soaked, all routes unclimable, including dead calm on the right etc.
The Bulge & Ecstasy = wet near the mid height break and just above
RH end = Subculture/Grooved arete area mostly dry, but wetness at start of daliance
LH End = Looked mostly ok, some wet streaks down trad routes in centre of face, ashes dry, streak reaching down onto dreamtime
China Crisis/Frankie area = mostly all dry
Ripper/Soft Option area = very wet, lots of wet patches and streaks, biological looked WET AT THE BOTTOM
Pretty much the same as mentioned before. Grim but dry stuff amongst the wet ones.
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It was, as Ian said, drying back on Thursday. If there's not been much rain then I'd expect that trend to contiune. The forecast for today is good, so it'll be drier on Sunday.
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I really like the term 'drying back'.
It was improving all day yesterday so I should imagine today and tomo will be worthwhile before the rains hit again sunday/monday.
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Amazingly dry yesterday. Most suff at the LH end ok, Ecstacy wet, Biological Ok, N.Buttress better than it had been for weeks, Under the Thumb okish, They Brush Me and routes to the R including Subculture and GA in good nick. But it did royally piss down yesterday so it may well be a lot worse in the next day or two.
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Probably heading to Kilnsey tomorrow. Any conditions reports gratefully recieved.
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Any word from today for potential trip tomorrow?
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What time are you planning on heading over Tanners? We'll be there from twelve-ish so I could text you a conditions report if you're going to be heading over later (assuming I can get a signal) to save you a wasted trip. Anything in particular you're interested in?
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We will be there before you. Early bird catches the worm. ;)
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Early bird catches the worm. ;)
Glad to see you've moved on from Rubicon, can I have a catch if I get there early too?
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Early bird catches the worm. ;)
Glad to see you've moved on from Rubicon, can I have a catch if I get there early too?
Only because its wet... ;) Not 100% we are going yet, but if we are, no probs. Wont be much earlier than 12 mind!
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did anyone get there today? it still dry?
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did anyone get there today? it still dry?
Yep, Bulge wet, WYSIWYG/Dead Calm wet. Most other stuff dry
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Quite a lot is wet. Pretty minging across the crag - although a few routes are still dry enough to climb. :boohoo:
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Quite a lot is wet. Pretty minging across the crag - although a few routes are still dry enough to climb. :boohoo:
to be marginally more specific, yesterday (saturday 1st) in the height of ming the entire north buttress was seeping, 50 for 5 was wet, directissima was entirely wet, bulge wet top of ashes wet, and comedy . Joy.... :alky:
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Was better on sunday though mate ? Going up on thursday with Jazzy Geoff. I hope the ming hath receded
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Any news?
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Any news?
Twasn't great yesterday - most of the usual streakers having streaks.
It must have improved for today.
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Anyone been up today? Is Grooved dry enough for me to throw myself
at it off it again?
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Pretty good today, these sunny mornings seemed to have done a good job drying the streaky bits off. :thumbsup:
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Much dryness present right across the crag, but some dampness in the pockety holds on N.Buttress.
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Quite a bit more seeping through today. A few of the popular routes have one wet hold on them. Or just wet streaks which are climbable but annoying to navigate around.
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Tuesday some seepage had started to come though from monday's rain, urgent still not dry and the bulge wet. Most other things werent too bad. Although it was raining when i left late on tuesday evening.
cheers
Tim
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Is the right hand end dry, esp atart of daliance?? Cheers
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Looked pretty good today, but I was only visiting. Nik or GirlyGuru will be better placed for the True Account.
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Dalliance was dry, but weather is not looking very promising for the near future apparently.
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anyone out there today? looking at the latest weather forecasts it appears the previously predicted heavy rain forecast has been rubbed out and its now gonna be dry..
a conditions report of urgent action would be most appreciated.
Cheers
Tim
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Is the right hand end dry, esp atart of daliance?? Cheers
Yesterday there was one wet hold at the start of Dalliance but Holger still pulled on it, do-able.
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Was GA all dry?
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yes
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Is the right hand end dry, esp atart of daliance?? Cheers
Yesterday there was one wet hold at the start of Dalliance but Holger still pulled on it, do-able.
Thanks Chris
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Was GA all dry?
GA starting to seep a tad on undercuts and pockets today.
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Was GA all dry?
GA starting to seep a tad on undercuts and pockets today.
Dry enough to RP today....
Most of crag was dry, few wet holds on north butress and start of daliance area routes...
Conditions weren't great though, majorly humid, midgey and heavy showers all day....might be more seepage in next few days
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Mostly dry yesterday, some seepage on N.Buttress inc Urgent. GA seeping on the undercut by the 2nd clip, Daliance damp upto the 3rd clip.
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Anyone been today, GA?
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Someone (other Adam?) was trying GA on Tuesday 18th. It was largely dry but a couple of holds were damp, though not terminally so. Most other things were climbable too.
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Dry today
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Dry today... bit humid.
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Pretty much all dry yesterday. Some dampness on N.Butress. Full Tilt damp at start, UA with some dampness in the pockets, most other stuff fine.
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By the end of yesterday the majority of the crag was FUBAR. Some stuff left of Directissima still hanging on, N.Buttress gone, probably for the year, GA and stuff right - forget it :wall: more wetness will come through overnight. Stuff right of GA hanging on as of last night but don't count on it staying dry. Malham season has been called.
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By the end of yesterday the majority of the crag was FUBAR. Some stuff left of Directissima still hanging on, N.Buttress gone, probably for the year, GA and stuff right - forget it :wall: more wetness will come through overnight. Stuff right of GA hanging on as of last night but don't count on it staying dry. Malham season has been called.
:o
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By the end of yesterday the majority of the crag was FUBAR. Some stuff left of Directissima still hanging on, N.Buttress gone, probably for the year, GA and stuff right - forget it :wall: more wetness will come through overnight. Stuff right of GA hanging on as of last night but don't count on it staying dry. Malham season has been called.
Gutted, cheers for the update Andy....
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By the end of yesterday the majority of the crag was FUBAR. Some stuff left of Directissima still hanging on, N.Buttress gone, probably for the year, GA and stuff right - forget it :wall: more wetness will come through overnight. Stuff right of GA hanging on as of last night but don't count on it staying dry. Malham season has been called.
That should read stuff left of GA hanging on (Subculture etc...)
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Even nappies weren't drying the holds quickly enough yesterday. ???
We (I) need an Indian summer.
Incidentally - it's probably worth avoiding this coming tuesday as the local Kilnsey show will be on.
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Anyone been today?
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Anyone been today?
Optimistic after your last post? You've probably put everyone off now Andy, yet I can see what's on your mind.
Time for a last looksee before the kids? :-\
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You guess correct. It's a vain hope, but hope none the less. Like grabbing water.
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if anyone is adventurous / foolish enough to brave the show / reported waterfalls today, a report would be much appreciated! cheers T
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You guess correct. It's a vain hope, but hope none the less. Like grabbing water.
i suspect grabbing water is very akin to what climbing at Kilnsey might be like today. :wall:
Tim
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if anyone foolish
we were......didn't know it was on till I saw a banner on the grassington road. Think they rounded up the three most annoying people in yorkshire to speak/shout down the speaker system all day.
Anyway, as for the crag, not in the best of shape either I'm afraid. Probably quicker to run through what was climbable rather than not:
Metal guru leftwards fine, sticky wicket and 50 for 5 looked alright (ashes wet up top), comedy & pantomime fine. ground effect and truth drug fine, frankie damp right at top but climbable, china crisis area screwed, north butress and subculture/grooved arete area screwed, including myra hindley, etc. Hope that helps.
Quite a few heavy showers passed over today as well.... :thumbsdown:
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Better make Sideshow, metal mickey or metal guru your project. Nothing else was dry today.
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Better make metal mickey your project
ok ;)
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Everything wet today, and i mean everything!
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Everything wet today, and i mean everything!
Was GA dry?
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Everything wet today, and i mean everything!
Was GA dry?
Not a chance!
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Nope, everything was in shocking condition. Condensation and seepage/run-off in an evil combination.
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Everything wet today, and i mean everything!
Was GA dry?
Not a chance!
What about Full Tilt? :shrug:
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Full Tilt is the first half of True North non?
Yesterday everything was grim, today things may be better (I dunno) but I'd guess Full Tilt (and North Buttress in general) would still be wet due to seepage. I'm guessing but I think GA would be the same. I may head there tomorrow so will provide an accurate report.
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Forecast is good for the rest of teh week and into the weekend :thumbsup:. Here's hoping...
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Full Tilt is the first half of True North non?
Yesterday everything was grim, today things may be better (I dunno) but I'd guess Full Tilt (and North Buttress in general) would still be wet due to seepage. I'm guessing but I think GA would be the same. I may head there tomorrow so will provide an accurate report.
What about Directissima?
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Book your GA slot early - this weekend is for the crush.
(shame I'll be in the scruffy peak(s) hey.)
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So you're saying GA is dry :o :-\ ;D
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anyone been today? surely getting back towards dry enough for some late season glory?
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Seconded :dance1:
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It was in pretty good nick on thursday so It'd suprise me if the conditions weren't prime for this weekend.
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I agree, should be nice there this weekend (if a little busy?). Go crush Andy.
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I would if I could find
someone mug enough to repeatedly belay me climb with :whistle:
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Two things:
1) the crag was almost all bone dry. Ecstacy wet, as was Full Tilt, UA looked okish, GA a bit damp on the undercut. A nice breeze blowing down the valley, conditions were primo. And no-one else was there so I baled to a baking Malham.
2) Don't post after a few beers :wall:
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Really good today, mostly dry. Ecstasy wet though, as is Dalliance.
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Mostly dry today. Full Tilt wet, GA undercuts a tad seepy, prob be ok with a bit of drying. Dalliance wet. Bulge wet.
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Cheers Adam. Will be there Sunday
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Anybody know if Urgent Action is dry? :please:
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Anybody know if Urgent Action is dry? :please:
I didn't really look but would think it would be ok. Final one for the collection ;)
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Thanks Adam. Yeah but I think the last could be the hardest for me and it could well be wet again soon but I can.t ignore it any longer!
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Should have posted this yesterday but as of Sunday pretty much all dry apart from some stuff on N.buttress (Full tilt, UA).The Daliance pockets were damp, GA undercut seepy but improved with ragging. If the lack of rain continues then they should/may improve further.
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Anyone been up this week? I guessing it'll be dry, but would like to make sure.
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should be heading there this afternoon if there is a particular route you want us to look at for you?
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Anyone been up this week? I guessing it'll be dry, but would like to make sure.
I'll check GA for you ;)
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Can you please check if Urgent Action has fully dried out :please:
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The big pocket by the 4th bolt was still seeping today, as was the groove just up and left.
It might be dry-able enough to do as the rest looked ok.
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GA? :-\
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GA? :-\
Seemed ok.
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We were only climbing around the main wall area upto frankie and everything was perfect. I had a look at your routes and they looked ok from the ground. but dont hold me to this as im only a punter. not much help sorry!
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Ga pretty dry today. Its on andy! See you tomorrow we are camping near by.
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Be there around 11 :great:
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Somehow yesterday was more seepy than Friday and Saturday, even though no rain for weeks.
If your travelling any distance for redpoints i'd stay away if your projects are
Dalliance, Full Tilt, Northern Exposure, Dr Crimp, GA Urgent Action. These are all workable but not redpointable!
Hopefully we will get another couple of weeks out of Kilnsey yet. :(
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Don't suppose you saw how Massala Martyr was looking did you?
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Don't suppose you saw how Massala Martyr was looking did you?
It was okay on Friday, but didn't look again Sat or Sun. I am guessing a tad damp in the foot break at start.
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Most stuff drying today. Dalliance jug rail wet. Full Tilt repointable. Urgent action probably ok. Grooved arete fine. Masala looked ok. Most other stuff fine. Oh, Bulge ok but Ecstasy maybe a tad damp before it gets steep.
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Heard secondhand that Kilnsey is holding in despite the rain. Not sure on specifics but all is not lost yet. :bounce: :dance1:
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It was almost all dry on Friday, although conditions weren't great.
Hopefully it can survive this weekend dampness because next week was looking pretty good last time I checked. Any Massala Martyr reports gratefully received.
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Massala Martyr, infact the whole crag was in as good a condition as I've seen it for well, this year. Absoluely mint conditions and only one other party at the crag. Where were you all?
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Where were you all?
Watching Under 9 rugby :wall:
Thanks for asking
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Mint conditions and??
(I was at a 5th birthday party, I'm glad I avoided the weekend crowds :))
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You loved it.
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I wouldn't have missed that party for anything, 'twas ace.
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Forecast on Metcheck till next Thursday is mostly dry apart from a little rain late this afternoon. That should give us a few more weeks at Kilnsey hopefully!
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Is Dominatrix still dry, Adam?
Annnnnd, is Cave Route RH still dry, does anyone know, aaaand, is it now a clip up, and if so, what grade is it?
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You still have to bring runners. A couple of extra bolts were added to the first half a few years ago, these were hammered flat but have been threaded with tat and can still be clipped. E6 6b/7b+ apparently
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Thank you JB.
Is the runners thing a pain in the ass?
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my friend climbed dominatrix on monday evening and all was dry then.
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Kilnsey all pretty mint according to a friend there yesterday. (Wednesday)
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Kilnsey is very dry, the undercuts on GA still look a bit damp (but probably still climbable Andy) but everything else seemed dry to my quick crag scan. Even the start of Dalliance was almost completely dry.
Grit or Lime this weekend? You decide...
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Cheers Nik and adam. Hope to be there on Sunday, so a nupdate on Sat evening would be nice :please:
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I'm planning on heading there Saturday so will post in the evening, but I think it'll be all systems go.
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Not too bad today. Starting to seep a bit in places. Rain as we were leaving. as of this evening all stuff redpointable but that may change over night.
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Better pack the rag then.
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Well Adam beat me to it, but I'd agree with his synopsis.
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How did you get on Nik? Any joy with the curry slave?
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It's getting there, but no joy yet.
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Mostly mint today, but cold later on. Dalliance looked a bit wet, almost everything else was Atacama desert dry.
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Seepage coming through now. GA looked possibily unclimbable today. Wet undercuts and start. Pocket probably moist too. Looking good weather from now till weekend though Andy!
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Cheers adam. I've just got to re-fit the bathroom in a one-er on Saturday to get my pass for Sunday :o
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Pretty dry today, GA looked mint.
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Sadly, my bathroom is looking less than mint :'(
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Noooooooooo, fuck it. Get to Kilnsey Andy, go go go. This is that time, crush...
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Sadly, my bathroom is looking less than mint :'(
(http://www.websmileys.com/sm/fingers/fing20.gif)
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Actually wasn't that great today. Pretty humid and damp underhand. Well that's my excuse anyway and I'm sticking to it...
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I heard a rumour that Massala Martyr got its hide TannedTM. Is this true?
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On Saturday, when conditions were apparently mint. Sunday was a bit guff.
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I heard a rumour that Massala Martyr got its hide TannedTM. Is this true?
:lol:
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Probably the best climbing conditions of the year today and not a soul in sight. Warm enough to climb, and a steady south-easterly to air those grips. Every route is dry, even the pocket on my project. Where are y'all?
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At work :( >:(. Pray for Sunday
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I hope conditions stay like today Andy. Go forth and crush.
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I would, but it's now wet, according to someone on the other channel :(
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Actually it was amazingly dry at the start of the day, but it was a lot damper at the end. And cold. I'd expect it to get worse over night, but the forecast is better this coming week. Well, warmer anyway.
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Anyone been to the steep one recently? Which routes are in condition? Forecast is good for the coming weekend, would like to get back on a few things...
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Anyone been up this week? Is the area around GA dry?
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Mostly wet with the odd dry patch. Or is that the other way round :-\ :P
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Mostly wet with the odd dry patch. Or is that the other way round :-\ :P
At last - a worthwhile conditions report, the crag looked busy on Saturday as I drove past - I might even have seen a Dunne. I noticed ropes on GA and Dalliance - how are they looking Andy?
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Both of those (and the project in between) were dry enough to work. Some damp spots on N.Buttress but everything else looked fine. Bollocks, the cat's out of the bag now >:(
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Mostly wet with the odd dry patch. Or is that the other way round :-\ :P
At last - a worthwhile conditions report, the crag looked busy on Saturday as I drove past - I might even have seen a Dunne. I noticed ropes on GA and Dalliance - how are they looking Andy?
Aye you did indeed see a Dunne. Urgent action still had some wetness in the pockets. The ashes was dry im guessing as it got two ascents.
lots of dead rabbit's beneath the crag on arrival. By lots i'm talking upwards of 20. Spent some time scooping them up with stones and flicking them down the hill as they were really rank. Bit wierd really, none of the carcasses looked killed by predators or gunshot. Reckon disease or related to exceptionally cold winter. Couple of dead birds of prey also. :shrug:
Cheers
Tim
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Pretty bone today. Few moist pockets on Dalliance, and around that area. Full Tilt had a clean, most popular stuff has chalk on it.
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Does it normally take a few days for any rain to come through at Kilnsey? Not a regular so don't know the score.. wondering about if a bit of rain yesterday/today/over the weekend is likely to leave it wet?
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Does it normally take a few days for any rain to come through at Kilnsey? Not a regular so don't know the score.. wondering about if a bit of rain yesterday/today/over the weekend is likely to leave it wet?
I'm keen for this beta as well, I'll be up on Sunday seepage permitting. I need to check whether the easier stuff is dry for the other half as well, open road etc.
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What routes do you fellas want seepage beta on?
Open road will be fine.
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What routes do you fellas want seepage beta on?
Open road will be fine.
Was Ecstasy dry Andy? Particularly around the belay of Nerve Ending and the start of the bulge?
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As of yesterday yes, and it's not rained too much today, but you know how these things are sooooo fickle.
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Has the seepage started yet?
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Has the seepage started yet?
Nothing yesterday, apart from a waterfall down Deidre. Would suspect a bit will come through for the weekend.
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ok how much did it rain in yorkshire yesterday then? as much as in manchester? hoping it was bakingly hot. but suspect not.... :(
:boohoo:
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ok how much did it rain in yorkshire yesterday then? as much as in manchester? hoping it was bakingly hot. but suspect not.... :(
:boohoo:
Will report back this evening. Anything in particular you want checking?
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Guess mostly a general feel as to how fuked Kilnsey is. But specifically Softoption, urgent action, pantomime.
cheers
Tim
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Just heard on facebook from Mike Watson
"Just got back from Kilnsey (Wednesday). Drove there and straight back. North butress is very wet."
[/u][/i]
:'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
These cry smilies don't quite convey my feelings accurately enough.. :(
Tim
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NNOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :wall:
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Ok. As of this evening.
North Buttress. Soaked.
Soft Option wet.
Most stuff left of directisima ok.
Nerve ending/bulge wet.
Grooved arete area wet.
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Claws 'n' stuff?
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Claws 'n' stuff?
:lol:
Was drying a little this eve though. Got two days of dry weather now forecast.
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This may be of interest.
www.kilnseycrisiscounselling.co.uk (http://www.kilnseycrisiscounselling.co.uk)
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All dry again today i have just been told. Strong winds and sun on the crag. ;D
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All dry again today i have just been told. Strong winds and sun on the crag. ;D
you are joking surely? So it was just run off then?
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All dry again today i have just been told. Strong winds and sun on the crag. ;D
you are joking surely? So it was just run off then?
Someone else was, see here (http://twitter.com/BrokenBennett/status/19283926221) and here (http://twitter.com/BrokenBennett/status/19284008882).
:wank: :wank: :wank: :wank:
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All dry again today i have just been told. Strong winds and sun on the crag. ;D
you are joking surely? So it was just run off then?
Someone else was, see here (http://twitter.com/BrokenBennett/status/19283926221) and here (http://twitter.com/BrokenBennett/status/19284008882).
:wank: :wank: :wank: :wank:
Unless Paul's referring to a source other than here or UKC I think he's mistaken.
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Unless Paul's referring to a source other than here or UKC I think he's mistaken.
T'was overheard and relayed to him at The Foundry, so veracity can not be confirmed, but if someone thinks its funny to post false condition reports then they are a :wank: in my eyes.
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Unless Paul's referring to a source other than here or UKC I think he's mistaken.
T'was overheard and relayed to him at The Foundry, so veracity can not be confirmed, but if someone thinks its funny to post false condition reports then they are a :wank: in my eyes.
Confused by Paul's tweeting. Must be news of another channel. I'm sure Adam/Serpico's update was on the money, and my update from reading a facebook posting I'm sure it is accurate.
Cheers
Tim
p.s. so Serpico, are you or Adam going today? was wondering if there is underlying seepage which needs a few hours to dry back each day?
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Confused by Paul's tweeting. Must be news of another channel.
Someone Paul was climbing with at the Foundry overheard a third person saying they had/were posting inaccurate Kilnsey condition reports on UKB.
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p.s. so Serpico, are you or Adam going today? was wondering if there is underlying seepage which needs a few hours to dry back each day?
Not going today, but was there yesterday. Wednesday there was a HUGE amount of rain and a large part of the crag was fooked, most of that was either run off from the top or seepage that had come straight through - both of which were far drier yesterday. The seepage that takes the most time to come through also takes the most time to dry, because the ground has been so dry for so long there isn't much of this around currently... but it's coming.
From what I've seen, and past experience, my prediction for the weekend is that the vast majority of the crag will be dry but there will be some seepage at the bottom of Ecstacy/ top of Nerve Ending, the groove of Soft/Zero Option, bottom of Full Tilt, some of the undercuts on The Thumb, possibly the top of the first groove on Urgent Action.
If this isn't the case it's because I was wrong, not because I set out to deliberately misinform.
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Confused by Paul's tweeting. Must be news of another channel.
Someone Paul was climbing with at the Foundry overheard a third person saying they had/were posting inaccurate Kilnsey condition reports on UKB.
I think Paul's been the victim of Chinese whispers - what was a joke at the crag has turned into internet fact.
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Quite possibly, as he said it was third hand.
It would be a real shame if any of these conditions threads were polluted by people posting false reports though.
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Yorkshire is all wet through - stay in the Peak.
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I think I've been in the office too much this week plain and simple. My blog/twitter mumblings should always be kept seperate from UKB/Reality.
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Forecast for this weekend (23/7)
(http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/England/Kilnsey/meteogram.png)
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stuff i noticed wet today
wise blood
mandela
dreamtime
slight wet patch at top of nerve ending, only tiny, wont affect climbing i guess
classic e2 corner
fulltilt/true north
urgent
maybe bottom of thumb, cant really remember
patch's on WYSIWYG
bottom of dalliance routes
hope it helps.
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Unless Paul's referring to a source other than here or UKC I think he's mistaken.
T'was overheard and relayed to him at The Foundry, so veracity can not be confirmed, but if someone thinks its funny to post false condition reports then they are a :wank: in my eyes.
All my conditions updates are as they are. End of.
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how are things looking sofar? drying out more or seeping more? At weekend everything was mostly dry barring full tilt and urgent action
cheers
Tim
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Going in the morning so will report back.
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Mostly dry today. Full tilt was climbable. Just. Everything else seemed ok on the whole.
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Adam - did you (or anyone) happen to notice if the top pitch of Claws is dry?
It's best viewed from the road, if anyone happens to be going today.
An update for the weekend would be much appreciated.
Neil
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Adam - did you (or anyone) happen to notice if the top pitch of Claws is dry?
It's best viewed from the road, if anyone happens to be going today.
An update for the weekend would be much appreciated.
Neil
Hi Neil, i will ask Jordan to have a look today. Will post back later.
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Thanks Adam
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Thanks Adam
He went to the Peak, so couldn't find out. I would hazard a guess at it being dry at the top of Claws. Lots and lots of rain today though.
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All pretty dry bar Full Tilt. Rained during the day though, and more drips coming through as day went on. :shrug:
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Did anyone go today?
Usual question, if you did...!
Ta
Neil
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Mostly dry. Mandela seeping, Full Till dampish, the rest fine. Didn't look directly at Claws but Central Wall was dry.
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Neil,
Some time spent stalking on the other channel reveals that Claws got an ascent on saturday. Get it whilst it's hot! (or, you know, dry)
Stu
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yes, it seemed quite chalked yesterday.
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Some time spent stalking on the other channel reveals that Claws got an ascent on saturday. Get it whilst it's hot! (or, you know, dry)
Ah, yes. Good detective work, Stu. I'd forgotten about that marvellous recent UKC innovation...!
Mind you, further investigation reveals not only the identification of the person concerned, but also confirmation that the pesky wet streak on P2 which curtailed my own ascent a couple of weeks ago, is still there. And even deploying the strength of ten men - which I don't possess, but the leader in question does - it was not possible to achieve a free passage of the wet bit.
So, thanks for your interest, everybody. Now please just walk out to the road (as I politely requested in an earlier post), lift your binoculars to your eyes (you know, the ones you always carry for gaining crucial beta for your on sight flash, or for checking if the bolts are in place) and then post back when that bloody wet streak has properly retreated back into the mountain from whence it came.
Then, and only then, will I point the motor northwards once again...
;)
Neil
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All dry today, even top pitch of Claws! (Neil)
Easy bit of full tilt is only remaining moist section.
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Everything dry. Warm when the wind dropped.
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Some seepage coming through on N.Butress. Full Tilt, UA and the Thumb wet. Soft Option leaking, as was the Central Wall area. Most other stuff ok
-
arse!
-
Anyone been up in the last day or two? What's wet/dry?
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It was drying back nicely today. Le lapin was dry. North buttress not so.
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Hi,
If anyone gets over to Kilnsey this week I would be most interested in the wetness/dryness of Full Tilt after the last nights downpour.
Many thanks.
Since this is my first post I feel I should take the oppertunity to thank the powers that be on such a wonderful resource :hug:
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Hi,
If anyone gets over to Kilnsey this week I would be most interested in the wetness/dryness of Full Tilt after the last nights downpour.
Many thanks.
Start was wet today, but climbable. Undercut in middle tad damp at start of day but dried towards the end.
-
anyone who's up this week, can you take a peek at the thumb to check dryness? ta T
-
anyone who's up this week, can you take a peek at the thumb to check dryness? ta T
It's seemed fine Toby.
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(http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/England/Kilnsey/meteogram.png)
Continuously updating 48hr forecast.
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totally soaked today!!! Bad condensation was to blame.
-
Anyone been back today, I heard it was still greasy this morning buthas this afternoon's sun sorted it out?
-
any up to date conditions reports from the weekend? I'm off up there or Malham today...
-
Quite a bit of seepage yesterday on the usual suspects. Most of North Buttress (Urgent/Thumb/Full Tilt) wet as well as starts of Ecstacy and The Bulge. Most other stuff ok and seepage drying back as we left but todays rain will not help things.
-
north buttress utterly soaked today (monday) bulge wet. many wet streaks increasing through the day on some others eg biological. generally not looking too pretty. some stuff at the crag still ok, eg near directissima, comedy etc.
-
Has anyone had a look today? I'm most interested in the Yorkshire ripper area...
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Has anyone had a look today? I'm most interested in the Yorkshire ripper area...
Going in a minute Aaron. Will let you know later.
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Good work with the reporting Adam!
How's the north buttress looking? Piss wet through?
Cheers.
-
Ripper wet as we left. Maybe ok for Sunday.
North Butress mainly wet. Thumb ok.
Bulge and Ecstacy wet.
Most other stuff ok.
-
Cheers. Probably Malham tomorrow then.
-
Anyone report back from today. Ripper area. Full Tilt?
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Can't comment on those two but in the vicinity the Thumb was wet and so was Biological. Much stilldry but getting damper
-
Everything wet today bar a couple of things. Cold Steal dry. As is Sticky Wicket/Ashes/50 for 50. That's about it.
-
hows it looking at the moment? Is anything dry or is it ruined for the year?
-
Anybody know how awful things are right now?
-
I heard that it was still very seepy on Sunday. Given the forecast I wouldn't hope for any improvement :'(
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Bum, cheers Andy.
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Hmmm. Got clips to retrieve! Doh.
Unless the phantom clip stealer has struck again.
-
drove by today for a gander after work,
Crag smelt wierd and the rock was very cool. Plenty of birds around and it looked like watercress was growing in the muddy dust!!?
hard dry stuff- things like metal mickey, indian summer(maybe one damp hold), northern exposure , progress and also soft option could be possible, maybe...
easier stuff- man with a gun, sticky wicket, 50-4-5, comedy, pantomine, rubble, those routes right of bulge, maybe frankie.
Hope this helps.
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Has any one been past recently? I was hoping to have a play on Comedy on the way by this weekend. Looks like there's lots of rain forecast before then though. Ta
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Drove past yesterday. Looked fucked. Even most of the routes that Jordan reported as dry a few weeks ago were wet. My guess is you've got two chances for this weekend. Jack and Shit.
And jack's left town.
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Looked fucked... two chances for this weekend. Jack and Shit.
And jack's left town.
and that's putting an optimistic slant on it.
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Anyone have any conditions beta for kilnsey just now, thinking of it as an option for this weekend??
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Usually at this time of year it wll be in the condition that is described 2 posts above.
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Anyone have any conditions beta for kilnsey just now, thinking of it as an option for this weekend??
:lol:
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Anyone have any conditions beta for kilnsey just now, thinking of it as an option for this weekend??
:lol:
Thanks Adam, that's a really useful response.
Cheers Webbo for a more constructive answer! Is Malham any more likely?
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With a forecasted 10C and 100% cloud cover, with wind from the south, I'd hazard a guess that both Malham and Kilnsey are a no-go this weekend. Unless you have the cold loving attributes of a Walrus that is...
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Anyone have any conditions beta for kilnsey just now, thinking of it as an option for this weekend??
:lol:
Thanks Adam, that's a really useful response.
Cheers Webbo for a more constructive answer! Is Malham any more likely?
Ok, sorry. Not a chance with either, as Andy has now pointed out.
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:lol: :lol: :lol:
that one each for the big 3 in yorkshire this weekend, you cant see any of them through the mist.
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;D
even I wasn't remotely considering Malham .... let alone Kilnsey! Frankly, it looks a bit cold for the leeds wall to be honest.
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Face value, Directisima, Comedy, 50 for 5, Sticky wicket, Pantomine, Slab Cutlure all dry.
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Did you happen to see how Massala/Zero Option/Ripper etc area was looking? And the far end Brief Encounter-ish along with the obvious around GA? Cheers
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Did you happen to see how Massala/Zero Option/Ripper etc area was looking? And the far end Brief Encounter-ish along with the obvious around GA? Cheers
Info was second hand, sorry.
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If anyone happens to go along before sunday, could they see if nerve ending is dry?
cheers
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If anyone happens to go along before sunday, could they see if nerve ending is dry?
cheers
It takes quite a bit of seepage so doubt it will be fully dry at the top.
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Yeah, that top crack is a bit on the damp side, still if someone sees it in the flesh....
cheers
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Almost all dry on Saturday apparently. Which is good :thumbsup:
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What's the state of the crag looking like? All dry? north buttress?
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50% dry, Nrth Buttress soaked.
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50% dry, Nrth Buttress soaked.
duh! hoping it was drier. What about Drenka /bulge / grooved arete/ lapin? dry enough to work?
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Bulge - soaked, the others are dry enough to work.
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What about the majority of Ecstacy after the lower break? Would it be worth a working session on the upper part or is it really wet?
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Forecast is good for the weekend, and it's been dry for the last couple of days, so it might be workable, but it was soaked yesterday, and if I had to guess I'd say no.
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Did you happen to glance at the Yorkshire Ripper/Soft Option/Massala/Smarter/Martyr area Serps?
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And what about Indian Summer?
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Did you happen to glance at the Yorkshire Ripper/Soft Option/Massala/Smarter/Martyr area Serps?
All soaked.
And what about Indian Summer?
Dry up to the trav left, this had more chance of being OK for the weekend I think.
Other stuff that was dry:
Comedy/Pantomime
Man with a gun
Frankie
Sticky Wicket
The Ashes
Truth Drug/Ground Effect
Open Road
China Crisis
The Jekyll/Mr Nice
Little Ernie
Myra
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Cheers for the info Serps. Sounds like there is enough to go at at and more should have dried back after today. Might check it out tomorrow.
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Much drier today. But not completly!
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Update anyone?
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nearly all is dry, the odd pocket wet but thats all folks. :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:
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It was indeed in fine fettle, but very empty :o . A couple more dry days and everything will be just about perfect :dance1:
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Full Tilt?
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Didn't look closely, but should be workable. May have been damp at the bottom. Possibly.
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Full Tilt?
Some clips in it, but the main pocket thingie where you do that heel toe was a bit gopping. for a comparison no streaks on the north buttres but all pockets on urgent action looked wet... not soaked however but damp. As a comparative example grooved arete seemed all dry, looking at softoption (someones clips were in it) it looked dry as well. So quite positive really. Also the bulge looked dry apart from the groove at the top of the bulgette. but i didnt get on it so cannot comment more than a visual inspection.
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Full Tilt?
looking at softoption (someones clips were in it) it looked dry as well.
Those are mine from last year. As are the ones in The Ripper. Glad they are still there.
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Those are mine from last year. As are the ones in The Ripper. Glad they are still there.
Can you all purlease take your clips home with you in future, they really shouldn't be left there.
:devangel:
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Those are mine from last year. As are the ones in The Ripper. Glad they are still there.
Can you all purlease take your clips home with you in future, they really shouldn't be left there.
:devangel:
Indeed, don't want to get them nicked like a few people did last year.
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Last year I found a rope at Kilnsey (which I managed to return), some liquid chalk at Cheedale (which I returned), and some very old and in my view 'unsafe' draws on Indian summer at Kilnsey (which I returned, when the owner returned from his holidays: Apparently old and worn draws seat better on the bolts.)
:-\ Please don't call me a thief again Adam.
I'd never use a rope that had been left in-situ on a route as its history is unknown, so why should your draws be any different? I know and trust my gear.
I know they'll be two camps here, but there are some very good reasons not to encourage draws to be left in-situ.
Aside from convenience what are the arguments for?
Steve Crowe did jellybeans yesterday btw - must be drying back nicely.
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Just out of interest Adam, will you use those clips now as they are, or change the sling, or just chuck them? Been a mighty cold and wet winter to be leaving fabric outside!
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The Bulge had some wet bits but not enough to stop me!
Wise Blood, DejaVu are both dry and spring cleaned!
Indeed most of Kilnsey was looking very dry as we left on monday evening.
...Watch out for the long queues.
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Please don't call me a thief again Adam.
Eh? What you on about Andy? Where did i call you a thief? :shrug: Am i missing something?
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Phew! Calm down geezers ....
the crag is absolutlely bone dry; you won't find much dampness anywhere. Get out there with yer nice soft brushes and get it brushed off and get sending! (it'll be gopping wet again in a few weeks, probably) T x
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Even the north buttress is bone :great:
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I can confirm the dryness. And the amazing mintyness :great:
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How is Kilnsey surviving the rain? Was planning going either there or malham tomorrow. Can anyone fill me in on what lines are seeping etc?
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Was excellent yesterday. All dry from what I could see, although I didn't venture any further down the crag than the Bulge area.
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Anybody know if Urgent Action is still dry? :please:
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Everything is still bone dry, Gareth was on Urgent yesterday evening. There was some heavy showers during the afternoon but I think it will take a significantly more sustained period of rain to have any impact on crag conditions.
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Can I just point out that the condition of some of the parking on Sunday was truly appauling. Are people so selfish that they think saving themselves a five minute walk is more important than continued access to one of the best (the best?) sports crag in the UK.
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Can I just point out that the condition of some of the parking on Sunday was truly appauling. Are people so selfish that they think saving themselves a five minute walk is more important than continued access to one of the best (the best?) sports crag in the UK.
Have to agree, the small layby on the opposite side of the road from the crag, someone had managed to squeeze 5% of their car into the end of the layby with the remaining 95% sticking out into the road.
Cheers
Tim
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I put a notice up last year from the BMC asking people politely to consider their parking behaviour, it's still very much legible so I don't know what more can be done to encourage selflessness?
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Does anyone know how conditions are currently?
Has this wet weather meant that parts have started to seep?......looking particulary around the slabculture area.
Cheers
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Sorry can't help with the conditions report but have to agree with the comments re: parking on Sunday. If you're fit and well enough to climb at Kilnsey I can't imagine the five minute walk from the large lay-by would present much of a challenge. It is simply selfish and inconsiderate and unfortunately reflects very poorly on all of us.
Weren't the police ticketing cars last year?
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Agree about the parking situation. It was pretty bad on Sunday, personally I would rather walk a bit than jeopardise access to the crag. Can't really understand people parking at the little pull in underneath the crag.
On another note I am hoping Kilnsey is holding out from the wetness...
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Any updates on the Kilnsey seepage given this weeks rain? :please:
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pretty dry. only things i noticed wet were urgent action and true north
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Wet holds also on WYSIWIG (though probably climbable), start of Full Tilt wet. Nearly everything else okay.
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Most stuff still dry but seepage starting to appear on North buttress - although didn't stop Rob Sutton (sp) from crushing True North. :clap2:
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if anyones been recently or goes today, could you be a chum and report back on how true north is looking. i'd expect it to be wet up to the first bolt, but if its really wet after that then it's too wet for me
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if anyones been recently or goes today, could you be a chum and report back on how true north is looking. i'd expect it to be wet up to the first bolt, but if its really wet after that then it's too wet for me
Ditto for Urgent Action. :please:
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up tonight,
was raining into the crag in bursts, but actually didn't make a great deal of difference all in all.
apparently - from someone who was up on tuesday too - urgent action is more seepy that it was.
more dark patches on north buttress, but if I'm not mistaken a couple of guys were on full tilt I think, and climbing between the wet bits ok.
most things are still dry, biological need is suffering, grooved arete fine, The bulge looked ok, Eddie was on it. Ecstacy - sorry Andy - I don't know the crucial bits to advise, but nerve ending was dry if that's any clue.
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North Buttress not good today, GA area ok, as was the stuff on the left including China Crisis area. Ecstacy dry at the start, but go better during the day. The Ripper/Biological wet at the start but fine after. May improve tomorrow as the wind dried things out.
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yesterday North Buttress totally unclimbable :(, a lot of seepage starting to come through, however 7am tuesday morning, awesome sun and a light wind, perfect drying conditions ;D
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The crag was much improved today, N.Buttress still mostly unclimable but drying back rapidly. Most other stuff fine apart from the Bulge/Ecstacy and Dalliance areas.
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cheers Andy... you think rapidly enough to make UA redpointable by tomorrow?
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Possibly, but the weekend looks more likely.
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going there now, i'll report back later....
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Possibly, but the weekend looks more likely.
not possibly. There was probably not a dry hold on full tilt, UA is very, very wet too, I can't see N butt being in decent nick for a week looking at it today. WSIWYG pretty wet. Most other bits of the crag looked ok, (although i'll confess i didn't really look at the bulge, or biological, which often have damp bits) Seepage seemed to increase in the day if anything.
Sorry that doesn't sound very optimistic!
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Don't suppose you had a look at the Ripper? Bad news about seepage increasing during the day, didn't think that there had been that much rain. Still, 2 days to get dry before my next visit...
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Don't suppose you had a look at the Ripper? Bad news about seepage increasing during the day, didn't think that there had been that much rain. Still, 2 days to get dry before my next visit...
looks like i was pretty flippin wrong in my last report, so perhaps my opinion isn't worth counting! no, i didn't - but i assume your tweak at Dinbren means you aren't so bothered now.... ?
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Don't suppose you had a look at the Ripper? Bad news about seepage increasing during the day, didn't think that there had been that much rain. Still, 2 days to get dry before my next visit...
looks like i was pretty flippin wrong in my last report, so perhaps my opinion isn't worth counting! no, i didn't - but i assume your tweak at Dinbren means you aren't so bothered now.... ?
Kilnsey can change pretty quickly at this time of year. The tweak isn't as bad as I thought, enough to slow me down for the next week or so though :(
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anyone noticed the state of true north? wetness up to first bolt is expectable but dont want it too wet after that. cheers
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Was there yesterday but didn't look as far as North Buttress sorry.
Bulge/Ecstasy was starting to get damp and seep again
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TN and UA damp in bits, but not disastrously so. TN got an ascent today: so it can't have been that bad. :-\
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Everything pretty much dry yesterday including North Buttress - Urgent Action totally dry.
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Can anyone tell me if the Mandela roof is dry at the mo?
thx :)
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I'd be interested to know what state Fult Tilt is in too if anyone knows?
Many thanks for any info.
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both dry yesterday. no drips coming down from mandela anyway, don't know if that means it was dry?
how is that malham is soaking and kilnsey is dry?
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Mandela looks to be dry but I haven't been up there this year. It might need a good scrub as don't think anyone has been up there this year. I keen to get it finished off so will go up there and have a look after i've finished Ecstasy!
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I'd be interested to know what state Fult Tilt is in too if anyone knows?
Many thanks for any info.
Full Tilt wet at the bottom, damp in the break/undercuts by the 3rd bolt and wet on the block you stand on for the knee bar. In spite of that all the moves were do-able if you've got the gas to dry your hands in between.
The rest of the crag looked OK, but it was crap conditions and midgey as fook.
Pissed down as we left.
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How much rain today? The forecast for a heatwave in manchester was utter bollox. a fair amount of rain last night and up till about 12 today. Apparently cornice is gopping :(
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rained quite a bit in Dales today. reports of high humidity and quite a bit of seepage of kilnsey; i was at the other place .... which was probably worse, though probably temporarily. :please:
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Not good yesterday, North Buttress wet, Bulge/Ecstasy was seeping and had condensation from humidity. Rest was mostly okay.
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Virtually everything left of (and most of North buttress) dry but greasy. Yew Cogar on the other hand was as black as my heart.
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Virtually everything left of (and most of North buttress) dry but greasy. Yew Cogar on the other hand was as black as my heart.
Black as the ace of spades then!
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Mostly dry now (just start of Full Tilt wet). However extremely midgy!
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likely to be climbable on friday?
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Anyone been today? It's probably optimistic, but is UA looking dry?
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not hopeful. Damp and getting damper on thursday. UA, that is.
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hows grooved arete area?
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Bone
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Can anyone reveal what state was North Buttress in by end of Sunday?
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Bottom of Full Tilt/true North a bit wet today. Urgent Action dry apart from little bit of seepage by third bolt when you move left (pock was wet).
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Hi,
If anyone's been up in that last few days i'd be interested to know if Full tilt is fully dry yet?
Cheers.
:please:
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Little wet by bolt 2 still; but essentially all dry.
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Full Tilt nicely dry by the end of today, although the flat holds by the first clip where soaked on arrival as someone had (presumably by mistake) left a rag on them, which was collecting all of the seepage that usually runs past!
The route is currently minus a foothold though :guilty:: The small but positive dink which is on the right once you've got to the break by the 3rd clip. It's kind of a minor issue and certainly does not alter the grade; however unless someone does it first (or the piece goes missing) I intend on putting it back on, as it makes the 3rd clip a little safer especially when the break is damp.
CC
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17th conditions update
most of the crag is holding out well in the face of the frankly shite weather, although conditions best described as smeggy.
Wet things:
dreamtime (just at the top)
sounded like Indian summer had a slightly seepy hold on it (?)
full tilt / true north, sopping at bottom, visible patches higher up as well.
urgent action - rests wet, and several wet holds (although this didn't stop barry doing it anyway!) i'd be surprised if it was still even vaugely ok today however.
thumb several visible wet undercuts in the mid section, but possibly still sendable if you man up a bit.
otherwise all ok at the moment....
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Report current as of late afternoon Tues 19th July.
O dear, its all gone a bit soggy.
Wet:
WSIWYG as far as dominatrix soaked
soft / zero option (but workable)
biological, ripper - wet patches lower especially.
dreamtime
top of deja vu etc.
mr nice / jekyll / china crisis and general area all fine.
left side ok.
grooved arete etc all fine.
lots of wetness; but it doesn't have a really 'set in' look about it - some sunny mornings, and and easterly wind would probs sort it out in a few days..... but according to the met office its going to piss it down til mid august. :shit:
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any more current updates? drying back?
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From the met office 23rd July
"Detailed mountain weather forecast: Yorkshire Dales
Sunday
Weather
Cool at first, perhaps with a few early fog patches, then dry, warm and sunny with generally excellent visibility. Risk of dehydration on any arduous ascents, also sunburn/sunstroke."
;D drink up before any attempts at True North then y'hear.
North Buttress is centre still wet, though Dominatrix, TBM and WSIWG are dry, most other things ok.
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all dry yesterday; apart from Bulge (nearly dry) TN, UA, Thumb (not too far off either).
They weren't wrong about the dehydration though.
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even drier today ... as you might expect given that it hasn't rained much.
Thumb pretty much dry apart from deep in a few undercuts.
UA still visibly damp in several places.
TN pissing water still at the start and 1 or 2 patches higher up, but drying rapidly.
Soft Option pretty much dry (and sent by Dal)
Bulge nearly there...
Ecstasy ... still seeping a lot at the start of the business bit
WSIWYG a bit damp in places but easily climbable
Hope that helps
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Ey up.
I would imagine from the silence that the big K is bone dry at the moment?
To follow up from my hold breakage note: Ive been nowhere near the crag since so havent done anything about it. Would imagine that its done a dissapearing act by now but will have a look if I ever get back up there.
Cheers.
CC
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Think almost everything was dry on weekend, except full tilt.
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everything was dry on sunday
monday most things were wet!!!!!! :spank:
today i rested and have no idea
conditions seem strage at the moment
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conditions report on urgent action massively appreciated :please: I'd really like to pull on some dry holds!
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Think almost everything was dry on weekend, except full tilt....
....and the top pitch of Claws.
Neil
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conditions report on urgent action massively appreciated :please: I'd really like to pull on some dry holds!
Looked dry to me from the ground this evening (bearing in mind I don't know the route or the critical holds etc), although was pretty humid at the crag so conditions didn't feel great.
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Did anyone who went to Kilnsey today, happen to spot if the top pitch of Claws is seeping again...?
Thanks
Neil
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Sorry, didn't look up at Claws, but the whole Central Wall area looked quite dry, despite several downpours. Some breaks and pockets seeping/damp (Bulge, Full Tilt) and probably only be worse tomorrow, but much of crag dry.
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The top of Claws might have had some run off, if it's dry tomorrow morning I would guess it would be ok, unless the chipped holds have puddles in them!!
Most of the crag was fine today.
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Sposed to be having a day there this weekend, peps?
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Was ok last night on the left half, with seepage on North Butros Butros. Getting wetter as we left.
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hmmm could be malham then, british summer eh!
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Was ok last night on the left half, with seepage on North Butros Butros. Getting wetter as we left.
How about the stuff right of North Buttress - Subculture, Myra and round there?
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I didn't personally go and look but Jordan went to look at Dalliance quite early in the afternoon and came back with reports of wetness, then it continued to rain and the crag got noticeably wetter so I think it is quite possibly wet. But this is not an eyewitness report (I went no further than Zero Option area), maybe someone who was "at the scene" can provide more accurate information?
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Was there today, the beck is running very high so wet feet are mandatory to get to the crag. 50 for 5 was dry at lunch time apart from some sogginess right at the start. Neighbouring routes to the left also looked dry. Comedy was mostly dry apart from final moves to the lower-off, however by the end of the day the seepage really came through and the holds to the second bolt were all dripping wet.
You'll have to excuse my lack of route knowledge because it was my first visit but there were two other parties there and at a guess they seemed to be on either Sideshow or Metal Guru and something around the area of Sabbath's Theater / China Crisis. Those lines both looked dry. Most stuff on the Directissima area (apart from Directissima itself of course!) seemed to be more or less dry (stuff that goes into the very upper reaches excluded) and most of the rest of the crag was gopping.
Usual disclaimer applies, it's currently absolutely pissing it down up here yet again and the seepage seemed to be getting exponentially worse towards the end of the day so it may well be a complete horror-show by tomorrow morning.
Hope this helps!
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echo Alistair B above, we got there about 6pm, it was gopping, torrential, blowing in in places. one party on No More Jumping - but they can't have been aiming for the headwall. for the beck make sure you're in shorts, it was deep! Sticky wicket etc ok, but very little else.
still raining heavily when we abandoned ship.
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Did anyone look at North Buttress today?
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As Chapel Head is looking very very unlikely for tomorrow I'd be greatly appreciative of a conditions report from Kilnsey should any of the great and good venture there today.
Rght back to work...
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anything dry today?
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Anyone been today? Heading down for a couple of days (mon/tues) and wanting to look at things like fifty for five, comedy..... How bad is the seepage?
Cheers, Liam
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They were both dry. Didn't check past north B. but it was wet. The dry routes I remember were R=L Frankie, Direct Flight, Pantomime, Comedy, 50F5, stickety wickety, man wi' gun, metal guru, metal mickey and the 7a gems. Stuff was starting to dry out through the day too. More climbable tomorrow I reckon.
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looks like dominatrix got climbed on too, though it was dripping up to the first bolt.
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Dominatrix was suprisingly do-able today, most of the holds that matter in the bottom section you could use, up to the first roof was a bit slippy, and the jug over the roof was disappointly slimy, the top half was fine.
I'd say by the end of the day things were looking a lot better there, and further along north butress the patches were shrinking quickly.
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They were both dry. Didn't check past north B. but it was wet. The dry routes I remember were R=L Frankie, Direct Flight, Pantomime, Comedy, 50F5, stickety wickety, man wi' gun, metal guru, metal mickey and the 7a gems. Stuff was starting to dry out through the day too. More climbable tomorrow I reckon.
Nice one on the detailed report Rob; did you notice if Stolen was ok as well? (ie cold steal extension)
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wasn't, but 75/25 sure it will be today.
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Anyone been to Kilnsey this week?
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DWS was looking good on Tues & it may have rained since.
LH side was ok (Bullet & Stolen), Sticky Wicket, 5045, Comedy, Pantomime, Ground Effect etc ok. Not great otherwise. N Buttress not good. Grooved Arete pretty wet on the starting holds & the pocket a bit damp.
but hey.... see you all there tomorrow anyway...
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crag drying quickly, but a lot of routes have damp pockets on them, even high up the crag!!!!
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crag drying quickly, but a lot of routes have damp pockets on them, even high up the crag!!!!
are you referring to urgent action here?
PS i'll be keen this wednesday; if anyone else is interested?
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Urgent and Full Tilt had plenty dampness on the bottom 3/4 bolts on Saturday.
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Anybody been to Kilnsey this week? Particularly interested in conditions on The Thumb.....
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Still some wet undercuts on the Thumb. Crag not too bad but many pockets had grease at back of them.
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Thanks Geoff,
I decided not to risk it and headed to Malham instead.
Cheers for the update.
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crag still in a strange state, starting to look dry but a lot of pockets are wet!!!!!!!!!!!, makes redpointing difficult. This seems to be mostly on the right hand section from quiet flight, left seems dry.........( but only done open road)
North buttress still wet.
Raining today :(
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If anyone goes today could you be kind enough to check to see if daliance is dry? That would be mega, cheers. :)
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I went Saturday and the crag generally was pretty wet - including the right hand end. Didn't look at that route specifically though.
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Cheers, I heard today of someone there that the route was wet. THX.
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General update, seepage generally bad and worsening. Left and right ends of directissima buttress still dryish, wet holds on upper extensions and of course directissima itself. Stuff like Sticky Wicket and 50 for 5 still hanging on. Comedy has a few wet holds in the first 3 clips but still just about climbable. North buttress is absolutely soaked through. Bulge + Ecstacy very wet. Possibly some dry stuff around Biological Need. Central Wall very wet. Again possibly some stuff dry around Grooved Arete (no huge seepage streaks yet but individual holds may be wet).
The Beck is above the stepping stones so wellies / a towel are handy. There's been more heavy rain tonight :(.
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Pretty grim today, actual weather amicable enough (basically no rain, nice temps) but major seepage with wet holds on almost everything. Ground Effect and Truth Drug were bone dry, as was I think Alternative Optional Extra or whatever it's called. Sticky Wicket possibly dry but didn't try it. 50 for 5 wet. Comedy very wet in some very unhelpful places! North Buttress, Bulge etc. all covered in huge wet streaks.
That said, forecast looks a little more forgiving for the next few days so maybe all isn't lost yet. I hope not!
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I'm thinking this is probably a bit optimistic but... I've got a small window of opportunity popping up later this week so want to head for a dryish crag, any recent knowledge on Kilnsey conditions gratefully received.
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Plenty of small damp seepage bits, but also plenty of dry rock. Kilnsey isn;t gone for the year yet...
A selection of info:
Metal Mickey - dry but missing a hold
Indian Summer - seepy bit high up
Comedy - wet undercuts at start
Thing Right of Comedy - dry
Tragedy - climbable but wet pocket at start
Biological - wet
Ripper/Zero/Soft/Massala - all wet at start
North Buttress - some seepy streak but a lot dryer than I expected
Grooved Arete - several seepy bits
Daliance - wet start
Can't remember anything else, oh wait someone was on the 7c(?) left of 50 for 5 so I guess that's dry,and 50 for 5 seemed dry I think??
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Can't remember anything else, oh wait someone was on the 7c(?) left of 50 for 5 so I guess that's dry,and 50 for 5 seemed dry I think??
Thanks for the update but if by the 'the 7c(?) left of 50 for 5', you mean the Ashes, 7c+, one of the best routes of it's grade in the country you should really look to increase your Kilnsey knowledge (and get it ticked!).
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Fair comment, duly noted. Once I've worked my way through the current batch of routes that need finishing off I'll get on the case...
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popped in today after work. seemed in pretty good nick. few seepy bits tho it has rained a lot today so this may change but is meant to be tres sunny tomorrow morning....
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Can't remember anything else, oh wait someone was on the 7c(?) left of 50 for 5 so I guess that's dry,and 50 for 5 seemed dry I think??
:spank:
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Not a single dry hold yesterday. Some seepage, some run-off and epic condensation/clag. Was very unpleasant.
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OK I know this is probably a ridiculous question but I'm hoping fortune favours the hopelessly optimistic...
Does anyone know how Kilnsey is looking?
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OK I know this is probably a ridiculous question but I'm hoping fortune favours the hopelessly optimistic...
Does anyone know how Kilnsey is looking?
:o
I don't know though, I have climbed there in March before, and though there weren't many dry routes, the crag wasn't exactly busy! If you are interested in Metal Mickey, I'd say there was a chance... wrap up warm though eh ;)
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It was minging last weekend when we drove past although with some dry patches suggesting that the wetness may not be sustained in the medium term. Someone was climbing the shit warm ups on the far left. With a big rucksack on too :shrug:
I wouln't bother for a week or two.
BTW: the Falcon in Litton has new owners. The pie and peas are highly recommended along wit beer
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Cheers for the info gents, I suspect Metal Mickey is probably one of the driest bits of the crag. However I also suspect that the whole crag would have been condensed out today so didn't bother.
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anyone been for a look yet? reckon it'll be ok for the weekend or better at malham?!
cheers,
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I drive past most days, looked streaky from the road today but a lot drier than the previous couple of weeks. Obivously the LH end is a lot drier than the right. I think Malham would be a better bet!
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If anyone is keen for Kilnsey over the next few weeks give me a shout. The sooner I get back on Indian Summer the better as it's going to be a seige!
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Kilnsey was quite wet when we looked last weekend, not a single dry line on saturday. The crag looked about 50% dry but we could not see any dry routes!
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Drove past just now, looking wet!
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cheers for the info, malham it is :D
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Proper wet yesterday, no routes possible :furious:
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Given the dry weather this week, what are the odds of anything being dry by the weekend?
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Drove past today, looking the driest I have seen it all year, pretty good I would say (from a boulderers point of view). Schwing!!!
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:dance1:
We're back in business. Pretty much everything workable, many things totally dry. Deep pockets, cracks and breaks possibly greasy. Great to be there this early in the year and with no one around
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Including north buttress???
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Urgent Action looked pretty wet. The Thumb looked ok but I guess the undercuts would be damp. The first niche of Full Tilt was wet, the second had wet bits then it looked dry to the top. The rest of NB looked in pretty good nick. No one was on these routes so can't be sure
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Bone today, apparently.
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ukc logbooks agree, comedy and biological done of late.
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Pockety stuff was wet on Wednesday but dried back significantly through the day so can well imagine full dryness come the weekend.
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I'm sure everybody has ruled Kilnsey out for the next few weeks but just to let you know there were LOTS of wet streaks everywhere as I drove past today. I didn't stop and go and look around or anything as I was just passing so there might be something dry...
...but it didn't really look like it.
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:(
lots of wet bits all over the crag, not good.
However with a few hot and sunny weeks we will be OK :(
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Has anyone been Sunday / Monday, and care to let the world know if the crag is dry. Specifically, is North Buttress dry? And if so... 'dry' as in still with a few dribbly bits, or crispy proper dry?
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Was pretty good on Monday. Didn't head down to North Buttress I'm afraid! But, i'd say it was dry with some dribbly bits, not many tho. Should be pretty bone by tomorrow and onwards... Will be back there on Friday if you want North Buttress info but i'm sure other people will be down in the meantime as it really was pretty good!
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Will WYSIWYG be dry tomorow (friday) after this rain...?
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I'm afraid I can't help you, but if you chance it, could you please provide an update - I'm hoping to get on Wysiwig or Sticky Wicket myself this weekend (in fact was hoping for Friday but am partnerless).
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can let you know if we go up in an odd number there if you want. plans are still unmade. Based in leeds so might be able to give lift from here but dont know, dont know where you are based. Will check out the routes for you if you arent there
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I am based in Ilkley - around 35 minutes from the crag - and have a car - so transport is not a problem. Please let me know if anyone fancies a trip on Friday and needs a partner - I have the day booked and hate the thought of it going to waste.
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Guess you'll have to 'see what you get' :P
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btw - the sun is now out in Ilkley and there's a decent breeze (the pavements are already dry) - I suspect you might be in luck.
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PM'd you moose
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We'll be in a 3 at Kilnsey from 11.30 onwards tomorrow Moose so you are welcome to join.
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Cheers - I'll see you there. I'll be the fella who looks like Peter Crouch crossed with a broken angle-poise lamp! For a horrible moment I was contemplating going into work, despite having the day off.....
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was pretty dry yesterday despite the rain over the weekend although starting to drip, we only climbed on the right hand side but there were ropes on ecstasy and urgent action so they are presumably dry.
On a different note someone had taken a particularly watery shit on the path below the crag, they had not attempted to clear it up or remove their toilet paper, i am pretty sure it was a group of non-climbers I saw who were gormlessly wondering around when the crag had quietened down in the evening. I am not sure what the function of this little rant is other than to express my irritation to no one in particular.
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Anyone know who cut the big tree down just to the right of Massala Martyr? I assume they asked the farmer first?
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Not pointing any fingers but i think that might have been the stallion, The shit that is, i dont know who cut the tree down.
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On a different note someone had taken a particularly watery shit on the path below the crag, they had not attempted to clear it up or remove their toilet paper,
def wasn't me, mine are always firm and shapely. :shit:
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Not pointing any fingers but i think that might have been the stallion, The shit that is, i dont know who cut the tree down.
You calling me a watery shit?
Not guilty in this instance. Of sloppiness and or fell-age.
Remember -
(http://static.someecards.com/someecards/usercards/1336959321159_174709.png)
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Not pointing any fingers but i think that might have been the stallion, The shit that is, i dont know who cut the tree down.
:lol:
it was fear at the prospect of the epic walk out
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quite a bit of drizzle blowing into much of the crag today, and some increased seepage on North Buttress: many larger holds full of a nice damp slick of saturated chalk. Lovely. :shit:
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If anyone goes today please could they report back?
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Has anyone been up today? Is anything dry? Thanks!
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North Buttress was fairly wet. Urgent Action seeping badly, Full Tilt wet at bottom. Rest of crag seemed okay. Rained a bit whilst we were there so could come through a bit more tomorrow but overall should be climbable.
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Thanks for the update. Sounds like it's worth a visit.
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basically all dry, bar the Thumb (start and probably any deeper undercuts), UA (anything pockety or juggy) and Full Tilt (bottom bit plus hold most clip bolt 3 from); Soft Option (couple of pockets on lower section).
WYSIWYG sporting a few damp bits but nothing that would put most people off. Other than that, it's all good.
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Full of cunts tho.
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Full of ... tho.
that wasn't really necessary was it?
Wash your mouth out with soap & water, then go and towel dry North Buttress, as penance.
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Wash north buttress with soap and water? I'm on it.
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It was alternating sunshine and torrential downpours all day at Kilnsey. Very little wind so no wetness being swept onto the rock. When I left no-one was climbing any further right than Frankie, so I am afraid I can't comment on North Buttress seepage (the folks on Stolen, Comedy etc seemed content enough, but are routes ever wet?).
If anyone is off to Kilnsey or Malham on Saturday and needs a partner / doesn't mind an orphan tagging along, please get in touch (PM me) - I am keen to get out but partnerless.
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Any updates from today? Particularly interested in The Ashes.
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All stuff under the Directissima roof dry, mixed elswhere, north buttress soaked, stuff further right dry I think.
Very midgey and busy.
Unfortunately I left two clips high on the Ashes, if you are on the route this week please can you either leve them there (preferable) or at the bottom of the route, I didn't leave them through lazyness but stupidity!
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Directissima itself wet tho! Pretty minging all round, lots of wetness, lots of midges, too many people...
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north buttress soaked, stuff further right dry I think.
Very midgey and busy.
Some stuff to the right was dry, subculture, myra hindley and grooved arete were dry, everything else was wet.
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All stuff under the Directissima roof dry, mixed elswhere, north buttress soaked, stuff further right dry I think.
Very midgey and busy.
indian summer, deja vu, dreamtime and the directissima were all wet!
North Butt dried a fair bit in the day in fact, (from serious waterfall, to mild waterfall - still nowhere near climbable)
the bulge was wet.
most other stuff dry or mostly dry. a lot of the wetness was possibly run off and would have thought thing would be better unless there are any more mega rainstorms like saturday this week.
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much better today directissima and all surrounding areas dry, surprised after how wet it was yesterday. some seepage on the bulge but receding. north buttress drying back with wet pockets in all the usual places, wsywig seeping from pocket but otherwise dry and routes to the right of this appeared dry. the beck is now just crossable without getting wet feet. result
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Directissima itself wet tho! Pretty minging all round, lots of wetness, lots of midges, too many people...
...if you're not part of the solution...
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Kilnsey today had rather more seepage but rather less run-off. Midges horrendous. Monsoon forecast :(
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Much better nick yesterday evening; beck back down to normal levels and potential apocalypse avoided?
Majority of lefthand side under the Mandela roof dry.
Ashes - all dry (& ticked ;D)
JM - Minor seepage on Indian Summer.
Comedy - all dry
Matt - one wet hold on Bulge by first roof. Dryable and top bulge fine.
Didn't venture down to North Buttress, but sounded as if there was sufficient seepage to keep would be True North aspirants at bay.
As an aside - does anyone know who bolted the blank(ish) blunt arete left of Sticky Wicket/Indian Summer? Looks desperate.
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potential apocalypse avoided?
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/warnings/?regionName=YH (http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/warnings/?regionName=YH)
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Any update from today or thursday would be much appreciated, specifically WSIWG / the LH end of the Directissima area
Tar. T
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Just back from the special K..... wet.
Everything dry to start with but it worsened considerably through the day. Folk on The Ashes, Hardy Annual etc had no complaints but I was on Metal Guru at around 5pm and the upper parts were gopping (made the slightly chossy finish... memorable). The routes immediately right (Man With a Gun, Cold Steal etc) seemed to be holding out though. Didn't visit North Buttress.
Even if your chosen route stays dry, getting to it might be a problem tomorrow. When I arrived the stream was at its normal level, when I left it was spilling onto the road. It came over the top of my wellies (and I had felt so smug remembering them!) and the force of it made the crossing a bit nervous (thank God for that tree). If it continues in that vein overnight, belayers will need a canoe... and the rain was showing no sign of stopping. The roads there were also starting to flood too. One of those sessions where I was doubting my sanity in staying out ("what normal man in his thirties....").
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Just had a text saying not a single route dry today.
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If anyone has a look today i'd be grateful for any info
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If anyone has a look today i'd be grateful for any info
I am generally quite optimistic, especially where climbing condtions are concerned.
Kilnsey is bad, really, really bad. Even the things that look dry have wet holds (sticky wicket, comedy, directissima) things that you'd think would be dry are pretty wet (50 for 5, tragedy, everything over on the right including subculture) and everything else is a river. Face Value didn't have any wet holds, but you have to climb a pretty soggy directissima to do it unless you fancy the lead.
And on top of all that, it seeped considerably more today, not less.
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:(
thanks toby. the Lord smites us again.
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O yes, I forgot to mention, it was pretty midgey too.
Moving to Sheff on Friday - will be keen for trips up t'dales as soon as anything is in reasonable condition. Otherwise see you at the Tor / Foundry....
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routes you can climb (but not actually dry)
face value
sticky wicket
truth drug
witches drew
routes you can climb (and are dry)
central wall
torrential rain today in settle and a big thunderstorm at the crag.
Is the depot still dry?
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Is the depot still dry?
;D
the 45 at awesome walls was well greasy yesterday.
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Good riddance to the wettest June ever, hello July!
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Good riddance to the wettest June ever, hello July!
indeed, although July is looking very much the same as June from where I'm sitting...
If anyone is foolish err i mean brave enough to go to Kilnsey today, could you post up if cold steal / stolen is dry please? Thanks.
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The crag is drying routes now dry are
Comedy
Pantomine
Truth drug
Sticky wicket
Frankie
witches brew
However the 100% humidity fine Drissle made my hangover worthwhile,
Kilnsey is full cked
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Christ, it says something about this summer when around 3% of the routes being dry feels like progress. Similarly, I was at Malham today and ended up on Bongo Fury... a route I swore never to try again... desperate times!
By way of commemoration of the recent, record breaking rainfall, a neologism:
seepshagged - adj. descriptive of an entire crag rendered unclimbable by seeping moisture;
usage: "I drove by Kilnsey today, didn't stop, it was proper seepshagged"
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pointless
you will find me thursday night at the depot
same routes look dry, however all pockets are wet/damp on them.
I cannot believe this summe :chair:
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Was in the area so drove past last night. Not as bad as I'd expected, but still wet patches on just about everything. Truth Drug, Sideshow/kick and maybe Metal Guru looked driest, but difficult to see what state pockets were in. Maybe a couple of other things climbable, Comedy, Sticky Wicket, Face Value. Just as I left it started to tip down again, so not getting any better.
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This was just posted on faceache "Kilnsey is mostly bone dry and in fairly good nick.. some wet patches on the north buttress around full tilt and urgent action but the rest of the crag dry". Not sure if the person who wrote it is on acid, or entirely trustworthy, or both :-\ :blink:
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At Malham today I met someone who was at Kilnsey yesterday. They said Kilnsey was surprisingly dry and less seepy than Malham (they'd been working Subculture if that gives any clues to the state of North Buttress).
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I thought everyone at the crag agreed to keep shtum about the dryness! Oh well, I'm away for a week anyway. Most things dry, deep pockets smeggy, Urgent Action, Full Tilt and the Thumb wet.
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I thought everyone at the crag agreed to keep shtum about the dryness!
Bunch of cunts
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Kilnsey has some dry routes :clap2: :clap2: I'll try not to tell anyone else :spank:
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Some dry routes, some wet holds and some wet routes today (and horribly hot/humid throughout). However things did dry as the day went on.
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No change since Saturday. Lots of wet bits and some parts getting wetter!http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/wall.gif
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Has anyone been (specifically in the evening)? I'll be passing through tomorrow after 5 and wondered if it was worth nipping in or will I be eaten whole by the midge?
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Midge free on Tuesday evening even though it was quite still, I think it was too cold for them.
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I was there till well after dark on tues evening and it was fine, the easterly wind kept them in bed.
Wind tommorrow will be up from the south all day so the crag should be getting a good breeze, at least on the south end.
Enjoy
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Thanks, I'm just being wary as a rest today, followed by a failed day then a family weekend isn't ideal. I guess we'll chance it.
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Malham I hope will be getting more of the wind than Kilnsey tomorrow and when i ve been I ve found it pretty good nick in the shade there at the moment.....
Something to think about :-\
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Most stuff from Biological leftwards dry, stuff rightwards inc N.Butress has wet bits where it mattered.
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Most stuff from Biological leftwards dry, stuff rightwards inc N.Butress has wet bits where it mattered.
Lapin?
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Didn't look specifically at Lapin but I think that was probably dry. Most stuff right of N.Buttress was pretty dry.
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Didn't look specifically at Lapin but I think that was probably dry. Most stuff right of N.Buttress was pretty dry.
Driving past it looked like there was some wetness around GA but Lapin may well escape that as it's pretty resistant to seepage.
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I'll be passing through tomorrow after 5 and wondered if it was worth nipping in or will I be eaten whole by the midge?
I would suggest that if the wind is from the west and light then avoid it, otherwise its worth the risk.
You can check the current situation on the Kilnsey weather station: http://www.mylocalweather.org.uk/upperwharfedale/ (http://www.mylocalweather.org.uk/upperwharfedale/)
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Any updates from today would be much appreciated, there was torrential rain in my part of Yorkshire over night and wondering if it had / is now having any impact on Kilnsey?
Thanks.
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Shouldn't be too bad as it was pretty dry. Which route were you thinking of doing?
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Thinking of the left hand end, Hardy Annual & Metal Guru. I know these would normally be OK at the moment, but the ammont of rain that fell at my house last night got me a little concerned!
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Metal Guru was dry yesterday and should still be fine.
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Any update on North Butress conditions - specifically Dominatrix?
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Almost everything is dry now. Full Tilt and Urgent Action still have some dampness.
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Still dry today and surprisingly midge free.
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Midges arrived at about 6ish at the left hand end, when the breeze died down. Absolutely dumped it down with rain at about the same time - the road from Grassington to Pateley Bridge was more like a river in places. Hopefully won't have too much of an effect on the crag though.
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wassit like at the moment anyone?
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Absolutely pissed it down today, lots of seepage started coming through very quickly. The usual suspects will be dry for a while longer, North Buttress was fooked.
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At least 50% wet today
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Just got back, more wet than dry, pretty grim.
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I could also moan about selfish parking and in-situ draws... but I did (some of) that last year :worms:
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Oh yeah, and if you do plan on chancing it, bring wellies or flip-flops; the beck is too high to ford keeping trainers dry.
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Worse today :'(
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Any brave souls been today - interested in Subculture or anything dry?
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Metal guru dry
Directissima-damp
Sticky Wicket dry
50 for 5 almost dry
Comedy damp
Pantomime dry ish
Ground Effect dry
Frankie dry except top
Highway dry
Etc
Starts of Subculture etc damp!
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Cheers Steve!
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It was significantly wetter on Saturday morning. It was drying back all day but was still much wetter than Friday when we left!
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As wet as I ever seen Kilnsey on Sunday. Only 4 completely dry routes:
Metal Guru
Alternative EXtra Option
Ground Effect
Truth Drug
It was drying back as we left about 5pm so with this weeks forecast sun should improve quickly.
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Matt has added a direct finish to AEO at about 7c/7c+
That should be dry too!
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Sorry I meant to say:
Matt has added a very good direct finish to No More Jumping to Conclusions (which finishes at the same lower off as Alternative Optional Extra) at about 7c/7c+
That should be dry too!
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Still pretty damp today, wetter than friday, no wind, no sun!
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Sorry I meant to say:
Matt has added a very good direct finish to No More Jumping to Conclusions (which finishes at the same lower off as Alternative Optional Extra) at about 7c/7c+
That should be dry too!
Air Rage, feels more like 7c+ than 7c.
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Air Rage, feels more like 7c+ than 7c.
You're a machine. If I give you my PC can you upgrade that as well?
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Sorry I meant to say:
Matt has added a very good direct finish to No More Jumping to Conclusions (which finishes at the same lower off as Alternative Optional Extra) at about 7c/7c+
That should be dry too!
Air Rage, feels more like 7c+ than 7c.
Are you saying the new extension is Air Rage? Different route, different buttress. Air Rage is Quiet Flight extension. This thing is to the right of Air Rage, finishes at Extra Option lower off. Climbs really well - some friable footholds still, as discovered yesterday. I'll withhold comment on the grade as it was greasy yesterday, so felt hard!
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Much drier on Sunday but too warm for me!
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perfect conditions today, dry rock felt fantastic....
unfortunately i have flu, man flu, the worst................
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Update from the cafe at Kilnsey Fish Farm:
12 hours of rain overnight and still raining!
:furious:
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it doesn't make it look any better, but you can graph the rainfall over the last 24hrs, 7days, month etc. on here:
http://www.mylocalweather.org.uk/upperwharfedale/ (http://www.mylocalweather.org.uk/upperwharfedale/)
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About half wet/dry.
North Buttress inc wysiwyg and The Thumb were wet yesterday.
Also wet déjà Vu and full value.
Subculture and Lapin dry.
Lots dry all the usually warm ups and training routes were dry too!
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Everything right of Butchers Dog was wet today also wet is 50 for 5, Directissima, The Bulge. Maybe half a dozen dry routes! Oh and it rained a lot today!
Elusive sticky damp on those few dry(ish) lines...
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Very cold and pretty grim on Sunday - most stuff very wet. Only dry routes were:
Metal Guru
Ground Effect
No More Jumping
Alternative Extra Option
Highway 395
Only 2 teams at the crag all day - cannot understand why!
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Went past Kilnsey on my way home for a second look. All that is vaguely dry is Big C and Face Value. The Ashes, Sticky Wicket etc is soaking. Highway, Optional etc all soaked. Everything is very wet except those two warm ups.
The surrounding fields are soaking, the roads are rivers.
Grim!
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About half a dozen dry routes on sunday, didn't stop, pushed on to Malham!
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Anyone been? I imagine it is dry but wondered if the snow melting has soaked through...
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Bone dry has been for ages!
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Any report from today? Cheers.
P.s what aspect is kilnsey?
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Any report from today? Cheers.
P.s what aspect is kilnsey?
opposite of malham. In shade all day from about 11. tends to get the wind. will be cold.
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Was at Kilnsey this morning. Pretty much bone dry everywhere, odd damp pocket. There hasn't been much traffic so it's all a bit dirty.
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Cheers lads
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Not as dry as I was expecting today. Lots of damp in bottom breaks and N Buttress had many seeping pockets. Would agree with state of the crag. Needs a good brushing.
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Must have been the rain we had yesterday evening. It was all pretty good when we were there in the morning. We were on full tilt and grooved arête.
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I was messing about at the bottom yesterday afternoon during the rain and the water was starting to come through the pockets at a faster rate as time went by.
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has anyone been today/yesterday? any info on comedy/the bulge would be much appreciated.
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Some one was on comedy this eve. Bit streaky on the North Butress. Mainly dry I think. (Beware I am a boulderer)
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Dunno if this is visible or not but it looks pretty dry at the moment:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151362565185846&set=a.10150251390640846.324442.671880845&type=1&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151362565185846&set=a.10150251390640846.324442.671880845&type=1&theater)
Edit: private picture. Just cos I'm nice I've re-hosted:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ca-MlDk0ivw/UXpY7WIM4vI/AAAAAAAAA5k/RTOWV27JUHk/s1600/922289_10151362565185846_542999428_o.jpg)
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Most things dry and mint conditions yesterday. I predict a busy weekend...
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True north and urgent both quite wet today - not even that workable, though were fine for working on Sat. Brief encouter looked soaked, think Indian summer was affected by a wet streak but not sure, couple of streaks right of cold steal. Otherwise think all dry.
If anyone goes midweek could you please post up how TN looks?
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I was amazed how much wetter it was yesterday than on Thursday. Still lots of climbable/workable stuff but in addition to Barrows list:
Biological wet at second clip (rh side pull/pinch), you could work the route but a RP prob not on the cards
Soft Option had a couple of wet pockets near the start, again workable but might make the RP a bit tricky.
I didn't look at Dalliance but I'd guess that it would also probably have damp pockets at the start.
The crag as a whole is really quite dry, but still dust/dirt on a lot of routes from over the winter (and last years washout season I guess) so pack a brush.
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I'm pretty desperate to get up mid-week if at all possible (can't think why...) so I'll let you know how TN looks if I manage to get there. However it was pretty much completely dry last Thursday (slight bit of dampness in the back of the always seeping bit) and yet still wet again at the weekend :shrug:. Could be the same story this week, mind you I guess knowledge is power and all that...
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Anybody have a look at North Buttress today?
Cheers Dave
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Sorry, I meant to post here yesterday.
From Thursday morning, where things were looking pretty good generally, it's got progressively wetter. Whilst I didn't massively check out North Buttress yesterday I know that WYSIWYG was getting more seepy through the day and I certainly looked a full tilt and thought it had probably gone beyond the point of being worth getting on.
Smarter Martyr/Massala Martyr had a pretty good river running down it, and the various options to the left left looked wet in places (I'd guess that ripper and biological would be similar?)
The stuff under the main overhang seemed OK, people were certainly on the usual things (ashes, 50 for 5 etc) and someone was working Mandella (but they said it was in a workable rather than redpointable state).
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Thanks - doesn't sound overly great.
Cheers Dave
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North Buttress was soaked, most stuff further right was dry
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Did anyone go yesterday thinking of an evening hit? Is the left side still holding out, directissima, metal guru etc went on Saturday and it was still holding strong just been a lot of rain since?
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As of yesterday evening: Metal Guru fine, Directissima fine to L1, Bullet, Cold Steal, MWAG all dry, Sticky Wicket dry, think there was someone on the Ashes in the afternoon so presumably dry.
Wetness on Dreamtime, top of Directissima, the top of Hardy Annual.
North Buttress very wet.
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Good comprehensive report cheers appreciate that sounds like its worth a punt.
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Today everything from Biological onwards had at least some wetness, and most stuff was gopping.
The stuff at the left hand side of main overhang looked to have a fair few wet streaks (although I didn't look closely) Sticky Wicket and 50 for 5 looked dry, the Ashes was probably mostly dry, I pressume Comedy would be climbable but I didn't look at it. Some of the stuff between main overhang and Biological was probably OK but again I didn't look very closely but off the top of my head some things around optional extra were probably OK, Witches Brew and maybe Frankie were climbable I think. I left at about 1:30 and things were drying back ehile I was there but:
1) There was a lot of wet streaks to begin with and still a lot of slightly shorter wet streaks when I left.
2) If the weather there has been anything like here it's rained a fair bit tonight which won't help.
If you have a NOrth Buttress project then it's probably time to come up with a new plan for the weekend...
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Just posted this on Facebook:
Was there yesterday. Would say that most routes had some wetness and it was horribly humid. Starting at the left end. The left side of main overhang - most routes had wet streaks. The right side of main overhang - looked dry-er Stick Wick, Ashes, 50 for 5 probably/possibly ok. Comedy bit probably OK but left sidewall wet. Pressume bulge etc was wet but didn't look. Witches Brew through to Optional Extra blah blah, some dryness and some routes prob OK but didn't look that closely, the overlap of China Crisis, My Hyde etc was definitely wet. Every route from Biological to the right end of the crag had wet holds. On the positive the wet streaks were shorter than last Thursday so it is drying back a bit, just slowly.
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any improvement?
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Which routes? Generally OK today, odd wet bits here and there.
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Everything bone dry Sunday - long may it last! :)
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Has anyone been to north buttress in the last couple of days?
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Still mostly dry. The pockets on Full Tilt were starting to seep a bit - an issue if Full Tilt's your limit, probably a minor inconvenience if you're trying True North.
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Take something to deter the midges!
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any updates from today would be much appreciated! cheers.
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Everything dry afaik, even true north which got crushed by Jon Freeman :thumbsup:
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Does anyone know if the dihedral wall area is likely to be dry in the rain/suffer much seepage after all of the crap weather?
Cheers
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the weather hasn't been that bad i suspect its dry as it has been dry for so long. but you might want to wait for a more accurate report as i haven't been for a few days, you might want to get yourself a midge net though as they have been quite bad in this still humid air.
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All totally fine yesterday. And no rain all day when we were there.
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Cheers chaps.
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Still completely bone yesterday evening despite the rain in the first half of the week
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Was planning to head to Kilnsey for the first time today and typically the weather seems to of turned! Will it stay dry in this misty damp weather, or is it a wasted trip? Cheers
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Depends on what else you have on but there will be stuff to climb there. Everything was dry yesterday so things like 50 for 5 and the Ashes will be dry still, at least.
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.updates appreciated from today / tomorrow: hoping to head up thursday.
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Lashed it down overnight Saturday/Sunday and lots of seepage & run-off.
North Buttress FUBAR
Diedre/Central Wall trad also fecked
For Keefe - Mandela - you'd get a pleasant shower at the rest before starting, and the undercut to clip the first draw was gopping. No actual seepage visible through the roof though
Stolen/Bullet/Showtime/Metal Guru weren't showing any seepage
Ashes/5-for-5/Comedy all dry and climbed yesterday
Bulge started dry but started seeping after lunchtime.
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North Buttress was partly wet on Sunday morning. Wet streaks from parts of the Thumb and WYSIWYG was soaked. But the routes to the right were dry (Subculture through to Grooved Arete and beyond). The wetness largely dried back during the day: as I left, a party was on Dead Calm. The water seemed more like surface run-off than "proper" seepage. The left hand side was largely dry all day (and very busy) - people were working Cold Steal, Man With A Gun, the Bulge, Tragedy, Ashes, Comedy, Pantomime etc.
So, no guarantees, but my guess would be that practically everything will be dry by now - although a few damp pockets on North Buttress might hold out for a while.
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all bets are off - heavy rain and thunder in Ilkley (around 15 miles from Kilnsey) - looks like the crags in for a soaking.
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Anyone out yesterday?
I'm specifically wondering if Mandela is wet again? Cheers.
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Mandela was mostly OK - there was a wet foothold on the crux, and you needed to dry your hands after doing the very start, and the break just before the belay was wet, but it was doable, just a bit more exciting. Unfortunately at the end of the day the ledges at the top of The Directissima were soaked.
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Forget any aspirations on Mandela for the near future, it's got wetter and it's rained heavily all day.
North Buttress is fucked, I don't mean to sound pessimistic but I don't think it'll ever be climbable again...
Subculture area still OK, as is the left end of the crag and most of the middle.
But for how long.........
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Anyone been this week, any dry rock at Kilnsey at all?
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Very wet yesterday, but still stuff to go at. I think we're in for a couple of drying days so hopefully things will improve.
I'm going back tomorrow with a sack full of optimism, and a brolly full of realism.
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Any updates available?
thanks
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Hey Tim was there tonight. Guess your asking about north buttress not sure on details but pretty decent but still with some seepy pockets. Wisywig and to the right pretty dry. Left side fine.
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pretty pretty wet yesterday afternoon. a hand full of routes dry but we turned round and did not bother trying to climb. Then more rain came!
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Thanks Big Man. Its so depressing. Time to go training?
:strongbench:
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Any up dates from anyone?
Just returned to UK.
Can't believe everything is wet.
Might be forced to go tradding!
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Depends what you want to get on. It is seepy but there are plenty of dry routes too. Not as bad as I thought it would be on Monday eve.
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Might be forced to go tradding!
:thumbsup:
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any improvement?
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Drying at last but still greasy yesterday.
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Anyone been on north buttress in the second half of the week?
thanks
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Everything bone dry and very good conditions yesterday, but cold, like really feckin' cold - lost one of our party to hypothermia, had to roll his body down the hill, fortunately in these temps it'll be months before he starts to smell.
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Loosing one of your team to hypo is quite common when climbing with the older climber . The main problem is heat loss from a bald head , or on a hot day the sun reflects off the grey hair hope that helps
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Anyone have any knowledge of conditions in Kilnsey?
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From driving past today all looked bone dry
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Any idea what sort of condition Kilnsey is in at the moment?
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Been past a couple of times today.
On the whole looks very dry, however the usual suspects on North Buttress look like they have some damp holds on them, (no wet streaks though)!
Would be a nice day for it today!
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Any one at the crag today ? A kilnsey update after all this rain would be appreciated
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Does anyone happen to know if Kilnsey is in good nick today?
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Heard kilnsey was dry last weekend... Has it rained enough up there for it to be seeping now? Anyone been in the last couple of days?
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The bouldering was dry last night ::)
Still a bit of seepage on north buttress, but not a great deal. It has however rained quite hard in Grassington this morning!!
What routes are you keen for, I am about to go up dale so could have a look for you!
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Nice one pretty keen for dominatrix but tbh anything in the 7b-7c range, cheers Dan!
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Slightly off topic - Is there a topo for the bouldering? Had a quick search but couldn't see anything other than some old threads with photos which don't work any more..
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I have a basic Kilnsey bouldering topo made by Andy B (itself culled from ukb threads) you could have. If there is anything better out there, I would appreciate a copy of that too (having to drive to Anston to feed my limestone bouldering habit is getting a bit onerous).
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Moose, would you mind posting me the Kilnsey topo too please? Will pm you my email address
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Topo is on its way; don't get your hopes up though, it is pretty limited (let's just say I always end up driving nearly 60 miles to Anston or South Lakes instead for my lime fixes).
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Not but definitely going to sort this out soon, Moose could you also send me your topo, just so I can use it as a reference.
Thanks
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Okay, PM me your email address and I'll email it to you.
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Any news on connies?
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Seems to have been plenty of action here recently. Is it totally dry or are certain routes/sections out? Was thinking specifically Urgent Action and Jellybeans for the weekend...
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People were on the Bulge on Wed and The Thumb so I think it's holding out fairly well. Ted mentioned that the start niche of Full Tilt was starting to show signs of seepage after the deluge last week.
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Urgent was bone dry on Tuesday.
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Excellent thanks. Worth the trip then.
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Some seepage on Kilnsey today but not enough to stop Alex climbing Freakshow with the aid of a wet rag.
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Some seepage on Kilnsey today but not enough to stop Alex climbing Freakshow with the aid of a wet rag.
And the big hold that came off yesterday...
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And the big hold that came off yesterday...
Doesn't change anything, there's still a jug there
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Even I climbed up a route there. so it can't have been too bad.
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Fucked? It's been a very water-table-raising week.
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North buttress was looking pretty grim when i drove past today..... sure the hard moves at the crag will be fine though!!!!
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Sorry to resurrect an oldie. I've posted this in the FB group (which seems to be the favoured source of Kilnsey info these days):
Parking at Kilnsey is under a lot of pressure this year (with other areas being wet). It's worth remembering that there's more parking towards Kettlewell so there's no need to squeeze onto the end of small bays or park on the double yellows.
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Meanwhile, down the road, Blu Ska is effectively banned due to parking issues. Park considerately you spoons :chair:
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Meanwhile, down the road, Blu Ska is effectively banned due to parking issues. Park considerately you spoons :chair:
Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!! Really!?!
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Can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not there Duncan. Use a smiley next time ;) :ohmy:
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I'm serious. Is it really banned? Was hoping to get there to do Central Wall this year... :wall:
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Blue Scar itself isn't exactly banned as it on open access land, but the usual walk in is banned as on private land, because the landowner was pissed off with people parking in front of his gates, so his tenant farmer couldn't use his farm buildings. (The tenant farmer is actually very supportive of climbers).
You can walk in over the tops, buts its a long walk in. You might want to check bird bans as well, people don't really climb there anymore, so I wouldn't be surprised if peregrine are nesting there again.
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Wot Dan said. Access is not banned per se, but access by the usual approach requires a number of hoops to be jumped through which makes it harder to climb there. There's an email address that you have to write to to get an application form. You then need to agree to the terms on there, most of which are quite reasonable, but two of these have the effect of a) banning the sport routes, and b) you must send a copy of your BMC membership card showing that you will be a member of the BMC for the duration of the climbing season.
I sent off for an application form and it took a little under 2 months to receive it by email. I've now dug out my BMC card to find that it's expired so I have to get that sorted and receive the new card before I complete the form. All of this has the effect of making it just difficult enough to climb at the place so as to make it prohibitive to most without actually imposing an out and out ban. This is exactly what the landowner wants since his main concern is parking and the problems kicked off after a load of easy sport was developed at the crag.
I think Dan is right when he says that you could approach over the CRoW land and climb at the crag without having to sign any agreement. The crag itself isn't owned by the person imposing the restriction, just the normal access route. However, if this becomes a norm (unlikely, the situation at Kilnsey is evidence that climber's will do anything to avoid even a 5 minute walk) then it may encourage the access landowner to speak to the crag owners to impose an all out ban. I think the boundary of the CRoW land is the cliff itself, making access to the base potentially tricky. This is the same situation as Guisecliff and there have been reports of climbers being confronted there in recent years. Didn't the farmer there pop his head over the top and start remonstrating with Sutty when he was doing the FA of some new E8?!
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Calm down Will!
All Kilnsey needs is for people visiting the crag to park respectfully and for people to politely challenge anyone that fails do so; pro-activity will hopefully make a busy season a non-issue (plus it's raining loads anyway and the midge have been hell).
Admittedly Blue Scar is now a ball ache.
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Calm down Will!
It's this referendum done got me riled up :boxing:
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Calm down Will!
It's this referendum done got me riled up :boxing:
What's all this about a referendum!!! First I've heard of it. Livid!
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To be fair the lay-by down the road towards Kettlewell often fills up on a busy weekend day. Are many people aware of the farmer who allows parking in his field (signed and pay about £1) about 6 mins walk further on past the large lay-by.
Assuming he still allows parking?