UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: shark on March 31, 2015, 12:09:29 pm
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Weather looking promising after Saturday. Ill be staying in Recloses en famille. So looking to out with just the boys or whole tribe. Keen to get back on Lady Big Claques at Buthiers but otherwise open to suggestions if anyone fancies meeting up to get stuck into some classy problems in the 6C-7A range.
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Myself and Sam T will be staying with families in Noisy sur Ecole. Hopefully we will be within walking distance of lots of the Trois Pignon. I will be in the same grade range as you though also hoping to find the 7b that has my name on it. I'm well excited..
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Will be staying south of Nemours with a couple families but meeting a mate who's staying with his MiL in Melun, so probably be meeting in the middle most days. Prerequisites are kids & yellow circuits for the girls plus a blue or red for the gents and harder stuff for me, so likely be Sabot, Canche, JA Martin, Canon/Rocher St Germain, possibly Nainville or Elephant. Hoping to get back to Buthier for a go at La Rampe, likely day 3 or 4 when everyone else wants a rest day... Teaming up for LBC sounds appealing if we can coordinate our days. Also looking to climb low 7s and hoping to find a 7B that suits.
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Hoping to get back to Buthier for a go at La Rampe, likely day 3 or 4 when everyone else wants a rest day... Teaming up for LBC sounds appealing if we can coordinate our days. Also looking to climb low 7s and hoping to find a 7B that suits.
La Rampe would be best on a cool day or early start or both. I've slithered off that a few times.
Myself and Sam T will be staying with families in Noisy sur Ecole. Hopefully we will be within walking distance of lots of the Trois Pignon. I will be in the same grade range as you though also hoping to find the 7b that has my name on it. I'm well excited..
:2thumbsup:
Maybe arrange to meet up on Sunday morning somewhere at Trois Pignon ?
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Usual place at chenou... En familie.
High 6s to low 7s ideal for me and the lad
Easy day at merciers for the little uns to get back into it ( and easter Egg hunt... Bit of a family tradition)
Then any south 3 pigeons venue. I've never been to the "90 s" at all!!!
If going well will try barre fixe and some terrifying high reds that have eluded me over the years
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La Rampe would be best on a cool day or early start or both. I've slithered off that a few times.
Yeas I know, had a quick go on a hot day last year. Planning some early morning hits but that might be a bit far, hoping for a cool day...
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I hate you all.
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You can come too Nibs, you don't HAVE to have a family. Though if you didn't have kids you would be mad to go to Font at Easter.
LBC and La Rampe would be good though I feel alergic to making plans. Stops it being a holiday if you have to know where you need to be tomorrow. Having said that a Sunday morning Trois Pignon meet sounds good.
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Yeah. Very much a holiday vibe for sure.
I'll b at merciers on Sunday. The kids love it there. I'll just hang out and have some fun.
After that.. Whatever. Although the elephant is a must visit. The kids just run around like loons. Happy days, first holiday for 6 months.
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Canche is a strong possibility for us first day too, been pondering on which area might be quietest Sun & Mon with them being bank holidays without being a massive drive.
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Cheers guys, I'd like very much to come. Unfortunately, I have to work. If I'm lucky I'll try and go to Varazze for a couple of days that I will spend chasing shamelessly a grade that's too hard for me.
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Canche is boss but I'd highly recommend popping over the road to Bois Rond. Went for the first time last week and it was great, can't believe I hadn't been before... Saw Tommy Caldwell en famille while we were there too :weakbench:
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a couple of days that I will spend chasing shamelessly a grade that's too hard for me.
Moi Aussi ;D
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Canche is boss but I'd highly recommend popping over the road to Bois Rond. Went for the first time last week and it was great, can't believe I hadn't been before...
Good shout, never been either. Looks the sort of place the male side of our trip would enjoy, probably enough yellows to keep the girls happy too. Maybe after a couple of days when the kids are bored of climbing.
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Canche is boss but I'd highly recommend popping over the road to Bois Rond. Went for the first time last week and it was great, can't believe I hadn't been before... Saw Tommy Caldwell en famille while we were there too :weakbench:
:agree: Bois Rond is really cool and also a good place for kids. Some nice flat clearings once you go up the hill a bit.
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Bois Rond is great but I always find the grades on the hessian & silica side of the spectrum, a word of caution I've seen more big vipers there than anywhere else in Font and at this time of the year they're likely to be sluggish and less able to slither away that + kids = high risk of snakebite.
I'm really jealous and can't wait 'til our family holiday to font in the summer: the conditions might not be as good but I bet you'll not be sitting by the pool after a morning on the rock.
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I hate you all.
+1
:)
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Pfft. Spain on the 9th will suffice.
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I hate you all.
+1
:)
Nah, Font's shit, the bouldering's crap, the forest is ugly, the patisserie is shite, the cheese is disgusting, the fresh baguettes are revolting, the cider and wine are horrid...
At least that's what I have to tell myself...
:'(
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We usually to to Canche at some point but I have never been to Bois Rond so would be psyched for a bit of a fresh flava. Although it wouldn't feel like a Font trip without a few desultry tries on the uninspiring roof crack 7a at Canche..
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Although it wouldn't feel like a Font trip without a few desultry tries on the uninspiring roof crack 7a at Canche..
Grande Marche?? By that daft 8a backwards jump? Planning to have a look at that, short of stuff to go at that doesn't go sideways.
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Might see some of you out there, camping at Grez sur Loing with a posse from Sheffield from Saturday.
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I had a brief play on this (http://bleau.info/canche/11351.html) at Canche last week, couldn't do the deadpointy move out left after the start move (bit reachy for me) but thought the rest of it added up to a quality problem...
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without a few desultry tries on the uninspiring roof crack 7a at Canche..
I enjoyed this/found it not too bad though I think small/low volume hands make the holds in the crack more pleasant to use? I agree with Fatneck that Mardi Gras was great and was also pleased to do Parabellum http://bleau.info/canche/11986.html which I enjoyed (mainly becuase I have tried it on previous trips and been nowhere close), though it does involve pulling hard on sharp crimps (I also thought was harder than Grand Marche or Mardi Gras)
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I had a brief play on this (http://bleau.info/canche/11351.html) at Canche last week, couldn't do the deadpointy move out left after the start move (bit reachy for me) but thought the rest of it added up to a quality problem...
check out the style (50s in), complete control:
http://vimeo.com/41615882
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also pleased to do Parabellum http://bleau.info/canche/11986.html which I enjoyed
Cheers, that and Gros Doigts next to it on the list with Grande Marche.
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Although it wouldn't feel like a Font trip without a few desultry tries on the uninspiring roof crack 7a at Canche..
Grande Marche?? By that daft 8a backwards jump? Planning to have a look at that, short of stuff to go at that doesn't go sideways.
Worth doing. Footage of some punter doing it here with bonus pisstake Shakira soundtrack from lagers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoacemgefDk
The sitstart next to Parabellum, Gros Doigts is also ok and pretty soft for 7A. It's just two moves into the blue stand.
http://bleau.info/canche/11987.html
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Grande Marche?? By that daft 8a backwards jump? Planning to have a look at that, short of stuff to go at that doesn't go sideways.
Yes that's the one, it's not particularly good though.
Seeing as you'll be most of the way to Petit Bois, I'd recommend going and doing La Baleine (7A+) if you haven't. Top quality. Big Jim is there too and is another quality, highball 6C.
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Yes that's the one, it's not particularly good though.
True, but if you're only there for a week and are doing the compulsory trip to Canche for the family then that and Gross Doigts are worth doing. If only to get a couple of pretty amenable 7 ticks under the belt!
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check out the style (50s in), complete control
Ha! Sketchy! I was trying to do the slap out left from the right hand sloper/crimp hold... Didn't think about going again before doing the slap! Another one for next time...
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Staying about 10 mins from Petit Bois but mate in Melun is probably closer to an hour and doesn't rate the place. Got it pencilled in for an early morning or evening raid, I usually get out at first light a couple of times, beautiful being alone in the forest at dawn, as long as it's not Cuvier.
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beautiful being alone in the forest at dawn, as long as it's not Cuvier.
You're never alone at Cuvier
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IIRC La Baleine could do with a spotter to stop you tumbling down the hill if you fall off. I only tried it once in the worst conditions I've ever experienced but I remember it feeling a bit spicy greasing off the slopey break.
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I hate you all.
+1
:)
+2
I'm filled with jealousy and sadness. How have I still not been to Font? it's a mystery.
:'(
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Yeah it is a tricky landing, flattish but rooty and lots of directions you could spin off in so needs coverage. Planning to borrow the entire party's pads overnight and hope 4 is enough.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8717/16964662266_4f333a71b4_c.jpg)
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Me, footwork and another will be arriving on Friday night. Staying for a week in courtilles du lido camping. If you see us then come and say hello! Never been to font before so not sure what I'll be getting on. Hopefully the classics in the low to mid 7s.
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I hate you all.
+1
:)
+2
I'm filled with jealousy and sadness. How have I still not been to Font? it's a mystery.
:'(
+3
You pack of bastards (coincidentally, my autocorrect just changed bastards to bad tarts)
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For those not going to Font why not go to Northumberland?
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Sas may struggle with that one too...
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For those not going to Font why not go to Northumberland?
Why go to Northumberland when there are lots of dank quarries in Lancashire to behold! Just think what you're missing all you Font-ers. Happy days *squelch*
Stuff your fancy pastries - I'll be filling my boots on Pain au Eccles and Pot Chaud. :P
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Unfortunately I'll be heading back this Saturday from a fortnight in the forest :(. Pretty jealous of the forecast for next week, it's rained about 50% of the time we've been out.
A few comments on the various above posts:
Petit Bois is a great venue. La Baleine is one of the few problems that climbs as well as it looks. I did it with 3 pads and no spot and fell from the lip move a couple of times and it was fine. I think it looks / feels scarier than it actually is.
Being Easter week the usual venues of Cuvier / Sabots and Franchards will be rammed (both sides of the Cuvier parking looked full as we went past it today) so maybe search out the quieter venues if you want to avoid the crowds.
Although quite far north Beauvais Guinguette seemed like a quieter spot with a kids circuit and 4 other circuits.
Some problem suggestions to take or leave:
Onde de Choc is brilliant and a popular first 7B, although a few mats and a spotter make it nicer
Coup de Tonnerre at la Feuillardiere is a bold star 7A, very amenable at the grade. There is a kids circuit area you walk through to get to it.
If you go to Rocher Canon then Chainon Manquant (avec arete) is a very good problem. Given 7B+ in the guide but maybe more peak 7B ;)
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bastards
you'd better post some motivational stuff about your exploits, because next week I'll be living my dreams through you lot
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+1 for bois road. Not had viper trouble there myself. Well reminded.. I'll go there one day foe sure.
Only petit boos off been dry there for a while. Takes time to get out of its winter shroud??
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Only petit boos off been dry there for a while. Takes time to get out of its winter shroud??
Although I didn't see the whole place the majority of it was clean and well chalked this week, certainly all the popular stuff (Big Jim / La Baleine etc.)
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Excellent. Thanks for the info
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The other thing to worry about are the frelons (hornets) that will be waking up soon, more dangerous than vipers.
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I'll be out and about on either Sunday/ Monday and probably Thursday. Everywhere 'll be rammed, so might as well have a fun weekend.
The Blue/red are much better than the orange at Bois Rond, which is why canche is the safe family bet.
Mind you what with all the dangerous wildlife coming to life this week I might stay indoors.
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Sloper is playing the scare us all to stay at home card...
Never seen those fuck off hornets this early.
You will however be stung to death in the summer, once the snakes release you :jab:
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6 years in the forest and all I've seen is one measely grass snake.
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Sloper always sees loads of stuff that's not there.
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Rocher Guichot was popular with young families. A really nice orange and red circuit and a few nice 7A's such as Jour de Rêve, there's a massive roof with various low 7's in and is home to my first 7B flash in Font, Gorétatov so that must be soft. A long slog takes you up the hill to Rocher du Potala which also had a nice red circuit and you can have a go at La Directe du Surplomb de la Mée whilst you're there! ;)
I'm starting to get jealous now...
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Fuck me you're lazy! First you don't want to carry your pads up to Stanage and now you're describing a 5 min walk on the flat as a long slog up a hill.
Bloody youth of today :)
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Sloper always sees loads of stuff that's not there.
Zulus, thousands of 'em.
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I need a ticklist. Never been to font and never even really gazed at guidebooks or pics for it.
On grit I operate mostly in the low to mid 7s. I'm better on the slab/wall than I am on the roof. On the list so far is:
Gargantoit
Baleine
La Super Prestat (maybe, just maybe)
Cul de chien or whatever that 7a is that everyone does
Marie Rose
Think that's it. In all honesty there are three of us and I'm not going to change everyone's plans to get a set of ticks in. More likely, if we end up in the area it would be good to know what to aim at.
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Rocher Guichot was popular with young families. A really nice orange and red circuit and a few nice 7A's such as Jour de Rêve, there's a massive roof with various low 7's in and is home to my first 7B flash in Font, Gorétatov so that must be soft. A long slog takes you up the hill to Rocher du Potala which also had a nice red circuit and you can have a go at La Directe du Surplomb de la Mée whilst you're there! ;)
I'm starting to get jealous now...
Where this jour de Reve and goretatov??
I love this little place...
Yep.. Potala isnt much of a walk.. For a 4 year old. Some deeperate reds and great rough rock. A known serpant basking area.. Arnt they all??
Will, don't tick list your first visit, I did. Didn't really get the place... flashing duroximane (sp) and the like.... Once you do afew days of red circuitry you kinda get it. Then you start to climb well, and then... The magic happens.
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Ha to be fair, I got lost for a while trying to find surplomb so that obviously effected my memory of the walk.
I have done long walk-ins before though, Sampson's stones, climbed up at Kinder recently. I just don't like walking before climbing. I bet Shauna Coxey gets carried in.
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I need a ticklist. Never been to font and never even really gazed at guidebooks or pics for it.
On grit I operate mostly in the low to mid 7s. I'm better on the slab/wall than I am on the roof. On the list so far is:
Gargantoit
Baleine
La Super Prestat (maybe, just maybe)
Cul de chien or whatever that 7a is that everyone does
Marie Rose
Think that's it. In all honesty there are three of us and I'm not going to change everyone's plans to get a set of ticks in. More likely, if we end up in the area it would be good to know what to aim at.
So looking at your venue list:
Gargantoit is at Gorge du Houx, also good there is Ligne de Mire which is a wall at 7a.
Baleine, Petit Bois. Also there is L'Oeuf (slabby prow) at 7A+ and the 6C highball wall of Big Jim which is brilliant.
Cuvier is a love it or hate it place. I expect it will be busy. If you go it's worth walking up to Cuvier-Bellevue for the classic 6C of Duroxmanie. The direct isn't much harder but earns you 7A+. Close to Duroxmanie are Les Cupules and Atmosphere, two good 7As.
Again, I expect Cul de Chien will be rammed. I've been there before at Easter and you almost had to take a ticket and wait in line for a go.
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Not sure exactly where they are. Jour de Reve is about half way in and the other one is further in, to the left. There are photos on Bleau.info, though not a great angle of Jour de Reve, which is a lovely shaped prow. http://bleau.info/guichot (http://bleau.info/guichot)
I'm guessing it's going to be pretty warm in Font though. I'd head to the obvious shady areas like franchard cuisiniere, parts of Apremont, just anywhere with tree shade. You can go to any crag, open the guidebook and there will be amazing quality climbs at all grades. It's the best. :2thumbsup:
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Sloper always sees loads of stuff that's not there.
Zulus, thousands of 'em.
That's "Zulus! To the North. Thaaasands of 'em."
Everyone forgets they were to the North.
#importantdetails
I'll get my coat.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I wouldn't bother with a tick-list Will. See (or manipulate) where your mates want to go, then scan bleau.info or some topos, you'll find stuff in your range everywhere.
Although if I did have a tick list for low 7s it would include this http://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html
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I wouldn't bother with a tick-list Will. See (or manipulate) where your mates want to go, then scan bleau.info or some topos, you'll find stuff in your range everywhere.
Although if I did have a tick list for low 7s it would include this http://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html
Will's got no chance, I'm driving. Not to cul de chien.
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I wouldn't bother with a tick-list Will. See (or manipulate) where your mates want to go, then scan bleau.info or some topos, you'll find stuff in your range everywhere.
Although if I did have a tick list for low 7s it would include this http://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html
+1 it'll take you at least a couple of days to get switched on to the place (and be humbled by several 5's) and then it'll all start to make sense. Just go with the crowd and think about targets later on (whilst you've been there)...
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Ha to be fair, I got lost for a while trying to find surplomb so that obviously effected my memory of the walk.
I have done long walk-ins before though, Sampson's stones, climbed up at Kinder recently. I just don't like walking before climbing. I bet Shauna Coxey gets carried in.
What tomtom said... And run in!
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In summery, about 6 teams, some en famille and chillin, some gaggin for it. All cool. Nice thread,
I'll will b at some point at merciers, bois rond, elephant and buthiers. You can't miss a 10 year old dented rusted and scratched 6 seater short wheel base vito with a roof and bike rack, with 4 kids that after 48 hours will look like blitz victims devouring vast quantities of French biscuits and crisps. Final I.d is we use is flashed air pads.... Come say hi!!
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i'm going of the weekend (through monday) which means i'll be avoiding:
-bas cuvier
-franchard isatis and cuisiniere
-rocher aux sabots and cul du chien
-apremont
-elephant
looking forward to exploring the further parts of the forrest (again)
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In summery, about 6 teams, some en famille and chillin, some gaggin for it. All cool. Nice thread,
I'll will b at some point at merciers, bois rond, elephant and buthiers. You can't miss a 10 year old dented rusted and scratched 6 seater short wheel base vito with a roof and bike rack, with 4 kids that after 48 hours will look like blitz victims devouring vast quantities of French biscuits and crisps. Final I.d is we use is flashed air pads.... Come say hi!!
Shit, after reading that... I can see me being seriously avoided... At least the kids know proper bouldering courtesy.
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Unlike you then?
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Harsh?...
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I thought about using a smiley but then I thought it was funnier without, sorry!
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:chair:
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:tease:
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Can someone explain what exactly they mean by the Font "3 days to get sqitched onto it" rule. I always thought this was the case only for shit indoor bred climbers with no technique.
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I think you're right for the most part Will. I've never had any problems with Font, in fact I find font grades softer than Peak stuff.
Perhaps you'd struggle if you're no good at topping out.
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I think you're right for the most part Will. I've never had any problems with Font, in fact I find font grades softer than Peak stuff.
Perhaps you'd struggle if you're no good at topping out.
I agree.
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Like anywhere the soft touches are piss and the sandbags are desperate. There's plenty of both.
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i think the grading in font has to be seen in a historical context.
many of the old problems up to 7a can be pretty stiff for the grade.
grades started at 2a and were consolidated through the decennia.
most gyms start their grades at 3 or 4, and allow for quick progress through to 6 's (with a little technique and more power).
so if you go to font climbing 6's in your gym with just a year or two of technique, you're in for a schooling.
if you climb 8's outside and have been climbing outside for 5 or 10 years, you're just gonna have a blast.
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grades started at 2a and were consolidated through the decennia.
Oi. Only Sloper is allowed to use latin
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I will be there from the 16th - if anyone is around, PM me.
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Oi. Only Sloper is allowed to use latin
be nice if he could be compelled to use it.
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tabula rasa, perhaps I'll come back as a lefty and crib heavily from the Satires of Persius.
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the forecast sites used by my mates who live there.... that they trust......
are....
AMAZIN.
just about warm enough for the kids to play out all day, dry, and whilst not baltic... the skin should not get too battered.
we all just ran shit out of excuses...
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the forecast sites used by my mates who live there.... that they trust......
are....
AMAZIN.
just about warm enough for the kids to play out all day, dry, and whilst not baltic... the skin should not get too battered.
we all just ran shit out of excuses...
Punter. A real climber NEVER runs out of excuses.
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Psyche level
(https://dorkforty.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/eleven.jpg)
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:ras:
oh... sorry... you'll be happy with climbing on the classic sandstone boulders of the world... when damp then mate?
what could possibly go wrong...
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Psyche level
(https://dorkforty.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/eleven.jpg)
Smell the Glove.
To everyone going, climb well, have fun, fulfill some ambitions and have a great trip, on y va et bonne vaccances.
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Just to say I've updated the wiki a bit to include info about where we stayed and also updated the info on shopping in the Milly area...
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Just got insurance from Coverwise in case anybody else was looking. 8 quid for the trip and bouldering is covered. I know it's EU but when I looked at what medical bills would be covered in the event of a fuck up it was not at all clear so I've erred on the side of caution and taken out a policy.
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Just got insurance from Coverwise in case anybody else was looking. 8 quid for the trip and bouldering is covered. I know it's EU but when I looked at what medical bills would be covered in the event of a fuck up it was not at all clear so I've erred on the side of caution and taken out a policy.
Very sensible. When I smashed myself up the bill for x-rays, scans, drugs and 2 days in Font hospital would have been over £2k. The insurance company were brilliant and made a very shit situation a lot less shit.
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Worth taking your Blue Eu insurance card as well as the insurer may only pay over & above the EU rate, check those T&C carefully folks, better to do it now than when in serious pain @ the hospital
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Just got insurance from Coverwise in case anybody else was looking. 8 quid for the trip and bouldering is covered. I know it's EU but when I looked at what medical bills would be covered in the event of a fuck up it was not at all clear so I've erred on the side of caution and taken out a policy.
Very sensible. When I smashed myself up the bill for x-rays, scans, drugs and 2 days in Font hospital would have been over £2k. The insurance company were brilliant and made a very shit situation a lot less shit.
L'helicoptere?
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No, Dame Jouanne.
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Just got insurance from Coverwise in case anybody else was looking. 8 quid for the trip and bouldering is covered. I know it's EU but when I looked at what medical bills would be covered in the event of a fuck up it was not at all clear so I've erred on the side of caution and taken out a policy.
Very sensible. When I smashed myself up the bill for x-rays, scans, drugs and 2 days in Font hospital would have been over £2k. The insurance company were brilliant and made a very shit situation a lot less shit.
With snake bite pretty much guaranteed you'd be a fool not to have insurance.