UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Bonjoy on June 01, 2011, 02:23:51 pm

Title: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: Bonjoy on June 01, 2011, 02:23:51 pm

Here’s a couple of new things I’ve added recently and one from Ned:

Black Rocks - The Eighth Fold - E6 6c - The roof and hanging rib left of Ladykiller Peak. Safe and bouldery (7a+ ish), soft E6. Small (ballnut 2 and RP 2) but good gear in the thin slot out right, placed from the starting jug on LP.

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2181/5786474412_69dbfabd06_z.jpg)
Ned on 2nd ascent. Not a great picture as I was belaying at the same time!



Black Rocks – Goodmotorfinger – E5 6c – A static lefthand start making an honest route out of Badmotorfinger. From the larger round pocket at the start of Liquid Abs move up and right to a very slopey ramp from which the mono on BMF can be reached. The landing is very awkward, but pads tied to cams on the right just about make it highballable at about 7a+. FA Ned Feehally

Gardom’s – Roofies – E5 6b - From the start of Sleeping Sickness traverse left on the hideously flares break into Mickey Finn, cross the roof as per MF and then continue leftward along lip/break to finish up the arete. Safe and pumpy, hard E5.

Title: Re: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: SA Chris on June 01, 2011, 02:26:08 pm

I think your flickr url is monkeyed.

Title: Re: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: Bonjoy on June 01, 2011, 02:45:56 pm

Weird, it works or me. Any chance someone who can navigate linking to a flickr pic could sort this for me??  :please:  Pic is here http://www.flickr.com/photos/53412648@N02/5786474412/#sizes/z/in/photostream/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/53412648@N02/5786474412/#sizes/z/in/photostream/)

Title: Re: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: Fiend on June 02, 2011, 10:37:46 am

Ballllllllllllll nuts!

Title: Re: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2011, 10:45:34 am

Quote from: Bonjoy on June 01, 2011, 02:45:56 pm

Weird, it works or me.

Works for me too, now. Did anyone change it or was it a problem on my side?

Looks desp.

Title: Re: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: Bonjoy on June 02, 2011, 10:57:23 am

It wasn't edited. Must have been a prob at your end.

Title: Re: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2011, 11:00:19 am

Most odd then. Same computer as I was on yesterday.

Soz.

Title: Re: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: Bonjoy on June 02, 2011, 11:03:13 am

The first version of the post had a broken link on it but I edited almost immediately (before you posted). You must have opened the thread very early and then had the duff version stuck in your cache.
What an exciting subject for my 7000th post!!

Title: Re: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2011, 11:15:56 am

Ah OK. And Felicitations!

Title: Re: [Three routes][Black Rocks and Gardoms][E5-E6]
Post by: Bonjoy on June 03, 2011, 10:31:15 am

A couple of pics on Roofies.

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3011/5793176776_092db60486_z.jpg)

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2252/5793176768_3d4a83508a_z.jpg)

After the roof it follows the obvious thin break left and turn the lip just before you reach the arete. Then crab left and finish up the arete.