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places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: fatneck on April 13, 2015, 03:50:17 pm
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Thought these edges could do with their own thread...
Blackstone was windy as **** on Saturday but otherwise in good nick. Back edge boulders mostly not too boggy. Class venue, very keen to go back!
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How long does mikes arete take to dry ish? It looked like it might take a while die to the green ness last time I was there. Any experience?
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How long does mikes arete take to dry ish? It looked like it might take a while die to the green ness last time I was there. Any experience?
Not been for a while - but given the dry spell I recon there won’t be much green.. that tends to accumulate over a damp period. .
If it’s windy at all it will dry very fast - the holds are all cleaned anyway.
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Thanks, when its next stops raining for long enough i'll have a look.
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Thanks, when its next stops raining for long enough i'll have a look.
Blackstone has problems facing most directions - so even if it’s showery some thing will dry fast.
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True, Mikes is the main reason I am keen to return though!
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Yeah, that bit of rock is green but dries fast.
Does anyone ever do The Wedge? I thought that was great but it doesn't seem to get much interest. Maybe because it's not in one of the obvious areas?
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Blackstone was windy as **** on Saturday but otherwise in good nick. Back edge boulders mostly not too boggy. Class venue, very keen to go back!
It's a wind magnifier! I don't go if wind speed is in the teens. On the plus side, gentle summer breezes are ideal up there.
If you turn up to the car park and it's too windy, a good backup is nearby Higher Chelburn.
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Yeah, that bit of rock is green but dries fast.
Does anyone ever do The Wedge? I thought that was great but it doesn't seem to get much interest. Maybe because it's not in one of the obvious areas?
Is that the 7A+ down the hill. Big flat top low boulder with overhang on downslope end?
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the green was wet, but the holds were dry. lovely up here and connies arent bad! :2thumbsup:
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Does anyone ever do The Wedge? I thought that was great but it doesn't seem to get much interest. Maybe because it's not in one of the obvious areas?
Is that the 7A+ down the hill. Big flat top low boulder with overhang on downslope end?
Only just downhill from the path, sort of between The Anvil and the Lady's Not For Gurning area.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BnjIMJoDi1p/?igshid=113cf6hhtsct
the green was wet, but the holds were dry. lovely up here and connies arent bad! :2thumbsup:
:)
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I think I’ve done it...
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Had a do on fridge hugger sit. nails!
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Had a do on fridge hugger sit. nails!
Happy to provide some Beta... 😃
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Had a do on fridge hugger sit. nails!
Also got beta if it's wanted as there's lot of options it seems
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Beta is definitely welcome. ive seen some videos but felt like i was missing something ...
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4 methods I know of (YT May know others!) - all on YouTube except last.
1. Robins (Rf up)
2. GCW’s (Thuggery 😂)
3. Jez Drabbles way (LF up)
4. My way (left foot up with a knee on the lip to help)
5. Naomi B had a completely different way in an insta video.
Hardest part for me was getting my left foot up (flexibility and lack of anything to push off to get up there) but once it’s up it’s tricky but quite do-able. You can practice that move from a crouch/stand too.
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Getting lf up feels nails. I did think of naomis beta about 4 hours after leaving the crag. Next time!
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Getting lf up feels nails. I did think of naomis beta about 4 hours after leaving the crag. Next time!
I worked out that I could get the top of my left shin (just below knee) Held under the lip (hands/arms in compression) to then place the tip of my right shoe (stiff soled shoe) on the little nubbin cleaned under the roof. Then I could put weight on that right toe every so carefully and use it to udge/push my left toe onto the lip. I’m not very flexible...
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Flexibility is also not a current strong point of mine... Your video is much clearer when not watching on a (shit) phone screen.
There is nothing like a good knee scum, there are too many beta options, which is always a nice problem to have!
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Flexibility is also not a current strong point of mine... Your video is much clearer when not watching on a (shit) phone screen.
There is nothing like a good knee scum, there are too many beta options, which is always a nice problem to have!
For me crux was getting right toe to stick on the FA under the roof... throwing the left toe on from there went from a 25-80% move fairly quickly..,
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Interesting, would have thought the foot up was the crux. When my skin returns I will get back up there and have another play. Have you ever tried the sit to mikes?
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Interesting, would have thought the foot up was the crux. When my skin returns I will get back up there and have another play. Have you ever tried the sit to mikes?
It’s kind of part of the same move. Getting right toe to stick so you can drop the left leg in order to flick the left onto the edge. It’s quite core intensive keeping that all together. Once it’s on the edge you can actually adjust the left toe with some udging (as I do in my vid). My clip is a reall shit ascent - I did it the week before much better then dropped the last move...
Mikes: well there’s the crouch at 7A+ and the sit at 7B. Both much harder... come close on the crouch the sit is nails - think Robins the only one who’s repeated that...
Also worth a look at the SS to Naomi’s wall - (NW is a 3 star 6B imho anyway). Done ape hour? Basic but very satisfying... and Nicks traverse 7A+ still evades me (one for velcro day I think..). Trig point slab SS 7A is a super slab prob I’ve come so close on too... ok ok mornings before sun comes onto it.
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Fridge Hugger...
The thuggy beta was done by Gareth who created peakbouldering, not GCW.
Naomi's way with the knee looks cunning.
Another vid I saw recently.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBF4FbcD715/?igshid=kagn5ds8t33j
Mike's Arete...
What I did was a crouch start, from rh low on the arete and lh sloper. It felt about 7A+/7B. Good moves.
https://youtu.be/Osb1c10_ZpA
SS to Naomi's wall...
Seems nails/morpho!
Trig slab sit (Trig of the Light)...
This whole boulder is really nice. Also one of the fastest drying at the crag. Useful for damp days.
https://youtu.be/T4yGoiwFOUw
Nik's Trav... Just realised there are a few decent 7Aish traverses. Nik's Trav, Patiopia, Pony Club and Long Distance Echo (added last year, end of this vid...)
https://youtu.be/E3KVu-MCerA
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Robin - to test your memory - spent some skin on Underdog today - and could get to the position in your pic (Big pull out to the right arête with a heel-toe on the right) but got a bit lost / indecisive what to do next. Heel round to the left and get the left arête then top - or go for the flat edge top direct... I was tired - and bleeding... :D
(http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/IMG_2394.jpg)
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Memory is hazy! But I think it was a pull through for the top. And in the intro page for the Blackstone chapter, that's what it looks like I'm aiming for.
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Dang! Didn’t know that! Thanks. Yes looks like the top rather than the left arête from your body position. Nice pic.
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Nice to say hello (albeit from a distance) to you today Tomtom. Had a lovely time at Blackstone. Can't believe I've never been up before. The walk in has always put me off a little, but what a great moorland crag. Some really nice problems and not too harsh on the skin for moorland grit. Except it sounds like underdog was giving you a rough time on the skin. Will definitely be back for a few more problems.
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Does anyone ever do The Wedge? I thought that was great but it doesn't seem to get much interest. Maybe because it's not in one of the obvious areas?
Did this yesterday, one of the best up there for sure
Also did project 14, p.293 (but starting slightly left) in the lancs guide on the miniblocks yesterday, it's a one move slap but not bad (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143679324@N05/49983815371/)
With a blackstone getting some attention, the first repeat of the hardest trad line up there (https://www.instagram.com/p/BxXTRq1jWRL/) is still up for grabs, very much a boulderers route with only a couple tough moves.
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Looks bold! Did anyone test the sling? Tryche has been on my long time list up there, but have only taken a rope up once for easy stuff.
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Never tested the sling, would be really interesting to see though.
Tryche, is great. Some balancy slab moves to a nice sloper then relatively steady up to a perfect cam slot at a height that's just getting a little spicy then probably the hardest off balance moves right at the end but should be an okay fall given how bomber the cam is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTS4K44ctnc&t=139s 2:02 for Tryche
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I saw your Tryche video the other day, it reminded me I needed to do it! Cheers for putting one up. Don't suppose you know what you rigged off at the top and the cam size for the slot (on tryche) ? Don't fancy lugging a whole rack up if I can avoid it...
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Think the toprope was just off a static round the big block on top and pretty sure the cam was a wc 1
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That will save me a few kgs, thanks!
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Did Mike's arête from a low start today, although not a full sitter (which seems super bunched and awkward) it adds a couple really nice moves to the stand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVk5Xn4nyhk
Same start as Robin but different (and easier(?)) beta. Probably only 7a/7a+ this way, since I think the stand is probably only about 6c/6c+ anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Osb1c10_ZpA
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Effort 👍👍 There was a FB video of a lad doing it on the lancs rock revival group - and the main difference for the sit rather than crouch seemed to be having the RH in the lower break (around the arête) at the same height as the Lh. He did start off three pads though.
It’s funny - I find the stand really quite balancy/tricky and it’s where my height works against me... it’s a great problem though.
Have you done the 7A on the trig point slab yet? That’s good.
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Yeah the sitter is definitely one where the more and thicker your pads the easier it will be to pull on. Although I guess it still would add a hard move to bump the right hand into the better hold where I started. Definitely felt easier to go straight up with my left, rather than trying to catch the undercut which felt very hard. Its a little knacky and you have to hold the swing a little but didn't feel too bad in the end.
I can see it being harder if you are tall. The move up with your left hand off the balancy left foot is a strange move and I could that being quite height specific.
What is the 7a on the trig slab? I don't have the guide, my brother has it and is away at the moment.
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Rh side of the slab. Just left of the arête - with no arête. 6C+ stand 7A from a sit... Low pocket then pebbles and ripples...
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Sounds good. I'll check that out next time I'm up there. I've done the arete from a sitter, which uses the pocket I think you are talking about. I imagine its pretty hard without the arete, definitely worth a look.
Tried to repeat Ape Hour and it felt horrendous. Right hand slopey crimp was so greasy, couldn't get anything out of it today. Didn't find it too bad last time. Summer grit I guess.
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Yes was humid yesterday. Good effort.
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Cheers tomtom. It’s a really good problem, definitely one of the best I’ve done at blackstone. Can’t believe I’d never been up before this year. Really good crag. Deserves a bit more love. Maybe the walk in puts people off.
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Same. Couple of visits starting last year, if it was in the Peak people would be all over it.
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Can’t believe I’d never been up before this year. Really good crag. Deserves a bit more love. Maybe the walk in puts people off.
Dove Lowe is great (longer walk in) - like a mini Almscliff. Cows mouth boulders are great too (quarry does less for me). Stony edge has some nice problems too. Did you get on Naomi's wall (think I recommnended that when I saw you there) - its 'only' 6b+ but a class and tricky problem. Home improvements area has nice problems too. Patopia is only a lowball shuffle but great.
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I have a soft spot for the quarry in general, and the highball HVS/E2 stuff is quite pleasant. The don, screwy, and other stuff on that wall. I'm a big fan of both blackstone and almscliff, so Dove Lowe is now on the list!
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I'll have to check those venues out. Any particular recommendations in the 6c-7b range? I'll have to borrow the guide of my brother once he gets back. Bit harder to get to the longer walk in venues. I tend to only have quick sessions outside due to work/childcare etc, but I'll try accrue some brownie points to spend.
Yeah we managed Naomi's wall. Nice problem and quite tricky I thought. I think you said there is another 7a ish down that end somewhere that is really nice, but can't remember what it called. Nick's traverse?
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I'll have to check those venues out. Any particular recommendations in the 6c-7b range? I'll have to borrow the guide of my brother once he gets back. Bit harder to get to the longer walk in venues. I tend to only have quick sessions outside due to work/childcare etc, but I'll try accrue some brownie points to spend.
Yeah we managed Naomi's wall. Nice problem and quite tricky I thought. I think you said there is another 7a ish down that end somewhere that is really nice, but can't remember what it called. Nick's traverse?
Yeah - that goes all around the large bloc below the ape hour block.... without using the top. hardest part is getting around the south corner... can be boggy in winter!! Dove Lowe is just a cool spot. Once got stranded there during a thunderstorm with no cover - and had to sit on my bouldering mat c.5m away from the crag getting piss wet through... thankfully no lightning near by. Rock there has some really great formations. Tangled up in Blue is great... Fatneck did a nice problem called Scrittle masala too.. All in the up to 7B range (except for a few harder things Mike Adams did that are not in the guide..).
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Cheers tomtom. I'll try check those out in the not too distant future.
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This gives a flavour of Stony - http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/stony-edge/
Same parking as Blackstone and head the other way via Cow's Mouth. Longish walk but worthwhile, I'll be going back.
There's an update somewhere listing all the completed projects (always thought it quite generous to list these) from Lancs Bouldering and newer stuff but can't remember where now?
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Being based in Mossley, I've tended to walk into Blackstone along the Pennine way from the south side. Park near the radio(?) tower and then cross the spooky bridge over the motorway. Not walked in from the other side although I got the impression it was 50/50 anyway. Will have to use the other parking for Stony, Dove Lowe etc anyway.
Whilst this doesn't quite count as Lancashire, has anyone done Ditch Diggin at Alderman in the Chew Valley? Had a look at it a few years ago but it seemed very tricky. Meaning to go back, but some beta might be nice.
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Did Mike's arête from a low start today, although not a full sitter (which seems super bunched and awkward) it adds a couple really nice moves to the stand.
Yeah, I reckon the crouch start is the nicest version. The full sitter is for completists.
Here's the sitter vid Tom mentioned earlier. https://m.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682?view=permalink&id=2721715538073877
Maybe 7A stand, 7A+ low, 7B sitter?
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There's an update somewhere listing all the completed projects (always thought it quite generous to list these) from Lancs Bouldering and newer stuff but can't remember where now?
There's a page on the website. Crags in alphabetical order...
http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/projects/
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This video got me keen for all of these!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXWQjdjWnYU&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXWQjdjWnYU&feature=youtu.be)
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Did Mike's arête from a low start today, although not a full sitter (which seems super bunched and awkward) it adds a couple really nice moves to the stand.
Yeah, I reckon the crouch start is the nicest version. The full sitter is for completists.
Here's the sitter vid Tom mentioned earlier. https://m.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682?view=permalink&id=2721715538073877
Maybe 7A stand, 7A+ low, 7B sitter?
Thanks for the video. That looks hard and bunched. Good effort by that lad, he looks strong on it.
I thought the low start was really good. 7a+ is probably reasonable. Seems to depend on how hard you find the stand. Tomtom says he finds it tricky due to his height whereas I don't find it too bad. Maybe it just suits me. Any plans for a future guide update where we can argue over grades until our hearts are content? ;D
Not sure I'll be as psyched to try the sitter. Not very good at bunched problems. Need to do more yoga. But never say never.