UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on November 01, 2008, 07:49:28 pm
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Today Jordan Buys made the first ascent of 'The French Duke' at Earl Crag. It's one of the last great's in Yorkshire, and takes the arete to the right of Mind Bomb. It's taken him a while and needs top conditions. If the gear holds it should be pretty safe, but it's dubious. Climbing comes down to a few moves of about font 7c/+. Jordan thought E8 7a would be a suitable grade. It was well photographed and video was had, which should be up on Posing Productions website in a few days.....
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Excellent news, good effort, plum line.
(Is it North Yorks though?)
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Excellent news, good effort, plum line.
(Is it North Yorks though?)
Who knows! (Changed to Yorkshire.)
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Really don't know how these wads can climb so hard when its so cold. Sure, you don't sweat but I was at Earl today and got a touch of the hot aches after seconding a friend on Tiger's Wall. Then fell off Sour Grapes cos I couldn't feel what I was pulling on which was a bit rubbish really as I think with more feeling I might have got it.
Well done, Jordan.
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Effort! Plum line and one of yorks lgp's falls.
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Effort.
Is the wall right of this a goer?
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Effort.
Is the wall right of this a goer?
Yes, very hard and very bold.... Being tall will help.
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Effort!
Gib will be gutted (or relieved)!
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Both!
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Nice One Jordan. I always knew this day would come! Really hard route to get conditions on. I can say of my 20 plus trips to earl over the last 5 years, of half it was unclimbable. i only managed it in a oner a few times and never got it wired enough, manly cos i'm shit. But also it kind of never felt the same twice. Did he climb it on the left or the right? I was dynoing round the arete and finishing on the right! I thought E9 7a if you must know! depends how he finshed. Look forward to seeing the video. Some you win some you lose!
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Did he climb it on the left or the right? I was dynoing round the arete and finishing on the right! I thought E9 7a if you must know! depends how he finshed. Look forward to seeing the video. Some you win some you lose!
He got to good jugs, then left hand up to sidepull sloper, via a pebble, feet up, and up to pinch with right hand, adjusted feet, then up to pinch, turn to gupy, heals on(both) then up to a bad pinch with left hand, pop right right then up to jug. Done.
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Jordan has changed his mind, and in hindsight, has opted to grade it E9 7a.
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Jordan has changed his mind, and in hindsight, has opted to grade it E9 7a.
It never sounded very E8. Am keen to see some pictures, haven't been to Earl very much and I can't visualize the line.
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video was had, which should be up on Posing Productions website in a few days.....
Up now on the site. Looks very good.
https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=145 (https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=145)
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looks excellent. nice one jordan.
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Good video. That gear looks distinctly un-bomber. Boy needs to get some ballnuts.
http://www.posingproductions.com/videos/video_146.mov (http://www.posingproductions.com/videos/video_146.mov) <<< download link.
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It does look like you might get a decent ballnut in there.
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You've got to love the "nest of gear" and the adrenalin fuelled gush. Great stuff.
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http://vimeo.com/2170252?pg=embed&sec=2170252 (http://vimeo.com/2170252?pg=embed&sec=2170252)
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Has anyone else seen "Hanging Tough - top free climber and Maximuscle user Aid Baxter on how to get peak fitness..."
Maximuscle Advert.... :great:
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Excellent news, good effort, plum line.
(Is it North Yorks though?)
Excelent line, good effort.
Chris, yep Earl is in North Yorkshire.