UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Muenchener on January 14, 2016, 04:47:22 pm
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My planned highlights for the climbing year are looking as follows:
(1) May: Frankenjura
(2) July: alpine multipitch
(3) Autumn: Mediterranean sport expedition. Favourite is Margalef as i can train specifically for it in the 'jura, but depends on ability to persuade partners.
Specifically with regard to (1), what do I do for the next four months? I'm thinking focus first on bouldering & beastmaking until about February, then shift emphasis to short endurance, but when? All of March & April?
I think I'm ok with regard to approach march fitness for (2), and all day suffering, ropework non-faffing etc are best trained by doing them. (1) and (3) are more important.
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Maybe leave it a little later to start the PE? If that was me I would start the PE in march rather than feb, though my endurance responds quite quickly to training when I actually do it.
I think as soon as you get back from your alpine stuff you would have to crack back onto the endurance stuff really quickly, I imagine you would lose your PE quite quickly doing alpine multipitch climbing?
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Maybe leave it a little later to start the PE? If that was me I would start the PE in march rather than feb,
Yep, I meant
I'm thinking focus first on bouldering & beastmaking until about end of February, then shift emphasis to short endurance, but when?
... should have been clearer
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Specifically with regard to (1), what do I do for the next four months? I'm thinking focus first on bouldering & beastmaking until about February, then shift emphasis to short endurance, but when? All of March & April?
if it was me, i'd shift my focus for about 6 weeks prior to your fj trip, of which:
-4 weeks of hard work
-2 weeks of gradual tapering (lowering the overall volume of your sessions while keeping the intensity of the hardest routes/circuits you climb, and the number of sessions per week).
also:
-i'd keep at least one short and sharp bouldering/fingerboarding session/week
-before the phase change, i'd try to have one session/week focused on a relatively big volume of easy climbing, without much rest - this can be 40 mins of non-stop autobelay machine at the gym, or two "15 minutes of continuous climbing on a circuit wall" shots.
-personally speaking i don't like sharp transitions, i'd rather "fade" from one phase to the over one or two weeks.
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i think 4 months is almost perfect for a full RCTM periodized cycle (http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/). Why not give that a shot?
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Good point. Will have another look through the book this evening.
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I've climbed very little in Frankenjura, but the little I did was on short routes with absolutely desperate moves... Is that the kind of routes your aiming for?
If I had a good base I would do a lot of strength for the first 10 weeks (bouldering and lots of 1 & 2 finger work on the fingerboard, and some general conditioning), with some conti/ long resistance thrown in every 7-10 day. Then lots of short resistance for 3-4 weeks, then tapering the last 2 weeks with simulator projects and a few days of pure power training thrown in.
If I didn't have a good base I would do a high volume of easy bouldering the first 2-3 weeks. Going from maybe 800 moves on the first sessions to around 1500 moves on the last sessions.
YMMV. (^all this is quite useless info as it only applies to me... but what do you expect...?)