UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: user deactivated on February 14, 2019, 09:19:25 pm
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Spurred on by a conversation I had with a friend at the weekend, we were talking about some of our favourite routes. The initial question was about most memorable climbs. I said the climbs had become secondary to the day out and the company at the moment, and while getting up a tough route for me was a bonus, it had become more about returning to ‘naive’ experiences which I find hard to get by returning to the same sport project or boulder session after session. So I got to thinking about great climbing experiences on more esoteric or ‘backwater’ bits of rock which are safe and great for boulders too as they offer short sequences of amazing moves by good protection. I’d be interested to hear what you guys think and if there’s any you could add for me to look this grit season? Criteria is generally less than 10 logs in ukc and preferably 0-5 and unlikely to be being tried by anyone else. Ones I’ve done over more recent ish years and would recommend-
Clock People e6 6c (Ron 1984) -Millstone. Well protected thin crack and slab climbing with a font 7b crux on worn peg scars and opposing crack edges. The boulder problem start to this is a real technical gem.
Poppers e6 6c (Richie Patta 1994) - Baslow edge. Less ascents than its neighbour ‘the grand potato’. The font 7a+ dynamic start is quality but the route really kicks in after the break with fierce crimping and then a fluffable top out. Richie was crazy to give this e5! Top wall as hard as the crux of messiah?
The Lost World e6 6c (John Allen 1985)- Carl Walk. One of the more popular on the list. An easy start to a break followed by a hard press into an undercut feature and a reachy and powerful font 7a+ move off this to the break. It was a bit of an eyeballs on stalks slap for me.
Declaration e6 7a (Dave Pegg 1986) - Rivelin Needle. 6b ish moves up a thin crack to a full on boulder problem of a surprising right hold into ratty layaway crimps, feet on smears. I can’t think of anything as hard I’ve done on the edge. Much harder than big Al and Sparks.
The Children’s House e5 7a (John Allen 1986) - Cratcliffe. Climb suicide wall direct via the tricky finger crack to the small pod like cave. Rock up to a gnarly crimp layaway with your left, tension smear into high right foot. Hold a rat shit slopey beak feature, take a shallow runnel and pop for a tufa or slopey jug. Intense.
Adios Amigo e5 6b (Mark Leach 1985) - Millstone. Unusual moves out of a corner on thin holds to catch shot holes. Aliens or rolled over rock 9’s I think I used. Very strange and good climbing up these to a flake and ledge. Top end e5.
Mirror Mirror e5 6b (Andrew Woodward 1977) - amazing climbing on the block above Tetris. Move up and into an undercut arch feature split by a finger crack. Steadier than the other routes mentioned but safe and bouldery.
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The sequence on Lost World is fantastic. New Mediterranean and Moolah would be ultimate examples of this kind of route if they weren't marginally too popular. I'm sure I can think of more.
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Did you find adios amigo safe? I'm never too sure on shot holes.
I know you said backwater but I've included stanage as you included millstone and rivelin.
Flight of ideas E7 7a 7B above a break
Feet neat E5 6c above a peg I think
Smoked salmon big fall, seen it done on TR can't be harder than 7B/+?
Linkline I hear this is much more difficult than E5 would suggest
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Flame Arete at Hawkcliffe is very good. You're likely to be the only people at the crag. It's very safe and bouldery. There's other good stuff in similar style at the crag and there's some very bold routes that you could do a quick headpoint of too.
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Thanks guys, yeah moolah and new meditaranian are great, surprisingly tricky to fiddle that gear in at the break. Always catches me out. I’ve had a rope on flight last year Ashton, it’s surprisingly not to bad, although a bit on / off and even though well protected it strikes me as a weird fall. Has you done it? Or anyone fallen off it? I’d imagine it would be a good one for JB to os or flash. Adios Amigo is reasonably safe until the final moves then gets a bit ground fall potential on green 5b territory. Maybe test the pro in the shot holes on the left first? Pretty unique climbing. Cheers for the hawkcliffe reminder will, I remember being inspired by and old photo of that in the Yorkshire grit bible. Actually was thinking Lancashire has a lot to offer, loads of the stuff at Wilton 1 like Josser and KP nuts. May need a sensitive and appropriate garden though just in case Chris is reading 😬
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I thought all gardening/cleaning rules don’t count in Lancs quarries ;)
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I remember really enjoying Mickey Finn at Gardoms. Doesn't seem to get done that often but it's well protected and gymnastic.
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KP Nuts at the The Roaches too.
Lol @ Tomtom!
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The Secret Slab at Bosley Cloud is worth a visit for Crystal Voyager, a beautiful highball/solo E3 and Slender Thread - a cruxy E5 6b.
Is Speak The Truth at Hall Moor Quarry still standing?
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The Secret Slab at Bosley Cloud is worth a visit for Crystal Voyager, a beautiful highball/solo E3 and Slender Thread - a cruxy E5 6b.
Good call.
How about The Face at Belmont Hall, assuming the cheeky peg is still in?
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I've done Crystal Voyager, it was ace. Decent gear too, don't even need two pads :)
Need to get back to Belmont Hall....
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I remember really enjoying Mickey Finn at Gardoms. Doesn't seem to get done that often but it's well protected and gymnastic.
I heard somewhere that Paul Mitchell routes don’t count? Been meaning to go to Bosley Cloud for ages! Has anyone here been to the main crag at Mow Cop. Get ready for a pagga with the locals :boxing:
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KP Nuts at the The Roaches too.
Lol @ Tomtom!
Yeah didn’t even realise that existed
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Been meaning to go to Bosley Cloud for ages! Has anyone here been to the main crag at Mow Cop.
If you go to Bosley you have to Hot Tin Roof as well. The only reason to go to Mow Cop was to summit The Old Man, but that's banned now.
Metaphysical Scoop at the Nth Cloud is very minor but has one ace move.
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I haven't done it (let alone top-roped it :ang: ) but I've always thought that Camel Hot's only reason for being neglected must be that it's on the north-facing side of Black Rocks.
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Cheers Mike, I think I belated Jonboy on that when I did discombobulator. It looked fuckin desperate
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Good thread Dan, I'm enjoying your recent UKB contributions. I remember a similar thread a few years ago and there may be some stuff on this that suits - https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24910.msg463278.html#msg463278
The gritlist is a great resource and has lots of good info.http://gritlist.wikifoundry.com/ Me and Neil were keeping this up to date when we were doing a lot of headpointing using more than 2 pads ( :spank: :sorry: etc), it would be great if you could add some info on the stuff you've done recently to it
I’ve had a rope on flight last year Ashton, it’s surprisingly not to bad, although a bit on / off and even though well protected it strikes me as a weird fall. Has you done it? Or anyone fallen off it? I’d imagine it would be a good one for JB to os or flash.
I fell of it loads and it's fine. That wasn't ground up either, it's just hard! Especially if you can't lank to the break from stood on the left foot pebble.
Rivelin quarry a good shout.
Feet Neet E5 6c is a good suggestion. Surprisingly powerful. font 7A+ ish, the peg is good.
Mr Creosote E5 6c, font 7Aish, slabby arete on tenuous smears, again a good peg and small cam to back it up.
Flex E5/6 6c, 6C+ish slab on thin edges to the pegs (2 pads fine), a sort of no-handed rockover then much easier
Bear Necessities, E5 6b, quite technical but safe arete and groove. Lovely little route
Teddy Bears Picnic E4 6b Hard finger crack
Avoiding the Traitors E6/7 6c Bamford, with pads clipped to the gear and draped down the wall it's not that dangerous. Great sequence, font 6C/+ ish ?
Gift for Grumpy E4 6b Stanage Popular - A Paul Mitchell micro gem! Dyno from a cam slot to a break. font 6c
Winters Grip E6 6b Millstone - Safe if you have a couple of short thin pegs. The crux is right next to the first one, and also protected by cams on the left. Good flatty to place the second peg from and the finish is a bit easier.
The Cheesemonger E5/6 6b Kinder Southern Edges - pre-placed wire (impossible to place?), great sequence up the flake and pocket, a mini Strapadictomy.
Cover Me in Chocolate.. E6 6c Shining Clough - Brilliant route. Crimp up good edges then jump for the sloper. font 6C+ ?
Neptunes Tool E6 6c Wimberry - Hard start and amazing slab above on fat pebbles
My Part in His Downfall E6 6c Kinder Downfall - good thin mantel/press move. font 7A/+ish. We're getting quite esoteric now...
Not grit but I think you'd like Yuppie's Arete at Helsby. I thought the gear was bomber hence more like E6 6c. font 7Aish.
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Nice one Mark, loads to go at there! I really like Rivelin quarries and did flex a few years ago but haven’t been back for feet neat etc. I’d really like to do Earth Boots this year. The other one is chocolate swastika that looks cool at Hallam View Buttress. It would be good to have a similar lime thread come the season. I wandered up to stoney west a month or so ago and there’s some mega looking e5’s on the last buttress
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Good Clean Fun is a really cool little route (safe and bouldery E4 with the side runner, E5 without - then maybe not now, with a pad?)
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Lancashire is all esoteric and there are a couple of hidden gems. Reputedly... ;)
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Good Clean Fun is a really cool little route (safe and bouldery E4 with the side runner, E5 without - then maybe not now, with a pad?)
Aye, exaltation looks pretty good up there too. And a nice write up in peak rock
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Of all the crags i went to when in Yorkshire, I always regret not visiting the proper backwater of Great Wolfrey. All looks so good.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1992
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That does look mega Chris, Red Riding Hood in particular. And it looks like Will has been on it too.
It would be nice to visit a good crag in Yorkshire for a change to the usual cow shit, scrittle, miserable buggers and soft touches
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Good Clean Fun is a really cool little route (safe and bouldery E4 with the side runner, E5 without - then maybe not now, with a pad?)
It’s a great quality highball these days. Even better with the direct start, a nice dynamic move to the slot, then each move slightly easier than the last until you’re at the top a long way above the pad/postage stamp
I remember Nathan saying he cleaned Chocolate Swastika a few years ago but was kicked off by the landowner
I abbed and cleaned years of moss off Earth Boots a couple of years ago but couldn’t even pull into the positions, desperate crimping!
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With Earth boots it's probably worth going out one evening and cleaning it and seeing if it's dry. I went out and tried it again in the autumn after a load of dry weather and the moss at the top was back leaking down the wall. But yeah, the move in the break is just desperate!
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It would be nice to visit a good crag in Yorkshire for a change to the usual cow shit, scrittle, miserable buggers and soft touches
Anywhere bit Almscliffe then. We used to make it a policy to never deliberately go there on a weekend, as you would always end up defaulting to there at some point.
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Dave Warbs did some stuff at Eavestone over the weekend.
Strange Attractor which has had a couple of ascents since I cleaned it. He said it was an easy start into a poky couple of moves and a thank-god tree root at the top (which you may have to dig out). Said it could feel more like 6b if you used a pocket for (poor?) gear. A bit poky for an E3 6a matless solo.
He also did Touching The Void above a couple of pads, though I've done this with a runner on the tree to the right.
And he cleaned and soloed Don't Worry, I'm a Nurse. I think he said that was something like 6/7m of unprotected 6a off the floor to a break then slots, flatties, and "dusty bilge" to the top.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt_FuCAhC1Y/?utm_source=ig_web_options_share_sheet
There's a really nice couple of days of clean trad to be had at Eavestone between HVS and E3/4.
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Nice one. Never got back in Autumn before i spannered myself. Any slabs there? I've done King Of The Castle or whatever it was....
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What do you consider to be a slab. I don't there's any friction slabs there. It's all walls.
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Dave Warbs did some stuff at Eavestone over the weekend
And he cleaned and soloed Don't Worry, I'm a Nurse. I think he said that was something like 6/7m of unprotected 6a off the floor to a break then slots, flatties, and "dusty bilge" to the top.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt_FuCAhC1Y/?utm_source=ig_web_options_share_sheet
There's a really nice couple of days of clean trad to be had at Eavestone between HVS and E3/4.
There used to be a couple of bomber rps in the crack 27 years ago.
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Dave has been notably shit at spotting blindingly obvious gear tho.
Will, find me more slabs please, thanks.
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Have you done the Crow Crag ones?
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I don't know how you can say he's notably shit at finding gear. I can't think of any times when he's missed an obvious placement.
And to be fair to him he was at the crag on his own and soloed the routes above a pad or two, so probably didn't look very hard for gear that he wasn't going to use.
Actually, thinking about it, I don't think he mentioned a lack of gear in the crack. I think that was me making an assumption.
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Fake news Will, always muddying the waters. What am I supposed to believe now? :shrug:
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It would be nice to visit a good crag in Yorkshire for a change to the usual cow shit, scrittle, miserable buggers and soft touches
Anywhere bit Almscliffe then. We used to make it a policy to never deliberately go there on a weekend, as you would always end up defaulting to there at some point.
Almscliffe comes second in line to Brimham as one of the most over rated crags in Britain
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Almscliffe comes second in line to Brimham as one of the most over rated crags in Britain
Agreed
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Yeah it’s like some sort of mass delusion backed up by hysterical Yorkshiremen
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It would be nice to visit a good crag in Yorkshire for a change to the usual cow shit, scrittle, miserable buggers and soft touches
Anywhere bit Almscliffe then. We used to make it a policy to never deliberately go there on a weekend, as you would always end up defaulting to there at some point.
Almscliffe comes second in line to Brimham as one of the most over rated crags in Britain
Didn’t we once have a conversation about Almscliff where you said there wasn’t anywhere (or very few places) with such a concentration and number of problems? :)
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Who with me? No way. I’ve always maintained it’s a cow pat strewn hell hole. Don’t try any mind tricks on me mate, I’ve broken out of the matrix ✌️
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:D
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Don’t try any mind tricks on me mate, I’ve broken out of the matrix ✌️
Joined Andy Kirkpatrick taking the red pill!
You should probably get them to take you off the crag front page :lol:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=538
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Almscliff is terrible and people only climb there because it dries instantly. The worst crag in Yorkshire in the most conditions-fortunate location.
Will: he missed about a rack's worth of gear on an E3 FA on the North York Moors coast, admittedly a good route.
Alex: I went there, it was scrittly and even the warm-up E2 was sketchy. I might have grovelled my way over the top of the thing on the E3/4 on the left with the proper sized cam. The right hand slab looked very hard all round.
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Don’t try any mind tricks on me mate, I’ve broken out of the matrix ✌️
Joined Andy Kirkpatrick taking the red pill!
You should probably get them to take you off the crag front page :lol:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=538
I don’t know what you’re on about but I’m certainly not joining him doing anything. Not unless I wanted the piss taken out of me intolerably or the red pill zombied me out somehow? Anyway who tf is that guy? Not me cos he’s got hair! You know what I mean.....
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Almscliff is terrible and people only climb there because it dries instantly.
And it's easy to get to for a quick hit from Leeds.
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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.
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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.
Testify! There is a reason its popular beyond the fact its close to Leeds...
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Its obviously a very good crag, its also obviously very over-hyped.
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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.
:agree: I love it despite getting spanked most times I go.
This forum feels like an outlet for people who don’t like cliffs or climbers some days. :shrug:
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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.
What does that mean JB? Can’t see what the climbing difficulty has to do with the general vibe of the place and not liking it. Over populated cow pat strewn wind tunnel it is 😉. Mass delusion propagated by hysterical Yorkshiremen and new wave sniffy hipsters.
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I may actually have come up with a good suggestion - "Over the Moors" (E5 6b) at the Ravenstones. Looks like a blank grit slab - which it is - that just happens to have a perfect gear slot right where you want it, very unusual. Lovely place, other good routes to do and likely to be quiet. Only downside is that the route is also likely to be green after winter.
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This forum feels like an outlet for people who don’t like cliffs or climbers some days. :shrug:
:lol:
Next ukb T-shirt?
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That sounds like a fantastic idea Andy, will definitely take a look. My only concern is that cleaning the lichen may contravene the ‘third law of robotics’ as devised here.
Mike it’s important to explore ones shadow self (in the jungian sense) here through copious ammounts of negativity aimed wildly at otherwise seemingly untouchable random subsets of climbers and climbing.
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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.
What does that mean JB? Can’t see what the climbing difficulty has to do with the general vibe of the place and not liking it. Over populated cow pat strewn wind tunnel it is 😉. Mass delusion propagated by hysterical Yorkshiremen and new wave sniffy hipsters.
Hysterical Yorkshiremen. Have you heard yourself, you sound like the fool JB’s referring too.
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Like in the Mr T sense? Have you heard yourself? Referring to*.... too
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I may actually have come up with a good suggestion - "Over the Moors" (E5 6b) at the Ravenstones. Looks like a blank grit slab - which it is - that just happens to have a perfect gear slot right where you want it, very unusual. Lovely place, other good routes to do and likely to be quiet. Only downside is that the route is also likely to be green after winter.
I didn't realise we were still allowed to make suggestions, but since you've bucked the trend with a moorland suggestion, how about The Ledge Shufflers at Kinder Downfall. It might be a bit busy with walkers over the top of the crag, but it's a cracking route, safe enough with cams 4, 5, and 6, plus RPs, some guile needed to keep it safe at the start (don't worry, I don't mean >2 pads), unlikely to be any other climbers at the crag, great moves, spectacular location. Actually one of my favourite grit experiences.
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Cheers Reeve! I was up on kinder on New Year’s Day with the little one on my back. It reminded me I’d like to get up there climbing at some point, and like mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.
On the point of Almscliff mass hysteria (which isn’t entirely serious webbo) the phenomenon reminds me of the ‘Liverpool Leprechaun Hunt of 1964’ but instead of a mass of adults and school children hunting for little fellas with pots of gold, there’s a mass of simean postured, cross eyed jobsters in bright and fluorescent garb searching for metaphorical pots of gold under sanctified lumps of overhanging brown stuff. The only component shamefully missing being ‘a man with bushy eyebrows drinking piss weak ale’
http://www.strangehistory.net/2012/05/14/the-leprechauns-of-liverpool-and-the-bowling-green-from-hell/
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Cheers Reeve! I was up on kinder on New Year’s Day with the little one on my back. It reminded me I’d like to get up there climbing at some point, and like mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.
On the point of Almscliff mass hysteria (which isn’t entirely serious webbo) the phenomenon reminds me of the ‘Liverpool Leprechaun Hunt of 1964’ but instead of a mass of adults and school children hunting for little fellas with pots of gold, there’s a mass of simean postured, cross eyed jobsters in bright and fluorescent garb searching for metaphorical pots of gold under sanctified lumps of overhanging brown stuff. The only component shamefully missing being ‘a man with bushy eyebrows drinking piss weak ale’
http://www.strangehistory.net/2012/05/14/the-leprechauns-of-liverpool-and-the-bowling-green-from-hell/
So actually your main problem with the crag is that its popular. If that isn't new wave sniffy hipster, I don't know what is...
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Cheers Reeve! I was up on kinder on New Year’s Day with the little one on my back. It reminded me I’d like to get up there climbing at some point, and like mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.
On the point of Almscliff mass hysteria (which isn’t entirely serious webbo) the phenomenon reminds me of the ‘Liverpool Leprechaun Hunt of 1964’ but instead of a mass of adults and school children hunting for little fellas with pots of gold, there’s a mass of simean postured, cross eyed jobsters in bright and fluorescent garb searching for metaphorical pots of gold under sanctified lumps of overhanging brown stuff. The only component shamefully missing being ‘a man with bushy eyebrows drinking piss weak ale’
http://www.strangehistory.net/2012/05/14/the-leprechauns-of-liverpool-and-the-bowling-green-from-hell/
So actually your main problem with the crag is that its popular. If that isn't new wave sniffy hipster, I don't know what is...
My experience of Almscliff from a chuffing point of view is that its only every busy on sunny summer/spring/autumn evenings.. If you go during decent grit connies the bouldering may have a few people out and about, but theres rarely anyone on the routes....
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I've done routes in decent grit connies there....
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jtfo7VFqgi8/VK8BKtX3zeI/AAAAAAAABWo/eNENilzLxnY/s1600/clematis1.jpg)
....and was moaning about the crag before it became cool:
Prior to this and prior to 2015 appearing out of nowhere, I did actually get down to the grit grit, including amongst other places Almscliff, the most overrated crag in Yorkshire that people only go to because it's the quickest drying crag in the entire UK. I have a love/hate relationship with it: Some of the routes and problems are pretty cool, but the relentless hordes and unforgivable sin of giving the distinctly medicore arbitrary link-up semi-route Great Western 3 stars leave a disinterested taste in my maw. I also seem to end up there in slightly iffy weather due to having been drizzled off elsewhere, thus making the bouldering feel even grimmer than usual. On the other hand this was not the case the other week, when the weather was truly magnificent and the inspiration to rattle off a few short and thuggy routes was high. I didn't do anything that hard (Whisky Wall turning out to be a steady E2 with bomber gear without the spurious side-runners, but fun and unusually positive pocket-pulling), but I did get cranking pretty readily despite having a week off with a tweaky shoulder over Christmas.
:off: :off: :off: etc etc.
Back on topic I might start throwing in some at my lowly level. The Phantom @ Gradbach Hill, for starters.
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mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.
Saucius is great (and didn't need cleaning when I did it), as is the whole of Shining Clough. Bloodrush is incredible but doesn't really fit your original criteria. On Kinder T'Big Surrey is really good but again is bold-ish rather than bouldery.
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Cheers Reeve! I was up on kinder on New Year’s Day with the little one on my back. It reminded me I’d like to get up there climbing at some point, and like mark20 mentioned shinning clough also. I’ve never done saucius digitalis which looks mega.
On the point of Almscliff mass hysteria (which isn’t entirely serious webbo) the phenomenon reminds me of the ‘Liverpool Leprechaun Hunt of 1964’ but instead of a mass of adults and school children hunting for little fellas with pots of gold, there’s a mass of simean postured, cross eyed jobsters in bright and fluorescent garb searching for metaphorical pots of gold under sanctified lumps of overhanging brown stuff. The only component shamefully missing being ‘a man with bushy eyebrows drinking piss weak ale’
http://www.strangehistory.net/2012/05/14/the-leprechauns-of-liverpool-and-the-bowling-green-from-hell/
So actually your main problem with the crag is that its popular. If that isn't new wave sniffy hipster, I don't know what is...
Nah, I really can’t stand the place. The hipsters and jobsters just make it worse
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I think Mark20 mentioned bloodrush or was that the direct finish to Great Wall? Looks mega again... been meaning to try saucius after having a day up there in the late 90’s. Got seriously midged off.
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Cover me in Chocolate is the direct finish to Great Wall. Big, but safe enough fall. Wouldn't want to fall off Bloodrush! Great Wall also a mega route and well protected.
Neil rated the bouldery 'Puzzle Weasel' route to the right but I just remember it being quite reachy/hard, though it would fit your short and safe criteria.
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I have just thought of another having scrolled through the gritlist - The Beast of Bauston, along the track from Black Rocks. Break to break mantels, lanks and a dyno, with bomber cams. I've not done it, but would be keen to try it.
Northern Comfort at the Roaches?
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Aye I’ve always looked up at northern comfort. Wondered if it was just for lanksters
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Yorick’s crack at running hill pits 😬
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Great Wall also a mega route and well protected.
Top wall looks coated in white guano from ground - is it okay to do then? Quite fancied it till saw that...
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I seem to remember that bit isn't too hard, but a bird often nests in the cave towards the top (hence the muck). Big cams 3.5/4ish useful for the belay
Dan, have you ever looked at those routes on the right of the 2nd quarry at Running Hill Pits? "Liquor, Loose Women.." E5 6c and "Breakin' for a Bogey" E6 6c, off vertical walls with cruxes past pegs. Look good but will need de-greening
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Cheers.
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Hi Mark, not been to running hill pits in years. I hear the spanner has gone these days? Will definitely check out those routes as planning to go up there pretty soon. Although apparently the grit season is over for the year 😢
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Flame Arete at Hawkcliffe is very good. You're likely to be the only people at the crag. It's very safe and bouldery. There's other good stuff in similar style at the crag and there's some very bold routes that you could do a quick headpoint of too.
I went for a look once after removing all skin at Earl. The routes all looked amazing, but green and damp - possibly a small window when they are in condition? Late spring?
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A long vid of a short route! Yorick’s crack. Climbed after abseil inspection (just in case I need to explain myself 😉) I’d probably agree more with the original grade of e6 as opposed to the bmc guide grade of e5. A country mile harder than Sagittarius flake and better too.
https://vimeo.com/319374023
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Turtle power - Stanage.
Holy crap. The first route I’ve been to look at in ages that I definitely won’t be going back to.
Desperate
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You probably just need to put in some energy systems work! ;D
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Jesus Christ you’re like a bad rash. 😉
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I can’t work out whether you dislike the world or yourself the most.
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Wow :tumble:
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Anyway back on the esoteric grit. The start to Saltation. What’s the deal? It must step of the block? Then a long move or high step to the break. Harder than the snowball grade of v6 given on ukc I thought
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You seem to have a go at everything that does not fit with your view of the world.
With the implication that if anyone should criticise you will stop posting.
Which would be shame as do I like your stuff.
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Anyway back on the esoteric grit. The start to Saltation. What’s the deal? It must step of the block? Then a long move or high step to the break. Harder than the snowball grade of v6 given on ukc I thought
I think the V6 grade mentioned is for the top bit - the lower part was well buried 2013!
I heard some pebbles snapped on Turtle Power so that may be why that feels hard? But I can't remember where I heard that.
Speaking of snapped pebbles, have you heard of anyone doing Salmon Direct at Bamford in the last couple of years? It felt really hard, and when I checked the sequence on Shock/Consumed vid when I got home I thought it must have lost a pebble or two
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Webbo, I’m just being a knob. Honestly I would pretty much ignore 90% of what I write.
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Hey up Mark! Do you mean smoked salmon the e8 7b? Or the original Salmon.
I see now about saltation. Mega looking bottom bit. The lower crux felt about 7a+/b on ab.
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Plus the hand placed peg is absolutely solid. Decided not to try ground up as didn’t want to be thrashing around on that placement
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Webbo, I’m just being a knob. Honestly I would pretty much ignore 90% of what I write.
Including the above. ;)
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It’s an open expression of ambivalence.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ambivalence
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I see now about saltation. Mega looking bottom bit. The lower crux felt about 7a+/b on ab.
I've abbed this too. Lower crux steps off the boulder onto crimpy sidepulls, trending up and right. No way its 7a+/b, you missed have missed something Dan, as with your steely fingers I'd have thought it'd feel fine. Fingers do need to be well warmed up though as it is bouldery. The top bit (Exaltation section) is definitely slightly harder although different in style. Very unobvious and slopey / conditionsey. Great route, keen to get back. P.s. first peg slot also takes a bomber ball nut if you have them.
Speaking of snapped pebbles, have you heard of anyone doing Salmon Direct at Bamford in the last couple of years? It felt really hard, and when I checked the sequence on Shock/Consumed vid when I got home I thought it must have lost a pebble or two
Not heard of anyone doing this recently Mark, though you never know. Have tried it very briefly on ab, the move up for the slopey edge would have been easier with an extra pebble or two for sure. I nearly did the move by wrapping a left thumb round an OK pebble and bouncing up off a left foot pebble but it started to rain before I actually managed it. Hitting but not hanging. Its a long dynamic move to a bad hold so its possible that my "feeling close" was actually "a miss is as good as a mile". Watching the Scut vid it actually is similar to how he does it. Having a brand new left boot would probably help enormously. Again something I'm keen to go back to.
Thinking bout these two it would be a good challenge to do all the Dawes routes on Peak grit, wonder if anyone (except Dawes) has done that? Angel's Share and Smoked Salmon are probably the stoppers, and I'm not aware of anyone who has done both, so maybe not? If either of you are getting out on these any time and need a partner give me a try.
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Shortly after Scut’s ascent Of Smoked Salmon a keen youth apparently snapped an important pebble whilst on the sharp end, but topped it out anyway (sound familiar?). Not sure it’s been done since.
There were stories about hold loss on Turtle Power back in the day, at least that was the standard excuse. Surely El Mocho has done it?
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Hey up chaps, yeah it wasn’t exactly ideal up there yesterday being blown around in a force nine gale, also had a poor nights sleep and woke up with a cold, plus my IBS was playing up so not surprising it felt hard (does anyone have any other good excuses? I’m running low 😂). Funnily I was looking for info on turtle power and found el mocho mentioning it in an interview for dmm. It was quite a nice interview as he reflected on when ‘hard’ stuff feels easy and ‘easy’ stuff feels hard “I guess that’s the way it goes” Nice philosophy.
I’ll take the steely fingers compliment Nige but according to my 1 armed hang edge ability, I’m weaker than a new born kitten
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There were stories about hold loss on Turtle Power back in the day, at least that was the standard excuse. Surely El Mocho has done it?
I wasn't going to say anything as it maybe will make me sound like a knob...
I think some pebbles snapped off the start (and there is no sign of the rps mentioned in the guide)
I went up the bottom wall a little to the right of the original line (but still left of the arete) and then did the next section via a hard undercut move, then gets easier...
Knob bit - I rope soloed it for no real reason other than being on my own that day. I did do it in approach shoes (these mega Evolv ones I have) as it made it easier - I was jumping to the first break and it was nicer landing in trainers (I had no pads with me) and also the foot holds I used were big smeary ones. For the next bit (maybe the crux, with the undercuts) it was easier in my trainers - high foot on a massive smeary hold, power stand up into undercut. Fell off the time I tried it in rock boots.
There have been a few other routes I've found to be easier in these trainers - I even went so far as to get a pair a size smaller(Skidoo left, Darkness falling... any problem at the works standing on volumes)
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Agadoo at Leashaw Brow fits the niche criteria, decent bit of climbing and no harder than E6.
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There you go Dan, just do it in trainers :lol:
Matlock esoterica in general is a good plan.
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The undercut sequence did look / feel very powerful. I wondered if it would have felt easier when not trying to pull on from dangling. There is a pebble cluster above the break which has snapped with 1/2 really sharp big pebble left standing. Think I may just have to consider that one above my pay grade Fiend 😂. Waddage to el mocho for that sequence / ascent!
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Speaking of snapped pebbles, have you heard of anyone doing Salmon Direct at Bamford in the last couple of years? It felt really hard, and when I checked the sequence on Shock/Consumed vid when I got home I thought it must have lost a pebble or two
Not heard of anyone doing this recently Mark, though you never know. Have tried it very briefly on ab, the move up for the slopey edge would have been easier with an extra pebble or two for sure. I nearly did the move by wrapping a left thumb round an OK pebble and bouncing up off a left foot pebble but it started to rain before I actually managed it. Hitting but not hanging. Its a long dynamic move to a bad hold so its possible that my "feeling close" was actually "a miss is as good as a mile". Watching the Scut vid it actually is similar to how he does it. Having a brand new left boot would probably help enormously. Again something I'm keen to go back to.
Thinking bout these two it would be a good challenge to do all the Dawes routes on Peak grit, wonder if anyone (except Dawes) has done that? Angel's Share and Smoked Salmon are probably the stoppers, and I'm not aware of anyone who has done both, so maybe not? If either of you are getting out on these any time and need a partner give me a try.
Franco did the move on Smoked Salmon that way.
Sorry I actually meant the first move to leave the break on Salmon Original / Direct, seen here (he finishes up the Original)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9UT5-Xw60U
I think the pebble he uses with his RH is gone.
This describes the line quite well http://www.oocities.org/yosemite//4755/climbing/topos/salmon.html
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This describes the line quite well http://www.oocities.org/yosemite//4755/climbing/topos/salmon.html
From the notes on The Salmon "Reclimbed by Dawes 1995, after it lost a crucial pebble (used to rock up onto to gain the far right-hand pockets)." Anyone know when the pebble referred to went? Aking a friend (actually, I onsighted The Salmon in 1991 and am wondering what state I did it in).
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Yarp yarp yarp
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/07/the-journey-begins/
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Warning don’t read mid ancap base phase as it may disrupt the hyper vascularisation process.
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/08/dharma-driven/
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I’ve got a board in my back garden, it’s got no holds on it and I don’t climb. I often recline under it stretching my hips and reciting Vogon poetry lit up by a portable lamp used by lampers. It annoys the shit out of the neighbour.
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/09/flexible-mindless/
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Guest ‘poet’ doylo99
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/10/my-jokeman/
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Grainy beta vid of a nice wall climb in Anglezarke. Climbed redpoint style on tied off pegs and some pro low down. Very good effort of Jordan onsighting this. Particularly considering the hold visibility and technicality of it.
https://vimeo.com/330723108
On a slightly different note I climbed sole survivor the day before. Headed there expecting a bit of an unsung gem only to find a top rope problem caked in chalk and smiley ticks literally everywhere. Spent a good 45 mins cleaning then tied off the pegs. I thought it was probably e3 6b doing it this way. Did fall off the top moves which are tricky.
It made me think of crags and climbs that are becoming like ‘sacrificial lambs’. ‘My first e6 headpoint’ get on it 🤯
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it was probably e3 6b doing it this way. Did fall off the top moves which are tricky.
Give over.
Several very good climbers didnt onsight it.
E3 :clap2:
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Ah sorry you’re right. e2 6b it is or h3 in Franco-coin or just a wonderful world of fairy dust, hobbits and pixies all listening to van MorrisoN
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Did you clean off the E4 arete (Don Juan or something) while you were there?? I expect despite being much easier and almost as good a line, it doesn't get nearly as much attention from the baggers and tickers and accumulaters?
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It's never seen E6. Felt E4/ soft E5 to me, onsight without cleaning on a hot humid day in July. Who are these 'very good' climbers?
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I don’t know who they are? Not me that’s for sure. Maybe u and mark. you guys have history of good form. e3 6b seemed pretty fair given the excellent conditions and tied off pegs. Certainly easier than King Kong on a sweaty day. It did bring to light the amazing difference between onsight climbing and having prior knowledge as we go into the summer. And also that e3 or whatever we call it is actually quite a high standard to o/s
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I don't think 'E3' is but E4 6b certainly can be.
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Barry Gibb on Radio Hate
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/19/radio-hate/
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While taking a break from Joe Rogans latest insightful podcast, I switched to Jack Johnson on my Spotify account and thought about all the things he sang about. Really truly emotional. Like Justin Bieber on acid on acid on acid.
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/20/anti-anti-folk/
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Matt said I was finding my own way home if I toproped it, and anyway he wouldn’t belay me. It was still a circus if I tried it on his preplaced gear, and ‘probably about e5 this way.’ He messaged Andy in America for the FA details and got a reply. I made a fair effort or so I thought, then slumped on the rope and thought about ‘the eniGma’.
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/29/time-is-serious/
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What route is this? I;m not cool enough to know :sorry:
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Ah sorry man, it’s one chromosome is missing at Harston rocks. Please, there’s definitely no cool going on here. 😂
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Looks boss. Good effort
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He messaged Andy in America for the FA details and got a reply.
It tickled me to be sat in my living room in Pennsylvania relaying beta direct to Fiend at Harstons (by the way, I did the 2nd ascent, FA was Nick Dixon).
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Props to Fiend. The Enigma is mostly fell-running nowadays...
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Yes it was quite surreal Andy, I had a warm glow when Matt said ‘Andy says hi’.
Never mind props to Fiend. The eniGma never existed. We all go that way in the end.
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It's worth noting that despite putting his money/sliders where his mouth in by encouraging some "grey area" climbing style, Fiend is a bloody disgrace. Having relished the adventure of the exploratory climbing experience by spending more time on social media than actually climbing (admittedly chatting to Andy was the second highlight of the day after the lovely wriggly greeting that Pippin gave me at Chez Cheetham - Fiend seems distinctly better at dog cuddles than climbing), he proceeded to spend about an hour on DNA moaning about it being too sweaty and pumpy, before getting midway into the crux next to bomber gear and choosing to give in to the discomfort and doubt and let go, rather than fully attempting the move. Thence throwing the guidebook down the hill (with some justification, whoever wrong "gear doesn't inspire confidence" needs to be banned from writing anything about climbing ever again), and then forgetting it (free copy if anyone goes back), and sulking for the whole evening - before eating too late, going to bed still in a sulk and having a prolonged indigestion / queasiness bout that necessitated retreating to the sofa with plenty of early hours time to further worry about DNA before passing out "some time" after 3:30am. Oh and having tweaked his forearm doing a stupid pinkie mono move on an E1 5c warm-up that he had to escape off due to lichen anyway.
Grips need to be got.
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Halcyon Days huh man.....
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Thence throwing the guidebook down the hill (with some justification, whoever wrong "gear doesn't inspire confidence" needs to be banned from writing anything about climbing ever again), and then forgetting it (free copy if anyone goes back), and sulking for the whole evening
Plus ca change..
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Yeah being emotionally involved in climbing, and sometimes having negative emotions when it / I goes wrong, and not being particularly proud of that fact either.....is still the case.
That might not be the most interesting (I use that word very loosely) aspect of me writing about it tho.
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Dan.....thanks for coming out tho. Apart from my performance, it's been great, the exploration and chat is appreciated.
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Of course Matt! A real pleasure to get out. Good psyche, good fun and intense emotions at times, it truly is halcyon days 👊
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Forgive me for I have sinned, I held gritstone during several spots of rain on Sunday afternoon. I have disrespected the rock!
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/05/06/ufck-united-flow-based-climbing-kranks/
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I liked this one a lot.
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Sometimes what you say is interesting Dan.
This wasnt.
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Thanks Will, I’m just getting a feel for UFCK’s target audience Tomtom, how about an article on arse scraping lowballs or how to GET your first 7a+ The means tested guide for Achieving your LimiTs. Maybe Barrows could write a seminal essay?
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I think I’m leaning on the TT side of this, obv you can write what you want no bother, but I think people maybe engage more with the self effacing style of parody over the taking the piss out of people just trying to do something fun in a mostly harmless manner. Not that we are all above parody by any means, but yeah maybe given some of the other stuff you have said the blunt ‘macroaggressions’ fall a little flat.
But each to their own, I’m sure some will get a kick, more power to you!
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I particularly like that this thread is basically just "spreading the fertiliser of this valuable commodity [the blog post] on the homogenous biomass of the community at large".
I for one welcome the addition of this Dan commodity to the climbing marketplace.
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Exactly, a satire of a parody of a parody. At no point is any of this lost on me, or is it?
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I think I’m leaning on the TT side of this, obv you can write what you want no bother, but I think people maybe engage more with the self effacing style of parody over the taking the piss out of people just trying to do something fun in a mostly harmless manner. Not that we are all above parody by any means, but yeah maybe given some of the other stuff you have said the blunt ‘macroaggressions’ fall a little flat.
But each to their own, I’m sure some will get a kick, more power to you!
All fair points Monk, I’ll keep the vitriol and piss taking down to a subliminal state next issue. Like the cinema experiment in fight club.
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I certainly don’t want to be overly critical or limit your creativity (I’m sure I couldn’t).
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Couldn’t you just start a podcast, record a few episodes, get it out of your system...?
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Who do you think I should interview?
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I suspect you have enough to say on your own, without the assistance of a likely bemused interviewee [climbing equivalent of Chris Morris's discombobulating Blue Jam?].
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Who do you think I should interview?
Alain Robert
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The Human Fly?
I have zero interest in anyone of interest
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Klem Loskot and David Graham would be obvious selections... perhaps best interviewed at a decent pub with a big open-hearth fire and good ale, after having been made to climb in horrible conditions at a mossy, scrittly, and esoteric bouldering venue....
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Stop trying to subvert me Moose
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GpzFgoPDn0
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Another daY another bLog. On a literal rampage of failing to Onsight any routes this Year I haD a visit to King Ina’s classic - inaccessible. And celebrated an early repeat by Calibos from Clash of the Titans. A well known Barnsley figurehead
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/05/09/inaccessible-all-hail-king-ina/
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That's a fair bit higher than I got. Pumpy!
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Sorry, fake news. I’d already popped off when I blew the move to the break. The camera just missed it 😂. Had to redpoint it after.
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Lovely looking tree on top.
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I wished I'd known that, I might have tried a bit harder.
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Known about the tree?
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That wouldn't surprise me with JB :)
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Soooooo, the editing team here at UFCK base are canvassing opinion on the MateRial so far. BeinG as UkB proviDE the only readership Base this seemed a good place to start. What do people think. It appears to be in line with Will’s Global CliminG worlD view. Yet go straight over The heads of Tomtom and Many others. What would people like to see more of. PlaNned in the Next issue.
UFCK lifestyle- recipe’s on a budgeT with our editor in cheiFs all time favourite- ‘wah u wah?’ ‘Playt ‘O shit?’ Flapjack
And instantaneous enema Quinoa salaD
There Will be a serieS of NON interviewS with ToP BriTish SporT climBers, hagandas alternatives and StaFfordshire baseD Wisemen. We will literally transport U all Back to the Halcyon days of corporal and Capital Punishment, the Miners StriKe and Gadaffi at the height of his Powers
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Now then now then I’ve just received a text from Slarty Bart Fast, editor in chief at UFCK and his partner in crime the DuDNoiD that a new interview is due to be published. Under great duress from a Wicker Gimp basket in the DuDnoiDs power Cave the self-styled, self-proclaimed, self-righteous extremely strenG Lancashire Power House. JjjjjjjjjAckPaL
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Being hassled to share this, sorry guys, spider, Duma, t-stubb etc I know u don’t dig this stuFf
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/05/13/lancashirepowerhouse-aka-streng-as-fuc/
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I've no problem with anything you post on your own threads Dan
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Cheers Duma, that’s much appreciated. I’ve stopped all that silliness now and will be fully into Power Club posts and keeping it a positive vibe. 👍
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A strangely unpopular route and unfortunately one to go back for after blowing the onsight it was simply Unbearable PaiN
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/05/19/the-pain-the-pain/
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If you want a mixture between Free Solo and Hard Grit, well here you go. Chad Meetham on Feet Neat Left Hand Obverse Direct Variant Pitch 2, E6 6c, at Rivelin Quarries:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D6XadQU_Vc
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Somewhere hidden in a dingy dell, a little known gnome sits, in his own hell. Reciting poetry.
Tuesday Nights
Core, plank, rings and 1-4-7
Lycra leggings, she’s climbed V11
Sweat, throat, bad breath Social anxiety
‘I’ve got a boyfriend and he climbs 8B’
Out in gen-pop the MuscleFucks roam
Yoga party on the mat I call home
There’s that chap from the BMC
Please god I hope he talks to me
MuscleFuck walks past, nipples erect, chest bare
Hot under my T-shirt is matted body hair
Brushing a hold with a tear in my eye
Bald head, fat back I begin to cry
Turning to run and escape this hell
I stub my toe on a kettle bell
Red blobs overhead, laughing at me
Pitied by MuscleFuck and Mrs 8B
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.
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I have to say I enjoyed that immensely.
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Better than the stuff those Volgons write.
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Better than the stuff those Volgons write.
Oh freddled gruntbuggly,
Thy micturations are to me, (with big yawning)
As plurdled gabbleblotchits, in midsummer morning
On a lurgid bee,
That mordiously hath blurted out,
Its earted jurtles, grumbling
Into a rancid festering confectious organ squealer. [drowned out by moaning and screaming]
Now the jurpling slayjid agrocrustles,
Are slurping hagrilly up the axlegrurts,
And living glupules frart and stipulate,
Like jowling meated liverslime,
Groop, I implore thee, my foonting turlingdromes,
And hooptiously drangle me,
With crinkly bindlewurdles,mashurbitries.
Or else I shall rend thee in the gobberwarts with my blurglecruncheon,
See if I don't!
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Bet no girl doing 147 only climbs v11 though.. need to run the poetry through the lattice database next time to align the metrics ;)
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Nice poetry Dan.
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Being as it’s an old tick list thread and sand is the new grit, while Shropshire is the new Chew, and Barrows is on about lattice metrics, I dug up this....
The tick list
Extending from me
A limbless tree
Listed the things
I hope to be
Get with the program
For another day
Limit max goals
Flush life away
This is the peak?
Or maybe a trough
Periodised life
The soul is lost
Oh for a tick list
How I yearn for thee
Fuck you Lattice
At last I’m free
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CKRthBjhcYG/
Tick list survivor
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A collection of stuff, some old some new. All views are my own etc etc. Posted for a great guy who reminded me this is a climbing forum 💗
https://musclecoach1000.wixsite.com/omniconsumerproducts
https://musclecoach1000.wixsite.com/omniconsumerproducts/post/altered-states-of-consciousness-and-climbing-life-pt-1
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Scientists do science
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fxjNQZFrthw&feature=youtu.be
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How do I attach photos / Images etc here?
Thanks
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Need to upload to an image hosting site like imgur then get the .jpg link and use the little Mona Lisa symbol for the image brackets. Or if you already have them on your website you should be able to get the .jpg link from there.
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If you've had the 5G vaccine you just think really hard about putting the image here and it appears.
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Climbing Archetype Self Evaluation System
Since the dawn of ages when the Great Ape transmogrified and human consciousness was in its infancy the archetype existed to guide and mould. For the modern flow based climbing communiteer, archetypes such as the inbetweener, the rebel and the embittered perennial funny man serve as relics of a bygone age. Barely recognisable to the athletes of today, in their arena carved of foam, bolt, bloc and plastic. Sporting multicoloured flow charts allowing movement towards a ‘performance peak’. A new system needed to emerge, multifunctional, self directed, outward looking with everybody on the same page. Here ‘Nobby’ our director of training and qualified emergentics Miers Briggs ‘Finisher Maker’ has taken a break from working Tom’s Original to bring you a comprehensive guide to the contemporary community archetype from right out side the box. Straight from the anal’s of Jungian counterculture where do you place on this multi-tiered, forward thinking, intracranial and interchangeable analysis tool. Do we ‘need to have a conversation around that’ yes we fucking do.
Transcended
Manic / disorientated
Journeyman / pretender / ‘lone wolf’
Dogger / mutual masturbator / conformist
Grade grabber / neoliberal consumer
Lattice freak / flow peddler
Ego-defender / liar / narcissist
Sycophant ‘arse licker’ / deluded
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Are you a Jungian sociologue or a climber? Hemingway wrote that
There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
People can take their games terribly seriously if they want to; it's what the Olympics were created for- internationally licensed one-upmanship.
You can stick to your sport if you want to. Just live and let live (so long as you don't muff the runout of course).
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What did Ken say? Sport climbing, it isn’t sport and it isn’t climbing.
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;D ;D
You should do a T shirt run with What Would Ken Say? emblazoned on it.
(edit: say, not do)