UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Jono.r23 on November 05, 2023, 07:44:45 pm
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Just spotted this
https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/unlevel-edge
Whilst i’m kind of cynical re the potential for innovation in the realm of bits of wood for training..this has piqued my interest, particularly as i have a very short pinky & weak back two. Any thoughts?
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Poor man's Ergo Edge
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The theory makes sense, but in practice it didn't work for me. I have a custom unlevel edge, shaped specifically for my hands, and I can pull more force with a normal edge of the same depth. I gave it chance for a few weeks too, but now it only gets used on its side as a wide pinch block.
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Just spotted this
https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/unlevel-edge
Whilst i’m kind of cynical re the potential for innovation in the realm of bits of wood for training..this has piqued my interest, particularly as i have a very short pinky & weak back two. Any thoughts?
Not much to add, but I played with one of the earlier prototypes once and it felt nice to use, and gave a noticeably different feeling compared to using a flat edge. Really comfortable hold.
I know Andy and would trust whatever he told me about climbing and injuries. He’s really into the research side of it and puts a lot of time and energy into getting things right. So i think this will be a decent product 👍🏻