UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: ldmell on March 17, 2010, 01:08:50 pm
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I'm trying to get some advice on a partial pulley rupture i suffered last night, in view of the fact that i'm going to Font on Saturday. Fortunately, its in my little finger so i think i can get away with taping and climbing open handed/ on pockets.
My plan was to leave the injury to recover until sunday then climb lightly on it for a few days, whislt taking various drugs and icing in the morning and evening.
Just wondered if anyone had suffered a similar experience and had any advice on the best way to go on climbing for a week without sustaining too much damage?
Would be grateful for any suggestions. Cheers.
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=search2 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=search2)
Search is your friend ;)
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I had a similar experience last December, did my A4 on ring finger 3 1/2 weeks before going to font.
I took 10 days off (no good for you!) andthen eased back in with lots of tape.
I still had to be careful with it in Font but had a great week tickinglots of easier stuff.
as it's your pinky and you've got no time to take off it might be worthwhile taping it up completely, i.e. covering all joints, so that the finger is effectively disabled.
Good luck, i hope it doesn't ruin your trip!
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=search2 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=search2)
Search is your friend ;)
As is this wiki article (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Pulley_Injuries_:_The_Science).
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Cheers for the replies.
Hoping with plenty of tape and a bit of restraint (easier said than done) it won't hamper the trip too much!
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I've got 2 pieces of advice.
The first is to give it appropriate ice/lewis reaction/nsai therapy and don't climb on it for a good 3 weeks.
If that doesn't appeal, try swapping the second part for a taping regime which does not allow the finger to flex sufficiently to stress the pulley, or just straight.
As it's your pinkie you'll probably permanently have the look of a homosexual English aristocrat holding an invisible china tea cup, pinkie outstretched. But you might be able to climb.
PS don't go round bas-cuvier after dark in that condition though. Just a thought
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I would say tape heavily, and basically don't be in denial about pain. Avoid anything that makes it hurt, and BE HONEST with yourself about it. Think what advice you'd give to somebody else. Even if the weather is mint, it's not worth setting yourself back or causing more damage for the sake of a few days climbing.
The forest is beautiful, do some blue circuits and explore.
And pray it rains!
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Was planning on taping the finger straight (and also avoiding bas cuvier after dark) but just wondering what the consensus is on treating it with ice before the inflammation has gone down? I know dave mac suggests waiting but given i've not got much time would it do any harm to start the ice treatment early? Cheers.
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As far as i'm aware, ice helps reduce inflammation, at least that's what it's meant to do. It's the I in RICE (or PRICE) after all
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There's some evidence for ice reducing inflammation/improving local blood flow, and if you do it correctly it won't harm.
I think (correct me if I'm wrong) but Dave's argument is that suppressing inflammation early slows healing. I'd argue that you are only reducing inflammation, and nowhere near stopping it so there shouldn't be an issue.
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I did a little finger pulley at shitley glen.took nearly 3 months to feel good again.just climb on it,with loads of support and rest when u back for how ever long it takes.it will be later than sooner
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There's some evidence for ice reducing inflammation/improving local blood flow, and if you do it correctly it won't harm.
I think (correct me if I'm wrong) but Dave's argument is that suppressing inflammation early slows healing. I'd argue that you are only reducing inflammation, and nowhere near stopping it so there shouldn't be an issue.
[Disclaimer: this poster has no medical training whatsoever]
I thought DMc's point was that NSAIDs would suppress prostaglandin production which is essential in initiating healing. So I'm guessing after 72 hours it doesn't matter and it'd be time to start bringing inflammation down. Ice is your friend - and mine. Our fridge is full of the stuff. Mrs mrjonathanr hates it dripping all over the veg, but that's just life.
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Point 1- we were talking about Ice and inflammation, not NSAIDs which have a direct Pg effect as you correctly state.
Point 2- How on earth do you keep ice in your fridge? Surely it constantly melts?
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pt 1 - agreed.
pt 2 - a sore point in our household. It's a balancing act between rock-solid milk or soggy veg although tupperware does help somewhat. It (a bag of ice) only lasts 24hrs though, enough to give 2 applications. No freezer/compartment you see, and with more colourful/bouncy/jingly things than Hamley's taking over the kitchen and living room I'll be damned if I can see where a freezer could fit.