UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Oldmanmatt on February 06, 2016, 08:03:36 pm
-
Now, I'm fairly familiar with the guidelines and recommendations from a variety of sources and have been know to give a good "Sjamboking" to any kid unwise enough to so much as touch the campus board.
(Joke, Dense, I don't really beat (or even berate) kids).
However, when it comes to my own brood; things are more complicated.
They essentially have the run of a climbing gym and invent their own training regimes.
Today I got called through to see their latest trick (sorry, drill).
For reference, I thought the fingerboards out of reach. Apparently not if you jump from the bench or campus from the ring...
https://vimeo.com/154432853 (https://vimeo.com/154432853)
https://vimeo.com/154433044 (https://vimeo.com/154433044)
Yes, I know they're engaging the slot with their thumbs when they hang the 40*, but they think they're doing it properly.
I didn't know if I was impressed or horrified.
(Ok, I was impressed).
Normally, I subscribe to the "children under 12 need only climb to train" school. However, I never stopped them cranking out press-ups, climbing the rope or using the45* board etc and they've got quite strong.
So, this sort of training doesn't seem:-
- Particularly Plyometric
- Crimpy
- Too bad?
Is it better to encourage and work on their form or is it time to reach for the Sjambok again?
It seems impossible to stop the little buggers brachiating around the place anyway.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Reminds me of the silly things I used to do as a kid, all clean fun until I missed the scaffolding and ended up in the brambles.... Play is ok it's just when it gets repetitive, or trying when tired, that it may get risky. I say build a crack rig and kneebar press and get them involving the lower half of their body.. At least then the pain might deter them
-
I'd talk to these people, see what their guidelines are (bear in mind fingers/volar plates may be uniquely vulnerable however):
https://www.british-gymnastics.org/ (https://www.british-gymnastics.org/)
-
I'd talk to these people, see what their guidelines are (bear in mind fingers/volar plates may be uniquely vulnerable however):
https://www.british-gymnastics.org/ (https://www.british-gymnastics.org/)
That's the point, the vulnerability and Epiphyseal plate issues etc.
It's relatively easy to say "fingerboards bad" or "Campusing is the devils work" or even "Plyometrics kill"; but how does it really compare to just climbing?
We don't tell them to just use the jugs and, for instance; they've entered plenty of junior comps with steep crimpy problems.
I'm hoping to elicit some knowledgeable responses regarding the weighting between frequency of performing a given action and the action it's self, in relation to likelihood of damage.
"Too much of anything is bad", a great model; but when should you just say "not that, at all, until all growing is done"?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Never, and anyone that says otherwise has no knowledge of anything.
-
I'd talk to these people, see what their guidelines are (bear in mind fingers/volar plates may be uniquely vulnerable however):
https://www.british-gymnastics.org/ (https://www.british-gymnastics.org/)
That's the point, the vulnerability and Epiphyseal plate issues etc.
It's relatively easy to say "fingerboards bad" or "Campusing is the devils work" or even "Plyometrics kill"; but how does it really compare to just climbing?
We don't tell them to just use the jugs and, for instance; they've entered plenty of junior comps with steep crimpy problems.
I'm hoping to elicit some knowledgeable responses regarding the weighting between frequency of performing a given action and the action it's self, in relation to likelihood of damage.
"Too much of anything is bad", a great model; but when should you just say "not that, at all, until all growing is done"?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did you read this (long) article? Pretty in-depth review along with insight into what top youth climbers do.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6269 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6269)
Robin posts as Robsons on here, sure he would answer a PM or direct mail if you wanted to discuss in detail.