UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: cheque on December 31, 2016, 08:30:38 pm
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Time for, in my opinion, the best thread on UKB. ;D Tell your stories of fun and/ or heroism from 2016 and get everyone else psyched for the coming year.
In the words of 205Chris:
"Wad or punter, vdiff or E9 it doesn't matter, just list your highlights in the usual categories or make up your own"
Top three boulder problems, UK
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new routes/prolems put up
Top Spankings
The previous lists:
Best of 2006 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6675.0.html)
Best of 2007 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8400)
Best of 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10682)
Best of 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13196)
Best of 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16693)
Best of 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19254)
Best of 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21364)
Best of 2013 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23468.0)
Best of 2014 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25227.0.html)
Best of 2015 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26618.0.html)
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[emoji106]
Great lime season for me - Rubicon nemeses of A bigger splash and A bigger tail laid to rest. Decent early grit season - finally did Gorilla Warfare and really enjoyed Late Junction both at Curbar.
Highlight of 2016 was the arrival of this little fella... :)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161231/1d677c37e7139c3128de4c2a792a82ff.jpg)
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Flatworld, Moffatrocity, Paint it Black. Put lots of effort in to all of these and it was well worth it :)
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Crazy Horse, La Memel, Attention Chef d'oeuvre - the best of a short trip to Font in March.
Top three sport routes UK
Arch Enemies and Free Monster. I only did two - my first 7c+ and first 8a :)
Top Spankings
eatswood Traverse. 13 sessions later still no tick... :-\
Happy New Year all!
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best boulder problem - White 28 sit start at 95.2 - a series of lovely moves not too far off the ground
best route - soloed The File at Higgar without warming up or having done any of that type of climbing recently - turned into a bit of an adventure, but still fun
got spanked by everything and everyone
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Top three boulder problems, UK
1. Main Vein (caseg boulder) - a great font like problem in good connies with the lids
2. Jerry's problem (Sheep Pen) - always wanted to do this classic test piece
3. pr0n makes me horny (Porth Ysgo) - got the beta off madams and dispatched in short time!
Top three new problems put up:
1. The price is wrong Bob (Gallt yr Ogof) - an awesome straight up 2 move board problem
2. Yr Morlo sit start (Porth Ty Mawr) - great shouldery and burly problem that I had to try hard on
3. Shipwreck Prow Sit start (Porth Ty Mawr) - snuck in to nab the fun dynamic sitter to Fatneck's super classic stand up prow. People should really go and repeat this, well boss!
Top Spankings
1. Tide of Dreams - miles harder than PMMH. 2 trips there and no cigar.
2. The Wire - got close falling off after the hard moves then developed a dodgy right shoulder around June and sacked the cave off for the rest of the year.
3. My back from gym/golf/poor sleep - back locked up a few weeks ago and has been shit since. Scared to try too hard and can't do deadlifts or squat for the foreseeable! My lower Core is turning to jelly
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Top three UK:
1. Gorilla Warfare. Yes I know it's in a dank pit, but I'd wanted to do it for ages and was proper psyched to flash it.
2. Dancing Queen, Saddle Tor. Class problem that came together unexpectedly soon.
3. The Wave, Bonehill. Classic of its grade on the moor and one I'd struggled with previously. Seemed to be a stepping stone as it's led to me really enjoying Dartmoor granite and climbing more moor classics.
Top three abroad (unsurprisingly all from an Easter Font trip...) :
1. La Joker. Third session over two years and three trips, was so so happy to get up it.
2. Magic Bus. It's clearly not the best problem in the forest but it has great moves and it clearly showed the progression from my previous trip as it felt easy.
3. Indestructible. Fantastic moves again, and set the tone for a really enjoyable week.
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Flipping love this thread!! Really looking forward to reading all the replies as they come trickling in over the next few days!! Hope it's a tricky decision for you all!!
Top 5 UK Boulders
A Northern Soul, Hepburn - absolutely amazing have wanted to do it for years and it didn't disappoint. Should be on everyone's list - it's not that hard!
Psycho, Caley - Again wanted to do this for ages. Very intimidating. Found the initial rockover to be the crux and with some beta the top felt steady but high! Ron is the man!!
Andle Stone Wall, Stanton moor - lovely bit of crimping up a wall
Dancing Queen, Saddle Tor (Dartmoor) - had a great few days out on the granite over Xmas including ticking this problem in a gorgeous day. Absolutely mega climbing on this one.
Trust, Roaches - There's no bloody holds!!!
Top 5 UK Trad routes
Great Wall, Craig y Forwen - Amazing sustained climbing on Leap quality rock, for sure the best quality inland lime I've climbed in the UK. Expected a romp and ended up having to try hard all the way. Fantastic - go do it!
The Cullinan, Lundy - Classy, bold climbing in a wild position. Guidebook cover tick, enough said?
Mean Streak, Stennis Head - one of those moments when everything clicks and you are trying hard without it being a struggle.
Vladimir on the Rocks/Tangerine Dream/Olive Branch, Pembroke - all done during a week in Pembroke all excellent for different reasons. Vladimir was great being in the Leap as per but it was totally unchalked so the lower bold wall felt quests! Tangerine felt like an amazing romp, and olive branch was a tough but amazing hidden littlejohn gem!
Crimson Cruiser, Craig y Clipiau - fantastic steep, bold climbing. Amazing top out!
Top 3 UK Sport routes
Herbie, Malham - great to get this done. Felt like an uphill battle regaining previous highpoint after tooling my arm and not climbing for a month. The surprise at holding the move I always dropped was great.
War Hero, Chapel Head Scar - best 7a I can think of doing in the UK. Almost burnt Nathan off on it having onsighted it as the warm up (great to see him have to really try at the crux!)
War games, Chapel Head - Chapel head is ace!!
Top three routes abroad
Swiss Route/O Sole Mio, Grand Cap - my second Alpine route. Just amazing standing on the summit. Keen to do more on the grand cap with better acclimitisation
Le linceul de Penelope, St Leger - saw a pic of it a couple of years ago flicking through a friend's guide when in Spain. Remember her saying it was hard. Was great flashing it. Beautiful climbing on perfect rock.
Catalonia is not Patagonia, Montsant - was probably battling my way up this, savagely hungover, exactly a year ago! 40m of pump!!
Top Spankings
Main one was falling off The Great Flake at Caley, badly bruising my arm and not being able to climb for a month afterwards. Bit annoying but Looking back like this and the difficulty I have had picking routes shows what an amazing year it has been!
This thread!? Can never keep to the 3 per category rule as some things just can't be excluded!
Get reminiscing!!!
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Top UK blocs
Once Upon A Time In The West, Seathwaite - 3* problem, 5* location.
Les Grand Doigts, Froggatt - one of my all time favourites, such great moves.
The Essence, Torridon - Wild and terrifyingly fantastic.
Malc's, Torridon - You wonder whether it'll live up to all the hype, and it really does.
Domes sitter, Rowtor Rocks - Loved how unique the sequence is.
Top blocs abroad
Man of Cow, Magic - Mega moves on mega rock, one of my most memorable 1st go best go blocs.
Blue Sky's Mine, Magic - Just class.
Sur-Prises, Isatis - Lifetime tick.
Top trad (only trad)
Little Chamonix, Shepherds - full value 1.5hr wait at the first belay. Another lifetime tick.
Top FA (only FA)
New Noise, Highcliffe Nab - Went up to have a look at this on a rainy day and was amazed that it hadn't been done before or tried very much by the look of it. Cleaned it that day and went back for it a few days later. Future NY Moors classic for sure: https://vimeo.com/184641921
Top Spankings
Lager Lager Lager, Earl - Finally did it after throwing my toys out of the pram multiple times over multiple months.
El Pousiff, Isatis - Probably tried this every year since 2006 and eventually did it this year.
Zarzamorra sit, Albarracin - Threw myself at this repeatedly with a very injured shoulder and should have walked away but insisted on keeping going until I hated bouldering, myself and made sure I added a few months of rehab onto my spannered shoulder. Lesson learned...until next time.
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Not a great year, injuries and bad weather being largely responsible, the first year I actually got worse :unsure:.
Top blocs Font
In order of appearence
La Poigne - Cuvier, it's been a long battle, I usually have a couple of goes before going home, found a slightly different way of holding the starting holds, teetered up, nearly fell off every move, hardest thing I did all year, not a great problem but very satisfying
Les Yeux - Apremonts, The first time I've ever decided to climb a specific problem and actually done it in one (long) session, very good. Used completely difference sequence from anyone else I've seen.
L'incommode - Franchard Isatis, this was much more fun than I expected, heel hooks are the future.
Le Sale Caractere de Marie - Beauvais Hameau, lovely low grade techy wall, could have been set by a route setter, all the holds are perfect, but never more than needed. A surprise gem.
Too many spankings to mention.
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Stuey 5 Bellies - did it, then came back and did it again first go next session. What a time to be alive.
Red Baron Roof - great problem pulled out of bag after spending an hour and a half working the wrong beta.
Hitchhikers Sit (RH) - minor personal triumph as I had to raise my 2 finger pocket game considerably for this.
https://vimeo.com/169383622
Should give an honourable mention to doing Northern Soul at Hepburn first go, because it's a knockout problem I've wanted to do for ages, had to turn on the old climbing ability for the top bit. Wouldn't have been possible without meeting up with Gav (cheers for the spot Gav).
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Eclipse, 36.15 Power, Welcome to Tijuana (all Font). Great family holiday.
https://vimeo.com/178514987
Top three trad routes/solos UK Can't think of any.
Top three sport routes UK Don't think I even tied on.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
NW Face of Grand Combin de Valsorey 4181m, Difficile, Swiss Alps. Almost an absolute epic. Hardest thing I've done in the mountains by a long stretch.
Top three new routes/problems put up
Love Is Blind, Burbage (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=26792.0)
Gene Wilder, Dow Crag, 7c-ish - As far as I know this is new - sit start to Red Clover finishing up Gene. Really good!
Top Spankings
Everything on Peak Lime - Staminahumps (fell off 1 move from jug), Weedkiller Footless (tickled the top jug three times), Influx (tickled top hold), In Bulk (almost hung the big move), The Pinch (shit on it, as per). Also went on Vienna twice and hit the break dozens of times and didn't hang it. Fell off going for top jug (which I think I touched?) on Walk On By due to elbowing the crag half way through top move. Actually this might have been 2015, but still.
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Turned 40. First year since 1988 when my main recreational focus wasn't climbing. I started running at the end of January due to frustration with the weather, wanting to just get out and a pulley injury. Stats: 42 outside climbing sessions, compared with 57 in 2015 (despite two trips to Font this year). Only 7 problems 7C and above, compared to 17 in 2015.
Top three boulder probs, Peak
Tetris. I'd wanted to try this for ages. In the end did it over two sessions at the end of July in breezy conditions, when I was supposed to be working in Peru and the family were on holiday in Ibiza. Best 7C on grit for me.
Brad Pit. Ridiculous dabbage in February, then 'not bovered' send in April when I was supposed to be spotting the missus before going for a run. None of the usual angst. Attempted every year for the past 15. What was different this year? Body position of course. Always tried it too front on. Doh.
Working 9 - 5 Standing Start. A couple of summer sessions, then went back on 1 November and finished it by lamp light on a mint evening with some micro beta adjustment. Release the lank.
Top three boulder probs, non Peak
Peckitt Roof, Huntsham. A great session on the way to some friends' 40th. Did this and half a dozen other esoteric numbers.
Texas Hold Em, Trowbarrow. Better and harder than Vitruvian Man.
The Prow, Carrock Fell. Another new venue for me. Velcro connies.
Top three boulder probs, Font
Double Axel. Classic kung fu kick slap. Had failed on it way back when.
Peter Pan. Failed loads in the past, then again at Easter. Did it in 27 degrees (celcius Dave) on an August afternoon having changed beta to left foot high. Font in a nutshell.
L'Etrave. Pulled back on the start but finished it off. Another classic I'd failed on in the past. Spotted by Bart.
Top three fell races
Buttermere-Sailbeck. First Lakeland fell race with a reputation for being one of the toughest AMs. Just a brilliant experience all round.
Holme Moss. 28.5Km, 1130m of ascent. My first AL. Did it so that I could enter Langdale, though I was not fit enough/still recovering from hamstring tear. Toughest thing I've done for a long time.
Langdale Horseshoe. Trained for it. Nailed it. Not quite as fast as I would have liked, and in hindsight I ran a bit too conservatively, but felt strong at the end. It was an absolutely stunning day.
Top three sport routes UK
Beginner's Wall. That is all.
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Nowt. First year in nearly 30 I've not placed a wire? Even sold some of my rack.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Les Artisans. 40th birthday long weekend. A perfect sunny January day in Margalef.
Malasombra. Just keep pulling.
Memorias de una Sepia, Siurana. Work it, wait for the sun to bugger off. Crush. I do like a quick redpoint. My only grade 8 route this year.
Top three new route/prob put up
Nowt
Top spankings
Polish Dave's 8A on 30 degree board - pulled left middle pulley in January. Urggh.
Opium - pulled internal oblique, having pulled lower back two weeks prior to Font, then again on L'Etrave. Probably the low point of the climbing year, having already suffered a pulley and wrist injury as well.
Black Rhino - tore hamstring 'warming up' on a cold, late May evening three days after Buttermere-Sailbeck. OK, maybe this was the low point of the climbing year, except I'd already shifted my focus to running. So it was the low point of the running year! Thought I was going to have to call mountain rescue, but managed to shuffle my way back to the car holding my arse.
Toejam and Earl. Off the pace despite some last-minute training. I guess I would have done this in a session last year, judging by how quickly Dave p*ssed it ; -)
Megalithe - a zillion goes over two early morning sessions.
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Another excellent year, only been in the UK for a month and only bouldered this year so will tweak the categories a bit:
Top 3 boulder problems, New Zealand:
The Tower, Baring Head - A 7 metre overhang with the f6B crux right near the top and likely to result in a shocker of a fall if you blew it. One of the best highballs at a crag packed with them.
Waterworld, Castle Hill - Unlikely beta, cracking setting, and a proper last ditch effort, fighting all the way to the top. Mint.
Andromeda, Castle Hill - Can't think of many problems where the key was to slap downwards to go upwards.
Top 3 boulder problems, USA:
The Wave, Little Rock City - A great bit of climbing on a cool feature at what was my favourite crag in the States.
The Hulk, Bishop - A brilliant ramble up a proper sized boulder.
Tiny Crack, Mount Rubidoux - A tenuous gem at a real surprise of a crag. Conditions were awful and everything nails, but great climbing.
Top 3 boulder problems, UK:
Egg Arete, Cratcliffe - Palming, pressing oddness, can't believe it took me this long to try it!
Joe's Arete, Froggatt - Quality line, quality problem. Another one I should have made an effort on years ago.
Satin, Stanage - Despite an unwarranted amount of moaning, this went quite quickly really. Satisfying and there's still the challenge of the full route...
Top Spankings:
Quite a few in the States, Flagstaff particularly saw me get up fuck all. Top one though has to be back on the grit. Attitude Inspector has to be the first grit f7A in a long while to show me up that badly. Especially when it clearly ain't that difficult!
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Top three boulder problems, UK
I barely bouldered this year - only ticks that come to mind are:
Trust at Guisecliffe - a nice bonus from one of my very few afterwork forays of the year,
and most memorably, Scary Canary at Caley - a half-session's work after getting fed up at the roadside area of falling repeatedly into chest-high fern-shrouded pits - a send born of frustration.
Top three boulder problems, abroad; Top three trad routes/soloes UK; Top three routes abroad (any genre); Top three new routes/prolems put up
Didn't go abroad, do any trad, or put up anything (other than a fingerboard and some pulleys).
Top three sport routes UK Malham / Kilnsey
Stolen - more a relief than anything. After hitting-but-not-holding the break at the end of the crux 8 times (and doing Cold Steal 12 times), I had a bit of a fraught time desperately trying to keep it together and notdrop the very droppable last moves (almost powering out whilst clipping the belay was.... memorable).
Overnite Sensation - brilliant route, so glad to finish it off the session after I fell whilst clipping the chains (as that's the kind of near miss that can lead to horrible self-perpetuating failure).
dead-heat between Last Action Hero and Mighty Fine Ass - two perhaps under-rated routes with really good, sustained and tough climbing.
Top three routes abroad not at Malham or Kilnsey
Slap Happy at Loup Scar - good steep 7a+ in a nice riverside setting (worth the full length soaking I got on the wade out).
Cave Route LH - a long-time ambition ever since I read Fawcett on Rock, my only regret is not making the effort to wear a pair of tiny shiny shorts, red socks, and a fake moustache (that, and not waiting for the repellent upper crack to dry properly.... )
Let the Tripe Increase, Moat Buttress - bouldering on a rope, what's not to like?
Top Spankings
Only unfinished business was Supercool at Gordale and Vorsprung at Yew Cogur - neither of which had enough time spent on to really feel like spankings, more like "reccys"
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Wangatan, Secret Garden, 7B+ A lovely bit of esoterica just off the beaten track. Quality climbing made better by doing it in a session. Not the best landing on my own with two pads. The topout was protected by a pair of wellies on top of the rock beneath.
Harvey Oswald SS, Milestone Buttress Boulders, 7B+ The sitter makes a great problem even better. Thought I'd done it in a few goes but I got over-excited having latched the jug on top and kicked the rock behind as I topped out.....back around. Thankfully it went in a couple more goes.
Two Rails to Dome/Danny's Wall, Fionnphort, Mull, 6B? Couldn't find any info on this one other than a mention and a photo on the other channel of an indirect version at 5+ or so. A brilliant highball with an awkward mantel move at half height, an elephant's arse topout and a distant sloping landing. Can't wait for the 3rd edition of the Scottish bouldering guide.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Having only been abroad once in 2016, I luckily managed a few problems in the Buttermilks on an aid climbing trip.
Iron Man, Buttermilks, 6B Fun sideways rail shuffling. Nice to flash a classic.
Buttermilk Stem ss, Buttermilks, 6B Fun shoulder-busting sitter.
Easy Grit, Buttermilks, 6C Not grit and not easy.
Top three four trad routes/soloes UK
The Arete, New Mills Tors, E3 5b Run-out, slightly suspect rock, steep, big holds, big smile.
Jeffrey's Dyke, Sgurr Mhic Coinnich, Isle of Skye, Diff Utterly classic multipitch with my dad.
Sirplum, Cheedale, E1 5b Finally got round to soloing it. Mega. I had only ever seconded the main pitch before.
That's His, Hartington Dale Roof, E4 6b/7A+ Very esoteric but very satisfying. I went looking for rock in the dale in May 2015 but didn't walk far enough to find this so I missed out on the first ascent. Never mind. Quality highball roof action followed by an XS-grade topout up steep grass. A brilliant experience on my own at 7.30am with two pads and a steep slope of nettles below.
Top three sport winter routes UK
No sport climbing this year so will do winter routes instead (all on Skye).
White Wedding, Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, Isle of Skye, IV One off the dream list. An unrepeated Mick Fowler classic from 1986 which saw its second and third ascents within a few days of each other in February. I made the fourth (and possibly first solo) ascent on 27th February. 100m of ice with the crux at the top, followed by lovely snow runnels to the summit.
Ice Trap, Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, Isle of Skye, III and Kibby's Route, Sgurr Dearg, Isle of Skye, III
More fantastic ice in a brilliant winter season on Skye.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Royal Arches, Yosemite, 5.7 A0 Classic.
The Prow, Washington Column, Yosemite, C2+ My first big wall aid route. Hard work, great fun. Fixed the first pitch, went back down to the valley restaurant for a cheeseburger, then slept at the base. Climbed over two days with a portaledge stop halfway. Topped out in the dark and had a fire and beer to finish. Or so we thought....the 'walk-out' in the morning was harder than the route!
Moonlight Buttress, Zion, Utah, C1 Aid climbed over two days with a portaledge for maximum enjoyment. Would be an impressive free solo due to a lot of it being off-fingers cracks. Props to Salt Lake Eric for doing it aid solo on his third try.
Top three two new routes/problems put up
The Kids Are Alright ss, Houndkirk Tor, 7A Only one new eliminate move added to an existing eliminate but it's a fun problem at a nice little venue.
Crystal Eyes, Burbage North, 7A+ I'm particularly pleased with this one. An obvious gap, not eliminate, fun moves and a spicy finish.
Top Spankings
Cuillin Winter Traverse Been trying to do this with my dad for years. He couldn't go when it was in good nick in 2016 so I went up there on my own but couldn't bring myself to do it without him. White Wedding was an excellent consolation.
Old Friends, Stanage Backed off it in 2010, backed off it in 2016. Pumpy, reachy, hard, brilliant. I don't want to ruin it by padding it so it may be a while till I do it if at all.
The Nose, Yosemite, C2 I like to think we'd have finished it if it wasn't as rammed as The Works on a wet weekend. That many climbers in one place is not my idea of fun.
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Another excellent year, only been in the UK for a month and only bouldered this year so will tweak the categories a bit:
Top 3 boulder problems, New Zealand:
The Tower, Baring Head - A 7 metre overhang with the f6B crux right near the top and likely to result in a shocker of a fall if you blew it. One of the best highballs at a crag packed with them.
Hey where did you stay for Baring head? Might check this place out before the ferry as the rock looks great
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101 days on rock. Not too bad.
Best 3 problems Aus.
Just noticed they are all aretes and all at uncommon crags......
Pickles' Arete V7/8, Lorna Pass, Sydney.
Just fantastic. I think one of the best problems in Sydney. Wild moves on holds that are all surprisingly tough to hold.
This took me 3 sessions whereas Mick's Arete only took 1...
(https://static.thecrag.com/img/x960/2f/68/2f682ab4cd21b8d8683ab19f7151773ed5ba7ae5)
Mick's Arete V7/8, Lara St, Central Coast.
Doesn't look like much but climbs fantastically. Burly as hell too...... And I nearly fell off the top out. Known for being tough for the grade. Good session birthday tick.
(https://static.thecrag.com/img/x960/05/8b/058b5b149341e66193bca7491993f4775a0ec894)
Jungle Cat V6, Mt Kiera, Wollongong.
Great technical moves! That sloper eats all your chalk...
(https://static.thecrag.com/img/x960/54/1b/541bc20ba0dc9790f13c96d61fa3015140804245)
Best 3 problems NZ.
Ode To Joy V1, Quantum Field.
The classic highball. Great moves too!!!
Small Fry V5, Wuthering Heights
Great moves overlooking the other fields. Got a fantastic shot of Monkey Boy on it.
Drop Out V8, Quantum Field.
Hardest send of the trip, not the best problem... Tough little 3 mover (then into the stand start V1....)
Best 2 things put up.
Same as last year, put up more but not noteworthy.
Look To The West ~27 (7c), Big Red, Nowra.
Finally. 44 sessions starting in Sept 2013... Gradewise, I honestly have no idea and it hasn't had a repeat yet, so still have to wait. However the 3 move crux felt V7/8. Work that out...
So fucking glad to top it.
https://vimeo.com/163534254
(https://static.thecrag.com/img/x960/74/58/7458cb9e307716fed6b7b756b29ad0f65909dda2)
Apparently They Can V5/6, Bomaderry Creek, Nowra.
Couple moves into a dyno. Tried it a bunch back in 2013 but couldn't hold the catch. Got back on it and did it 3rd go. Great to finish it off.
(https://static.thecrag.com/img/x960/6c/f7/6cf792aff5ad6128dfc37c16c87d3cab33abd84f)
Top spankings.
Rocket Man V9/10, Frontline, Sydney.
As usual. Actually didn't try it much this year because of mildly fucked fingers all winter.
If The Shoe Fits V8, Frontline, Sydney.
Low end of Rocket Man.... Just kept falling off the cut again.
Think Tank V4, Quantum Field, NZ.
Got very very angry on this.......
Rave Heart V8, HMC, Gramps.
Got a blood blister on my pad. Hard to crimp through that........
All in all, a good year.
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That DWS looks amazing!
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Only bouldered this year - one aim of 2017 is to vary my climbing more.
Top Three UK Ascents
Hitchhiker's - Kyloe In
Dog Eat Dog -Bowden Doors
Mugsy SS - Dumbarton Rock
I didn't get as much done in the UK as I would have liked. Mugsy Sit was a long and bloody battle for me and Dog Eat Dog was a memorable sketchfest.
Top Three Ascents Abroad
Worst Case Scenario - Joe's Valley
Attention Chef d'Oeuvre - Font
Bowling Pin SS - Buttermilks
Making up for a poor domestic showing, I traveled loads last year. Worst Case Scenario was pulled out the bag on my third session, sticking the crux felt miraculous and I was shitting myself on V1 top out for fear of falling (the crowd had already cheered my "success" and tuned away. The pressure is high.) Attention Chef d'Oeuvre was a highlight of a sweaty summer Font trip, enjoyable to work out the tricky beta ground up, and sent above one pad. Bowling Pin felt like a miniature Buttermilks experience, pulling onto a slabby top out and feeling high (it's not really).
Top Spankings
About four sessions on a V7 in Joe's. Scouring Mountain Project for beta but only getting cryptic comments like "easy when you know how" and "I'll let you work out the awesome beta yourself". I never did.
Trying Cortomaltese in 25C. Skiting off slopers 1000 times.
Everything, everything, in Joshua Tree.
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Iain's Roof - B South - Apart from starting in a constricted pit, being eliminate, dabby, scrittley, having a poor landing and being green most of the year this is one of the best problems at the grade out there.
DeExtended Reverse Gorilla Doors - bit of an endurance test I've tried pre-season in previous years. First confirmation that the training plan was working.
Ten Inch Zombies - nails, nails, nails, nails, click, tick..
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Duel Dans La Lune - slim pickings from Font this year, there in May when it rained for three days solid. Had wanted to try Rudeboy for years, with a crucial hold damp this was a decent consolation prize.
Red 4 Les Bossons - Font in a nutshell, but in Chamonix. Just a shame about the drilled starting hold.
Tourne Ta Main - Col Des Montets. Well named.
Top two trad routes/soloes UK
Five Finger Exercise - one that got away (or I was scared of it's reputation) years back. Just Brilliant, hung off the flake not wanting to top out and for it to finish. Would have tried to lace it and fallen off years back.
Perseus - not a great idea in full sun at 25c though. Lesson (re)learned.
Top three five sport routes (redpoint)
Call of Nature / Why Me? - both routes I'd tried a few times previously without success until I signed up for a Lattice assessment & plan. Ended up succeeding on both early in the year.
Obscene Gesture - not for the quality of the climbing, of course, but the circumstances. Just couldn't do the move at the obscenity until it clicked once then I redpointed it about 15 minutes later totally blowing out of my arse for 2/3rds of it. Even forgot to clip the last which would have been close from the top moves. Best fight of the year, pretty much off for move after move after move
Body Machine - Had got the whole route wired but couldn't do the bottom wall and was resigned to take the tick from the break, then an off-the-cuff remark suggesting it was too technical for me spurred me into working it out.
With the start still dry it seemed daft not to try another over that side and it was a bonus to get Proud Whore a few sessions later, hasn't got the history but possibly a better, more balanced route.
Top three sport routes (OS)
Open Gate - remember looking across right at the rockover knowing that if the next holds weren't good I was off.....
Cairn - another that I've been saving for the onsight for years and another close call, nearly came to grief being too complacent before attaining the feature. Added bonus of never having to back to Harpur Hill..
Nice One Masson - this would be *** if the rock was better.
Top 3 spankings disappointments
Mad Dogs - this one wasn't worth the wait, fiddly gear, short lived difficulties and a guide book description that gives everything away just when doubt might get to you.
Croton Oil - Took nearly 30 years to do it and I'll probably get run out of town but I could wait another 30
Cornice - twat only dried as summer hols started and was wet again by the time they'd finished.
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Top three trad routes UK
Godzilla, Rhoscolyn
A Few Dollars More, Old Man of Hoy - Roaring Forties was great too, but this route was cool for the impenetrable fog that had come down that day. It started to clear when we were on top.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NkPNsml0t2s56fcYJ00enV__ApYREKL2sGB5OP7VwsihS05wPxazhStEllyL4OLk_LMV2f0RT6gIvxf5viMRIQEzWRWj4-dsETRJTRE-XgbruIx-SkhaVeZO16v0llguAngHgIe7FJrm5alpvujbDgw5YYfz66tTZRM1c0aXKa7DSjPG21cHtXfpMpca8nAnt0u7kHORMyXkIK65t03zlEK7woO4DGe7PsVWa0tmEemsyEjghNBiXyae9INrWdO1uWqvadpiOEVnnCYqrwo-YRx1VLQMVcFeqHfjBOBz36Y5jUv9bfKnrP0TaoO0olTso88TyJ36Hf5vEmbox15oKZvB0ybZdQuAP_XDHlymd8WPecfA67f1mNfr_xYd6X63onVINEErAlZ08fCfmePcw0xM4B-LqGhXbajX58JppVe99ZaUZ92j1fbt2R9eoURItgFuhT5cQgl3awbsm0VBiTDeniTGItsFfsCMZ8qD9P-tlLD461Hp9G3Ucyc8shlG7aCVTvUmbk0T9i-W4rrRBwqk_vBKiVFCi2xqjD81hg1zfARqtJPPZq1cLNdZ0G2_USjpcsq3RnKm47CZK2xvWndc-wTUXSPA2uVuz0gVTLoCeLMd8MF7rDjc_9ayAlYM1t7UjwJAaCgW6p_vUP743s4YT4qxpmDrjrP4EeGO1A=w786-h589-no)
The Bardsey Ripple, Lleyn. Looks utterly bonkers, climbs very pleasantly.
Top three sport routes UK
Face Race, LPT.
I did nothing of any note on sport this year, a bunch of low 7s that might be worth a star, but failed on anything else good!
Top three routes abroad
Just one trip, but it was a good one! Finally made it to Greenland.
Grmoland, Ketil Pyramid - Some horribly chossy easy bits for 3 pitches at the start led to a fantastic HS traverse. No idea if this had been repeated before.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w0dvwH0V1swSoBxzM3lllFOD9zQuzlNDrczDmEmxZ19FQolxAykA7FsZqScXIUcozEiKpMj3ZWezdAccOJrR4qwN0Qwnrion-nkEpLuwFU646aSfl0qvZdedvnjllbryeTA48p9UY9zWW9Ts3innprSW3n-LLugdkHnSzZXpaG3JujjU5x3ua53qHPp-5QjPj5k5X7t9Njumsts60JViHQap-XFN9KFpiE70cATDA1Ja3G3Jw9q9roqp_jUrdejcRUGfGE9llSBwmdLVtBwSghW8hsC5zuRJBWp5MViXYbpCbRRbQ2nYvEr2hyTwP7W_-B44nRqwG39QTcEdpJ25sfrBHfr0bRB-OorMzcWHrhzqCDZMcp_pJX_SdL3IOB08_wPG4zya7UJJEZoUejTOUm2i8bp3kflt4fifCSkMXsky6Nghvw2eI7ndyQaP-ha27M9MnG9aqrMWyZ9M4ZGkIhkZ31JbE5uw23qn1cJGqVcSIN96XqZDdd0vewHlkgoZ0IWQkLBaN7XKfpR8WkNG9TSiQedZGx-2tJMPfrNmq2TzgGT8cviYdLZb42LyxdbIafAAI7hbqPL9TUXLOwgghKJJyxhGxcUZy1S1CGX7l0YbLGNE11M7LOwyvGs9_m2H96egdVXCFNbxEInvrb5UeN7OjdblRCxAhTzT1JkqqA=w1366-h452-no)
The Bad Man from Bodie, Half Dome, Tasermiut - Our new route. 5 star experience, and the climbing was at just the right level.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/srfm-4gbpTLJU51Ipf21iOs1eLE0ThShvsMUBBD8LQzMRiE4YZk2Ek5poSlOG-zSspzubrytkEa3mM9hnRmyZZhZOMZK6YmA972WYP2Ue4WO6l5_PF1MlRl6iK1cwYeUUiFYE3s5rAzXnidkgvfgbi65jLehNz2gcebdyVSHfBPiJJ_epRw986Juqn5WvheyWKtXoz9Wm86Lu-yQmEpTCBz_mvbPd32NdnoOcTJYF9UMfIOumvF9qG4kAUxcNt-frw-tmi9p9LrHjEqDVyiDZzhEVh-5UG3qlbSPAP6PS3UKUQE1soeqhm68yeKfrmzdm1L3jdD1uHD9X3BrnbByjVmXqVnGLPXVPdnS3r6z0351wrW_Ot0lcGNObpVcXXEvC4eqfQdd7aCZQkfn1FlOq0egHyrLEfiEnFSIMuGHhaitC1UmILIji1yspol21EVT9qiwuFopCDh8zM9fwL64qgrLhON-fRW56nU50NNHT4J2Lgu75JOm0NZ2qUIqzQrEIjAJv52C7IdLvvUFEqt8OjtMBLtx6oXgv7EdAL55pe-McESRlUozXbzn_UrL9EjMRmwsdYQx06ZiELkPbknHY6W6Em8IA9FelkULG9iHj9ACtw7sAeYAwqemHbPdWOLkQ6VbUr67fPTBbGzLDB_4LEbsygd2BchfgDkKt0YG0Q=w991-h589-no)
First 10 pitches of War and Poetry, Ulamertorsuaq. The best pitches of the trip, would have been nice to make it to the Black Heart Ledge, but this was the last day of the trip and we just wanted to have a pleasant time!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LjXxrGdq13XgtgtcQB6BM9dcqeNynfXxofB5X1_A1VSiRwACmoqqBRJ5sAeLyr1TcHjH_5JoCP7u25dJT2ABl_xat9VqETEAI2kGdfKrZcgHQkMu9-plPUuBd7XMfSD8VAha_V7pidQKj9K7TnixhwbeADymcbJ5ulSfz9eMHVRC1lsjWGWXpkDUfu0nwhZSXeme4In_XnpHXTlUG5U2bMSnwNRwWGa7QQwGXu7wW6TK8epSt_yzmMU8ilYYjyk1mUhJv0OEGfKNGMBmbQjm5DWKpnxVMc8dPrmY7jAe4X3FNfOtXy5WfwsXbXYY35-n7Kze-inuji-AcX1-kNaifiKWLN9MKVgRW3bkMUFzRmZc2pWEJrAA7nAUaPd__t2xBgA6RNrGUshTN3OU8kKi-evvKLmt61Py3ceegGHXMEmwUyK-x059absMp94d1kopBEJZZ1Og1Itm0gNCFbvnYK11QLr5xwfmGVWRVcgFEbi3gEMUlazjPWZRXhr95TLdfKVBzX5Ut7YkkMjkVccOV3KKWMlrKLXDJjvWrF5423Mz2wHgbVoZbhsOo_nxAOUBhFDcJ8bgSKs23UgR3v0ougi-b669AOt7UwRikyH4EwwLYVdaz6af2WtgGDy-2k-o6qz_lEKjbRS3OkXMMpZK_fa7mS5sVhey7FDxnYTXRQ=w786-h589-no)
Top Spankings
Night Glue, LPT. After getting Face Race second go, I could barely touch this! A different sort of fitness which I certainly lacked this year.
Non C'e Due Senza Tre, Nalumasortoq. We had high hopes that this might go, even if spread over a few attempts. In reality the walk in destroyed us and we didn't stand a chance. We climbed slowly and bailed before we even got to the hard pitches.
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Foam party 7A+so this is what 7A+ is..
The Lines Slab 6B+!forgotten classic
Harris ' Arete 6A bit of history
Top three trad routes
Only did one. Wendigo at Red walls, it was ace.
Top three new routes/prolems put up
Bertleman Slide 6C+! The end of a long patioing project
53Rd & 3Rd 6A!!the one that I'd previously bravely ran away from.
Troubles braids 6B! A chance find.
Top Spankings
All my ongoing projects..
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Another excellent year, only been in the UK for a month and only bouldered this year so will tweak the categories a bit:
Top 3 boulder problems, New Zealand:
The Tower, Baring Head - A 7 metre overhang with the f6B crux right near the top and likely to result in a shocker of a fall if you blew it. One of the best highballs at a crag packed with them.
Hey where did you stay for Baring head? Might check this place out before the ferry as the rock looks great
I was living in Wellington for a year so it was my local crag. If you want somewhere closer, there's a nice campground at Catchpool Valley (in Rimutaka Forest Park). It's a great crag up to about v6. Let me know if you want any more info/recommendations.
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Top three boulder problems UK, Yorkshire
Dialectics - because it felt good to try really hard
Red Baron Roof - A rare treat of having no idea how to do the hard moves to topping it out 30 minutes later.
One Man and his Dogmas - Good team scenes, good height, scary pop to the top.
Top three boulder problems UK, non-Yorkshire
Bus Stop - I don't know why but I just love the move off the left heel. And it felt surprisingly spicy topping out above two badly placed mats without a spotter
Inaudible Vaudeville - because board style climbing is the best
Stretch and Mantel - no hands position pre stretch(/pop) was excellent
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Le Carnage - because it made my feel like a hero.
Sesame Street, Squamish - techy excellence.
The Fuzz/Mantra/The Bulb/Baba Hari Dass/everything else in Squamish
Top three sport routes UK
Smouldering Globulars of Lust - First of the grade, practically the only sport climbing I did this year and it went first RP.
Top Spankings
Gibb's Cave, Squamish - should have flashed it, then proceeded to waste two half days trying it in bad conditions and not doing it. I still think it's soft for 7B. Why was I climbing it in the sun? I'm such a punter.
Worm World Cave, Squamish - completely shutdown. Maybe stuck the first move 4 times out of 50 goes. Learnt an important lesson about trip fatigue.
Crimpy Roof - Only had one session this year, but it makes the cut because it is the only time my good friend burnt me off on something. I'm just not built for this bloc.
Rubbish Secret Link-up Project - Thought I'd do it in a session, 5/6 sessions later and I'm just as close as I ever was. Estimated grade has slowly crept up, but unfortunately it'll be much easier for the taller folk so will have to keep it low, if I ever do it.
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Plenty of good inspiring stuff from everyone! Keep them coming.
Wil, Greenland looks amazing! Better weather than Sicily anyway...
My 2016 (up to June anyway)
top 3 foreign OS
Ying Yang & Nasenbar 7c, Turkey. Amazing tufas, long, long pitches, great place.
Todos Los Caminos 7b+, Wildside, Sella.
top foreign RP
Medierrano 8a Wildside Sella: so nearly done within an hour or getting on it, but went much better second redpoint.
Chasing the dinosaur 7c, costa blanca: a great anti-my style route, big holds basic, thuggy. great fun.
La putita de millau 8a sella wildside: a bit eliminate and easy for the grade even if you are strict, but great flowy climbing,
Top UK RP
Defcon 3 8a, Gordale
Exit to Eden 7c+, Kilnsey
Top 3 spankings
The Groove 8a+, Malham; although i almost ticked it about an hour before i rendered myself incapable of climbing for a long time.
tirali valent 8a+, wildside sella: i'd like to think it was conditions really, too warm on those crimps! wanted to go back this winter...
s-klasse 7b+, turkey: an OS mega battle, and fell off about 6 feet below the belay on a nearly 40m pitch absolutely spent.
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2016 in a nutshell
Top three boulder problems
Keen Roof 8B
Needed to seriously up my finger strength for this one and so begun a batch of finger boarding in the winter, the first time I actually did what I would consider “training” in over 2 years. 12 board sessions later and my fingers felt like steel and Keen went down in just a couple of sessions. Worked out new knee bar beta on it though which definitely stretches the 8B grade but I’ll take it whilst I still can.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUoyUVGIoEY
Fat Lip 8B
Nice one to Noble on working out the new beta on this Mclure test piece, definitely can’t imagine ever doing this the original way, took a lot of sessions, ended up doing it in less than ideal conditions with a wet starting hold and left me scratching my head at the grade.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8IjvEXUALA
Cornelius 7C
Last year I did Cornelius’ neighbouring route Thumbalina which also made the top three list and this year I went back for the real event, took 3 sessions in total (1 last year 2 this year) absolutely terrific (terrific breaks down into terrifying and fantastic which is an apt description of the climb I feel) This is an absolute must do climb on anyone’s list in the world, truly world class.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bBHDi3CKjc
Honourable mentions
Amarna, Panopticon(only just done on new years day!),walk on by, pump up the Valium(can’t believe this isn’t more popular I thought it was brilliant), 36chambers sit.
Top three sport routes
Kabaah 8c+
Brilliant early Christmas present, the tor delivers again! This season is flippin’ unreal Its still dry in January! This has got to be one of the best feelings I’ve ever had from doing any climb, totally euphoric.
www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/hadyn-jones-keeps-his-psyche-and-gets-kaabah.html
Sean’s roof 8b+
5 years ago I rocked up at Blackwell dale and there was a chap there climbing Sean’s roof, it just seemed mind bogglingly impossible at the time having only ever climbed 7b and was one of the first hard things I ever saw someone climbing in person. Since then this has been on my todo list and this year I was able to succeed being spurred on my Polish Dave to try it.
Ape Index 8b+
Really happy to do this one, a Steve McClure test piece that remained unrepeated for 15 years then in 1 day it gains 2 ascents from myself and Jon Clark, I foresee it becoming a popular 8b+ now in the future.
www.vimeo.com/181916188
Honourable mentions
8b+: Mecca(No knees!)
8b: Rage, Predator, Barbarossity, Waddage, giant haystacks, magnetic fields, Austrian oak, zeke the freak, body builder, Devonshire arms(nice to do this one as it was on my top spankings list last year)
8a+: Kumquat, Mid ledge spread, Connect 5, albatrossity, G.B.H, In Brine, Overnight Sensation, Tollbar, Energy vampire, fowl play
8a: zoolook, the spider, the crucifixion(much better than the prow),
7c+: the maximum, Toys for the Boys, A vision of loveliness, Yoot’s Manoeuvre,
Top New routes
The White Knuckle Shuffle 8a+
Wow, what a find, as soon as I saw it I Knew I had to inspect it, a completely unclimbed blank section of wall in the peak surely I must be dreaming! There can’t be many projects of this quality left in the peak. As soon as I was done with Kumquat I already knew I would be back and convinced Jon Clark to help me bolt it so back we both went and my best creation to date was born! The rock was of impeccable quality with only one hold in an 18meter section breaking this is surly unheard of for peak lime! Destined to be 8b (harder than kumquat) but after the hold broke, I glued it back on as similar as possible which I managed except for one difference there was now a thumb catch which made a fair amount of difference to the hold. Down to 8a+ it went and probably for the better, it will be even more popular!
www.vimeo.com/197386326
Tributary 8a+
My only other first ascent this year (not counting boulder links) it provides a nice counter diagonal to that was the river. A more sustained version of rapid city, basically does a much harder start to get to the top of rapid city, which you must then do. Beefy but luckily the start boulder and finish boulder is split by a large jug which makes the grade questionable.
Top training links
Staminaboys (original) 8c+/9a
The big link, did this thing twice this year, once with the reach method then returned to finish via the proper drop down method. Was so sure it was 9a right up until I did it and it went without much fuss, again leaving me scratching my head. Either way took a further 10 sessions on top of doing the reach method before succeeding on this McClure test piece.
Ben’s into mecca 8c
Bad skin called for more training links and this was a perfect one, good holds all the way no rat crimps in sight! Felt pretty steady.
Top spankings
Mutton bustin’
Fuck this thing to eternal hell. Really hurt my ankle in the starting heel toe cam and dropped the finish 3 times in one session then became wet.
Make it funky
Hmm can’t get that annoyed with this one as the climbing is really good, it was my own stupid fault for not using the anti-hydral correctly ended up giving me about 7 splits and after 7 sessions on it still hadn’t succeeded, despite the fact it should have gone on the third. Definitely will be back to finish it though ( At the time of writing, 2nd Jan , I looked across to it and couldn’t believe my eyes! It is dry potentially may still happen this season!)
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Definitely best thread, love reading through everyone year, inspiring stuff!
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Mixed year with some good highlights but not much depth.
Top three boulder problems, UK
West Side Story, Flatworld and Tetris all within a week. Special.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Pensees Cachees, L'Angle Ben's and Jet Set.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
N/A
Top three sport routes UK
Chimes of Freedom for the feeling of being on the big boys wall at the tor, Orange Sunshine cos it's good and Arch Enemies cos it's even better.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Mostly unsuccessful except for a great arete at Saint-Pancrasse
Top three new routes/problems put up
N/A
Top Spankings
Great White - 7c my arse
Careless Torque - HARD
Trying to play 5-aside without any fitness
Everything in France
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Top three boulder problems
I actually did three boulder problems this year!
- Midnight Lightning, Yosemite Camp 4. Fun climbing on good holds. Psyched out on the mantle above a gigantic sea of pads during a mass siege. Went back by myself the next day and managed to borrow a pad and two spotters. With some positive encouragements the mantle turned out to be completely trivial and by far the easiest move on the entire problem
- Blue Suede Shoes, Yosemite Camp 4. A fun little slab. Missed the flash/on-sight by quite a bit.
- Casual Moves, Jonsberget (Sweden). Close to my parents place. Climbed really well. Good climbing is where you find it.
Top three trad routes/solos
- Globeros en Alaska, Pared del Catalonia, Montrebei. I'm pretty sure that this is the only route I used gear on this year, even though the crux-pitch is almost entirely on fixed pro. At least the only route with removeable pro I actually completed. Full write up http://steepground.blogspot.fr/2016/03/globeros-en-alaska-7a6b-250m-mont-rebei.html
- I also had a fiasco on Astroman, getting held up by the slowest team ever. We were quite close to start an international incident until I showed some good-will and rescued them after their leader forget to untie the knot before pulling the rope when bailing/rapping off.
Top three sport routes France
- Les ailes du désir, Gorge du Tarn. World-heritage route.
- Démon, Verdon. Not in the best of styles, but still, a fantastic route. Well worth doing!
- Quand le blues l'emporte sur la raison, Saint Léger. Actually not that good, but since I've failed on almost anything good I tried this year...
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
- Dimensiones Paralelas, the new cave above Hermida, Spain. Fantastic double tufa rails that goes on forever and ever. Power screaming/whimpering on every move from the good rest to the top. Totally a muerte. Could not climb anything else that day. Possibly the best line I've seen on limestone in this grade (7c+).
Top Spankings
- La Renverse, Las Devotas, Bielsa. Was too pumped to clip the last draw, got through the crux but fell off when I broke a foothold just below the anchor. Then spend two days more without getting back to my high point (admittedly in >35°C temps...).
- L'Adrecador, Terradets. Fell several times on the very top of this surprisingly hard route, before changing to an easier sequence. The next go I fell lower down with the rope in my hand, just about to clip the bolt above the one everyone skips. Fell backwards upside-down and the rope twisted around the neck. Was still bleeding from my neck on to my shirt the next day when giving classes.
- Al Andalous, Saint Léger. Fell with my hand on the finishing jug on the last go on the last climbing day of 2016, the day before new years eve. A fitting end to a year full of disappointments
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Tangled Up In Blue - Dove Lowe
Blackstone's Best - Blackstone Edge
The Eternal - Wicken Lowe
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Can't pick three problems but had the best trip I've ever had to Font and Chironico in April - superb weather, great company and whilst I didn't climb anything hard or noteworthy, I climbed a LOT and had a brilliant time!
Top three sport routes UK
Sport routes!!?!
Top three new routes/problems put up
Shipwreck Prow - Porth Ty Mawr - boss rock, great situation and one of the best problems I've done anywhere! Real privilege to get the FA and a very entertaining experience to find and develop the climbing here.
Porth Dinllaen - various - great to finally climb here with other people and realise that it's not shite!
Top Spankings
Brian Spray - again!
Life ticks
Finally properly gave up smoking!!
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Top three boulder problems:
Only did a few at Ysgo. Lovely day out though.
Top three fell races:
Black Combe. English Championship race that saw a big crowd get very lost in dense clag to the sound of Benny Hill and a cowbell. Did an extra 1000ft of climbing as a result. Painful but fun.
Anniversary Waltz. An awesome horseshoe that I gave a full recce beforehand. Will try the Teenager with Altitude this year I think for the longer tick.
Yr Aran. South Snowdonia is such a beautiful landscape and very quiet. A proper local 'out and back' race with an amazing fast descent.
Best mountain day out:
The Autumn recce of the Pen Yr Ole Wen/Carneddau leg of the Paddy Buckley Round midweek. Not a person in sight and certainly one of my favourite runs anywhere.
Life ticks:
Formed a new drinks business with two peers that launches this year. Really exciting and can't wait to announce it.
Visited the remote Exuma Islands in The Bahamas and saw some pigs on an island beach there. Really chilled.
Managed to do a 165 mile two day bike ride from Wirral to Penrith with work. Wasn't at all sure I could do such distances and gave me the confidence to try some longer stuff this year.
Bests to you all for 2017, some awesome achievements by all here.
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Mine are all easy as I put climbing to one side to move and make a film this year. I wouldn't advise doing that if you want to get or stay good. I have had so much fun being shit though!
Top three boulder problems, UK
Remergence, Burbage North April was my busiest climbing month as it was after I moved but before I started shooting and the daylight/ temperature relationship was great for evening grit. I'd never bouldered at Remergence before and did the classic problem pretty quickly before moving on. On Christmas Eve I had to totally battle to repeat it. Both times felt great.
The Elf Direct, Kyloe-in-the-Woods This was only last week. The previous time I went to Kyloe in I was injured and there was nothing I could do with a knackered finger but I loved the place. This time I could climb and did this with a spot from some geordies. It's pretty high and all the holds are better than you think they'll be. ;D
G Thang, Gardoms Going off the guidebook grade this is the hardest problem I'd done for 18 months, but I think it's more 6B than 6B+ if you're my height. Anyway, I did this on my birthday, which was that amazing inversion day in late November, with a bunch of UKBers and my mate since childhood at the crag. Just went for a walk after.
Top boulder problem, abroad
"Problem 8", Glendalough In July I was so psyched to visit Ireland for the first time and do some rock climbing for the first time in a month at the beautiful-looking Glendalough. I hadn't bargained on it being the hottest day of the year and I'd forgotten that bouldering is actually really quite hard. I was so pleased to find this north-facing slab that was the only problem harder than 4 that I got up.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Titanic, Stanage This is a VS at an obscure bit of Stanage I'd never climbed at before. It's really good. I honestly found this as hard and as satisfying as when I was first leading VS.
Scoop Face, Castle Naze Two months after I first started climbing I ended up at Castle Naze to climb on rock for the first time since I used to toprope in the scouts. I clearly remember thinking that when I could lead this that I would be a brilliant climber. This September I led it in anything but the style of a brilliant climber and thoroughly enjoyed it. Mad gear placement.
Bond Street, Millstone The only real forward climbing progress I made this year was getting to grips with continuous cracks. I've always loved jamming but always hated looking up and seeing just the crack. I was so sure I wasn't going to succeed on this and when I got to the top I was the happiest I can remember being at the top of an HVS for years.
Top three dangerous seacliffs I got my poor acrophobic girlfriend to teeter across the top of
It's only when you see a normal, sensible person doing these things that you realise how sketchy they are.
Fisherman's Steps, St. Bees Sandy chain-trusting. Can't believe she's still speaking to me to be honest.
Promotory adjacent to Skomar Arch, Pembroke Three 8th-grade leaders helped Rache get back up from this.
The Castle, Pembroke Would probably have been fine if it wasn't for the helicopter downdraught.
Top Spankings
God this is hard to narrow down.
Flying Buttress Direct, Stanage "Let's warm up on this" says my partner, before vanishing over the lip in his trainers. I fall off 3 times seconding. "Go round and do a training lap on a toppy". Five falls. Flash pump. Nausea. Done for the day. Pride compels me to mention that I have led this before.
Breakfast, Burbage West I am ludicously inflexible all of a sudden. I can't swing my leg anywhere near the heel-toe. "Don't give up Mike, have another go" says Guy. How supportive the Sheffield scene is. "I love seeing tall people fail on this". :lol:
Technical Master, Millstone I've been trying this problem on and off for more than 6 years now: you've never seen someone have a problem they've never topped out so wired. Even now I can get to the flatty my new-found talent of getting pumped on boulder problems stops me. Last session was a disaster- damp arete in the morning, no skin left on return in the evening. Honourable mention- Conan the Librarian, Mother Cap which I always try on the same day, also have wired but have yet to top it out. On the aforementioned session I got to the last break 10 times in a row but my weeping skin spat me off it every time.
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Best boulder in UK: Green Dot Traverse 7B
Best boulder abroad: Le Toit at Cul De Chien 7A
Top routes (didnt go abroad):
Drugstore Cowboy 8b - piece of shit, but look at me I did 8b
Stanton Warriors 8a+ - much fun, plus is 8b in new guide, look how brave and humble I am
Mustard Custard 7c+ - I like slab climbing, and this is really good
Oesophagus E1 - i always wanted to do this
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Top three boulder problems:
Only did a few at Ysgo. Lovely day out though.
Fatneck's fabulous fortieth bash at Ysgo was probably my best of 2016, climbing wise. But in the autumn I had some beautiful solitary days exploring the utterly obscure Big Rock Park near my new home - graffiti everywhere, eliminates - but like JWI said above, good climbing is where you find it. I really enjoyed those days.
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Top
three nine boulder problems, UK
Way too much good stuff this year to cut it down to three:
Carnage - Hartland. SW classic. Had left it way too long before trying.
AWOL Apprentice - Tintagel. Dirty finger jam but still class.
Paul O Grady SS - Ogwen. First day of N Wales trip went straight here - didn't dissapoint.
The Pinch - Sheep Pen. Wanted to do this for over a decade, great to be out with a mate from way way back for the first time in years too. Fantastic move, just a shame it's over so soon.
Incredible Shaking Man SS - Ysgo. Could have been pretty much anything at Ysgo to be honest, loved it all. Almost plumped for Higginsons Scar instead. What a place.
Wonderwall - Crafnant. Had a random pic of this as my desktop background years ago - so chuffed to go and do it.
China in Your Hands - Gardoms. Most unlikely move of the year for sure.
Giza - Burbage. Just stupidly good connies that day.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
All from a first trip to Magic in September:
Grit de Lux - Magic. One of my favourite things ever, let alone this year.
Du Cote de Seshuan - Magic. Hardest thing I did this year, great process, running out of time and beans on final day, such a satisfying move to end the problem and trip on - just gave me time to jump in the river before the long drive to font too.
Beach Mantle - Magic. what a move. Toss up between this and Blue Sky's Mine which is also mega.
Top three sport routes UK
Actually did some routes this year, probably only one that really deserves a mention though:
Shadow Walker - Cheddar. So happy with this, great climbing and position in the eye, felt like I had to learn how to pace and rest (unlike the other hard routes I've managed, which I just sprint through). Hardest route I've ever done, after barely tying on for 3 years.
Honourable mentions for:
Academic - Avon. first sport route since 2011 I think, and second grade 8 ~13yrs after my first. Great confidence boost.
A Day Called Zero - Cheddar. Pure bouldering on a rope.
Top three new routes/problems put up
Only one worth mentioning, and I stole it (accidentally!)(sorry Remus!)
Scales - Neath Abbey. Not too much to look at, but really nice movement and unlike anything else here. Shame it hasn't seen any attention since I think.
Top Spankings
Hunters Roof - Huntsham. Not been on it much since the summer, but still no joy on the crux. Need to train up the biceps for the undercuts.
All the 8's I tried in Magic...
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Top 3 trad routes/solos:
I've only done a handful of trad routes this year, and the only thing I remember particularly was doing King Kong at Wintour's Leap with a rack that had a Friend 2.5 as the biggest bit of gear...
Top 3 UK sport routes:
Bullet, Kilnsey - surprise RP success having been struggling to get up Man With A Gun, the first time I got up that I went to the top :-)
Encore! Magnifique!, The Gap - local classic and great to climb somewhere new
Start to High Break, Longridge (well it isn't a boulder problem is it?) - so pumpy, so satisfying, even with my sequence including bat-hangs and kneebars (ended up doing this quite a few times trying the full traverse - see spankings...)
Top 3 routes abroad:
The Beast, Waterval Boven - this massive wall has amazing Euro style stamina cranking
Monster, Waterval Boven - see above
La corva de la felicitat, Margalef - pure climbing pleasure
Top 3 boulder problems:
Jerry's Roof, The Pass - in a session having faffed about on it not years ago and not being able to do the reach/cut-loose Broken Direct, The Cave - only significant cave tick of the year - lots of technique to overcome the difficulties (not 8A+ this way!)
Bend of the Rainbow, Longridge - felt unlikely, then suddenly remembered how to climb on steep slopers and it all just clicked
Top 3 new routes (I finally got round to placing a belay rather than just doing link-ups/extensions!):
Almost Familiar, The Cave (7c with Doylo & Adam's beta) - new sport route extension to Parisella's original https://vimeo.com/153706255 (https://vimeo.com/153706255)
Enter Sandman, The Gap (7c+?) - good fun extension to an existing 7b+ http://allysmithblog.blogspot.nl/2016/08/another-newbie-enter-sandman-7c-gap.html (http://allysmithblog.blogspot.nl/2016/08/another-newbie-enter-sandman-7c-gap.html)
Baba O'Riley, Malham (8a?) - chuffed I got to add my own route to one of my favourite crags. I kept falling off my 8a+ sequence trying to stand up over the lip, eventually i re-worked a subtly different foot sequence, and it went down next go http://allysmithblog.blogspot.nl/2016/08/a-blog-week-until-im-up-to-date-post-2.html (http://allysmithblog.blogspot.nl/2016/08/a-blog-week-until-im-up-to-date-post-2.html)
Top 3 4 :whip:'s:
The Traverse of the Gods, Longridge - multiple sessions where i'd get to the end of high-break, fall off, then be too knackered to have another quality go
Devil's gorge headwall project - finally got through the crux crimp pull through the lip and on to the headwall proper, then dropped the last move to the top of the crag. Then it was too dark for evening sessions and i never got back on it >:(
Jack of all Trades, Boven - last day redpoint to the very last hard move and a huge whipper - very unlikely to go back and get it done now :(
Hidrophobia, Montsant - NYD 2016 - fell above the final bolt so pumped I took 2 days to recover!
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I've had quite a crap year bouldering but made up for it by trying hard (for me) on trad and getting some good ticks. There were very very few problems (none?) that I did in the UK where I got that great rush of joy at topping out.
Top Boulder Problems (UK)
Picnic Sarcastic RH Sit, Bowderstone - gets 7B but actually 7A+. Great moves.
Handy Andy's, Earl, 7A+ - Wanted to do this for ages.
Top Boulder Problems (Abroad) - Font was definitely my bouldering highlight of the year. I didn't try anything hard, just chugged along steadily between 6C and 7A+ and did loads of great problems in good company. Nailed the tactics and didn't pour time into lost causes or shit problems.
L'Angle Ben's, Isatis, 7A+ - Squeaked my boots and the footholds were as jugs. Floated up to the top like a bird on the breeze. A perfect feeling. Best problem, if not the hardest, of the year by far.
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame, Roche aux Sabots, 7A - Epic.
Le Toit du Cul du Chien - 7A - People talk trash about this problem and it doesn't deserve it. If you go before the knobhead student crewz arrive with their Bluetooth speakers then it's great.
Charcuterie, Cuvier, 7A
Duroxmanie, Cuvier, 6C - Wow!
The little bit of the orange circuit I did at Apremont. Beautiful. Committing scrambling above crap landings. Really imaginative use of rock that would be overlooked in the UK. Teetering along ledges, groping around corners to discover hidden jugs, it's just amazing. Really want to go back and do the whole thing.
Memoire d'Outre Tombe, Rocher Fin, 7A - looks a bit dabby but really nice roof climbing.
Boule de Gnôme, Rocher Fin, 7A - beautiful feature. Climbed with a really nice group of people from Cologne.
Top Problems Put Up
Secret Service, Burn Stones, 6C
English Rose, Twin Towers, 7A+ - Totally morpho dyno problem. Go go gadget arms. A fun highball finish.
Plummet Earth, High Crags, 7A (soft) - One of the best of it's kind in the area at this grade?
Top Trad Routes - did loads more trad than usual. Joined the Leeds Mountaineering Club and had some great laughs at the Tuesday night trad session. Friendly bunch of people and good craic on the weekend trips.
The Padder, Eastby, E1 - Climbed with an old friend who doesn't climb much now. Did it in really really stiff shoes. Terrifying!
Stingray, Beyond the Azimuth, Carreg y Barcud, E1 - Maybe coming to a cinema near you. Really enjoyed these two. Had to work really hard on BtA fighting shit connies. Really absorbing experience. Pumpy one moment and balancy the next.
Age Concern, Craig Caerfai, E2/3 - Not the best route but a great experience. Belayer got very wet feet.
'Arries 'Ook, Almscliff, E4
Zukator/Grasper Connection, Tremadog, E2 - Led the Grasper pitch. Wanted to do this for ages. Amazing climbing up an amazing feature.
Joker's Wall, Brimham, E4 - Definitely the hardest route I did all year. Really happy to onsight it. One of those very rare occasions where you come a hair's breadth from failure but JUST scrape through. Nearly fell off the first bit moving right to the rest. Got VERY pumped going back left. Hadn't placed any gear on the left hand side so was looking at a really nasty swinging ground scraper. Just managed to get some gear in. Double fist jams, heel-toe by your hands, reach round and undercut, slap hand over rounded top AND FIGHT LIKE FUCK! SCREEEEEEEEEAAAAAAMM!! And get into the final niche. Think it's all over. Realise it isn't. Place more gear and begin the ballet dancer's finish. Delicately pulling on undercuts and smearing onto the steep slab. Final cam in a hollow hollow flake. Top out. Relief!
Everything we did on Scafell, which was The Yellow Slab (HVS), Ichabod (E2), Saxon (E2) - The last pitch of The Yellow Slab is horrific. It's a 20m traverse across a concave slab. You start by placing some gear next to the belay. You then pass a Damoclean block which some nutters have put gear in the past. No fucking thank you. Carry on traversing. Teeter around off balance. Place some RP's that you couldn't hang your coat off. Continue traversing. Wonder if you're off route. Continue traversing, now crying probably. Not sure where they bury the HVS leaders who try this. Finally place a blind wire around a corner. By the time you traverse around to it and can inspect it, you're in reach of the final belay. HORRIFIC!
Ichabod - I didn't lead this but I reckon it's a very strong contender for best single pitch in the country. A huge, intimidating pitch.
Saxon - I ended up leading every pitch on this. The middle pitch is obviously the money-pitch. One moment you're doing all this bold, delicate, searching; the next moment you're confronted with a nails crux move (6a, surely!) at which point the angle changes and it instantly becomes a crack climbing pump fest. Sprint finish up one of the finest, most historic walls in England. Fucking amazing.
Carnage, Malham, E2 - Didn't lead any of it but had a great time just being up there as a team of three. Good craic.
Dream of White Horses - no further information needed.
Brazen Buttress, Mother Carey's, E2 - Epic. It just keeps coming. I didn't lead this one but really enjoyed the climbing.
Strapadictomy, Froggatt, E4/5 - Ground up scenes with a small crew. First go up I placed the gear on the left and then fucked up by doing the press out to the flake before placing the wire. Jumped off. 2nd go up, gear now in-situ, got into The Bancroft Position on the flake and was so overcome with excitement about the climb and the position that I fell off! "OH MY GOD! I'M ON THE FLAKE!". Done third go.
Best DWS
Giant Farts, Barrel Zawn, 7a - The holds are properly invisible from below. Fortunately I had a local activist leaning over the top shouting beta at me. Technical goodness.
The Might of the Stalactite, Cala Barques, 7a - EPIC!
Barrel Traverse, Barrel Zawn, 6b+ - First DWS. Nobody on the crag except for my non-climbing brother in law and I. Was going to do one of the easy ones to get started but saw the breaks leading away into the dark of the zawn and couldn't resist. An experience not to be forgotten.
Didn't do any particularly memorable sport routes this year.
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Boulder Probs Peak
Scratches 7C+ – Ramshaw
One of those lines spotted and cleaned, then slightly regretted showing to a better climber. Good to go back and get the repeat. Great techy sloper mauling.
Back Street Mime Artist 8A – Burb North
A tribute to Iain Farr’s epic patio skills. Great moves. Wow, that’s two bum scraping lips travs on my list already!
Blob Fish 7A – Kinder Pagoda
The consolation prize after we’d lugged all the pads up to Upper Edale Rocks to try the big roof LGP, only for the key foothold to snap off. The weirdest set of moves I did all year, classic moorland ball mauling.
Boulder Probs rest of UK
Heathen Chemistry 7C+ – Forest Rock
Best of a good bunch done with Rocketman Rob Smith at this Leicester slate oddity. Superb precision groove climbing on low friction smears and sidepulls all facing the same way.
Tasty Jones 7A+ – Talfarach
Best prob done on Fatneck’s birthday weekender. Good scenes. Totally awesome problem which gets a pretty trivial write up on the topo. Best prob I’ve done on the Lleyn for sure.
Black Mamba 7B – Barmouth Quarry
Fine bit of mid-wales esoterica while the rest of the family did the beach thing. Slaty prow guppying.
Boulder Probs abroad
Anglophobie SS 7A – Reconnaissance, Font
Best prob done on a week where the conditions were almost relentlessly grim.
Trad/solo UK
Road Runner E6 6b – High Tor
The sportier end of trad and an old guide cover tick. Cheers Shark.
Approaching E3 5c – Chee Tor
Another highlight of the vert shortlived 2016 trad comeback.
Xebecs E1 5b – Barmouth Slabs
Best of a good solo session. Stunning views.
New Probs Peak
Proper Gander 7C – Roaches
Best new prob of the year for sure. Absolutely made up to find something of this calibre within spitting distance of some of the most popular bouldering in the peak. Brilliant and varied climbing on amazing holds and a heart in mouth topout. The Roaches were kind in 2016, this, The Real Thin 7A, Quite Something Else 7A+, Leathered 7B+, Mixed Beast Feast 7A+, Ursa Major 7A+, Atomic Dustbin 7A+….
Pugnax 7A – Laddow
A toss-up between this and Animal Grace at the same crag. Two totally different good probs together make the long walk in well worth it.
Village Green SS 7A+– Wimberry
A bit of solo summer gritstone. Fine arete moves into a neglected JD highball.
New probs non-Peak
Scotch Aig 7A+ – Sheild Aig
Torridon was mostly too hot and midgy for bouldering, so finding this black basalt beast on a beautiful beach near the camping was a bit of a saviour.
Bleau’s ‘ard 7A - Reconnaissance, Font
First proper FA in font. Sweet little prow. Shame the rest of the week was a wash out.
Veni, Vidi, Vici 7A+ – Round Hill
Nice to do something marked as a proj in the guide, even if it doesn’t turn out to be too hard. Couldn’t resist the name, given the Roman theme.
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Trackside - tried years ago when I first started with my dad and nearly did it. Went back years later and only just did it!
Jokers wall traverse - Pump fest!
Glen campus low traverse - Personal one session battle. Required all I had to do the last move!
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Iron man - buttermilks - On my own at the buttermilks first thing. Undeniable crablike line
Heavenly path - happies - Saw others climb it in raging sun. Too high. Days later, the psyche and connies were good and it felt heavenly...
Boule de gnome - font - At the end of my best day in font. Loved every move.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Resolution direct - saw others on it last time I was at gogarth, thought it looked ace. Got on it!
Cenotaph corner - Wasn't planning on getting on it, but it was dry and didnt have anyone on. Love the long pitches, though the idea scares me! Ace day.
Strapadictomy - Ground up on other peoples gear. No expectations but got up eventually! Good to try hard with a good crowd
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
The nose - Aid fest and slow. First big wall. What an adventure! King swing was incredible, best bit of the whole trip.
Supercrack - Nearly fell off the start. Cruising up the crack was dreamy. Didnt dare get on it last time I was in the creek!
Warm up handcrack/incredible hand crack - Glorious gold camalots. Basement crack abuse turned these into the most fun i've had with a rope on.
Scarface - using some good tactics, this felt steady!
Top three new routes/prolems put up
The sea is coming - porth dafarch - New routing with partner new to climbing. Route was actually not terrible!
From utah with love -Happies - Dirty sandy steep crack. In the shade so good for mid day faff. Shame it was escapable. Awesome location though
Top Spankings
Buttermilks - everything above v4 felt impossible. Nive place to fall off though!
Green traverse - shipley - I can get to the end. I can sometimes do the last bit. One day I will do both....
Wigglin worm - Indian creek - Don't let those "wide boyz" fool you. 5.11 offwidth is desperate. Fun and incredibly hard.
Think pink - Indian creek - on a tommy top rope, camalot 3s and 4s with a steep start. My logbook says even powerscreams didnt help
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Boule de gnome - font - At the end of my best day in font. Loved every move.
Dat was dead good dat wa'n't it?
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/438/31702685690_aeffddf4dd_z.jpg)
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A focus on training for a particular fell race meant I did a lot less climbing than in recent years. Wasn't feeling the love for busy sport crags, so mainly ended up exploring some moorland grit alongside a bit of trad bumbling.
Top three boulder problems, UK
Cockerel Wall, Ash Head - Best of a good bunch of problems from a day out at Ash Head. Poor conditions meant the harder problems weren't worth trying, but the variety of easier problems more than made up for it.
Weight Watcher, Sheep Pen - 40th birthday weekend with some mates in North Wales. Not great weather, but managed to fit in sessions at Ysgo, Sheep Pen and The Pass (x2). Timed to perfection as, not long after completing it, the wind disappeared, the midges came out and we ran away.
Aurora, Roova - Birthday tick after a night at the Wensleydale Heifer near Leyburn (honorary mention as the best steak of the year). Limited number of problems at the crag, but the good ones are real gems.
Top three trad routes, UK
Magnetic North, Shepherds - A really enjoyable link-up on North Buttress, with the best bits of a number of routes (most of which I'd done previously) to give quite a sustained outing with a lot of good climbing.
Captain Reliable, Staden - Somehow missed this (along with Liquid Courage, Joint Effort and a few others) when I had a few visits some years ago, so had the chance to fill some gaps in the guide. This was the best of the bunch for me.
Sunny Goodge Street, Chee Tor - Another one I'd missed when I was a regular at Chee Tor. Taking advantage of the Chee Tor clean-up (although clean is probably a relative term in this case!).
Top three sport routes, UK
Think I tied on twice and didn't do anything of note
Top three sport routes, abroad
Festa Fotre, Margalef - Great consolation after waiting for a gap to appear in the endless stream of people on Magic Festival and Corva de la Felicitat. Threw my toys out of the pram, went back to Finestre, quick bolt-to-bolt then redpoint. Probably more memorable because the wild slapping up the final tufas, having not worked the top bit very well.
Resaca, Siurana - Another consolation after heading to L'Aparador for a last day redpoint of another route, only to find a team in-situ. One of those routes that looks to have few holds and yet is actually quite straightforward once you remember that it's a slab.
Crucigrama, Margalef - Best route of my second Siurana trip of the year. The lack of route climbing was really noticeable (see spankings), but there's so much quality across the grades that you set your sights slightly lower and get on with it.
Top three fell races
Three Peaks, Yorkshire - The main focus of the first 4 months of 2016. I'd never raced anything longer than 12 miles before 2016, so it was a massive step up and required a lot of extra miles to previous years. Having set a 4 hour target, I was made up to finish in 3:45 in fairly tough conditions (significant snow on all 3 tops). The moment of realisation was going up the last bit to Ingleborough summit feeling strong and had a massive smile on my face for the last 5 miles (possibly mistaken for a grimace by some).
Lee Mill Relays, Rossendale - A proper experience in filthy weather the previous year, we returned with a couple of strong teams this year. First time we've managed to get a vets team out from the club, ran the 1st leg for the vets and walked away with the V40 win. The men's open team were leading from leg 2 onwards and won the overall by a decent margin too.
Pendle 3 Peaks, Lancashire - Having recce'd the route a week before in hot weather, I was expecting a suffer-fest. Somehow managed to pace it well and pushed on through the field from halfway to score my first championship points in the English Champs (just the vets bit though!).
Top 2 spankings
National Fell Relays, Loch Lomond - Totally messed up the navigation leg of the relays in awful conditions. Lots of lessons learned for bad conditions on the fells!
Siurana/Margalef in November - The realisation that a summer of running and intermittent bouldering doesn't prepare you for bolt clipping trip in the sun.
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11th year posting on this thread. Didn't do many routes but a couple i was chuffed with.
Top three boulder problems, UK
Backhand Roof, Woodwell - Was good to do this quick after staring at it over the years. Beta from Paul Craven.
Chopsaw No.2, Gerlan - Again pleased to do this quick as pretty much my anti-style. Short, slopey and dynamic. One of the coolest moves i've done in Wales.
Severus Snape, Back Bowden - Did this and Sprung in a couple of enjoyable days on the sandstone.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Nope
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Still too young for this shizzle.
Top three sport routes UK
Only did about ten. One that stands out was Little Weed at Llanymynech. Only a little route in a quarry but i don't do much onsighting/flashing so was nice to fight and pull one out the bag.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Nope
Top three new routes/problems put up
Final Cut, Parisellas - was pretty shocked to do Director's Cut but even more so to do it 4 times in a week a few months later and do the route extension. Directors is still awesome even with kneebars and when i saw Ally bolting the extension in Feb I never would have believed I'd link the whole thing that year.
The Holy Grail, Llanddulas Cave - after a promising start my head soon got frazzled by the redpoint crux and i gave up in July with no intention of trying it again (maybe ever). A week before I went away in Autumn for 3 weeks I went back as I was in the roof climbing shape of my life. Sure enough I finally stuck the crux and got into the kneebar and the end of Temple. Fell off right at the end that sesh then came back two days later (probably last chance of the year) and nailed it. Felt pretty fortunate that the stars aligned and I got up it.
Big Trouble in Little China Low Start, Penmaenbach. Had a good few days entertainment developing this overlooked boulder at the start of the year. Didn't notice the low start until i went back in Autumn. Quite a useful boulder as it's probably the quickest drying in North Wales.
Top Spankings
The Tracks. Fell off the last tricky move in a sesh in the summer and fell there a few more times when I went back. Don't think anyone else has fallen off that move more than once. Went back in winter, fell off that move a few more times and split a few tips. Spanked!
Pit Problem low, Trowbarrow. This felt nails.
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No interesting trips away this year, so two categories will do for me
Top Boulder Problems:
Ron’s Arete at Earl
Scary but steady all the way - used up all my highballing psyche for the day on a scary high foot towards the top of this, but was rewarded with one of the better lines I’ve done
Bird Flu at Hen Stones
Spurred on by the Will Hunt “it’s only 6C” campaign I ignored the 7B guidebook grade and dragged my arse out of bed at 4 in the morning to walk through a cloud and get to it before the midday rain. 3 goes later it turns out he’s right and the easier sequence is one of the more uniquely contorted things I’ve done on a slabby arête.
Idwal Arete in Ogwen
Slabby highball aretes with flat but hard landings next to the road actually exist in Wales apparently!
Archery at West Nab
After staring at the Over the Moors guide for too long I finally got out to this remote crag and this tall 7A arête that no-one seemed to go to for some reason. Was sure it had to be sandbagged/bold/shit, but it turned out to have a flat landing, great line, nice techy moves and was only really 6B to boot!
Boing Boy at Clifftop Boulders
Snatched on a spontaneous afternoon in autumn where everything looked like it had been ruined by rain mid-morning only for glorious breeze and sun to save the day. A basic but satisfying move that I’d told myself really wasn’t likely to work for me.
Voie Normale at Craig y Llyn
Sums up everything I love about typical North Wales bouldering – it’s like what I imagine Magic Wood to be like if it was more damp and mossy, had sharper rock and required an hour of online research to work out where the hell it was.
Top Spankings:
Soft on the G
Couldn’t really get established, which was made even worse by the amount of people assuring me it’s piss
Stall
Yes I know it’s knacky – it’s still fucking nails!
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Bird Flu at Hen Stones
Spurred on by the Will Hunt “it’s only 6C” campaign I ignored the 7B guidebook grade and dragged my arse out of bed at 4 in the morning to walk through a cloud and get to it before the midday rain. 3 goes later it turns out he’s right and the easier sequence is one of the more uniquely contorted things I’ve done on a slabby arête.
Justice! Vindication is sweet.
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Top three boulder problems, UK:
Bouldering sucks.
Top three boulder problems, abroad:
El Gorro, Albarracin - a pleasingly hard flash that indicated the gym core work might have done something!
Supermafachato, Albarracin - blindingly obvious but undeniably brilliant.
Ilice, Albarracin - committing and rewarding.
Top three trad death choss routes UK:
The Complete Works, The Range - fantastic and possibly "climbing experience of the year". Easy squirming up a silt trench, 32 bits of gear including 12 slings, 3-4 of which were good, second pulling crux holds off twice, etc etc. Hopefully all will make sense in a forthcoming film.
The Great Crack Of Porth Oer, Porth Iago - a possibly unrepeated Martin Crook XS, great line, lovely location, classic climbing. "I'll stop saying below, just assume whenever I do a move something will come down".
Dogs Of War, Gogarth South - bland, commercial, select guide mundanity, but more harrowing than the above!
Top three trad intense challenge routes UK:
Black Magic, Pentire Point - could have been the best lead of my life in "mint connies", as it was I had to settle for the hardest lead of my life, but still satisfying.
Mad Mutt, Mur Ceninheinon - this was the other the hardest lead of my life after an easy warm-up in Goneril. Power-endurance trad in the sky. Again satisfying.
The Baldest, St Loy - no idea about the hidden RP (which Rockfax mentions along with an upgrade even with that knowledge), so ended up teetering on crystals 8m out from gear, a real "calm the fuck down Fiend" moment, and an amazing route.
Top three trad pure pleasure routes UK:
Antenna, Land's End - as steady as Longship's Wall was desperate, despite blazing sun, and really nice crisp wall climbing.
Solo In Soho, Pinfold - who'd have thought Clwyd limestone could be this elegant and pleasing?
Steppenwolf, Avon Gorge - who'd have thought Avon E3 could be this easy, steady, and just plain fun?
Top three sport routes UK that are Cheddar F7as:.
Shakin' Like A Leaf, Cheddar - very nice indeed.
Get That Man, Cheddar - quite hard and rewarding.
The Pirates Of Lamb Leer, Cheddar - climbed well and pleasing.
Top three routes abroad (any genre):
El Muro De Las Lamentaciones, Chullila - one of many great long walls here, this is perhaps the least logical but the most vibey and pleasing.
Maracuja, Zillertal - 8 days of psyche after first spotting it, a great route and a good finish to a fairly bumbly trip.
Arte Del Olvido, Sella - "an immense pitch" and Rockfax is actually right for a change, really cool fly-on-the-wall line up spaced pods.
Top three new routes/problems put up:
Really Too Obvious, Craig Bodlyn - a really obvious line and pretty fun.
Routey McRouteface, Craig Bodlyn - neat, elegant mid-grade wall up a good feature.
Unnamed bloc, Craig Bodlyn - pristine boulder bumbling in a great spot.
Top three tricks with a radio control car:
Flashing 6' tunnel loop-the-loop, HPI Savage XS - jaw dropped, and I knew I was right to sate the decades-old desire to try RC cars.
Skatepark rim slide, Carisma GT24TR - I thought a small 1/24 scale would make the skate ramps more challenging. Apparently not, though this minor trick was the most elegant (and least damaging!)
Custom motor, custom lighting, 22.5mph, WLToys P929 - it fits on my hand, glows bright red with 2 LED strips, and goes like a little missile.
Top Spankings:
Autumn in general - depressed, inactive, slothful.
Some E3 in North Pembroke - the route was greasy and horrible and undergraded but the nighttime faff escaping and retrieving gear nearly had me giving up climbing.
Margalef in general - trained hard, prepared well, got psyched, climbed crap.
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Bird Flu at Hen Stones
Spurred on by the Will Hunt “it’s only 6C” campaign I ignored the 7B guidebook grade and dragged my arse out of bed at 4 in the morning to walk through a cloud and get to it before the midday rain. 3 goes later it turns out he’s right and the easier sequence is one of the more uniquely contorted things I’ve done on a slabby arête.
Justice! Vindication is sweet.
6C is probably a little harsh? I thought 7A, with the left side being 7A+ (maybe? I can't actually do it) and the other 6C arete probably being more on the money maybe a little soft?
Great stuff coming out here - keep up the good work! Gus and Barrows I'm especially looking forward to yours!! And anyone who is a strong trad wad!
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Top boulder problems
- Slopey Traverse - Almscliff. Felt like it was going to go straight away. Instead it took bloody ages. I even dropped it on Morell's wall once. Still really enjoyed it and nice to feel strong again.
- Out of Sight - Bridestones. Brilliant. Quintessential grit problem, feeling like the move won't go and then you just do it and it's fine.
- King of Drunks - Wavelength. Good crowd scenes. Beautiful rose pass.
Top trad routes / highballs
- Wombat - Malham. First time climbing trad at Malham (and on lime) and it felt wild. Extremely unfit after months of exams made this a real fight. Great day climbing with Tom who led everything. It just kept going!
- Supersonic - High Tor. Again on the soft end but this time fitter. What a route and what exposure up there. Old school climbing on pockets. Made me want to become a better trad climber.
- Death Drop 2000 - Caley. Brilliant highball I'd been wanting to do for a while. Need to keep your nerve pushing through the top.
- Sinbad - Slipstones. Perhaps my favourite highball of 2016. Ace moves on pockets in the upper reaches. I had just fallen off and then it started raining. I waited as long as I dared to try and let the pump go and jumped back on before the top got too wet making it a gripping affair!
Top sport routes
- Metal guru - Kilnsey. First 7c and really enjoying myself at the big rock umbrella. Nice boulder start, no hands rest on the slab and then a steady fight to the top.
- Under the Boardwalk - LPT. Never climbed here before. Lovely little rock pools full of fish things to watch whilst belaying. The top mantle on this was almost a heartbreaker.
- Cruisin' for a bruisin' - Yew Cogar. Another brilliant new crag. Got much more into my sport climbing this year. Sent in a session on a hot day. I love this magical place and can't wait to get stuck in to Vorsprung properly this spring / summer.
Top winter routes
- Blade Runner - Red Tard Cove. Good route of two halves. Winter climbing is just awesome.
- Hidden Chimney - Coire an t'Sneachda. Fun questing up the chimney all by myself to a blue bird top out.
- Red Gully - Coire an t'Sneachda. Other mates were one pitch from the top of fingers ridge so we ran down to do this. Pitch black by the first belay. No one wanted to lead so off I went alone into the darkness, just the crunch crunch of the snow, starlight above me and torchlight bouncing around the gully walls and making the snow sparkle like diamonds. 50m run out, by myself in that position just felt amazing. We did 6 routes that day.
Top new problems
- Plummet Earth - High Crags. Amazed we managed to get the FA of this. Proper good grit prow, slopers and burl followed by a contrasting delicate finish that's not over till it's over (as Will found out). Best 7a- thereabouts? Go do it.
- Dolis Dyno - Ash Head. I'm not one for dyno's but this one was nice.
- Siege of Orléans - Twin Towers. Almost emotional at the top. I visited the crag around 6 times and it was mostly wet. Even when everything was dry, a dastardly pocket full of water on the top would overflow just on my holds if the wind came from the wrong direction (and blowing 40mph...) Big and bold grit arete with a unique sequence to unlock it. The holds are poor enough that you can't just pull your way up it.
Top spankings
- Exorcist short - Almscliff. From thinking I'd never climb 8A after shoulder issues, I pull on and manage half the problem. Since then I've fallen off the last move many, many times. I know I can do it, but something always goes bloody wrong. Last session my foot popped off feeling mega on two small holds and I hung there, tried to get my right foot back on and then felt something give way in my left hand. Now nursing a swollen pulley and 2+ weeks of no climbing. Fuck. Roll on 2017.
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Bird Flu at Hen Stones
Spurred on by the Will Hunt “it’s only 6C” campaign I ignored the 7B guidebook grade and dragged my arse out of bed at 4 in the morning to walk through a cloud and get to it before the midday rain. 3 goes later it turns out he’s right and the easier sequence is one of the more uniquely contorted things I’ve done on a slabby arête.
Justice! Vindication is sweet.
6C is probably a little harsh? I thought 7A, with the left side being 7A+ (maybe? I can't actually do it) and the other 6C arete probably being more on the money maybe a little soft?
Great stuff coming out here - keep up the good work! Gus and Barrows I'm especially looking forward to yours!! And anyone who is a strong trad wad!
Personally not for me, but it's a very weird foot sequence so I can see it being quite person specific. For contrast I spent 5 minutes trying to work out what the hell was going on with the other 6C arete and barely got two moves in!
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Didn't get out of Devon much this year...
Top 3 Boulder Problems UK (Existing)
1. The Jungle Book (7b+) - Bovey Woods Sits alongside Devon Sent as one of the best in the SW, kinder on the skin and higher with a slap for the top. More people should get on it.
2. Hang On Snoopy (6c+) - Cartoonlands A proud arete that I thought was a FA but, it appears, Mr Palmer beat me to it...by about ten years!
3. No Wray Jose (6a) - Wray Cleave One of the best easier problems on Dartmoor, steep with good holds and long reaches.
Top 3 Boulder Problems UK (New)
1. The Discombobulator (7b) - The Goldilocks Zone Very hard to unlock, this took a last ditch effort at the end of a session to through a glimmer of hope into the equation. Went relatively quickly with the right sequence.
2. Manna From Devon (7a+) - The Goldilocks Zone Surely the best granite in Devon. Subtle and technical.
3. Wrey Awrete (7a+) - East Wrey Barton Slappy, slopey stuff. Hard to figure out....just have to believe.
Top 3 Boulder Problems Font
1. Knees (7a) - Apremont Enjoyed working this out. Didn't enjoy falling off the easy move at the top.
2. La Fissure Evasee (7a) - Isatis A beautiful day and a beautiful place. Old school...
3. La Proue De La Passion (6c+) - Cuisiniere Last day, arms were screaming, brits next door were screaming, camembert was humming. Good problem.
Did some sports climbing but not a vintage year...
Did some DWS and kept falling in. Maybe my projects are too hard for me? It was fun failing/flailing though.
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This year was definitely trad-focussed!
Top 3 Trad, UK
Fast City, Dove Crag, E5 What a crag! 40m+ of sustained overhanging climbing - like Kilnsey, but better and without the bolts and crowds.
Left Wall, Brimham, E5 Totally un grit-like climbing! The sprint up the headwall was mega with some funky moves and a spicy feeling slap to the ledge trying to ignore the potential massive lob. When it's good, Yorkshire grit really is the best.
Ghost Train, Stennis Ford, E6 One of those rare days when everything seems to flow.
Top 3 Routes Abroad
Oceans of Air, Tafelberg SA, 21 Surely one of the best trad crags (mountains) anywhere. This route was like climbing Kilnsey Main Overhang (except 100m off the ground) at about HVS.
Tequila Sunrise, Blouberg SA, 25 A brilliant adventure on a really wild cliff, complete with baboons, vultures etc. The route was excellent with 3 outstanding pitches, and quite a few really good ones. Definitely one of my top 5 climbing days out.
Bisexual, Cala Barques, 7a The last day of a really enjoyable week in Mallorca - we'll definitely be back.
Top Three Two Sport Routes UK
Obsession, Malham, F7b+ Mega classic, mega good.
Illywacker, Hollywood Bowl, F7b+ Felt much harder than it should have been! I fell off the top move (a lot) so was pretty relieved to get it done.
Top Spanking
Cave Route Left Hand Robbed by the wetness in the middle of the summer. Next year...
I didn't really do any bouldering this year apart from lots of traversing at Trowbarrow.
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Top three trad death choss routes UK:
The Complete Works, The Range - fantastic and possibly "climbing experience of the year". Easy squirming up a silt trench, 32 bits of gear including 12 slings, 3-4 of which were good, second pulling crux holds off twice, etc etc. Hopefully all will make sense in a forthcoming film.
I was just glad to glance across and see Mike looking as pale as me watching this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_G_0Y9LNMB9oHyvNXr2wF-u9hC44V6ZPIwTKKuw0Og5bpJYhysjY8sCnyNXiT-gc18ijpjEEwg=w1136-h638-no)
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Top three boulder problems, UK
36 Chambers Sit 8A, Tremeirchion
Hatchatrocity 8A, Parisella's Cave
Lou Ferrino sans Pocket 8A, Parisella's Cave
Top three boulder problems, abroad
None
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None
Top three sport routes UK
The Quick Fixe 8b, Kilnsey
La Connection 8b, Kilnsey
Four Door Dostoyevsky 8a+, Cheedale Cornice
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
White Wedding 8b+, Smith Rock
Lourdes 8a, El Chorro
Churning in the Ozone 8a, Smith Rock
Top three new routes/prolems put up
None
Top Spankings
Just Do It 8c+, Smith Rock - 2 trips this year in Spring and Autumn resulted in a lot of progress but no cigar. Getting shut down by a 2 finger pocket crank on the upper crux. A replica has been built of this move and training plans laid for a rematch in the autumn!
True North 8c, Kilnsey - wet rock stopped play prematurely in mid August just as I had broken through to the last move for the first time. Hopefully this year will be drier.
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Top three boulder problems, UK
The Alliance, Burbage South. I actually thought I was going to die at the top. Panic set in from the pocket up, which was about the same time I stopped using my feet.
Lizard King, Cromlech-ish. 10minute walk up hill from the roadside boulders and you're rewarded with gems like this?
Lou Ferrino, Parisellas. I put it off for years. Rightful classic - excellent. I thought the sans pocket eliminate was equally decent.
Top three boulder problems, Font
Big Golden, Cuvier Rempart. This was one of the - I wish I could climb that - kind of lifetime ambitions I set myself when I first started climbing. Brilliant.
Fata Morgana, Coquibus. Basic as fuck.
El Poussif, Isatis. Classic font climbing on crazy sculpted rock.
Top three one sport route and two boulders on a rope UK
Realm of Chaos, Wallsend. I really really enjoyed this climb. Every single inch of it kept me interested. At the top of my UK sport routes.
Why Me?, Cheedale. Thuggy and almost worth wadding through the freezing cold river.
Hall of Mirrors, The Cuttings. Thuggy.
Top two sport routes, Spain
Mar de Ortigas, Desplomilandia. I was psyched out of my mind to clip the chains on this. I felt like I snatch victory from the jaws of defeat. Spent about 5 minutes shaking out on each hold for the last few minutes. I may have let out a small victory whoop.
Poema de Roca, Frontales. How much fun is this? Excellent!
Top Spankings
Roof of the Baby Buddha, Betws. Why won't the heel stick? Why?!
Mussel Beach, LPT. I had another bash at this, and I failed again (granted it was too cold, but I went back a couple of times after and psyched myself out and didn't get on it. Weak)
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Top Sport Climbs: I have no shame in saying that my top 3 are all from a 3-week trip to Rodellar.
- Mal de Amores: Ticked off a route that felt too hard during last year's trip. Doing it so quickly was so unexpected that I only wore a kneepad on the low-crux side and had to change sides on route. Memorable!
- Kings of Metal. Another unexpected fast tick. One of the few times I've felt borederline heroic while climbing was on those amazing crux moves.
- Philipe Cuisinere. My first 8b, did 5th burn. Felt impossible a year ago. Basically did it twice in a day after I slipped out of a kneebar on the victory-lap finish.
Top Sport Climbs Not in Rodellar
- Palace of Swords, Foxhole: Really great to tick off an old nemesis. Unexpected, given that I'd worked the last 4hrs at Boardmasters with little sleep.
- Cannonade, Shipwreck Cove: Another past spanking put in its place. 2nd ascent.
- The 7b/+ at Regina in Terradets. I mean, it's just fucking amazing.
Top Non-sport Climbs
- Ejector Seat, Diablo (DWS). Such a memorable bounce to the tufa.
- Kitten Claws, North Pembroke (Trad). My favourite route from getting into trad over the summer. I've fallen back in love with climbing!
- Trust, The Roaches (bouldering). Tufa stamina boy climbed a slab!
Top Spankings
- Every boulder or bouldery route I've tried since coming back from Spain. I mean seriously, it's only now that I'm starting to feel less completely shit at climbing.
- Achilles, Shipwreck Cove. I was expecting to pull on, find it fairly steady and do it with some effort. Instead, it felt harder than ever before, and I gave up without even dogging to the top. More oomph required.
- Every Cat is Black, Diablo. Why the heck didn't I do "the" move?
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Top Boulder problems UK
Tsunami - Never thought I would be able to do the crouch let alone this. Finally feel i'm making progress on peak lime, still can't do the press though...
Renegade Master - Its renegade... Pooed myself on the top to make it extra memorable.
Full Power - Probably the most time I have spent on a boulder, very satisfying to finish off, only half the tick though.
Top Boulder problems abroad
Riverbed - First of the grade and pretty much a dream tick, even if it is the softest 8b ever.
Atresie -Went super quick and is amazing. More significantly, did this along with Tristesse and Big boss in a session to complete the big 5.
La platte -Its the hardest climb in the world and anyone who says otherwise is wrong.
Top routes
I only did 3 and they were all on peak lime and therefore a bit shite.
Top trad routes
My balls aren't big enough for this stuff anymore...
Top spankings
The press - Its definitely impossible.
L'apparement Very nearly did it at Easter, came back at Christmas and couldn't get as far, need more friction (strength).
Steppenwolf - Tried incredibly hard on it and got kinda close, but ran out of time. Will be back.
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I only did 3 and they were all on peak lime and therefore a bit shite.
:spank: :P
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First time replying to this list. Despite having some fairly bad back and hip (sciatic) problems this year and taking quite a bit of time out I have had one of the best years climbing!
Top three boulder problems, UK
Tetris - This was my big winter goal for 16/17 and did at start of deceember 2nd session. Very happy!
Famous Grouse - Big one for me as it was one when I was growing up that "only really good people from Sheffield will ever do that!" Felt Significant!
Velvet Crab - Tried a couple of time before and felt hard took a big lob off the top and with a knackered back that was quite scary. Composed myself got back on it and executed it properly!
Top three boulder problems, abroad - Didn't do much went to font with a hurt leg came back with a hurt back!
Attention Chef - Wanted to do for ages. Not really my style very happy to get it done!
La Baleine - Had tried before really love the moves on it!
Fosse Ailleurs - Really good climb actually never heard of it before getting on it, ticked really quickly.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK - This may be a few more as I seem to have had a year of ticking life time goals!
Old Man of Hoy Original Route - Just an amazing experience and a life long goal. Done in under 24 hrs from Sheffield in a 3! The whole trip adds to this route though - unforgettable!
A dream of White Horses - What a route at that grade. Outrageous!
Wuthering - Walked away from it so many time because it was too hot, too windy, too cold, too sunny, too Saturday, i was too rusty etc etc. Got on it and loved every seccond of it!
Gogarth - First route on Gogarth main cliff and first route on anglesey - Felt like i was a real climber after this!
Promontory Traverse - A route as a kid I thought I would never be good enough to lead or second. Being a perpetual VS leader when I finally did it one evening after work I just thoroughly enjoyed it!
The Rasp - 3rd go ground up and god I had to fight for it! Never tried so hard on a route and made it up. Very Happy!
Commander Energy - Again walked away from this many times in the past did this year July 30th on my birthday and it was ace!
Snakes and Ladders - Day after Dream of white horses it was raining and horrible. How to make the best of a bad situation! Great fun day out!
Top Winter Routes
Only did a few really but:
Tower Ridge - Another bucket list route and boy does it deserve it's reputation. Done in pretty foul weather but was just incredible!
Aonach Eagach Ridge - Wanted to do it since the first time I drove into Glen Coe. Big day out harder and longer than expected in beautiful weather but with very soft fluffy snow made it hard work!
Top Spankings
My Apple - Still can't do it. 5 sessions maybe? Nails, never 7a+ Brick hard with whatever sequence you use. I've tried them all!
Brad's Rib - Injured my leg just before going to Font and twinged my back again! Twice!
Big Jim - Hmmmmmmm
Lady Big Claques - Hurt my back lobbing off the top and also nearly broke my wrist (Doc said the x-ray 2 months later was satisfactory, still don't really know what that means)
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Top boulder problems
Last boulder problem of the year comes first to mind. Mine was Acid Reign 6C at Rivelin. I had never bouldered at Rivelin as I’d formed the impression that it was all green, obscure and with bad landings. We only went because it was claggy in the Peak and so instead of having a miserable time at a world class crag we had a great few hours in the Winter sunshine at Rivelin. Acid Reign was a tease and Mark figured out the top move first. 5 minutes drive from my house and I never knew it existed.
King of Drunks 7a Wavelength Couldn’t do the sit start in 2014. Came back for a week of glorious weather with Tommy in May and at first it felt like I couldn’t do the sit again at first without loads of moves but then found I could do it the basic powerful way (and TPM couldn’t!). Great views, superb rock and the golf ball hold.
The Shepherd 6c+ Roaches Skyline Another trip out with the boys and to satisfy their preference for novelty locations took me back here for the first time in 20 years. Biting cold wind in an exposed location with fab views. Lovely rock and a loooong sketchy reach. Very satisfying.
Top new boulder problems
Walrus 7A+ Rue Des Masques. Summer trip to the Braincon area of the Alps by which time Tommy had gone off roped climbing. On the back of some vague beta on the web we quested and bushwhacked around the conglomerate boulders below the sport crag Rue Des Masques. I stumbled across an attractive 30 degree overhanging boulder with a great looking central line. It took us a second visit to do it with Ben getting it first naming the problem after the large grey textured stone in the middle which reminded him of a walrus. Further googling suggested the stand may have been done before but maybe not from sitting as we did. Vid below.
Parapet Buttress eatswood Proof that even in the Peak there is still new stuff to do right under your nose – in this case right by the approach path and untouched. All it took was 30minutes of bramble clearing and brushing to yield two decent burly 6b traverses. Vid below
Top sport routes
On the Road 7a Lorry Park Quarry Seeking shade on the hottest day of the year this was an unexpected treat. If you like funky thought provoking moves and bridging like I do, then you’ll love this.
Los Caminantes 7c – Knew nothing about the route except a German climber at the crag said it was good and that if you could do the bottom 7b pitch then the you could do the 7c extension – 50meters in total. The bottom 7b pitch was hard and the extension required fighting for every inch using half remembered offwidth techniques using armbars and cunning to gradually udge up shallow tufas which seemed to go on forever. A great start to the year.
Walking with Barrence 7b It pains me to recommend a Moulding route but it was a good and intense route and it was a pleasure to go back to the Eglwyseg valley after so many years. Typical pretentious route name from Moulding
Top trad routes
Ceramic E4 Chee Tor Big up to Rob Greenwood for instigating a crag clean up. Ity almost felt like 1985 again. Pleased to have got back enough into trad mode to repeat this classic though had to switch my brain off to do the runout.
Crib Goch – Does this count as a rock climb? Rest day outing with Tommy and my first view of the Snowden Horseshoe. Magic. Pic below.
(http://i.imgur.com/QCiBPwb.jpg)
The Brasser E2 First trip to Fairhead! Been meaning to go for decades. I was scared getting back into trad climbing. The clag meant that the west side of the headland was grim so we headed over to the the other side and found it surprisingly dry and had the cliff to ourselves. I warmed up on this and whilst we did harder routes on the trip that were probably better but I enjoyed this the most as it was easy enough to romp up without being scared.
Roadrunner E6 High Tor – I've always been a bit dismissive about this route partly because it is a strange line but probably more because I kept failing on it over the years. Now Ive done it I think its brilliant (funny that). Really had to pull the stops out on the A6 headwall above old pegs when I was pumping badly. Could so nearly have been another failure
New routes
High Tor has been a long been my stomping ground and I have been putting up new routes there for 30 years. The two new ones Ive done this year have been up with the best.
Big Cigar 7c Highlight of the year for me (apart from Tommy doing Raindogs) Never underestimate how much effort is required to do a substantial new route and big up to Conners for his support and Mike Hutton for the photo. The hanging pocketed rib was obvious every time I abseiled down the crag from the Debauchery abseil tree but figuring out a suitable start wasnt. It was Neil Foster’s suggestion to access it from Castellan itself (and preserving the independence of his own route!) I had virtually flashed Castellan in 1987 with Seb but it was a skin of the teeth job and I felt sick from the effort by the time I got to the belay. It still felt desperate in 2016 -Conners certainly thought so (French 7b) and you still need to have enough left for 40 feet some of the best pocketed climbing in the Peak (not that is saying much!). Just before doing it I happened to meet Steve Bancroft at a party of Seb’s and chatted to him for the first time. He recounted how John Allen and he had freed Castellan as teenagers. The ascent was spread over two days which led Geoff Birtles to describe it in Crags magazine as a “good effort but no big cigar!”. There is a great account of their shenanigans by John Allen in Extreme Rock. It was unfortunate that I wasn’t able to make it a fully bolted sport route but most of the trad gear can be placed on abseil and it is very easy to top rope the upper rib from the Debauchery abseil tree.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8840/28828766165_b59fee9879_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KVuXNv)Big Cigar (https://flic.kr/p/KVuXNv) by TheUKBShark (https://www.flickr.com/photos/64358048@N03/), on Flickr
[/quote]
Dementia E5 6a, 6a, 5c. I first conceived of a big counter diagonal running at a lower level to Delicatessen back in the 80’s and on a winters day persuaded Seb out. I remember there was snow on the ground and I deliberately rubbed my hands in it to get hot aches so I could get the blood flowing to my fingertips once the pain had subsided. We abseiled onto the Lyme Cryme belay and I quested rightwards onsight at E1 or E2 to a hanging rope with a rucsac and thermos in the Original Route groove. Once Seb joined me I madfe a few attempts to swing around the arete into Tales before calling it a day. the route would be too disjointed to make it worthwhile and I never recorded the pitch I did because it was meh. In 2013 I did a couple of routes starting up Lyme Cryme which then climbed over the bulge of Bromptons Cocktail before taking different lines above. I later realised that I could use the start of the right hand one to connect up into my old traverse making a long hard E5 and suitable companion to the next pitch crossing Tales and Bastille at a similar grade. My first attempt with Bonjoy was an abysmal failure. I was strong enough to keep reversing the Bromptons bulge but not got the head to do the runout above. Fortunately Jon was willing to come back and I managed to MTFU and do it but not without some wobbles. The pitch crossing Tales was much shorter and exquisite pocket climbing and I didn’t want it to finish.
Top spankings :spank:
This is the category where I am consistently world class
The Oak 8b Malham. Yet again been dealt out the mother of all spankings. There was one session in the Spring and another in the Autumn when I came close but it somehow slipped between my fingers. Again. This year it will be different – he says.
El Guide Direct E3 and Rembrandt Pussyhorse E3 Craig Cwm Glas Bach
My trad head has been a fragile thing for many years requiring a gradually build-up of confidence or the motivation of a new route. Physically I’m a far stronger and better climber in every other way than when I did E5’s as a matter of course in the 80’s and 90’s but now those routes are too terrifying. I managed a build up this year but it was a house of cards and my decline at the end of this summer was ignominious. Fortunately only Nick was there to see my loss of savoir faire on a cold November day in the Pass. I've not been able to talk about it till now.
eatswood Reverse 7B+/7C (8a/8a+) Repeatedly dropped the last couple of moves over a number of sessions. It finishes on a slopey ledge (despite what Dave says) and the ultimate fail was when I got the ledge with my right hand and then went to cross through to match it with my left and somehow managed to knock my right wrist off mid move. Vid below. Fortunately I managed it on a subsequent visit but not before a dabbed ascent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X56TQ_Rk4RQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Sfduj_t5eI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9l0j4us8rk
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Yay it's that time of year again! Good work everybody! Also good to see some first time posters on this thread, get psyched!!
I had an awesome year, so was lots and lots to choose from, but if I had to narrow it down:
Top 3 trad uk
"Gecko Blaster" E7 6c, Shining Cliff: Another one ticked off my "mates rates" ticklist, and yet another one from that man Seb Grieve! My spotter/extra pad supplier Ben had run out of time and was about to have to head home, so had to step up and dispatch despite feeling a bit rushed. First time pushing it high up with the new hip so was a bit nervous, as it turns out there were no dramas!
"Cockblock" E5 6b, clogwyn y grochan: been on the list for years, ended up slipping over whilst belaying Howard on "quantum jump" and totally fucked my ankle just before, however the desire to do it was strong so I just got on it before it swelled up/stiffened up fully and somehow managed to onsight it. Didn't find the climbing too bad but was absolutely terrified, you're definitely trusting a lot to that one or two wires!
"Reach" E2 5c, Treen, Cornwall: this was a really special one, as treen beach was one of my dads very favourite places. I saw some guys climbing in the "Charlie's Chank" area when I was a small kid, and it had always stuck in my mind. Was really nice to go back to such a special place with special memories. Emotional! Cheers dad! X
Top 3 sport uk
"GBH" 8a+, Malham: it takes a lot to make me properly project a route, but this definitely had what it takes! One of the better sport routes I've done! Took about 5 or 6 sessions and I understand why people get into projecting, as there are no questions or decisions of "where do we go today? What do we try?" It's already decided, the warm up routine is dialed, and in some ways it's less stressful!
"The sea is a brown paper bag" cheedale, 7b+/c: wanted to do this for ages, what a great route, and no pushover! Good after work scenes with good friends, as was:
"The third order" 7b, cheedale: this one was less about the route quality and more about the general scene, just a simple after work session down cheedale with cbr, no stress, good banter, and a pint of abs in the red lion afterwards of course!
Top 3 boulders uk
Andle stone wall, 7b, Stanton moor: after a year off bouldering it was time to get back in the game, and this was first up. Can't believe I'd never climbed on Stanton moor before, what a great venue! Great problem!
"Brass monkeys" 7c, stanage: wouldn't want to have any less reach for this one! Taking that cut loose with your feet all the way in the back of the roof takes some serious beans! One of a trio of ascents that day so always good group psyche scenes!
"Ron side force it" 7b/+, burbage: always good to do new moves in the burbage valley. This was at the very limit of my reach, basically having to one arm the right hand crimp! Again a really good scene with old and new friends at the crag, followed by a twilight reemergence session (and witnessing JB's "best day on grit") 2 pints in the Norfolk arms, a full works circuit, a curry and more beers, and then more beers and ranting. Dynamite!
Top 3 sport abroad
"Ourania" 7c+/8a, Kalymnos: I'd previously tried this before when my hip was pretty bad, with my wife belaying. She was belaying again this time and said she couldn't believe the difference in the way I could move. This is a great route with some sneaky beta at the top which I only figured out after dropping it right at the end a few times!
"Rumba" 7c+, dryavano monastery, Bulgaria: one of the highlights from an awesome short sharp trip to check out the climbing in there. A great, super interesting country with some great climbing. Nearly got the flash on this but just didn't quite have the minerals, and completely burnt myself out for the east of the day. Had to head back the next day and scrape up it third day on!
"Real Fight" 7c/+, dryavano, Bulgaria: a solid route at a great steep sector, with routes named in a Bruce lee theme, so right up my street! My neglected fitness was absolutely shambles so very well named!
Top 3 deep water solos
"Lotta" 7a+, ponta Garcia, Portugal: the very last route of an awesome, if eventful, trip to check out Portugal DWS. Can't believe we nearly missed this one, featuring a very low, very wet traverse in to a cool mini cave (with full "sea assisted spot " occurring!) and a ridiculously wild swing over to apex of the cave. Magic!
"Fergal Sharks" 7b+, Ingrina, Portugal: another cracker, added by non other than Adam wainwright! I took a couple of rides on this due to breaking holds, which wAs a right laugh! (Pissing yourself with laughter whilst still underwater never gets old!) apparently named after a big hammerhead that was swimming under the crag when Adam arrived! Eeeeeeek!
"Magnum" 7b, Garcia, Portugal: wow wow wow! This one is just simply outstanding! As good or better than anything in Mallorca, with a wild feet off dyno to a glory jug to finish! Well psyched to get the flash on this after others had offered themselves up to get the beta and take the splashdowns! All about the tactics ;)
Top 3 first ascents:
Bit cheeky these as I didn't do any of them, but it was great to try, and watch mates get the first ascents of these super high quality DWS additions in Portugal, after a bit of a battle for who was going to be first up:
"Squuuuaaaawk" 7c
"Spunkey monkey" 7b+/c
"Solero" 8a: the Jewel in the crown, portugals best and hardest!
Top spankings:
The grit in general this year, need to get the flow going. Getting "out lanked" on a lot of problems!
Adrenochrome, 8a, lulworth: always good to fail on though!
"The pump" E4 6b, clogwyn y grochan. Jeeeeez, not quite the "safe and hard" challenge that I was after that day. Ended up in full on danger, and jumping off on some blindly placed, dubious cams!
Right then you 'orrible lot, that's your lot. Keep em coming!
Gus
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Top three boulder problems
Tetris - Hadn't tried it for years then had a couple of sessions on it with a bunch of mates. Fully punted the top-out having got the juggy sidepull then trying to adjust for some daft reason. Went back on a speculative solo mission one evening as the sun was going down. Mint conditions, floated up it after a few warm up goes then did it again immediately after. Perfect gritstone evening!
The Mentalist - Tried on and off for while, sacked it off for a bit and did a few weeks fingerboarding. Went back one morning and warmed-up by doing the top section. Then crux bump into the pocket. The crux to top. Then bottom to top. 100% success rate for the day, so sat down, watched Mrs Reprobate crush Crazy Horses, then went to the pub. Great example of targeted training paying off.
La Musee Imaginaire - Lovely day up at Curbar repeating stuff. Spent a while watching people lobbing themselves at the top move on this, then found a nice way to balance up it gently. Great problem!
Top three spankings
Mirf's roof - No matter what i do on this i just can't stick the 'flick' to the lip under the roof. Made even more painful by watching Mrs R repeatedly make it look piss, whilst ticking Mirf's, Burly McMirfy and Witness. Three great problems I can't do coz of that one fekkin move! >:(
Diversion - Came close in 2015. Went back the moment we arrived in April and dropped the last hard move. Repeated visits went backwards over the week, then by the time we returned in November the start hold had broken rendering it nails/impossible :'(
Symiobse - Been meaning to try this one for years. Came SO close to doing it in a session on the first day of the November trip. Back at dawn the next day, pulled on then it started raining. Then snowing. Then raining. Spent Thursday cleaning the bouldering while it was still damp then went back on Friday to watch a few other lads crush it while i repeatedly came up short on the last hard slap. Just praying no-one breaks this one before I can get back to it.
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Yay it's that time of year again! Good work everybody! Also good to see some first time posters on this thread, get psyched!!
Word ;D
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- Globeros en Alaska, Pared del Catalonia, Montrebei. I'm pretty sure that this is the only route I used gear on this year, even though the crux-pitch is almost entirely on fixed pro. At least the only route with removeable pro I actually completed. Full write up http://steepground.blogspot.fr/2016/03/globeros-en-alaska-7a6b-250m-mont-rebei.html
You certainly got about this year. Looks class from the photos on your blog.
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Some people have had great years, really inspiring, thanks for taking the time to post. Mine wasn't bad at all from a climbing perspective, though most of the best bits happened in July and August.
Top three boulder problems, UK
Erm...
Top three boulder problems, abroad
White (children's) circuit - Roche aux Sabots. I can think of no better introduction to climbing. Wonderful to see the lad completely getting it. Perhaps a sign for the future.
Top three trad. routes/solos UK
A Few Dollars More, Old Man of Hoy - Roaring Forties was great too, but this route was cool for the impenetrable fog that had come down that day. It started to clear when we were on top.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NkPNsml0t2s56fcYJ00enV__ApYREKL2sGB5OP7VwsihS05wPxazhStEllyL4OLk_LMV2f0RT6gIvxf5viMRIQEzWRWj4-dsETRJTRE-XgbruIx-SkhaVeZO16v0llguAngHgIe7FJrm5alpvujbDgw5YYfz66tTZRM1c0aXKa7DSjPG21cHtXfpMpca8nAnt0u7kHORMyXkIK65t03zlEK7woO4DGe7PsVWa0tmEemsyEjghNBiXyae9INrWdO1uWqvadpiOEVnnCYqrwo-YRx1VLQMVcFeqHfjBOBz36Y5jUv9bfKnrP0TaoO0olTso88TyJ36Hf5vEmbox15oKZvB0ybZdQuAP_XDHlymd8WPecfA67f1mNfr_xYd6X63onVINEErAlZ08fCfmePcw0xM4B-LqGhXbajX58JppVe99ZaUZ92j1fbt2R9eoURItgFuhT5cQgl3awbsm0VBiTDeniTGItsFfsCMZ8qD9P-tlLD461Hp9G3Ucyc8shlG7aCVTvUmbk0T9i-W4rrRBwqk_vBKiVFCi2xqjD81hg1zfARqtJPPZq1cLNdZ0G2_USjpcsq3RnKm47CZK2xvWndc-wTUXSPA2uVuz0gVTLoCeLMd8MF7rDjc_9ayAlYM1t7UjwJAaCgW6p_vUP743s4YT4qxpmDrjrP4EeGO1A=w786-h589-no)
That's me emerging through the mist. Even though we didn’t try our target, this was a great trip with Wil.
Eroica and Black Magic - Pentire, with Fiend and cheque. Great to see Fiend overcome his doubts on Black Magic. Quite a relief to see him reach the belay without slipping off the last moves as another climbing partner did, with rather serious consequences, 20 years ago.
Forbidden Fruits - St. Govan’s East, with seankenny. Two star routes are great: often as good as the classics but more fun with less pressure and fewer expectations. This climbed really well, I was in the flow, and it was very satisfying as I’d just restarted after 4 months off.
Top three sport routes UK
Plenty of pleasant puntering at Portland. Nothing of note.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Excalibur - Wendenstock, with AJM. A flawed ascent but a great experience. We nearly didn’t try it at all due to iffy weather and a tight timetable, so glad to have made the effort.
(https://scontent-lht6-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13925121_10208638176423909_7325062467836668942_n.jpg?oh=6de8670f7afc9f35fd63232cfbacccd3&oe=58E8D4AF)
Rabadá-Navarro - Naranjo de Bulnes, with hugo. It's been on my radar since 1978. A great day out.
Zagrab - Ceuse, with csl. Representing an excellent trip. Pleased to do this in good style.
Top Spankings
L'angle à Jean-Luc - Sabots. Tenuous 6C on a hot sunny day, what was I thinking. As enjoyable as a spanking gets!
Supersonic - High Tor. Mixed feelings. I was a bit overwhelmed at the prospect of a first E5 for decades. Glad to have given it a go and fallen off, shame I wasn't on it a couple of weeks earlier as I had gone off the boil. Hope to have learned from all this. Aspire to do a better job this year.
Biggest ‘failure’ was spending too much time in my comfort zone. Must try harder.
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Slim pickings this year :(
Top three boulder problems:
Picnic Sarcastic – 7A+ – Styan – Went up to visit my best buddy who had just moved up the Kendal. Desert island boulder with a few other folk to have a laugh with... a great day.
Horror Arête 6C & Cleopatra 7A – Bridestones – A great day trip to Bridestones and Widdop. Great to go and bag a load of new classic ticks. Fought the snooze on the way back home in the car!
Andle Stone Wall – 7B - Stanton Moor – Big Ron Tick! One I’ve been wanting to return to for a long time. It was a good strength test which confirmed that my knee is fully healed.
Top sport route:
I spent the 2 weeks prior to my knee op after work at the Tor working ‘Out of my tree’… I didn’t get it dialled enough to go for the redpoint but I unlocked the moves and had a lot of fun.
Top Spankings:
I tore the meniscus in my left knee last October. Didn’t waste any time in seeing a physio and then GP / knee specialist. Had the operation to remove most of it in April.
All throughout and ever since I’ve been training hard and climbing outside as much as possible so it hasn’t set me back strength wise, just limited the type of climbs I could get on.
Anyway, I’m all fixed now and really enjoying the grit connies at the moment as well as being ridiculously psyched on several steep projects at the indoor wall
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Being probably the weakest person to ever climb 7B and 7c this year was quite an achievement! (I can barely hang a 20mm edge 2 handed)
Top Five Boulder Problems, UK
Left Wall Traverse - 7B - The Cave
3 months of effort, from not being able to link any of it or do all the moves to doing it in a oner a week before our 2nd child was born was deeply satisfying. More like a route than a boulder problem really.
http://vimeo.com/160646264
The Hitcher - 7A/+ - Roadkill Block
Great powerful roadside problem on sidepulls, did it in a few goes which was nice.
Monkey Do - 7A - Milestone Boulders
Awesome highball with he crux right at the top.
Lopan - 6C+ - Penmaenbach Boulder
Great moves on great rock, great find Doylo!
Billy Boy Arete - 6A+ - Talfarach
Big highball arete on amazing orange rock, right next to the sea in a 5* location.
Top sport route UK
Barely got to the top of any routes due to projecting and bolting...
Flowers are for the Dead - 7c - Dinbren
Put to bed after sporadically trying it for 3 years. First of the grade.
https://vimeo.com/173836927
I did a couple of other easier routes but nothing of merit...
Top Two New Routes
Children of the Corn - 7b - Little Orme
About 6 shouldery gaston crimp moves in a row for the crux, techy wall climbing, brilliant!
Evergreen - 6b+ - Little Orme
Not the best route ever but an alternative to jugging out.
Top Spankings
Non-Tidal Screamer - 7c - The Diamond
Think I had 7 or 8 sessions on this in a month. Came agonisingly close falling from the very last hard move in bad conditions. Experienced for the first time on a project being hideously pumped rather than powering out. Went back after a rest and in good conditions and failed to get to a high point, sacked it off and went on a new routing mission instead...
Grand Canyon - 7b+ - Devils Gorge
Not really a true spanking due to the fact I only had a handful of goes in 2 sessions, went back twice after this and both times it was wet, I know if I had the chance to get on it I would of been shut down anyway, true anti-style route.
Visiting Raven Tor...
A2 Strains
Finally through lack of sleep and back to back sessions on the moonboard I strained my A2's on both my middle fingers at the end of the year.
Top Near Death Experiences
A couple of near death experiences on the Little Orme added to the year a bit...
First was using the pulling out rope on the Diamond without a back up every time I went then one day after I went up a fella did back up going up and the pull out rope snapped on him. It's a long way down when the tide is out...
Second was new routing on the Little Orme, After a full day bolting it had gone dark, I had no head torch and I hadn't realised how much it had rained, the ground below the crag had turned into a mud death slide, the end of the slide being a 60m drop into the sea. I had already committed to the mud before realising it was so bad, ended up being stuck on a small not so slippy bit of ground with a couple of meters of slippy mud between me and the jug out rope I sort of ran/slipped and jumped to the rope with a backpack full of equipping gear and 2 drills, thankfully I grabbed it but it was one of them horrible "do or die" moments. Actually caused me to have nightmares afterwards...
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Good old seacliffs. Luke's not even a trad climber and he still has two near-death experiences to report. ;D Glad you're OK Luke. The second one sounds harrowing!
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Good old seacliffs. Luke's not even a trad climber and he still has two near-death experiences to report. ;D Glad you're OK Luke. The second one sounds harrowing!
Cheers ;D
Not a patch on what Rowland Edwards used to get up to on the Ormes back in the day but terrifying none the less!
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Both of those sound terrifying. Would give me nightmares too. :sick:
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Great thread for psyche!
Top three boulder problems, UK
Didn't do much this year, didn't finish anything hard though had some good days out, especially exploring Nesscliffe.
G-Thang 6B+ at Gardoms was the best problem I actually finished, and felt easy once I did it right.
Need to get back out there this year, want to tick some 7A+s.
Top three sport routes UK
Top of the list is Nightmare Scenario at the Cuttings which was my first 7c. Took 10 goes over 4 sessions, and represented a plateau breakthrough at 7b for four years. Very very psyched to get this.
Other than that I mainly climbed easy sport in the UK this year:
Kit Kat 6b at Blacknor Central was a surprisingly great climb, and Monsoon Malabar at the same crag was fantastic at 6a.
I was also super-inspired this year by my dad, who climbed his first 8a aged 63 (Fighting Torque at the Cuttings, Portland). And followed it up with a 7c later in the year. Beast!
Top three sport routes abroad
Had a great trip to Kalymnos with my brother in September/October.
Lucky Luca at Odyssey - my first 7a+ flash, considerably beating my previous best at 6c. Belayed by Alex Megos :strongbench:
Amphora 7b at Odyssey - took about 8 goes over two days and after starting confident I really began to doubt I would do it. Kept making mistakes, really suffered from redpoint pressure. But got it in the end which I usually fail to do on holiday redpoints so was very pleased.
Feta 6c at Odyssey - just really enjoyed this route, had a bit of a fight on the flash but it felt easy to repeat. Which was nice.
Top Spankings
Anything on gritstone this year - didn't climb enough to get the knack and got spanked on everything instead, particularly Mark's Roof, after starting the day feeling pretty confident on it.
Max Pax 'em in 7a at Chee Dale - managed to spend a day cocking up the crux of this in about 5 different ways, really didn't get my redpoint head in and was broken instead
Ivi 7a+ at Grande Grotta - I think I was tired, warmed down and psyched out on this - felt exhausting to dog up and even worse to strip. Blows my mind that Alex Megos campussed this!?
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What I like about this thread is the surprise I get when I look back at how much actually got done each year:
Top 3 Boulder Problems
Low rider
With the first of a series of illnesses almost behind me I was in a rush to get this done before the body collapsed. Straight home to bed. Excellent.
Roof of a Baby Buddha
Part of a trio of Welsh Problems climbed on short raids with Ru. Was great because we both did it, but mostly just because whole days away with Ru are what it's all about.
Back Street Mime Artist
Memorable for being one of those days where no-one else is climbing outside. Hail, snow and howling wind but it was perfect in that little hole...
Top 3 Sport (U.K.)
Vennerne and Airshow, Shipwreck Cove
Fantastic to find un-ticked routes of this quality in the U.K after all these years. A perfect weekend away.
Dominatrix
Route #23 of my 40th birthday extravaganza and the one I was really worried about. In the end it was fine, I still felt perfectly fresh and it was just dry enough...
Top 3 Sport (abroad)
Fiesta de los Biceps
Been meaning to do this for years and years. Finally did it with Jules on an epic weekend away. Didn't disappoint.
Punsola Reniu, Montserrat
Not as famous as fiesta but a fantastic route. Amazing free standing pillar and loads of history behind it. Climbed the same weekend as Fiesta...
Les Clowns, St Leger
One of those routes that should feel much easier than it did, but was all the better for being a real battle. 35m of tufa swimming, followed up by an afternoon of the real thing.
Top 3 trad
Balas, Kilnsey
An old classic I'd put off for ages. All the better for the hour I spent on a rope stripping vegetables out of the corner.
Queer Street, Chee Tor
Spent some brilliant days here thanks to cleaning efforts from Rob Greenwood and others. This was probably the best route.
The Weaver, Tremadog
See below.
Top 3 spankings
The Weaver, Tremadog
Spent hours back and forthing and couldn't figure it out to save my life. Much mirth was had at my expense. Got quite angry. Had to come back the following weekend to sort it out.
Big Issue, Pembroke
Yet Another Weekend failing to get conditions on this.
All the 8b's, France
My big goal this year was to onsight 8b. Needless to say it didn't happen, but in the space of two weeks I dropped the last moves on five or six. Much rage ensued.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Les Clowns is an amazing route. I branched off left up to the wrong anchor, downclimbed and managed to keep my stuff together and climb up to the correct anchor. Rarely been so tired as after that.
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Fergal Sharks" 7b+, Ingrina, Portugal: another cracker, added by non other than Adam wainwright! I took a couple of rides on this due to breaking holds, which wAs a right laugh! (Pissing yourself with laughter whilst still underwater never gets old!) apparently named after a big hammerhead that was swimming under the crag when Adam arrived! Eeeeek!
I am never going DWS in Portugal!! Fuck that!!
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The numbers game was weak but the spankings are strong:
Top three boulders (UK)- felt like I did very little compared to previous years
Ill gotten gains- mega, pleased to improve my flexibility
Brownian motion- always thought this was going to be nails, it went fairly stress free
Snapdragon- probably the best I climbed in the U.K.
Top five boulders abroad
Partage- Fontainebleau- as good as it gets I suppose
Bleau sacre- Fontainebleau- never thought I would climb 8B in Font (albeit soft). End of a very good day and a happy drive home
Tostaky- Fontainebleau- new one from 2015, recommended by Noble, didn't disappoint
Vice- Rocklands- so flipping good, popular for good reason
Basic instinct- one of the best from the trip, rarely done, big walk
Top three FA's (Boulders)- only did three
Path of daggers- tintagnel- good to see a few others have enjoyed it
Diskevra- tintagnel- might have been done the day before but never written up. Starts as for purple haze then goes left. Good to do an FA in South West, came close but Newberry always nicked them before I could return.
Corey Lewandoski- Whitehouses- some eliminated fun
Top route (only one)
Militia- Giggleswick- a Boulder problem
Top spankings- (basically been a year of spanking and poor head game)
Voyager sit- agonisingly close before xmas. This thing is really testing me mentally/breaking me. So much self doubt and some pretty miserable drive homes.
Bloodsport- Christmas Eve I rattled the crimp twice again. Just plain hurts but I will do what it takes
Monkey wedding- the realisation that I could possibly climb V15, came pretty close two days before I left, then got unlucky with weather.
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Hammerheads won't eat you - Pathetic Sharks sharks.
Love this, so much good shit done, great for psyche.
Unfortunately my year was fucking dire due to injury, I could stretch the brief to include ski descents etc but I won't
Top three boulder problems, UK
Repeated Bad Buoys 6a SS a few times at Clochindare Bay, never gets tiresome.
Top three new routes/problems put up
Dirtbag Ballet 6b eliminate done when crucial holds were wet on the below. Great moves, great line though...
Top Spankings
Double Tap into PPE linkup. Couple of sessions on this, first screwed due to seeping holds, then when it was in good nick I promptly forgot crucial sequence and started blowing the top moves. After watching an old vid I was all ready to go back, but them I destroyed my thumb joint.
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Eroica and Black Magic - Pentire, with Fiend and cheque. Great to see Fiend overcome his doubts on Black Magic. Quite a relief to see him reach the belay without slipping off the last moves as another climbing partner did, with rather serious consequences, 20 years ago.
It was you and your bloody down-to-earth supportiveness that overcame my doubts!! By the time I got to the last moves I had some decent gear in I think. Did I mention it was a bloody good effort on Eroica as that crux is nails (and a nice motive for doing it :)).
Shark: Great story AND photo of your High Tor new route, very cool. BTW I found El Guide Direct pretty sketchy, that committing crux really comes out of nowhere (in August let alone bloody November).
Glad to see midgets is still going strong with the shockingly low grade trad spankings. E2 and E9 on the same list, ace :)
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Corey Lewandoski- Whitehouses- some eliminated fun
What's this please?
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Voyager sit- agonisingly close before xmas. This thing is really testing me mentally/breaking me. So much self doubt and some pretty miserable drive homes.
Bloodsport- Christmas Eve I rattled the crimp twice again. Just plain hurts but I will do what it takes
Monkey wedding- the realisation that I could possibly climb V15, came pretty close two days before I left, then got unlucky with weather.
Getting spanked by one of britains hardest boulders and a v15 its a tough life. :strongbench:
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La Musee Imaginaire - Lovely day up at Curbar repeating stuff. Spent a while watching people lobbing themselves at the top move on this, then found a nice way to balance up it gently. Great problem!
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The rock up to the frumpy sidepull? If so that's where I've got to and it feels nails!!! It seems to hurt everything!! (So what's your way? ;) )
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Corey Lewandoski- Whitehouses- some eliminated fun
What's this please?
Start as for Hercules: Shothole RH, Crimp LH use plinth to jump to crimp on Crazy Leg Crom with RH, finish as normal. FA who knows!
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Shark: Great story AND photo of your High Tor new route, very cool. BTW I found El Guide Direct pretty sketchy, that committing crux really comes out of nowhere (in August let alone bloody November).
Thanks Fiend
I retreated off it and Nick took over and led it. There is a hidden friend placement mentioned in one of the guides which I only found when following it. Did you find it?
Sorry to read that you had a bad trip to Margalef despite good preparation.
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Eroica and Black Magic - Pentire, with Fiend and cheque. Great to see Fiend overcome his doubts on Black Magic. Quite a relief to see him reach the belay without slipping off the last moves as another climbing partner did, with rather serious consequences, 20 years ago.
It was you and your bloody down-to-earth supportiveness that overcame my doubts!! By the time I got to the last moves I had some decent gear in I think. Did I mention it was a bloody good effort on Eroica as that crux is nails (and a nice motive for doing it :)).
Shark: Great story AND photo of your High Tor new route, very cool. BTW I found El Guide Direct pretty sketchy, that committing crux really comes out of nowhere (in August let alone bloody November).
Glad to see midgets is still going strong with the shockingly low grade trad spankings. E2 and E9 on the same list, ace :)
Eroica was my most memorable teenage lead. I grew up in St Tudy, a half hour by bike from Pentire. It was only E2 in those days (89) but I crapped myself on leading the second pitch. A couple years later I did Darkenbad. I loved that crag, dark, brooding, scary in one hell of a setting. Good lead on an intimidating bit of rock. I envy you, you may even have inspired me back into Trad...
Edit:
Actually now confused. Rockfax have it at E4, I remember it as E2 and that's where thecrag.com puts it too. What's the shizzle?
And dug out my 1988 edition guide! Apparently it went down on the 3rd attempt!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170104/5d84f0dcbea996782e2da361d3ab1ac5.jpg)
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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Top three boulder problems,
UK Local
Pistol Whipping v9 FA - One of the absolute best problems I've climbed.
(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/q81/s960x960/14196035_679815018833882_8800953705998407936_o.jpg?oh=47bed9ed693a580449eb01bb001b6726&oe=58D8C1B9)
Oral Beast v10 - finishes with a thuggy mantel that I slowly peeled/punted from while whimpering why, why, why... glad to get er done.
(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14370210_10210695747058634_6314889289153314328_n.jpg?oh=7e30c8a309154d6251d99e3a48b31fe8&oe=58DF0A21)
Destroying My Apprentice v11 FA -
(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15894904_10211832856565661_3406121875239255641_n.jpg?oh=1ea793a7ccf02710d4f80178e3f62faf&oe=591B2E6E)
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Odins Revenge v9/10 Mt Lemmon, AZ - amazing steep compression next to a creek in an alpine forest.
(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14925242_10211181752328462_6269301406912987115_n.jpg?oh=40e8ba80f25f868e2af87191ba10c025&oe=58EE1800)
Was v8 Leavenworth, WA
Soul Train v8, Bend, OR
Top three new routes/problems put up
Anything on this boulder: 12 new lines put up
(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14192009_679814995500551_5945187952566751035_n.jpg?oh=64c1314553fe29f086febdfedef59dd6&oe=591E1BEB)
Top Spankings
Teenage kids - Nuff said
Also trying to climb/stay fit/train whilst adapting to new work/travel schedule...
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La Musee Imaginaire - Lovely day up at Curbar repeating stuff. Spent a while watching people lobbing themselves at the top move on this, then found a nice way to balance up it gently. Great problem!
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The rock up to the frumpy sidepull? If so that's where I've got to and it feels nails!!! It seems to hurt everything!! (So what's your way? ;) )
'Kinell that's a autocorrect classic. Should be crimpy!!!
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Edit:
Actually now confused. Rockfax have it at E4, I remember it as E2 and that's where thecrag.com puts it too. What's the shizzle?
The peg is no longer there
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Top boulder
problems sessions
Mushroom block, Arran. Mega session here, everything is worth doing, standout for me was the line left of Dan's new line Breakfast of champignons (aka crack project). Well worth a visit, if this was in the Churnet it'd be my favourite bit.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8290108/AL-1392.jpg)
Breakfast of Champignons
Did all the Hen stones aretes as the sunset at the end of a great day out with a big crew. Exquisite rock.
Summer Dad club session at Tanygrisiau - great highball venue.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8290108/AL-1642.jpg)
Two great days out at Ysgo and Talfarach for Fatneck's 40th. Perfect weather and vibes.
Also a good Burbage circuit (which was not by a long way my best day on grit but...) which might have been a points PB for the crag and gave some hope I might not be completely passed it.
Top trad climbs
Arran. Hardlands was very good, Skydiver not so much, but the South ridge was fantastic. Done with Dad club in the mist whilst the youth slouched off to the cafe in a huff.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8290108/AL-2.jpg)
Hardlands
Left-hand red wall. Amongst the epic stories I'd not realised this is mostly a perfect shield of golden quartzite more akin to granite, I'll be going back...
Trail of tears, Rhoscolyn Day hit from Sheffield with Dad club, about the only time this year I was actually onsighting something at a testing standard. Otherwise did too much seconding and repeating stuff I've done before.
Top winter climbs
Slightly frustrating, had some great (too good) weather which was spectacular but coupled with partner issues made for little roped climbing. Smith's route on the Ben was the highlight, done with Pat (on his first day on ice).
No sport climbs other than a couple of days in Cheedale trying Cry of despair. No FAs I can remember
Top spankings
1. Tales of Yankee Power. I can't onsight lime E5 off the couch so knew it was a slim chance, but also that I probably wouldn't have another chance to even get on one this year (see 2). Started well, then dithered; fail. Piss easy on second of course, should have trusted my instincts instead of being distracted by the chalk. There may be a metaphor for life here too.
2. Work, family as per usual. The only 'ambition' I've ever had was never to work full time, which I'm squarely failing at. If I had either time outside work or was making loads of money it might be more tolerable. The corollary is I'm sure if I was single in a van the family grass would look just as green. On the plus side family is getting easier and I'm more aware of where work needs to go.
3. Failing to get involved in Cheque's sea cliff project. I was really keen to get involved in any way, but didn't; see 2. Stuff like this genuinely annoys me. For months.
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Arran. Hardlands was very good, Skydiver not so much, but the South ridge was fantastic. Done with Dad club in the mist whilst the youth slouched off to the cafe in a huff.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8290108/AL-2.jpg)
Hardlands
That looks amazing. Gets E4 6a on UKC with a note saying it's been in the guides at E5 and E3, and this is just splitting the difference. What does it actually get? If it's E3 I'm keen. If it's E4 I'm cautious. If it's E5 I'm out.
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Arran. Hardlands was very good, Skydiver not so much, but the South ridge was fantastic. Done with Dad club in the mist whilst the youth slouched off to the cafe in a huff.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8290108/AL-2.jpg)
Hardlands
That looks amazing. Gets E4 6a on UKC with a note saying it's been in the guides at E5 and E3, and this is just splitting the difference. What does it actually get? If it's E3 I'm keen. If it's E4 I'm cautious. If it's E5 I'm out.
Yeah that looks MAXIBON (best adjective 2016)
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Hardlands does look very good. Such a cool feature that pocket! Bet it fills up nicely after a bit of rain too so you can wash your hands in it!! :P
JB Tanygrisiau looks well good - what's that problem in the pic?? Looking forward to the NWB Guide coming out if/when that happens!
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JB Tanygrisiau looks well good - what's that problem in the pic?? Looking forward to the NWB Guide coming out if/when that happens!
Hallt Fono - 6B+ - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=261935
The line on the far left of JB's pic is one of the best 7A's in North Wales
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Top routes
Privilege du Serpent
Tried and failed for ages on a previous trip, got a new high point on my first go this time. First 7c+.
Blocage Violent
The epitome of Ceuse, so good!
Freeborn Man
Spent a weekend sleeping under the stars, watching meteor showers and sitting round a campfire. The climbing was secondary but this is a good reminder.
Sweet smell of Success
Best i've done on Portland
Valley of the Blind
Best i've done in Cheddar, soft but good to feel like it was v. easy
Top boulders
King of Drunks
Best of a good few days in Wales with old friends, first 7a in a session.
Boysens Groove
Tried years ago on a great day out with Footwork, so good i must have done it three times this time.
Top spankings
Deep water soloing
It's fucking terrifying
Hall of Mirrors
I seem to have one cursory go each visit to the cuttings, not sure why it seems so hard to me given its supposed to be so soft.
Southern sandstone
It's made of sand, and i find it really difficult. Especially topping out into sandpits, and using all the small holds.
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La Musee Imaginaire - Lovely day up at Curbar repeating stuff. Spent a while watching people lobbing themselves at the top move on this, then found a nice way to balance up it gently. Great problem!
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The rock up to the frumpy sidepull? If so that's where I've got to and it feels nails!!! It seems to hurt everything!! (So what's your way? ;) )
Well it's still a pretty stiff pull on that sidepull to match feet on the right as per r-man's vid, but rather than going up to the arete with the left or just lobbing straight to the top, I cross over with the left to a fairly poor edge then just stand up gently and grab the top with RH. Probably not an issue for most but i'm a bit of a T-rex.
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Swift Undercut - Ticks all the boxes! Esoteric, FA, 1 move long and took a few sessions. https://goo.gl/photos/ksaRcxghDJWiM9WJ6
Hampers Hang, Stanage - What a cool sequence!
The Arete, St. Bees - Phenomenally good! The best of font transported to a sunny little seaside in the lakes.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Slim pickings this year.
Baloo, Manoury - Love that undercut.
Gargantoit/Assis, Gorges du Houx - Brill to spend new years day monkeying around on stuff like this with good friends in the forest.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Refraction, The Burren - Mainly because it reminds me of this pic that Mike Goldthorp took of a mate on it.
(http://i.imgur.com/cXKLhIr.jpg)
The Promised Land, Fairhead - Naively got on this to warm up thinking it was to E4 as Wall of Prey is to E5. Big fight but pulled through eventually.
Bold as Love + Low Profile, Avon - Amazing after work ramp session.
Top three sport routes UK
Gates of Greyskull, Lulworth - That move at the top! Phwoar!!
Secret Cabaret, Cheddar - Knuckling some tasty little crimps. yummy.
Academic, Avon - Narrowly avoided disaster by doing it shortly after dropping it from the surely-you-cant-drop-it-there jugs. Good to get it done after trying it on and off for a couple of years.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Vadage, Mallorca - Proper full beans onsight above a bit of a swell. Turned the fear off, nailed some little crimps and got pumped at the top. What DWS is all about.
Mandagora, Siurana - Went out with no prep so was well chuffed to get up this onsight, normally shit at the pumpy stuff.
Iguanadon, Mallorca - DOuble heel-toe rest on the middle of an outrageous roof. What's not to like?!
Top Spankings
Howling Hound, Porth Ysgo - Awful tactics and about 20 laps (minus the last move).
Swift Undercut SDS - Just really hard. Managed all the easy moves but nowhere near the crux.
In the Night Every Cat is Black - Easy, easy, easy, rest, try ha...and off. Rinse and repeat.
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That looks amazing. Gets E4 6a on UKC with a note saying it's been in the guides at E5 and E3, and this is just splitting the difference. What does it actually get? If it's E3 I'm keen. If it's E4 I'm cautious. If it's E5 I'm out.
It's probably E4, but not a hard one. E3 would be a bit harsh, E5 a joke. The tricky bits are not quite where you'd expect them, but it's a very high quality pitch.
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Sleeping Crack just looks amazing too
(https://bigstonecountry.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/p1010984.jpg)
I've still not been to Arran. I should be arrested for that crime, at least need to do Souwester Slabs sometime.
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Quite a crap year for me for memorable routes really. Not done much that required lots of effort and everything I did was pretty much 1st or second go.
The only standout route was Espresso in Costa Blanca. Really nice climbing and one I failed on 3 years previous. It was great to come back and remember the sequence and retro-flash it easily.
On the same trip I got four 7a routes (or harder) in a day for the first time. Three flashed up to 7b/+ and one which took two goes due to a soaking crux. Brilliant day which ended in a screaming battle with a 7a followed by a trip to a Spa.
I barely bouldered this year and I've not really had any spankings due to not having a project. Pretty nice year overall.
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Loving this thread :)
Trad
Coeur de Lion - bit of a life goal this one.
Blockhead can't believe this doesn't get done, probably the best pitch I've done in the UK. Has it even had a second ascent? Would be really interested to know!
Bold As Love pleased to do this ground up despite the drizzle. I really rate this wall!
FA
Dance Therapy First thought this might be possible several years ago but wrote it off as too dangerous. Took all the manky fixed gear out of the parent routes and it's now (imo) the best way up this wall, it's super pumpy and has exactly the right amount of gear - it's pretty safe (well… if you know what gear to take...), but got some big fall potential!
Space Cadets - mainly a linkup of existing routes (The Hunted, Coeur de Lion, Blockhead, and a new rising traverse finish that takes in most of the Fire Escape), but what a day out. Very memorable watching Robbie split his tip and then forget where all the holds were at the end of the crux runout on Coeur, was so impressed he held it together and kept fighting through to the chains! Also won't forget the crucial gear placement falling to bits leaving me ridiculously run out on crumbly choss on the top pitch. Awesome to do a physically sustained multipitch route in the UK.
(Long Quarry Point project ~8a+) - I bolted it in 2016, although I only managed it yesterday, I reckon that pretty much counts. Need to decide on a name for it now! Probably my best new route ever (it's between Up The Styx and Shadowbeast at Long Quarry Point. Get on it!)
DWS - Mallorca
Weatherman Nearly died on this. Fell from the upper roof, landed too well, went really deep and blacked out. Regained consciousness after bobbing back up to the surface and spent 15 minutes dangling on a rope ladder coughing up blood, and then several hours lying down and vomiting seawater. I was too battered to climb for four days afterwards! Simultaneously proud and embarrassed that I went back to finish it off.
Carlos Checa - I LOVE CRANKING ON POCKETS SO MUCH
In The Night, Every Cat Is Black - Really psyched to hear that others on this thread have found this hard - I found the crux brutally difficult, and was a bit dismayed by the '7b+' comments on UKC.
DWS - UK
Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage my anti style. Crimped so hard that one hand cramped up.
Davey Jone's Lock Off Best rock in the UK? Incredible position traversing out above that cavern!
Sport UK
Starkiller Base (aka Death Star with a little bit of footwork allowed) Hardest thing I've done on a rope.
Secret Cabaret been trying this for 6 years, came close several times but was always thwarted my more holds falling off. I think it now climbs better than it ever did before!
Crucifix Kiss ! - another old nemesis, thought this could be my first 7c back in 2010. Turns out I was hopelessly optimistic, I think for my height, it's harder than any 7c+ I have ever done!
Was It You? - Mutlipitch chosseteering in minging conditions with my old comrade-in-arms from Kyrgyzstan, brought back some memories - I even had an upset stomach to complete the trip down memory lane! Such a good route.
Siurana sport
Aizkolari Was too ill for Siurana stamina, so found an old school route on pockets instead. I love this style so much!
Pota d'Elefant Managed to figure 4 past the crux - SO psyched!
Mandragora Just incredible, dreamy onsight experience.
Boulder-route
Arch Angels - Well, it's basically a route, and I had to shave my legs and gaffe tape rubber to my legs in order to stand a chance…. but I enjoyed it!
Looking through my scorecard, it looks like I had much better taste in routes than boulders this year!
Spankings and near death experiences:
Weather Man
Tabou Zizi - Took far too long to work out a sequence, then started making good progress right at the end of the trip - and then got a bit injured from pulling with numb fingers. I will be back.
Angels Extension - Punted the last hard move too many times. Just before the bat ban, I went back at night for 'good conditions' - and some goons had lit a massive fire in the cave filling it with smoke and grease!!
Oesophagus - the most polished E1 in the universe. I got up it, just, but I nearly exploded.
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Just realised that I only climbed outdoors about 5 times last year, though that included climbing in Font and Arran so at least it's been a mixed bag!
Top 3 boulders
Pine Tree Arete (6c+), Caley Crags
Attempted once in an afternoon after an early finish at work, but burned out just as I sussed the sequence, luckily got a pass for a week later and got back to finish the job without too much drama.
U2 Wall (6b+), West Vale
Only went there for a look around and wound up trying this. Totally my style and a touch blinkered but put it to bed without too much trouble.
Roadside Arete SDS (6b), Clach An Fhion, Arran
After a week in Arran which was hot, humid, damp and therefore midgy as hell, on the final day it cleared and a breeze picked up so I rushed out. Really hadn't expected this to be as good as it turned out to be, and literally a 1 min drive from our cottage as well.
Top Spankings
Johnny Longer (6c+), Woodhouse Scar
Project from my local crag, and a shit one at that - grovelling start, massive dab potential and an arse-dragging start. Still can't see it off though - perhaps it's my subconscious telling me I actually love it.
De Fil En Auguille (6c), Franchard Cuisiniere
Turned up out of shape, a bit hungover and feeling the pressure if this being a session on "my project" without anyone else there wanting to have a go. Not the ideal situation. Got nowhere on it, then realised when reviewing videos I'd missed a bit of the sequence that'd probably make it easier.
Repeating (in general)
I just need to stop doing this. On the few occasions I've been out this year I've got sucked into trying to re-do something I did long, long ago and failing. Until I'm back in shape I just need to learn to walk away.
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This thread is fantastic, and it's great to see how much people get done on ze rocks.
I'd like to contribute, but having climbed basically two problems in 2016, the choice would be a bit forced...
The trip to the Dolomites at the end of October, though, has been a majestic event, one of the best ever.
Climbing some board projects has also been quite cool.
Oh well...
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I think with the effort that goes into your board problems they are worth a separate category, Top 3 Board problems!
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I think with the effort that goes into your board problems they are worth a separate category, Top 3 Board problems!
Ahahah that's quite right, but you'll be somehow disappointed I'm afraid! I think I only climbed three board projects last year!
:devangel:
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Blockhead can't believe this doesn't get done, probably the best pitch I've done in the UK. Has it even had a second ascent? Would be really interested to know!
What makes you say this Ian? Would be surprised if Caff hadn't done it, or some other folk either back in the day or more recently. Think I saw a pic of Dave Rudkin on it on Facebook at some point. Whether he did it or not I don't know.
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Good effort pn the LQP project Ian! And glad to hear someone else found Oesophagus hard!
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Top bloc
Pure line - one of the best roof cracks in france?
Otherwise not a very bouldery year!
Top routes:
L'ami de tout le monde, céüse. First 8b, a route that had a bit of aura for me since belaying a strong friend on it many years ago, three trips over one year to manage it...most satisfyong climb so far!
Pure finger, annot. Very nice and very thin splitter with a dyno finish.
Alix punk des vergons, Verdon. Not mega hard, especially for verdon, but still epic: climbed it mid august after 3 weeks off, no skin and split my middle finger's tip on the 6th pitch (out of 10). Abseiling at that point would be tricky, i had no tape and still wanted to freeclimb the route (although in alternate lead style)
Top spanking
Surely one try on Duel where i was nail-crimping and my nails started to bend backwards...a bleedy and messy affair, although not as painful as it sounds (it was freezing cold...)
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I retreated off it and Nick took over and led it. There is a hidden friend placement mentioned in one of the guides which I only found when following it. Did you find it?
Sorry to read that you had a bad trip to Margalef despite good preparation.
Hmmm, can't recall anything being particularly obscurely hidden, but I do hunt around very diligently for gear so probably got it in. I remember the crux suddenly all starting to feel distinctly committing and uphill after a fairly reassuring start. Not a soft warm-up!
Margalef, well, it would have been a better time if I hadn't sulked so much!! Partly my fault for being too focused with pushing myself in an area which is totally unsuitable for consistent onsight performance. i wrote up some climbs recently and for a F6c climber I did some ace stuff...
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Top three UK problems
Too Drunk at The Roaches
The Arete in Matlock quarries
Simple start at Mynydd y Graig. As much for the situation and the solitude as for the climbing
Top three problems abroad
Apea Horete at Kylamalampi, Finland. Worth 6c of anyone's money
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cOUIsFqTRcoGZRBjpmj8Ct4IOQshud-kRD07D9KP1GaqDcfIF0m8SbbWmv9XmMmSyJkeAZ-WSPkpuPQPhoA1OPukmk_8ja1F46LMPKUA65DBj2eMl49-4PHG00nIXrUDa4NWfsQwAxa8RtrXf7aOOT0XAIfN28-k_0LadBZ9T9nS-0ZOebC24J5S3w1dqT1-w9rRvIYfsdcGcp3POSoImZv1nfWAQb2eaaelbGHoJRuEZIND8LNaYnesRwTODLyACRAkhhUeiJwhhDMFV2SdaFijV4ZwBrdLAi-gwZTa4cgvxKjNuUhFoQuBojRZaZck5Wv0kn0ogvA-7w8I-0MgW_fdQ74B01uZzALC71Y_O8m7XPjxtp9sHVPVUoMPPJR4bozY_EhNJw842MXvbwe9PjKtz5ClCdkCmkcX-lQaq3WTzizL-OmtjbcAOMw80MNX0sVsZsk8dfreorLFBbW_Yi-BlFwegdB-fbTIPOQLWMkKJUAZQhkffMmHm9wAHH-wkY8sdggspl4Psk9BwbPbSLW4wh4tNEE8dwxRo2IFD3bdvjqM5ldcsBIYa6TlwujKUox4mRHG8l7qk8ycXDeexi9Vh90-erwTrEed3i2uI4hGHvXUKYC-=w373-h662-no)
Neekeriporvari 7a at Murronkivvi, Finland
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y-Gw1nTa0dTeurvEN-5TS7Y4OWuJZgqGo35F4cwx7voiyz68xumhqyE96QPNffvFrJvOnkULRjjT3MhNsYZ4dgWUrLZhMy_ngJ-2jBYNCE234oclOUk9VvH4Wg0J-XZ8eDevhl_pfl9yU7r2zyuZyRlq5xNnSsVZ7yGXNTwot_JySfgoswzfpmvP29o-K-Tx8ll5_jg_NK5P2eUXrmopbK68Nv-07FsoRYhvWMt6AL522vuL9yI98n5Yv0RzYbFH9JifYLULGWlRCYmY6HhV1Pxzi_lCPElLveD3wr2-xNN_5cAjPhGdO6RLJF16-AKHR8VrKstaf2tm9jSAh5Bl9r5rCus2_lZl5lMdrdC7eFg10viAAwY5U6DHpO7oLTkzlCW_Z6eb1JlXQ4XfctkeP_RcZ7D1G9WxBbPirsb6UnGtPHejhGpnt1csNB82-to7YNnmWF4Tj2TWJOO1_IUKytHPbu7WwF79_LeJFFgi7LJ7-AEl5_j7mLiKGHhhysNo-r3rj947lNV1_HmjJgQic6IFwE90oNAq6-basUMqCETHPs4hUxAXhF2f83740dZZ6xPW6dv_kTT0b5An6S_151JvUkvVnsmtchqDynd_EZK4wUUc=w373-h662-no)
Didnt do any routes apart from one afternoon in the bluebells at Stoney West doing easy stuff - and maybe soloing Microbe at Stanage if that counts ?
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Blockhead can't believe this doesn't get done, probably the best pitch I've done in the UK. Has it even had a second ascent? Would be really interested to know!
What makes you say this Ian? Would be surprised if Caff hadn't done it, or some other folk either back in the day or more recently. Think I saw a pic of Dave Rudkin on it on Facebook at some point. Whether he did it or not I don't know.
There's a comment in the Ground Up guide saying that it hadn't been repeated as of 2012. Wouldn't surprise me at all if Caff had done it since though!
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I also love this thread each year.
Best multi-pitch frightener
Terry, an unknown E5 up on the Exmoor coast:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=426323
An esoteric gem, and quite possibly the second ascent. Climbed after only a couple of hours sleep due to the kids playing up the night before. Cut-off by the incoming tide shortly after starting the first pitch. Scary rock and wild climbing - absolutely brilliant. Get to it people!
An honourable mention in this category also goes to Vagabond at Tintagel.
Best single pitch trad route
Pacemaker at Sharpnose, because its one I've been saving for ages at one of my favourite crags and I only just scraped to the top with terminal pump.
Best sports route
La Crème at Ansteys, because of the great techy moves and the sense of satisfaction from finally getting it done after a lot of effort.
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Super thread! Mainly very jealous and in full agreement with this...
On the few occasions I've been out this year I've got sucked into trying to re-do something I did long, long ago and failing. Until I'm back in shape I just need to learn to walk away.
Need to stop doing this too!
Also...
Top Actual Climbing Experience
My 40th Birthday Bash! Great weather and despite the fact that I've been doing it for years, I am always super humbled by the amount of people that turn up and this last year was the best attended by a long shot. Makes for an amazing weekend and I really should say a massive thank you to everyone who made the effort - Thanks! Just need to sort dates out for this year now!
Top Fishing Experience of 2016 :fishing:
Ellerdine Lakes for my 40th Birthday - caught two double figure trout in one day in a bag of 14 fish overall. Far and away my best day's fishing ever :)
https://www.instagram.com/p/BBDyZDKzAnE/?taken-by=fatneck1976&hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/p/BBDSBKvTArT/?taken-by=fatneck1976&hl=en
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Top Fishing Experience of 2016 :fishing:
If we are allowing non-climbing related events;
Best Snowboarding day
Bluebird with a foot of fresh at Pras de Lys - me, my brother and a mate, off piste fresh tracks all day - almost too much fun, sublime
Best Surfing Day
Fantastic surf at Famara Lanzarote - 10 k roadbike to get there, waist to chest high Atlantic swells in boardies and on a knackered out hire longboard that was actually perfect for the waves.
Best Ski Day
Touring Loch Avon Basin - Midweek day off work for Fresh tracks in Y Gully, Castlegates Gully, Smooth Chute then Lurchers in the fading light of day, with final 100m walk back to car park just as it was getting dark.
Best 24 hours
Aurora Photographing at Banff and Sandend 11 pm friday night until 1 am Saturday, surfing great waves all morning, the fun afternoon mountain biking at Moray Monster Trails. Utterly exhausted, but delighter afterwards.
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It's been a funny year, I've not done loads of climbing in 2016, especially in the UK, but what I have done has been pretty good quality. In July we moved to Perth, Australia, I thought the move would totally kill my climbing, but it was not the case.
Top three boulder problems, UK
One Man and His Dogmas (7B+), a great highball, that's the only real stand out UK problem I have done in 2016.
https://vimeo.com/158354674
Top Boulder Problem, Abroad
Back in October we had a good trip to New Zealand, it was all a bit last minute, Helen found out there was a conference in Auckland and she suggested we make a holiday out of it. I thought it would have been rude not to sample Castle Hill for a week while Helen was doing her thing up in Auckland. I found out that Jack Folkes and Watson were still there as well, so we met up for a few days and had a really good time. It was nice to meet JackAus, anothe UKB member. We climbed loads of classics, some real unique Castle Hill stuff, but didn't even scratch the surface. So. Much. Rock.
Charlie Brown (V9) up at Wuthering Heights, it looks like it's been taken out of Fontainbleau and plonked on the hill, so good.
Juggernaut (V9) was another beaut, right in the heart of Quantum Field.
Midnight Milk (V6) was a great bit of weirdness.
https://vimeo.com/189786399
I have also managed to get a few classics ticked off around Perth.
Thin Grin (V10) is the local classic test piece, it took a few sessions and some cold, early morning starts to get the most out of the tiny granite crimps.
https://vimeo.com/176417404
Jonesy's Arete (V8) is definitely one of the best arete problems I have climbed, stunning location as well. The other side of the arete is still a project! :)
https://vimeo.com/198180131
Top Trad Route UK
Reservoir Dogs! I first tried this with Dunning in 2014ish, it was a totally miserable and cold day and the top of the route was wet, I made absolutely no progress and pretty much wrote it off, thinking it was too hard. I decided to go back up there in March 2016, after an abseil inspection and a play around on the bottom I decided to make it my goal to do the route before our Australian adventure.
The difficulty of the crux really surprised me, if the conditions weren't spot on, it just wasn't possible (for me). After a few sessions and a few big falls from the top, I finally got it.
A perfect route in a stunning location. Happy :)
https://vimeo.com/163840362
Top Three Problems Put Up
I didn't think I would be climbing much in or around Perth, never mind climbing new lines, good ones as well! Steel City Groove and Half the World Away are up there with some of the best problems I have done, anywhere.
https://vimeo.com/182053235
https://vimeo.com/181463319
https://vimeo.com/183098094
It's definitely been a year for quality, not quantity.
Bring on 2017!! :bounce:
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Top
three two boulder problems, UK
Didn't do much UK bouldering due to not spending that much time in the UK. Master Kush and Taylor Made will suffice for having fun moves.
Top three five boulder problems, abroad
The Wheel of Life (Australia) – The world classic of the genre, and it's my kind of genre: trickery and endurance in a roof. Didn't think I'd try it on our trip, then ended up doing some sections and links and suddenly realised it was on. Good for my ego to add myself to the list of beasts who've done it 8) and even better to not feel like it was really that hard. Went back and did it with Megos' variation start and the direct finish too, since we were in there avoiding the rain just to show off. I'm such an arrogant prick. Lifetime tick.
Killer Dwarf (Australia) – Awesome movement, classic Klem problem, dodging rain showers on an early morning solo mission, siphoning out a huge pond using an in-situ garden hose and more walking and faff than I ever thought justifiable for a boulder problem.
Lost for Life (Australia) - Not because it's the best, but because when I first sat down and tried to pull on I thought (and said) "I'll never climb a problem like this". 1 hard, basic pull into a 7C exit to make an 8A+ is not my normal forte. Nice to manage to climb outside my normal zone for a change.
Black Shadow (Rocklands) - Great problem. Psyched to smash it out in a session having nearly died in a car crash a couple of days earlier.
Caroline (Rocklands) – Some people don’t like it but I really did.
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Huh what??
Top three two sport routes UK
Power Ranger (Malham) - Cool crux sequence which I did with a fun flick. Pity it's not got a bigger/harder headwall. I really enjoy hanging out on the catwalk being bullied by Jee and Carl :)
Toadal Recall (Malham) - In almost by default due to how little UK sport I did, but mainly in as it was the first really crimpy route I did after my volar plate injury and thus was a nice mental boost just before heading off for the long trip
Top three five routes abroad (any genre)
Groove Train (Australia) – One of those world classic, must do, life list kinda routes. Took the big fall from slapping the jug at the end of the hard climbing, caught my leg behind the rope, flipped upside down, had long enough to contemplate how badly the situation could end and finally got lucky and swung rightwards into the cave on Snake Flake thus not smashing my head. Big fall. Somehow summoned the mental fortitude for another go that day to finish it off. Lots of power screaming. Brilliant experience.
Punks in the Gym (Australia) - Like Malham but with slopey footholds. Not my favourite climbing of the trip, but lovely rock and another world classic must do. Groove Train and this are basically why I wanted to go to Aus. I miss being away and living in a van!!!!
Bad Girls Club (Rifle, USA) - Whilst I find it an endless source of frustration that climbers don't use apostrophes in their route and boulder problem names, this made me happy. We switched our plans for the USA to go to Rifle and it was ace. Went there with this in mind, got on it on day 1 whilst jetlagged and slowly but surely broke it down over the next 2 weeks. Steep, thuggy fun.
Waka Flocka Flame (Rifle, USA) - A really enjoyable journey up and across the project wall. Heard about these routes for years, nice to go and do them. Climbing well, fighting hard but staying just in control, perfect. Savoured every moment on the easier headwall with a big smile inside, looking around the canyon and down to the ever supportive locals on the road.
The Tube (RRG, USA) - If Font and Rifle had a bastard love child and locked in it the cellar for its childhood this would be the result. A beautiful feature in an area that's not normally feature climbing. Don't know if the rock will hold up to extensive use/abuse though, perhaps it's good that it's currently not in the guides. Makes it kinda cooler that it's a little off the radar too. Balancy, tricksy climbing that can be tamed with knees.
Honourable mentions: Serpentine, Eye of the Tiger, Streetfighter, Braguetasso
Top three one new routes/problems put up
For once I get to write something in this bit, although I'm still just as much (even more?) of a parasitic leach on the climbing community...
Smash and Grab (Oudtshoorn, South Africa) - New routing with no new bolts or moves involved, just doing a harder start into an extension of the adjacent route. Still, to my mind the obvious line up the middle of the crag and a lot of fun despite the 33C heat.
Top Spankings
The Viking (Oudtshoorn) – Totally kicked my ass. Way harder than the ‘harder’ route next to it. Couldn’t even do the moves in isolation.
Pendragon (Rocklands) – Too freakin’ weak to hold that hold. Having seen the vid of Cailean snapping his pulley on it probably didn’t help me muster the required try hard.
Garbage Planet (Rifle) – One to return for, though I need to learn to do enormous dynos on 50 degree walls first! Reckon the School board might come in handy for that...
Everything since returning home – weak, weak, weak!
Best Life Tick
Getting engaged to the girl who makes me smile all the time. :wub:
A damn good year for tripping, and thus a mediocre one for UK stuff. The next year years decade??? :'( will likely reverse that... or at least for a few years I'd guess until Ella and I get bored, sack it all off and have some more adventures again. Long live trips!!!
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Will - which crags near Perth did you visit?
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Was a year of little climbing, lots of training and some cool numbers when I got out which was good and bad in equal measure. It would be nice to get out more but that just isn't possible at the moment. Doing my hardest sport route to date and equalling hardest boulder was really amazing and made all the fingerboarding / pull ups feel worthwhile.
Top three boulder problems, UK
Slotted Wall 7a+, Bovey Woods
First 7a+ I've got in one visit.
Brionified 7a, Neath Abbey
Flashing this made me realise I should be climbing harder than 7a+. A good aim for next year.
Help the Aged 7a, Stanage
Top sport route UK
Insatiable 7b+, Cheddar
First route at this grade and my 3rd (I think) session on it. Felt like all the training for the Spain trip really paid off. Got a vital beta suggestion from a friend and got it next go. Felt really really pleased. I've been stuck on 7b for a fair few years.
No other ascents to report. Some other routes on the go.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None to report this year (hangs head in shame)
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Went to Siurana with some people from off here and others. I did some great routes up to 6c+. I can't remember the names of a lot of them. Went to an amazing crag at Margalef for the day too. Amazing area, great routes, great people. Lots of drinking, chewing the fat, laughs, the good stuff that happens on a good trip.
Near miss of the year
Techtonics 7b, Neath Abbey
Fell off the last (easy) move of this after a beta / brain failure. Although I didn't get it done it felt like a real step forwards as I've never climbed 7b before. I tried it after I'd done a lot of other climbing. I feel really optimistic about getting it done on a return visit.
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Top three boulder problems - UK
Did a tiny bit of UK bouldering but nothing that warrants entry into a top 3 list
Top three sport routes - UK
None
Top three trad routes - UK
The Broken Man, The Chasms, Isle of Man.
A great route, bouldery, boldery start, gear, bouldery middle, gear, then relative glory romping with further gear. Second ascent of a future Dougie Hall classic.
Eroica, Pentire
Didnt do the top pitch due to horrendous weather but what a lump of rock in a great location and a reunion with climbing partners of old made for easily the most memorable day of climbing in 2016
Sacre Couer, Blackchurch
Same trip, was raining all morning in Bude, decided to chance Blackchurch, stopped raining when we got there, we all did the route in lovely weather, then it started raining again. A great route and a perfect opportunity.
The Moon, Gogarth South Stack
This is an honorary mention as I didnt lead the crux pitch, but it was my climbing partners first E3 and is the probably the ascent that runs closest to Eroica for most memorable of 2016. Not because there was any epics, or fuss or problems but just because it was great.
Top three boulder problems - non-UK
None
Top three sport routes - non-UK
El Espinazo del Diablo, Margalef
A tufa route, I hate tufa climbing and find it desperate. And true to form I found this to be desperate, but I actually quite enjoyed it. Didn't feel any easier than the adjacent 7c...
Estilson, Margalef
Steep powerful start, then lengthy pleasantness.
Bon Rotllo, Margalef
#1 sons first 6a lead.
Top three trad - non-UK
None
UK trad was the highlight of 2016 by a long way, the Margalef ticks would be long forgotten in a more productive year I'm sure. Hopefully more climbing will be done in 2017...
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2016 was the first year I've ever tried following a training plan and done any proper structured sessions. Still yet to be convinced that it paid off as it felt like a lot of sacrificing outdoor climbing for and I never had a period when I felt properly 'on it' like the previous year - just tired from training all the time. I learnt a lot from it though and hopefully can tweak it this year.
Top three boulder problems - UK
Don't really boulder outside anymore so nothing to report.
Top boulder problem - abroad
Rubis Sur L'Ongle, Font
Scraping my way up this just about salvaged a soaking wet trip to Font at Easter. It started pissing down after my first couple of tries on it and there was water pouring into my eyes as I topped out.
Top three sport routes - UK
Toadal Recall, Malham
I tried this many years ago and remember getting totally shut down on it so it was nice to go back and tick it off in a quick session on a weekend hit from Bristol.
Bird of Paradise, Cheddar
Felt desperate for the grade but certainly one of the most memorable sport routes I've done in the UK. Great climbing on perfect rock and in a pretty awesome position above the gorge.
Eurofighter, Shipwreck Cove
A steep and rare (for the SW) endurance style route in a beautiful location. Took just long enough to get properly involved with but not so much that I'd started getting frustrated. Now for Helvetia this year...
Top three sport routes - abroad
Lourdes, El Chorro
After the usual xmas indulgences I started the year off with a surprise O/S of this in the first days of Jan. Definitely felt like one ticked off the lifetime list.
In the Night Every Cat is Black, Diablo
Doing Ejector Seat and then this both first go in a day was pretty special. Especially whilst being heckled by megaphone. Good crew, good times.
Los Racos di Cantalos Extension, Arhi, Kalymnos
I just love tufas so much and this is 50m of pretty much only that. Also my first 8a+ onsight. Even if it is in Kalymnos. But Gaz Parry didn't O/S it so I'm taking the + for it! :tease:
Top three trad routes - UK
Always the Sun, Pembroke
Certainly some of the best climbing I've done on gear and a properly inspirational line.
Muy Caliente!, Pembroke
Had absolutely no intention of getting on this or any other hard trad at the start of the year until Heason convinced me to have a look while he was working it. Don't think it ever warranted the E10 grade but I was surprised that it came together so quickly and then felt easy on lead. No spicy times.
Point Blank, Pembroke
At the risk of seeming grade obsessed this has to be on here. The rock in Stennis Ford is just so good.
Top spankings
Shot by Both Sides, Pembroke
This was one of many occasions during the summer when I was completely fucked from training and just got a complete schooling.
El Chocco, Brean Down
Turning up at the crag I boldly said I'd just repeat all the up routes I'd done before for a bit of mileage. Didn't quite go to plan as I had to redpoint Chulilla and then flailed for about 45mins trying to get over the roof on El Chocco. And that was me done for the day. Embarrassing.
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Why not jump it, absolutely loving reading through this thread. A year in part of slaying past demons but also of continued failure slaying new ones. This was also the year I built a board at home and my only regret is not doing it years earlier.
Top 3 Boulder Problems UK
Only a few days in the UK this year and all on the grit in Spring but a bunch of things I'd wanted to do.
Master Kush, Rivelin
Always wanted to do this and didn't disappoint, took a little time committing to that weird right hand but really cool.
The Terrace, Burbage
Again, on the list for ages and a nice problem.
Ron's Slab (The one on the pebble), Stanage
delightfully committing top, only one problem left for the full pebble tick now.
Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad
Gourmandise Raccourci, Cuvier Rempart
Tried it a year and a half prior and felt on that nails/doable boundary but this time it felt easy, with specific moves and parts of moves that had been giving me so much trouble feeling casual. So pleasing to feel actual progression. Turned out to be the last good day of the trip so went off and did a bunch of other leftover things instead of flailing on the lower start but one day I'll be back to hopefully jump on it.
Sky Stand, Rocklands
I didn't finish it, a crushing disappointment to be elaborated on below, but damn its just so good, even just the top is so damn good!
Flying Guitar Thief, Rocklands
Maybe the biggest fuck-yeah moment all year was latching this jug, maybe the best, biggest, silliest and most fun dyno I've ever done. Just enough of a fight to be meaningful without actually taking significant time from the trip, its just great.
Top Spankings
Sky
Well shit, that didn't go to plan. I reckon I was just about strong/good enough to do it if I had everything go my way and they just didn't - temps shot up just as we hit project time and I ended up trying it right at the end of the trip while noticeably weaker that at the start, still, really always knew that something like that could happen and I should have jumped on it day 1. Anyway, the experience was great, can't think of a problem I've ever tried better than this, at least for what I want from a problem, and I almost feel privileged to have spent time on it.
Those 2 board projects I had up Nov-May
A pinch problem and a crimp one, either would have been the hardest I've still climbed to date. On the crimp line I eventually magic-ed through the crux and then dropped the comparatively easier top moves, then of course never got there again, with the pincher I made progress, actual tangible progress but it was designed to be 2 notches above my level at the time to push me up one, and it did its job perfectly. Eventually they got replaced and a lot of the motivation to build my own board was down to hating losing these types of projects, but these will be 2 which stick in my mind for years to come.
smeary heel hooks on hard things
I had a list of things I'd wanted to try that were probably out of my league in Rocklands, mostly to find what was really needed from me at a higher level, and damn, I've gotta get better at heel hooks again! relearned how to place while crawling into the 8s a few years ago and looks like I need some more schooling again. I've become good at keeping tension fairly front on but now I have to learn to do so while doing a large complex move with my heel basically on smears. A nice spanking in that I roughly understand it and was kinda looking for one, but an unexpected one. Nothing a board reset can't fix.
3 Most satisfying vengeance ticks
Carnage, Cuvier
Why did I always find it hard? No idea, but now its done, and I will never touch it again.
Deliverance Traverse, Stanage
Likewise, just something about those foot pebbles. I strapped up my stiffest shoes and reached for glory.
Weichei, Rocklands
After so much joint disappointment and pain 2 years ago it was dispatched in a session by both me and my friend. Feels good.
3 things to go back for
Sky
Still disappointed by this 4 months later, still can't believe I let it slip away. Not sure when I'll go back, but when I do it will be for vengeance.
Duel
Holy crap I can actually do this! Only had half an hour at the end of a day but it feels so possible, like if I put in a session or 2 there's a non-negligible chance that I will do this climb, and for Duel, something I literally never thought I could ever do, something not ever even really worth considering until then, any chance of success feels worthwhile. One of the most exciting moment of the year.
Golden Shadow
Was as out of my league as I expected it to be but threw in a session and a half just to see what was needed from me to boost up to that level. Lots, of course, but now I know roughly what that is and I can work on it. One day I will be back, maybe when I am I'll have improved enough to do this. One can only hope
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2016 was pretty much a tale of injuries for me, certainly meagre pickings in terms of getting things done.
Top 3 Boulder Problems, UK
Enchantress, Forest Rock
No idea on the grade, I knee-barred it into oblivion. Regardless of grade it's a great problem and satisfying to tick it in a session. A little bit disappointed I only managed one session here as the other problems look great.
Fight on Black, Widdop
Took a punt on trying this in June as a finger injury precluded trying anything that involved crimping. I went from not being able to pull on to ticking it just before it got too warm.
Rob's Wall Stand, Eskdale
Probably the first time I committed to crimping with my right hand since I injured it. A great top move, just a shame the rock is so sharp!
Sport routes
Finger injuries and peak lime do not make happy bedfellows. First time in 5 years I've not climbed a sport 8.
Top 3 Trad routes, UK
After blowing off the dust and cobwebs on my rack, a day at Castle Naze provided the only 3 trad ticks of the year
Keep Arete, VS
A nice warm up for the day and pleased to see that I can still remember how to place gear
The Scoop, HVS
The main event. Always wanted to do this since seeing the classic photo, although I'll admit I didn't do it barefoot. Didn't disappoint.
The Crack, VS
The only other climb I did that day so sneaks in by default.
Top 3 Boulder Problems, Abroad
Hybris, Fontainebleau
Should have ticked this in a trip over the new year but my elbows gave out on the final rockover at the top. Satisfying to return in March for the tick.
Black Bloc, Val Masino
Spent 2 weeks in Val Masino which was probably the best two weeks bouldering I had all year as it was about the only two weeks I spent injury free. Great sequence of moves with a remergence style rockover at the top, followed by highball padding to get off the boulder
Foxy Lady, Val Masino
Probably the best tick of the trip. Font 7c in a session is pretty much my limit. Got through the start only to fluff a heel move due to lack on concentration. It then took me ages to get through the start again. Only just held it together at the top as fatigue set it.
Honourable mention
The entire Safran circuit at Beauvais Hameau (Bleau.info) (https://bleau.info/hameau/circuit136.html). 100 problems of unspoilt sandstone goodness. No pads, just a small rucksack and a pair of shoes. Best problem - number 60, the 3+ climbers Deliverance.
Top Spankings
Injuries - Started the year with pretty bad golfers elbow, picked up a niggling pulley injury in February. Due to sheer stupidity on my part on a Font trip I managed to make it a whole lot worse meaning the best part of 6 months off. Recovery coincided with the trip to Italy but injured a pulley on the other hand on my last day >:(.
To top it all off on the Eve of departure for a year off wound up in Northern General having my appendix out.
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Have got lingering man-flu but reading the thread and writing this has cheered me up
Top 3 UK Problems
Famine 7A – Potato Cave Saw this on a Tops Off film (?) and had to seek it out. Satisfying to get a handful of that barrel shaped blob in the conglomerate. Becoming a Games of Thrones tourist trail extra disturbed the end of a quiet session but also provided some entertainment.
Virgin Wall Traverse 7A – Churnet
Parklife 7A - The P Didn’t do the FA but did get to name it!
Top 3 Non UK Problems
Arête Right of the Fin 6B+ Glendalough At the end of a good day, which saved the best until last; deserted valley, slightly high, very fatigued, good fight.
Lapin Au Canard 7A Isatis Hautes Plaines Struggled on a sweaty, over chalked evening but cleaned it up before I left and it went steadily early the following morning.
Beware 6A Carrickfin Perfect day. This one was tricky.
Top 3 New Problems
Mainly what this year has been about so deserves a grit and a lime list!
Top 3 New Limestone
Miner’s Ten 7A+- Miner’s Ten Long, long traverse into the best up problem. Lots of visits to nail this and some Churnet stamina training required, hopefully I’ll be as fit as this again at some point this year!
Human,Kind 6C+ The P This might get overlooked but is pretty decent.
The Fashion Wagon 6A+ The C Surprisingly brilliant highball, almost the last problem done here.
Top 3 New Grit
Somnium 6C Crich Patio construction effort of last year paid off, worth the wait for a spot.
Bigger than a Bee SS 7A Hillcar Wood Only adds a couple of moves to the stand but they are very cool ones.
Flake Breakdown 6C Beatswood At the very far end, the Pen Six block provided some good new problems earlier in the year; this lip traverse was the best of them. Tough.
Honorary mention Parboiled 7A+ traverse at Parbold Quarry – sneaked this one in before Christmas on a visit to family. Nice to get a FA at the place I started climbing at 30 years ago
Routes
Only 2 all year, both with my 10 year old daughter. Right Route at the Roaches Upper Tier was the best.
Spankings
Apart from the annual 10 Inch Zombies disaster I haven’t had to walk away from too much this year. Must try harder in 2017.
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Rob's Wall Stand, Eskdale
Probably the first time I committed to crimping with my right hand since I injured it. A great top move, just a shame the rock is so sharp!
Forgot I'd also done this in 2016 - this should have been on my list... great problem, my ascent was a last gasp, fading light, disintegrating skin, only just snatching the last holds gibbering over the top ascent. Excellent.
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The Scoop, HVS
The main event. Always wanted to do this since seeing the classic photo, although I'll admit I didn't do it barefoot. Didn't disappoint.
:lol: What were the chances of this featuring twice in the best of 2016?!
Top 3 New Limestone
Miner’s Ten 7A+- Miner’s Ten Long, long traverse into the best up problem. Lots of visits to nail this and some Churnet stamina training required, hopefully I’ll be as fit as this again at some point this year!
Human,Kind 6C+ The P This might get overlooked but is pretty decent.
The Fashion Wagon 6A+ The C Surprisingly brilliant highball, almost the last problem done here.
What's the deal with these new southern lime venues Marc? Will they be secret forever or is it just while they're being developed?
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The Scoop, HVS
The main event. Always wanted to do this since seeing the classic photo, although I'll admit I didn't do it barefoot. Didn't disappoint.
Back around 205Chris! :chair: Cheque tell me you did it barefoot...... :please:
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Top 3 New Limestone
Miner’s Ten 7A+- Miner’s Ten Long, long traverse into the best up problem. Lots of visits to nail this and some Churnet stamina training required, hopefully I’ll be as fit as this again at some point this year!
Human,Kind 6C+ The P This might get overlooked but is pretty decent.
The Fashion Wagon 6A+ The C Surprisingly brilliant highball, almost the last problem done here.
What's the deal with these new southern lime venues Marc? Will they be secret forever or is it just while they're being developed?
All are on topos on his website:
Fashion Wagon: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_c.pdf
Human Kind : http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_p.pdf
Miners Ten: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/miners_ten.pdf
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Picnic Sarcastic - Felt easy when I sent this mega classic after some time off
Crimpy Roof - Hardest boulder, built for me. Also burnt off a mate, see 36C's post
Old King Cascade - Had to work very very hard for this. Everyone should get on it, mega.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Crazy Horse, Font - So good and went relatively quickly after some time off climbing
Enterprise, Magic - Went on first day in the dark with a lot of screaming, nice.
Bosna Genial, Magic - Crimpy, overhung, campus, 7A. What more do you want?
Top three sport routes UK
Insatiable - First of the grade :2thumbsup:
Animal Magnetism - Fight at the top, cutting loose like a hero
Bodysnatchers at Empire Crag on the Orme - Steep juggy (dusty) fun
Top Spankings
Zippy's Traverse - Mega spanking, should have done it on my first session. Smallest dab in the universe between me and a tick :'(
Reksi, 7b route at Misja Pec - Should have done this, instead I fell off and smashed my knee, ending my trip...
Angry Samoa, Magic - Latched the top so many times but slid off due to claggy conditions. Ended up tearing nail off :(
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Sorry Fiend, didn't realise it was mandatory. Found it desperate in shoes to be honest! :lol:
All are on topos on his website:
Fashion Wagon: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_c.pdf
Human Kind : http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_p.pdf
Miners Ten: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/miners_ten.pdf
:slap: Yeah I'd seen that before but forgot about it. Cheers.
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Top 3 New Limestone
Miner’s Ten 7A+- Miner’s Ten Long, long traverse into the best up problem. Lots of visits to nail this and some Churnet stamina training required, hopefully I’ll be as fit as this again at some point this year!
Human,Kind 6C+ The P This might get overlooked but is pretty decent.
The Fashion Wagon 6A+ The C Surprisingly brilliant highball, almost the last problem done here.
What's the deal with these new southern lime venues Marc? Will they be secret forever or is it just while they're being developed?
All are on topos on his website:
Fashion Wagon: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_c.pdf
Human Kind : http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_p.pdf
Miners Ten: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/miners_ten.pdf
Not secret, though it's just been word of mouth so far. I recently put some location details on the topos but haven't got around to posting on the new problems thread or adding to PBInfo. I'll sort this out at some point soon.
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Sorry Fiend, didn't realise it was mandatory. Found it desperate in shoes to be honest! :lol:
Hmph! Possibly still got my foot cheese on it from 10 years ago tho :sick: :alien:
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Greatest success is overcoming the elbow tendonyawn that blighted the first half of the year.
Top three boulder problems, UK
The Terrace
When Huffy first did this I tried it and quickly realised its exactly the sort of thing I'll never do. Heels, compression; my anti-style. Add to this going try it once a year with a stable of show ponies who would nip up it, glance at me floundering on the mat and immediately mumble 'shall we move on'. Enter a new me with a couple of new shots in the locker, bon conditions, local knowledge from a willing chum and crucially now the problem itself has literally crumbled down to my level. Nevertheless a great feeling.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Top three trad routes UK
Heart Of Gold, Left Hand red wall
Great technical climbing and gear just where its needed.
Hunger/Citadel, Main Cliff.
What a couple of pitches! I didn't climb either cleanly; seconding the first pitch I broke a hold reaching round the roof and leading the second pitch I ran out of concentration. I've never been a big drinker and unsurprisingly the effects of two nights on the red wine followed by broken sleep on a cold concrete floor caught up with me just around the last hard move of the Citadel 2nd pitch. I just decided I needed a little rest. Regretted it immediately but then resting I realised that actually I felt completely fucked. Not scared or even pumped really just an empty mind. Despite this it was thoroughly enjoyable, a great line and a brilliant day out. Note to self: if someone offers an inflatable mattress check you aren't being utterly sandbagged.
Tales of Yankee Power
Get Johnny Brown to place the gear up to the crux, wait for him to come down shaking his head with the mug firmly on, remember that you may have some form on Peak Limestone, bask in the sun on the belay chatting to friends on adjacent routes.
Question for the eagle eyed among you: How long do you think elapsed, in minutes, before he reminded me that I'd had a little rest on Citadel...?
Honourable mention: Cratcliffe
Not the most expansive crag but what quality the routes are down there. A dozen mid grade routes that rival anything on grit. Lovely day out and those are the four days I had tradding this year. Not bad really.
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Mandragora, Suirana
Also a great technical and involving 7a 100m to the right that I can't remember the name of.
Top Spankings
Jermyn Street
Another stunner. I came to this unfit from the elbow and got a tiny bit sandbagged but really just let myself down. Brilliant route though, so involving it feels like three routes in one. Anyone in the Peak thinking of heading off to Wales should get on this first.
Continual failure to post images into ukbouldering. I have some great ideas and more or less always just give up. This should be easier right? It shouldn't require a 90's computer science degree.
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3.5 ??
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3.5 ??
To be fair to him he waited til we were back on the ground chatting to a few other people so it was probably more like twenty.
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Yeah and I didn't fall off seconding the first pitch either :jab:
Fucking limestone.
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Yeah and I didn't fall off seconding the first pitch either :jab:
Fucking limestone.
I didn't climb either cleanly; seconding the first pitch I broke a hold reaching round the roof
I know you are you said you are so what am I?