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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: punkpunk on September 16, 2014, 05:49:18 pm

Title: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: punkpunk on September 16, 2014, 05:49:18 pm

http://seanbelldotco.wordpress.com/2014/09/

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: Ru on September 17, 2014, 11:14:12 am

That looks very good.

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: Will Hunt on September 17, 2014, 12:50:23 pm

Wow. Nice one!

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: punkpunk on September 18, 2014, 07:35:02 am

Video of Ben on FA here https://vimeo.com/m/105931138 (https://vimeo.com/m/105931138)

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: Will Hunt on September 18, 2014, 08:27:08 am

Crikey. Looks like you can ping off just about any move on that!

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: a dense loner on September 18, 2014, 08:38:58 am

Yep good looking problem that

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: Fiend on September 18, 2014, 09:47:33 am

Well fruity. Nicely set-up for the ground-up repeat now.

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: Mal_Meech on September 18, 2014, 10:29:52 am

Nice one Ben, moves looks great! (If eminently fluff-able...)

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2014, 10:44:56 am

You should know about fluffing Mal :)

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: Mal_Meech on September 18, 2014, 11:30:25 am

That I do... Expert in making things harder than they need to be...

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: Anth Gaskell on September 18, 2014, 02:19:29 pm

Nice one, and nice choice in music on the video too - from Danny MacAskill's Inspired Bicycles video, if memory serves me right :)

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: dave on September 18, 2014, 04:59:13 pm

What was the logic behind wearing a helmet on the top rope but not on the lead?

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: BenB on September 18, 2014, 09:22:01 pm

Hi Folks, Ben here!

So yeah pretty happy with the line :) I saw this block the first time I visited Kyloe, many moons ago, and couldn't believe no one had sent it!

So yes it is a highball but the landing is great. Its much less rippy/pingy now the holds aren't so green. I wore a helmet whilst working out the sequence because it was exploratory climbing and wearing a helmet made me more likely to try 'exciting' moves. Even so, some of the falls were unexpected. Due to the angle of the roof before your established on the moon there was the chance to deck or hit the slab. Also when you are compressing the holds in the roof if your feet rip your head hits the roof. Once I had the sequence dialed I was happy to go without. You may, of course, do whatever makes you comfortable...

Yes a ground up send would be more than possible now, the second ascent was ground up.  :)

I'm cleaning of 2-3 other lines on this block so watch this space :)

I'll be there tomorrow (19th) if anyone wants to fire down

Happy Climbing!

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: tomtom on September 18, 2014, 09:30:26 pm

Effort sir!

Title: Re: [Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b]
Post by: BenB on September 19, 2014, 11:48:54 pm

Thanks :)

It was pretty wet in the woods today but...

Soaked but Sent !! High Tide - 6b FA - Kyloe in the Woods

The second new line on the approach buttress at Kyloe In, to the right of Half Moon. I cleaned it last night and this morning but it rained in the night and it was foggy and drizzly on the day so the holds weren't exactly in good condition! Never mind
I won't be surprised if it ends up as 6a+ once its seen some traffic and the holds dry off. There's plenty of them at the top!

Great Fun  :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKn6pEpHV_M&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKn6pEpHV_M&feature=youtu.be)