1

diet, training and injuries / Re: One for the runners

« Last post by Duma on Today at 01:04:42 pm »

Absolutely serious. I'm shocked that you would need to ask. From this to Oscar Pretorius' blades is just a matter of degree. Re your comment about all the help you can get, would you be happy to chemically dope, or give everyone not on springs a 4% headstart?

Running was the simplest thing. It was never about the kit. Now it is. Times pre and post the vapourfly cannot be meaningfully compared.
Cycling, skiing and climbing have always been about the kit, to greater or lesser degree. (Though I would say rubber kneepads are a much better comparison than down turned shoes)(and note that aerobars are not permitted in road racing)

2

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 12:55:14 pm »

Shauna's ascent is amazing. Gav is obviously trolling.

Reluctant as I am to continue this sorry 'debate'.

Then, as should always be the case, you give it an E grade, consistent with how hard it would be to do other trad routes in an equivalent style.

That's not what anyone has ever done though, because it's not useful info. Generally people want to know two things - how hard is the boulder problem, and how hard is the scary bit. E4 7a for West Side gives you this. Upgrading it because 7a is dead hard is pointless, we already have that information. If you do the 7a bit, you then have to do an E4 bit to get the tick - it's 6a move at 4m, which is why it's the same grade as The Knock, which is a slightly easier move slightly higher, although in that case it's only 6a to get there. The same logic applies to the other examples, and is the reason why Verandah buttress is still HVD despite a greater tech/trad discrepancy than West side.

(At Slipstones they did get a bit carried away or confused admittedly, and as you go right along the crag the trad grades become superfluous. But it's an old guide now, and an isolated example.

Honestly beggars belief why people philosophise about how they think grades should work, and then go back to complain about how they are wrong, rather than just looking at the given grade and applying some common sense to why it might have been given.

3

bouldering / Re: Peakbouldering.info issues

« Last post by JamieG on Today at 12:12:01 pm »

Brilliant thanks.

4

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by 36chambers on Today at 12:03:24 pm »

Is this the hardest grit problem by a British woman?

at 8B+ you could argue it's the hardest grit problem done by anyone

Having a quick scan through the strong British females list, I don't think anyone has done 8A+ or 8B on grit yet. Does anyone know otherwise?

5

bouldering / Re: Peakbouldering.info issues

« Last post by 36chambers on Today at 11:51:32 am »

http://player.vimeo.com/video/1816665

found via right clicking on the page and selecting view page source (and then searching "vimeo")

(you can get to the original vimeo page by clicking "vimeo" at the bottom right of the player that I linked)

6

bouldering / Re: Peakbouldering.info issues

« Last post by JamieG on Today at 11:24:20 am »

I was looking at a problem on the archive of peakbouldering.info (https://web.archive.org/web/20170326095233/http://peakbouldering.info/videos/161) but can't seem to work out where the video link should go. I assumed it was hosted on youtube or vimeo etc, but can't seem to work out how to actually find the link. Does anyone with better tech skills know how you might do this?

Or were videos hosted directly on peakbouldering.info and are now gone along with the site?

Cheers Jamie

7

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by gme on Today at 10:57:11 am »

Not more impressive IMO.

Both amazing achievements, but to me Shauna's return to the top level on rock as a mother is more notable than anything anyone does on a board.

It was very much tongue in cheek.

Milk it is more impressive than anything on grit though.

8

diet, training and injuries / Re: One for the runners

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 10:53:55 am »

You serious? No different to downturned climbing shoes, carving skis or aerobars on a roadbike. I'm not getting any younger, need every help I can get.

9

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by fatneck on Today at 10:47:19 am »

Totally agree! I wonder whether Badger Cave is calling?

Is this the hardest grit problem by a British woman?

10

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Changing the BMC

« Last post by shark on Today at 10:42:18 am »

Thanks Dave,

I need to go through it all properly (not sure when though!) but in general the rebuttal document is high on assertion and low on fact.

To quote a former Directors reaction: “Some of that is fundamentally incorrect and some just inappropriate”.

My gut instinct is that the CEO £200k in kind figure is highly questionable as it contrasts so starkly with the £81k shared costs figure provided by the previous CEO and I strongly suspect doesn’t subtract the £100k? or so of grant income that the BMC gets for covering GBC’s admin costs.

There is also the notion that it is acceptable to bake in a contribution of £386kpa to GBClimbing before extras!  whose participants are perhaps 1% of the membership. Elite mountaineers or elite rock climbers get buttons.

Also what is the money being spent on? In general empire building rather than direct support to athletes to gain comp experience - surely a priority in performing well in comps.

There are also references to problems with grant funding. I had a conversation with the BMC’s governance contact at UKSport and specifically asked her what would be problematic about moving to a wholly owned subsid set up and the only thing she raised was that it would be a nuisance reassigning the contracts to the new body. So things like the compliance with the Code of Spirts Governance objection I’m taking with a pinch of salt unless the BMC can identify which parts of the code and why and back that up with testimony from UKS.

As for keeping it internal I’d like to be trusting but it leaves far too much scope for funny business due to lack of transparency.

That’s just an initial brain dump and as I said I need to go through it more systematically and pick a few brains.