UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Nan on December 30, 2013, 10:36:51 am
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Not really a new route but thought I'd clear up the rumours about this having a direct start and being climbed without side runners and did that yesterday which makes it much more logical rather than having runners halfway up desperation that you don't go anywhere near.. The start isn't too hard if you are a reach monster but the upper part is then only protected by a small cam which isn't 100% so hence the e7, if it was bomber it would be e6 for sure. Repeats will tell I guess.
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Good effort.
You could call it South Seas (http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-South-Seas).
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Or POWDeR? (Pacific Ocean Wall Direct Route)
Good going!
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Good effort.
You could call it South Seas (http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-South-Seas).
Amazing.
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It certainly has had a direct start for a long time. Vid of me doing it about in 2001 here...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pr7zfqyV-kM&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Good effort doing it with the side runners.
Can't remember exactly but I think I climbed constipation, placed the gear there, traversed across and placed the gear in desperation and downclimbed, then climbed direct with the baby bouncer in place.
Did you use the good hold on the right on desperation to shake out as per myself (is that where the small cam is?). Or did you straighten out that bit too.
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Oh my God, it's a giant flying chalk bag at 2.50!
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.......desperation that you don't go anywhere near..
Whereas in Sams vid its using lefthand holds of desperation for the right hand at one point. Clearly there's some ambiguity in line here.
If sams vid is the line then not having gear in desp would seem contrived, its hardly a siderunner.
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Didn't go out right to the holds on desperation, stayed direct went up like you did but at the first break placed a cam where you put your left hand then matched the right and straight up to the small "pancake" hold in the face with right hand. Its quite a long way to traverse right to the stuff on desperation and didn't feel that would be cricket, thought if you are climbing it with side runners then it probably makes more sense to as then you don't need to have them pre-placed and clipped.
Have a poor vid it misses off the very top but will post it when I can.
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Didn't Tetler do something along these lines ten years ago?
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Didn't Tetler do something along these lines ten years ago?
I've no idea, but given that both the 2002 and 2007 Stanage guides only suggest rumours of a direct start and that it may have been done without side runners then you can understand why people would think it hadn't been done.
The best thing about this route is the description in the 1989 guide which refers to "a potential mega-boner from the final hard moves"
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Does that beat a "potential desmond"?
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Maybe I should be clearer in my original post, I'm not claiming a first ascent just wanted to clear up the rumours about how this route has been climbed by changing them from rumours about it having been done with the direct start and without side runners into sure fact.
Makes much more sense to climb this route like this too.
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Good stuff. Likewise, I'm not trying to retroclaim-by-proxy here; I just remember Ben doing something similar, but I don't know exactly what.
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Pacific Ocean Wall Direct and Without Siderunners on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/83157610)
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Hmm, that's weird - pretty sure that's how I've always started Constipation. And looking at the '89 guide, which I would have been referring to, it's where it goes. But the new guide has the line right by the arête, which is much harder isn't it? Or am I missing something?
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Didn't go out right to the holds on desperation, stayed direct went up like you did but at the first break placed a cam where you put your left hand then matched the right and straight up to the small "pancake" hold in the face with right hand.
Ah right, nice one.
Its quite a long way to traverse right to the stuff on desperation and didn't feel that would be cricket, thought if you are climbing it with side runners then it probably makes more sense to as then you don't need to have them pre-placed and clipped.
Agree, there are a few moves right to that good handhold.
Hmm, that's weird - pretty sure that's how I've always started Constipation. And looking at the '89 guide, which I would have been referring to, it's where it goes. But the new guide has the line right by the arête, which is much harder isn't it? Or am I missing something?
Hmm - I seem to remember climbing the arete, using a small mono to prevent the barn door, and deffo not from the face, however, as you say, the 89 guide says 'gain from the face' I seem to remember a crappy cam at about head height, placed from the floor. Oh well, it was a looong time ago. Inspired to go up there again and have a look.
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Noticed that in the '89 guide guess a new start has evolved for constipation straight up the arete which is how I climbed it and know a fair few others who did the same. Kinna makes more sense to have one up the arete and then one up the wall now to me.
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I've done the start to constipation both ways in the past i thought about the same grade but the right hand way felt a bit more comfortable without a block under you. The video looked like POWall direct with out side runners to me, nice.
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I've managed to haul my fat butt up Constipation, and climbed up the arete using a toe-hook in the break and a way fruity pinch for the left hand - felt like proper sketchy arete moves. Tippex out JB ;)
Nan, that video shows the line nice and clear. Which is the E7 bit??
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The e7 bit is the same as the e5 bit just you are doing it above a suspect cam rather than having gear high in desperation.
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Ah right. Would it be suitable to stretch a couple of feet left and place the bomber post-crux cams in Constipation??
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I did something like this line (obviously can't be clear about exactly where I went and with a baby bouncer) a very long time ago and Dr Tom Starke either decked from the direct without side runners or did it around about 2003? I also think a couple of Nottingahm lads also did this, i.e. with a baby bouncer.
Still a good a classy line, I found it very hard for 6b, maybe easier for the taller chap?
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You couldn't reach the good cams you get on Constipation they are off route hence wanting to eliminate them, the ones out right are a long way off route and are placed pretty high (see the other vid and the back of the 89 guide for where they are) so they protect all the moves. If the cam I place holds then the lower part is safe but would be really nasty if you fell on that last move I make to the hold out of shot. Then its bomber gear and easy move to the top :)
A bit of reach probably helps but yeah still think top end 6b for sure
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I fell off almost the last move and nearly decked with the baby bouncer (any jokes about weight & rope stretch and I'll sit on you), without it, crater, no doubt. As I said, a classy line and well done for the ethical approach.