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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: shark on June 26, 2016, 09:43:14 pm

Title: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: shark on June 26, 2016, 09:43:14 pm
Gardened the juggy buttress today that you almost brush past on the walk-in 50 yards before getting to the eatswood Traverse.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9l0j4us8rk

6A+/6B No footblocks. Start matched in the obvious slot on the right end and head left to top out on the nose. This is just within sight of the house so keep a low profile.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DL0vULhQIA

6B/6B+ No footblocks. Start matched on chest high holds on lip on left end and make pumpy moves to the slot on the right. Purists wuill match   

Not going to name them yet after last time's experience but they are not here:
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/ 

Anyone done them already?
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: bolehillbilly on June 26, 2016, 10:00:29 pm
Not guilty this time Shark. 
I did have a good look at this block but wasn't sure what the best solution was to making the most of the rock, the left arête start was obvious but didn't think of going all the way right.  Looks like a couple more good lines for the Eatswood collection.
 :great:
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: shark on June 26, 2016, 10:06:13 pm
Not guilty this time Shark. 
I did have a good look at this block but wasn't sure what the best solution was to making the most of the rock, the left arête start was obvious but didn't think of going all the way right.  Looks like a couple more good lines for the Eatswood collection.
 :great:

Thanks bolehillbilly - that was quick.

Bring on the Brexit related names...
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: shark on June 27, 2016, 02:10:01 pm
Bring on the Brexit related names...

Obviously no one's in the mood so Sharkey's Right and Sharkey's Backward
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 27, 2016, 05:36:43 pm
no one else is in the mood to fessing up to climbing on a banned crag within sight of the residents

Sharkey's Right and Sharkey's Wrong ?

(to be fair, I know little about the access situation there)
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: shark on June 27, 2016, 05:55:30 pm
no one else is in the mood to fessing up to climbing on a banned crag within sight of the residents

They aren't the landowners - they just take exception to climbers. Its a couple of hundred yards from their house across a field and you are in the trees topping out so you would be unlucky to be seen and they would be trespassing too if they came to do anything about it
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: webbo on June 27, 2016, 08:24:46 pm
Definite leaf dab at 19 secs in first vid. Back round. ;D
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: fatneck on June 28, 2016, 03:36:42 pm
Brexit Bellends?
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 28, 2016, 04:20:11 pm
How about "Boris Johnson Is A Fucking Cunt" and "Boris Johnson Is Still A Fucking Cunt"?
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: tomtom on June 28, 2016, 04:22:35 pm
How about in, out.

Or trying to mix things together..

Bellend Boris' Brexit Bumscrape.
and
Bumscrape Brexit Boris' Bellend.
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: Bonjoy on June 28, 2016, 04:39:31 pm
Brexistential Angst ?
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: JamieG on June 28, 2016, 05:15:42 pm
Brexistential Angst ?

Good name, I like it.

Also maybe I've missed something but why is it "Eatswood", rather than "eatswood", in the title?
Title: Re: [Peak] [eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: slackline on June 28, 2016, 05:20:31 pm
Also maybe I've missed something but why is it "Eatswood", rather than "eatswood", in the title?

Because when talking about bouldering you capitalise (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27180.0.html), if we were talking about Corpse Crack (a trad route at the same crag) then we would use the lowercase form 'eatswood'
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: shark on June 28, 2016, 05:30:09 pm
Brexistential Angst ?

Like it.

Ive put them up on UKC but as you are the Moderator can you change one of them to "Brexistential Angst" 

Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: tomtom on June 28, 2016, 05:36:33 pm
Brexistential Angst ?

Like it.

Ive put them up on UKC but as you are the Moderator can you change one of them to "Brexistential Angst"

How about Brexistential State for the other?
Title: Re: [Peak] [eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: JamieG on June 28, 2016, 07:38:00 pm
Also maybe I've missed something but why is it "Eatswood", rather than "eatswood", in the title?

Because when talking about bouldering you capitalise (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27180.0.html), if we were talking about Corpse Crack (a trad route at the same crag) then we would use the lowercase form 'eatswood'

I messed up. I meant to write eatswood! East not Eats.
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: JamieG on June 28, 2016, 07:39:09 pm
Oi! It changes automatically. Que?
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 28, 2016, 08:06:55 pm
Oi! It changes automatically. Que?

banned crags innit - auto change so residents, tree huggers and landowners can't search the internet for proof that dirty climbers plan to trespass on their land and ruin the world
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 28, 2016, 08:20:28 pm
although I do look forward to the day when Google asks "do you mean Eatswood bouldering?"
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: nai on June 29, 2016, 11:44:21 am
THe right to Left could obviously be Brexit Stage Left. Sorry, hope there was no rush for this.
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: dave on June 29, 2016, 11:59:09 am
There's no need to name these problems until someone files for Article 50.
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: shark on June 29, 2016, 03:13:10 pm
There's no need to name these problems until someone files for Article 50.

" The Article 50 extension" ?
Title: Re: [Peak] [eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: Offwidth on June 29, 2016, 04:53:25 pm
if we were talking about Corpse Crack (a trad route at the same crag) then we would use the lowercase form 'eatswood'

Maybe you mean Eats wood (the start crack is also a problem and probably most climbed that way)
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: slackline on June 29, 2016, 04:58:24 pm
Maybe you mean Eats wood (the start crack is also a problem and probably most climbed that way)

Nope, I meant Corpse Crack (*** HVS 5a) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=101738).
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 29, 2016, 05:00:57 pm
I think it was a continuation of your joke slackers. You were joking weren't you.....
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: slackline on June 29, 2016, 05:05:54 pm
Ah, it went over my head, I went and checked and couldn't find Eats wood (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=918) listed (was going to check the BMC guide when I got home but won't bother now).

My original post was intended to be a joke.
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 29, 2016, 05:06:42 pm
I know it was. I was joking.
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: slackline on June 29, 2016, 05:10:57 pm
:oops:
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: Offwidth on June 30, 2016, 01:04:06 am
A problem into a route of my discovery would more likely be called Eats cakes.
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: tomtom on June 30, 2016, 11:14:32 am
Is this all to do with GuyVG, sorry Wood FT's new username?
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: bolehillbilly on June 30, 2016, 09:16:36 pm
All this name stuff is lost on me but on the climbing front did both problems today. 
Good additions,  quality rock.  Left to right was most decent, climbed more like a roof than a lip style problem. The right to left should go footless but obviously not by me...
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: shark on July 01, 2016, 09:23:15 am
All this name stuff is lost on me but on the climbing front did both problems today. 
Good additions,  quality rock.  Left to right was most decent, climbed more like a roof than a lip style problem. The right to left should go footless but obviously not by me...

 :dance1:

What grades ?  On second thoughts don't say ;)

Never thought of footless  :goodidea: - presumably dropping off at the end rather than a muscle-up and handspring for the top out  ;D     
Title: Re: [Peak] [Eatswood] [The Parapet] [Two traverses 6Bish]
Post by: bolehillbilly on July 01, 2016, 09:30:10 pm


B4 and B5   ;D

Once article 50 is invoked I hear Font grades will be first thing to go. :worms:
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