UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: a dense loner on December 20, 2010, 09:51:29 am
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on saturday the gangly snake hipped iain farrar completed his millstone project, nr twicker. he's given it a stupid name which i can't remember but the climbing looks superb. rocketman rob smith recorded the ascent on his phone. grade around the 8a+/8b mark. sorry i don't know more details but thats it
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Is this the thing that looks like it has no footholds at the start, coming in from the right to reach a diagonal crimp-rail? Didn't realise it hadn't been done if it is that. Looks classic.
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Sounds good.
he's given it a stupid name
simon says get the fuck up?
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tom that sounds right, but my knowledge of millstone like most things is less than nothing
looks like very big reach from appaling matched undercut, which is a big reach to get there. womans hips req
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It's called The Bed of Procrustes.
The line is directly below Twikker up a steep wall.
T_B - When I saw the line I also thought it would have to come in from the right at the start, the direct looked horendous. Effort to Iain he did it direct!
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It's called The Bed of Procrustes.
catchy.
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Good stuff, I remember seeing this, get that footage up soon lol.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Procrustes (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Procrustes)
Deep
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Nice, I love that a grade has been offered, despite the name of the problem!
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I think the name has more to do with the shapes that the start moves force you into, but that’s just a guess.
Iain being a curmudgeonly (in a nice way) luddite he doesn’t want the vid posting on the interweb, in case it overpopularises/trashes the prob. I think he over estimates the number of boulderers in the market for 8a+/8b walls personally. I’ll try to bend his arm…
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he doesn’t want the vid posting on the interweb
hows about a courtroom style artists impression?
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or a Crimewatch style recreation of events?
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he doesn’t want the vid posting on the interweb
hows about a courtroom style artists impression?
I'd ask him but I'm having trouble getting tension on my end of the yogurt pot talky string.
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yes bonnous joyous is on the money with the shapes theory
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yes bonnous joyous is on the money with the shapes theory
Shame, I hadn't read about Procrustes before and it struck me how much grading (especially of reach dependant problems) was a Procrustean solution.
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Nice! Seems slightly paranoid about reasons for not posting vid. i doubt any airlines will be chartering a jumbo jet to fly the worlds beasts to try it
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Christ all mighty, we need some sort of new guide to keep track of all this stuff.
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Dai has already booked his flight
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Adam said Chris was on the way too ;D
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he doesn’t want the vid posting on the interweb, in case it overpopularises/trashes the prob. I think he over estimates the number of boulderers in the market for 8a+/8b walls personally.
One can never overestimate the number of idiots who will throw themselves at anything with a big number attached.
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I've got a great video of dense trying le prou :P
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Adam said Chris was on the way too ;D
And Dave, Nalle, Klem and Pooch. Schwaiger brothers couldn't make it though.
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didn't know Klem had a dog?
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isn't he called Bransby?
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he doesn’t want the vid posting on the interweb, in case it overpopularises/trashes the prob. I think he over estimates the number of boulderers in the market for 8a+/8b walls personally.
One can never overestimate the number of idiots who will throw themselves at anything with a big number attached.
I was quite looking forward to seeing the video :'(
I doubt it'll get a massive number of people throwing themselves at it because of where it is, Millstone isn't the most popular bouldering venue. It would be good to see a video of the latest Peak addition.
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Is it the brushed wall on the right of this photo?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=152998 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=152998)
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I'd tell you but I can't access UKC pics at work
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thats the smallest photo i've ever seen, i can't make out anything. i don't read ukc so i'm not a member maybe this affects the pic.
this leads us to the flip side of the coin in which we're operating at the moment iain will probably make an attempt to kill me for saying he had a vid. he like some others climbs purely for pleasure, and to feel his body, and has no interest at all whether others see the vid or know about the prob. however i've seen the vid and it looks bloody good, probably up there with the best short films i've ever seen
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We'll just have to take your word for it.
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Is it the brushed wall on the right of this photo?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=152998 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=152998)
I belayed a mate on the E2 to the right of that earlier this year and I can't imagine it's anything else.
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Have looked at that pic now (cheers cofe), yes that is the line.
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Plenty of scope for Blind Vision E10-style link ups by finishing up Twikker etc.
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then add a final pitch up David. E13 7c, 5c, 6c?
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From todays paper...
Digested read: The Bed of Procrustes by Nassim Nicholas Taleb
http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2010/dec/21/bed-of-procrustes-digested-read?INTCMP=SRCH (http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2010/dec/21/bed-of-procrustes-digested-read?INTCMP=SRCH)
In case you don't want to waste a click...
Digested read, digested: A publisher who charges £14.99 for 124 pages of trite banality is a publisher who is taking the piss.
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All I can say is f--k me, is this only 8a+?
Love the name by the way, a long time since I've heard it used in an argument.
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then add a final pitch up David. E13 7c, 5c, 6c?
Final pitch? What about Parthian and Borg?
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Just watched this. Hats off to the Sparra.
Iain described trying this last season when I saw him last, and it sounded nails - I can confirm it looks it too. I agree with Dense for a change, absorbing viewing.
People may prefer yarding on mono's to technical walls, but this looks to be some fine climbing - up there with the best hard grit the Peak has to offer. Iain is a great judge of quality, and if he thought it worthy enough for repeated trips then other locals should accept the challenge too.
:beer2:
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People may prefer yarding on mono's to technical walls
:-\
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People may prefer yarding on mono's to technical walls
:-\
You can't train for sharing crap undercuts on a Beastmaker can you Dave?
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I think having stronger fingers would make the move easier n'est-ce pas? I think if you'd said 'people may prefer climbing overhanging rock on friendly holds' you may have been more on the money :)
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no you can't train that on a beastmaker uptown but he did build a replica on the side of his house. if thats not training specific i don't know what is ;)
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I think having stronger fingers would make the move easier n'est-ce pas? I think if you'd said 'people may prefer climbing overhanging rock on friendly holds' you may have been more on the money :)
I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim. That's my point, and Iains too with his naming -
If gems like this are to be enjoyed you need to think of climbing as more than just pulling.
I'll certainly be making the long and lonely trip to Millstone to try this having seen the vid, though I concede most won't. :)
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....he did build a replica on the side of his house....
The Yeastmaker?
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....he did build a replica on the side of his house....
The Yeastmaker?
;D
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I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim.
That isn't what I said, I was pointing out that having the same levels of everything else one possesses (including wizardry) but stronger fingers will make any problem easier.
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I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim. That's my point, and Iains too with his naming -
If gems like this are to be enjoyed you need to think of climbing as more than just pulling.
I'll certainly be making the long and lonely trip to Millstone to try this having seen the vid, though I concede most won't. :)
I was going to reply to this but I need to go and take the battery out of the sanctimony alarm cos I can't hear myself think.
:o
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Here’s some screengrabs from the vid.
Iain was ok with posting these, though he did say to “Tell dense I’ll get Lillemule to finger him as punishment” for starting thread ;D
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5127/5282791438_69436772cd_b.jpg)
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(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5041/5282791440_f80ef6411b_b.jpg)
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i didn't want to post it since i know he's private, then i thought fuck it
i also knew jamies fingers would be used in the ensuing threats
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Looks good, I'll print em out and make a flick-book.
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I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim. That's my point, and Iains too with his naming -
If gems like this are to be enjoyed you need to think of climbing as more than just pulling.
I'll certainly be making the long and lonely trip to Millstone to try this having seen the vid, though I concede most won't. :)
I was going to reply to this but I need to go and take the battery out of the sanctimony alarm cos I can't hear myself think.
:o
what dave said.
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back on topic: video stills look great - looks like quite a piece of (hard) work.
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I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim. That's my point, and Iains too with his naming -
If gems like this are to be enjoyed you need to think of climbing as more than just pulling.
I'll certainly be making the long and lonely trip to Millstone to try this having seen the vid, though I concede most won't. :)
I was going to reply to this but I need to go and take the battery out of the sanctimony alarm cos I can't hear myself think.
:o
what dave said.
what Dave and Cofe said.
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someone please post up the vid, looks really good
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or post up a load more stills, so that they can be combined in an animation.
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Good effort!, it looks awesome! :great:
That's quite a lot of photos you posted, might as well just post the video, no? :shrug:
:)
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which bit of he doesn't want to put the vid on the web do people not understand?
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The bit where you mention the sodding video in the first place.
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What's that you say dense, someone has a video of the ascent? Well why don't they just post it then instead of fannying about with screengrabs?
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i said he had a video of the ascent so people would believe he'd done it, imagine claiming something and not videoing it.
the vid is for friends n family only. don't think i can't see poor attempts at peer pressure from a mile away. he did mention putting it on if fiend and jasper could be blocked
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Friends and Family you say, probably the last time you will see one of his videos then ;)
Could we have an animation using a scale model and plasticine morph(o) character?
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no, i am his father dan
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Amazing line, amazing climber with an eye for one. Its Inspiring to me to see lines like this going up still. Looks like a good magnum opus to have
Now excuse me i'm off to train for it on my beastmaker by yarding on monos which i've been doing for the last 6 months but it just doesn't seem to have gotten me anywhere on the grit this season, i better add some more weight to my weight belt. I wish i'd known about this project before it was done (for the last YEAR) or any potential new lines because i'd have rushed out to try them knowing they were actively someone elses project, luckily monoing my beastmaker keeps me happy or occasionally one of those steep wooden thingies with holds that face lots of directions, like the one Ian trained on for this.
Ooh a crimpy backhand gaston crux and fingery wall climbing, that'll never get repeated in such a remote location as millstone
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:lol:
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which bit of he doesn't want to put the vid on the web do people not understand?
You started it.
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So we're agreed then; Dense is gonna sort us out with the video. Awesome, I can't wait.
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no, what happened was i said iain had done a new prob n rocketman had recorded it on his phone. bonjoy said iain doesn't want the vid on the net, which he doesn't strangely enough.
so all in all dense says iains done a new prob, dense has seen vid. no part of this means its being posted on a bouldering site
happy fuckin xmas
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So we're agreed then; Dense is gonna sort us out with the video. Awesome, I can't wait.
Brilliant!, looking forward to it :P
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Sounds great. Look forward to seeing the video.
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When you upload the video Dense can you sort out a torrent as I quite fancy downloading it. Cheers.
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When you upload the video Dense can you sort out a torrent as I quite fancy downloading it. Cheers.
:goodidea:
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I wouldn't mind doing my own edit to some funky beats.
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that sounds good then maybe we can send it off to deadpoint mag with some local sponsor tags wow this is a brilliant idea
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Went for a wander to check this out today. It's seriously impressive.
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how about we all pop round on christmas day for a watch of the vid?
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(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/FatherDense.jpg)
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how about we all pop round on christmas day for a watch of the vid?
And celebrate his level 3 pass. :beer2: :dance1:
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i said he had a video of the ascent so people would believe he'd done it, imagine claiming something and not videoing it.
I don't believe he's done it, so would you kindly upload the video to put my mind at rest.
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Perhaps someone else could climb it whilst someone else films it and whoever edits it could pixelate out the face to avoid broadcasting restrictions?
The Day Today - IRA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOUeauLWEaE#)
(Looks like a great problem)
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:jaw: I went for a look on Wednesday, looks amazing and super hard! Good skills on the send!
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Good effort Ian it looks amazing. But was this your bedtime book?
"In this profound and playful book, Nassim Nicholas Taleb presents his ideas about life in the form of aphorisms, the world’s earliest - and most memorable - literary form. Procrustes was a character from Greek mythology who abducted travellers and invited them to spend the night in a special bed, which they had to fit to perfection. They never did. Those who were too tall had their legs chopped off; those who were too short were stretched. Every aphorism here is about a Procrustean bed of sorts – we humans, facing the limits of our knowledge, the unseen and the unknown, resolve the tension by squeezing life and the world into crisp commoditized ideas, reductive categories, specific vocabularies and pre-packaged narratives. Only by embracing the unexpected – and accepting what we don’t know – can we see the world as it really is.
About the Author
Nassim Nicholas Taleb spends most of his time as a flâneur, meditating in cafés across the planet. A former trader, he is currently Distinguished Professor at New York University’s Polytechnic Institute. His books Fooled by Randomness and The Black Swan have been published in thirty-one languages."
Happy New Year to all.
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Oh and with hindsight (at this time dwelling in a more rational and thus more socialised form of me) I apologise for any outbursts which some of you may have found challenging. Though I do wonder if any apologies are necessary, if as it seems in times of
harmony, that all is one. “Is it really that one of us is right and one of us is wrong?”[Lao Tzu]
Peace
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what is it with people sending these hard climbs and not wanting to put the footage up online? it makes no sense surely its something to show off/be proud of?
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“Is it really that one of us is right and one of us is wrong?”[Lao Tzu]
Yes, I am right and you are just plain wrong.
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what is it with people sending these hard climbs and not wanting to put the footage up online? it makes no sense surely its something to show off/be proud of?
Some people dont like to show off, and pride comes before a fall. As climbers, falling is to be avoided generally.
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Can someone able to do so repeat it and video it, and upload it? I want to see what the moves look like.
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I've seen the video - they look like moves on a rock climb. Albeit hard ones.
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Question is: is twinkle toes going to step in for a repeat and a downgrade?