UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: (woz) on January 04, 2006, 06:35:06 pm
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Dave Mason climbed a (possible) new problem at curbar today. It takes the overhanging arete of the gorilla warfare boulder from a sit start (LH pinch foothold of GW, RH sloping pinch), before slapping upwards to a crimp + then jugs. Its only really one hard move but is very good - much better than it looks.
Name: Humpin'
Grade: 7b+?
Pictures in my gallery @ http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/index.php?cat=10150
Edit: It doesn't use the juggy crack further round the arete at this grade.
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Cheers for the photos and putting it up Dan looks good. Me and Dan both reckoned it probably has been climbed before but dont understand why it hasnt been claimed it is wicked line.
Its not in the guide so thought i would have it, you do hump the rock to so everyone go and enjoy its nice but not too hard, unfortunately, haha!!
David
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Looks good. I'll certainly be giving it a try next time I'm there
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Hey dave, I just put some pics of eatswood in my gallery so you can see what its like - enjoy :wink:
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If you are the David Mason on 8a.nu then you REALLY need to speak to someone who knows something about climbing. You really need to look at what the definition of onsight is. Your scorecard at first implies you are a very good climber, but then shows you rather foolish. Onsight a problem 2cnd go? Interesting that?!?!?!?!!
Just for the record, onsight means 1st go with no falls and no prior knowledge of the route. However, since you can see every hold on most boulder problems, the term is redundant, and to be honest you should be using a flash if you do it first go.
anyway, nice one on the "new" problem
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Wowser, chill Uncle, personal attacks are not allowed ;)
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ok, i'm chilled. Angry at the fact my car has been broken into. It wasn't a personal attack, more a comment on onsight/flash knowledge etc. Just worded rather strongly.
:8)
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It's ok fella, sorry about your car and hope you didn't lose anything valuable :(
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If you are the David Mason on 8a.nu then you REALLY need to speak to someone who knows something about climbing. You really need to look at what the definition of onsight is. Your scorecard at first implies you are a very good climber, but then shows you rather foolish. Onsight a problem 2cnd go? Interesting that?!?!?!?!!
Just for the record, onsight means 1st go with no falls and no prior knowledge of the route. However, since you can see every hold on most boulder problems, the term is redundant, and to be honest you should be using a flash if you do it first go.
Calm down, calm down, [poor scouse acsent] Keithy boy!
You shouldn't get so bothered about 8a.nu, it truly is the biggest pile of shite on the internet. Oh I hope Bjorn doesn't read this. :D
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Good to see unclemullet standing up for ethics and honesty :wink:
But, as Greg says, 8a.nu scorecards :roll: :roll: :roll:
P.S. This looks like a pretty neat problem too.
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martin veale would have done this first, it's not been written up because it's wank and inconsequential. like coming straight through the roof on the easy boulder, this also has not been written up cos it's wank and inconsequential. ok they are ok probs but inconsequential anyway. for the record i have done them both, where's outside?
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Bet Jason got there first :lol:
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bet he can get to outside faster than me too, slipstreaming all the way. i know people now love to report stuff cos it's 2006, but i really think people need to take a second and wonder if anything that's not "hard" in a popular venue is really going to be a new prob
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but i really think people need to take a second and wonder if anything that's not "hard" in a popular venue is really going to be a new prob
Come now he did say
Me and Dan both reckoned it probably has been climbed before but dont understand why it hasnt been claimed it is wicked line.
I.e they did it, and enjoyed it and, considered it worth bringing to others attention. Fair enough. I'll try it next time i'm there, I might like it too.
In my experience there have been lots of examples of good fairly easy lines in the middle of popular areas going un-noticed and unclimbed for years. People often only search off the beaten track for new stuff, falsely assuming everything has been done at the big venues before. For example Big Al Queada at RHS, blatantly obvious classic in the middle of one of THE most popular spots, relatively easy, not climbed until a couple of years back.
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i do understand what you're saying. however one persons good prob is not anothers, don't i know this.
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ha ha... i'm behind lee, all the way... :shock:
also, with regard to 8a.nu, if you're going to wave your willy, make sure you do it responsibly.
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Angry young man agrees with angry old man :wink:
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well this is the reason why new problems probably dont get put on sites like this because lots of people seem to get mardy about them.
sorry i always thought onsight meant the first time the crag was visited my mistake, not that important really. but my mate pointed it out to me this week. 8a is a good site to keep a record of what you have done not bothered about the ranking points.
on the subject of new lines this definately is not crap, i thought that at first but when climbed it is good. so everyone get a life and stop bitching on forums just go and climb and have fun. this is definately a problem worthy of bein in a guide.
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Like Monkeyboy says, criticism of people claiming stuff leads to people being reluctant to pipe up about first ascents at all. This leads to confusion and annoying "done years ago" claims long after the event, which personally piss me off a lot more than the odd shit unworthy problem getting written up (no comment on the prob in question BTW, I have no experience of it). The history of bouldering is a right old mess because people have been too afraid of ridicule to report their (often classic)first ascents in the past.
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The way i see it, the more problems I know about in my local areas, the more problems i have to try - which leads to me having more fun out bouldering and not getting bored. Shouldnt we encourage the development of our sport?
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To add to what I said earlier though, if you do claim shit problems, you will look like a fool and it'll be your own fault. (That's a general point, not directed at (woz)/Monkeyboy particularly)
I'm told some of my probs are a shit, but IMO enough have been good for me to look slightly better than a fool on balance.
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i always thought onsight meant the first time the crag was visited my mistake, not that important really .
Well you amused me with that anyway.
so everyone get a life and stop bitching on forums just go and climb and have fun.
.... rather than sit and post about your exploits on the net?
Has andi_e's reign ended?
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monkey boy wrote:
so everyone get a life and stop bitching on forums just go and climb and have fun.
thanks for the advice i will try and get out more as soon as God decides to add an extra day to the week.
The way i see it, the more problems I know about in my local areas, the more problems i have to try
there are exactly the same amount of probs, you've just shown a guidebook mentality for which 8a."new" is perfect. whilst there being nothing wrong with this to some people other's find it offensive and wouldn't want "all" probs named and graded just so they can be the 57th "best" climber in the uk.
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Has andi_e's reign ended?
Finally i can relax knowing that nobody will be bitching!
I use 8a.nu as a diary of evertyhing good that I do, be it classic 4cs right up to the hardest things I do (classics 5as), rather than waving my willy, because if i were to wave it, it would appear stupidly small.
Good effort with the problem, it seems like something I'd want to claim with that grade!
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rather than waving my willy, because if i were to wave it, it would appear stupidly small.
Never mind Andi, try here: http://www.enlargepenisguide.com/ ;)
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exactly my point. you'd want to claim it, people of a more discerning nature would think it unimportant
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Willy waving, irrespective of the amount or quality of problems claimed, could also be avoided by just using the log book function, rather than the ranking one.
(editted to make sense)
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david mason, doing a problem in 'a first session' is not onsight (as you argued with my G/F)... come on update your 8a.nu....
also ive done this problem half a decade ago approx...
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thanks for the advice i will try and get out more as soon as God decides to add an extra day to the week.
you misery! ha ha! so yoou caqn get out 8 days a week to moan, ratherr than 7!
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david mason, doing a problem in 'a first session' is not onsight (as you argued with my G/F)... come on update your 8a.nu...
i agree mr mason, look at this guy! onsight monster!
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Try http://www.xpressit.nl/boulderingdownloads/ for a way to record your routes without getting your tiny cocks out.............. :roll: [/url]
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if the internet is down for any reason you can also go old skool and record your stuff on paper, quite possibly a diary. if climbing in all weather's and you have a bad memory may i recommend using a pencil to jot down your latest ticks
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david mason, doing a problem in 'a first session' is not onsight (as you argued with my G/F)... come on update your 8a.nu....
sadly i cant be arsed to change it all as this would take forever. Well i did say someone has probably done it before so well done just letting people know its there as it is quite a good line.
I didnt argue with your girlfriend it was what i thought onsight meant sorry if everyone is so upset by this.
it will be the last time i will put stuff on this sight, and we were only wondering whether it had been done before.
oh well back up to leeds soon and yorkshire where the climbing is good and people tend not to be such up their own ass pricks like the climbing community in Sheffield.
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absolutely amazing.
you have done a lot of good probs, meaning you are a decent climber. if you never knew what on-sight was why did you claim things as on-sight? it is things like your scorecard which makes people think 8a.nu is a farce
there is nothing up my arse about not wanting to report a problem that i thought was a stocking filler, and that i was quite sure every man and his dog had done. there may be something up si's arse, most probably festerring?
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sadly i cant be arsed to change it all as this would take forever.
So you could be arsed to do it all in the first place, but now you realise your fake ranking will plummet, you cant be arsed to change it?
it will be the last time i will put stuff on this sight.
Please don't go, you will be sorely missed. PS If you learned the difference between site and sight, you might be able to figure out where the word onsight actually comes from, as opposed to on site.
oh well back up to leeds soon and yorkshire where the climbing is good and people tend not to be such up their own ass pricks like the climbing community in Sheffield.
You will probably find the "pricks" on this site cover the width and breadth of the country, so watch your back next time you are at the 'cliff, you never know who is "spotting" you.
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Easy tiger. There's no need for that.
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sadly i cant be arsed to change it all as this would take forever.
So you could be arsed to do it all in the first place, but now you realise your fake ranking will plummet, you cant be arsed to change it?
it will be the last time i will put stuff on this sight.
Please don't go, you will be sorely missed. PS If you learned the difference between site and sight, you might be able to figure out where the word onsight actually comes from, as opposed to on site.
oh well back up to leeds soon and yorkshire where the climbing is good and people tend not to be such up their own ass pricks like the climbing community in Sheffield.
You will probably find the "pricks" on this site cover the width and breadth of the country, so watch your back next time you are at the 'cliff, you never know who is "spotting" you.
As the only person on this board who actually knows dave (nice guy btw) I can assure you that he would be the last person to be bothered about the ranking - and it is quite an effort to change even one problem, let alone all of them. We all know that 8a. isnt accurate, or even close, so what does it matter - and i'm sure you are far too 'cool' to look at the site anyway, so it is no concern of yours.
And you can't really blame him for being angry with the posters on this site after the treatment he has recieved
p.s. well done for spotting his typo
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I'm sure he's lovely, but I don't appreciate being called a prick, especially a sheffield prick (:wink: in case I alienate the whole site)/
I don't look at 8a.nu, not because I'm too cool, but because the whole thing is bollocks. Why else would you use the site if weren't interested in your wankings?
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I'm sure he's lovely, but I don't appreciate being called a prick, especially a sheffield prick (:wink: in case I alienate the whole site)/
I don't look at 8a.nu, not because I'm too cool, but because the whole thing is bollocks. Why else would you use the site if weren't interested in your wankings?
I can only speak for myself on this one but I can honestly say that I never look at where I am in the rankings - I couldn't care less. If every single climber in the world was on it, with completely accurate scorecards, then i probably would (and i dont think that that makes me a bad/egotistical person - its human nature to be competitive).
I use it as a record of what i've done, and i find the training log useful too. I sometimes even look at other peoples scorecards to see what they thought of problems.
as for the name calling - just think "sticks and stones" and i'm sure you wont get too upset.
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i don't understand, are people upset with me? are they upset because i didn't think it worthy of a write-up? which si also feels is the case. i was pointing out, like i have done a number of times in the past, that if a problem is "easy" in a well travelled venue it would more than likely have been done before. if you guy's had asked if the prob had been done i would have said yes, whereas what was asked was has this problem been done, if not i will give it 7b+ n call it humpin. it was at this point that i nearly passed water
i read 8a every so often, in fact i get emails telling me to look at certain times, an even bigger fact i got an email enquiring about who this guy dave was since his scorecard is quite impressive
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The rankings are utter boolocks anyway, I was 40-odd last time I checked! i would expect to be more like 4000-odd.
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(http://www.allseasoning.com/images/Beef.jpg)
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Put your meat and two veg away Fiend, there's children watching!
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I also know Dave and think he's a sound guy and a good climber. It seems understandable to me that a boulderer might not know the meaning of the term onsight, which is basically a sport/trad concept with no place in the bouldering world, it's unfortunate that 8a have it as an option and credit it with so many more 'points'.
As for this new problem, I can appreciate how a local may be annoyed at some kid coming along trying to claim something that is well known to them, but honestly this should be in the guidebook, that to my mind is what a guidebook is for, to list as many problems that are known at the time. Also it looks like a good line to me, sit start up an arete with tricky opening moves - if this now constitutes an inconsequential and wank line, then it's a sad day for bouldering.
7B+ is hardly piss is it? I'm sure there are lots of people on this board who aspire to this grade, saying it's 'easy' is a bit of a slap to the face.
Finally, I don't think everyone should be so harsh about willy waving in general, after all, just about every human activity has some willy waving as a motive.
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I also know Dave and think he's a sound guy and a good climber. It seems understandable to me that a boulderer might not know the meaning of the term onsight, which is basically a sport/trad concept with no place in the bouldering world, it's unfortunate that 8a have it as an option and credit it with so many more 'points'.
As for this new problem, I can appreciate how a local may be annoyed at some kid coming along trying to claim something that is well known to them, but honestly this should be in the guidebook, that to my mind is what a guidebook is for, to list as many problems that are known at the time. Also it looks like a good line to me, sit start up an arete with tricky opening moves - if this now constitutes an inconsequential and wank line, then it's a sad day for bouldering.
7B+ is hardly piss is it? I'm sure there are lots of people on this board who aspire to this grade, saying it's 'easy' is a bit of a slap to the face.
Finally, I don't think everyone should be so harsh about willy waving in general, after all, just about every human activity has some willy waving as a motive.
I think that about sums it up
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Actually, maybe something like trainspotting hasn't got much willy waving involved, I wonder how many 'spotters' have pulled birds using their impressive log book of engine numbers.
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It seems understandable to me that a boulderer might not know the meaning of the term onsight, which is basically a sport/trad concept with no place in the bouldering world
stop it, my ribs are falling out.
the thing which concerns me about the potential quality of the "new" problem is the fact that theres a line of jugs a foot round the arete which you don't use, and the fact your left hand is virtually on a rock when you pull on (judging by the photos. This to me sets the "shite problem" alarm bells ringing. You'll forgive me if it turns out to be amazing but i'm not holding my breath. You never know i may try it next time i'm there and am bored, but only if theres no-one watching to take the piss.
I'm also a little confused about the logic of naming and claiming the first ascent of something that, and i quote the ascentionist, has "probably has been climbed before". Makes the person seem like they just wanna get their name in lights/on paper or something (even if that's genuinley not the intention), especially compared to all the other people who climb unlisted problems, eliminates and combinations all over that block every week but have enough sense not to go claiming everything. hopefully this "kid" as you say will learn from this episode and take a more reasoned approach in future, this sparing us and himself from all these harsh words and harsh eliminates.
peace and fucking.
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the guidebook is not definitive, ru points out that it's not supposed to be. i for one am not annoyed that someone claims a prob. my opinion that the problem is wank is my own (and consequently anyone with eyes). if i go there on sat i will prob see numerous people trying it. however i would point out that this is on a boulder with 2 of the best traverses n one of the best dyno's in the peak. i put easy in quotation marks to show that it wasn't easy just easier than something "hard". this in no way saying that 7b+ is easy, at least it's not meant too. people have seen the photo's and think it looks good and is a quality line. i have done it n don't. my cock is so big i can't really call it a willy
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ps i didn't see dave's reply, i was replying from page 3, dave has put it quite nicely. have you thought of running for orafice dave?
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dont be silly dave, no need to leave, its just a fundamental mistake...
there is a lot of banter on this sight, and 99 % of it is good humoured and chilled.... (that 1 % is for heason.net)
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why do people get such a bee in there bonnet about 8a.nu? we all know the rankings arent serious. personally i find my scorecard an easy way of recording my accents for my own reasons, and its cool wen im travelling that my mates can easily see wot im up too. i also find checking the rankings around me to find info on problems i never new existed, and also wots popular (i.e. good, quick drying, basic beta or soft at the grade :) )
i checked this humpin problem today and wud hav to agree its basically a shite one move wonder. but thats my opinion and accusatory remarks of wanting to blow ones own trumpet are unwaranted. mayb he was just posting info that he thort might be usefull. any body climbing new problems pls post them people can make their own minds up if there shite or not.
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Worthwhileness seems to be the boulderers equivalent of efficks.
So many arguments get started when someone says hey that line is a pile, why are you even talking about it? People on both sides of the offending phrase would do well to remember that as the Dude says, "hey, that's just like, your opinion".
Maybe I've misquoted, but anyway, I come back to ukb after being away from the net for a couple of days, and everyone's at daggers. What gives? Why is everyone so ANGRY?
8a.nu doesn't hurt anyone. Shit problems don't hurt anyone. Posting about problems that have been done before doesn't hurt anyone. I always find it a bit odd that people seem so aggrieved when someone claims a problem that was done years ago. It's like willy waving, but sneakier. Give me a good honest willy waving contest anyday.
There's a thing that happens with forums where veterans of the internet scene seem to get disgruntled when new people post things in the "wrong" way, or have the "wrong" attitude. Fear leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to rather repetitive and trivial arguments... Happens on ukc a lot. I hope it won't happen here...
This is a forum for discussing bouldering, no? I'd hate to see people ostrasized because regulars (accidentally or otherwise) give out I HATE YOUR POST vibes...
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A resigned attitude to shit problems being reported could best be achieved by giving everyone a copy of the Northumberland Bouldering Guide and sending them to Shafoe or Rothley (or any other large, spread out or esoteric area included within).
At first they will rage about yomping randomly through neck-high ferns to get to 3ft-high piles of crumbly sand covered in birdshit. But after a few of these experiences a strange serenity will emerge, leading to a much happier online environment.
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Worthwhileness seems to be the boulderers equivalent of efficks.
So many arguments get started when someone says hey that line is a pile, why are you even talking about it? People on both sides of the offending phrase would do well to remember that as the Dude says, "hey, that's just like, your opinion".
Maybe I've misquoted, but anyway, I come back to ukb after being away from the net for a couple of days, and everyone's at daggers. What gives? Why is everyone so ANGRY?
8a.nu doesn't hurt anyone. Shit problems don't hurt anyone. Posting about problems that have been done before doesn't hurt anyone. I always find it a bit odd that people seem so aggrieved when someone claims a problem that was done years ago. It's like willy waving, but sneakier. Give me a good honest willy waving contest anyday.
There's a thing that happens with forums where veterans of the internet scene seem to get disgruntled when new people post things in the "wrong" way, or have the "wrong" attitude. Fear leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to rather repetitive and trivial arguments... Happens on ukc a lot. I hope it won't happen here...
This is a forum for discussing bouldering, no? I'd hate to see people ostrasized because regulars (accidentally or otherwise) give out I HATE YOUR POST vibes...
hey, lets leave ostriches out of this. they can fight their own battles.
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as the Dude says, "hey, that's just like, your opinion".
Maybe I've misquoted, but anyway, I come back to ukb after being away from the net for a couple of days, and everyone's at daggers. What gives? Why is everyone so ANGRY?
"this aggression will not stand, man"
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Maybe I've misquoted, but anyway, I come back to ukb after being away from the net for a couple of days, and everyone's at daggers. What gives? Why is everyone so ANGRY?
Maybe it's because everyone's so pissed at being back at work, it's all a bit damp out there, climbing indoors is shit and no-ones got any money until the end of the month? :cry:
Then again, it's the weekend tomorrow and something might actually be dry. Well, that's what I'm banking on... :x
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when you're on about daggers n stuff i hope you're not referring to me? if a problem is wank i will tell you it's wank. i'm not, and wasn't angry at any point in the whole thread. i was pointing out that the problem was wank. also that new stuff on a boulder with lots of eliminates on probably isn't new.
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a re-read of this thread has put a smile on my face, but whilst musing through the gallery I look at picture of this new/old problem and can finally put a concern of mine to bed, I now know why the foothold on gorilla was covered in chalk last time I was there!
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i did a low traverse R to L on slopers, just left of the nose at burbage west yesterday that i dont think has been done before. im calling it si's traverse, 7a.
cheers.
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You mean the old B7 in the rockfax guide??
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i did a low traverse R to L on slopers, just left of the nose at burbage west yesterday that i dont think has been done before. im calling it si's traverse, 7a.
cheers.
I hope you're wearing body armour...?
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I didnt need body armour, its not that hard, and is low to the ground too. cheers.
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I was being facetious
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im calling it si's traverse, 7a.
cheers.
I think "the ego has landed" would be a better name?
Such modesty.
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i did it onsight-redpoint on the 8th attempt, and only put my foot on the floor once.
sorry, i just wondered what response such a claim would get. wont do it again. si.
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AKA Trolling.
Didn't really work though did it.
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ive never heard of trolling. wont do it again anyway. sorry.