UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: HaeMeS on July 11, 2013, 08:15:17 pm
-
THE classic shoe is back: http://www.klettern.de/news/sonstiges/outdoor-und-kletterschuhe-2014-neuheiten-von-der-outdoor-messe.818859.5.htm (http://www.klettern.de/news/sonstiges/outdoor-und-kletterschuhe-2014-neuheiten-von-der-outdoor-messe.818859.5.htm)
:bow:
-
Fuck me, they look toilet.
-
Yes, but "überarbeitete Version" could cover a multitude of sins. Verdes and Blancos were supposed to be slightly revised / improved versions too as I understand.
"Verschlimmbessern" is one of many excellent German verbs for which there's no really snappy English equivalent. "To make worse by 'improving'".
-
it looks like nob all thought has gone into that, especially when you click on to the next picture and it's basically identical bar the lacing
-
I saw Steve McClure testing what looked like a pair of those last month. From what I overheard, they aren't as stiff or precise as the original / Blancos. He suggested they were more suited to trad or hot-rock destinations where something a bit softer would suit sunny tufa wrestling.
-
Just what Five Ten needs. Another shoe.
They were great, but I wonder now how they would compare.
Same irritating lace up system I see.
I think there's an element of looking back with Anasazi tinted spectacles.
-
I do easier stuff in some old-but-new pinks at the minute. They're great at the front but they're soft, the heel is useless and the step up in design when I put on my Vapour lace-ups is huge.
I'm sure they'll be good for someone.
-
Wonder if they'll still do the classic split down the side of the heel?
-
Just what Five Ten needs. Another soft shoe.
-
I think everyone's overlooking the important factor here - they're going to look fucking AMAZING with jeans, and can you say that about Verdes? Blancos?
(Rests case)
-
I think everyone's overlooking the important factor here - they're going to look fucking AMAZING with jeans, and can you say that about Verdes? Blancos?
(Rests case)
But no-one will see yours 3T when they're stuffed deep in all those grim cracks you're climbing at the moment ;)
-
Shirley Purple is the new Pink?
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41%2BrmwXJ1UL.jpg)
-
I think everyone's overlooking the important factor here - they're going to look fucking AMAZING with jeans, and can you say that about Verdes? Blancos?
(Rests case)
But no-one will see yours 3T when they're stuffed deep in all those grim cracks you're climbing at the moment ;)
As a matter of fact, a pair of now-pretty-work-in old skool pinks are my shoe of choice for all the offwidthing...they really are the shoe for all seasons (that don't involve heel hooking)!
-
Adidas marketeers at work. Too obvious!
(Try making a shoe that lasts 5 minutes and you might tempt back all those of us who switched to Scarpa :P)
-
Adidas marketeers at work. Too obvious!
I thought this too. I wonder if references on here played their part? If so, how long before we see a Five Ten "Pain au Raisin"?! ;)
Having started climbing after they were discontinued, I'm not fussed about trying what seems to be a nostalgia shoe personally. I can't help but think that by playing to the "not as good as they used to be" market with anything but a totally unchanged model they're shooting themselves in the foot too.
-
they're shooting themselves in the foot
(http://news.bbc.co.uk/olmedia/875000/images/_879875_basilbrush_300.jpg)
Boom boom!
-
they're shooting themselves in the foot
Boom boom!
I thought that pun was a bit corny.. Still I doubt it will be the sole effort...
-
I've have 4 sessions now in the new pinks and I think they've done a great job. Maybe even surpassing the original (which was good anyway) in the all-roundness stakes. It's touch stiffer that the original and has a better heel as well.
I think I'll probably be favouring these over the VCS for now. Flipping good finger crack climbing boot as well, which was a surprise.
-
(Try making a shoe that lasts 5 minutes and you might tempt back all those of us who switched to Scarpa :P)
I bought a pair of FiveTen guide tennies that started coming apart after walking ~10 miles over a few days (48 hours and up and down the Muir trail to Half Dome). Fantastically poor build quality.
Before I was using stock-piled boots so never really had the problem of boots falling apart (or didn't notice it anyhow), now they seem to last 5 minutes and look quite frankly crap next to the build of the Scarpas I was using a month or so before going away. Frustratingly, FiveTens are abundant in North America and Scarpa are not!
-
Has anyone tried these as well as Tommy?
Tried a pair on last night. They seem slightly stifer than my VCS out of the box, but bigger for the given size. I'm an 8 in VCS but the 8 pink seemed to fit like a worn in pair of VCS. Will they stretch? Tommy, how do you size them, compared to the VCS? For all the slagging the heel has got it fits me pretty well.....
Look like it'd be a great all round/grit shoe. I can imagine having a pair for trad climbing, I'd just need to dust of the rack and actually do some....
-
I wear a 6.5 VCS and a 6.5 Pink. I think I'm roughly the same fit in each but maybe if I think about it the pink is a tiny bit more relaxed. But that seems to be ok for me as I can crank the laces a little if needed.
I wore these on doing Captain Invincible recently and also on a limestone sport trip and it performed well on both. The only thing I definitely wouldn't be using it for is something like slate edging or really hard vert limestone. In terms of trad, I put these in my bag now every time over a pair of VCS.
-
I wear a 6.5 VCS and a 6.5 Pink. I think I'm roughly the same fit in each but maybe if I think about it the pink is a tiny bit more relaxed. But that seems to be ok for me as I can crank the laces a little if needed.
I wore these on doing Captain Invincible recently and also on a limestone sport trip and it performed well on both. The only thing I definitely wouldn't be using it for is something like slate edging or really hard vert limestone. In terms of trad, I put these in my bag now every time over a pair of VCS.
Cheers Tommy, food for thought. Will the pink clash with my trousers though......
-
The only thing I definitely wouldn't be using it for is something like slate edging or really hard vert limestone.
I would have thought they'd be perfect for that ? ie same as the originals but a bit better - unless I misunderstood.
-
Tried these on today, currently using old resoled pair on grit which I had to hand so could compare the two.
New one is a smidgin narrower but otherwise it's the same shoe with a sensible heel. Don't think there's any difference in stiffness, the old model was fairly supportive too.
-
I always thought the verdes were the old pinks with a better heel albeit still not much good. But I only ever had one pair of old pinks and was a reet punter. Verdes have been my go to shoe for trad ever since they came out. Are the pinks stiffer? Not as stiff or aggressive in the heel as whites i assume?
-
Verdes have been my go to shoe for trad ever since they came out. Are the pinks stiffer? Not as stiff or aggressive in the heel as whites i assume?
I don't use whites/greens, prefer Scarpa to 5.10 - except for the pinks. To my eye, yes pinks are stiffer than greens, so your post is about right.
-
the old pinks were THE slate boot of choice. Surprised you think they'll not be suited Tommy?
-
Try it and you'll find out I guess! :)
I'd take T-rocks and Whites on slate if I'm at my limit. Maybe it's the distinction of how far you push the boot? If I were on mid grades on slate, then yeah I'd still be all over the pinks.
-
Stiffer and more narrow heel. IMHO good things. I really like them. The rubber is very good. Coming from the Evolv shaman.
-
I'd take T-rocks and Whites on slate if I'm at my limit. Maybe it's the distinction of how far you push the boot? If I were on mid grades on slate, then yeah I'd still be all over the pinks.
Good effort defending them but the fact is that the fuckers have taken that choice away.
For a hardcore of Tor, Cove and Slate climbers the Whites (and to a lesser extent T Rocks) are the weapons of choice at the limit.
I understand that the sales are limited but they are pissing all over an influential minority. This coupled with the culling of Ryan Pasquill and others out of the team this is shouting out we don't care what climbers who are passionate about the product care.
Even if they only break even on the Whites seeing them photographed and worn on the hardest routes has to have a value that casts a rosy light over the rest of the range.
-
casting a rosy light over whites will make them look pink, innit
-
casting a rosy light over whites will make them look pink, innit
Its an interesting Pink/Pain au raisin hybrid you have in your avatar Lagers...
do the pastry whirls embedded with raisins (covered in sugary goop) perform well in heel hooking situations? (I forgot - you don't advocate use of the heel.. sorry) are they an improvement for dispelling bad foot odours?
-
The FiveTen pain au raisins taste a lot better than the Boreal ones, but you have to hold them carefully whilst taking a bite or they fall apart.
My experiments so far have shown that neither the glazing nor the raisin juice improve friction for hands or feet. However, they don't seem to be damaging the rock.
-
I'd take T-rocks and Whites on slate if I'm at my limit. Maybe it's the distinction of how far you push the boot? If I were on mid grades on slate, then yeah I'd still be all over the pinks.
Good effort defending them but the fact is that the fuckers have taken that choice away.
For a hardcore of Tor, Cove and Slate climbers the Whites (and to a lesser extent T Rocks) are the weapons of choice at the limit.
I understand that the sales are limited but they are pissing all over an influential minority. This coupled with the culling of Ryan Pasquill and others out of the team this is shouting out we don't care what climbers who are passionate about the product care.
Even if they only break even on the Whites seeing them photographed and worn on the hardest routes has to have a value that casts a rosy light over the rest of the range.
Hey Sharkie,
I'm getting a lot more man love since I wear them :fishing:
-
But anyway,
Looking forward to the interview with Malc. You will look so cute next to him :)
-
The rubber is very good. Coming from the Evolv shaman.
Of course it is. Anything would be.
-
I’m gutted whites are being withdrawn.
At my punter level I thought they were the best shoes I’ve ever worn for vertical limestone / rhyolite / pillow lava / slate. Pinks may have been the slate boot of choice in the 90s but whites are better. Nu-pinks might be fine as a VCR replacement but don’t sound likely to be the ideal shoe for standing on tiny edges. I stockpiled 3 pairs size 10 when I heard they were being discontinued but these wont last for ever. Llanberis resoles keep the shape pretty well but some of the stiffness is never regained and you are left with a good medium-stiff shoe, much like a pink.
What are the best edging shoes now? I’ve tried Miuras, Scarpas (Vapour Velcro) and Tenaya (Masai), none of which fit ideally well. Unfortunately I seem to have a 5.10 shaped foot. Anything else I should be short-listing?
-
I got hooked on Whites last year so got myself 2 new pairs when i heard they were being discontinued .
-
What are the best edging shoes now? I’ve tried Miuras...
I think Katana Lace are the closest Sportiva version to the Whites? Meant to be very stiff.
-
If you tried the Miura Velcros, you'll find the Katana's are similar.
I find Miura VCS to be amazing for edging. Otherwise it's Sc**pa.
-
You could always get your beloved Whites re-soled at Llanberis Resoles by Torquil. I've sent 3 pairs (Instinct lace and 2 * Miuras) to him now and he does a top job. :2thumbsup:
http://www.llanberisresoles.com/ (http://www.llanberisresoles.com/)
-
Thanks all.
I was forgetting Sportiva have two quite different yellow shoes called Miura and two more called Katana. I've only climbed in Miura laces (fairly stiff, not my ideal fit) and Katana velcros (moderately flexible, like a Anasazi velcro that didn't fit me quite as well).
Sounds like the Katana laces or Miura velcro might be worth trying for fit.
-
Katana Laces are quite a bit broader in the forefoot than Miura Laces, and they keep their downturn a bit better. Lots of people seem to like them, I didn't. Miura Laces fit me better.
(Although in mountain boots I went for Scarpas over Sportivas because of a broader forefoot on the Scarpas. Whatever. Different requirements)
-
currently wearing a brand new pair of pinks at home, with pink socks and pink plastic bag (!)
brief first impressions (coming from a blanco lover):
good news:
-the heel is still massively tensioned. Seems a good design (very curious. the blanco heel seemed shit in the shop and performed brilliantly in font...)
-still a stiff midsole (though it will get soft rather quickly if it's the same material as blancos...)
-same sizing.
bad news: (?)
-as more qualified opinins stated, the fit seems slighly different. a bit lower volume/flatter toes in the front?
To be verified when the shoes break in/the rands start to peel from the uppers.
-
First session in font with the pinks today.
surprisingly friendly out of the box (I found whites and galileos a bit clunky).
side by side with an old,pair of blancos the fit difference is not massive
but still noticeable. The pinks feel flatter and more comfy (pressure more evenly distributed).
the blancos are a tad more tensioned and higher volume, and less comfy despite being broken in: the pressure is,more concentrated at the extremes (toe nails, Achilles)
the new heel is amazing, like a Miura heel but stickier.
the general feel is that it is worth saving 1 pair of whites as specialist boot for ultimate edging, but the new ones will be my go to boot for the following:
-anything in font that does not require a super soft or downturned shoe.
-worn .5 bigger, moderately hard multipitch and especially granite cracks.
-not too steep sport, unless it's tiny pockets or credit card edging.
in a broad sense they are a better shoe than the Blanco, or at least one that will get used more often.
apart from ultra edging, the only other slight loss is that they are probably a bit worse than the Blanco on stuff where a down turned shoe starts to be a better choice.
-
I've also just got a pair and would agree with pretty much everything that ghisino has said.
I'd even go so far as to say they are about .5 a size bigger than equivalent whites?? Maybe the heel has thicker rubber than the whites or 5.10 sizing is still dodge. But this may be to do with the lower volume toe. My toe knuckles are defo further from the front of the shoe and when I stand them up next to each other my pinks are a bit longer?
Maybe going .5 a size down would create white effect (+ heinous pain till they stretched)??
At the Works yesterday I was looking to edge wherever possible as I would with a pair of new whites, so maybe they aren't too soft?
Heel feels less aggressive to me but I had become resistant to that on the whites unless it was fully scorchio anyway.
I personally think whites looked cooler, and found them pretty good all round, only used them on grit once they were pretty much dead though.
Anyway due to C4 rubber they will be better on the grit than greens as I always found onyxx a bit 'creepy'.
Here ends my tuppence.
-
I'd even go so far as to say they are about .5 a size bigger than equivalent whites?? Maybe the heel has thicker rubber than the whites or 5.10 sizing is still dodge. But this may be to do with the lower volume toe. My toe knuckles are defo further from the front of the shoe and when I stand them up next to each other my pinks are a bit longer?
Maybe going .5 a size down would create white effect (+ heinous pain till they stretched)??
mine are exactly the same length as same size blancos. They feel .25 bigger maybe???
some people will defo manage to get these smaller, but personally speaking I would have needed plastic bags and never use them with 5.10 shoes...
-
Having virtually never climbed in anything else since 5.10 came out, besides a pair of vectors :blink: resoled in c4, pinks were always 7.5 and velcros the same for me. Had 2 pairs of whites in 7.5 which were too big and the Verdes flippers went the same. Just got a pair of pinks in 7 and they feel good, very similar in the toe to the old, do wonder if they are going to stretch too much though with the new softer heal. Im a 9 so down 2 sizes for sure if you want them to work properly in my opinion.
-
I was wondering why no one of those who have tried the new pinks has mentioned it but they are nothing like any anasazi i know.
I tried them on in a local shop today and while the heel fit was good (pretty similar to the heel of the verdes) the tip looked and felt like crap.
The new pinks have no tip. They built the the toe area so round they look and feel like you´re climbing in oven mitts. i can´t imagine getting my toes in any pocket no matter how big it is. But the people who are scared that they are too soft can calm down, they felt like a board, to me they felt even stiffer than the whites.
-
to me whites wheren't a pocket boot anyway, especially when new.
Actually i wouldn't use any of the 5.10 boots i own (quantum, blanco, galieleo, new pink) on anything requiring a pointy toe.
-
i always found the verdes and vcs to be really good for pockets. not too pointy nor too round, just the right amont for "pocketpower".
-
Anyone had any longer term experiences with the pinks, ideally on grit? My last pair of whites have nearly had it. Ta.
-
My last pair of whites have nearly had it.
:'(
-
Exactly.
-
http://www.cragxclimbing.com/collections/shoes-footwear/products/5-10-anasazi-v2-blanco (http://www.cragxclimbing.com/collections/shoes-footwear/products/5-10-anasazi-v2-blanco)
-
There much closer to the verdes in terms of how much they soften up. I'm six months in on my first pair and they're getting a bit soft, lovely for puntering/ smearing around, but not a white replacement. I'm also just starting to get the beginning of small holes starting in the toes, this is probably due to shit footwork and my indoor wall having very rough ply surfacing.
-
Really like them (heel, edging, smear great) but the toes go through really quickly (probably because im shit).
-
Thanks all. I'm off down the Foundry.
-
Another possibility (on offer at BF)?:
http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/five-ten-quantum-p-966.html (http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/five-ten-quantum-p-966.html)
Not really like the Pinks or the Whites, more like a softer Dragon. I've found them to be great for grit and Font - soft enough to smear, very good on steep stuff and pretty decent on vertical walls / edges. I think Five Ten have stopped making them but they are still around (I've stockpiled a few pairs).