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places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: markwellin on February 24, 2011, 10:44:16 am
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alright guys,
could anyone help we with some info for here please?
planning to go somewhere other than sportland or swanage for two days next friday and saturday.
weather forecast says it should be mainly dry after this weekend, so will the crag be seeping after 4 dry days?
also is there places nearby that you can wild camp without pissing anyone off?
the plan is to get on one of the classic 7c+'s or the cider soak so specific seepage warnings for any of those routes would be great.
cheers
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Haven't been down recently (owing to all the rain) so someone else may be along with more current observations but Ansteys does get quite a lot of seepage in the winter so it's probably 50/50 whether your planned routes will be ok or not.
Empire and Oozy in my pocket will almost certainly be wet in the lower third, Just Revenge/Avenged the crimp on the crux tends to take drainage so while the rest of the route could be ok you might suffer there. The cider soak, there's a seepage line that goes down to the pocket at the end of the crux so that could well be damp. The Lynch will probably be gopping inside the crack (not that you were planning on doing that!).
Wild camping, can't really help I'm afraid. I would have thought nowhere nearby (unless you want to hunker down in a corner of Long Quarry Point) owing to all the dog walkers, someone else might be along who knows different though.
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weather forecast says it should be mainly dry after this weekend, so will the crag be seeping after 4 dry days?
also is there places nearby that you can wild camp without pissing anyone off?
the plan is to get on one of the classic 7c+'s or the cider soak so specific seepage warnings for any of those routes would be great.
there will likely be plenty of dryness, although ansteys can be very unpredictable at times (ie great when you think its likely to be cack and vice versa). However, TCS seeps quite a bit, the pocket doesn't make too much difference, but if the jugs below the final groove are soaked it'llbe an awful lot harder.
JR will likely be ok ish but wet deep in breaks, and possibly with a patch or two. On the plus side, the cocytus area is nearly always dry, as is la creme, devonshire cream, how the mighty fall and several others.
camping: if you hike down onto long quarry point that would be sound, there may be fishermen there too. don't camp on walls hill downs, as much because local youths / doggers will bother you as because people who live nearby won't like it. Dossing at the crag also possibly not cool as could jeopardise access. Sorry don't know of any quality torbay dosses.
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Any weather knowledge on 'revenge' or just ansteys in general?
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still no news??
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Anyone got any idea what Ansteys is doing at the moment seepage wise? Worth a punt?
Mostly interested in Empire.
In the event that Ansteys is gopping, is Torbryn likely to be a good backup choice...?
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Anyone been down of late? Interested in either Torbryan or Ansteys, Empire would be an obvious target but happy to go for other classics in the 7s instead given Empires reputation for seepage. Be nice if some of the easier stuff like Might and Main or that 6c at Torbryan were dry too so my better half will have something to do...
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Anyone been down of late? Interested in either Torbryan or Ansteys, Empire would be an obvious target but happy to go for other classics in the 7s instead given Empires reputation for seepage. Be nice if some of the easier stuff like Might and Main or that 6c at Torbryan were dry too so my better half will have something to do...
I was at the Cove yesterday.
Empire? you must be joking... I'm afraid midwinter conditions on that one are usually very poor indeed, and it is soaking at the moment. M&M will likely be dry. The ferocity wall is dry apart from cider soak; the slabs at the bottom will be ok.
Torbryan.... not been for a while, but if you mean mayday, it usually has a wet bit or two at this time of year at least. the other two 6c ish routes dry more quickly. (boogie on down and the slightly off vertical one on the right)
Hope that helps
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Cheers Toby.
Yeah I figured Empire might be a long shot, but I've only been down there once before (yes, empire was soaking) but it was so long ago I couldn't remember if that was after wet weather or what. Hey ho.
I assume the slabs at the bottom = cocytus and it's neighbours - if so I guess that means Ansteys has more options at the minute than Torbryan - any idea on how the *** 7a+ ish one there (thread flintstone?) is for drying time - any better than Empire? It's flowstone isn't it...
Cheers for the beta!
Andy
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I assume the slabs at the bottom = cocytus and it's neighbours - if so I guess that means Ansteys has more options at the minute than Torbryan - any idea on how the *** 7a+ ish one there (thread flintstone?) is for drying time - any better than Empire? It's flowstone isn't it...
It is very rare that you cannot climb anything at Ansteys. Cocytus itself takes a little while to dry, but if the sun is out, American Express 7a+, La creme 7c+ (V8!), More Steam... 7b, tuppence 8b, Nowt ta do... 7a, and a few others dry within an hour or two. Others such as How the mighty... 7a+ a little longer, but not much. Empire takes a week or so at least.
Torbryan is pretty quick drying apart from a few holes and pockets, and is not a bad winter crag. Thread Flintstone will certainly be dry a LOT quicker than Empire, but it will depend how much the sun had been out in the afternoons there (when it gets it). TF is probably about the same difficulty for most people as Empire BTW... and yes it is flowstone, and brilliant.
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La creme 7c+ (V8!)
I was hoping to push to 7c+ this year, but if it's V8 I will remove that one from the list of potential targets and find something less bouldery!
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La creme 7c+ (V8!)
I was hoping to push to 7c+ this year, but if it's V8 I will remove that one from the list of potential targets and find something less bouldery!
I am shit at really hard moves, but i think frustrating, slopy conditions dependent V8 is about right.
Threadbare is a comparative path, and even easier if you are tall, or have very small fingers. There is a really steady one at Churston too, if you like slabs.
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I heard the hold after the slopey gaston at the top of Threadbare had come off fairly recently - is this true and if so, does anyone know how much harder it is now?
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For anyone that's interested, Torbryan was in decent nick today - some slimy holds at the very bottom of Thread Flintstone and Barney Rubble but both those got done together with Boogie on Down and Bedrock. Sme of the other stuff looked ok too.
Thread Flintstone was ace!
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Anyone know how Anstey's is looking at the moment? I'm looking at getting on Empire of the Sun as a first 7b so not really capable of climbing it if it's more than very slightly wet.
It is supposed to piss down all day tomorrow, will it be ok on Tuesday? The top is slabby isn't it, so that will render it unclimbable tomorrow I guess?
Anyway, any beta on conditions would be well recieved :) I'll ask some people who live down this was and are in the know and post up anything useful...
Dunc
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I doubt anyone cares or needs to know conditions for here, but went yesterday and climbed during intermittent heavy rain and hail showers!
Only a small bit of wetness on Empire at the break but it doesn't make any difference to the climbing. Top left hand pocket was a bit gummy though and this got very wet after showers as the water drained straight off the top into it. Still well doable, though not quite for me.
My mate was lapping Avenged and that was all fine too I think apart from the wet pocket on Empire. But if it isn't showery then this will be fine.
HTH someone :)
Dunc
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Anyone know how much seepage there is at Ansteys at the mo? With all the rain I'm guessing all the usual suspects will be dripping but if anyone's got an update before we head down for a look on Weds that would be appreciated!
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I was there briefly on Saturday. Wall with Empire on was pretty streaky with seepage, How the mighty fall was climbable (that's all I did) and there were folks on Tuppence. The Lynch looked damp but the rest of that wall looked OK. Sunday was miserable though and must have put down a fair bit more water - we just drove North to outrun the rain...
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Anybody going down this week or have a magic wand and would like to predict if Cider Soak (or anything else!) will be dry on Saturday? I've got a very rare free pass of the year to climb on Sat and it looks like the whole countrys gonna crap out :'(
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Ta for the info. We didn't chance it today but went to Torbryan instead. And despite bone-dry roads fuelling hope on the way in from Newton Abbott it is absolutely gopping at the mo, never seen it this bad even in the depths of winter. The first 3 bolts of Barney Rubble were pretty much the only dry rock on the crag.
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Anybody going down this week or have a magic wand and would like to predict if Cider Soak (or anything else!) will be dry on Saturday?
Second this, anyone?
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Anybody going down this week or have a magic wand and would like to predict if Cider Soak (or anything else!) will be dry on Saturday?
Second this, anyone?
Yeah where are all the devon full-timers hiding? Pull your socks up guys! I'll find out how much it rained last few days but I am tempted to risk it Iain. Will have to try and persuade others that it's worthwhile.
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Yeah where are all the devon full-timers hiding?
Indoors because it's raining every day! >:(
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Yeah where are all the devon full-timers hiding?
Indoors because it's raining every day! >:(
That's no excuse! You should be driving round in the rain desperately seeking the one piece of dry rock in the county so that you can report it on here and win the praise and admiration of your peers! ;)
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Not looking good down in Devon! Some of the boulder caves in Chudleigh could be dry and that's about it I bet! Have a look at the predicted rain rate tomorrow!
Otherwise, there's always DWS in the rain ...
Just give me a shout in the morning and we'll arrange something
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You should be driving round in the rain desperately seeking the one piece of dry rock in the county
We all know where that is so there's no need to go and look - it's the gully wall at Chudleigh, always dry! :P
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As tempting as a wall at Chudleigh is I think we'll do Portland instead, bound to be something dry there.
Good luck if anyone does try Ansteys.
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Anyone been down to the cove today?
What are the chances of finding dry rock :please: ? Specifically interested in Cider Soak and Boy George.
Thinking of heading down tomorrow but driving from Oxford so would be a long way to go to find it soaked...
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Didn't risk it today but the missus went to Torquay today and said it rained quite a lot and was a bit misty. I'd get back to Malham if I was you ;).
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Anyone been recently? Is this likely to be dry at all? Or even Torbryan? Or has the British monsoon season pretty much written off bank holiday climbing down south?
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Went for a look this morning. Piss wet at ansteys. A couple climbing the lower wall of avenged but top part wet. Ferocity wall gopping.
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Went for a look this morning. Piss wet at ansteys. A couple climbing the lower wall of avenged but top part wet. Ferocity wall gopping.
Fucks sake, i'm going to a wedding in Devon next weekend and was hoping to get a bit in :ras:
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Ferocity could be mint in a week Doyle
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Ferocity could be mint in a week Doyle
In this country? :shrug:
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Any updates on ferocity wall?
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Went for a look this morning. Piss wet at ansteys. A couple climbing the lower wall of avenged but top part wet. Ferocity wall gopping.
Fucks sake, i'm going to a wedding in Devon next weekend and was hoping to get a bit in :ras:
And what about the climbing?
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Was down at Ansteys today, the lower half of Empire was still seeping and fairly gopping. Oozy was probably affected too. Everything else was dry, even the Lynch and Cider Soak. We ended up on Cocytus / more steam which was fine. If it stays sunny till the weekend then Empire should be dry as well.
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Anyone know how Anstey's/Torbryan are fairing? Down in Devon visiting the olds and torn between moor/limestone.
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On Tuesday Torbryan was in pretty good nick except for Mayday and the bottom section of threadbare (LH start) and a seep down Little White Lie direct start. The deeper pockets were damp but Thread Flintstone, Barney Rubble, Boogie etc were all good. Weather's not been too bad since so it should be fine for the weekend.
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Ansteys today - Empire Wall was dripping, looked like full winter seepage when we arrived. Just Revenge had damp patches, these were drying through the day. Also seepage patches round on How the Mighty Fall. On Ferocity Wall unsurprisingly Cider Soak was wet around the pocket and top break and more surprisingly the Lynch looked dry...
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Ended up at Anstey's on Saturday. Empire wall still wet but drying out, The Lynch totally dry and hot in the sun. Doubt there was any rain there today.
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Conditions update anyone? Got a bit of time off coming up and I fancy going down and getting on Empire or Lynch if they're dry...
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Anyone been down recently? Keen for Cider Soak, Boy George and The Mightier.
Thanks
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Repeat of above request? Any seepage info much appreciated. Also is Torbryan climbable at the moment?
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I live in hope.... anyone been down? Interested in The Lynch, Cider Soak, Cocytus.
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Dropped by today for a look around, bad news unsurprisingly. Empire wall is blacker than I've ever seen it, it will probably take the best part of a month to dry out properly from now. Don't think there's any routes on the wall that aren't affected - there's probably two holds dry on Empire itself. Round the corner there's shiny wet dampness on the upper half of How the Mighty & the Waffle Supremacy. If you fancy the Mightier then that looks ok.
Ferocity Wall - if you fancy Devonshire Cream, or La creme you're in luck, otherwise Cider Soak and the Lynch are wet and there's a couple of seeps coming down from the top on what I think are the finishes of Poppy and Tuppence.
Cocytus area - American express looks good, the corner of Cocytus is quite gopping and there's a lot of seepage out of the roof on More Steam...
Also had a look at Torbryan which can be summed up as if there's a pocket on the route then it's seeping. Not encouraging...
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Any been down recently? How's it looking?
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Empire Wall was still fairly damp last Friday, but it is drying out.
Ferocity Wall isn't too bad, Tuppence and Cider Soak dry except maybe the very top, though the pocket on CS is still seeking.
Haven't been this week though I don't think it will have got much worse.
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All dry today.
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Any predictions on dryness of Ansteys/Torbryan for tomorrow? Thanks!
Ian
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Not been myself but I was told that the usual suspects (Empire, Just Revenge, the Lynch, Cider Soak) were all pretty wet at the weekend. Given all the rain since I can't imagine it will be any better.
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We had pretty much record rainfall over night, and several torrential showers today.
Which are continuing as I type (though, this one has persisted for a1/2 hr already, so may be set in for the night?). I haven't bothered walking down myself, but the local crowd seem to be hunkered at the bunker...
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Oh, and it's still blowing a hoolie...
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if anyone has good knowledge of what this place is like during rain/after rain/seepage, could you if you go there let me know what its like after the weekend. im coming down for wednesday and thursday.........any info/updates welcome.
thanks
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It's fine right now.
But, the ground is still pretty wet and some of the shadier spots were still seeping a week ago. I've not been down this week due to injury. We're forecast heavy rain tomorrow, lighter on Monday and showery Tuesday. Some of the boys were bouldering down there today and it was ok.
After tomorrow's rain....?
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And it's hammering down!
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Anyone been down there recently? Have not been before, looking to get on Empire, maybe a few other things too?
Cheers
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On Tuesday everything was totally dry but I think Empire Wall may be a little wet after this weekend's rain.
Usually dries out pretty quickly though and forecast looks good for this next week.
Ferocity Wall will most likely be dry.
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Anyone been on Cidersoak this week and know if it's dry? I hear it's been raining a lot.
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It was soaked with runoff this morning, but drying as the day went on. Going back tomorrow and keen to try it so will let you know. Hot and greasy when the sun came out...
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Not been out to look.
But it's stayed dry all day and the sky is still clear here at the moment...
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I'm assuming with the recent weather that empire and its neighbours will be piss wet - would anyone hold out hope for Cider soak at the weekend or is that likely to be well gone too? Don't really know how wet that bit gets...
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I'm assuming with the recent weather that empire and its neighbours will be piss wet - would anyone hold out hope for Cider soak at the weekend or is that likely to be well gone too? Don't really know how wet that bit gets...
I'd say odds on there will be water pouring from the pocket, and the top break would be wet. Other routes maybe ok. La Creme is always dry...
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Cheers Toby. I'd had hopes of doing a recce before the winter and then trying to get down and tick it in the spring but with the weather the past few weekends and Christmas fast approaching I'm running out of options for it!